The strength you need to climb 9c // The ultimate climbing test

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ย. 2020
  • Check out the Climbing Bibel ► www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/...
    Check out Rungne! ► rungne.com/collections/all
    Marte ► @marteknibe
    Stian ► @stianchristophersen
    Martin ► @martinmobraten
    Music and Sound Effects: share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn
    (30 day free trial)
    - Scratch My Back
    - Never Need a Reason
    - The Way It Burns
    - Uncle Joe
    - Le Chat Noir
    - Keep 1Em Coming
    - 9th Power
    - Emerald Shores
    - Suddenly Deeply Interested
    - Car Song 1
    - Casual Chic
    - Meander
    - Hot Rod Rebels
    - Headline
    - Another Kingdom Is Gone
    - Quentino
    - Lemon Wedge In The Sky
    - Movie Box 3
    - Keep 'Em Coming
    - Dusty Delta Day
    - A Little Shake
    - No Hooks
    This climbing test should reveal how hard you can climb. How much power do you need to climb 9C?
    Exercise 1/4:
    Max Finger Strenght
    Approx. 20 mm crimp (5 sec)
    - 1 Point = 100% (bodyweight)
    - 2 Points = 110%
    - 3 Points = 120%
    - 4 Points = 130 %
    - 5 Points = 140 %
    - 6 Points = 150%
    - 7 Points = 160%
    - 8 Points = 180%
    - 9 Points = 200%
    - 10 Points = 220%
    Exercise 2/4:
    Max Pull-Up (One rep)
    - 1 Point = 100% (bodyweight)
    - 2 Points = 110%
    - 3 Points = 120%
    - 4 Points = 130 %
    - 5 Points = 140 %
    - 6 Points = 150%
    - 7 Points = 160%
    - 8 Points = 180%
    - 9 Points = 200%
    - 10 Points = 220%
    Exercise 3/4:
    - 1 Point = 10 sec L-sit (bend knees)
    - 2 Points = 20 sec L-sit (bend knees)
    - 3 Points = 30 sec L-sit (bend knees)
    - 4 Points = 10 sec L-sit
    - 5 Points = 15 sec L-sit
    - 6 Points = 20 sec L-sit
    - 7 Points = 5 sec Front Lever
    - 8 Points = 10 sec Front Lever
    - 9 Points = 20 sec Front Lever
    - 10 Points = 30 sec Front Lever
    Exercise 4/4:
    Hang from bar
    - 1 Point = 30 sec
    - 2 Points = 1 min
    - 3 Points = 1,5 min
    - 4 Points = 2 min
    - 5 Points = 2,5 min
    - 6 Points = 3 min
    - 7 Points = 3,5 min
    - 8 Points = 4 min
    - 9 Points = 5
    - 10 Points = 6
    Points:
    40=9c
    39=9b+
    38=9b
    37=9b
    36=9a+
    35=9a+
    34=9a
    33=9a
    32=8c+
    31=8c+
    30=8c
    29=8c
    28=8b+
    27=8b+
    26=8b
    25=8b
    24=8a+
    23=8a+
    22=8a
    21=8a
    20=7c+
    19=7c+
    18=7c
    17=7c
    16=7b+
    15=7b+
    14=7b
    13=7b
    12=7a+
    11=7a+
    10=7a
    9=7a
    8=6c+
    7=6c+
    6=6c
    5=6c
    4=6b
    3=6b
    2=6a
    1=6a
    Sponsors:
    - Toyota
    - Scarpa
    #4K
  • กีฬา

ความคิดเห็น • 1.7K

  • @magmidt
    @magmidt  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1357

    If you want to try the test yourself, all the info is in the description🤠

    • @Hulked
      @Hulked 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Magnus what shorts do you wear?

    • @ironge8352
      @ironge8352 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Climbing beast

    • @calisthenicsindia8498
      @calisthenicsindia8498 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      A guy called tozio ll Bindo can kill this test go check him out

    • @chuckchenuz317
      @chuckchenuz317 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Did you see the calisthenics workout Anton posted?? Would love to see you try it looks super hard

    • @I_am_Spartacus
      @I_am_Spartacus 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Loved this video, reminds me of the Lattice test. Just a crazy thought for a video idea... how about try setting a 10A sport route and demonstrating what it might look route wise, holds, moves etc and how hard it has to be at that level...

  • @NeroKoso
    @NeroKoso 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6531

    I scored 0. Failed to climb out from bed this morning.

    • @NeroKoso
      @NeroKoso 3 ปีที่แล้ว +162

      @Yadu Krishnan yea. Getting out from bed when you are tired is like 9a.

    • @foihdzas
      @foihdzas 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Nice

    • @dave_h_8742
      @dave_h_8742 3 ปีที่แล้ว +20

      @Yadu Krishnan drink a pint of water before bed it will help the hangover 😀😉

    • @landerhendrickx3522
      @landerhendrickx3522 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      XD

    • @paulsmith1707
      @paulsmith1707 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      15? I can guess why you spend so long in bed.

  • @jujimufu
    @jujimufu 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5642

    holy fk Magnus you look incredible I love you

    • @Hunter-wb2jl
      @Hunter-wb2jl 3 ปีที่แล้ว +31

      Hey, 18 seconds ago! 😂 hey Tom & Juji

    • @ravirajansivakumar1713
      @ravirajansivakumar1713 3 ปีที่แล้ว +74

      How tf you are not verified

    • @KoinzellGaming
      @KoinzellGaming 3 ปีที่แล้ว +135

      It's not gay if it's Magnus.

    • @osirun6572
      @osirun6572 3 ปีที่แล้ว +46

      You look incredible too babe.
      Juji looks ok too I guess.

    • @mvdbergrede
      @mvdbergrede 3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

      When the Juji & Tom account writes 'I', is it referring to Juji or Tom? (Or both?!)

  • @i_would_but_i_wont
    @i_would_but_i_wont 3 ปีที่แล้ว +925

    The trainer said "if you can talk it doesn't hurt". That applies to so many endurance activities.

    • @SnailHatan
      @SnailHatan ปีที่แล้ว +30

      Yeah, no it doesn’t. Women talk while giving birth. People talk with broken femurs and dislocated hips, which are the most painful bones to break and joints to dislocate. That’s a dumb statement that isn’t based in reality.

    • @lukelun
      @lukelun ปีที่แล้ว +14

      @@SnailHatan im sure you will be able to talk when your femur breaks, you will not be screaming in excruciating pain. i mean you can test it, though i doubt you will be able to comment on this video in case you do. as many people have said, its debilitating pain and you will quickly lose your ability to talk since all the focus is on the largest bone in the body thats snapped in half and the pain along with it

    • @Cuumerr
      @Cuumerr ปีที่แล้ว +21

      @@lukelun you can talk with a big injury lmao it’s called adrenaline ☠️

    • @Techii96
      @Techii96 ปีที่แล้ว +35

      @@lukelun I have broken my femur and you can definitly talk. You will not be able to talk doing hard endurance exercises but not because of the pain but because talking stops you from breathing.

    • @grodio9672
      @grodio9672 ปีที่แล้ว +17

      @@SnailHatan he’s talking about endurance activities like running or planking, not labor and severe injuries

  • @kamron_thurmond
    @kamron_thurmond 3 ปีที่แล้ว +255

    I like that Marte doesn't seem to be as afraid of heights anymore. She did so well.

  • @gpw4153
    @gpw4153 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2532

    "So that was 60 kilos, felt pretty easy"

    • @Brausebonbon
      @Brausebonbon 3 ปีที่แล้ว +34

      that would be more than 200% for me :D "pretty easy"

    • @demotori5741
      @demotori5741 3 ปีที่แล้ว +34

      well, he ended up doing 81

    • @justaguyfromreddit
      @justaguyfromreddit 3 ปีที่แล้ว +21

      I have just finished my weighted calisthenics session, and pull-ups with 60kg is still my max. Didn’t get to 70kg yet

    • @eirikengevik9826
      @eirikengevik9826 3 ปีที่แล้ว +31

      @@justaguyfromreddit Well done. 60kg is impressive

    • @justaguyfromreddit
      @justaguyfromreddit 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      @@eirikengevik9826 well, since it is just a month that I have started training weighted calisthenics I was hoping for at least 200%. ( I weight 75 i was aiming for that ). But hey! I can still improve by the end of the year

  • @puupipo
    @puupipo 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1709

    25:45 "No releasing one hand and shaking the other."
    Ah, so that's why Magnus is so good at climbing, he can levitate!

    • @RonWonWon
      @RonWonWon 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      😂😂 needs more likes

    • @enuskosinua2133
      @enuskosinua2133 3 ปีที่แล้ว +48

      Didnt even realize he said it like that.

    • @jameslape8656
      @jameslape8656 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

      This comment made me laugh so much thank you

    • @stevethea5250
      @stevethea5250 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@RonWonWon why everyone like saying "Canaan" camaansa

    • @stevethea5250
      @stevethea5250 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@enuskosinua2133 comien

  • @sargek7
    @sargek7 3 ปีที่แล้ว +75

    *Exercise 1/4* Max Finger Strength Approx. 20mm crimp (5 sec) 10:31
    *Exercise 2/4* Max Pull-up (One-Rep) 19:22
    *Exercise 3/4* L-Sit/Front Lever 22:09
    *Exercise 4/4* Hang From Bar 25:37
    I do calisthenics, and I know nothing about climbing, but I can see that this dude is brutal. I did the time stamps because I want to do the test someday. Nice video bro!

  • @Stickmayne
    @Stickmayne 3 ปีที่แล้ว +216

    This was a super fun assessment!
    155 lbs
    Crimp hang 62.5lbs = 40% = 5 points
    Max pullup 75 lbs = 50% (ish) = 6 points
    L sit 20+ seconds = 6 points
    90 seconds hang = 3 points
    20 total points. Hang endurance was terrible compared to everything else and so freaking painful. Retried that test and barely made 1 minute. Really highlighting what I need to work on 🤣.
    Don't climb anywhere close to my alleged 7c+. In fact, my V7/7a+ project isn't even that close to going down. So, no excuse - just need to climb better!

    • @guillaumelecam9412
      @guillaumelecam9412 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      that's quite impressive i think i couldn't do the same as you at L sit being the same weight but pretty much the same for the rest. did you wear a backpack for the crimp hang? i bet it's a lot harder as your center of mass is not the same as if you hold weight between legs.

    • @teostrong6973
      @teostrong6973 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      They are talking about route grades not boulder grades.

    • @squidwardo7074
      @squidwardo7074 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@guillaumelecam9412 Put the backpack on your chest instead of behind you. You can hurt yourself if you do pull ups with a backpack on your back

    • @danielhanson1434
      @danielhanson1434 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Have you done the test since this?

  • @ianaaronson5237
    @ianaaronson5237 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1775

    This is why I love climbing: magnus lifted over 200lbs and marte only did 10, yet they both got equal amounts of Cheers and encouragement

    • @dave_h_8742
      @dave_h_8742 3 ปีที่แล้ว +41

      Chalk and cheese but good effort given by both.
      She's a dot of a thing so she can't be strapping on 80 kilos.

    • @jamesmetoudi8979
      @jamesmetoudi8979 3 ปีที่แล้ว +21

      @Rub1X The guy converted it to pounds though?😂

    • @_Encie
      @_Encie 3 ปีที่แล้ว +76

      @@jamesmetoudi8979 yea, but marte did 10kg thats 22lbs

    • @shaniser74700
      @shaniser74700 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good point man! Agree!

    • @VocalMabiMaple
      @VocalMabiMaple 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

      weight lifting, running, and even boxing is the same way. it's really all about the community.

  • @Rustic.illustration
    @Rustic.illustration 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1469

    enjoyed this one a lot, especially the birthing of your head from your shoulders

    • @5upl1an
      @5upl1an 3 ปีที่แล้ว +47

      "NOT FUNNY" 🤣

    • @Innatefulness
      @Innatefulness 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I love how much Marte died at that comment xD As did I

  • @charlesconnor3904
    @charlesconnor3904 2 ปีที่แล้ว +66

    Just watched this, great video and info! My wife and I just started climbing. I'll be 60 in April and she just turned 61. I guess you could say we're late bloomers. Anyway, great test and training tips! Also love your channel and Marte is amazing. Have really enjoyed watching her grow and advance her climbing.

  • @greatafricanhornedfrog2954
    @greatafricanhornedfrog2954 3 ปีที่แล้ว +36

    I have been doing a ton of grip work for a few months now and today I did my first pull ups, I managed 4 of them! Your channel is a big inspiration and hugely educational thank you so much for sharing your passion with the world!

    • @eachone9220
      @eachone9220 ปีที่แล้ว

      Well done :)

    • @xDrawingDead
      @xDrawingDead 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Huge accomplishment, stay strong and keep it up. Next thing you know you’ll be doing sets of 10 pull ups💪🏻

  • @justinlumpkin1874
    @justinlumpkin1874 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2213

    "What do you think Adam Ondra would get?"
    "Probably a 34"
    *proceeds to get a 35*

    • @toniokettner4821
      @toniokettner4821 3 ปีที่แล้ว +334

      adam ondra's technique is godlike compared to that of magnus

    • @RockClimberAlex
      @RockClimberAlex 3 ปีที่แล้ว +325

      Yeah, that's the thing, they've tested Ondra and he's not exceptional in any of the physical tests. Megos has stronger fingers than Ondra. But there's more to it than just that. I think after like 9a or something, these stats become less important and the mental aspect, technique, recovery time etc. comes into play. They do projects above 9a for months before they send it. Bibliohraphie took Megos 60 sessions to get it and it's "only" a 9b.

    • @Xenoxen34
      @Xenoxen34 3 ปีที่แล้ว +103

      @@RockClimberAlex the grad von bibliographi is 9c

    • @0hhSly
      @0hhSly 3 ปีที่แล้ว +48

      @@RockClimberAlex it’s a 9c bro 😂

    • @buster3698
      @buster3698 3 ปีที่แล้ว +27

      @@RockClimberAlex it’s 9c not 9b

  • @3kr270
    @3kr270 3 ปีที่แล้ว +334

    23:41 "So fingers is your strong side" *everyone starts chuckling*

  • @HDgodfrey
    @HDgodfrey ปีที่แล้ว +7

    I turned forty guys year and just started climbing a month ago. Got my first V3 done this week. Line climbing and love this content. Keep up the great work.

  • @k3tna
    @k3tna 3 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    That was a cool one. Love the vibe you guys got there and obviously glad that Marte is trying these tests as well. Damn, imagine she gets to train regularly, she'll be doing 7C's soon. What a progress, well done both of you.

  • @osirun6572
    @osirun6572 3 ปีที่แล้ว +155

    "It hurt my tits actually."
    - Magnus Midtbø, 2020

  • @Lucas.jp13
    @Lucas.jp13 3 ปีที่แล้ว +468

    Huge props to Marte for the progress she has made! Took the fall like a champ haha

    • @damdampapa
      @damdampapa 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      yeah, thought the same. better than most men.

  • @susanjane4784
    @susanjane4784 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    This was one of the best videos from you guys and gal. It was great to see the test clearly explained then demonstrated and actually timed. For me, at least, as a non-climber, I can better appreciate what is required to get a good evaluation. Thank you for the excellent vid.

  • @nussnougat5462
    @nussnougat5462 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    It must be hard for her sometimes to be surrounded by some of the absolute elite climbers in the world when doing exercises. But for us mere mortals and beginners she is the perfect reference point haha
    Seeing how Magnus climbs and how he crushes every exercises makes me feel like it should be like that for me too

  • @derekhunter5040
    @derekhunter5040 3 ปีที่แล้ว +908

    These guys speak better English than many native speakers I know.

    • @toktassarna
      @toktassarna 3 ปีที่แล้ว +48

      And that's make it easier for us not native English speakers to understand them 😁 I often understand magnus and anton better than for example tom 😅

    • @MichielVerhoef
      @MichielVerhoef 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      @@toktassarna Certainly true. I speak English mainly with Germans, Indians, Spanish, Russians, French, and so on. This is not improving my English unfortunately ;-)

    • @toktassarna
      @toktassarna 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@MichielVerhoef but I'm sure most people understand you perfectly anyway.

    • @zombiecatcher
      @zombiecatcher 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      *english better* just to add to your point

    • @MajesticSkywhale
      @MajesticSkywhale 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@zombiecatcher i think it depends on which word you're emphasizing?
      speak better
      vs their knowledge of the english language being better

  • @noes5888
    @noes5888 3 ปีที่แล้ว +426

    Your posting a lot recently Magnus,ty fir that it helps a lot to keep the motivation during the lockdown

  • @nickcc1000
    @nickcc1000 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    So much encouraging going on in the video. Love that they're looking at individual performance! Go Marte!

  • @richwaight
    @richwaight 3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    Brilliant video! Fave quote was at 28:10 "It looks like you shoulders are giving birth to your head" bahahaha Thanks for posting :)

  • @Foxtro3
    @Foxtro3 3 ปีที่แล้ว +269

    magnus doesn’t get hurt with the hangboard
    the hangboard gets hurt with magnus

    • @arkadiygertsman1287
      @arkadiygertsman1287 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      sounds like magnus is russian

    • @rintje6507
      @rintje6507 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Chuck Norris format? I'm in.

  • @Samdasse
    @Samdasse 3 ปีที่แล้ว +344

    magnus is like a good wine, he gets better the older he gets
    commenting for the algorithm to help you get to one million subs :)

    • @henk1453
      @henk1453 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I think that's whiskey dude

    • @idkidk3378
      @idkidk3378 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      @@henk1453 Quite sure wine too

    • @nom6758
      @nom6758 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      @@henk1453 The term is synonymous with wine, not whisky. They might be similar in that sense but 99/100 people would think of wine if you used that saying.

  • @nicdes5540
    @nicdes5540 3 ปีที่แล้ว +99

    "I only climbed 1 v14" Makes 99.9% of viewers feel weak as shit ahaha

    • @kieranmcglade8446
      @kieranmcglade8446 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Yeaaa a bit but then u also gotta remember, if u ever do a v14, which u always can with a fuck ton of work, you’re climbing on a similar level to the top climbers in Norway ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ain’t bad at to be a v9/v10 if it’s just a hobby (never a diss at anyone climbing at any lower level too we all started with v1/2/3 etc)

  • @maxhallqvist8562
    @maxhallqvist8562 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Super impressed by you progress, keep it up Matre!

  • @ethanjoel7096
    @ethanjoel7096 3 ปีที่แล้ว +92

    17:44 *Marta forgets to chalk up*
    What Magnus said; "haha rookie mistake!"
    What Magnus was thinking: "WHO DOES SHE THINK SHE IS ?!"

    • @Thecyclingeconomicsdoc
      @Thecyclingeconomicsdoc 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      Yeah; I'm surprised Marte isn't drinking chalk shakes by this point in her dating Magnus. I mean; he is chalk... He eats, drinks, sleeps in, bathes in chalk. :)

    • @lanceausnz5997
      @lanceausnz5997 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      You could hear all three of the sigh sadly at the same time

  • @IbrahimKhan-jd2yy
    @IbrahimKhan-jd2yy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +159

    You can't fully appreciate how hard any of this is until you go and try some of it yourself. Insane.

    • @georgepapasimeonidis2636
      @georgepapasimeonidis2636 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Only hanging from those thin ledge's is already hard.he is an absolute beast

    • @TheValinov
      @TheValinov 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@georgepapasimeonidis2636 the ledge is actually quite big for a climbing hold.

    • @themadfrankenstien
      @themadfrankenstien 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The front lever alone takes a long time to learn

  • @justiceclarke9580
    @justiceclarke9580 3 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    Hey Magnus, I just want you to know that I started climbing because of you. 4 - 5 months in and I'm proud to climb v4s on the moon board. I just wanted to be as strong as you, ive even started to train front levers and lock offs!

  • @cyrusmorris9599
    @cyrusmorris9599 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your channel is definitely inspiring Magnus, can’t wait to try some of these.

  • @climbing_in_the_clouds
    @climbing_in_the_clouds 3 ปีที่แล้ว +240

    I knew Magnus was strong, but holy shit. You're a complete beast! Marte is getting pretty strong too! 💪

    • @Mike-oz4cv
      @Mike-oz4cv 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      And Marte didn’t even look like she was trying.

    • @theyracemesohardchair
      @theyracemesohardchair 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Marte is absolutely useless and embarrassing

    • @poob2372
      @poob2372 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@theyracemesohardchair bro?

  • @viicvan
    @viicvan 3 ปีที่แล้ว +159

    Magnus : this feel painful
    Also Magnus : smiling

  • @justinlohrman7628
    @justinlohrman7628 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    So happy Magnus is back to his climbing videos! Keeps my stoked for my climbs

  • @sharingmatters
    @sharingmatters 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your collabs are great, Magnus!

  • @bruce2953
    @bruce2953 3 ปีที่แล้ว +227

    Magnus probably won't see this but I'll just keep trying to suggest, would love to see tutorial videos for route reading and understanding routesetters intentions, or maybe even advanced technique videos! Aside from that, we're really getting spoilt with these frequent uploads XD loving every single one!

    • @Mike-oz4cv
      @Mike-oz4cv 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I think there are no tips or shortcuts. I’m only 6c+/7a myself but on a much lower level I’m very often surprised how beginners don’t see/use even seemingly obvious body positions or moves. Or don’t realize that they can actually reach a hold. I think it’s the same on higher levels. With experience you just get better at estimating distances and know what works and where the hard moves are.

    • @luketufts6827
      @luketufts6827 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      @@Mike-oz4cv yeah, experience plays a huge role in route-reading. When you’re a stronger climber you can recognize patterns in a route because you’ve seen similar things many times before. At the top level, setters oftentimes make things intentionally confusing, so a lot of the best climbers are separated by their creativity in reading

    • @mcamp9445
      @mcamp9445 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Think they’re might be some liability with a video like that

    • @florentinvonfrankenberg7102
      @florentinvonfrankenberg7102 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Ondra had some comments about "the language of chalk" that he uses to read a route. Look it up if you want some ideas

  • @mrburrito2942
    @mrburrito2942 3 ปีที่แล้ว +213

    I scored 19 points which is 7c+. I have only been climbing for 6 months and the hardest route I did is 6a+. I guess I am pretty strong because of previous calisthenics training but my biggest weaknesses are technique and finger strength. Mentality is also a big factor for me. On average I climb about 1-2 grades better on a top rope compared to lead. This video motivates me a lot to work on my climbing👍

    • @joltro9103
      @joltro9103 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      I’m floating right around there, about an 18, that test REALLLLLYYYYYY makes you realize your weak points. I’m good with upper-body quick explosiveness, so I did good on the weighted pull ups and hangs, but the stamina and core got me good

    • @Flipfloppies14
      @Flipfloppies14 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That's awesome, just got 14 points! Startad climbing for real 1-2 months ago.
      If you lack finger strenght i think many boulders becomes really hard around 7a. So then only the ones that are explosive will fit you. I think you want even numbers across all tests. What did you get on the first test,finger hanging? This is also vise versa.

    • @mrburrito2942
      @mrburrito2942 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@Flipfloppies14 I weigh around 86 kg @ 190cm. And did the 20mm hang with +17,5kg. On Pull ups however I can do up to 50 kg(45 with good form). The Lsit hang was easy for me but I am not strong enough for the full front lever.

    • @kevedwards
      @kevedwards ปีที่แล้ว +2

      That seems to be very common with new climbers, I never trained and was always slightly overweight but managed to climb 7B outside. After a 3 year break I’ve come back and noticed a shit ton of super strong young climbers in the gym but when they get on the wall they can’t do anything that they can’t power through any many don’t line climbing outside because they get spanked.

    • @mihailmilev9909
      @mihailmilev9909 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@kevedwards u mean they get beat on outdoor line climbing? Why how come?

  • @RysioACF
    @RysioACF 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very cool video. Thanks Magnus!

  • @benmurray7163
    @benmurray7163 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Incredible results for both of you. I reckon you should repeat this in early February. Be very interesting to see where you're at then. Also, Marte's progression has been mind-blowing.

  • @makafuniruni
    @makafuniruni 3 ปีที่แล้ว +85

    28:57; "It's extra painfull today i dont know why" 12:04 -Well maybe this is why :)

  • @NathanBetts
    @NathanBetts 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Super crazy to see your strength. Marte is looking strong. I enjoyed the test and I just posted my result. Thanks Magnus.

  • @michaelfourie2534
    @michaelfourie2534 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Such a helpful and useful video!! Thanks Magnus👌🏼 Can’t wait to try this when I get back to the gym.

  • @Jenny_Penny
    @Jenny_Penny 3 ปีที่แล้ว +40

    Mighty Marte strikes again 💪🏻💖 she did so good!!! You can be very proud of yourself Marte!!! Magnus & Marte = TH-cams best power couple!! Wish you all the best you two lovely people!!

  • @iiiaiiin
    @iiiaiiin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +31

    No words. Would love to see Magnus compete again. Such a brute

  • @szalashut3310
    @szalashut3310 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I was sooo scared for Magnus's feet with those dangling weights.

  • @giovannimanca4185
    @giovannimanca4185 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing guys! Really enjoyed this.

  • @jegjeg4530
    @jegjeg4530 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Magnus, thank you for another very inspiring vid. I really enjoy that you are refocussing on climbing. At the same time I really enjoy seeing Martha‘s progress. Thank you Jens

  • @kimediamond
    @kimediamond 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Love the vlogs. But I especially love the AMOUNT of vlogs lately. You the man Magnus!

  • @rhettetherington2846
    @rhettetherington2846 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Really interesting to watch. Great video Magnus and well done to you both. I'd be lucky to score anything.

  • @jonathanw6884
    @jonathanw6884 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    I tried this test today with my friends.
    I scored
    Max pull-up: 8p
    Core: 7p
    Max hang time: 8p
    Max crimp deadhang: 8p
    Total = 31 points (8c+)
    I have been climbing for 8 years (5 years consistently). My outdoor sports climbing RP is 7b and indoor 7c, but I haven't really projected anything because I have zero patience haha

    • @raulsuarez5421
      @raulsuarez5421 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      you should find a nice endurance 8b and try it, man.

    • @jonathanw6884
      @jonathanw6884 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@raulsuarez5421 yeah definitely. I live in Sweden and we only have granite so it's really hard. Hoping to go to Spain or something after this pandemic and try some really hard stuff

  • @Mrlightbulb202
    @Mrlightbulb202 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    this was my favourite video youve done. Love when cali meets rock climbing.

  • @karlderdelinckx
    @karlderdelinckx 3 ปีที่แล้ว +28

    My red point is 6c in length 7a+ I think in boulder.
    My results :
    20mm hang : 35kg - 50% = 6
    Pull-up : 50kg - 70 % = 7
    Frontlever : 5 sec = 7
    Hang : 1.5 min = 3
    Totaal 23 : 8a+
    I haven’t trained my endurance yet due to COVID. But difficult to believe the grade I should climb.
    Best on the moonboard is 6b+ benchmark. Beastmaker 6b exercise.
    I climb for 30 years with gaps. Pity there are no tests to check you’re technique.

    • @n7jenast
      @n7jenast 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      All predictions from statistical relationships comes with uncertainty. Some people perform above the predicted grade, some below. It would be interesting to see a value of the uncertainty in these predictions. Like is 6b+ one or two standard deviations below a score of 23?

    • @Stickmayne
      @Stickmayne 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Interesting! Similar score here. Nice pulling power 💪
      Also had a hang time of about 90 seconds. Felt so freaking hard. Never climbed harder than V4 (whole lot easier than the V10 potential) outside. I've never even climbed V8 in a gym even. Makes me want to go to the gym and stay till I put down a V8 tomorrow!

    • @karlderdelinckx
      @karlderdelinckx 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Stickmayne I would do the same if our gyms where open ;) but I’ll try the beasty 7a tomorrow...
      I was thinking that the power in the thumb is not tested. Pinches.

    • @karlderdelinckx
      @karlderdelinckx 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Did the beasty 7a with a little percentage failure. But even with perfect technique don’t see me do a moonboard 8a honestly.

    • @karlderdelinckx
      @karlderdelinckx 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Stickmayne I taped my hang bar and that gave me an extra 30 secs hangtime. 2min now but so hard.

  • @MrSupersurge
    @MrSupersurge 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great show of strength! Def going to try this next time I go to the gym

  • @JBsoable
    @JBsoable 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fantastic video really enjoyed it!

  • @gainwithbrain5395
    @gainwithbrain5395 3 ปีที่แล้ว +67

    Marte is pretty strong, not that normal girl anymore

    • @ZonZorZerx
      @ZonZorZerx 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      She never was, she had been training and climbing. That 'I'm normal, never trained before' was bullshit, just to set expectations low.

    • @icarusgotooclose
      @icarusgotooclose 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@ZonZorZerx she was generally fit, but she hadn't climbed.

  • @yanivcohen30
    @yanivcohen30 3 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    The book is amazing, covering so much ground, highly recommended.

  • @albertofrigieri6701
    @albertofrigieri6701 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I enjoy your videos so much Magnus, but I got to say, I also envy the way you always try so hard but still you manage not to get seriously injured. Keep it up, best

  • @kvasko2
    @kvasko2 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is a great test. Thanks for sharing it with us!

  • @HylianHanzou
    @HylianHanzou 3 ปีที่แล้ว +50

    Goals! I would love to do a 60kg weighted pull up and say "easy" 😆
    Also, Marte's pretty strong! It's good to see you both trying the same things 😊

  • @douglystyles
    @douglystyles 3 ปีที่แล้ว +19

    I would love to see a Moonboard episode!👍

  • @yestostuff7275
    @yestostuff7275 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    This is one if the best channels on youtube. Have a good day all

  • @goldsplashl9992
    @goldsplashl9992 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love how during the first test they were cheering Marte on a lot, it was sweet. It's also cool seeing her in the videos as a comparison, and to see her gradually getting better has been cool

  • @ericalbinyana1741
    @ericalbinyana1741 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Love your videos, started climbing last december but keep getting interrupted by lockdowns and your videos keep me motivated. This is for the algorythm, lets get 1M subs!

  • @codac7608
    @codac7608 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Finally got a 4K TV! Now I can enjoy your videos how they were meant to be seen!

  • @ahmadtoukhy03
    @ahmadtoukhy03 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I really liked your lead climb, i guess because of the way it was filmed and also because I enjoy watching lead more than bouldering, also it was so visible how challenging it was so that added to it.

  • @MiguelOliveira87
    @MiguelOliveira87 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    cool video with everyone in good spirits! bought the book :)

  • @KoalaRust
    @KoalaRust 3 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    Magnus thank you for inspiring me to start climbing and get stronger! :D love the vids and keep doing what your doing!

  • @jean-paulkorkmaz659
    @jean-paulkorkmaz659 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    REALLY enjoyed this style of video! Something that the viewer can interact with! It would be cool to see how you improved outside of gym training as well. Like if there is anything during the climbing portion of your sessions you did to improve technique or mental aspect

  • @robertobreve8623
    @robertobreve8623 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great episode and very informative, will buy the book as soon as it available in digital.

  • @didacjimenezsanchez9912
    @didacjimenezsanchez9912 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Loving these videos! Keep it up!!

  • @SavageBillahx2
    @SavageBillahx2 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    Damn! She has progressed so much in such a short time! I'm impressed

  • @DeadsetYT
    @DeadsetYT 3 ปีที่แล้ว +82

    I started climbing 2 months ago and just got told I've got tennis elbow. YAY.

    • @mario8833
      @mario8833 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

      I don't know your situation but i can recommend you to always warm up and cool down properly

    • @matthewmartin5791
      @matthewmartin5791 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Gotta pace yourself my friend

    • @karstenroelofs9216
      @karstenroelofs9216 3 ปีที่แล้ว +19

      I’ve been climbing for nearly 8 years and I still get it mildly every now and then when I put on too much weight for pull ups. Just don’t push yourself too hard and do a good warming up

    • @DeadsetYT
      @DeadsetYT 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@karstenroelofs9216 I was going pretty chill or I thought I was at least. I'm generally a pretty fit person, Gym & MTBing but I guess the muscles for Climbing are just super different and I wasn't as prepared as I could have been. Gotta do some resting, but I'll train and get back soon. Too fun not to. :D

    • @loganvalenti8922
      @loganvalenti8922 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It’s actually fairly common. I had it so bad that after sessions my hands would be shaking really hard and I could barely move them. But I started doing really long warm ups combined with exercises for tendon strength and it went away almost immediately

  • @craiger2399
    @craiger2399 2 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    I agree that climbing seems to be a sport you can progress in as you age. For the first time in his life, my 62 year old friend has lead a few 12As and 12Bs outside. He's been hang-boarding, working out in a targeted way, and working progressively harder climbs. Red-pointing projects and challenging himself. Awesome to see progression in someone over 60.

  • @erickmarte5294
    @erickmarte5294 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I recently got into climbing and there’s a lot of people who don’t know the amount of time one has to commit into it to get to be JUST decent at it. These people have incredible strength and dedication to get where they are. Awesome vid magnus can’t wait for what you’ve got in store for us climbing noobs.

  • @dillonjennings3226
    @dillonjennings3226 3 ปีที่แล้ว +27

    Magnus looks like he's packed on some muscle for sure

  • @neilgeorge6483
    @neilgeorge6483 3 ปีที่แล้ว +20

    Magnus getting back into competition climbing: Return of the King

  • @ClayterBob
    @ClayterBob 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    So many videos these past few weeks. You’re spoiling us Magnus

  • @joakimsvensson6766
    @joakimsvensson6766 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great episode!

  • @steffen3382
    @steffen3382 3 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    0:00 Magnus has a lot of balls!

  • @wifflebat14
    @wifflebat14 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    6:50 Oh man, Magnus looking jacked!

  • @cookandclimb2742
    @cookandclimb2742 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    When the climbing gyms reopen here in the UK I am definitely trying this!

  • @kevinshackleton2923
    @kevinshackleton2923 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Really enjoyed this!!!

  • @aaronlepsch9066
    @aaronlepsch9066 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thanks for this video. I really enjoyed it and I tested myself. In order, 7, 7, 3, 5 for a total of 22 points. I am definitely not climbing at my potential, but I also don't push myself to my limits. The mental aspect of climbing plays a big role for me personally, so this is good to know that I have tons of potential to capitalize on.

  • @iwonadacka2015
    @iwonadacka2015 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Wow! Great motivation. I wish I could do this stuff one day ;) Keep it up!

  • @ninak949
    @ninak949 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow Marte progressed sooo much, I need to ramp up my training, it really encourages me to train more, thank you all, you all are beasts! :D (for the algorithm ;) )

  • @marleenmoll9869
    @marleenmoll9869 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Super interesting! Great video.

  • @tsherman44
    @tsherman44 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    Beginner climber here (3 months climbing).
    I scored 8 points, which translates to 5.11b (American grade) as my max.
    This is interesting, since my current hardest send is a 5.10b.
    Maybe I need to try some harder stuff and start projecting that 5.10d. :D

  • @karstenroelofs9216
    @karstenroelofs9216 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

    After a climbing session and workout I got a 22, 6+7+6+3. Terrible endurance apparently😂. My highest redpoint grade is currently 7b+ but I’m projecting a 7c

    • @liamgreenelsh3259
      @liamgreenelsh3259 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I scored 22 as well! I don’t even climb 6c yet! Lots of endurance for me to gain too. And technique. good luck on your project

    • @Hmath
      @Hmath 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      got 21 points, my best redpoint is actually 8a. But it took me a lot to climb it, so feel overscored

  • @justinburwell5124
    @justinburwell5124 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for posting this. I am definitely going to try this test. I have no training as a climber, but I LOVE to climb.

  • @SirCrashALot69
    @SirCrashALot69 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Not to sound like a fan boy but i look forward to your videos each week. Only been subbed for a few months but i've enjoyed all you vids and get excited whenever i see a new one uploaded. Keep up the great work, editing, and entertainment!!!!

  • @randomhuman731
    @randomhuman731 3 ปีที่แล้ว +56

    I would love to see marte try the lattice test. She’s progressing so fast!

    • @dave_h_8742
      @dave_h_8742 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      We are in lockdown, in the North especially, I'm guessing till March/April off and on.

    • @seksikasrotta9930
      @seksikasrotta9930 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@dave_h_8742 what do u mean in north like the scandinavian countries or

    • @Chrissli3
      @Chrissli3 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      seriously almost on sighted a 6c+ wtf??

    • @Thecyclingeconomicsdoc
      @Thecyclingeconomicsdoc 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Chrissli3 She's definitely not "normal"...

    • @Chrissli3
      @Chrissli3 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Thecyclingeconomicsdoc I wish I would get better as fast as her.. I started climbing over 1 year ago and stuck on 6b for a long time now

  • @kutte207
    @kutte207 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Magnus' strength is actually absolutely mind boggling sometimes. And the videos get more awesome each time, thank you so much for your content!
    Weirdly though, i got 26 points on the strength test, meaning i should be able to climb 8b. My hardest climb was only 6c however, even though I have been climbing for almost 15 years now and don't have the worst technique according to a trainer at my gym... That's kinda weird :D
    I did however finish a couple 7b boulders and one 7c (about V9), so maybe I just really suck at endurance (was my lowest score by far on the test as well).

    • @zombiecatcher
      @zombiecatcher 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      About the same. Been climbing a little more than 3 years. congrats on the v9 I’ve only got a v6.

  • @TehAuroraWolf
    @TehAuroraWolf 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Holy Cow Marte has gotten really strong since the last video I saw. Great work!

  • @DXGamerDude
    @DXGamerDude 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Keep it up Magnus love the content 💪🏼💪🏼

  • @richardl9242
    @richardl9242 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    Never climbed in my life as I am deathly afraid of heights 0_0
    You're definitely a great ambassador for your sport. I'm slowly warming up to the idea of giving it a try. According to this test, I should be able to do 7b, with a total of 16/40. But there's no f'ing way! hahah
    Here are my results @ 33 years old, 6 foot 2 and weight 200 lbs:
    Finger strength - 0/10 (My fingers are clearly super weak...)
    Max pull up - 6/10
    Core strength - 6/10
    Hang time - 4/10

    • @zGJungle
      @zGJungle ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Get a finger board and do a retest :)

  • @MatthiasAI
    @MatthiasAI 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    This is awesome in general but its like abonus to see someone in their early stages of climbing comparing to someone thats a seasoned climber and trying to go further. Also seeing the difference between bodyweight and perceivable strength with with this test is amazing!! Being a 6ft 220lb guy Miss "normal girl" out did me by quite a few points. Although having a known way to test yourself thats relatively easy is also a great way to push yourself to know you can see your progress over time.

  • @jayseph678
    @jayseph678 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Magnus you are so strong it’s awe inspiring!

  • @andulasis6283
    @andulasis6283 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    awesome cant wait to try this out once the climbing gyms open again :)