You're welcome! I actually do listen to loud music, rock and roll, with headphones whenever I'm doing a long tedious job like sanding a dining table top etc. But concentrating on repairs it's classical in the background
I can't do any work in my home without music blasting! But when watching vids or TV shows about renos or work of the type you do, loud music and drums pounding(!) while the people are speaking, sometimes so loud I can hear what anyone is saying, drives me away instantly.
Thanks! I assume you mean the fact that there is none! You made me go back and watch a little to see if there was music, like maybe I forgot to turn the radio off or something
Tom What can I say? You continue to amaze me, not just with your consummate artistry and skills, but also with your wildlife photography...being a Brit I'm not familiar with those particular birds but love seeing them at close quarters...thank you, with huge respect always Dave
When using a piece of wood to clamp down across a glued joint or over a patch, I always use a piece of waxed paper in between. I'm glad to see you are generous with the glue.
Gosh that chair is hideous. Still your work is impeccable and enjoyable to watch. I just recently found your channel and have beeb binge watching at every opportunity. Cheers from Germany
A lot of skills with your "know-how" (not sure of my English but I mean "savoir-faire" in French). After a bad damage, you give a second life to this very nice chair with once again an another outstanding result . Congrats Tom and thank you very much for sharing all these tips.
Thank you for the video, I learn something from each one. Would you ever consider doing a video on your gap filling techniques? I’m interested in when you choose filler, two-part solid epoxy, liquid epoxy or wax and how you tone them. Thanks again!
Thanks! I use hide glue for period antiques. I made a video “What glue do I use?” I can’t provide the link but search “Tommy’s Tips What glue do I use?”
First off, I have been binge watching your videos from #1 and absolutely love them. I have learned a ton. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. One question, and this is just for curiosities sake...I noticed, when you use epoxy to join things, you will dye it to make it darker. However, I have noticed that you use yellow PVA glue, but you don't use the dark wood that Titebond makes on the darker wood pieces that you would use the yellow on. Is there a specific reason for that or just personal preference? Again, thanks for the awesome videos.
Thanks for watching! I add color to the epoxy when I'm gluing something where there are gaps or defects that will remain after the glue up. Coloring the epoxy results in not having to touch the spots up afterwards. I've never tried adding color to the wood glues but it's easier to clean that glue off
It still amazes me the manner in which you meticulously glue back the shattered bits and pieces of furniture trims and separated veneers to illustrate that not only can it be done, but with great "invisibility" and therefore should be endeavored. Thanks for showing us how its done! Where do you get you dye stains?
Hey Tom, you've helped me with a tip or two in the past, so I thought I'd pass something along from my own experience as a hobbyist and modeler. You use water when smoothing out your partly set epoxy putty but I have been using 90% rubbing alcohol for the same kind of thing and it seems to leave a smoother surface behind it. You might experiment with denatured alcohol (which I believe you mentioned that you have on hand already) for the same purpose. I think the alcohol will give you a better finish and not "clump" the way the water seems to do. I hope it works for you. Thanks for this new video; another "pretty good" result!
Thanks! That's a tray a friend of mine made for sorting parts, usually screws and bolts etc. He called it "the Parts Buddy" Mine's a smaller version, "the Parts Buddy Jr"
Always a good watch. Thank you. One question....you used PGA glue to put the chair back together as Appleseed to hide glue. Was there a reason? I'm getting interested in getting some hide glue and a pot. I like the look of the glue.
Looks pretty good ... you’re signature ending. Love it! Great job, as usual. How strong is it overall after the repair? I notice some of the dowel holes had split or a piece chipped out. Especially the one piece that flaked off leaving about half the dowel hole left.
Great work. Just a question: If the chair broke because it fell, wouldn't it be better to add some weight keeping it from falling again? The weight should be hidden somewhere under the seat.
One thing I've noticed that may help you out. When applying putty, etc whether it be seams or whatever, use tape to mask off adjacent areas to limit the cleanup or sanding
It all came together well,Tom. I have two questions if you wouldn't mind answering, please.I note you usually use hide glues on original antiques? Are you more willing to use PVA type modern glues on contemporary furniture? If so why? And, are the dye stains you use water soluble stains or spirit based? Thanks again and I enjoyed watching the process of repair. David
Hi David, you're welcome and thanks for watching! Yes, I always use hide glue on period pieces, as that is the industry standard. On other projects I always use Elmer's or TiteBond. The stains I use are spirit based - acetone. I've never had luck with water stains on antiques, or any refinishing jobs. They are best for new work
I'm amazed at how much glue you apply. I'm just used to newly built furniture I guess where glue can soak in then distort subsequent finishing. I'm speculating the antique finish prevents glue "soak in" long enough for you to wipe it off?
thank you! Very interesting. A question: you used white/yellow glue on dowels, which I get, but did you clean or scrape off glue first? Also, as it was a reproduction, what kind of glue so you think it was first put together with? In general Can you put hide glue on pva, or pva on hide glue? Or would you always scrape off original? Thanks from Northern England
You're welcome! I minimize the scraping. I feel all water based glues are some what compatible, and will re-activate the old glue. If there's too much old glue I will scrape it
@@johnsonrestoration Pretty soon I will run out of your videos. but I won't mind watching all of them again. Thank you for posting all of these and sharing your knowledge.
Question: how is it that the putty I use never seems to stain to match or at all? I'm wanting to learn more on repair and finishing techniques. Next question: Been wondering about the little sheath you have on above your right back pocket? I've seen you wear it in every video so far that I've watched. I'm guessing just a small fixed blade knife. What is it and have you done a video on it and any special meaning or use it has for you? Thanks!
Different puttys take stain differently. The epoxy putty takes dye stain, but not always! That's a utility knife, all purpose, the first knife made for me by my daughter. I try to show it in use when I can
Nice use of "nooks and crannies" a term from my neck of the woods, dating from the middle ages. Incidentally cranny is also our word for ones little finger. Not in common usage in the States...yet.
For clamping the pillar you could have used a hose clamp (as i recently learned from one of your newer videos) ;-) Little joke..... ...... great video like all of yours.
I wondered that too. The William & Mary style was popular 300 years ago, the chair is probably a 19th century Victorian reproduction, meaning even it is vintage now...and therefore probably predates PVA glue. Tom?
Titebond is a great product (very strong). I would have liked to see how you cleaned up the glue-up, putting the top of the chair back on. So many different surfaces. I would have made a total mess of this thing.
Hi Paul, I have tried that, by spraying dye stain over oil stain. It won't penetrate. I did disover that you can mix dye stain into oil stain to make the oil stain darker or redder or whatever you want
Can't help thinking that someone needs to invent a spring clamp with jaws that have a flat back so you can put a screw on the back of them. Then you get instant accuracy with additional pressure...just a thought
Completely invisible, marvellous repair. I do imagine that some irresponsible child was playing around and knocked the chair over, and the owner made them sit and watch your video: "See what you did? See? See?".
"Visiting" your workshop is a peaceful oasis of competency and sanity in these trying times. Thanks for letting us in.
You are welcome!
This project is a great reminder of 1) patience being a virtue and 2) one should not rush the detail work. Awesome job, Tom!
Very true! It takes a while to learn that sometimes the fastest way to get something done is to take your time!
Wow. The photography, especially close-ups, are magnificent. Thanks for the show.
You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it
Not only fascinating and educational, but your vids are very relaxing to watch.
Thanks!
Thank YOU for not assaulting us with blaring music and pounding drums while you work!:)
You're welcome! I actually do listen to loud music, rock and roll, with headphones whenever I'm doing a long tedious job like sanding a dining table top etc. But concentrating on repairs it's classical in the background
I can't do any work in my home without music blasting! But when watching vids or TV shows about renos or work of the type you do, loud music and drums pounding(!) while the people are speaking, sometimes so loud I can hear what anyone is saying, drives me away instantly.
Best background music ever. Congrats.
Thanks! I assume you mean the fact that there is none! You made me go back and watch a little to see if there was music, like maybe I forgot to turn the radio off or something
I always learn a lot from these, but I have to say the clamping solutions always amaze me.
Thanks!
Such a beautiful unique chair and your work is masterful as always!
Thank you very much!
What a beautiful chair, excellent repair as always
Thank you! Glad you like it!
Your work is just amazing! I have learned so much watching your videos.
Awesome! Thank you!
Tom
What can I say? You continue to amaze me, not just with your consummate artistry and skills, but also with your wildlife photography...being a Brit I'm not familiar with those particular birds but love seeing them at close quarters...thank you,
with huge respect always
Dave
Thanks Dave!
good to see you back...Frank Cambridge England
Thanks!
Another invisible repair! You are the master Tom!
Thanks!
When using a piece of wood to clamp down across a glued joint or over a patch, I always use a piece of waxed paper in between. I'm glad to see you are generous with the glue.
Thanks! I have my blocks covered with plastic packing tape
@@johnsonrestoration way cool. I couldn't tell. Nice idea! Thx.
Gosh that chair is hideous. Still your work is impeccable and enjoyable to watch. I just recently found your channel and have beeb binge watching at every opportunity.
Cheers from Germany
Thanks! And Hello to Germany!
A lot of skills with your "know-how" (not sure of my English but I mean "savoir-faire" in French). After a bad damage, you give a second life to this very nice chair with once again an another outstanding result . Congrats Tom and thank you very much for sharing all these tips.
You are welcome!
My day is always better with a Tom Johnson video. It feels as though that chair suffered not so much a fall as an assault.
Thanks! that's true, it actually was an assault, by a 5 year old
Great work as always Tom. Really enjoyed following along.
Cheers, John
Thanks!
As always great work Tom. I have learned so much watching you, this coming from a guy that has 40 years of doing in-home touch-up repairs :)
Thank you! In home touch ups is a whole trade in itself!
Your work . . . your talent . . . your videos are too cool . . . Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome!
Yes, please Tom, more videos...Always great watching you...cheers...rr
Thanks! I'm working on more!
Looks pretty good. Nice one Thomas...Thanks
You're welcome!
Nice video to find after a week away on business. Thanks for taking the time to make and post your work. Appreciated.
You're welcome!
Finally some good shots of your part separator. Think I’ll try my hand at making a couple. I think it looks pretty good. Thanks for the vids.
You're welcome! I can't take credit for the "Parts Buddy", my friend made it
Nice work. It does. Look pretty good
Jim
Thanks!
I’d like to thank you for your appreciation of chairs
You're welcome! I do like chairs!
another beautiful job great craftsmanship and dedication
Thanks!
Great job, great video - thanks, Tom.
you're welcome!
Thank you for the video, I learn something from each one. Would you ever consider doing a video on your gap filling techniques? I’m interested in when you choose filler, two-part solid epoxy, liquid epoxy or wax and how you tone them. Thanks again!
You're welcome! That's a good idea
I think it looks good Tom! Thanks for sharing it with us.😎👍JP
You're welcome!
😎
Enjoy watching your videos Tom,nice job.
Thanks!
Wonderful job as always!
Thanks!
Mr..Johnson please explain why you vary the types of glue for your glue-ups. I've been binge watching and I was expecting hot hide glue.
Thanks! I use hide glue for period antiques. I made a video “What glue do I use?” I can’t provide the link but search “Tommy’s Tips What glue do I use?”
Great work as usual Young Thomas!!
Thank you!
Nice job once again Tom. Have a Happy Easter. Rich
Thanks! you too
Yes, it does! More videos please!
I'm working on them!
Thank You!!
Great stuff thank you Thomas, interesting and educational as always.
You're welcome!
First off, I have been binge watching your videos from #1 and absolutely love them. I have learned a ton. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. One question, and this is just for curiosities sake...I noticed, when you use epoxy to join things, you will dye it to make it darker. However, I have noticed that you use yellow PVA glue, but you don't use the dark wood that Titebond makes on the darker wood pieces that you would use the yellow on. Is there a specific reason for that or just personal preference? Again, thanks for the awesome videos.
Thanks for watching! I add color to the epoxy when I'm gluing something where there are gaps or defects that will remain after the glue up. Coloring the epoxy results in not having to touch the spots up afterwards. I've never tried adding color to the wood glues but it's easier to clean that glue off
Thanks for another awesome video
You're welcome!
Happy Easter!
Thank you! you too
Your videos are so satisfying :D Very good job . All the best Tom :)
Thanks! To you too!
Curiosísima pieza, preciosa que fue a dar en manos maravillosas
Gracias!
Excellent as per usual!
Thanks!
It still amazes me the manner in which you meticulously glue back the shattered bits and pieces of furniture trims and separated veneers to illustrate that not only can it be done, but with great "invisibility" and therefore should be endeavored. Thanks for showing us how its done! Where do you get you dye stains?
You're welcome! I use Mohawk Ultra Stains
Excellent as always Tom:-)
Thanks!
Hey Tom, you've helped me with a tip or two in the past, so I thought I'd pass something along from my own experience as a hobbyist and modeler. You use water when smoothing out your partly set epoxy putty but I have been using 90% rubbing alcohol for the same kind of thing and it seems to leave a smoother surface behind it. You might experiment with denatured alcohol (which I believe you mentioned that you have on hand already) for the same purpose. I think the alcohol will give you a better finish and not "clump" the way the water seems to do. I hope it works for you. Thanks for this new video; another "pretty good" result!
Thanks! I'll try it but there's always the danger of the alcohol damaging the finish. Need to check that first
Great Job Tom !!
Thanks!
Amazing repair!
Thanks!
"I think it looks pretty good". Great skills do great repairs.
Thanks! 👍
at 1:20 you poured the pieces into a flat odd shaped old container .
Do you mind telling us how old it is, what kind of wood and its original purpose?
Thanks! That's a tray a friend of mine made for sorting parts, usually screws and bolts etc. He called it "the Parts Buddy" Mine's a smaller version, "the Parts Buddy Jr"
Lovely job again :-)
Thank you so much!😃
Super result!
Thanks!
Always a good watch. Thank you. One question....you used PGA glue to put the chair back together as Appleseed to hide glue. Was there a reason? I'm getting interested in getting some hide glue and a pot.
I like the look of the glue.
Sorry, saw your answer on a similar question. Thank you
You're welcome, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Looks pretty good ... you’re signature ending. Love it! Great job, as usual. How strong is it overall after the repair? I notice some of the dowel holes had split or a piece chipped out. Especially the one piece that flaked off leaving about half the dowel hole left.
It seems plenty strong! I didn't show it but I refilled those areas. They were weak anyway and didn't contribute (or detract from) the strength
Great work.
Just a question: If the chair broke because it fell, wouldn't it be better to add some weight keeping it from falling again?
The weight should be hidden somewhere under the seat.
It is top heavy. It sits against the wall but some one was horsing around and knocked it over. So the hope is that won't happen again
U r really skillful n amazing .if I would be kid I would be a part of ur team n learn all ur skills since ur skills based on a very vast experience.
Thanks!
Great work!
Thanks!
One thing I've noticed that may help you out. When applying putty, etc whether it be seams or whatever, use tape to mask off adjacent areas to limit the cleanup or sanding
Thanks! I do use tape for that occasionaly
Correct!
Great work
Thanks!
It all came together well,Tom. I have two questions if you wouldn't mind answering, please.I note you usually use hide glues on original antiques? Are you more willing to use PVA type modern glues on contemporary furniture? If so why? And, are the dye stains you use water soluble stains or spirit based?
Thanks again and I enjoyed watching the process of repair. David
Hi David, you're welcome and thanks for watching! Yes, I always use hide glue on period pieces, as that is the industry standard. On other projects I always use Elmer's or TiteBond. The stains I use are spirit based - acetone. I've never had luck with water stains on antiques, or any refinishing jobs. They are best for new work
Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration Thank you for your prompt and generous response.
I'm amazed at how much glue you apply. I'm just used to newly built furniture I guess where glue can soak in then distort subsequent finishing. I'm speculating the antique finish prevents glue "soak in" long enough for you to wipe it off?
thank you! Very interesting. A question: you used white/yellow glue on dowels, which I get, but did you clean or scrape off glue first? Also, as it was a reproduction, what kind of glue so you think it was first put together with? In general Can you put hide glue on pva, or pva on hide glue? Or would you always scrape off original? Thanks from Northern England
You're welcome! I minimize the scraping. I feel all water based glues are some what compatible, and will re-activate the old glue. If there's too much old glue I will scrape it
Best job master!
Thanks!
beautiful job.
Thanks!
@@johnsonrestoration Pretty soon I will run out of your videos. but I won't mind watching all of them again. Thank you for posting all of these and sharing your knowledge.
What an improvement gluing all those spindles will make too. Must have been pretty rickety before.
I didn't see it before but yes it has to help
Question: how is it that the putty I use never seems to stain to match or at all? I'm wanting to learn more on repair and finishing techniques.
Next question: Been wondering about the little sheath you have on above your right back pocket? I've seen you wear it in every video so far that I've watched. I'm guessing just a small fixed blade knife. What is it and have you done a video on it and any special meaning or use it has for you?
Thanks!
Different puttys take stain differently. The epoxy putty takes dye stain, but not always! That's a utility knife, all purpose, the first knife made for me by my daughter. I try to show it in use when I can
Your the man!
Thanks!
Nice use of "nooks and crannies" a term from my neck of the woods, dating from the middle ages. Incidentally cranny is also our word for ones little finger. Not in common usage in the States...yet.
Thanks! I never thought about the origin of that
It looks pretty good to me too, Tom.
Thanks!
For clamping the pillar you could have used a hose clamp (as i recently learned from one of your newer videos) ;-)
Little joke..... ...... great video like all of yours.
Thanks! Yeah, maybe I should watch my own videos!
Looks really good to me
Thanks!
I’m always impressed by the ingenious way you use your clamps. Tite bond in lieu of hide glue, hmmm, because it’s a reproduction and not vintage?
I wondered that too. The William & Mary style was popular 300 years ago, the chair is probably a 19th century Victorian reproduction, meaning even it is vintage now...and therefore probably predates PVA glue. Tom?
Thanks! Yes, I only use hide glue on antiques.
I thought that at first, but the chair is only 40 - 50 years old (I think)
Titebond is a great product (very strong).
I would have liked to see how you cleaned up the glue-up, putting the top of the chair back on.
So many different surfaces.
I would have made a total mess of this thing.
Thanks! The Tite Bond comes off with water, but it does put up a fight!
WOW! I thought you said 'you don't like to do puzzles'....you are great at it! ( I hate them too)
Thanks! Yeah, I know, it doesn't make sense
Never heard of dye stain...what brand do you recommend?
I use Mohawk Ultra Stains, Behlen's stains from Woodworkers Supply are the same
Sweet. Thank you sir!
Like repairing mahogany spaghetti-nice job Tom.
Thanks!
Can you apply dye stain on top of an oil stain?
Hi Paul, I have tried that, by spraying dye stain over oil stain. It won't penetrate. I did disover that you can mix dye stain into oil stain to make the oil stain darker or redder or whatever you want
Hey Thomas, looks like it'll last another 100 yrs. Great job !
Thanks!
Can't help thinking that someone needs to invent a spring clamp with jaws that have a flat back so you can put a screw on the back of them. Then you get instant accuracy with additional pressure...just a thought
That's a good idea, I'll have to work on that
What brand dye stain do you use?
I use Mohawk Ultra Stains. Behlen's is the same product. You can buy powders from Lockwood
What white glue use
Thanks! If it was white it was Elmers Glue All, if it was yellow it was Tite Bond
Pretty good.
Thanks!
Bravo Bravo Bravo Respekt ❤😍🤝
Hvala vam!
you work miracles.
Thank you!
Excellent 👍
Thanks!
Not antique but truly over the top elegant, like Audrey Hepburn as a piece of furniture.
Thanks! I like that analogy
GOD is very definitely in the details !! Methodical
Thanks!
I have been watching your video's for two days now, I think I am developing a problem.
We'll have to form a support group!
Why not save a bundle of time and use burn in shellac stick!
Never been a big fan of shellac stick burn ins, I guess I need more practice!
At 6:00 translation for millennials: "Hey Siri countdown 5 minutes". LOL great video Tom! Thank you and keep up the great content!
Thanks! But I would never let Siri into my house!
Completely invisible, marvellous repair. I do imagine that some irresponsible child was playing around and knocked the chair over, and the owner made them sit and watch your video: "See what you did? See? See?".
Thanks! I hope so!
I'm not sure that guy was Tom. He was using yellow tape and Tom always uses Green. Imposter.
Caught me!
thomas hi 10+ bob in the uk
Thanks!
If I ever get an opportunity of visiting USA .I will meet u and kiss ur hands
Yes, please visit! But let's not kiss hands, ok?