The North-East Pillar of Tengkangpoche

In October 2021, Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn climbed a major new route on Tengkangpoche’s North-East pillar in Nepal, after spending a total of 7 days on the route.
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[@davidnighy1917]

Inspiring stuff Tom. You have travelled a long way since AT in Snowdonia!

[@SherkuSherpa]

I am very happy. According to the locals, you two should be the first to climb this mountain. Again, congratulations to you.

[@adammiller9179]

9:28 What a beautiful line!

[@LaziUK]

Why would they be upset that you borrowed their stuff...I find that a bit strange tbh...anyway, absolutely amazing achievement!

[@mattiti8523]

It takes a lot of effort to bring gear and food from the valley to halfway up a mountain. Clearly they intended to use this material themselves and didn't leave it behind to help their "competitors". In any case, the ideal in alpinism is to carry up your own gear and bring everything back down with you, leaving the mountain as unperturbed as possible. This story shows that it's not always easy to follow that ideal.

[@noiseforthealgorithm4668]

it's only borrowed if they're going to go up there a replace it

[@AnnHollingshead]

@@mattiti8523 Don't leave gear. Super simple. I will use everything I find on the mountain.

[@mec8690]

Dude turn off the music, it's a distraction.

[@guidehautemontagne]

climbing such a line and filming the adventure in the mean time... impressive !

[@garethaustin3137]

As an armchair alpinist, I'd be interested to hear from anyone who knows, how does a climb like this compare to the North Wall of the Eiger (apart from the approach)?

[@am.perronace]

I depends on the route you choose to climb Eiger. Comparing this climb to the Heckmair route, the historic one on Eiger NF, it's is almost on another planet. First of all, just taking in consideration the technical difficulty, this new route is much harder than the Heckmair. And to make things even worse, climbing hard pitches at 6000 meters of elevation is far from an easy task. Altitude impacts the level of a climb in two ways. One is by just making everything more physically demanding, as you're performing at high levels without oxygen. The other is the fact that the environment at such high altitude is really severe and unpredictable. It's colder, there's more risk of avalanches, and in general a climber has to fight against so many variables. It becomes a game of chess against the mountains, but while thinking about the next move you're not just thinking, you're up a massive wall holding on tiny holds...

[@garethaustin3137]

@@am.perronace Thank you for such an informed answer 😊

[@vicscott5550]

Please Tom when your talking don't play music in the background no need for it ..

[@luigibenignochiappero5589]

CONGRATS SuperGreat Master!!!!!!!! GREAT Masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best Wishes.

[@RobJohnson]

Fantastic, good effort filming too!

[@jakekarroum7958]

Only two types of people: the fast and the hungry. Well done Tom and Matt!

[@gazza1858]

I walk stanage edge that’s enough for me , outstanding video.

[@vincentkrause7097]

Beautiful but why is this not public available? Only via Link?

[@alltoone]

That yellow Kryos Jacket got a lot of puncture holes into it. You might use this footage and send it to your R&D department to think of a solution and reinforce the material for this jacket. As a prospecting customer after seeing this I would not buy this product.

[@AR9ify]

Would have worked better with the down jacket under the shell.

[@purplemonkeyelephant]

That kind of kit is for super-light alpine-style week long ascents. If you want a super durable jacket it will weigh a lot more

[@alltoone]

@@purplemonkeyelephant as a matter of fact there are no durable down filled jackets, not even the down suits used on very high elevation.
I was stating that for a brand such as Mountain Equipment with a long experience, how can you make the outer shell of jacket intented to winter alpine climbing which involves a lot of mixed climbing (meaning you will be draging your arms and other areas on rock, etc) by using a material thickness of only 10 denier?
Plus at the price of the jacket you should expect that they figured out this kind of issues during the prototype phase.

[@ASNIV_]

Congrats!

[@seesternWHV]

👍👍👍

[@MrAlvarezArias]

amazing

[@timothywatts7996]

SUPER Lame… snaked an amazing route from fellow climbers who had the full intention of returning, and they knew it! ´hopefully we’re friends’ LMFAO

[@LocalConArtist]

Nobody owns that mountain it is lame to assume someone has ownership over it

[@vincegordon6830]

💥👏🤩 outstanding!