Rock auto has the correct part I think for the left side, oddly, It's under the "wheel bearing" menu tree. search for a "B228" Ironically there are no wheel bearings in this folder. But the Right side is more accurately located in the "Axle Intermediate Shaft Bearing" folder. Alternatively, o'reilys appears the have both left and right parts in stock locally (for me) and correctly listed as front axle needle bearings. I'm going to be doing this job myself soon.
Theres nothing better than fixing your car yourself. Not only for the savings but the feeling of pride and accomplishment afterwards is well worth the effort.
Well 3 years pass by when u made that video very thankful u did. I came across it to see how to replace the seal n then I kept watching I didn’t know about that bearing ima replace it while Im here thank you again hopefully u keep uploading videos ✌🏾
Hello, I wanted to tell you how much your video helped me! I just completed the front diff side bearing and seal replacement on my 2011 Armada. I was only able to do it because of your video. Thank you so much! It really made a difference. Took me about 6 hours. I did this job because I found oil was leaking around the stub shaft. When I inspected the whole thing after jacking it up and removing the wheel, I could move the stub shaft with my hand side to side. Like the bearing was worn out. BTW-The old bearing and the new bearing felt exactly the same when placed onto the stub shaft on the bench. Both felt loose to me. I wish you had shown exactly how to remove the stub shaft and then how to reinstall the stub shaft. I wasn't sure how hard to pry or push or tap on it. I did watch again and again and finally heard you say you had used the crow bar to remove it. Then I saw the crow bar in the background. I went back and tried with the same crow bar and got it to pop out. Also, I bought a tool like one I saw on the ground in your video to pull the seal. It worked perfectly. I had gathered loaner tools from Orielly's. Only problem was they didn't have the internal bearing puller (#67033) that fit onto the slide hammer. When I got to the bearing removal step, I found a small 3-jaw puller from a Harbor Freight set fit into the bearing and actually grabbed on the inner edge. However, with the puller in place there was no way to fit a piece in to allow for the puller to push against it. I eventually used a large (Harbor Freight 24") tire iron/crow bar to slightly pry on the "pusher part" of the puller. Very little pressure and the bearing moved. Mind you, I was doing this with one hand holding the puller in place since it didn't lock into position, but instead was barely holding on if I pulled on it to apply pressure to the 3 hooks. Then wiggle the tire iron into the middle of the puller and pry...just a little, since I was prying against the diff case itself. The bearing came out with 2 soft pry's or pulls. I swear if I could have gotten a good grip and some leverage it would have pulled out by hand! I wrote all this detail to help others, since I didn't make a video of any of it. While putting it all back together I was in a hurry to beat the coming rain. So, I didn't inspect the stub shaft after the install. I still need to go back and remove the tire and see if there is any side to side movement. I did a test drive and heard nothing but a smooth quiet ride. I believe before the job I could hear a clunk sound as I slowed for a turn or traffic light and the car downshifted. Not 100% this was the cause, but it seemed to be gone, at least on my short test drive. The real test will be if the leak is fixed. One other thing I didn't ever do before is to change the oil in the diff. Any video of doing that job would be helpful. Just to see how others do it and what tools they use, that's a really big help to me. Thanks again. Great video!
Hello. I just wanted to thank you for making this video.. I just found the problem today and I was about to buy a new front axle, but you video made my day lol
I can relate to enjoying the most challenging of repairs. I hated the stress when I only had 1 solid vehicle that needed repair but eventually acquiring a fleet has offloaded the stress and it is a great outlet. I rebuild the front diff on a 2006 dodge ram 1500 a couple of summers ago because the inner diff bearings were trashed as well as the outer. I was looking for a video on a leaking seal and now will see if it's attributed to the stub shaft bearings. The car handles horribly when going highway speeds over small uneven surfaces on the road that aren't noticed at slower speeds. Great video and kudos to you for learning as you go and being willing to walk us through your thought process.
Definitely use the part number given by Visionary Trailblazin, I went to Nissan to get the part and the parts diagram links to the inner shaft bearing with a race, not the outer needle bearing. The parts man told me the needle bearing referenced in the video won't fit my VIN. So, once again, thank you for this video!
It took me a while to track down the correct part/part number because sadly many dealer parts department personnel can only go by what their computer tells them; they're not mechanics.aa
Fantastic video and great explanation of how it all goes. Looking at the diagram I was thinking I would have to remove the large nut where the bearing sits, glad I don't have to.
Any shaking during braking? Mine was bad I ignored it and now it's terrible when braking more than 30% . Rest of the suspension in front is replaced so my final guess is this bearing here...
I've got it all pulled apart except for the bearing, which feels like it's rotating smoothly, no wobble that I can tell. This far in I'm replacing the bearing regardless but can you tell if this bearing is bad by feel only? And, how the heck am I going to get the shock back in? That is going to take some leverage and a second set of hands no?
No, it will not take a second set of hands as I did it all myself in the parking lot of a self storage lot. Take your time, you'll get it. My bearing was also rotating smoothly but had the slightest amount of "play" in it.
I'm at the shock stage and I can't figure out how to get this thing back in. It's sprung so heavy and the space is so tight. Do I put the top of the shock in place and then the bottom? I'm amazed you all have been able to do this without a shock compression tool. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. @@97TRAKIN
I'm about to work on my 08 infiniti qx56 today and doing exact same work, can you tell me plz how hard or easy it was to remove and reinstall the bearing itself?
Hey appreciate this video very much, I have the same problem on my 2010 Nissan armada I’m just wondering if I have to replace the differential oil how do I refill it? I don’t see a plug anywhere. If You could answer that for me I would appreciate it.
Thank you for this video. Any pointers for the passenger side? I am in the middle of throwing everything back together and just dropping the whole things and just doing both sides. The passenger side come out much different and is too long to approach it this way. Thank you again and for any help!
After putting the bearing and seal in place, the axle slipped in with a solid blow from a hammer. You should not have to "hammer" on it. If it's properly aligned, a solid blow should seat it.
@@97TRAKIN and the bearing comes out and goes in under pressure? or did you use some kind of tool, sorry for the inconvenience, but I have to change the bearing where the wheel goes
@@97TRAKIN Another question, I already removed the seal, and after the seal a small cap appears with a large size nut, the question is; Is that piece removed or only the bearing comes out, I hope you can answer me quickly and sorry for the inconvenience
Does the restall position of the stub shaft matter? I marked the stub shaft to the CV drive shaft but I'm sure I reinstalled the stub shaft in a different spline position than it came out in. Job is done and now when I back up and have the steering wheel turned all the way to stop, which I do every time we go boating, there is a clicking sound coming from what sounds like the front end. I know CV joints can do this but the boots in good shape and the vehicle did not make this sound before I did this job. Any ideas?
I had visitation, but it was from the front driver shaft needing a new U-joint. The sub shaft symptom was a clunking nose when hitting bumps at slow speeds.
Koyo is the only bearing made for this front is what my bearing shop told me the part number is J-228 the rock auto bearing are to big for my armada.. it was 5 bucks and one week wait for my local abc bearing… I paid 15 extra to have it ups’d quicker.. so if you plan to do think job the seal is right and the bearing is a koyo J-228 can be ordered from Amazon- I’d call the bearing shops first.
Good day. I thought I explained that I had to use a slide hammer to get it out and then used a hammer to drive the new one in. If I didn't, my apologies it's been so long since I did this video I don't remember lol. But short answer: yes, the bearing fits snuggly in its location.
@@97TRAKIN Thank you very much for your time, you can remove the bearing. , tomorrow I get the bearing and the seal, thanks and greetings from dodge city kansas
Just FYI: There is supposed to be some play, but not excessive play. Even brand new Armadas, Titans, and QX80s have a little play in the front axle shafts.
@@97TRAKIN you know, I have exactly the same problem with my ARMADA , especially the noise it makes, it seems that something is breaking in the diff, everything looks good but the stub shaft is wobbling a lot, I hope to repair it by myself, Anyway, thank you. for making this video, because it is very helpful
@Tinker Tank I've been getting vibration on the drivers side floor between 40-75MPH I checked all the U-Joints and Tie Rod finally checked the Axel Shaft on noticed the Drivers side has twice the play over the passenger side. I was thinking I needed to drop the Diff and have the bearings replaced by a shop, glad I found your video can't wait to tackle it over the weekend! Thanks, KP
More so on the drivers side? I've done struts and shocks all the way around and new wheel bearings up front on both sides all bushings and links in the front. Even pads and rotors. I have not done tire balance and rotation so that's next before I go with your video.
Just a regular CV shaft snap ring. You want to see that ring come out in place on the tip of the axle shaft. A slide hammer makes easy work of pulling the shaft out.
No I did not. I've changed MANY half shafts on all sorts of vehicles. I've never replaced a C-clip unless the shaft was popping out on its own repeatedly, or the C-clip was broken.
@@97TRAKIN First I would to thank you for this video, it was so helpful to me replacing the seal. When I unbolted the CV axle from the back of the stub shaft, and moved it to the side, the stub shaft almost literally fell out of the diff it was so loose. After freezing a frame showing how your c clip was above the surface of the splines on the stub shaft and mine wasn't, I decided to replace it which BTW was a real bitch to R&R. Looking into the diff I could see exactly where that clip was meant to seat to prevent horizontal travel of the stub shaft. Again Sir, you are DA MAN.
Check the front drive shaft's universal joints. If your CV joint boots are not torn, then odds are low that the CV joints are worn out. Check the stub shaft bearing by grabbing the stubshaft and trying to move it up and down. There should be very little movement and no fluid should be leaking at all.
Thank you so much! Im tearing down this weekend. I do have a leaking seal on the stub shaft housing which is leaking dif fluid, so I will have to remove it all to get it. I also removed the front drive shaft to eliminate the possibility if a bad U joint. Thanks!
Yes the problem is fixed and so far I've not had any issues at all with it. Drove to Florida, Pennsylvania, and points in between with no worries. My wife commutes in it every other week (60+miles).
Thirsty Hiker I am finally back. Here are the specs directly out of the book for 2005-2010 Armadas and 2004-2009 Titans. "Front (4WD models) Driveaxle flange bolts 54 ft-lbs / 74 Nm"...
The big plastic cap with the hex shape that houses the bearing in its center? No you do not. Just use a slide hammer or some other style of bearing puller and it pops right out. Prior to removal take note of how flush the bearing fits in. When installing the new bearing match it to how the old one sat. Good luck.
RockAuto does not seem to have a different bearing for the left vs right side. Also, did you just pry the stub shaft out, or did you have to relieve the clip somehow first?
I lined up the axle and used a nice heavy sledgehammer to knock it in. You shouldn't have to "hammer" it ....if you use a heavy hammer. One solid blow should drive it home.
So my experience with my 2008 Titan I bought the new seal and had to get a new c clip since my original one was expanded to much still intact in I ended up reinstalling the stub shaft with a 1x1 fence post and a 8 pound sledge hammer put the 1x1 in the center and hit it till I heard a click from the c clip moved it little to no movement in the flange and rotated it to check for good rotation so finally after a week and a half of looking for a solution I'm able to drive my truck again make sure you can make the driveshaft before hitting it so you know that your lined up and mess up the differential and or the stub shaft
No sir. It was actually overfilled from the last time I changed out the diff fluids so the "little" fluid that came out was no big deal. Of course, be sure to check your levels after any diff work.
It's pressed into a plastic housing. A slide hammer with a bearing puller on the end easily pulls it out. Be sure that the lip of the puller is on the edge of the bearing and not in anyway on the plastic housing. Good luck.
On more thing the nut is a retainer doesn’t get removed you need to pull it from the nut..the is a ball retainer that hold the nut from being removed..
There was literally no video on this repair. I took the time to record this in an effort to help others. TH-cam is not my job nor does it pay me. As of my video, many others have made this repair and are quite happy with the results.
On my 99 expedition, the "stub shaft" has popped put about 2" and just sits there. How do I get it to pop back in? I thought I need to tear apart the diff and use a "c" clip to hold it in place? Am I wrong? Should I unbolt it from the axle and try to pop it back in and then bolt it back to the axle?
I don't know what the set up is on the Expedition. Some vehicles do have C-clips holding the stub shafts in. If it "popped out", then odds are it's a spring clip. If it is a spring clip though, you just pop it back in with a quick sharp blow. I make sure the shaft is aligned, place a block of wood against the flange and strike it with a hammer.
The stub shaft had excessive play. Note: There should be a little play; even brand new Armadas/Titans etc have some play. Excessive play will cause a knocking noise when you hit bumps and/or will cause vibration when driving. Really excessive play will even allow fluid to seep past the seal.
I can not get this stupid stub shaft out in the video it's the only part it doesn't show I'm even using a slide hammer and I can't get it, I'm afraid to break something.
It'll come out, you gotta put some force on it. That clip has to keep the axle shaft in when the vehicle is rolling, you don't want it to easily pop out.
@@97TRAKIN I appreciate the quick reply brother thank you!! I was almost discouraged after your comment you brought a little relief💪 I had to use a crowbar and a slide hammer at the same time! Have a great day my friend thank you very much
How did you install stub axle bearing on that? I ordered a part the one with the bearing with more teeth but it's cageless all the needle bearings are falling out as a try to put in the stub axle.
I bought the one from rockauto and the bearings dont have anything to hold them in place its impossible to put the bearing in without them falling out. I suggest buying the nissan oem part to avoid any problems
Set it up making sure the tip is lined up with the side gear in the diff, you can feel when it's more or less centered. Once it's lined up, give it a good sharp blow with a small sledge or dead blow hammer. You can't "push" it in. It has to "snap" in by overcoming the snap ring's resistance.
@@97TRAKIN ok so is there supposed to be a small gap between the part with the big socket spot that the baring sits in and the smooth portion of the tube before the side gear or whatever? Im worried i might have pushed it back while trying to remove a basically welded on bearing. How far do you put the new bearing in? Or does it go on the shaft 1st?? Mine has the loose bearings that will fall out.
@@madisonhenninger2943 some may have a gap and some may not. It all depends and how the gears were set up. The plastic hex piece that the bearing sits in is threaded into the housing. You would've had to been REALLY beating on that thing to mess it up. Remember, that bearing and ask the axle forces are riding on that plastic.
That hex piece is fu@#?ng plastic? I used a torch on the bearing! Im sure i need a new snap clip. Please tell me how to get one! Do you have a part # for it? Or know its circumference? The one i have has expanded i think and also had a flat ridge running around it.
Yes sir it is. I replaced my bearing because I had excessive play and the bearing was rough. There's a video of a Titan on TH-cam exhibiting the excessive play I'm talking about.
@@97TRAKIN Did it have some kind of play after installation. Mines has a bit of play enough to make me worry...going to put the wheels on and take her for a test run.
Slide hammer with bearing inner puller attachment to remove it. Make sure the teeth of the puller is only pulling on the bearing and not the plastic hex shaped bearing holder. To drive it in I think I used a socket that fit the outer race. Good luck.
My stub shaft ironically popped out after having my diff oil checked. I pryed it back in and hasn't leaked since. So is it ok or that's the way it locks in? Does a snap ring hold it in or something?
The right side stub-shaft snaps in just like most front wheel drive vehicle stub-shafts do. Just line it up and give it a solid blow with a dead blow hammer or a small sledge if that's all you have. There is absolutely no reason to open the diff housing. Good luck.
The part on rock auto does not match the oem it’s bigger than the original. So get the Nissan oem instead
Thank you for that info. Hopefully people watching this video will see and read your comment.
Im literally about to order part🙏🙏🙏
Do you have the Oem part number?
@@WisSota_Boy 38440-8S12A Nissan oem part #
Rock auto has the correct part I think for the left side, oddly, It's under the "wheel bearing" menu tree. search for a "B228" Ironically there are no wheel bearings in this folder. But the Right side is more accurately located in the "Axle Intermediate Shaft Bearing" folder.
Alternatively, o'reilys appears the have both left and right parts in stock locally (for me) and correctly listed as front axle needle bearings. I'm going to be doing this job myself soon.
Theres nothing better than fixing your car yourself. Not only for the savings but the feeling of pride and accomplishment afterwards is well worth the effort.
Well 3 years pass by when u made that video very thankful u did. I came across it to see how to replace the seal n then I kept watching I didn’t know about that bearing ima replace it while Im here thank you again hopefully u keep uploading videos ✌🏾
How did you remove the bearing inside n how did you put the new one inn ?
Hello, I wanted to tell you how much your video helped me! I just completed the front diff side bearing and seal replacement on my 2011 Armada. I was only able to do it because of your video. Thank you so much! It really made a difference. Took me about 6 hours. I did this job because I found oil was leaking around the stub shaft. When I inspected the whole thing after jacking it up and removing the wheel, I could move the stub shaft with my hand side to side. Like the bearing was worn out. BTW-The old bearing and the new bearing felt exactly the same when placed onto the stub shaft on the bench. Both felt loose to me.
I wish you had shown exactly how to remove the stub shaft and then how to reinstall the stub shaft. I wasn't sure how hard to pry or push or tap on it. I did watch again and again and finally heard you say you had used the crow bar to remove it. Then I saw the crow bar in the background. I went back and tried with the same crow bar and got it to pop out. Also, I bought a tool like one I saw on the ground in your video to pull the seal. It worked perfectly. I had gathered loaner tools from Orielly's. Only problem was they didn't have the internal bearing puller (#67033) that fit onto the slide hammer. When I got to the bearing removal step, I found a small 3-jaw puller from a Harbor Freight set fit into the bearing and actually grabbed on the inner edge. However, with the puller in place there was no way to fit a piece in to allow for the puller to push against it. I eventually used a large (Harbor Freight 24") tire iron/crow bar to slightly pry on the "pusher part" of the puller. Very little pressure and the bearing moved. Mind you, I was doing this with one hand holding the puller in place since it didn't lock into position, but instead was barely holding on if I pulled on it to apply pressure to the 3 hooks. Then wiggle the tire iron into the middle of the puller and pry...just a little, since I was prying against the diff case itself. The bearing came out with 2 soft pry's or pulls. I swear if I could have gotten a good grip and some leverage it would have pulled out by hand! I wrote all this detail to help others, since I didn't make a video of any of it.
While putting it all back together I was in a hurry to beat the coming rain. So, I didn't inspect the stub shaft after the install. I still need to go back and remove the tire and see if there is any side to side movement. I did a test drive and heard nothing but a smooth quiet ride. I believe before the job I could hear a clunk sound as I slowed for a turn or traffic light and the car downshifted. Not 100% this was the cause, but it seemed to be gone, at least on my short test drive. The real test will be if the leak is fixed.
One other thing I didn't ever do before is to change the oil in the diff. Any video of doing that job would be helpful. Just to see how others do it and what tools they use, that's a really big help to me. Thanks again. Great video!
Thank you sir, I'm glad I could've been of assistance.
Hello. I just wanted to thank you for making this video.. I just found the problem today and I was about to buy a new front axle, but you video made my day lol
Thank you for your great comment. Comments like yours make me want to keep making videos to help people out.
U just saved me a fortune I was going to replace the whole front differential. Thank you very much.
I'm glad that I could help. I hope it's a straight forward repair for you.
@@97TRAKIN yeah likewise me too
@@97TRAKIN you the only video on the whole internet that even come close to showing how it’s did
@@97TRAKIN I think it’s three bearings and three seals on that front differential I think that will get all the play out
I can relate to enjoying the most challenging of repairs. I hated the stress when I only had 1 solid vehicle that needed repair but eventually acquiring a fleet has offloaded the stress and it is a great outlet.
I rebuild the front diff on a 2006 dodge ram 1500 a couple of summers ago because the inner diff bearings were trashed as well as the outer.
I was looking for a video on a leaking seal and now will see if it's attributed to the stub shaft bearings. The car handles horribly when going highway speeds over small uneven surfaces on the road that aren't noticed at slower speeds.
Great video and kudos to you for learning as you go and being willing to walk us through your thought process.
Definitely use the part number given by Visionary Trailblazin, I went to Nissan to get the part and the parts diagram links to the inner shaft bearing with a race, not the outer needle bearing. The parts man told me the needle bearing referenced in the video won't fit my VIN. So, once again, thank you for this video!
It took me a while to track down the correct part/part number because sadly many dealer parts department personnel can only go by what their computer tells them; they're not mechanics.aa
Fantastic video and great explanation of how it all goes. Looking at the diagram I was thinking I would have to remove the large nut where the bearing sits, glad I don't have to.
Thank you very much for your comment.
What did you use to remove the bearing?
Cuestion, before you replace those things you have a lot of vibration in the freeway up to 60
I did not. Check your front propeller shaft U-joints.
Any shaking during braking? Mine was bad I ignored it and now it's terrible when braking more than 30% . Rest of the suspension in front is replaced so my final guess is this bearing here...
I've got it all pulled apart except for the bearing, which feels like it's rotating smoothly, no wobble that I can tell. This far in I'm replacing the bearing regardless but can you tell if this bearing is bad by feel only? And, how the heck am I going to get the shock back in? That is going to take some leverage and a second set of hands no?
No, it will not take a second set of hands as I did it all myself in the parking lot of a self storage lot. Take your time, you'll get it.
My bearing was also rotating smoothly but had the slightest amount of "play" in it.
I'm at the shock stage and I can't figure out how to get this thing back in. It's sprung so heavy and the space is so tight. Do I put the top of the shock in place and then the bottom? I'm amazed you all have been able to do this without a shock compression tool. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
@@97TRAKIN
what is the part number for that bearing? seems no one list this needle bearing online.
nvm i found it. nissan part # is 38440-8S12A
What's the trick to getting the half stub back in doesn't want to cooperate
I had same question, but just pried it back in . 🤷🏿♂️ Hasn't leaked yet but I haven't used 4x4 since.. we'll see in time!
You didn’t show how to put the side flenge back in I need to know how to put it back is there a trick or does it just pop in
@@Maxmgm212. It just pops in like every other CV axle stub shaft, the same way it popped out.
I'm about to work on my 08 infiniti qx56 today and doing exact same work, can you tell me plz how hard or easy it was to remove and reinstall the bearing itself?
It was not hard at all to do the job, with a bearing puller.
Hey appreciate this video very much, I have the same problem on my 2010 Nissan armada I’m just wondering if I have to replace the differential oil how do I refill it? I don’t see a plug anywhere. If You could answer that for me I would appreciate it.
There's a plug to drain and a plug to fill. Fill it until the diff fluid just starts to over flow out of the fill hole.
VI Tinker Tank Ok thanks
Good morning, could someone tell me if to remove the piece, you have to loosen the plastic nut to remove the bearing.
No you don't. Slide hammer with inner bearing puller attachment and it'll pop out. It is not in there tight at all.
Thank you very much, you relieved my tremendous headache, thank you
Anyone know the part number for the passenger side bearing??? I believe it’s different from the left
Thank you for this video. Any pointers for the passenger side? I am in the middle of throwing everything back together and just dropping the whole things and just doing both sides. The passenger side come out much different and is too long to approach it this way. Thank you again and for any help!
I'm about to tackle this job and it looks to me like the job can be done from below with the front of the vehicle jacked up high. Thoughts?
I did it on a jack stand.
Great vid Can you put a lino in the description for the part. Thanks
God bless you for this video!!!
Hello after putting the bearing and the sign, the arrow enters without any problem?
After putting the bearing and seal in place, the axle slipped in with a solid blow from a hammer. You should not have to "hammer" on it. If it's properly aligned, a solid blow should seat it.
@@97TRAKIN and the bearing comes out and goes in under pressure? or did you use some kind of tool, sorry for the inconvenience, but I have to change the bearing where the wheel goes
@@97TRAKIN Another question, I already removed the seal, and after the seal a small cap appears with a large size nut, the question is; Is that piece removed or only the bearing comes out, I hope you can answer me quickly and sorry for the inconvenience
How did you compress the shock to bolt the upper control arm back on
Did you have to remove the hex bearing cover. I’m stuck.
No. The bearing will easily pop out with an inner bearing puller.
Does the restall position of the stub shaft matter? I marked the stub shaft to the CV drive shaft but I'm sure I reinstalled the stub shaft in a different spline position than it came out in. Job is done and now when I back up and have the steering wheel turned all the way to stop, which I do every time we go boating, there is a clicking sound coming from what sounds like the front end. I know CV joints can do this but the boots in good shape and the vehicle did not make this sound before I did this job. Any ideas?
Hey bro did you have vibration under the driver floor pan from the play in that shaft?
I had visitation, but it was from the front driver shaft needing a new U-joint. The sub shaft symptom was a clunking nose when hitting bumps at slow speeds.
How did you get stub shaft pushed back in. ? No thing on TH-cam showing.
Get it lined up and give it a solid blow. It's the exact procedure for 90% of CV shafts out there. Good luck 👍.
Koyo is the only bearing made for this front is what my bearing shop told me the part number is J-228 the rock auto bearing are to big for my armada.. it was 5 bucks and one week wait for my local abc bearing… I paid 15 extra to have it ups’d quicker.. so if you plan to do think job the seal is right and the bearing is a koyo J-228 can be ordered from Amazon- I’d call the bearing shops first.
>I< did this a few years ago with thousands of miles on the repair. 2005 Nissan Armada SE. Thank you for your concern though 👍🏾.
does the bearing come out and go in under pressure? because you didn't show it in the video
Good day. I thought I explained that I had to use a slide hammer to get it out and then used a hammer to drive the new one in. If I didn't, my apologies it's been so long since I did this video I don't remember lol. But short answer: yes, the bearing fits snuggly in its location.
@@97TRAKIN Thank you very much for your time, you can remove the bearing. , tomorrow I get the bearing and the seal, thanks and greetings from dodge city kansas
hola señor,,, just a question, after replacing that bearing ,, your truck, runs well .. it took off all that play and the noise
Yes sir, all is well and most importantly quiet.
Just FYI: There is supposed to be some play, but not excessive play.
Even brand new Armadas, Titans, and QX80s have a little play in the front axle shafts.
@@97TRAKIN you know, I have exactly the same problem with my ARMADA , especially the noise it makes, it seems that something is breaking in the diff, everything looks good but the stub shaft is wobbling a lot, I hope to repair it by myself, Anyway, thank you. for making this video, because it is very helpful
@Tinker Tank I've been getting vibration on the drivers side floor between 40-75MPH I checked all the U-Joints and Tie Rod finally checked the Axel Shaft on noticed the Drivers side has twice the play over the passenger side. I was thinking I needed to drop the Diff and have the bearings replaced by a shop, glad I found your video can't wait to tackle it over the weekend! Thanks, KP
What where the symptoms,my has a hard knock while driving. It seems to want lock up...
An intermittent knocking noise/feel when going over bumps.
Di d you have alot of road noise before replacing this bearing?
An inconsistent humming noise and a cluck/knock when the suspension cycled.
More so on the drivers side? I've done struts and shocks all the way around and new wheel bearings up front on both sides all bushings and links in the front. Even pads and rotors. I have not done tire balance and rotation so that's next before I go with your video.
😂😂😂 sound jus like me bra thanks man
Is some clip holding the shaft? Also I have 3 inch leveling block Nissan Titan that can be my issues? I have leaking front the front axle
Just a regular CV shaft snap ring. You want to see that ring come out in place on the tip of the axle shaft. A slide hammer makes easy work of pulling the shaft out.
Did you replace the c clip on the end of the stub shaft?
No I did not. I've changed MANY half shafts on all sorts of vehicles. I've never replaced a C-clip unless the shaft was popping out on its own repeatedly, or the C-clip was broken.
@@97TRAKIN First I would to thank you for this video, it was so helpful to me replacing the seal. When I unbolted the CV axle from the back of the stub shaft, and moved it to the side, the stub shaft almost literally fell out of the diff it was so loose. After freezing a frame showing how your c clip was above the surface of the splines on the stub shaft and mine wasn't, I decided to replace it which BTW was a real bitch to R&R. Looking into the diff I could see exactly where that clip was meant to seat to prevent horizontal travel of the stub shaft. Again Sir, you are DA MAN.
I wish I could have seen how in the world you got that bearing out and how much pressure it took as I'm having a hell of a time
did you experience vibrations and loud noise at highway speeds? not sure if its my stub shaft or cv axle, thanks!
Check the front drive shaft's universal joints. If your CV joint boots are not torn, then odds are low that the CV joints are worn out. Check the stub shaft bearing by grabbing the stubshaft and trying to move it up and down. There should be very little movement and no fluid should be leaking at all.
My vibrations and noise was caused by a bad universal joint on the front drive shaft.
Thank you so much! Im tearing down this weekend. I do have a leaking seal on the stub shaft housing which is leaking dif fluid, so I will have to remove it all to get it. I also removed the front drive shaft to eliminate the possibility if a bad U joint. Thanks!
On the 2006 Titan Passenger side seal you have to drop the diff to change the seal. 😅
Work smart not hard ! I like that thanks for the video
Did this fix your problem? How is that aftermarket seal holding up?
Yes the problem is fixed and so far I've not had any issues at all with it. Drove to Florida, Pennsylvania, and points in between with no worries. My wife commutes in it every other week (60+miles).
@@97TRAKIN just so you know the seal part # 38342-8s110 and it's cheaper than the national seal
Can you share what you torqued the 6 bolts on the cv-axle to?
I can, but I'm out of the country at the moment sadly. I'll get them for you out of the book once I return.
Thirsty Hiker I am finally back. Here are the specs directly out of the book for 2005-2010 Armadas and 2004-2009 Titans.
"Front (4WD models) Driveaxle flange bolts 54 ft-lbs / 74 Nm"...
Do you have to loosen the bolt in the diff behind the seal? To remove the bearing?
The big plastic cap with the hex shape that houses the bearing in its center? No you do not. Just use a slide hammer or some other style of bearing puller and it pops right out. Prior to removal take note of how flush the bearing fits in. When installing the new bearing match it to how the old one sat. Good luck.
@@97TRAKIN how did you press the new bearing?
Is it the same part on both sides?
As of right now, I don't know.
RockAuto does not seem to have a different bearing for the left vs right side. Also, did you just pry the stub shaft out, or did you have to relieve the clip somehow first?
I used a slide hammer. You can also use a fork tool that you strike with a hammer. It looks like a big ball joint tool.
38440 -8s12A Works for left hand right?
This is for the left side only.
Also how did you install stub axle? Just hammer it home?
I lined up the axle and used a nice heavy sledgehammer to knock it in. You shouldn't have to "hammer" it ....if you use a heavy hammer. One solid blow should drive it home.
Do you have remove the adjusting nut in front of the bearing
If you mean the big plastic hex that the bearing rides in, no you do not.
Can you give the number of the Bearing?
I give the part number in the beginning of the video. Good luck.
So my experience with my 2008 Titan I bought the new seal and had to get a new c clip since my original one was expanded to much still intact in I ended up reinstalling the stub shaft with a 1x1 fence post and a 8 pound sledge hammer put the 1x1 in the center and hit it till I heard a click from the c clip moved it little to no movement in the flange and rotated it to check for good rotation so finally after a week and a half of looking for a solution I'm able to drive my truck again make sure you can make the driveshaft before hitting it so you know that your lined up and mess up the differential and or the stub shaft
Sir how do you remove the old bearing
Slide hammer with the hook attachment.
what did you use old bearing out/install new bearing?
Slide hammer with hook attachment. Hooked the inside edge of the bearing, changing position as I worked it out.
Did you have to replace the fluid that you lost in the differential
No sir. It was actually overfilled from the last time I changed out the diff fluids so the "little" fluid that came out was no big deal. Of course, be sure to check your levels after any diff work.
FYI, you have aftermarket swaybar bushings in the front. I would replace those with the OEM ones :) They are much better
They are the OEM style and work just as well. There is another style with the "cut" in another location and they suck.
You didn’t show how you removed the bearing as it is a press fit ?
Did you have to cut it out ?
It's pressed into a plastic housing. A slide hammer with a bearing puller on the end easily pulls it out. Be sure that the lip of the puller is on the edge of the bearing and not in anyway on the plastic housing. Good luck.
On more thing the nut is a retainer doesn’t get removed you need to pull it from the nut..the is a ball retainer that hold the nut from being removed..
Didn't you watch my video in its entirety? Thanks again for your concern.
There was literally no video on this repair. I took the time to record this in an effort to help others. TH-cam is not my job nor does it pay me. As of my video, many others have made this repair and are quite happy with the results.
On my 99 expedition, the "stub shaft" has popped put about 2" and just sits there. How do I get it to pop back in? I thought I need to tear apart the diff and use a "c" clip to hold it in place? Am I wrong? Should I unbolt it from the axle and try to pop it back in and then bolt it back to the axle?
I don't know what the set up is on the Expedition. Some vehicles do have C-clips holding the stub shafts in. If it "popped out", then odds are it's a spring clip.
If it is a spring clip though, you just pop it back in with a quick sharp blow. I make sure the shaft is aligned, place a block of wood against the flange and strike it with a hammer.
What were the symptoms of the vehicle that lead you to this?
The stub shaft had excessive play. Note: There should be a little play; even brand new Armadas/Titans etc have some play. Excessive play will cause a knocking noise when you hit bumps and/or will cause vibration when driving.
Really excessive play will even allow fluid to seep past the seal.
Can that cause your axel to snap
Not that I am aware of. However, a bad stub shaft bearing will cause accelerated wear on the differential components(gears etc).
What is the part # for the original stub shaft bearing?
nvm, got the numbers confused when you referenced the rock auto bearing
I change the seal with OEM and still leaking ... why ?
What is the condition of the bearing?
@@97TRAKIN look fine is not play
I can not get this stupid stub shaft out in the video it's the only part it doesn't show I'm even using a slide hammer and I can't get it, I'm afraid to break something.
It'll come out, you gotta put some force on it. That clip has to keep the axle shaft in when the vehicle is rolling, you don't want it to easily pop out.
@@97TRAKIN I appreciate the quick reply brother thank you!! I was almost discouraged after your comment you brought a little relief💪 I had to use a crowbar and a slide hammer at the same time! Have a great day my friend thank you very much
@@gooddaytothrive5870 To put it back in, you line it up in place then give it a solid blow in the center of the flange with a hammer.
How did you install stub axle bearing on that? I ordered a part the one with the bearing with more teeth but it's cageless all the needle bearings are falling out as a try to put in the stub axle.
I used a rubber mallet to drive in the new bearing. A metal hammer can potentially damage the bearing.
I bought the one from rockauto and the bearings dont have anything to hold them in place its impossible to put the bearing in without them falling out. I suggest buying the nissan oem part to avoid any problems
@@shubidubi88 Use thick axle grease to hold the needles in the race. But yes get the caged bearing for easy install.
I Can Not get this damn stub shaft to go back in??
Set it up making sure the tip is lined up with the side gear in the diff, you can feel when it's more or less centered. Once it's lined up, give it a good sharp blow with a small sledge or dead blow hammer.
You can't "push" it in. It has to "snap" in by overcoming the snap ring's resistance.
@@97TRAKIN ok so is there supposed to be a small gap between the part with the big socket spot that the baring sits in and the smooth portion of the tube before the side gear or whatever? Im worried i might have pushed it back while trying to remove a basically welded on bearing. How far do you put the new bearing in? Or does it go on the shaft 1st?? Mine has the loose bearings that will fall out.
And also thank you so much for the video
@@madisonhenninger2943 some may have a gap and some may not. It all depends and how the gears were set up. The plastic hex piece that the bearing sits in is threaded into the housing. You would've had to been REALLY beating on that thing to mess it up. Remember, that bearing and ask the axle forces are riding on that plastic.
That hex piece is fu@#?ng plastic? I used a torch on the bearing! Im sure i need a new snap clip. Please tell me how to get one! Do you have a part # for it? Or know its circumference? The one i have has expanded i think and also had a flat ridge running around it.
Hi...I just did my stub shaft and bearing...I notice I still had some play with the new stub shaft. Is that normal.
Yes sir it is. I replaced my bearing because I had excessive play and the bearing was rough. There's a video of a Titan on TH-cam exhibiting the excessive play I'm talking about.
@@97TRAKIN
Did it have some kind of play after installation. Mines has a bit of play enough to make me worry...going to put the wheels on and take her for a test run.
How did you pull the old bearing out and how did you put the new one in did it require a puller I'm getting ready to do this tomorrow
Slide hammer with bearing inner puller attachment to remove it. Make sure the teeth of the puller is only pulling on the bearing and not the plastic hex shaped bearing holder. To drive it in I think I used a socket that fit the outer race. Good luck.
My stub shaft ironically popped out after having my diff oil checked. I pryed it back in and hasn't leaked since. So is it ok or that's the way it locks in? Does a snap ring hold it in or something?
How did you put the retainer clip back on the stub shaft I’m pretty sure that can only be done by opening the diff housing and I wrong?
The right side stub-shaft snaps in just like most front wheel drive vehicle stub-shafts do. Just line it up and give it a solid blow with a dead blow hammer or a small sledge if that's all you have.
There is absolutely no reason to open the diff housing. Good luck.