Thank you for the info about the focus split prism! I had no idea about the 1/3 thing and thought my mirrors were misaligned b/c I had so much overhead space! This is a relief
I have an ivory model 2 and love the look of it, the hints of black and ivory with light brown leather makes it very appealing looking and certainly vintage.
Beautiful end result Jake! I must say, despite all the other options for techs and larger companies that refurbish SLR Polaroids, these videos have really shown how thorough you are with your techniques. I wish some of the other techs would publish their efforts on TH-cam. Question, can you do anything about a Model 1 with some decent scratches on the rear panel (the one with the film counter)? I believe these came from a leather case that had some dust or other rough particles collect in the bottom. I assume the only option would be replacement of the rear panel. This is the Model 1 I've said I'll be sending you at some point. Thanks again for the interesting and informative content. It's always very satisfying to see a (cosmetically) rough camera turn out basically perfect!
hmmm it really depends on the scratch It is certainly possible to polish the metal. However, if the scratch has gone through the metallic layer and into the plastic of the body panel, then the panel must simply be replaced. I have many Model 1 bottom panels spare fortunately.
@@theinstantcameraguy Ah, I just had another look at my Model 1 and the scratching isn't as bad at I remembered. There is a small chip in the foil in one spot but nothing too serious. For only being a metallic coating, it's quite surprising how durable Polaroid managed to make the end result. It's also impressive that the ivory Model 2s don't seem to have any noticeable yellowing of the plastic. I'd expect to see it from 20 year old plastic, let alone 40 year old plastic!
@@andrewhamop6665 the ABS plastic models are actually very durable. ABS is more flexible than metal-plated polysulfone, so they are actually less prone to cracked panels Its hard to tell, but certainly it seems these white plastic ones DO yellow, but only very mildly, to the point of becoming 'ivory' instead of stark white. Under the leather you can actually see a difference in shade. I'd argue the ivory looks nicer than stark white would have been
@@theinstantcameraguy Ah, now that you mention it I do notice a little bit of shading in the video. Since you previously mentioned watching people like Adrian's Digital Basement, I assume you're familiar with the retrobrite process? If not, it's a technique used to restore yellow plastic to its original color. It involves submerging plastic in hot water with hydrogen peroxide and exposing it to UV light. Your Australian summers are perfect for some speedy retrobriting. I'd be interested in seeing how the ivory panels would react to that process, if you ever decide to try it. Of course it reacts to every plastic differently, so maybe try it on some scrap panels you have lying around first.
@@andrewhamop6665 I did toy with the idea of retrobriting a Model 2! I have done it before using the vapor technique. Where I am in Perth it would be perfect My only fear is it would destroy the black painted sections... and ultimately be more trouble than it was worth I'll probably just keep them ivory :)
Man I love these videos, it’s so interesting hearing your thoughts and comments about Polaroids! I’ve gotta send you my sx-70 at some point but I your not too overloaded 😭
My SX-70 Alpha SE is completely dead, even with a fresh film pack instead of the usual empty test cartridge. It's got a bit of haze in the viewfinder as well, but otherwise I have no idea what else might be wrong with it as I have no way to power it on. Would it still fall under a complete overhaul? Plus the SX-70R PCB and dongle This would cost around $700 AU, correct? Could I deduct the price of replacement skins (I've got custom ones in the works)?
To answer your questions: 1) This camera definitely sounds like it falls under the 'overhaul is necessary' category. Hazy viewfinder + non functional shutter = full teardown required for sure 2) As for pricing, best to message me directly through all the links I provide in the video descriptions. I specifically have chosen not to list prices on these videos to keep them as timeless as possible. Prices are subject to inflation, rising parts costs, demand etc and are constantly subject to change. So I don't want to find that in a few years my old videos are totally irrelevant 3) I will ALWAYS be happy to deduct from the total price any parts that clients supply. For example, if your camera has a smashed viewfinder panel, and you are supplying me a fresh one, I will of course not charge you for it! This applies to leather too. I often recommend clients with exotic tastes or custom leather requirements simply send leather directly to me to bypass the middle man :)
I noticed that one of my motor's brushes had fallen out of its clamp. Is there a way to glue that? I haven't tried epoxy at the moment because I didn't want a mess. Or would you rather change the whole motor?
The young ones don’t understand, they were merely adopted Impossible Project. We were born by it, molded by it. I didn’t experience Polaroid until I was already a (wo)man.
at 46:16 in the video you spin the gear counter clockwise to get it to go back down, but when i attempt to do this with mine, it gets close to the bottom then pops back up, is something else broken now?
!["สนธิ" ห่วงมีขบวนการปกป้อง "ทนายตั้ม" : [THE MESSAGE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2GQNp3EoMc0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the info about the focus split prism! I had no idea about the 1/3 thing and thought my mirrors were misaligned b/c I had so much overhead space! This is a relief
Welcome to the baffling design choices of Polaroid :)
I have an ivory model 2 and love the look of it, the hints of black and ivory with light brown leather makes it very appealing looking and certainly vintage.
Keep these videos coming my friend! Absolutely love these videos.
I have no plan on stopping!
Beautiful end result Jake!
I must say, despite all the other options for techs and larger companies that refurbish SLR Polaroids, these videos have really shown how thorough you are with your techniques. I wish some of the other techs would publish their efforts on TH-cam.
Question, can you do anything about a Model 1 with some decent scratches on the rear panel (the one with the film counter)? I believe these came from a leather case that had some dust or other rough particles collect in the bottom. I assume the only option would be replacement of the rear panel. This is the Model 1 I've said I'll be sending you at some point.
Thanks again for the interesting and informative content. It's always very satisfying to see a (cosmetically) rough camera turn out basically perfect!
hmmm it really depends on the scratch
It is certainly possible to polish the metal. However, if the scratch has gone through the metallic layer and into the plastic of the body panel, then the panel must simply be replaced.
I have many Model 1 bottom panels spare fortunately.
@@theinstantcameraguy Ah, I just had another look at my Model 1 and the scratching isn't as bad at I remembered. There is a small chip in the foil in one spot but nothing too serious. For only being a metallic coating, it's quite surprising how durable Polaroid managed to make the end result. It's also impressive that the ivory Model 2s don't seem to have any noticeable yellowing of the plastic. I'd expect to see it from 20 year old plastic, let alone 40 year old plastic!
@@andrewhamop6665 the ABS plastic models are actually very durable. ABS is more flexible than metal-plated polysulfone, so they are actually less prone to cracked panels
Its hard to tell, but certainly it seems these white plastic ones DO yellow, but only very mildly, to the point of becoming 'ivory' instead of stark white. Under the leather you can actually see a difference in shade. I'd argue the ivory looks nicer than stark white would have been
@@theinstantcameraguy Ah, now that you mention it I do notice a little bit of shading in the video.
Since you previously mentioned watching people like Adrian's Digital Basement, I assume you're familiar with the retrobrite process? If not, it's a technique used to restore yellow plastic to its original color. It involves submerging plastic in hot water with hydrogen peroxide and exposing it to UV light. Your Australian summers are perfect for some speedy retrobriting. I'd be interested in seeing how the ivory panels would react to that process, if you ever decide to try it. Of course it reacts to every plastic differently, so maybe try it on some scrap panels you have lying around first.
@@andrewhamop6665 I did toy with the idea of retrobriting a Model 2!
I have done it before using the vapor technique. Where I am in Perth it would be perfect
My only fear is it would destroy the black painted sections... and ultimately be more trouble than it was worth
I'll probably just keep them ivory :)
Another wonderful episode happily not scared by the Australian Postal Service.
I have the all black model 2 version.
Man I love these videos, it’s so interesting hearing your thoughts and comments about Polaroids! I’ve gotta send you my sx-70 at some point but I your not too overloaded 😭
thank you for your support!
I'm never usually TOO overloaded except for the Christmas holiday period... which can get a bit nuts!
I love your videos!
Thank you for your kind words!
My SX-70 Alpha SE is completely dead, even with a fresh film pack instead of the usual empty test cartridge. It's got a bit of haze in the viewfinder as well, but otherwise I have no idea what else might be wrong with it as I have no way to power it on. Would it still fall under a complete overhaul? Plus the SX-70R PCB and dongle This would cost around $700 AU, correct? Could I deduct the price of replacement skins (I've got custom ones in the works)?
To answer your questions:
1) This camera definitely sounds like it falls under the 'overhaul is necessary' category. Hazy viewfinder + non functional shutter = full teardown required for sure
2) As for pricing, best to message me directly through all the links I provide in the video descriptions. I specifically have chosen not to list prices on these videos to keep them as timeless as possible. Prices are subject to inflation, rising parts costs, demand etc and are constantly subject to change. So I don't want to find that in a few years my old videos are totally irrelevant
3) I will ALWAYS be happy to deduct from the total price any parts that clients supply. For example, if your camera has a smashed viewfinder panel, and you are supplying me a fresh one, I will of course not charge you for it! This applies to leather too. I often recommend clients with exotic tastes or custom leather requirements simply send leather directly to me to bypass the middle man :)
I noticed that one of my motor's brushes had fallen out of its clamp. Is there a way to glue that? I haven't tried epoxy at the moment because I didn't want a mess. Or would you rather change the whole motor?
That motor is dead now
Replace it
I recently posted a video about how to do this
The young ones don’t understand, they were merely adopted Impossible Project. We were born by it, molded by it. I didn’t experience Polaroid until I was already a (wo)man.
this comment made me exhale quickly through my nose
People complaining about modern Polaroid film... smh...
They weren't even their for PX70FF!
at 46:16 in the video you spin the gear counter clockwise to get it to go back down, but when i attempt to do this with mine, it gets close to the bottom then pops back up, is something else broken now?
My guess is you accidentally messed up the timing somehow or something is broken