I have been looking at epoxy/polyaspartic floors for several years now. I do not know Tim nor do I know his team. I started my business last year and was sold on one day floors. If you speak to resinous experts as opposed to product pushers, you will find that Tim's way of installing these floors is the way to go. His videos are very helpful and he explains why he chooses an epoxy basecoat with a poyaspartic top coat. Since switching to his way of installing, I have had no issues plus my floors are consistent and beautiful. It plainly and simply allows you to do a better job for your customers.
@@toadshrm Polyaspartic floors are being pushed and sold as one day floors. I said Tim's way of installing resinous floors is the way to go (2 day floors). I think you misunderstood.
I know this is an older video but I thought I’d shoot my question anyways. Hopefully you guys see it. I’m wondering do the flakes add enough grip? Or should sand be added? If so when exactly does the sand get broadcasted?? Thank you
Hey! I think the flakes add enough but it is personal preference. For customers that want more grip than normal we will add shark grip from Sherwin into the top coat.
This is how my floors were done and I totally recommend everyone else to hire cus its not easy. Don't ever get that home depot or lowes junk either lol. If u hire someone and they want to pressure wash vs grind, turn them away immediately!!!!
This video is excellent. 2 questions though. If the concrete has sawn cut control joints how do you avoid filling them while doing the rest of the floor and what do you use to fill them after the the floor is done (assuming you don’t want the floor seamless which I don’t ) Also, can you share what supplier you use ?
Yes… if we switch to a fast cure primer. Here is an explanation: Polyurea vs. Epoxy - This Changed Everything for Garage Floors th-cam.com/video/FcZMx59p-PE/w-d-xo.html
Hello, great video! We are a new company that specializes in the epoxy/flake Polyaspartic systems and we are doing our first small driveway. I was told to do a MVB epoxy, then put a tinted polyaspartic, flaking into that, followed up with a polyaspartic clear topcoat. Does that sound right? or? Thanks : )
Tim & DCVA Team - Thanks for coming out to Eden, NC and being a major contributor to our garage overhaul. Everyone comments on the floor and say it’s the best they’ve ever seen. Avoid DIY Kits and call Tim DCVA!!
Question: Setting the application of an "epoxy vapor barrier" aside for one moment, and ONLY looking at an epoxy base coat vs an aspartic base coat, and assuming an installer is a pro at handling either of these, is there any advantage of one vs the other? Comparing these two BASE COAT choices (epoxy vs aspartic), it seems that all the pros and cons I have found relate to the convenience of the installer. Epoxy sets up slower, aspartic faster. Epoxy requires warmer application temps than aspartic. Etc. It seems that aspartic has faster setup and is more forgiving temp-wise, but if the installation team is familiar with it, shouldn't it be okay? So, if all conditions are perfect for each type of base coat, and the installer is very experienced with either, which delivers a better floor generally? Is one outstanding over the other? Or, do they deliver about the same results and it just comes down to installer details and the applied product's formulation?
Great video mate. If using a water based epoxy , can you hose the floor down after the grind and vacuum to ensure all loose material has been removed? Thank you 🙏
So you don’t go to the home and give an estimate you do all quotes by text or email? What if there are cracks or some kind of damage to the concrete do you fix those or just put the epoxy down?
Hey there! I run a epoxy coating company as well. would you share where you source your materials from? I feel like I am currently paying too much for polyaspartic from our supplier (280/kit ~ 160sqft)
Different manufacturers recommend different things. Most vapor barriers that hold down 20lbs/ft are supposed to go down @ 100ft/gallon. This particular product holds down 8lbs, and the manufacturer recommends 160ft/gallon.
@@TimDCVAHi how many clear top coats do you put over the flakes? Enough to fill in all the voids plus have a smooth finish like say 2mm over the flakes?
Hi Tim. Really enjoyed your videos and the process you use. I am building a new home near Grand Rapids Michigan (Grand Haven - zip code 49417). What is the best way to find a quality installer like you? You guys come out to Michigan 😉 Also is it good to finish the garage floor before it is used at all or does it have to cure for xx months before coating? Thanks
Hi! I love that area. I spent a few days there a few years ago. Sorry we don’t go that far… unless it’s a really big garage. Ha. I would wait until construction is finished on your home. That will give it a few months to cure. Don’t cover it with anything either… that will allow it to breathe so (hopefully) the moisture will all evaporate out of it.
We do occasionally work in RDU. It just depends on the project. We haven’t worked in MB before… but we would consider it depending on the project. We spend a lot of time in Surfside during the summer anyways. 👍🏻 Fill out this form if you want to check with us about getting a quote. www.decorativeconcreteofvirginia.com/contact-us
you can save and reuse them but personally i dont like doing that because my box of flakes become full of "crumbs". it almost looks like he is reusing scrapped flakes in this video because when he shows close up on the floor you dont see very many full flakes, they are mostly all little tiny crumbs. I reclaim flakes before i scrape and then the scraps get thrown away keeping my box full of fresh, full size flakes. the main issue with crumbs is that they end up in the primer and dont allow full size flakes to stick so you end up with a weird consistency of full size flakes and crumbs. most customers wouldn't know the difference but i personally dont like how it looks full of crumbs and i instantly noticed his bucket full of them.
@BeachLookingGuy this blend of flakes varies in size from mostly 1/16” to a few 1/4” flakes. If you would have watched the full video, you would have seen a close up and description of that.
Are epoxy floors slippery when wet ? When the particles are added ( broadcast to rejection) does it make the finished floor hard to clean ( because of the rough surface texture) ?
why do you end where the garage door comes down rather than over the edge or covering to the threshold gap? I had mine coated to the threshold gap because you are rolling over the edge with your car all the time and you are leaving the possibility of separation at the edge especially if there is a higher lip.
I’ve never had any issues with the edge separating from the concrete. We grind a straight line under the door, which recesses the coating a little below the exterior concrete anyways. Also… i don’t like the way the interior floor looks outside when the garage door is down. It rarely matches the decor of a house.
I've noticed some local installers use epoxy and some use polyurea base coats, and I've been trying to figure out which installer to go with. One said my floor was 3.25% moisture, so I should use epoxy. Another said that's not enough moisture to need epoxy or a vapor barrier, so I should use poly. I think obviously each company just has their own reasons to use each. And then a couple installers even advertise that they use 100% polyaspartic (for base and top coats), vs. all the other installers that advertise polyaspartic, but it's only polyaspartic for the top coat, and polyurea for a base. Are polyurea and polyaspartic really different?
3.25% isn't an accurate measurement of vapor. Thats probably from one of those meters that you just set on the surface. They aren't intended to be used as an official moisture test...they are supposed to be used as a preliminary test to find trouble spots so that you can drill a hole and drop probes in to get a real reading. www.wagnermeters.com/shop/c555-handheld-concrete-moisture-meter-kit/ The problem with moisture in concrete is that, unless you know that you have a vapor barrier under the concrete, the amount of moisture in the concrete can change over time. So just because its low now doesn't mean it will be low the next time you measure it. Polyurea and Polyaspartic coatings are pretty similar...but polyurea can only be used as a base because it turns yellow over time. It costs less than polyaspartic which is why people use it. Both are pretty flexible. Both are also known for not bonding that well to concrete. I've heard that manufacturers have made some advancements to combat that though. I don't think there is much benefit to using poly as a primer. I personally prefer to use a vapor barrier epoxy with a polyaspartic top coat. It eliminates the moisture issue, and you still have a flexible coating because of the poly top coat.
@@TimDCVA Thanks a lot! Yes, the reading was just from a meter placed on the ground. And I think of all the companies I got a quote from, which were all the most popular ones in the area, any that did a moisture reading used the same method. I assume none would drill down in someone's concrete unless/until they came back to do the actual job. One company mentions using a moisture barrier if needed, so I guess that's when they would decide. The house is less than 6 years old if that matters. But even if I don't have a good reading of the moisture, it sounds like you recommend an epoxy basecoat regardless of moisture. Most of the companies I got quotes from use a poly base instead of epoxy. Is that just so they can get in and out in 1 day? Or so they can advertise that their newer poly technology is better than epoxy? Speaking of job time, anything wrong with quick-cure epoxy that allows 1-day jobs? One youtuber uses that. My 3-car garage has real wood paneling on the walls, and for some odd reason, half of it has the paneling down to the floor, but on the other half, it only goes down to a few inches above the floor, with cinder block showing. Any idea why? When I asked about coating a few inches up the walls, most of the installers I got quotes from seemed slightly unsure about how, or whether to do this or not. One said I shouldn't coat the wood, as it wouldn't stick well, and wouldn't be warrantied. What do you think?
these people are over complicating it for you, I do these floors full time with Polyurea for 5 years now as a solo worker and it's not an issue. I never do anything "vapor" wise and i grind half as much as these big industrial machines do. I do up to 900sqft in one day start to finish with polyurea by myself and never have issues or concerns of moisture. the biggest downside with polyurea is you need to use a different process because it dries so fast, so if you're not experienced with it and dont have the right process it will not be good.
@@TimDCVA well of course. But i think another factor is how old the concrete is and the condition. I see a lot of different concrete, some grind much easier than other and create a lot of dust. I do think in some cases concrete is going to fall apart regardless of the prep for the coating.
In your previous video you claimed that your epoxy primer could prevent up to 20 lbs of water vapour...in this one you said 8lb...am I mistaken or is there some other discrepancy which you failed to clarify? thanks...also, enjoy the tunes!
Hey Tim, Thank you so much for your videos they really help me a lot in my newly established epoxy business. I was battling for a while on the epoxy vs polyurea base coat issue and while searching on Google polyurea always came up as the better solution pitched by mostly franchises. However when digging deeper and calling up companies that have been in the space for a while, they still swear by epoxy mainly because it creates a stronger bond during the curing process. Your video just confirmed to go with the 2 day install. I have one question. Do you guys grind an opening/line where the epoxy ends below the garage door for extra anchorage and protection?
Thanks. That’s awesome to hear. I’m glad they’ve been helpful. Whenever we are doing a garage floor, we will take a straight 2x4 and place it in the middle of where the door lands. Then we will take our hand grinder and run it up against the board so that it grinds a perfectly straight line. The hand grinder is also more aggressive so it cuts the concrete lower than the unground concrete, which creates a key way for the epoxy to stop in.
Nice video! I saw your guys alway let those flakes stay there over night. I also see there are one day kits on the market. I just wonder if there is a quality difference between these two type of products
Thanks! I made a video that explains my preference here: Epoxy, Polyurea or Polyaspartic : Which is the BEST garage floor coating? th-cam.com/video/-q8YUWBxk3E/w-d-xo.html
hello i have a few questions, my garage floor which was just painted concrete is wrecked. the paint is chipping and crumbling from water damage and other unsightly stains, like rust, etc. the problem is i have my water heater in the garage. do most companies like your company remove the water heater properly so the entire garage floor can be done properly? this is a dilema I'm encountering. it would make things so much easier if its a one stop shop to clear the garage to make it ready for the new flooring. i appreciate any feedback or advice. Thank you
I don’t think its that slippery under normal use when its wet. If let kids run across it while it’s wet, then they might slip… but I don’t think it’s slippery if you are just walking in and out to your car. We can add grit to the top coat if it is a concern.
Afternoon Tim, I live on the Eastern Shore of Va and have a 28 x 32 garage with raw concrete never treated or painted. We built it in 2001 and have been holding off coating the floor due to all the horror stories about epoxy coatings. Looking for a rough idea on cost to get it done. And I guess my next question is do you service my area 23350. Thanks! Dave
Hey Dave. I love the eastern shore. I’m not sure if we’d take that on or not. Would you mind filling this out (including photos) and I can let you know? www.decorativeconcreteofvirginia.com/contact-us
Hi. You’re probably a little too far away for us… but we do occasionally work up there depending on the job. If you want to check, feel free to fill out the contact form/questionnaire on our site and we can let you know for sure.
I already have an online course for how to do it. You can check it out here: decorativeconcreteschool.teachable.com We are in Virginia… so nothing in SC.
I love your stuff - Do you have a product list/links for the Epoxy, Polyaspartic top coat, and the chips for us DIYers? I'd rather not use a pre-made kit that doesn't take advantage of your wonderful advice. I'm way too far to hire you :)
I have been looking at epoxy/polyaspartic floors for several years now. I do not know Tim nor do I know his team. I started my business last year and was sold on one day floors. If you speak to resinous experts as opposed to product pushers, you will find that Tim's way of installing these floors is the way to go. His videos are very helpful and he explains why he chooses an epoxy basecoat with a poyaspartic top coat. Since switching to his way of installing, I have had no issues plus my floors are consistent and beautiful. It plainly and simply allows you to do a better job for your customers.
Yes, got this combo. It’s the correct install!
Hmm it’s not a one day floor. Two day install
@@toadshrm Polyaspartic floors are being pushed and sold as one day floors. I said Tim's way of installing resinous floors is the way to go (2 day floors). I think you misunderstood.
Thank you! I've been dying to see how your prep goes in more detail.
👍🏻👍🏻 I usually skip showing the prep because it’s kind of boring. Haha.
Josh Jones! Ha Ha That where I learned it! Josh is a great resource! The multi color multi size looks great! Nice Job Tim!
Yeah he really is a good resource.
Thanks!
Please help I need to get better,just started doing garage floor ,I have problems leaving roller marks and apply clear coat,help me
Is this for a new business you started? If so, you should check this out:
decorativeconcreteschool.teachable.com
man i just did a silver/ grey sealer today it turned out pretty good, I am going to make a youtube video about it too
Nice. 👍🏻
I know this is an older video but I thought I’d shoot my question anyways. Hopefully you guys see it. I’m wondering do the flakes add enough grip? Or should sand be added? If so when exactly does the sand get broadcasted?? Thank you
Hey! I think the flakes add enough but it is personal preference. For customers that want more grip than normal we will add shark grip from Sherwin into the top coat.
@@TimDCVA thank you for the response! We are newly adding this scope of work so I was unsure. 🙏
This is how my floors were done and I totally recommend everyone else to hire cus its not easy. Don't ever get that home depot or lowes junk either lol. If u hire someone and they want to pressure wash vs grind, turn them away immediately!!!!
This video is excellent. 2 questions though. If the concrete has sawn cut control joints how do you avoid filling them while doing the rest of the floor and what do you use to fill them after the the floor is done (assuming you don’t want the floor seamless which I don’t )
Also, can you share what supplier you use ?
Hi can the job be done in a single day instead of two days?
Yes… if we switch to a fast cure primer. Here is an explanation:
Polyurea vs. Epoxy - This Changed Everything for Garage Floors
th-cam.com/video/FcZMx59p-PE/w-d-xo.html
That’s Awesome Tim. Next time you want a working holiday to Australia 👍🏼 So hard to get good contractors who care about the job.
That sounds awesome. How big is the project? Ha.
@@TimDCVA Small :| just an average size double garage. They don’t make them big here.
Haha.
How do you stay busy? Do you compete with the Wise ?
Tim, I live in Naples, Florida. Is it possible to say approximately how much it should cost me to do a two car garage and a one car car garage?
Hello, great video! We are a new company that specializes in the epoxy/flake Polyaspartic systems and we are doing our first small driveway. I was told to do a MVB epoxy, then put a tinted polyaspartic, flaking into that, followed up with a polyaspartic clear topcoat. Does that sound right? or? Thanks : )
What products do you use?
Tim & DCVA Team - Thanks for coming out to Eden, NC and being a major contributor to our garage overhaul. Everyone comments on the floor and say it’s the best they’ve ever seen. Avoid DIY Kits and call Tim DCVA!!
Thanks Kelly! We appreciate you letting us do the job.
@@TimDCVADo you travel to NC? I’m looking to get this done as well.
Why are you guys using a regular shop vac? I bought it had to be a hepa thing. Great looking work!
Awesome Work!👌
I’ve done many garage floors myself here in South FL.🌴
Can you recommend someone in the Tampa Bay Area who uses this method?
Can this product be applied in 1 day
Do I need to grind a new concrete slab?
Yes. You need to grind it to make the concrete rough so the coating can bond to it.
Question: Setting the application of an "epoxy vapor barrier" aside for one moment, and ONLY looking at an epoxy base coat vs an aspartic base coat, and assuming an installer is a pro at handling either of these, is there any advantage of one vs the other?
Comparing these two BASE COAT choices (epoxy vs aspartic), it seems that all the pros and cons I have found relate to the convenience of the installer. Epoxy sets up slower, aspartic faster. Epoxy requires warmer application temps than aspartic. Etc. It seems that aspartic has faster setup and is more forgiving temp-wise, but if the installation team is familiar with it, shouldn't it be okay?
So, if all conditions are perfect for each type of base coat, and the installer is very experienced with either, which delivers a better floor generally? Is one outstanding over the other? Or, do they deliver about the same results and it just comes down to installer details and the applied product's formulation?
Sweet new van 🚐🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Thanks!
Great video mate.
If using a water based epoxy , can you hose the floor down after the grind and vacuum to ensure all loose material has been removed?
Thank you 🙏
What’s the vaccuum? Dewalt hepa? What size, specs?
Have you met anyone in Austin,TX area that follows the same process as you? I like your method! Great video, thank you!!
Your work was great. How can I order flake? I live in Iran. Is it possible to help me in this matter?
So you don’t go to the home and give an estimate you do all quotes by text or email? What if there are cracks or some kind of damage to the concrete do you fix those or just put the epoxy down?
Hey there! I run a epoxy coating company as well. would you share where you source your materials from? I feel like I am currently paying too much for polyaspartic from our supplier (280/kit ~ 160sqft)
2:58 looking into having garage done in the Tricies Tn Area. Do you know any reliable companies in this area?
I live in Raleigh where can I get that product?
What are your thoughts doing the whole job in one day? Some contractors offering that kind of service
Can the flakes be deleted. They are camouflage for dropped parts. That makes them a deal killer. Thanks and take care.
How much that's cost double garage vinyl flakes garage epoxy?
Any thoughts on a double broadcast Quartz system?
How long does it last?
What is the name of the product your using?
Love the way you get it done man I live in Gainesville Virginia near Manassas. How do I get a quote from you?
Thank you
John
Thank you!
The best way to get a quote is to fill out the contact form on my webpage. www.decorativeconcreteofvirginia.com/contact-us
Correct me if I’m wrong but aren’t moisture vapor barriers supposed to be installed at 16 mil?
Different manufacturers recommend different things.
Most vapor barriers that hold down 20lbs/ft are supposed to go down @ 100ft/gallon.
This particular product holds down 8lbs, and the manufacturer recommends 160ft/gallon.
any way to get a spec sheet for materials you use?
Can you do this in a patio ( the Same process)
Yes you can but a cementious overlay would be more appropriate.
Wow another great one Tim! I agree, the varied chip size makes a big difference. Looks a lot more natural. Haven’t seen that before. Good job!
Thanks!
@@TimDCVA hi Tim I live in Virginia myself and would like to know where I can purchase these products.
? Thanks
@@TimDCVAHi how many clear top coats do you put over the flakes?
Enough to fill in all the voids plus have a smooth finish like say 2mm over the flakes?
I cover that in my course. decorativeconcreteschool.com
We usually do one coat because I like the light texture it leaves behind.
Is there a bubble popping step with this process?
No. We don’t usually have any bubbles.
Hi Tim. Really enjoyed your videos and the process you use.
I am building a new home near Grand Rapids Michigan (Grand Haven - zip code 49417).
What is the best way to find a quality installer like you? You guys come out to Michigan 😉
Also is it good to finish the garage floor before it is used at all or does it have to cure for xx months before coating?
Thanks
Hi!
I love that area. I spent a few days there a few years ago.
Sorry we don’t go that far… unless it’s a really big garage. Ha.
I would wait until construction is finished on your home. That will give it a few months to cure. Don’t cover it with anything either… that will allow it to breathe so (hopefully) the moisture will all evaporate out of it.
@TimDCVA Thanks. I found a place called Decorative Concrete Redources. Is it a franchise or a coincidence?
Resources not redources 😉
Coincidence. 👍🏻
I use a especial formulated sealer for the chips for the first coat then I use a water-based urethane for the top coat
how much a square foot?
How long it stay good without maintenance ?
A long time. I was just at a garage that we did 15 years ago and it still looked good.
Great videos. I'm in south Florida. How can I get info on your products?
Thanks! We use 100% solids epoxy with 90% solids polyaspartic. Most installers can probably get similar products.
What is that chip blend! It looks amazing. Would love to know how you go it.
Why don't you install the floor all the way to the edge of the garage floor? Looks like you stop it at the inside edge of the garage door?
How many miles does it have on it?
Hi Tim, would you do a deck off condo at North Mrytle beach, 4th floor on the beach? Do you also travel to Raleigh Nc
Thank you !
We do occasionally work in RDU. It just depends on the project.
We haven’t worked in MB before… but we would consider it depending on the project. We spend a lot of time in Surfside during the summer anyways. 👍🏻
Fill out this form if you want to check with us about getting a quote.
www.decorativeconcreteofvirginia.com/contact-us
Is it a good Idea to use epoxy instead of tiles in residential living rooms? I mean is it safe to drag furniture on epoxy?
We do epoxy basements all the time… but you shouldn’t drag furniture on any type of floor.
What's the name or brand of chip mix??
Shale from Torginol
Great video! When you scrape the excess chips off the second day, are you able to reuse them?
you can save and reuse them but personally i dont like doing that because my box of flakes become full of "crumbs". it almost looks like he is reusing scrapped flakes in this video because when he shows close up on the floor you dont see very many full flakes, they are mostly all little tiny crumbs. I reclaim flakes before i scrape and then the scraps get thrown away keeping my box full of fresh, full size flakes.
the main issue with crumbs is that they end up in the primer and dont allow full size flakes to stick so you end up with a weird consistency of full size flakes and crumbs. most customers wouldn't know the difference but i personally dont like how it looks full of crumbs and i instantly noticed his bucket full of them.
@BeachLookingGuy
this blend of flakes varies in size from mostly 1/16” to a few 1/4” flakes.
If you would have watched the full video, you would have seen a close up and description of that.
Are epoxy floors slippery when wet ? When the particles are added ( broadcast to rejection) does it make the finished floor hard to clean ( because of the rough surface texture) ?
At full rejection put your top coat down around 120 - 130 square feet per gallon
@@Deanmartell Thank you.
In another vdeo, I think that you mentioned a moisture vapor barrier epoxy that resisted 20 pounds of moisture vapor. What was that video and product?
How well would this work on a 1,800 sqft garage?
What epoxy primer are you using? Would love to buy some for my garage
These floors are beautiful! Are you able to reuse the chips you scrape off?
Yes we can reuse them.
@@TimDCVA Nice! One day I would like to have my garage floor done. Hopefully I can find someone in my area that does a great a job as you guys do.
Is there a link to where I can buy the polyurea?
why do you end where the garage door comes down rather than over the edge or covering to the threshold gap? I had mine coated to the threshold gap because you are rolling over the edge with your car all the time and you are leaving the possibility of separation at the edge especially if there is a higher lip.
I’ve never had any issues with the edge separating from the concrete.
We grind a straight line under the door, which recesses the coating a little below the exterior concrete anyways.
Also… i don’t like the way the interior floor looks outside when the garage door is down. It rarely matches the decor of a house.
I've noticed some local installers use epoxy and some use polyurea base coats, and I've been trying to figure out which installer to go with. One said my floor was 3.25% moisture, so I should use epoxy. Another said that's not enough moisture to need epoxy or a vapor barrier, so I should use poly. I think obviously each company just has their own reasons to use each.
And then a couple installers even advertise that they use 100% polyaspartic (for base and top coats), vs. all the other installers that advertise polyaspartic, but it's only polyaspartic for the top coat, and polyurea for a base. Are polyurea and polyaspartic really different?
3.25% isn't an accurate measurement of vapor. Thats probably from one of those meters that you just set on the surface. They aren't intended to be used as an official moisture test...they are supposed to be used as a preliminary test to find trouble spots so that you can drill a hole and drop probes in to get a real reading.
www.wagnermeters.com/shop/c555-handheld-concrete-moisture-meter-kit/
The problem with moisture in concrete is that, unless you know that you have a vapor barrier under the concrete, the amount of moisture in the concrete can change over time. So just because its low now doesn't mean it will be low the next time you measure it.
Polyurea and Polyaspartic coatings are pretty similar...but polyurea can only be used as a base because it turns yellow over time. It costs less than polyaspartic which is why people use it. Both are pretty flexible. Both are also known for not bonding that well to concrete. I've heard that manufacturers have made some advancements to combat that though.
I don't think there is much benefit to using poly as a primer. I personally prefer to use a vapor barrier epoxy with a polyaspartic top coat. It eliminates the moisture issue, and you still have a flexible coating because of the poly top coat.
@@TimDCVA Thanks a lot!
Yes, the reading was just from a meter placed on the ground. And I think of all the companies I got a quote from, which were all the most popular ones in the area, any that did a moisture reading used the same method. I assume none would drill down in someone's concrete unless/until they came back to do the actual job. One company mentions using a moisture barrier if needed, so I guess that's when they would decide. The house is less than 6 years old if that matters.
But even if I don't have a good reading of the moisture, it sounds like you recommend an epoxy basecoat regardless of moisture. Most of the companies I got quotes from use a poly base instead of epoxy. Is that just so they can get in and out in 1 day? Or so they can advertise that their newer poly technology is better than epoxy? Speaking of job time, anything wrong with quick-cure epoxy that allows 1-day jobs? One youtuber uses that.
My 3-car garage has real wood paneling on the walls, and for some odd reason, half of it has the paneling down to the floor, but on the other half, it only goes down to a few inches above the floor, with cinder block showing. Any idea why? When I asked about coating a few inches up the walls, most of the installers I got quotes from seemed slightly unsure about how, or whether to do this or not. One said I shouldn't coat the wood, as it wouldn't stick well, and wouldn't be warrantied. What do you think?
these people are over complicating it for you, I do these floors full time with Polyurea for 5 years now as a solo worker and it's not an issue. I never do anything "vapor" wise and i grind half as much as these big industrial machines do. I do up to 900sqft in one day start to finish with polyurea by myself and never have issues or concerns of moisture.
the biggest downside with polyurea is you need to use a different process because it dries so fast, so if you're not experienced with it and dont have the right process it will not be good.
We’ve taken up failed coatings for the past 20 years and it’s always because of moisture or lack of prep.
@@TimDCVA well of course. But i think another factor is how old the concrete is and the condition. I see a lot of different concrete, some grind much easier than other and create a lot of dust. I do think in some cases concrete is going to fall apart regardless of the prep for the coating.
How much to do an 18' x 20' garage?
In your previous video you claimed that your epoxy primer could prevent up to 20 lbs of water vapour...in this one you said 8lb...am I mistaken or is there some other discrepancy which you failed to clarify? thanks...also, enjoy the tunes!
Hey Tim,
Thank you so much for your videos they really help me a lot in my newly established epoxy business.
I was battling for a while on the epoxy vs polyurea base coat issue and while searching on Google polyurea always came up as the better solution pitched by mostly franchises. However when digging deeper and calling up companies that have been in the space for a while, they still swear by epoxy mainly because it creates a stronger bond during the curing process. Your video just confirmed to go with the 2 day install.
I have one question. Do you guys grind an opening/line where the epoxy ends below the garage door for extra anchorage and protection?
Thanks. That’s awesome to hear. I’m glad they’ve been helpful.
Whenever we are doing a garage floor, we will take a straight 2x4 and place it in the middle of where the door lands. Then we will take our hand grinder and run it up against the board so that it grinds a perfectly straight line. The hand grinder is also more aggressive so it cuts the concrete lower than the unground concrete, which creates a key way for the epoxy to stop in.
Can you apply the same material to a 3” to 4” outing above the floor?
Could use a quote for two-car oversized garage ~600 sqft. in SE PA.
i know you guys are based in VA but would you come up to CT for someone in the military?
Maybe… just depends on the season & size of the job. Contact us through our website and we can let you know. 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice video! I saw your guys alway let those flakes stay there over night. I also see there are one day kits on the market. I just wonder if there is a quality difference between these two type of products
Thanks!
I made a video that explains my preference here:
Epoxy, Polyurea or Polyaspartic : Which is the BEST garage floor coating?
th-cam.com/video/-q8YUWBxk3E/w-d-xo.html
Too bad you aren’t closer to MI. This looks great. What would something like this cost for 850sqft?
Thanks!
Probably around $5.50-$6 per foot.
I'm near Detroit, I used TruTech Coatings for my garage. Try then.
hello i have a few questions, my garage floor which was just painted concrete is wrecked. the paint is chipping and crumbling from water damage and other unsightly stains, like rust, etc. the problem is i have my water heater in the garage. do most companies like your company remove the water heater properly so the entire garage floor can be done properly? this is a dilema I'm encountering. it would make things so much easier if its a one stop shop to clear the garage to make it ready for the new flooring. i appreciate any feedback or advice. Thank you
You can hand grind and brush cut in around the water heater. Prep is not as critical in low traffic areas.
Hi
looks fantastic, great job, keep doing that, the thing is the people they don't want to pay for the good work as you are doing it
'congratulations
In Europe we dont need moisture barier becouse we have one built in homes/garages 1-concrete 2-Xps/Styrofoam 3. vaporbarier 4. finish Concrete
Any aluminum flakes? I think that would look nice and shiny.
How slippery the floor gets when is wet ......... what could you add to prevent that?
anti slip broadcasted just like the flake after the final top coat. its like clear sand texture
I don’t think its that slippery under normal use when its wet. If let kids run across it while it’s wet, then they might slip… but I don’t think it’s slippery if you are just walking in and out to your car.
We can add grit to the top coat if it is a concern.
Afternoon Tim, I live on the Eastern Shore of Va and have a 28 x 32 garage with raw concrete never treated or painted. We built it in 2001 and have been holding off coating the floor due to all the horror stories about epoxy coatings. Looking for a rough idea on cost to get it done. And I guess my next question is do you service my area 23350. Thanks! Dave
Hey Dave. I love the eastern shore. I’m not sure if we’d take that on or not.
Would you mind filling this out (including photos) and I can let you know?
www.decorativeconcreteofvirginia.com/contact-us
What grit do you grind at?
30/40
@@TimDCVA what roller nap size do you use?
Your chip comes with a recommended color ,it comes down to the prep of the floor ,it's not hard if you know what your doing
You guys want to come to Kenly NC? ;)
How many times do I have to say that's not epoxy floor is flakes floor why because u don't see that epoxy at all because is covered by flakes.
Loved watching and learning your process. I trust your business from watching your videos. Do you provide service for Northern VA, Burke?
Hi. You’re probably a little too far away for us… but we do occasionally work up there depending on the job. If you want to check, feel free to fill out the contact form/questionnaire on our site and we can let you know for sure.
Thanks!
@@TimDCVA 1:16
I was working for a day does this terrible boss can you a class on how to do this and start a business during it? Also do you have businesses in SC?
I already have an online course for how to do it. You can check it out here:
decorativeconcreteschool.teachable.com
We are in Virginia… so nothing in SC.
I love your stuff - Do you have a product list/links for the Epoxy, Polyaspartic top coat, and the chips for us DIYers? I'd rather not use a pre-made kit that doesn't take advantage of your wonderful advice. I'm way too far to hire you :)
Looks awesome !!!
Is this slippery when wet? Also, can you use this method outdoors?
I don’t think it’s that slippery. Yes we can use this outdoors.
great work but gar floor is best when coat covers entire slab under door
Tim - I’m in Fauquier Co Va and I just sent a request for quote for my 2.5 car garage so fingers crossed that you may want to provide me a quote!
Great video and also very insightful. Thanks! If you really like to travel I have another one for you...2,400 sq ft hobby/shop. Thanks Again
Thanks!
Where do you live?
@@TimDCVA Beaumont Texas...😀
They 100% make epoxy vapor barriers, just maybe not from your manufacturing company.
No power washer 😂😂😂
Seriously? Why you do not go out the Garage at the end of the slab? 4 guys for the floor? You never explained about the polyurea
You probably wouldn't travel to Ohio?
I wish they did.
Frustrating to see that NO ONE's questions are being answered here in the comments, whats great content without engagement?