1890s Victorian Ladies’ Walking Suit || From Concept to Costume
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ย. 2020
- How should a late Victorian lady (or any skirt-wearing person) dress for Getting Things Done when it's the 1890s? A walking suit, of course! These two- or three-piece outfits consisted of a walking skirt, a jacket (often a menswear-inspired Eton jacket), and could include a vest or waistcoat as well. Mine is made in wool using modern and historical sewing techniques, and would be suitable late Victorian dress for a woman at a professional job, visiting friends, taking a stroll, or anything else the New Woman of the 1890s and Edwardian era was winning the freedom to do. Please enjoy this selection of my internal monologue as I bring a historical costume to life, starting with research and planning all the way through cutting, construction, and a fiddle jam in the park!
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Other creators referenced--
@priorattire made the beautiful silk 3-piece outfit seen as I scroll through Instagram.
@bernadettebanner's video on making an 1890s vest from Keystone : • Drafting and Making a ...
Patterns--
Truly Victorian 1897 Eton jacket : trulyvictorian.info/index.php...
The Keystone Jacket and Dress Cutter : archive.org/details/keystonej...
The welt pocket tutorial I used : threadtheory.ca/blogs/tutoria...
Materials--
Green wool : dorrmillstore.com
Stiff cotton organdy : www.voguefabricsstore.com/cot...
My watch : db-leather.com
Hatpin is an antique from The Lady Detalle : www.etsy.com/shop/LadyDetalle - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
It seems like something a young McGonagall would wear
i want to make a 1990's meet the 1890's walking suit, Victorian pattern but all denim
a jalking juit
The walking skirt shape is soooooo updateable! (not that different from a modern A-line maxi, except for the pleated/gathered down centre back panel). Flattering and comfortable :)
Y'all officially broke my brain and my day has barely started 😂
Why did I think 'leather' up until reading the 'denim' part? Now I can't get that image out of my mind 😁🤔
I'd watch that video
Basting a dart with a ladder stitch is BRILLIANT!!! I hate darts, vehemently! Placing, adjusting, pinning -- GRRRRR! But that was amazing. I have a dress that has been in the PhD bin for years because it has 8 of those beasts. I will try this, definitely! Your entire outfit was gorgeous. Love a good vest. It fills one with hope when someone else can do something notoriously difficult (welt pocket), and go, Yeah, no problem. Loved this video! Stay well.
I always get my darts wonky so am going to try this out
This so much. My jaw hit the ground when I saw that. So simple, yet so effective. 😯
"I basted the darts with a ladder stitch that folds them up when it's pulled tight, so they were super easy to sew."
Me: *wide-eyed awe at the simple GENIUS, points at screen* "I'm doing that for the REST OF MY LIFE!!"
Seriously, it seems so obvious now, because mis-matched darts was just a thing I thought I needed to live with.
Both the tricks V shows for getting neater darts in this video will probably be very helpful should I ever need to sew darts.
This is the first time i ever found someone who is as fond of nice foresty greens as me! I must say, in my totally unbiased opinion, that you have good taste ;)
Welcome to the forest green appreciation club buddy!
Forest green is my colour as a horse rider, though it's not the most flattering on me. It's classical, suits most horses and is not easily dirtied. What more can a horserider ask for?
So cool to see you play the fiddle (I play celtic cello). I've been a costumer since . . .well. . . let's just say well before you were born and maybe even your mother. I say that because you wanted to know what we do to find reasons to make a costume and then wear it on an adventure. I think my #1 best costume adventure EVER, was making a Luna costume for me and a Sol costume for my then 23 yo daughter. Then travel from Oregon to Edinburgh to participate in the Samhain celebration. We had a great Mother Daughter adventure that will never be topped. Ghost Tours, Raves (yes I went to a rave), Train rides to no where, Shakespeare in the royal theater, and a magnificent Samhain parade from the castle down the Royal Mile. I appreciate you sharing your walking skirt goal. I have made walking skirts from that folkwear pattern for over 30 years. It is a standard that is hard to beat. Good work!
There’s a Samhain parade here in Edinburgh? 😳 I moved just before COVID hit, so I’m still unfamiliar with the great stuff that happens in this city... thanks for mentioning it, hopefully next year I’ll be able to partake!
When you mentioned about following instructions, I was drinking my coffee and I just nodded my head. Because I feel you. Instructions are guidelines and sometimes you need to live life on the edge.
This whole outfit is so lovely. I've been planning on making a Victorian/Edwardian walking skirt for a while now and after seeing yours I'm going to have to make it. I plan on using black wool for the skirt so that I can wear it to work as part of my bus driver's uniform so I can keep warm in the winter.
This was so soothing to watch while waiting for the election results. That shade of green is delicious.
I love the solution of using a piece of felted self fabric for the waistband to reduce bulk, I shall have to remember that!
Thank you for sharing (and belated Happy Birthday).
Favourite part of a project? Finishing it 😂 I love sewing, it's therapeutic to me (hand sewing, I work well with machine but to me they are sus 👀 ), and I don't mind the wait so I can do things neatly. But damn if it's not nice to see the fruits of my labour after a day's work.
Most I've done so far are alterations and stuff like that, I'm a broke college student so I can't really splurge on fabric, but a walking skirt or three are on the top of my list of things to do in the future.
Your suit looks lovely, btw! That's a wonderful green shade! Who needs excuses to rock a full Victorian emsemble? Wear it to the grocery store, wear it to the gas station, wear it to work. Haters gonna hate, so keep on rolling 😂
Your presentation, as usual, was lovely and the outfit itself, exquisite. Your videos bring me so much inspiration and my favourite part of this video was at the end when you showed a responsible social gathering amongst friends. Brava, Vee, Brava!
Omg. Ladder stitch to baste the darts 🤯
That “no. just no.” comment on the vest pattern - AGREE! I have it, and it’s terrible. Wasted some really good wool with it...
(Yes, I did a mock-up, it looked fine at that point)
My first thought: OMG we have the same favourite colour xD
It's been pointed out to me that Folkwear, the pattern company whose walking skirt pattern I used, has a lot of content that appropriates from Asian cultures. I'm very sorry for not having done my due diligence and noticed this before I chose to use this pattern, or spoke about it in a video. While I can't edit the mention of them out of this video now it's been posted, I will no longer be using their patterns and recommending that my fellow costumers do likewise.
My IG : @missSnappyDragon
the Small Dragon Tea Fund : ko-fi.com/snappydragon
Creators mentioned in the video : @PriorAttire and @Bernadette Banner.
Pattern, fabric, and tutorial info is in the description!
Sooo loved the fact that you took on such a big project despite having chronic pain. And that you altered things to alleviate adding even more pain. (I also live with chronic pain) I also enjoyed seeing you show modern usage and a fun day out in costume with friends (and musical instruments, to boot!)
You started playing and I did a massive spittake. I literally just (like, last night) made a new non-musical youtube account specifically so I could start commenting on/interacting with the historical costube community and not accidentally spam my bandmate with craft content and then I the first thing I see today is this hahaha
Also, I feel ya with being out of practice. My fiddle is sounding very sad with no sessions to play at
Thank you for the update! This is why I always read the comments on crafting videos. LOL
This green wool is absolutely splendid.
You play the violin/ fiddle? That's so cool. Me too!
And I just love how well the aethetics of victorian clothing and a violin go together. It's probably the hour glass silhouette. I wish you'd see the combination more often.
Anyway, loved watching the rest of the video aswell. I really like that little "lookbook" portion where you combined the single pieces with modern clothing.
I love the Eton jacket so very much, my other fav is the Ripple jacket yummmy. I am in love with that green wool.
Thee journey from the idea to the finished product is my favorite part.It is satisfying to be wearing that which your mind envisioned
That fabric was just made for this suit! And I really love the look of those pieces with modern clothes - Headturner-outfit ready to go. ^_________^
That dart trick blew my mind! 4 years of fashion design in college, and they don't teach you anything remotely as useful as this. I'm going to try on my next project involving darts!
Just getting into costumeing and today I'm about to cut my fabric for my 1st Victorian era walking skirt and 1st major sewing project. I'm not one to usually have anxiety but I'm totally understanding it better now. have so much fear about cutting this fabric wrong! Lol just gotta "measure thrice and cut once"
My favorite thing about costuming is bringing history to life, and feeling a grate sence of conection to my ancestors. Knowing I made it, is awsome. And #historybounding is such a conversation starter.
I'm sure you're sick to death of hearing this, but in this outfit you remind me so much of Anne Shirley. Thank you for the share. This is a beautiful suit. Well done.
Watching a Master Seamstress, you make creating a lovely garment so doable! Thank you BEAUTIFUL SUIT!
Love the waistcoat. Especially as it can be crossed over into modern wear so easily.
Your suit turned out to be extremely gorgeous and I Love the color. Seeing you leave your house you reminded me of Anne Shirley Blythe from the books by L.M.Montgomery's Anne of Green Gables. Love how you spent your birthday with your friends. 💚🎂🎻🎁🎉
watching you weigh down fabric with tiles is a procedure I wish I had known, and been able to teach my mom when she taught me to sew. she suffered from fabric drift while cutting.
Lovely video, lots of helpful information about sources. I feel you on the cutting anxiety - I have materials from Hong Kong & Indonesia that I can't easily get more of... the perfection anxiety has them gathering dust :) And yeah, ladder stitch darts... definitely giving that a try! The picnic looked like fun - and I really enjoy seeing the finished project out in the wild, in full movement.
I love the whole walking suit. I already have a pattern, although I’m not remembering what brand it is.
As I’ve been ill since Spring (not COVID) & am still recovering, it is lovely to begin thinking historic patterns! I want to completely change my wardrobe, although I’m afraid I’ll be stuck with a wool blend for my trumpet skirt. Budgets!
I never use a machine to sew as I get terrible headaches even thinking about it. Anxiety, anyone? LOL
However, sewing by hand relaxes me.
I love your channel. You’re quite a bit farther down the line of expertise in adapting patterns, so I’m learning good things. I appreciate your sharing it.
Welt pockets always look smart, don’t they? Clean & spare.
Looking forward to more. 😊
It looks so good! I love the color and the shape is lovely! I used the TV Eaton Jacket for my Jiminy Cricket costume and I really enjoyed working with it. Fantastic work!
The green colour! My heart is filled with joy. Thank you
OMG I WANT TO PLAY VIOLIN WITH YOU!!! I JUST FINISHED MY GRADE 8 EXAM AND GOT A MERIT!!! OMG!!! so nice to hear another violinist on yt
You're right, that colour is absolutely GORGEOUS!!!! Your hat is also amazing, big fan of that!
I love the moment of "it looks like a thing!" that usually occurs midway through a project. That, the the first time wearing it out and about.
omg when you dramatically turn in the beginning, you look almost like a female version of young Domhnall Gleeson (when he was in Harry Potter films). also simultaneously cute and fierce.
I mean it in the best way possible, Gleeson is very attractive!
I actually got emotional when you stepped out in your beautiful outfit. Your radiant, like a new bloom.💗🤗
Beautiful! I love how the skirt drapes.Wool is well worth the cost.
have I watched this video over ten times? yes. am I probably going to watch it ten more times? also yes
Absolutely wonderful! Your skirt walkthrough has reduced my own anxiety regarding pattern choice, and straight seams are the best I can do right now, so yay! Thank you, and you looked beautiful!
It came out beautifully! I love how you documented all of this, and “revealed” it!!!
This is so fabulous. The colour, the fit, just everything is amazing! ♥️♥️♥️
All your videos are inspiring to me. The opening goes through my head all the time. I’m not very good with a sewing machine. Seeing you hand stitched makes me want to creat very simple things for myself hand stitching. Thank you so much. 🥰
Hand stitching requires patience. At first, that's pretty much all it takes. An end (or start) to keep the stitches from pulling through, a way to draw lines on your fabric so you know where to stitch, and one type of stitch.
Over time, you'll learn several start/end techniques, and several different stitches to use for different occasions. But to start with, that's all you need. And all three are easy to find on the 'net.
I am a man that doesn't plan on making or wearing skirts or dresses but I find your content so good! I can only imagine the cutting anxiety, I am having trouble feeling comfortable with cutting into cheap muslin I picked up specifically for my mock up for a simple medieval knight's tunic costume. So im trying to find same old bedsheets or something to use instead to take the worry away lol. Can't imagine what anxiety id feel with expensive fabric!
I keep coming back to this video. It's so relaxing, and the end product is fantastic.
Wow, that suit looks great, fantastic job
This turned out fantastic! The thought and effort you put in really paid off!
Such a beautiful outfit, and the colour is lush, I love it 💚
miss v, this suit is lovely--it really, er, suits you!
Beautiful!
I was just admiring that wool online yesterday. It's so great to see it fashioned so beautifully. I'm totally jealous.
Oh, I love both the style of the walking suit and the colour! One day I will make my own. It's just so beautiful!
happy birthday! congrats on the new diggs! and the suit looks great!
This video was the perfect break from a not-so-perfect week. The green is beautiful.
Wow GORGEOUS! The green is lovely 😊.
What a delightful video and a GORGEOUS ensemble!
I love discovering new fabric Places! Thanks for the link to Dorr Mill!
I do love that jacket and the pattern is so nice for me. I also use their walking skirt pattern, and have made modifications to a copy to make it knee length. Very comfortable, and professional looking. Good for dress up days at work. I shall have to try the lovely waistcoat also.
This was a lot of fun to watch and I think you created a gorgeous outfit.
All 3 pieces look so great!
Seeing the drafted pattern come together.
Nice video. It is cool the way that each of these pieces can individually fit in with modern clothes. Love your work.
I need that waistcoat! Its gorgeous!! I've been on the lookout for a good vest pattern but like yourself haven't come across a good commercial one, and couldn't for the life of me remember where I'd seen the drafting of one.. luckily this video reminded me ^^
Thank you for awesome content!!
That suit is amazing! I would wear it like it was my actual job. Beautiful work!
I LOVE this!! Your pocket watch is gorgeous btw🥰
This was such a lovely video to watch. And the suit at the end is gorgeous.
Wow, such a cool video!! 👏👏 I love how each piece on its own looks fab with modern styling but together they look so authentic! Well done! 😊😊😊
SO. MUCH. WORK. AMAZING!
This is why I was very happy to find and follow you, because I related so hard to your "Spatial awareness" troubles and "Cutting anxiety" when cutting out something (or for me, anything) This was lovely to watch, I'm late, but closer to being able to finally make my own clothes, I can't wait!
So beautiful! I love the color!
What a beautiful dress.
Thank you so much for linking the patterns/draft you used. Im definitely making one of the vest and skirt combos now. :)
Its absolutely gorgeous! And I love the hat too
So enjoyed this video I watched it twice!
I love Dorr Mills! Getting their swatches is like a party - it is so hard to chose between their beautiful colors!
That looks sooooo good! Great work :)
I have been wanting to make this kind of getup myself this past year, but haven't been able to decide on design and colour scheme.. Your video actually pushed me towards a more concrete idea for I want for my walking suit! So thank you :D
Happy late Birthday! ! Beautiful suit!!!!
Beautiful outfit, and you can actually wear it in everyday life, and a belated happy birthday 🎂.
Great taste in fabrics
Oh that came out great!!!
My favorite part of brining a costume to life is being able to wear it out. :D
This outfit is phenomenal! And I didn't know you played violin! Double impressive 🙂😍
lovely ! congrats ! This is really elegant !
Well made Well done it nice to have garments that can be worn with modern also
Kudos for doing the welt pocket and meeting the challenge head on. Too many people become intimidated by going beyond basic sewing. I find it to be largely a psychological mental block. Most everyone is far more capable than they believe themselves to be.
I may very well buy black pinstripe tropical weight wool and create a similar outfit for the next Whitby Goth Weekend. Thinking to do my vest with contrasting black velvet for boung buttonholes.
This is so gorgeous! I adore 1890's fashion, so it warms my heart that it's been having A Moment.
Even Dorr's cabbage bins are expensive! I've found some lovely tidbits for some other projects, but oof.
SOOO BEAUTIFUL! 💚 I would totally wear all those clothes with my everyday wear! Btw. i feel you with heavily modifying vest patterns.. i used a free one from mood, but it didn't made it beyond the mock up state so far.. 😬
I've been looking into walking suits lately, and have been worried that they might not look good on me, but this outfit looks lovely. I picked up a coat off the road recently (that I plan to upcycle into a waist coat), and have bought fabric for a princess seam skirt. Thanks for the additional assurance
I love the stunning Victorian walking suit that you constructed! I especially enjoyed seeing you make three prototypes for the vest, each time making improvements until you got the correct fit. Ah, yes, the welt pocket … turned out lovely as well and how fun to be able to use your pocket watch! You mentioned that some people told you to use silk thread while others said to use polyester for sewing on the buttons; which did you end up using? TFS
I am a brand new subscriber and yes, I want notified each time you upload a video. Keep ‘em coming!
🐝🐝🐝
That’s a lovely outfit. That forest green is gorgeous on you. I too love a good waistcoat, it does wonders for every figure, and that looks great on you. How did you find the weight of the fabric in the end?
The fabric weight was fine! It might have been an issue with 5 yards in the skirt instead of 2.5, but this was quite comfortable.
I love this ensemble, you look wonderful! ive been wanting to make a vest from the keystone book myself. So far Ive made the trousers from the end of the book and a cape but the vest was past my skill level when I first tried it
Lovely garments. I will have to say I had the same exact ring and loved it. I lost mine Years ago when it fell off. :(
You look so great in this 😊😊😊
I love your content!!! Thank you for creating❤ btw I noticed we have the same machine!!!
it's green
and so beautiful...........
must. make.
You are such a creative force in such a tiny frame. I think that describes dynamite. 😉
Beauuuuuutifuuuuul
Beautyful!!!! My favorite part of making costumes...and clothing, is finishing details. I loooove making button holes and stuff like that.
My least favorite is cutting.
Cutting is sooo full of angst.
Like now, making a Winter coat.....My plan is to finaly use the beautyful, hand vowen wool I got from my hubbie.....his grand mother made it....I only have three meters....and well....angst. What IF something goes wrong?!?! I don't have any more, I can't get any more of that fabric....it's for ever gone once I start using it.
I have a perfect pattern for the project, allready made a wearable corderoid mockup.......but...well and so on.
The hubby tells me every day to DO it..I Still hesitate.
soo beautiful! Would love me one of these!
RATHER!! Pat-South Padre Island, Texas
Well done , Madam!!!! However I did see your ankles, on two occasions.! One should be very careful in future, ones reputation as a lady of culture could be besmirched. I loved the music. Please stay safe.
almost exactly a year later, and I'm about to make this exact outfit in this exact fabric---hope mine turns out as well as yours did! :)