*PSU Guidance Change: RTX 4000 series GPUs seem ok in terms of spikes, only need to add 100W "NVIDIA Tax" to 3080/3090 models.* What are your biggest challenges with finding the right PSU? What was the best PSU you ever had?
I'm super happy with my Corsair RM850x on a 5900X/3080, never had an issue with spikes, and super silent I've always bought Corsair PSU since 10 years, got a CV600 and a CX650, much more budget oriented, but both are still working!
I was just waiting for this video. I have a nice modular 680 Watt Super Flower PSU from Atlas with cool RGB effects. But its from 2008 and while it still runs like a charm, the cables, especially the power cable for the CPU is too short and can't be hidden behind the motherboard, which just looks ugly like these old IDE cables stuck between the CPU cooler and the VRMs. Also since it is so old i don't want to kill it by going from a GTX 950 to something that needs more power like a 6700XT or 3060 Ti.
Great informative video on PSU's.. I enjoy stalking my prey for the best price / discount to get the most out of my dollar.. For example... for the past 2 months I've been watching Newegg's 12600K cpu price go low as $45 off regular price of $279.99 ..but at the time it was at its greatest discount I was broke.. LOL (it came close to the price of their 12600 for $229.98)
As a motor controls electrician that’s been building anything from control panels to transmitter racks, power relay panels you name it, this man knows what he’s talking about and explains things in a tone that really makes you understand and wanna learn what he’s talking about. They really need to hire on someone like you as an OSHA trainer to encourage young people to learn all the basics like electronic current ect, cause with more young people with the interest to learn more about the field not only for your sake but the safety of others around you, helps make everyone’s job a lot less stressful LOL!!
That's sick! I'm studying for my ETC at my local Training school, want to do commercial work and maybe some residential. Industrial seems intimidating to me but I do enjoy learning about it.
First time PC builder here, I have NO idea what I'm doing or what to buy or what all the FRICKIN ABBREVIATIONS MEAN but your vidieos are helping me so so much, you are way too underrated.
It's a lot I know! Glad we can help. And if you haven't seen it yet check out our PC Parts Explained 2022 video featured on the channel page for a starting point
@@PCBuilderChannel sadly, most people like to use very general criteria to choose their PSU, as you mentioned. Wattage and 80 plus certification. However, I believe there should be a real certification that let you know how good the PSU is on an easy way. You can't expect every1 to be tech-savvy or technical enough. Hopefully, people find this amazing guide.
@@PCBuilderChannel Hey it's good to know that you explained well about the cable extensions because they told me never to mix cables from different psu and I was afraid that the extensions would make a short circuit or something hahaha
Jason, I just wanna tell you, that the information here saved me. I just bought a XPG 850w core reactor (which is a completely unknown brand here in Argentina) and I was between but that PSU or a 850w from Redragon (which is fairly known here, mainly for low prices and relatively medium or poor performances on all products) that was around 10 dollars lower. According to the psucultists, the XPG core reactor one is yellow meaning "Best units in the tier. High quality and performance proven by professional reviews". While all Redragon psu's are listed as E tier "avoid". I'm not the biggest tech guy or engineer, and knowing that psu's experts or enthusiasts do this kind of work, while also give the information for free is really cool! Today I'm gonna sleep NOT thinking if my Redragon psu is gonna explode or not (I'm exaggerating but it is a big relief) Thank you Jason for keeping us updated, today you saved me!
Adata o XPG solo hace el branding, el fabricante de ese modelo es CWT. Siempre hay que investigar el producto específico, sin importar la marca. En el caso de las fuentes red dragon, consisten en un modelo desactualizado y son el equivalente a usar una papa de fuente.
Also, be careful of those "Taliban approved" PSUs' by Gigabyte that tend to explode if you even LOOK at them the wrong way! They are probably still out there in high numbers! 😲😂😂 PS: Steve at Gamers Nexus did some good reviews on them!
I recently pulled the plug on a 12-year-old Corsair VX450; it was still running fine but it wasn't going to support a modern GPU. I went with an XPG Core Reactor 750w for $105 CAD. It's overkill for me today (unless I miraculously win a 3080) but I'm counting on it to last me the length of its 10-year warranty. Other PSUs I was considering were the Coolermaster V750 Gold V2, and the Corsair RM750x (2021).
Another AWESOME A tier PSU for those not living in the US with a great price to quality ratio is the XPG Core Reactor series. Fully modular with all Japanese components, it's been tested by third party companies and even youtubers and it's consistently one of the best picks for lower budgets for people like me in South America. I'm not a big fan of the looks, prefer the more sober looks of a Corsair PSU but my PC has a power supply shroud anyway so it doesn't even matter.
Hey Jason, Just wanted to let you know that I found this video super helpful! I was going to buy an ADX 750W PSU but was sceptical as the build quality wasn’t great even though it was 80+ Gold. After watching your video I decided to go with the Cougar GEX 750W 80+ Gold for my build and will be able to sleep peacefully without being afraid of my PC exploding!
I just bought my first custom prebuilt. I'm still very new to this and got a bronze C PSU only to see all this 80plus stuff and saw people basically saying I might as well put a bomb in my PC if I was going bronze. Felt a lil panicked but this helped clear things up. I love learning about this PC world, there is so many possibilities, but because of that I find people become die hard and fight for their system configuration and components, that I am reminded of the stupid Ps vs Xbox argument. It's unfortunate because it scares new consumers from making reasonable choices and instead blow money on something that is overkill and will never fully use.
Bronze doesnt blow up your system per se, but it can achieved more easily by using cheaper shorter lasting components. So it might blow much earlier or shows sign of weakening much faster than higher rated better quality units. When your only 2 year old PSU switches off, when your GPU shifts into high gear, then you know you bought crap. ;) And when you use a higher tier GPU, lets say an 4070, 4080 or so (im on a RTX 3080 Aorus Master 12GB with up to 420Watts under heavy load), you simply dont go bronze, if you have to pay your own bills and dont earn 6figures with the rising prices and all. Efficiency matters, especially if you use it much and your wallet isnt overflowing with money. Gold is standard nowadays for a reason and very affordable and you dont cheap out on a PSU as your entire rig depends on it, not only efficiency but also safety wise. Just to keep it in mind, when the need for a replacement or upgrade arises. :)
Efficiency is not directly related to quality, BUT most platinum and titanium PSU are of the highest quality (and price). Also, titanium certification considers also 10% efficiency, which is very important for light jobs (such as browsing, office etc).
looking into owning my first pc and building it myself and this series has absolutely guided me through, thank you for supplying so many options in the description it really helps me understand what about a specific model is good so if i wanted to pick something slightly more expensive for an upgrade i can do so with relative confidence not exactly sure which psu to pick just yet because im terrified of frying my system but ill probably come up with something
So glad we can help with your first build! One you identify the wattage you need using the method here its easy, you can expand the description to see links to the models we recommend, and/or check models you are looking at on the PSU Cultist list linked to the video (:
@@PCBuilderChannel i did! a lot of the models in the mid price range werent available in australia but after doing some research i think im going to go with the rmx 650x, its b-range on PSU cultists, only a little above 100 usd and the 650 W should be more than safe for my
Nice video, I was running a Ryzen 7 5800X + SSD+ Nvidia RTX 3080 OC with a 750W PSU, everything went well until I've decided to add an ASUS high speed WIFI to one of the PCI express, then I started noticing in the most demanding games how the Graphic Card on the most demanding scnenes decreases the power consuming almost 50% , I've changed the PSU to an 1000W and now everything went back to normal...
I ran R7 5800x and RTX 3080 with Seasonic focus gold 650. Everything was fine in idle and low demanding stuff, but in in very demanding game scenes (such as in CP 2077 or Witcher III) PC suddenly shut down after some time. So I bought EVGA Supernova G6 850W and everything is fine now. So don't underestimate with what power supply you run your PC.
I'm glad you brought up the golden sample loophole for certification. That along with a few companies that change parts without making a clear distinction between what are probably different models. Not as bad as the ssd market though.
Eh,even cheapest no name SSDs are good enough for most casual gamers. Better then any HDD. For serious gamers and content creators and those with important memories, more caution is required , I guess. But that's why places like this exist.
@@GameslordXY issue isn't if it's good enough, it's getting what you paid for. I do agree that even DRAM-less drives nowadays are good enough but I should know that the sdd is dram-less up front
I loved this video dude! Yes, I'm your twin PC guy. But I just want to say is that, explanation videos like this go a very long way with beginners and a greater reminder for experienced builders. I understood everything and just gained more knowledge on the topic because of you, thank you as always. ( 11:13 For those wondering, with most browsers, hold down the 'CTRL button with the letter F' on your keyboard to pull the search bar up and type in keywords that might exist on the current website you are using. )
Recommended PSU requirements are often overkill. Amd recommend 650w for a 6700xt, yet my pc with 100% cpu + gpu usage, monitor, speakers, desk lamp, phone chargers, all running, pulled 360w from the wall. And max power draw over a several week period of normal use was about 330w.
I recently built my current PC and bought a Enermax Revolution D.F. 850. I was happy to see that not only it was A-Tier on the Cultist list, but it was also highly rated by TH-camr content makers such as yourself. What I was surprised about with the PSU was the amount of lube needed to fit it in the case I purchased! Not all ATX cases are created equal when it comes to the PSU enclosure.
What about USED PSUs? Should we go for it if we find a good deal? I watched this video looking for the answer. I'd really appreciate it if you'd answer.
My personal favorite budget option these days is the corsair Cx650M While the cultist list is good enough for most, there are some issues with where some PSUs are classed. Although there's no drastic issues where it's stuff that'll kill your PC that is well rated on the list.
Gonna be that guy and point out that an electrical engineer usually does high voltage (+1kV) stuff, while an electronics engineer usually does fairly low voltage (usually in the realms of 0.1V to 20v after converting from mains voltage (120@60hz or 240@50hz))
The thing is, while power efficiency might not be significant to most people, higher-rated units usually achieve that, at least in part, by using better parts. Yes, better designs as well, but that counts, too. I stick with EVGA and SeaSonic for the most part, but I have also used Thermaltake. The only PSU I've ever had fail was a low-end Corsair. Superflower makes a lot of PSUs under license for other brands.
can you tell the model of the corsair psu that failed, i am interested to know. As i am planning to go with corsair RM series psu for my new build. thx
@@larry-uq9gy Sure. It was a 2014/15 model CX750. After about 10 months of use, it developed what appeared to be wide output fluctuations at 12V, which produced some fascinating game play oddities. Corsair replaced it under warranty. The replacement unit has been absolutely fine and was powering a test bench just a couple of days ago.
@@rangersmith4652 good to know thx. btw do you have any experience with Deepcool pq750m, it's also a tier a unit but its a bit cheaper than the corsair rm750. i am building a pc with r5 5600 non x and rx 6800 and 165hz 1080p monitor. sorry for the bother.😇
@@larry-uq9gy I've never used any Deepcool PSU, so no opinion at all. For anything other than basic home or business computing use, I almost always use EVGA Supernova or Seasonic Focus.
i have Zalman LX-600w for 6 years with not even 1 problem.. its running perfect! :)
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As a beginner in pc building, I can say that the psu has definetly been the hardest component to choose! I have trouble figuring out what wattage I need, what brands and series are good... all of this under the fear that if you pick a psu of bad quality your entire system might be destroyed, but at the same time trying not to break the bank... it's tough. But your video definetely helps, thanks a lot. Currently, I'm in between picking a cw650 for my rtx 2060 pc, or a tx650. Some people claim the former is of bad quality, others say it's fine, but everyone agrees the tx is better. However, it's also two times more expensive...
you dont really need to worry about a psu frying your pc or anything, more like having enough power so that your pc doesnt constantly shhutdown/restart during intense gaming or intense overclocking. only a small amount of psu actually catch on fire and theyre rare occurances from reputable manufacturers which you could find out before buying from reading comments or reviews on a psu you want to buy, otherwise all the unknown brand psu's are just not worth ever buying anyway
I love the Cosair HXi series. Have three in multiple builds. I also really like the fact that they're very easy to make custom cables for because they don't have a lot of splits and no pesky inline capacitors. But I'm curious if the new design has the same pinout as the older blue units.
@@GuidoDePalma Yep, I have three of those. Just bought the new HX1500i, which is not ATX3, but they have the Type-4 to 12VHPWR cable and I'm not concerned about running the HX1500i with any configuration regardless of that. However, they have a new PSU, the RM1000x Shift, that seems to be branded as ATX3 but does not have the 12VHPWR connector on the PSU. Which is fine because two 8-pins are rated for more power than the 12VHPWR and the ATX3 features can be implemented with the old connectors as well.
@@arandomcommenter412 Yep... an HX750i in my server, another HX750i on a test bench and an HX1000i in my primary system though I'm building a new one right now which will have an HX1500i, and I'll find somewhere for the 1000i to go.
EVGA 650GQ. Because it was 80+ gold, semi modular and also importantly had a 5 year warranty. I look for 80+ Bronze at least combined with 5 or more years warranty. Also I had been watching prices and it was on sale over 30% off.
I think the ToughPower TF1 is an underrated unit. It has a ridiculous amount of watts at 1550 but Hardware Busters actually rates the TF1 higher than the HX1500i and it is smaller a well.
AFAIK, only "ATX 3.0" PSU's will include support for the extra "feedback loop" wiring that support "extra power on demand" being scheduled for the "soon to be released" NVidia 4000 series GPU's. Older ATX 2.xx PSU's would still work if using adapter cables, but would forfeit the power boosting feature. ATX 3.0 PSU's have yet to be offered for retail sale, as of today: September 2, 2022.
The feedback loop is optional and is meant to tighten voltage regulation further. It makes zero difference in practice and has nothing to do with the power output of the PSU.
@@ExPsy Let's just wait for full reviews, after the NVidia 4000 series GPU's are out, and see whether any differences occur when comparing older ATX 2.xx PSU's with ATX 3.xx PSU's in actual gaming usage. Why would they bother making new PSU designs, if there was no tangible benefit? Update: Seasonic appears to now be offering ATX 3.0 PSU's; may depend on geographic location. Four models, starting at 1,000 Watts & in gold & platinum versions.
@@PCBuilderChannel Btw here's an idea for a future video, ATX 3.0 PSU's for those of us who don't to fiddle around with Nvidia power adapters! Would you by any chance have a few recommendations for a modern ATX 3.0 and PCIe 5.0 PSU? I've seen the Cultists tier list that you recommended and a few other lists but they all seem outdated without the latest ATX 3.0 units which I really want, it's been a bit of a nightmare to find a PSU for my magnum opus build with a 4090 and 13900K. I'm guessing I need like 1200W or 1350W for it, if I would like an option to upgrade to something like a 5090 in the future maybe.
Jason, this is another great video. But I just want tell you that as someome who lives here in the Philippines, or somebody from Australia and the UK, the best cheap psu that anyone can buy at those areas is the MSI MAG A-BN 650w. Its a non modular psu that sells here for 60 bucks/ Php 3000 and this can power up to a 6700xt/ 3070. Its not available in the US and I dunno why.
Aaaand it's going back to Amazon. A whopping 312mV ripple (difference between bottom and peak voltages) on the 12VHPWR cable whilst benchmarking on Shadow of the Tomb Raider in native 4K max settings. Going to try GAMEMAX 1300W PCIe 5.0 / ATX 3.0 80+ Platinum. Wonder who's the OEM building these PSUs for them. Really liked the fully modular port and cable selection, AURA compatible ARGB, Japanese caps and 10 year warranty for 210 bucks. Wish me luck!
For my 12900k and rtx 3090 both stock i use a 1200w Corsair ax 1200i from ages ago. This seems to just fit your calculations perfectly. I might swap to an rtx 4080 if i wanted to in the future so that psu should still be good. After this build i think i'll get a new psu in 3yrs to support these new modern connections and protections upcoming.
sir i really thankyou for all your content about guiding newbie to pc experience. your video really simple and much information thats easy to understand, thankyou so much!!
Of course, this video releases just two days after I bought my 650W Super Flower Legion GX Gold PRO 😅 Luckily, your 2021 video and that Tier List helped me quite a lot. I would have picked EVGA PCU most likely (something like GT or SuperNOVA G6) but unfortunately EVGA doesn't ship to cargo forwarder addresses while having best discounts on it's own PCU's (and Amazon\Newegg discounts are not always that good). While reading that tier list and related discussions I also figured that EVGA uses outsource companies to produce their PCU's (like FSP and SuperFlower in the past) so when I saw B-tier 650W SuperFlower for 52$ I jumped the gun and bought it. Also checked my local retail offers for under 100$ and they all were from E (Avoid) and F (Replace immediately) tier. Yikes!
You can say that the difference between bronze and gold is only 10%, but that makes the energy loss half. The ratings generally pay for themselves over the years even if it only reduces the gaming power bill by 5-10%.
@@cjmillsnun 92-85=7% efficiency 7/85=8.2% relative difference. I said between 5-10% savings, turns out it's between 7 and 8.2 depending on calculation. Bugger off with your faulty corrections.
Yesterday morning I was thinking to myself... Man I really wish Jason from PC Builder would make a comprehensive PSU video talking about the LTT psu list. I love this channel! lol Thanks Jason!!!
Yep, the tier list explains why my ryzen 7700x + 1070 Ti combo constantly trigger the overvolt protection on my EVGA N1 650W PSU (ranked F tier) whenever i put it under a sustained load- looks like it's time to get a new PSU
I just finished watching the video. Decided to check the PSU Cultist Tier List to find the current PSU of my 2 PC's. Both of them are in F Tier. I have to change it immediately. Huge thanks to this video for letting me know about it!
I bought a prebuild pc with a non-modular Game Factor 650w. It is a mexican brand, relatively cheap. My system kept hard freezing everyday (Having to hold down the power to shut it off), while gaming, or by waking up the pc, or by opening any app after leaving it idle. I changed it for an EVGA 750BQ which is a C tier PSU, but I failed to check indepedent reviews and found this PSU is very noisy. The 140mm fan is the loudest noise in my system... but at least my PC has no freezings anymore. So, a piece of advice; even when you check the PSU cultist list, check independent reviews and comments, they might tell you something you want to know.
I just bought one and then I find this video. I really do not know Jack about a computer. I looked on ebay and Amazon and did not find many of the psu you mentioned in this video. I was talking to a guy, and he told me the power supplies rated with the 80 would be for power spikes. Over the spring I think the computer got hit by lighting. I replaced the SSD and Ram. And it was working. Then tonight the fan in the power supply sounded like it was going bad. And it would stop working. A moment or two later it would spring to life. Swapped it out with the one that came with the computer, it fired up and seemed to be OK. I think it was the original psw. I had replaced it because the fan sounded like it was going bad. It was a 400 watt. The one that got hit by lighting, I had bought it about 2 years ago. Corsair CV550.
One should NEVER ignore the 80+ ratings, thats complete bogus, especially with raising energy prices and there IS a correlation between high efficiency ratings and build quality, atleast with the well known and good rated brands, especially with the high tier ratings, as they demand higher quality parts to achieve the platinum or titanium ratings. NO ONE should even consider buying an 80plus PSU below GOLD, as gold is...yeah the name already tells is, the GOLD STANDARD today, which is also very affordable because of beeing 'standard' nowadays. You simply DONT cheap out on a PSU and go below gold and good tested units, as your entire rig and the electricity bill depend on it and even those tiny differences in efficiency can make a huge dent in your wallet if ignored, ofc depending on the overall usage scenario and they will pay back the tiny premium over the cheaper versions, sometimes within months or 1 or 2 years, just by saving you some electricity money in the end.😇 If i even think putting an 80+white or bronze in and couple that with my 3080 Aorus Master 12Gb, which can draw up to 420Watts under high load.. *shudder* ...yeah nope not happening, my BeQuiet Straight Power 11 850W Platinum does the Job just as its meant to. 😊 Btw: F*ck Single Rail PSU's. 😝 Oh and sry, about your crappy 115Volts, thats just aweful, you guys seriously need some upgrades over there.😅
7:02 80 Plus Titanium wastes 3.2x less energy than 80 Plus Bronze. Maybe in US this wasted energy cost is negligible, but in EU it is currently not. For me 80 Plus Gold (or Platinum) is a perfect balance between PSU cost and wasted electricity cost.
Wow, the level of information here is above 9000, best PSU buying guide I've seen. I've bought a 750W Seasonic Focus GX for the pc I built for my nephew 2 years ago and his PC survived till today, despite frequent, almost daily power outages in the rural area he lives in. That was enough for me to go for my personal build with the same Focus GX PSU this spring, a 1000W one, hoping that I get to upgrade my 3060 ti to a better card when 40 series launch.
I'll probably catch hell for this, but the tech industry needs to pause a bit until it gets power consumption under control. We're wrecklessly consuming an exponentially increasing rate of electricity for less and less return on investment at the sake of gouging our resources. We also need to make strides with regard to DC power sources; the devices we're producing are outpacing our capacity to reasonably power them. Great video though. I was always a bit fuzzy on the difference between single- and multi-railed PSUs, and searches never really clarified things. I'd settled on the assumption that multi was more akin to server systems, Threadripper setups, etc. Thanks!
Amazing info, I was brainwashed into only buying 80 gold psu's and just recently bought a 3070ti and was using a 650w PSU and my PC is constantly just shutting down and I'm assuming it's drawing too much power. Time to upgrade and this video is very helpful.
This kinda conversation is important I remember when no one talked about it and I came Into building a PC totally blind on this and has issues with my pc..
So far owning Corsair PSUs, I haven't had an issue from them and outlasts their warrenty still going strong. (other then annoying mouse squeezing through a security hole in the case and chewing one of the power cable to the video card, also crapping on my 1070 FTW2 killing that, now using a 750Ti) anways I have a CX750M (currently using) and bought a RM850X (2021) Looking forward to finishing my next build still in progress..
I was told by some 850W as a minimum recommendation for my RTX3080 12GB(what can I say I didn't know about allegedly exclusives to RTX40xx exclusive RTX Remix. Ah well too late now)regardless of Nvidia recommendations of 750W and some even claiming 650W being sufficient. Yet other saying 1200W. My head was hurting literally because of so much contrary information. MSI RTX3080 GAMING Z TRIO to be more precise. A GPU that wastes more energy than even most 3090 cards for whatever reason. I have some theories,but never mind that. So I was killing myself slowly with what PSU to get. 1st I ordered Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750M. A day or 3 later,cancelled and ordered TX850M. As I had to for reasons postpone PC for a month or so,I had time to think things over. This time I decided to go with Corsair RM850 2021 non-X. Same Wattage as TX850M, but higher quality parts and stuff. The X model would make a mess in my already overstretched budget. But I intend to have that GPU for 7-10+ years, might add more power-hungry CPU eventually, possibly more RAM,storage etc. Not OC type,but you never know. So because of those spikes scary stories I cancelled RM850 2021, and purchased RM1000X 2021 . Made extreme mess in my budget and forced me to do less than ideal compromises in some areas,but as I said,CPUs can be upgraded more cheaply then GPUs. That pushed my budget bassicaly to the point of breaking(giving up) because NOT everyone buying 3080 & expensive PSU is rich. Or even in the middle class for that matter. I told to some people that 1200W is what would make me truly comfortable, but then I would need to...well they are expensive. 1000W should be sufficient. If not, well I am done with PCs for good if it kills my PC. A friend has EVGA FTW3 3090 for a year and 7 years old Corsair HX850x Platinum and had 0 problems so far . My final specs ended up like this: Ryzen 5 5500 MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX II 2x16 CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB PRO 3200CAS16 Samsung 980 500GB MSI RTX3080 GAMING Z TRIO 12GB Corsair RM1000x 2021 CoolerMaster MasterBox NR600 ARCTIC BioniX120 P12 PWM CF48 120MM Triple Pack. It comes with A-RGB Remote and A-RGB Hub that has built-in controler and spliter so that even boards like B450 Tomahawk can work with more than 4 case fans and with RGB fans . With 2 pre-instaled + 3 additional, that's 5 casefans. I dunno if my airflow solution would make Steve Nexus proud,but I wanted my shiny new GPU protected as much as I can afford and a little bit more. His videos about airflow and temperature importance are to blame for that. I wanted to get Arctic Freezer 34 eSports Duo for my CPU,but because I went to RM1000X, I will have to wait for a few months at least. Longer probably. It's quite cheap, but the Inflation makes life complicated.
I have an EVGA G2 750W. Superb unit. This was the first of the new series when EVGA decided to revamp their product lines to compete with Corsair 8 years ago and found SuperFlower to make these. Took the market by storm. If you're comfortable doing research, ignore the stats. Find a site that will tell you who makes the unit you're looking at. The dirty little secret is that the vast amount of brands do not make their products. Take a look at EVGA. They "make" a ton of different psu's and yet, there's a huge difference and different supplier for each. You want a SuperFlower unit? Only about 10 of all their units are. They also have Seasonic units, HEC, CWT and others. That BS is not that great even though it looks just like the G# series.
All my friends are saying that 850 psu is extremely overkill for a 3070 build but I think it's the most safe option here since most of 750 psus cost almost the same anyway (I used that cultists list, didn't search lower that A though). I don't know who's right here but I'm fine as long as I know for sure that the psu wouldn't let me down. I also said that I'd get a 1000 watt minimum when I'm upgrading to a 40 series and have the money and we disagreed hard on that.
I personally love my 700 watt Seasonic Titanium rated fanless psu. has lasted me a few years and just upgraded a bit ago to an rtx 3070ti and a 7700x i got for Christmas. has been very reliable.
Doing my research for my next build I'm so impressed that Jason even includes upcoming products at the time of the video (rtx 4000, RX 7000). Thanks for the help Jason 👍👍🤗🤗
I really hope I didn't fudge up when I recently bought a Corsair RM850x v3 to run my new pc... It's gonna power a R7 5800x3d, Gtx 1080ti (With upgrade possibility to a 3080ti or 3090 later), Corsair Vengeance RGB 32gb ram (4x8gb - 3200mhz), 2 x m.2 and some RGB shenanigans 👀 No plans to overclock anything aside to get the ram to run at the CPUs allowed max speed. Edit: BEAUTIFUL VOID KITTY 🖤🖤🖤
Thanks for the video, I just splurged 200 bucks on a Corsair RM1000x after having my PC shut off multiple times under high loads playing Path of Exile. I was completely lost as to where to start and even had the fun of buying the wrong PSU and realizing it after I plugged in every cable besides the GPU (which needed a 16 pin PCI-e). Don't be like me, guys, do your research first.
So.. I'm building a PC The estimate watts on PC Part Picker is 562W (x1.5 that gives me 843w) With i7-13700KF and RTX3060 MSI Ventus 3x... 850W PSU in A or B tier should be good right?
the 16 pin 12vhpwr psu's are now out, so buy one of those when you have a GPU with that connector. These connectors can help the gpu to manage stability and avoid crashing if it needs more than the psu can handle.
I grabbed EVGA Supernova 1200 P2 80+ Platinum, 1200W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI and Crossfire Ready 10 Year Warranty Power Supply 220-P2-1200-X1 159.99 on super sale
My Antec 1000w 80+ PSU HCP Platinum since 2013 is working with no issues. Old brand PSU should be considered DIY system build with a minimum of 750w and $100.
Bro, my computer is like this 1. Mobo high end series B660 atx msi tomhwark ddr4 wifi. 2. Ram 32GB = 4x8Gb. 3. 22 inch monitors. 4. CPU = i3+12100. 5. 1HDD 3.5 inch (7200rpm) (1TB). 6. 1SSD 2.5 inch (500Gb). 7. Keyboard + mouse of course. 8. Other devices are USb3.0+2.0 to use Android phone to turn into WiFi internet hotspot 9. 5x120mm fan 2x80mm fans 1x250mm fan for cpu cooler. 10. GPU rx6600xt 6-8 hours of use for TH-cam content + live streaming + editing. Outervision says Load wattage = 385watt. outer vision Recommend using 435 watts I added 100 watts, used 550 watts FSP+bronze. My question is, is it safe or not? In fact, I already bought a 550 watt PSU. Please answer, bro, I'm afraid why is it okay for my PC's health, I should want to buy a 650 watt one but my budget is limited. 🙏 My PSU is FSP 550watt 80+bronze
With PSUs, I have noticed that they persist across many generations, as their main purpose is to deliver power. For this reason, I have almost no budget limit when I am looking for a new PSU. I opt for a Titanium-rated PSU with a capacity of 1000W or higher, really the biggest beast of PSU i can physically fit inside my case. Why such high capacity? Well, I am sure you have witnessed how power-hungry components have become. This way, you will be future-proofed no matter how power-hungry components may get. The last PSU i had for 10 years and it was still working like a charm.
Multi-rail vs single rail does absolutely matter. The main reason of most of power supplies nowadays are single rail is because multi rail supplies have power imbalances issues, meaning one rail could be max out while the other one is at 10%. That absolutely impact durability and power efficiency. 80 plus certification also matters. More efficiency means less heat dissipation and less power consumption.
10/10 helpful. Will watch again. In my next build, I'd say about 80% of the parts will heavily informed by your research. Thanks for taking the time to share this. Other channels have great in depth content, but when theory turns into spending, here is where I go now.
whoa i just bought msi a850gf psu because it was the cheapest 850 watt available and who hasn't heard about msi, i didn't know it was A-tier PSU. all other youtubers are just promoting B or C tier power supplies as they get sponsored. Thanks for the information. i have 12700f with 3060ti and will ugrade to something powerful in the future.
Nobody is explaining whether or how the multi-rail circuit is divided among the PSU connectors. If some connectors are running on once circuit, and others on another circuit, then can you unintentionally overload one circuit while under-utilizing the other simply by not balancing the use of your available connectors? I see no indication of what rail each connector is tied to on the back of my Corsair HX850.
Well, since everyone says "do never skimp on the power supply..." - my method of buying one is quite easy: Buy a "prime Seasonic" PSU (buying from a manufacturer that values its reputation more than a few Króna)
Deepcool PX1000. A-tier. Friggin' swish. When they don't have data on a psu, they chuck it at the bottom, so keep that in mind if yours is listed as a stinker.
10% on 500W (total consumption, for example while gaming) with 4 hours daily gaming (or simlilar workload like video editing when not gaming etc.) = 50W * 4 * 365 = 73kw/h annual. Here in the Philippines current is about 23 US Cents per Kw/h while in Germany it is around 35+ US cents per kw/h. So here in the Phils I could save up to 17.52 USD annually. Given that my current power supply (Coolermaster 620W full modular) is already 13 years old (that's why I replace it now with the Seasonic GM-750 for like 95 USD, as my PSU starts making issues) - I can save 170 USD for 10 years of usage. Seasonic gives 7 years warranty for the GM750 and 10 years warranty for the GX750. So I would say it definitely worth the extra amount you pay for Gold or Platinum over Bronze or even white if you're a gamer or use it for other heavy workload. Not so much for office work. Since my wife plays as well, the savings are even much higher. Our PC runs a good 8 hours a day. So twice my assumed runtime above. So why should I cheap out here? Makes no sense. With couple hours daily gaming I have the price gap between bronze and gold back within 3-4 years.
*PSU Guidance Change: RTX 4000 series GPUs seem ok in terms of spikes, only need to add 100W "NVIDIA Tax" to 3080/3090 models.*
What are your biggest challenges with finding the right PSU? What was the best PSU you ever had?
I found a bitminer supershocker 2400w 120+ platinum for $19. Going to finally try my 3090s in sli.
I haven't have any issues finding a PSU. I got the EVGA Super Nova 850w Gold and my pc is running smooth.
I'm super happy with my Corsair RM850x on a 5900X/3080, never had an issue with spikes, and super silent
I've always bought Corsair PSU since 10 years, got a CV600 and a CX650, much more budget oriented, but both are still working!
I was just waiting for this video. I have a nice modular 680 Watt Super Flower PSU from Atlas with cool RGB effects. But its from 2008 and while it still runs like a charm, the cables, especially the power cable for the CPU is too short and can't be hidden behind the motherboard, which just looks ugly like these old IDE cables stuck between the CPU cooler and the VRMs. Also since it is so old i don't want to kill it by going from a GTX 950 to something that needs more power like a 6700XT or 3060 Ti.
Great informative video on PSU's.. I enjoy stalking my prey for the best price / discount to get the most out of my dollar.. For example... for the past 2 months I've been watching Newegg's 12600K cpu price go low as $45 off regular price of $279.99 ..but at the time it was at its greatest discount I was broke.. LOL (it came close to the price of their 12600 for $229.98)
As a motor controls electrician that’s been building anything from control panels to transmitter racks, power relay panels you name it, this man knows what he’s talking about and explains things in a tone that really makes you understand and wanna learn what he’s talking about. They really need to hire on someone like you as an OSHA trainer to encourage young people to learn all the basics like electronic current ect, cause with more young people with the interest to learn more about the field not only for your sake but the safety of others around you, helps make everyone’s job a lot less stressful LOL!!
Thank you!!
That's sick! I'm studying for my ETC at my local Training school, want to do commercial work and maybe some residential. Industrial seems intimidating to me but I do enjoy learning about it.
Yeah because let's trust the guy who calls it PC instead of "a" PC lmfao actual weirdo behavior
all you need to know is if they offer 10 year waranty
First time PC builder here, I have NO idea what I'm doing or what to buy or what all the FRICKIN ABBREVIATIONS MEAN but your vidieos are helping me so so much, you are way too underrated.
It's a lot I know! Glad we can help. And if you haven't seen it yet check out our PC Parts Explained 2022 video featured on the channel page for a starting point
Good video! The psu is probably one of the most confusing component in a pc
Yes, and there are so few guides on how to buy one for your build. I hope this helps the community!
Not even close brother
PSU? PC? What are those? 😄 I've got nothing to lose by buying a $35 non rated power supply.
@@PCBuilderChannel sadly, most people like to use very general criteria to choose their PSU, as you mentioned. Wattage and 80 plus certification. However, I believe there should be a real certification that let you know how good the PSU is on an easy way. You can't expect every1 to be tech-savvy or technical enough. Hopefully, people find this amazing guide.
@@PCBuilderChannel Hey it's good to know that you explained well about the cable extensions because they told me never to mix cables from different psu and I was afraid that the extensions would make a short circuit or something hahaha
Jason, I just wanna tell you, that the information here saved me.
I just bought a XPG 850w core reactor (which is a completely unknown brand here in Argentina) and I was between but that PSU or a 850w from Redragon (which is fairly known here, mainly for low prices and relatively medium or poor performances on all products) that was around 10 dollars lower.
According to the psucultists, the XPG core reactor one is yellow meaning "Best units in the tier. High quality and performance proven by professional reviews".
While all Redragon psu's are listed as E tier "avoid".
I'm not the biggest tech guy or engineer, and knowing that psu's experts or enthusiasts do this kind of work, while also give the information for free is really cool!
Today I'm gonna sleep NOT thinking if my Redragon psu is gonna explode or not (I'm exaggerating but it is a big relief)
Thank you Jason for keeping us updated, today you saved me!
Glad I could help! This is a great story! Crisis averted! :)
Que grande, yo tambien estaba entre esas dos, y termine yendo por la XPG, 0 problema y se siente de super calidad, recomendadisima
@@Luuqas Yo la recibo mañana, mi estabilidad emocional depende totalmente de cuantos fps me tire con el monitor nuevo jaja
Adata o XPG solo hace el branding, el fabricante de ese modelo es CWT. Siempre hay que investigar el producto específico, sin importar la marca.
En el caso de las fuentes red dragon, consisten en un modelo desactualizado y son el equivalente a usar una papa de fuente.
Also, be careful of those "Taliban approved" PSUs' by Gigabyte that tend to explode if you even LOOK at them the wrong way! They are probably still out there in high numbers! 😲😂😂
PS: Steve at Gamers Nexus did some good reviews on them!
I recently pulled the plug on a 12-year-old Corsair VX450; it was still running fine but it wasn't going to support a modern GPU. I went with an XPG Core Reactor 750w for $105 CAD. It's overkill for me today (unless I miraculously win a 3080) but I'm counting on it to last me the length of its 10-year warranty. Other PSUs I was considering were the Coolermaster V750 Gold V2, and the Corsair RM750x (2021).
Another AWESOME A tier PSU for those not living in the US with a great price to quality ratio is the XPG Core Reactor series. Fully modular with all Japanese components, it's been tested by third party companies and even youtubers and it's consistently one of the best picks for lower budgets for people like me in South America. I'm not a big fan of the looks, prefer the more sober looks of a Corsair PSU but my PC has a power supply shroud anyway so it doesn't even matter.
Hey Jason,
Just wanted to let you know that I found this video super helpful! I was going to buy an ADX 750W PSU but was sceptical as the build quality wasn’t great even though it was 80+ Gold. After watching your video I decided to go with the Cougar GEX 750W 80+ Gold for my build and will be able to sleep peacefully without being afraid of my PC exploding!
I just bought my first custom prebuilt. I'm still very new to this and got a bronze C PSU only to see all this 80plus stuff and saw people basically saying I might as well put a bomb in my PC if I was going bronze. Felt a lil panicked but this helped clear things up. I love learning about this PC world, there is so many possibilities, but because of that I find people become die hard and fight for their system configuration and components, that I am reminded of the stupid Ps vs Xbox argument. It's unfortunate because it scares new consumers from making reasonable choices and instead blow money on something that is overkill and will never fully use.
Bronze doesnt blow up your system per se, but it can achieved more easily by using cheaper shorter lasting components.
So it might blow much earlier or shows sign of weakening much faster than higher rated better quality units.
When your only 2 year old PSU switches off, when your GPU shifts into high gear, then you know you bought crap. ;)
And when you use a higher tier GPU, lets say an 4070, 4080 or so (im on a RTX 3080 Aorus Master 12GB with up to 420Watts under heavy load),
you simply dont go bronze, if you have to pay your own bills and dont earn 6figures with the rising prices and all.
Efficiency matters, especially if you use it much and your wallet isnt overflowing with money.
Gold is standard nowadays for a reason and very affordable and you dont cheap out on a PSU as your entire rig depends on it, not only efficiency but also safety wise.
Just to keep it in mind, when the need for a replacement or upgrade arises. :)
Just built my first PC using your help! This vid has come at the right time since I want to replace PSU cables to fix all the cable spaghetti.
Congrats on your first build, so glad we could help you! Timing is everything :) Thanks for watching.
Efficiency is not directly related to quality, BUT most platinum and titanium PSU are of the highest quality (and price). Also, titanium certification considers also 10% efficiency, which is very important for light jobs (such as browsing, office etc).
looking into owning my first pc and building it myself and this series has absolutely guided me through,
thank you for supplying so many options in the description it really helps me understand what about a specific model is good so if i wanted to pick something slightly more expensive for an upgrade i can do so with relative confidence
not exactly sure which psu to pick just yet because im terrified of frying my system but ill probably come up with something
So glad we can help with your first build! One you identify the wattage you need using the method here its easy, you can expand the description to see links to the models we recommend, and/or check models you are looking at on the PSU Cultist list linked to the video (:
@@PCBuilderChannel i did! a lot of the models in the mid price range werent available in australia but after doing some research i think im going to go with the rmx 650x, its b-range on PSU cultists, only a little above 100 usd and the 650 W should be more than safe for my
"You don't need to be an electrical enginner to buy a good PSU"
Me, an electrical engineer:👁👄👁
Nice video, I was running a Ryzen 7 5800X + SSD+ Nvidia RTX 3080 OC with a 750W PSU, everything went well until I've decided to add an ASUS high speed WIFI to one of the PCI express, then I started noticing in the most demanding games how the Graphic Card on the most demanding scnenes decreases the power consuming almost 50% , I've changed the PSU to an 1000W and now everything went back to normal...
thanks for sharing! Glad you got what you need now
Damn, I got same specs but an 850w psu, once I boot it up, I pray it runs man, or else I'll pull the same 1000w psu thing!
What 1000w do you use? i really dont wanna blow my pc lol and have the same specs
I ran R7 5800x and RTX 3080 with Seasonic focus gold 650. Everything was fine in idle and low demanding stuff, but in in very demanding game scenes (such as in CP 2077 or Witcher III) PC suddenly shut down after some time. So I bought EVGA Supernova G6 850W and everything is fine now. So don't underestimate with what power supply you run your PC.
I'm glad you brought up the golden sample loophole for certification. That along with a few companies that change parts without making a clear distinction between what are probably different models. Not as bad as the ssd market though.
Yep! Frustrating and it confuses a lot of people into buying bad products
Eh,even cheapest no name SSDs are good enough for most casual gamers.
Better then any HDD.
For serious gamers and content creators and those with important memories, more caution is required , I guess.
But that's why places like this exist.
@@GameslordXY issue isn't if it's good enough, it's getting what you paid for. I do agree that even DRAM-less drives nowadays are good enough but I should know that the sdd is dram-less up front
Amazing video for a noob. And so digestable. I'm heading straight for the build a pc playlist.
So glad you enjoyed and hope the list is helpful!
I loved this video dude! Yes, I'm your twin PC guy. But I just want to say is that, explanation videos like this go a very long way with beginners and a greater reminder for experienced builders. I understood everything and just gained more knowledge on the topic because of you, thank you as always.
( 11:13 For those wondering, with most browsers, hold down the 'CTRL button with the letter F' on your keyboard to pull the search bar up and type in keywords that might exist on the current website you are using. )
Hi PC twin!
Thank you for the feedback and for the tip for viewers!
Recommended PSU requirements are often overkill. Amd recommend 650w for a 6700xt, yet my pc with 100% cpu + gpu usage, monitor, speakers, desk lamp, phone chargers, all running, pulled 360w from the wall. And max power draw over a several week period of normal use was about 330w.
I recently built my current PC and bought a Enermax Revolution D.F. 850. I was happy to see that not only it was A-Tier on the Cultist list, but it was also highly rated by TH-camr content makers such as yourself. What I was surprised about with the PSU was the amount of lube needed to fit it in the case I purchased! Not all ATX cases are created equal when it comes to the PSU enclosure.
Width and height shouldn't be a problem, no doubt there are a lot of dodgy cases out there though.
@@-opus It's a Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact ATX Mid Tower case. I tried a different power supply (albeit under powered) which fit without issue.
@@michaelrice2156 sounds like someone's QA isn't adhering to standards too well.
What about USED PSUs? Should we go for it if we find a good deal?
I watched this video looking for the answer. I'd really appreciate it if you'd answer.
My personal favorite budget option these days is the corsair Cx650M
While the cultist list is good enough for most, there are some issues with where some PSUs are classed. Although there's no drastic issues where it's stuff that'll kill your PC that is well rated on the list.
got the same psu, just died today..only after 6 month use
I remember my first psu back in the day was "80 Plus Certified" and I thought that was really neat.
It died after 2-3 years.
Gonna be that guy and point out that an electrical engineer usually does high voltage (+1kV) stuff, while an electronics engineer usually does fairly low voltage (usually in the realms of 0.1V to 20v after converting from mains voltage (120@60hz or 240@50hz))
The thing is, while power efficiency might not be significant to most people, higher-rated units usually achieve that, at least in part, by using better parts. Yes, better designs as well, but that counts, too. I stick with EVGA and SeaSonic for the most part, but I have also used Thermaltake. The only PSU I've ever had fail was a low-end Corsair. Superflower makes a lot of PSUs under license for other brands.
can you tell the model of the corsair psu that failed, i am interested to know. As i am planning to go with corsair RM series psu for my new build. thx
@@larry-uq9gy Sure. It was a 2014/15 model CX750. After about 10 months of use, it developed what appeared to be wide output fluctuations at 12V, which produced some fascinating game play oddities. Corsair replaced it under warranty. The replacement unit has been absolutely fine and was powering a test bench just a couple of days ago.
@@rangersmith4652 good to know thx. btw do you have any experience with Deepcool pq750m, it's also a tier a unit but its a bit cheaper than the corsair rm750. i am building a pc with r5 5600 non x and rx 6800 and 165hz 1080p monitor. sorry for the bother.😇
@@larry-uq9gy I've never used any Deepcool PSU, so no opinion at all. For anything other than basic home or business computing use, I almost always use EVGA Supernova or Seasonic Focus.
Neither evga nor Corsair actually make their own PSUs. Some of EVGas are made by Seasonic.
i have Zalman LX-600w for 6 years with not even 1 problem.. its running perfect! :)
As a beginner in pc building, I can say that the psu has definetly been the hardest component to choose! I have trouble figuring out what wattage I need, what brands and series are good... all of this under the fear that if you pick a psu of bad quality your entire system might be destroyed, but at the same time trying not to break the bank... it's tough. But your video definetely helps, thanks a lot. Currently, I'm in between picking a cw650 for my rtx 2060 pc, or a tx650. Some people claim the former is of bad quality, others say it's fine, but everyone agrees the tx is better. However, it's also two times more expensive...
Update: got an RM650x
@ W choice my brother got the 850 and its amazing. Great decision
you dont really need to worry about a psu frying your pc or anything, more like having enough power so that your pc doesnt constantly shhutdown/restart during intense gaming or intense overclocking. only a small amount of psu actually catch on fire and theyre rare occurances from reputable manufacturers which you could find out before buying from reading comments or reviews on a psu you want to buy, otherwise all the unknown brand psu's are just not worth ever buying anyway
@@Sky_elf wheres the comma
Go for a brand that only makes psu and cases?
You're like thw Better Call Saul for PCs and i like it .. great content as always really enjoy your vids.
Better Call PC Builder! (;
I love the Cosair HXi series. Have three in multiple builds. I also really like the fact that they're very easy to make custom cables for because they don't have a lot of splits and no pesky inline capacitors. But I'm curious if the new design has the same pinout as the older blue units.
I have an old "blue" HXi which will be pensioned when atx3 units come out in a decent number. It's been in service flawlessly for 10 years.
Three?!
@@GuidoDePalma Yep, I have three of those. Just bought the new HX1500i, which is not ATX3, but they have the Type-4 to 12VHPWR cable and I'm not concerned about running the HX1500i with any configuration regardless of that. However, they have a new PSU, the RM1000x Shift, that seems to be branded as ATX3 but does not have the 12VHPWR connector on the PSU. Which is fine because two 8-pins are rated for more power than the 12VHPWR and the ATX3 features can be implemented with the old connectors as well.
@@arandomcommenter412 Yep... an HX750i in my server, another HX750i on a test bench and an HX1000i in my primary system though I'm building a new one right now which will have an HX1500i, and I'll find somewhere for the 1000i to go.
EVGA 650GQ. Because it was 80+ gold, semi modular and also importantly had a 5 year warranty. I look for 80+ Bronze at least combined with 5 or more years warranty.
Also I had been watching prices and it was on sale over 30% off.
I think the ToughPower TF1 is an underrated unit. It has a ridiculous amount of watts at 1550 but Hardware Busters actually rates the TF1 higher than the HX1500i and it is smaller a well.
You are better than 90% of the teachers I had during long years of my education. I'm 42.
AFAIK, only "ATX 3.0" PSU's will include support for the extra "feedback loop" wiring that support "extra power on demand" being scheduled for the "soon to be released" NVidia 4000 series GPU's. Older ATX 2.xx PSU's would still work if using adapter cables, but would forfeit the power boosting feature. ATX 3.0 PSU's have yet to be offered for retail sale, as of today: September 2, 2022.
The feedback loop is optional and is meant to tighten voltage regulation further. It makes zero difference in practice and has nothing to do with the power output of the PSU.
@@ExPsy Let's just wait for full reviews, after the NVidia 4000 series GPU's are out, and see whether any differences occur when comparing older ATX 2.xx PSU's with ATX 3.xx PSU's in actual gaming usage. Why would they bother making new PSU designs, if there was no tangible benefit? Update: Seasonic appears to now be offering ATX 3.0 PSU's; may depend on geographic location. Four models, starting at 1,000 Watts & in gold & platinum versions.
Incredible amount of vital information compressed inside a 20 minute video, thank you Jason
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching
@@PCBuilderChannel Btw here's an idea for a future video, ATX 3.0 PSU's for those of us who don't to fiddle around with Nvidia power adapters!
Would you by any chance have a few recommendations for a modern ATX 3.0 and PCIe 5.0 PSU? I've seen the Cultists tier list that you recommended and a few other lists but they all seem outdated without the latest ATX 3.0 units which I really want, it's been a bit of a nightmare to find a PSU for my magnum opus build with a 4090 and 13900K. I'm guessing I need like 1200W or 1350W for it, if I would like an option to upgrade to something like a 5090 in the future maybe.
Jason, this is another great video. But I just want tell you that as someome who lives here in the Philippines, or somebody from Australia and the UK, the best cheap psu that anyone can buy at those areas is the MSI MAG A-BN 650w. Its a non modular psu that sells here for 60 bucks/ Php 3000 and this can power up to a 6700xt/ 3070. Its not available in the US and I dunno why.
Thanks for the tip!
Today I bought an Apevia 1000W PCIe 5.0 80+ Gold (not modular) for 80 bucks. I'll do some testing on Saturday.
Aaaand it's going back to Amazon. A whopping 312mV ripple (difference between bottom and peak voltages) on the 12VHPWR cable whilst benchmarking on Shadow of the Tomb Raider in native 4K max settings. Going to try GAMEMAX 1300W PCIe 5.0 / ATX 3.0 80+ Platinum. Wonder who's the OEM building these PSUs for them. Really liked the fully modular port and cable selection, AURA compatible ARGB, Japanese caps and 10 year warranty for 210 bucks. Wish me luck!
For my 12900k and rtx 3090 both stock i use a 1200w Corsair ax 1200i from ages ago. This seems to just fit your calculations perfectly. I might swap to an rtx 4080 if i wanted to in the future so that psu should still be good. After this build i think i'll get a new psu in 3yrs to support these new modern connections and protections upcoming.
great platform.
sir i really thankyou for all your content about guiding newbie to pc experience. your video really simple and much information thats easy to understand, thankyou so much!!
That's great to hear! So glad it was helpful (:
Of course, this video releases just two days after I bought my 650W Super Flower Legion GX Gold PRO 😅 Luckily, your 2021 video and that Tier List helped me quite a lot. I would have picked EVGA PCU most likely (something like GT or SuperNOVA G6) but unfortunately EVGA doesn't ship to cargo forwarder addresses while having best discounts on it's own PCU's (and Amazon\Newegg discounts are not always that good). While reading that tier list and related discussions I also figured that EVGA uses outsource companies to produce their PCU's (like FSP and SuperFlower in the past) so when I saw B-tier 650W SuperFlower for 52$ I jumped the gun and bought it.
Also checked my local retail offers for under 100$ and they all were from E (Avoid) and F (Replace immediately) tier. Yikes!
Glad you got what you needed! (:
650 GT is a solid psu made by HEC
Seasonic, FSP group and Super Flower are great
@@danortizi usually stick to Seasonic PSUs whether it has their branding on it or not.
Hello, how's the psu performance and quality? Did you encounter any problems? I already ordered the same model.
Dude, you remind me of Saul Goodman. I'm sold!
Better Call PC Builder!
You can say that the difference between bronze and gold is only 10%, but that makes the energy loss half. The ratings generally pay for themselves over the years even if it only reduces the gaming power bill by 5-10%.
the difference between bronze and gold is 4%. The big issue is that 80plus != quality.
@@cjmillsnun 92-85=7% efficiency
7/85=8.2% relative difference.
I said between 5-10% savings, turns out it's between 7 and 8.2 depending on calculation. Bugger off with your faulty corrections.
Yesterday morning I was thinking to myself... Man I really wish Jason from PC Builder would make a comprehensive PSU video talking about the LTT psu list. I love this channel! lol Thanks Jason!!!
Like minds! So glad you enjoyed and hope it was helpful!
@@PCBuilderChannel Very you rock man!
Been using a Corsair HX 750 for about 13 years, 2 builds, and it's still going strong.
Yep, the tier list explains why my ryzen 7700x + 1070 Ti combo constantly trigger the overvolt protection on my EVGA N1 650W PSU (ranked F tier) whenever i put it under a sustained load- looks like it's time to get a new PSU
I have been waiting for this video long time. Thank you Jason, love your content.
Hope you enjoy!!
I just finished watching the video. Decided to check the PSU Cultist Tier List to find the current PSU of my 2 PC's. Both of them are in F Tier. I have to change it immediately. Huge thanks to this video for letting me know about it!
Oh no! So glad we could help!
bro really said multiply buy 1.5 (which adds 200 watts) and said add another 100 watts for safety...
I bought a prebuild pc with a non-modular Game Factor 650w. It is a mexican brand, relatively cheap. My system kept hard freezing everyday (Having to hold down the power to shut it off), while gaming, or by waking up the pc, or by opening any app after leaving it idle.
I changed it for an EVGA 750BQ which is a C tier PSU, but I failed to check indepedent reviews and found this PSU is very noisy. The 140mm fan is the loudest noise in my system... but at least my PC has no freezings anymore.
So, a piece of advice; even when you check the PSU cultist list, check independent reviews and comments, they might tell you something you want to know.
I bought a 1000watt platinum evga P6 for $126 after tax early this summer, soo happy with it. Should be enough for next Gen cards!
Just now building my first PC in over two decades and this really helped! Great video, and thank you!
Glad I could help! Best wishes on the build!!
I just bought one and then I find this video. I really do not know Jack about a computer. I looked on ebay and Amazon and did not find many of the psu you mentioned in this video. I was talking to a guy, and he told me the power supplies rated with the 80 would be for power spikes. Over the spring I think the computer got hit by lighting. I replaced the SSD and Ram. And it was working. Then tonight the fan in the power supply sounded like it was going bad. And it would stop working. A moment or two later it would spring to life. Swapped it out with the one that came with the computer, it fired up and seemed to be OK. I think it was the original psw. I had replaced it because the fan sounded like it was going bad. It was a 400 watt. The one that got hit by lighting, I had bought it about 2 years ago. Corsair CV550.
One should NEVER ignore the 80+ ratings, thats complete bogus, especially with raising energy prices and there IS a correlation between high efficiency ratings and build quality, atleast with the well known and good rated brands, especially with the high tier ratings, as they demand higher quality parts to achieve the platinum or titanium ratings.
NO ONE should even consider buying an 80plus PSU below GOLD, as gold is...yeah the name already tells is, the GOLD STANDARD today, which is also very affordable because of beeing 'standard' nowadays.
You simply DONT cheap out on a PSU and go below gold and good tested units,
as your entire rig and the electricity bill depend on it and even those tiny differences in efficiency can make a huge dent in your wallet if ignored, ofc depending on the overall usage scenario and they will pay back the tiny premium over the cheaper versions, sometimes within months or 1 or 2 years, just by saving you some electricity money in the end.😇
If i even think putting an 80+white or bronze in and couple that with my 3080 Aorus Master 12Gb, which can draw up to 420Watts under high load.. *shudder* ...yeah nope not happening, my BeQuiet Straight Power 11 850W Platinum does the Job just as its meant to. 😊
Btw: F*ck Single Rail PSU's. 😝
Oh and sry, about your crappy 115Volts, thats just aweful, you guys seriously need some upgrades over there.😅
Whenever i see PC builds here on youtube I always check what PSU they recommend and look at the list you gave. Very helpful site
It sure is! Glad we could help (:
7:02 80 Plus Titanium wastes 3.2x less energy than 80 Plus Bronze. Maybe in US this wasted energy cost is negligible, but in EU it is currently not. For me 80 Plus Gold (or Platinum) is a perfect balance between PSU cost and wasted electricity cost.
big big buy once, bought a EVGA P1000 Plat about 8 years ago..... still enough to run 3 of these 5900x builds.
Wow, the level of information here is above 9000, best PSU buying guide I've seen.
I've bought a 750W Seasonic Focus GX for the pc I built for my nephew 2 years ago and his PC survived till today, despite frequent, almost daily power outages in the rural area he lives in. That was enough for me to go for my personal build with the same Focus GX PSU this spring, a 1000W one, hoping that I get to upgrade my 3060 ti to a better card when 40 series launch.
So glad you enjoyed! And thanks for sharing
Can never go wrong with Seasonic. I also live in a country with unstable power, the focus series never died on me when others have.
I'll probably catch hell for this, but the tech industry needs to pause a bit until it gets power consumption under control. We're wrecklessly consuming an exponentially increasing rate of electricity for less and less return on investment at the sake of gouging our resources. We also need to make strides with regard to DC power sources; the devices we're producing are outpacing our capacity to reasonably power them.
Great video though. I was always a bit fuzzy on the difference between single- and multi-railed PSUs, and searches never really clarified things. I'd settled on the assumption that multi was more akin to server systems, Threadripper setups, etc. Thanks!
Amazing info, I was brainwashed into only buying 80 gold psu's and just recently bought a 3070ti and was using a 650w PSU and my PC is constantly just shutting down and I'm assuming it's drawing too much power. Time to upgrade and this video is very helpful.
Always great to come back to this, since I often overlook power supplies.
Last week I got from my PC parts connection came up on 3 PSUs RGB Corsair brand a white used and 2 blacks new still wrapped in plastic 750watts 😎👍
Currently building a PC, these videos couldn't be better timed!
My PSU, the Seasonic M12II (EVO) 620W, is listed as Tier E. I have been using it for over 4 years without encountering any problems.
Just want to leave a comment here to support this videos algorithms, this vid is really useful. Thank you again!
We really appreciate that thank you! Glad you enjoyed
I got myself Corsair's RM1000x 2021. I heard so many good things about them that I just couldn't get any other PSU.
This kinda conversation is important I remember when no one talked about it and I came Into building a PC totally blind on this and has issues with my pc..
Agreed! PSU choice is huge
Corsair is a good brand for white builds (If well priced in your region), I got the Corsair RM (2021) 750 W in white for £83
So far owning Corsair PSUs, I haven't had an issue from them and outlasts their warrenty still going strong. (other then annoying mouse squeezing through a security hole in the case and chewing one of the power cable to the video card, also crapping on my 1070 FTW2 killing that, now using a 750Ti) anways I have a CX750M (currently using) and bought a RM850X (2021) Looking forward to finishing my next build still in progress..
I was told by some 850W as a minimum recommendation for my RTX3080 12GB(what can I say I didn't know about allegedly exclusives to RTX40xx exclusive RTX Remix. Ah well too late now)regardless of Nvidia recommendations of 750W and some even claiming 650W being sufficient.
Yet other saying 1200W.
My head was hurting literally because of so much contrary information.
MSI RTX3080 GAMING Z TRIO to be more precise.
A GPU that wastes more energy than even most 3090 cards for whatever reason.
I have some theories,but never mind that.
So I was killing myself slowly with what PSU to get.
1st I ordered Corsair Enthusiast Series TX750M.
A day or 3 later,cancelled and ordered TX850M.
As I had to for reasons postpone PC for a month or so,I had time to think things over.
This time I decided to go with Corsair RM850 2021 non-X.
Same Wattage as TX850M, but higher quality parts and stuff.
The X model would make a mess in my already overstretched budget.
But I intend to have that GPU for 7-10+ years, might add more power-hungry CPU eventually, possibly more RAM,storage etc.
Not OC type,but you never know.
So because of those spikes scary stories I cancelled RM850 2021, and purchased RM1000X 2021 .
Made extreme mess in my budget and forced me to do less than ideal compromises in some areas,but as I said,CPUs can be upgraded more cheaply then GPUs.
That pushed my budget bassicaly to the point of breaking(giving up) because NOT everyone buying 3080 & expensive PSU is rich.
Or even in the middle class for that matter.
I told to some people that 1200W is what would make me truly comfortable, but then I would need to...well they are expensive.
1000W should be sufficient.
If not, well I am done with PCs for good if it kills my PC.
A friend has EVGA FTW3 3090 for a year and 7 years old Corsair HX850x Platinum and had 0 problems so far .
My final specs ended up like this:
Ryzen 5 5500
MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX II
2x16 CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB PRO 3200CAS16
Samsung 980 500GB
MSI RTX3080 GAMING Z TRIO 12GB
Corsair RM1000x 2021
CoolerMaster MasterBox NR600
ARCTIC BioniX120 P12 PWM CF48 120MM Triple Pack.
It comes with A-RGB Remote and A-RGB Hub that has built-in controler and spliter so that even boards like B450 Tomahawk can work with more than 4 case fans and with RGB fans .
With 2 pre-instaled + 3 additional, that's 5 casefans.
I dunno if my airflow solution would make Steve Nexus proud,but I wanted my shiny new GPU protected as much as I can afford and a little bit more.
His videos about airflow and temperature importance are to blame for that.
I wanted to get Arctic Freezer 34 eSports Duo for my CPU,but because I went to RM1000X, I will have to wait for a few months at least.
Longer probably.
It's quite cheap, but the Inflation makes life complicated.
I have an EVGA G2 750W. Superb unit. This was the first of the new series when EVGA decided to revamp their product lines to compete with Corsair 8 years ago and found SuperFlower to make these. Took the market by storm. If you're comfortable doing research, ignore the stats. Find a site that will tell you who makes the unit you're looking at. The dirty little secret is that the vast amount of brands do not make their products. Take a look at EVGA. They "make" a ton of different psu's and yet, there's a huge difference and different supplier for each. You want a SuperFlower unit? Only about 10 of all their units are. They also have Seasonic units, HEC, CWT and others. That BS is not that great even though it looks just like the G# series.
Thanks man, this video is precisely what I've been seraching for!
Thanks so much for these invaluable videos to carry pc builders to their dream pc ❤
Glad we could help! If you build it, it will run :D
This video really helped with my PSU selection. It gets straight to the point.
So glad it was helpful!
All my friends are saying that 850 psu is extremely overkill for a 3070 build but I think it's the most safe option here since most of 750 psus cost almost the same anyway (I used that cultists list, didn't search lower that A though). I don't know who's right here but I'm fine as long as I know for sure that the psu wouldn't let me down. I also said that I'd get a 1000 watt minimum when I'm upgrading to a 40 series and have the money and we disagreed hard on that.
I personally love my 700 watt Seasonic Titanium rated fanless psu. has lasted me a few years and just upgraded a bit ago to an rtx 3070ti and a 7700x i got for Christmas. has been very reliable.
Doing my research for my next build I'm so impressed that Jason even includes upcoming products at the time of the video (rtx 4000, RX 7000). Thanks for the help Jason 👍👍🤗🤗
Case: Corsair icue 4000x
Processor: Ryzen 5700x
Mobo: Gigabyte B550M DS3H
GPU: Asrock Rx6800xt phantom gaming
Adata XPG Spectrix S40G 1TB
AIO : Tecware mirage ARGB Liquid cooling
Ram: Corsair vengeance RGB PRO SL 3600mhz 16GBx2
PSU: FSP Dagger 850w Pro 80 plus gold sfx full modular power supply
Is this build working?
Great video, great voice. super easy to understand because you are not a slow talker. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!
I really hope I didn't fudge up when I recently bought a Corsair RM850x v3 to run my new pc...
It's gonna power a R7 5800x3d, Gtx 1080ti (With upgrade possibility to a 3080ti or 3090 later), Corsair Vengeance RGB 32gb ram (4x8gb - 3200mhz), 2 x m.2 and some RGB shenanigans 👀
No plans to overclock anything aside to get the ram to run at the CPUs allowed max speed.
Edit: BEAUTIFUL VOID KITTY 🖤🖤🖤
Thanks for the video, I just splurged 200 bucks on a Corsair RM1000x after having my PC shut off multiple times under high loads playing Path of Exile. I was completely lost as to where to start and even had the fun of buying the wrong PSU and realizing it after I plugged in every cable besides the GPU (which needed a 16 pin PCI-e). Don't be like me, guys, do your research first.
I swear you’re one of the best pc content creator you hit every note I’m thankful for the videos you make they are very helpful
Thanks so much for the great feedback! That means a lot
Thanks for that! So happy that you're finding them helpful :)
I was searching for good PSU lately and You just posted this video. Right on time. Thank You
Like minds! Hope this is helpful!
your videos by far are best in terms of providing stuff that matters in very crystal clear manner...!!
That's great to hear! So glad they are helpful and thanks for watching
So.. I'm building a PC
The estimate watts on PC Part Picker is 562W (x1.5 that gives me 843w)
With i7-13700KF and RTX3060 MSI Ventus 3x... 850W PSU in A or B tier should be good right?
the 16 pin 12vhpwr psu's are now out, so buy one of those when you have a GPU with that connector. These connectors can help the gpu to manage stability and avoid crashing if it needs more than the psu can handle.
I grabbed EVGA Supernova 1200 P2 80+ Platinum, 1200W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI and Crossfire Ready 10 Year Warranty Power Supply 220-P2-1200-X1 159.99 on super sale
Wow! This is one hell of a densily packed video which made me learn a lot about PSU's.
Love to hear it, thanks for watching! The more you know!
My Antec 1000w 80+ PSU HCP Platinum since 2013 is working with no issues. Old brand PSU should be considered DIY system build with a minimum of 750w and $100.
Bro, my computer is like this
1. Mobo high end series B660 atx msi tomhwark ddr4 wifi.
2. Ram 32GB = 4x8Gb.
3. 22 inch monitors.
4. CPU = i3+12100.
5. 1HDD 3.5 inch (7200rpm) (1TB). 6. 1SSD 2.5 inch (500Gb).
7. Keyboard + mouse of course.
8. Other devices are USb3.0+2.0 to use Android phone to turn into WiFi internet hotspot
9. 5x120mm fan
2x80mm fans
1x250mm fan for cpu cooler.
10. GPU rx6600xt 6-8 hours of use for TH-cam content + live streaming + editing. Outervision says Load wattage = 385watt. outer vision Recommend using 435 watts I added 100 watts, used 550 watts FSP+bronze. My question is, is it safe or not? In fact, I already bought a 550 watt PSU. Please answer, bro, I'm afraid why is it okay for my PC's health, I should want to buy a 650 watt one but my budget is limited. 🙏 My PSU is FSP 550watt 80+bronze
Use the method in the video! It will tell you what you need for your build
What about the sales statement , Japanese capacitors?
With PSUs, I have noticed that they persist across many generations, as their main purpose is to deliver power. For this reason, I have almost no budget limit when I am looking for a new PSU. I opt for a Titanium-rated PSU with a capacity of 1000W or higher, really the biggest beast of PSU i can physically fit inside my case. Why such high capacity? Well, I am sure you have witnessed how power-hungry components have become. This way, you will be future-proofed no matter how power-hungry components may get. The last PSU i had for 10 years and it was still working like a charm.
Literally just watched a video about PSUs like It was the Sopranos finale 🤣👊🏼 Awesome video bro
Multi-rail vs single rail does absolutely matter. The main reason of most of power supplies nowadays are single rail is because multi rail supplies have power imbalances issues, meaning one rail could be max out while the other one is at 10%. That absolutely impact durability and power efficiency. 80 plus certification also matters. More efficiency means less heat dissipation and less power consumption.
VERY VERY HELPFUL, just bought a pmg 650 c teir 🏆🏆🏆
10/10 helpful. Will watch again. In my next build, I'd say about 80% of the parts will heavily informed by your research. Thanks for taking the time to share this. Other channels have great in depth content, but when theory turns into spending, here is where I go now.
So glad its helpful! Thank you for the feedback we really appreciate it
whoa i just bought msi a850gf psu because it was the cheapest 850 watt available and who hasn't heard about msi, i didn't know it was A-tier PSU. all other youtubers are just promoting B or C tier power supplies as they get sponsored. Thanks for the information. i have 12700f with 3060ti and will ugrade to something powerful in the future.
Glad you got what you needed! And thanks for watching (:
This video and your channel as a whole are very helpful and answers every question I have, thanks.
Glad you've found it so helpful! And thank you for watching!
Nobody is explaining whether or how the multi-rail circuit is divided among the PSU connectors. If some connectors are running on once circuit, and others on another circuit, then can you unintentionally overload one circuit while under-utilizing the other simply by not balancing the use of your available connectors? I see no indication of what rail each connector is tied to on the back of my Corsair HX850.
Well, since everyone says "do never skimp on the power supply..." - my method of buying one is quite easy: Buy a "prime Seasonic" PSU (buying from a manufacturer that values its reputation more than a few Króna)
I just detected a bad psu on one of my builds.. great moment to see u just uploaded this video.
As much as it sucks to find you made a mistake, we all make them (even I still do!). Definitely replace a bad PSU and glad I could help!
Deepcool PX1000. A-tier. Friggin' swish.
When they don't have data on a psu, they chuck it at the bottom, so keep that in mind if yours is listed as a stinker.
10% on 500W (total consumption, for example while gaming) with 4 hours daily gaming (or simlilar workload like video editing when not gaming etc.) = 50W * 4 * 365 = 73kw/h annual.
Here in the Philippines current is about 23 US Cents per Kw/h while in Germany it is around 35+ US cents per kw/h.
So here in the Phils I could save up to 17.52 USD annually. Given that my current power supply (Coolermaster 620W full modular) is already 13 years old (that's why I replace it now with the Seasonic GM-750 for like 95 USD, as my PSU starts making issues) - I can save 170 USD for 10 years of usage. Seasonic gives 7 years warranty for the GM750 and 10 years warranty for the GX750.
So I would say it definitely worth the extra amount you pay for Gold or Platinum over Bronze or even white if you're a gamer or use it for other heavy workload. Not so much for office work.
Since my wife plays as well, the savings are even much higher. Our PC runs a good 8 hours a day. So twice my assumed runtime above.
So why should I cheap out here? Makes no sense. With couple hours daily gaming I have the price gap between bronze and gold back within 3-4 years.