Hi great video as normal the thing i still struggle with is the initial getting the correct depth as in this video your using a 13ft rod but the depth a few feet deeper do you just use the so how can you put on the stop knot when on your first cast you find the depth when the float reaches the surface itll obviously be longer then the rod so as you wind in dont you loose the depth or do you have to keep moving the stop knot until the float appears so it may take a number of casts?. Hope ive made sence
Easy start point is to set your 2 stop knots at the joint between the butt section and middle section, on the line that is running through the rod rings. Unless you're really familiar with the venue, this will give a knot depth of around 18-20ft on a 13ft rod, and a little deeper on a 14ft one. Yes, it will take a few casts to get it right. If your float doesn't appear, the knots need to be moved further away from the reel. If its showing too much then move them towards the reel. Putting on a bigger float body will also help create the vertical from bulk to float, and this shown in Matt's other video over on the Guru channel (#26 on the Bitesize playlist).
Unlikely to get a response from Matt - he's on his way back from Slovenia - but the loop-to-loop is the one I'd use. Pass the mainline loop through the shock-leader loop and the other end of the shock-leader through the mainline loop. Have the 2 loops about 40mm long in total and trim the tag ends tight.
Around 20ft, or 6m. This allows for a couple of turns of leader on the reel (say 5ft / 1.5m), the usable length of the rod above the reel (say 11ft / 3.3m) and the drop from rod tip to float before the cast (4ft / 1.2m). Matt was using a 4lb (0.20mm) mainline and explained the 8lbs (0.28mm) leader was there because of the possibilities of tangling the rig. The lighter mainline may have been used to reduce drag on the line because of the wind / tow scenario Matt decribed - left to right wind creating right to left undertow. It also provided stiffness in the majority of the rig which would cut down tangles in the side wind. There are 2 ways of setting up a slider rig with a leader..... 1. In the way described in the video, with a long shock-leader to a lighter mainline. The olivette needs to be locked onto the leader with the shot above and group of shot below. The set-up means the stop-knots would also be on the leader as well as the float. A great set-up when the depth is 20ft or shallower (Matt said the depth was 16ft). 2. Deeper swims sometimes need a different rig - one with a heavier mainline (normally 5lbs / 0.23mm or 6lbs / 0.25mm) to a much shorter leader. The heavier mainline would give the durability and reliability during the cast and retrieve, and the stop-knots (same breaking strain / diameter) would be tied onto the mainline. The leader needs to be only a metre long, and the olivette sits over the loop-to-loop knot connection between mainline and leader, again locked on with one shot above and a few below. The leader can be either normal mono or flourocarbon, and the olivette hides the 2 loops inside it's bore. The dropper shot are on the leader too, and it is finished off at the bottom end with either a swivel or a quick-change hooklength swivel. Because of the leader, and the distance of the olivette from the bottom swivel, shorter 6 or 8 inch hooklengths can be used. Another plus of the shorter leader is that the line below the bulk will be stiffer and less prone to tangles in the deeper water. The boom of shot below the olivette and the stiff line of the shorter leader keeps the hooklength away as it sinks. A video and description of this rig (#2) can be seen and heard in the GURU video Matt did on slider fishing at Damflask Reservoir, also just outside of Sheffield. TH-cam won't let me add a link.
It falls through the water more efficiently, and it sits better with the smaller shot below it. Rig dynamics #1. When casting, the bulk of the float (3g) and the heavier end of the olivette are together through the air. Rig dynamics #2. It moves the centre of gravity of the olivette away from the hook more. Reducing rig resistance. Rig dynamics #3. The hook, swivel, droppers, group of shot below the olivette and the olivette get progressively heavier. Rig dynamics #4. Put the simplicity, efficiency and dynamics together and the peformance of the rig is maximised.
@@christophersmith3338 There is a specific knot for the stop-knot. I'll try to explain it. Take a 10inch piece of line, the same diameter as the mainline is ok, and fold it in half. Hold this next to the mainline with the tag ends pointing towards the rod tip and wind one of the tag ends around the other 2 pieces of line 7 times (for luck). Pass the tag end back through the loop created when you folded the free piece of line over. Moisten and tighten slowly onto the mainline. The 2 tag ends should come out of the tightened knot in opposite directions, but should also stand away from the mainline. Trim the two tag ends to about 40mm / an inch and a half. Repeat for the second knot, either above or below the first. As Matt says in the video, put a small bead on the line between the stop-knots and the float. This will butt against the knots and prevent (heavens forbid) the float passing over the 2 knots, and 2 knots are more secure than one. There is another slider video Matt did, over on the Guru YT page, under the Bitesize playlist, that shows you how to tie it. Its Bitesize video #26 in the playlist, and the demo starts at 6:00 into it. It is probably better to watch this than try and follow my typed instructions, but I hope this helps. Like he says, practice makes perfect. YT won't let me add the link to the other video. Apologies on their behalf.
Proper angling, great video as always Matty 🎣
Hello Matt first thumb up is from the Netherlands.👍👍👍
Great Angler full of knowledge 👍🏻
When are the guru slider floats coming out ?
6:01 did you squoze them tightly?😂..great new addition to the oxford english dictionary. i must remember that word👍
Sooooo, when are the guru sliders coming out? Just saying what everyone’s bee thinking since Matt posted them on insta.
Hi great video as normal the thing i still struggle with is the initial getting the correct depth as in this video your using a 13ft rod but the depth a few feet deeper do you just use the so how can you put on the stop knot when on your first cast you find the depth when the float reaches the surface itll obviously be longer then the rod so as you wind in dont you loose the depth or do you have to keep moving the stop knot until the float appears so it may take a number of casts?. Hope ive made sence
Easy start point is to set your 2 stop knots at the joint between the butt section and middle section, on the line that is running through the rod rings. Unless you're really familiar with the venue, this will give a knot depth of around 18-20ft on a 13ft rod, and a little deeper on a 14ft one.
Yes, it will take a few casts to get it right. If your float doesn't appear, the knots need to be moved further away from the reel. If its showing too much then move them towards the reel. Putting on a bigger float body will also help create the vertical from bulk to float, and this shown in Matt's other video over on the Guru channel (#26 on the Bitesize playlist).
Ok thank you very much for your reply much appreciated.
Where can I get your slider floats please Matt
what knot are you using to connect the shocker to the main line please?
Unlikely to get a response from Matt - he's on his way back from Slovenia - but the loop-to-loop is the one I'd use.
Pass the mainline loop through the shock-leader loop and the other end of the shock-leader through the mainline loop. Have the 2 loops about 40mm long in total and trim the tag ends tight.
How long was the shock leader was the slider on the shock leader
Around 20ft, or 6m. This allows for a couple of turns of leader on the reel (say 5ft / 1.5m), the usable length of the rod above the reel (say 11ft / 3.3m) and the drop from rod tip to float before the cast (4ft / 1.2m). Matt was using a 4lb (0.20mm) mainline and explained the 8lbs (0.28mm) leader was there because of the possibilities of tangling the rig. The lighter mainline may have been used to reduce drag on the line because of the wind / tow scenario Matt decribed - left to right wind creating right to left undertow. It also provided stiffness in the majority of the rig which would cut down tangles in the side wind.
There are 2 ways of setting up a slider rig with a leader.....
1. In the way described in the video, with a long shock-leader to a lighter mainline. The olivette needs to be locked onto the leader with the shot above and group of shot below. The set-up means the stop-knots would also be on the leader as well as the float. A great set-up when the depth is 20ft or shallower (Matt said the depth was 16ft).
2. Deeper swims sometimes need a different rig - one with a heavier mainline (normally 5lbs / 0.23mm or 6lbs / 0.25mm) to a much shorter leader. The heavier mainline would give the durability and reliability during the cast and retrieve, and the stop-knots (same breaking strain / diameter) would be tied onto the mainline.
The leader needs to be only a metre long, and the olivette sits over the loop-to-loop knot connection between mainline and leader, again locked on with one shot above and a few below. The leader can be either normal mono or flourocarbon, and the olivette hides the 2 loops inside it's bore. The dropper shot are on the leader too, and it is finished off at the bottom end with either a swivel or a quick-change hooklength swivel.
Because of the leader, and the distance of the olivette from the bottom swivel, shorter 6 or 8 inch hooklengths can be used. Another plus of the shorter leader is that the line below the bulk will be stiffer and less prone to tangles in the deeper water. The boom of shot below the olivette and the stiff line of the shorter leader keeps the hooklength away as it sinks.
A video and description of this rig (#2) can be seen and heard in the GURU video Matt did on slider fishing at Damflask Reservoir, also just outside of Sheffield. TH-cam won't let me add a link.
@@stevemccrory9130 th-cam.com/video/Eqg8y7Z9ErM/w-d-xo.html
@@stevemccrory9130 th-cam.com/video/Eqg8y7Z9ErM/w-d-xo.html
Great video but I’m a little confused. 14:50, you say that it certainly DOESNT help?? Why use it then?
Ye you tell by they way he said it that he said it wrong. Think he meant to say it certainly helps.
Why have the Olivette upside down?
I thought that 🤔 will be a valid reason with MG !
It falls through the water more efficiently, and it sits better with the smaller shot below it. Rig dynamics #1.
When casting, the bulk of the float (3g) and the heavier end of the olivette are together through the air. Rig dynamics #2.
It moves the centre of gravity of the olivette away from the hook more. Reducing rig resistance. Rig dynamics #3.
The hook, swivel, droppers, group of shot below the olivette and the olivette get progressively heavier. Rig dynamics #4.
Put the simplicity, efficiency and dynamics together and the peformance of the rig is maximised.
@@stevemccrory9130 thanks Steve well explained 👍🏻just one question. The slider knot double loop overhang knot and best gauge of line ?
@@christophersmith3338 There is a specific knot for the stop-knot. I'll try to explain it.
Take a 10inch piece of line, the same diameter as the mainline is ok, and fold it in half. Hold this next to the mainline with the tag ends pointing towards the rod tip and wind one of the tag ends around the other 2 pieces of line 7 times (for luck). Pass the tag end back through the loop created when you folded the free piece of line over. Moisten and tighten slowly onto the mainline. The 2 tag ends should come out of the tightened knot in opposite directions, but should also stand away from the mainline. Trim the two tag ends to about 40mm / an inch and a half. Repeat for the second knot, either above or below the first. As Matt says in the video, put a small bead on the line between the stop-knots and the float. This will butt against the knots and prevent (heavens forbid) the float passing over the 2 knots, and 2 knots are more secure than one.
There is another slider video Matt did, over on the Guru YT page, under the Bitesize playlist, that shows you how to tie it. Its Bitesize video #26 in the playlist, and the demo starts at 6:00 into it. It is probably better to watch this than try and follow my typed instructions, but I hope this helps. Like he says, practice makes perfect.
YT won't let me add the link to the other video. Apologies on their behalf.
@@stevemccrory9130 great info again Steve. Yes I do recall that video think it’s the one at Rudyard. I will give it a watch 👍🏻
Squoze… hmmm 👍
Yorkshire. Nuff said.
@@stevemccrory9130 😆