Thanks John. Your video saved me. I had full string tension on the neck when tightening the coordinator nuts and I couldn't understand why my jo sounded so muted. Incredible difference. Cheers from Australia!
Thanks a lot! After getting my head to the right tension, this video helped me understand how to get back to having a little gap between my fingerboard and tension hoop. The banjo sounds a lot better now.
Great video. I like to measure the inside diameter of the rim in both directions and lightly adjust the rods (if needed) to get the rim as round as possible.
If you can not use the rods at all that would be ideal.but a small amount is ok imo.thd trouble comes when folks try to make a big correction. In that case, a heel recut is in order
Great vid. My bottom coordinator rod doesn't stick out of the pot as much as yours does in the vid. Should it? I bought it used and don't know if it was like that from the start. It's a Washburn 6 string banjitar.
You only need enough exposed threads to allow the tailpiece bracket and the nut on the end of the rod to all mesh up snugly. Too much sticking out can interfere with the tailpiece hangar bolt, too little and you can't attach the TP hardware
Both co rods actually anchor the neck to the Shell / pot.. the inside and outside nuts on the rear of the bottom coordinator rod are the ones that make major action changes. But those nuts should NOT be used to warp the rim and change action. The change at that area should be very minimal. If a major change is needed, recut the cut of the neck to change the abgley, or shim, and or change bridge sizes. The less shear force on the rim the better. I always set the rods to neutral.
If its a very small change, you can use the rods. The truss rod can be used to give you more or less. For higher action, a slightly taller bridge works. For lower action i dont recommend going lower in size than a 5/8. If truss rod tweaks wont lower the action enough with 5/8 then the neck heel will need to be cut to change the neck angle.
I was able to lower the action 1/32” using the back coordinator rod on a used RK Br-35. I’m pretty happy with it now. In your opinion is that too much stress on the rim?
Thanks John. Your video saved me. I had full string tension on the neck when tightening the coordinator nuts and I couldn't understand why my jo sounded so muted. Incredible difference. Cheers from Australia!
Great, I'm happy that the video helped you with your set up!
Good stuff John . Thanks for being so generous with your knowledge
I'm just paying it forward
Thanks for explaining the problem with over-tightening- good advice and I will follow it..
Thanks a lot! After getting my head to the right tension, this video helped me understand how to get back to having a little gap between my fingerboard and tension hoop. The banjo sounds a lot better now.
I know Deering Banjos for coordinator rods they recommend making the changes while the banjo is up to pitch.
Great video. I like to measure the inside diameter of the rim in both directions and lightly adjust the rods (if needed) to get the rim as round as possible.
If you can not use the rods at all that would be ideal.but a small amount is ok imo.thd trouble comes when folks try to make a big correction. In that case, a heel recut is in order
Excellent .. ♥️👍
Thank, I hope this is useful
Thanks for the video, would have been helpful to watch how you adjust the rods however.
Great vid. My bottom coordinator rod doesn't stick out of the pot as much as yours does in the vid. Should it? I bought it used and don't know if it was like that from the start. It's a Washburn 6 string banjitar.
You only need enough exposed threads to allow the tailpiece bracket and the nut on the end of the rod to all mesh up snugly. Too much sticking out can interfere with the tailpiece hangar bolt, too little and you can't attach the TP hardware
Podría hacer la explicación en español , para que sirven los distritos se me destempla mucho el banjo tengo un banjo tenor 4 cuerdas
Hi,
How do you adjust Banjo Neck Coordinator Rod on the type that does not have a nut on the outside?
Regards
John
In that case you just make sure the rod itself is very snug. Without a nut on the outside , at the tailpiece bracket, theres nothing you can do.
Thanks. Sure wish the whole banjo could be seen in the iPad's field of vision!
Yep, the iPad records great quality video but is cumbersome to use like this.
So is it the bottom rod that can be adjusted to tighten neck snug to rim/ body?
Both co rods actually anchor the neck to the Shell / pot.. the inside and outside nuts on the rear of the bottom coordinator rod are the ones that make major action changes. But those nuts should NOT be used to warp the rim and change action. The change at that area should be very minimal. If a major change is needed, recut the cut of the neck to change the abgley, or shim, and or change bridge sizes. The less shear force on the rim the better. I always set the rods to neutral.
How do you suggest lowering or raising the string height if not by the coordinating rods?
If its a very small change, you can use the rods. The truss rod can be used to give you more or less. For higher action, a slightly taller bridge works. For lower action i dont recommend going lower in size than a 5/8. If truss rod tweaks wont lower the action enough with 5/8 then the neck heel will need to be cut to change the neck angle.
John Boulding
Thanks John...
You da Man!
Glad to help!
I was able to lower the action 1/32” using the back coordinator rod on a used RK Br-35. I’m pretty happy with it now.
In your opinion is that too much stress on the rim?
@@banjomark9900 2/32 is about the max i personally like to see, so you are cool.
Hi,
How do
you adjust Banjo Neck Coordinator Rod on the
type that does not have a nut on the outside?
Regards
John
you hardly see anything camera position is poor
Come be my camera man,lol
Can’t see what your doin!
Camera position sucks ... 👎
Best I could do trying it two handed with a banjo, haha.