Since people keep asking about this I thought I’d list the designers I mentioned in the video: AFRICA Kenneth Ize Thebe Magugu CHINA Shushu Tong Uma Wang Ziggy Chen MEXICO Barbara Sánchez-Kane JAPAN Anrealage Kei Ninomiya
That paradox of "everything has been done" is so eurocentric. what they mean when saying it is that western culture has been well explored in fashion but so many non-euro designers are innovating. China and Korea are brilliant examples of fashion design that is pushing the envelope. The lens needs to move away from the west. Down with the circle jerkers lool
@LoVe The Countries of Africa are another example. Thebe Magugu is sort of championing the continent (again within a western lens) but can't wait for more prominent designers to come to the fore. There's also so much history, print, textiles to be explored.
Agree, the future of fashion is outside of Europe. Would be a gamechanger to see big fashion conglomerates like LVMH and Kering embrace more diversity when appointing creative directors. They have so much power in their ability to elevate the careers of new designers.
Unfortunately conglomerates only care about money, they don’t necessarily care about the art or moving the industry forward. So they will only support designers with the most commercial value. Hence... Fenty
I think, and because I am a Nigerian studying in LCF, you hit the nail on the head here. I recently told my tutors that one of the reasons students of ethnic backgrounds seem to simply regurgitate Eurocentric values/ideals of taste is that fundamentally, there is no diversity in the way we are being taught. From artistic references to contextual studies, because out tutors were themselves raised with an Eurocentric standard, it is hard for them to understand aesthetics that challenge those which they are familiar with. Designers draw a lot from their cultural heritage, some from family others from social class heritage, but it impacts how we see the world. The way forward is by creating and promoting more than one standard/ideal of taste which will be quite hard but certainly not impossible, because the entirety of the fashion industry simply promulgates Eurocentric norms. I am looking forward to having a voice like yours in the industry!
Multiple interesting talking points brought up from the color tones, to the diversity in not only culture but also idea. It seems to be what I might refer to as heritage versus innovation, and that affects industries as a whole
Honestly the thing you said about people who arent really passionate about fashion but have connections really resonates...with any luck passion and drive will allow everyone else to find a spot in this industry
I agree with this so much. I study fashion journalism at Lcf and we do focus on Eurocentric ideas must of the time. And our lectures are mostly white British. Therefore my perspective is tarnished by their point of view. There is also a massive emphasis on ' who you know and not what you know' and networking. Which to some extent I agree with but again the students from wealthier backgrounds and money are bound to be able to get better contacts and connections, therefore its a classist approach to be working at.
really appreciated your points about the need to use models that represent references in the garments. I think that all aspects of fashion need diversity as different people obviously bring different perspectives to the table
Everything has not been done in Fashion! There are different ideas! I love this video and so so true! Crap! Crap! I need to visit Mexico I love Korean and Japanese fashion ❤
This is why I really appreciate your videos. You are so well spoken, contribute with a new fresh perspective and you really cover multiple sides of the spectrum. Could’nt agree more on what was being said. Keep doing your thing my g!
This is not a dig at you because you've introduced me to a lot of non white designers. This is actually a general question: why can't poc who are fashion enthusiasts, be they stylists, writers, photographers, designers and etc. build platforms of their (I say 'their' because I'm not a part of the fashion bubble) own away separate from the European industry? Am I naive, or aren't we in the day and age, where that is possible? Why do people act as if the Europeans and their industry, have to be the gatekeepers and the pinnacle of creativity, beauty and art, when so much of that exists everywhere outside of them? As for elitism and nepotism, that will never change imo. They will always prioritise European ideals and beauty over anything else, even if they have to take from a non white/Euro source and condense into something worth profiting from. That is what their concept of fashion and beauty was built off on after all, and that's okay with me. Granted, there are some European designers and artists I adore and who I love to learn about, but there is so much delightful richness and beauty in in fashion from the perspectives of people of colour, and it's a shame that for the most part, it takes some sort of certified stamp of approval from the European fashion world to see that. It's mentality I've been trying to unload, myself.
Bruh, black, asian or other people of color, who was born or raised in Europe are europeans too, just like white people. If we talking about non white designers or people in genereal they just..... love european fashion more .Even The Archive in his video said, that he hates tie dye, because it remind him about cheap bazars of Africa
@@glebtsylko2296 I know. I'm UK born and bred but when I speak of POC in the context of fashion and creativity, I'm also involving POC outside of Europe. Like Africa, Asia and America. About the last part, you're right unfortunately.
The whole point of this video was not to say that European fashion isn’t good. I spent most of the video praising the Antwerp 6, Kris Van Assche, Demna Gvasalia etc. My goal is to get people to see the beauty and innovation in fashion happening worldwide. It’s not really about anyone making a separate industry. It’s all about everyone coming together and innovating together. What I’m advocating for is more unity in the fashion industry not more separation
@@FashionRoadman oh that wasn't what I was implying. What I said about the industry was my personal opinion. Overall I suppose the idea of a diverse group of people working as one is a lot more reasonable and realistic, than being separate. Thanks for responding.
Loved the video and i definitely agree with most of your statements. I do believe that if a brand like dior uses south-american or african "references" without using models of the same background it's just plain and simple cultural appropriation
As someone who is from low income, East Europe I find the journalism part and the elitism such a awful thing. It shouldn’t matter the background of the designer. Back to watching the rest of the video.
To be fair Orange Culture have done a great job at carrying their brand worldwide. It’s true the world needs to move on from just London, Paris and NewYork
Thanks for this video! So glad you are introducing designers from different cultures. I'm curious about how you learn about these designers? How you find information on fashion, artists and creators from your own country or any non-europeans/non-american ones? Are they featured on established magazines or do you have any recommendations on other publications that bring light specifically to diverse designers and innovation? (Not just magazines, any other platforms too) Thanks for your videos!
I think I just seek many different sources. I also read non-western fashion publications like “mode men” that is primarily focused on west African fashion. I also follow many different kinds of fashion journalists on Instagram. From Mexican ones to Chinese ones
As a Peruvian I’ve always wished there was more Hispanic representation in fashion. Haider would be the closest latino designer at the forefront of fashion but he was only Colombian born and was adopted by a French couple, so he doesn’t know the language (he mentioned he didn’t in an interview in 2011)
It’s bound to happen. The industry just needs to catch up to what is happening worldwide and I will do my part of course by highlighting designers from various regions.
Great, thought-provoking video as always, I've never thought about your point on the skin tones of models, but it makes perfect sense! I think encouraging diversity in fashion is also important because it allows for those within the fashion industry from non-Western cultures to serve as role models. As an Asian, I think that having a career in the fashion industry has always been looked down upon. Even here in Singapore, which is becoming more accepting of those interested in the arts, my friends still look at me like I'm crazy when I tell them that I'd like to do anything remotely related to the fashion industry as a career. A lot of people think that those who try to pursue these careers are doomed to fail or be broke, or that the only reason why they chose to pursue a career in fashion is that they aren't intelligent enough for more "traditional" careers. Therefore, I think that such role models are really important, because they can really show young talent that the naysayers are wrong. They can show them that it IS possible to succeed, even if the "fashion infrastructure" in these cultures is not as well established as in the Western world.
I totally agree about the role model point. I wouldn’t have thought I’d be able to make it in the industry as a black person without people like Ozwald Boateng & Robin Givhan
I totally agree .the only reason why Saint Laurent is as it is right now is thanks to Saint Laurent him self coming from Algeria and using French and Algerian together.
And before I forget Balmain new creative director is French and east Africain and every thing he does feels new and authentic with his new use of colour and never seen before silhouette
Rightly have you spoken about diversity in thought being crucial. Even though I was born and raised in the South Bronx, I do not fit in the typical mold (and I think pondering on that may have given me a few ideas.) As for cultural references, while I do not label myself a fashion designer (I think of someone sketching and creating fabric prints,) the idea of using the coqui petroglyph on an ascot was a big idea that while wasn't a big money maker on my shop, is something I am proud of. The coqui is a frog indigenous to Puerto Rico, known for it's sound at night. The Tainos viewed them in high regard by carving their image onto rocks (the petroglyph,) and being part of their mythology. As to Western fashion being stale, Kevin Max said it once in a book as to how that music labels would prefer signing several artists who look and sound alike over one different artist to avoid risk. Or as he eloquently put it in a poem "I face the microphone and fumble in my pockets for a change; a break from the deranged world of . . . plotting out the death of art."
Sorry I was late on watching the video, been busy with Uni projects lately. For my overall thoughts, I definitely agree with the elitism point, that fashion tend to have this mentality that designers have to be of a certsin background to be great. Though the situation is improving, it was certainly a problem when McQueen came about. And to add, fashion houses must concern with diversity as well by hiring people from different backgrounds, ethnicities, etc. with merits in mind in order to understand the different perspectives and nuances differing cultures can bring. Being something, let's say, European based, doesn't mean you cannot be diversed. Just my two cents.
For me, Im from Hong Kong where the fashion scene basically inexist, only a selective group of people try to make things better and receive a lot of criticism, and thats why Im going to London to study fashion as I dont see a bright future here. With that said, I dont feel protected in the UK neither. This industry is not friendly to new comers or foreigners. Employers usually prioritize local which makes me feel like Im just the same person in Hong Kong with an extremely expensive graduate certificate. Im starting to think whether I will be wasting my money for nothing.🤦🏻♂️
Your situation is a unique one but even then. In mainland China there is a huge budding fashion industry as well as close by countries like South Korea and Japan.
You probably won’t see this but this summer i worked for a fashion journalist. She’s a black women from Belgium who runs a fashion blog and has one of the best fashion podcasts out. Her name is Dominique Nzeyimana and het podcast is called The most she has an amazing almost 2 hour long episode with walter van beirendonck that i think you would love
Applause Applause!!!! Truly one of your best, I'd like to see the response to a video like this in a race mix of students. IN my findings if a white professor had said the exact same things it would be received as intellectual thought but a black professor it would be dismissed as whining
I think you bring up a lot of very good points-- but I think even in Europe itself, people tend to ignore the entire eastern block and only consider Russia. Which is a pity, there is a lot of potential in the east too, but it all tends to be either dismissed or clumped into a single entity, as if the USSR still existed. This also might be a political issue, but overall as you mentioned in the video, even among white europeans there can be a big difference in culture and family values. I'm only 22, but as a Bulgarian immigrant in western Europe I noticed that my views are vastly different compared to those of my western peers. I find myself in a situation where I can't completely relate to europeans from wealthier nations, but I also can't relate to the few but extremely wealthy fashionistas from the ex USSR-Jugoslavia-Socialist countries... which seem to be the only ones who are given a voice, even though only a tiny fraction of our populations can even afford designer to begin with
It’s a complex phenomenon to unpack but ultimately I see it as my duty to always be balanced on things and not only highlight things going on in the west
I get what your saying with innovation in fashion, but there are just some many layers to fashion that it's sometimes not in a brands best intrest to innovate for whatever reason. For example Yohji collections and shows as of recent are more subdued, nostolgic and reminicent, enjoying life in every second instead of always having the new. But I do agree with pretty much everying you are saying, I think there is a space for innovation in fashion and I think you'd appreciate more contemporary brands and publications with diversity already in them. If you havn't heard of Not Just A Label I think you'd like their focus on contemporary brands.
That’s the thing, Yohji innovated though. He spearheaded the new era of anti fashion with Rei Kawakubo. He’s someone who has literally contributed to the advancement of fashion. Good designers now like Isabel Benenato & Kiko Kostadinov literally always credit him for inspiration. Then on top of that, he’s created new iconic silhouettes with Y-3 like the Qasa.
They love to convince themselves that it’s diverse. I think it makes them feel better but they don’t actually care about taking part in the necessary change needed to ensure a more diverse fashion industry.
The Fashion Archive They think by pandering to us helps the cause but it doesn’t. If you are going to do a African theme show have people from Africa to model. Not a hard concept to grasp.
Broadly speaking I agree with all your points, except for Europe not having any innovative designers as it ignores people like Kiko, JW Anderson, Craig Green, Iris van Herpen, Raf etc, or innovation doesn't have to be so pronounced/showy but can be rooted in european traditions of restrained refinement in design and expression as shown by designers like Namacheko, Ann D etc
I spent a long part of this video explaining why the Antwerp 6 are great as well as designers like Haider Ackermann, Demna Gvasalia, Kris Van Assche etc. We all know fashion in the west is elite. My point was the innovation is the west is not the same as it once was which is why we have to look elsewhere (I did say in the video that there are a select few western designers that this does not apply to). People like Christian Dior, Alexander McQueen and Cristobal Balenciaga are innovators and creators. They literally invented new silhouettes and now what a lot of designers here do is reference their creations and they’re praised and treated like legends. Once upon a time Tailors like Armani had to refine the silhouette of a suit for years before he was respected. I think we are just conditioned to think the only good fashion is in the west or when something really innovative comes from Africa or South America we dismiss it because we don’t understand it. What I’m advocating for is that people really take the time to consider fashion worldwide, not just in the west because there is so much innovation happening outside of the west.
@@FashionRoadman 'the innovation in the west is not the same as it once was' It's just that small point I'm in slight disagreement too as just Craig Green on his own carries that mantle for me. But 100% I'm with you that the 'tide' of new design, direction & inspiration is fast being found more and more in the wider world. I was just watching quite a few recent MA csm graduate shows this past week or so and was surprised at how many of the more radical and innovative graduates were basically all from China, Japan and Korea. I was thinking wow this is really going to be where the future of cutting edge fashion is. I've picked up so many from your vids too. Been looking where I can buy Kenneth Ize since I discovered and fell in love with his designs from when you brought him to my attention. Was interested in your view and where do you position in your discussion 'western based/originated' designers like Wales Bonner, By Walid, Paria Farzaneh etc?
Great question ❤️ I don’t consider By Walid, Paria Farzaneh or Wales Bonner as western brands because of where the inspiration of the designs come from which is outside of the west and from their respective cultures.
I'm from India. In my country, design is not about artistic expression, it is stuck in the phase of wearable clothing that needs to look pretty. Or only ocassion wear that people would want to spend big bucks on. It has also to do with the fact that it is a developing country and only a consistently growing economy. It is over and over reiterated in school to make clothes that makes sense, that people wear. Not to go overboard with expression. We also have a rich traditional textile industry for the growth of which designers are responsible. Now, if i want to study more about artistic expression of clothing or advanced pattern making , about more abstarct design processes, I would want to go to a design school in the west. However, then I am bombarded with the history and culture of the west which is something completely new and unrelatable. That's how it is.
Great video🙌🏾, nailed it, however on the flip side, as a design student myself and black one at that I kind of understand why we use skinny models because it’s like a blank canvas, if you use someone curvy it can, take the attention away from the garment itself because it can easily become too sexy (sexualised), what do you think ?...
I definitely agree. Also when someone is curvy the garment has to be made specifically for their proportions or it will look very bad very quickly. Skinny models can wear damn near anything and it won’t look off
Hey man, thanks for the video. Very interesting discussion as always ✌🏾 I was wondering : what's the song that you use in the intro and background ? It's dope
I wish I could help you but it’s literally a song I got off of TH-cam Creative Commons. When I downloaded it, I changed the file name to something else to arrange it into my TH-cam music folder.
Hi, I appreciate I found this channel. I went to fashion school many years ago in Miami and although I cut the career short I still love or hate 😆 art in general. I like your insight and would like to ask if may be willing to do a an opinion video of what you think of Colombian fashion. I’m from Barranquilla, Colombia, I reside in Fort Lauderdale, Florida and Colombia Moda takes place in the city of Medellin. I have my reservations as far as design and models and would love to hear your educated opinion . 💕 Don’t hold back 😊
Fashion should be about creativity and reflecting life, it's kinda sad to see that attention (in the role celebrities play in the industry) and being seen is such a big factor in the 'instagram' era
100% agree. It’s sad to see. There are definitely positives of Instagram but the whole scene of “influencer core” is definitely a bad influence. People should be pushing others to find their own styles and be more creative not to dress like them
@@FashionRoadman yeah exactly, I was watching a dior fashion show in Miami on loic prigent his yt page with all the glitter and glamour and celebreties (it was more of a puppet show than a fashion show) Attention=marketing=money, Can't really blame a company for going for that money. It's just sad and stupid that there's so much talent in the world and everybody seems to care more about people who don't know anything about fashion but have 'followers'.
Yeah high fashion has always had these elitist undertones to it. That probably just stems from the origins of a lot of the fashion houses and stuff like that though
Fashion journalism is becoming more and more irrevelant in a time where fashion publication of all sort has become so readily available. Irrespective though, fashion design can be as artistic and creative as it wants to be but is still irrelevant when no one buys it. The reason why fashion is western centric is because that's where most of the money was originally spent, until recently.
Omg! Where have you been. I lost your details so let me know your details. It’s so sad that Hilary Alexander died! How dare they put down African Fashion. It’s wrong because they always assume or have assumptions.
I thought fashion ads and commercials are based on the population ratio of a nation.. On Indian ads for example you will see mostly Indians models on ads because thats represents the majority of their population, it will be very strange to see more white models vs Indian models. In Kenya for example will be very strange to see mostly Asians or white models on ads when the majority of the population is black .. In the USA there is no difference if in the past you saw mostly white models on ads that’s because that represented the majority of the population at the time. thats definitely have changed over the years but to force a diversity of an specific race and make it look like is a majority that’s definitely not diversity that’s racism..
Since people keep asking about this I thought I’d list the designers I mentioned in the video:
AFRICA
Kenneth Ize
Thebe Magugu
CHINA
Shushu Tong
Uma Wang
Ziggy Chen
MEXICO
Barbara Sánchez-Kane
JAPAN
Anrealage
Kei Ninomiya
That paradox of "everything has been done" is so eurocentric. what they mean when saying it is that western culture has been well explored in fashion but so many non-euro designers are innovating. China and Korea are brilliant examples of fashion design that is pushing the envelope. The lens needs to move away from the west. Down with the circle jerkers lool
@LoVe The Countries of Africa are another example. Thebe Magugu is sort of championing the continent (again within a western lens) but can't wait for more prominent designers to come to the fore. There's also so much history, print, textiles to be explored.
Finally a background and yes diversity leads to success.
Agree, the future of fashion is outside of Europe. Would be a gamechanger to see big fashion conglomerates like LVMH and Kering embrace more diversity when appointing creative directors. They have so much power in their ability to elevate the careers of new designers.
Unfortunately conglomerates only care about money, they don’t necessarily care about the art or moving the industry forward. So they will only support designers with the most commercial value. Hence... Fenty
I think, and because I am a Nigerian studying in LCF, you hit the nail on the head here. I recently told my tutors that one of the reasons students of ethnic backgrounds seem to simply regurgitate Eurocentric values/ideals of taste is that fundamentally, there is no diversity in the way we are being taught. From artistic references to contextual studies, because out tutors were themselves raised with an Eurocentric standard, it is hard for them to understand aesthetics that challenge those which they are familiar with. Designers draw a lot from their cultural heritage, some from family others from social class heritage, but it impacts how we see the world.
The way forward is by creating and promoting more than one standard/ideal of taste which will be quite hard but certainly not impossible, because the entirety of the fashion industry simply promulgates Eurocentric norms.
I am looking forward to having a voice like yours in the industry!
Multiple interesting talking points brought up from the color tones, to the diversity in not only culture but also idea. It seems to be what I might refer to as heritage versus innovation, and that affects industries as a whole
Honestly the thing you said about people who arent really passionate about fashion but have connections really resonates...with any luck passion and drive will allow everyone else to find a spot in this industry
Hopefully one day it’s more about passion and ability over just solely having connections
Many are just doing the same.
The far East and Africa are amazing
It is so true that most people in Fashion are very Middle Class.
I feel it’s important that most designers study art and fashion. I studied both Art and Fashion and this really helped my understanding
This is great channel. I just found you today. You are a breath of fresh air.
That intro was so smooth. Great topic and your perspective on it was very insightful.
I agree with this so much. I study fashion journalism at Lcf and we do focus on Eurocentric ideas must of the time. And our lectures are mostly white British. Therefore my perspective is tarnished by their point of view. There is also a massive emphasis on ' who you know and not what you know' and networking. Which to some extent I agree with but again the students from wealthier backgrounds and money are bound to be able to get better contacts and connections, therefore its a classist approach to be working at.
really appreciated your points about the need to use models that represent references in the garments. I think that all aspects of fashion need diversity as different people obviously bring different perspectives to the table
Totally agree
Everything has not been done in Fashion! There are different ideas!
I love this video and so so true! Crap! Crap!
I need to visit Mexico
I love Korean and Japanese fashion ❤
This is why I really appreciate your videos. You are so well spoken, contribute with a new fresh perspective and you really cover multiple sides of the spectrum. Could’nt agree more on what was being said. Keep doing your thing my g!
Thanks so much for the support I really appreciate it 🙏🏿
This is not a dig at you because you've introduced me to a lot of non white designers. This is actually a general question: why can't poc who are fashion enthusiasts, be they stylists, writers, photographers, designers and etc. build platforms of their (I say 'their' because I'm not a part of the fashion bubble) own away separate from the European industry? Am I naive, or aren't we in the day and age, where that is possible? Why do people act as if the Europeans and their industry, have to be the gatekeepers and the pinnacle of creativity, beauty and art, when so much of that exists everywhere outside of them? As for elitism and nepotism, that will never change imo. They will always prioritise European ideals and beauty over anything else, even if they have to take from a non white/Euro source and condense into something worth profiting from. That is what their concept of fashion and beauty was built off on after all, and that's okay with me. Granted, there are some European designers and artists I adore and who I love to learn about, but there is so much delightful richness and beauty in in fashion from the perspectives of people of colour, and it's a shame that for the most part, it takes some sort of certified stamp of approval from the European fashion world to see that. It's mentality I've been trying to unload, myself.
Bruh, black, asian or other people of color, who was born or raised in Europe are europeans too, just like white people. If we talking about non white designers or people in genereal they just..... love european fashion more .Even The Archive in his video said, that he hates tie dye, because it remind him about cheap bazars of Africa
@@glebtsylko2296 I know. I'm UK born and bred but when I speak of POC in the context of fashion and creativity, I'm also involving POC outside of Europe. Like Africa, Asia and America. About the last part, you're right unfortunately.
The whole point of this video was not to say that European fashion isn’t good. I spent most of the video praising the Antwerp 6, Kris Van Assche, Demna Gvasalia etc.
My goal is to get people to see the beauty and innovation in fashion happening worldwide. It’s not really about anyone making a separate industry. It’s all about everyone coming together and innovating together. What I’m advocating for is more unity in the fashion industry not more separation
@@FashionRoadman oh that wasn't what I was implying. What I said about the industry was my personal opinion.
Overall I suppose the idea of a diverse group of people working as one is a lot more reasonable and realistic, than being separate. Thanks for responding.
YES!!! THIS IS SO IMPORTANT!
I'm a signed model who recently got signed to a mother agency with tattoos, so I was really surprised!
Also, you should check out the brand HYKE. They're also based in Japan and I think their aesthetic and presentation might interest you.
I’ll definitely check HYKE out
Loved the video and i definitely agree with most of your statements. I do believe that if a brand like dior uses south-american or african "references" without using models of the same background it's just plain and simple cultural appropriation
Just put my post notification bell on for the first time! Such valuable content and great journalism
Thanks a lot, I must be doing something right
As someone who is from low income, East Europe I find the journalism part and the elitism such a awful thing. It shouldn’t matter the background of the designer.
Back to watching the rest of the video.
🙏🏾 this was great video, diversity in fashion was great to start a discussion about.
5 minutes in this video and i already love it, great video and very insightful!
Really loved your point about how fashion should move forward into shining a light on other parts of the world and their designers eg africa❤️
To be fair Orange Culture have done a great job at carrying their brand worldwide. It’s true the world needs to move on from just London, Paris and NewYork
You are so right with all your points, fashion should be for everyone so their excuse for why they only use certain models is bullshit
Thanks for this video! So glad you are introducing designers from different cultures. I'm curious about how you learn about these designers? How you find information on fashion, artists and creators from your own country or any non-europeans/non-american ones? Are they featured on established magazines or do you have any recommendations on other publications that bring light specifically to diverse designers and innovation? (Not just magazines, any other platforms too) Thanks for your videos!
I think I just seek many different sources. I also read non-western fashion publications like “mode men” that is primarily focused on west African fashion. I also follow many different kinds of fashion journalists on Instagram. From Mexican ones to Chinese ones
I’m new to your channel and have been binging your videos recently- I love the way you present your ideas, great video as always 😊
Thanks for watching the vids ❤️
I have seen lots of black models but I don’t recall any Latinos. I love how Christian Siraiano uses a diversity of models in all shapes and sizes.
This was amazing. One of your best✊🏽
great video! love the kanghyuk shoutout, one of my favorites
SUCH A GOOD TALKER
So important and relevant for now, thank you
Awesome commentary and perspective. Real informative video!!!
Thanks for watching
Thank you for this 😌 i found your Channel today and I subscribed and turned post notifications on
❤️
peace, love the conviction. keep up the dope work! I hope to work with you some day.
mad video bro really enjoyed it
can you talk about Kenneth ize next?
I plan on talking about him in a video soon. Stay tuned
As a Peruvian I’ve always wished there was more Hispanic representation in fashion. Haider would be the closest latino designer at the forefront of fashion but he was only Colombian born and was adopted by a French couple, so he doesn’t know the language (he mentioned he didn’t in an interview in 2011)
It’s bound to happen. The industry just needs to catch up to what is happening worldwide and I will do my part of course by highlighting designers from various regions.
The Fashion Archive thank you 🙏🤍
Great, thought-provoking video as always, I've never thought about your point on the skin tones of models, but it makes perfect sense!
I think encouraging diversity in fashion is also important because it allows for those within the fashion industry from non-Western cultures to serve as role models.
As an Asian, I think that having a career in the fashion industry has always been looked down upon. Even here in Singapore, which is becoming more accepting of those interested in the arts, my friends still look at me like I'm crazy when I tell them that I'd like to do anything remotely related to the fashion industry as a career. A lot of people think that those who try to pursue these careers are doomed to fail or be broke, or that the only reason why they chose to pursue a career in fashion is that they aren't intelligent enough for more "traditional" careers.
Therefore, I think that such role models are really important, because they can really show young talent that the naysayers are wrong. They can show them that it IS possible to succeed, even if the "fashion infrastructure" in these cultures is not as well established as in the Western world.
I totally agree about the role model point. I wouldn’t have thought I’d be able to make it in the industry as a black person without people like Ozwald Boateng & Robin Givhan
I totally agree .the only reason why Saint Laurent is as it is right now is thanks to Saint Laurent him self coming from Algeria and using French and Algerian together.
And before I forget Balmain new creative director is French and east Africain and every thing he does feels new and authentic with his new use of colour and never seen before silhouette
Totally agree
Could you please make a video on newer designers for us to keep an eye on from all continents :D ?
Got a few on the way but be sure to check out some I’ve made in the past on designers like “Kansai Yamamoto” & “Paria Farzaneh”
@@FashionRoadman Holy fuck yes, Kansai is heavily influential, he was responsible for some of Bowie's most iconic looks. Truly underrated.
Beautiful video dude! We need not only racial but class diversity!!
100%
I’ve been waiting on you to film a video on this topic! You definitely didn’t disappoint. Another great video Ayo ✨
Very insightful, definitely agree on your point about diversity
This is such a well done and insightful video! Great job, keep up the good work dude! :)
Rightly have you spoken about diversity in thought being crucial. Even though I was born and raised in the South Bronx, I do not fit in the typical mold (and I think pondering on that may have given me a few ideas.) As for cultural references, while I do not label myself a fashion designer (I think of someone sketching and creating fabric prints,) the idea of using the coqui petroglyph on an ascot was a big idea that while wasn't a big money maker on my shop, is something I am proud of. The coqui is a frog indigenous to Puerto Rico, known for it's sound at night. The Tainos viewed them in high regard by carving their image onto rocks (the petroglyph,) and being part of their mythology.
As to Western fashion being stale, Kevin Max said it once in a book as to how that music labels would prefer signing several artists who look and sound alike over one different artist to avoid risk. Or as he eloquently put it in a poem "I face the microphone and fumble in my pockets for a change; a break from the deranged world of . . . plotting out the death of art."
Great video!
Very important. The intro was sick 🔥🔥
Thanks for watching
Thank you for the skill share, as well as the input.
Great video! Inspired me to do my own 💯
Definitely make yours
by the way, you are really sharp keep it up
I feel like you’re going to offend a lot of people... so be it.
Every single video I’ve made on TH-cam offends at least someone haha 🤣
Nothing changes otherwise I guess
Im Filipino and sadly there's only few fashion designers in our country :( I honestly want to see more Filo fashion designers
Sorry I was late on watching the video, been busy with Uni projects lately. For my overall thoughts, I definitely agree with the elitism point, that fashion tend to have this mentality that designers have to be of a certsin background to be great. Though the situation is improving, it was certainly a problem when McQueen came about. And to add, fashion houses must concern with diversity as well by hiring people from different backgrounds, ethnicities, etc. with merits in mind in order to understand the different perspectives and nuances differing cultures can bring. Being something, let's say, European based, doesn't mean you cannot be diversed. Just my two cents.
Good video, now that you mentioned them, I think a video on Uma wang or Ziggy Chen would be nice
Been working on it haha, coming to your screen 📺 soon
For me, Im from Hong Kong where the fashion scene basically inexist, only a selective group of people try to make things better and receive a lot of criticism, and thats why Im going to London to study fashion as I dont see a bright future here. With that said, I dont feel protected in the UK neither. This industry is not friendly to new comers or foreigners. Employers usually prioritize local which makes me feel like Im just the same person in Hong Kong with an extremely expensive graduate certificate. Im starting to think whether I will be wasting my money for nothing.🤦🏻♂️
Your situation is a unique one but even then. In mainland China there is a huge budding fashion industry as well as close by countries like South Korea and Japan.
You probably won’t see this but this summer i worked for a fashion journalist. She’s a black women from Belgium who runs a fashion blog and has one of the best fashion podcasts out. Her name is Dominique Nzeyimana and het podcast is called The most she has an amazing almost 2 hour long episode with walter van beirendonck that i think you would love
Omg checking her out now
Applause Applause!!!! Truly one of your best, I'd like to see the response to a video like this in a race mix of students. IN my findings if a white professor had said the exact same things it would be received as intellectual thought but a black professor it would be dismissed as whining
The last point is definitely true and that comes down to unconscious bias
Great video!!👍👍
Great video! Curious as to who some of these mexican designers are, would love to know more about them
My favourite right now is Barbara Sánchez-Kane
I think you bring up a lot of very good points-- but I think even in Europe itself, people tend to ignore the entire eastern block and only consider Russia. Which is a pity, there is a lot of potential in the east too, but it all tends to be either dismissed or clumped into a single entity, as if the USSR still existed. This also might be a political issue, but overall as you mentioned in the video, even among white europeans there can be a big difference in culture and family values. I'm only 22, but as a Bulgarian immigrant in western Europe I noticed that my views are vastly different compared to those of my western peers. I find myself in a situation where I can't completely relate to europeans from wealthier nations, but I also can't relate to the few but extremely wealthy fashionistas from the ex USSR-Jugoslavia-Socialist countries... which seem to be the only ones who are given a voice, even though only a tiny fraction of our populations can even afford designer to begin with
It’s a complex phenomenon to unpack but ultimately I see it as my duty to always be balanced on things and not only highlight things going on in the west
I get what your saying with innovation in fashion, but there are just some many layers to fashion that it's sometimes not in a brands best intrest to innovate for whatever reason. For example Yohji collections and shows as of recent are more subdued, nostolgic and reminicent, enjoying life in every second instead of always having the new. But I do agree with pretty much everying you are saying, I think there is a space for innovation in fashion and I think you'd appreciate more contemporary brands and publications with diversity already in them. If you havn't heard of Not Just A Label I think you'd like their focus on contemporary brands.
That’s the thing, Yohji innovated though. He spearheaded the new era of anti fashion with Rei Kawakubo. He’s someone who has literally contributed to the advancement of fashion. Good designers now like Isabel Benenato & Kiko Kostadinov literally always credit him for inspiration. Then on top of that, he’s created new iconic silhouettes with Y-3 like the Qasa.
Also, I definitely need to check out not just a label. Never heard of it, thanks for the recommendation ❤️
I study Fashion Journalism at a degree level, the only black person and I hate how fashion says they are diverse but it seems as it is for a trend xx
They love to convince themselves that it’s diverse. I think it makes them feel better but they don’t actually care about taking part in the necessary change needed to ensure a more diverse fashion industry.
The Fashion Archive They think by pandering to us helps the cause but it doesn’t. If you are going to do a African theme show have people from Africa to model. Not a hard concept to grasp.
100% facts
This is a cool video, man. I like your thoughts on the subject matter.
Great vid man!
Broadly speaking I agree with all your points, except for Europe not having any innovative designers as it ignores people like Kiko, JW Anderson, Craig Green, Iris van Herpen, Raf etc, or innovation doesn't have to be so pronounced/showy but can be rooted in european traditions of restrained refinement in design and expression as shown by designers like Namacheko, Ann D etc
I spent a long part of this video explaining why the Antwerp 6 are great as well as designers like Haider Ackermann, Demna Gvasalia, Kris Van Assche etc. We all know fashion in the west is elite. My point was the innovation is the west is not the same as it once was which is why we have to look elsewhere (I did say in the video that there are a select few western designers that this does not apply to). People like Christian Dior, Alexander McQueen and Cristobal Balenciaga are innovators and creators. They literally invented new silhouettes and now what a lot of designers here do is reference their creations and they’re praised and treated like legends. Once upon a time Tailors like Armani had to refine the silhouette of a suit for years before he was respected.
I think we are just conditioned to think the only good fashion is in the west or when something really innovative comes from Africa or South America we dismiss it because we don’t understand it. What I’m advocating for is that people really take the time to consider fashion worldwide, not just in the west because there is so much innovation happening outside of the west.
@@FashionRoadman 'the innovation in the west is not the same as it once was' It's just that small point I'm in slight disagreement too as just Craig Green on his own carries that mantle for me. But 100% I'm with you that the 'tide' of new design, direction & inspiration is fast being found more and more in the wider world.
I was just watching quite a few recent MA csm graduate shows this past week or so and was surprised at how many of the more radical and innovative graduates were basically all from China, Japan and Korea. I was thinking wow this is really going to be where the future of cutting edge fashion is.
I've picked up so many from your vids too. Been looking where I can buy Kenneth Ize since I discovered and fell in love with his designs from when you brought him to my attention.
Was interested in your view and where do you position in your discussion 'western based/originated' designers like Wales Bonner, By Walid, Paria Farzaneh etc?
Great question ❤️ I don’t consider By Walid, Paria Farzaneh or Wales Bonner as western brands because of where the inspiration of the designs come from which is outside of the west and from their respective cultures.
Swaped the ACW for the Prada!🔥....thank you for this video, you’d think this would be common sense for designers 😩
Once in a while the prada comes out
I'm from India. In my country, design is not about artistic expression, it is stuck in the phase of wearable clothing that needs to look pretty. Or only ocassion wear that people would want to spend big bucks on. It has also to do with the fact that it is a developing country and only a consistently growing economy. It is over and over reiterated in school to make clothes that makes sense, that people wear. Not to go overboard with expression. We also have a rich traditional textile industry for the growth of which designers are responsible. Now, if i want to study more about artistic expression of clothing or advanced pattern making , about more abstarct design processes, I would want to go to a design school in the west. However, then I am bombarded with the history and culture of the west which is something completely new and unrelatable. That's how it is.
Great video🙌🏾, nailed it, however on the flip side, as a design student myself and black one at that I kind of understand why we use skinny models because it’s like a blank canvas, if you use someone curvy it can, take the attention away from the garment itself because it can easily become too sexy (sexualised), what do you think ?...
I definitely agree. Also when someone is curvy the garment has to be made specifically for their proportions or it will look very bad very quickly. Skinny models can wear damn near anything and it won’t look off
Hey man, thanks for the video. Very interesting discussion as always ✌🏾
I was wondering : what's the song that you use in the intro and background ? It's dope
I wish I could help you but it’s literally a song I got off of TH-cam Creative Commons. When I downloaded it, I changed the file name to something else to arrange it into my TH-cam music folder.
I'm learning soo much!!!!!!!!
Glad you are
Omg I love your Prada bucket hat 😋
Thanks ❤️
What Mexican Fashion designers do u recommend to check out? I want to do more research on them
There are loads but the main one I have been looking at recently is Barbara Sánchez-Kane
@@FashionRoadman just checked then out. Sooo siickk ✨
GO AND CHANGE THE GAME💫
great video. Thanks, keep up
What is your opinion on the harajuku street fashion?
Hi, I appreciate I found this channel. I went to fashion school many years ago in Miami and although I cut the career short I still love or hate 😆 art in general. I like your insight and would like to ask if may be willing to do a an opinion video of what you think of Colombian fashion. I’m from Barranquilla, Colombia, I reside in Fort Lauderdale, Florida and Colombia Moda takes place in the city of Medellin. I have my reservations as far as design and models and would love to hear your educated opinion . 💕 Don’t hold back 😊
I’m not too well versed on Colombian fashion but I could definitely make a video if I did enough research
so important!!
Preach preach preach
Really great topic.
He spitting facts
Sushi tong is actually a restaurant name
It’s ShuShu tong haha
Fashion should be about creativity and reflecting life, it's kinda sad to see that attention (in the role celebrities play in the industry) and being seen is such a big factor in the 'instagram' era
100% agree. It’s sad to see. There are definitely positives of Instagram but the whole scene of “influencer core” is definitely a bad influence. People should be pushing others to find their own styles and be more creative not to dress like them
@@FashionRoadman yeah exactly, I was watching a dior fashion show in Miami on loic prigent his yt page with all the glitter and glamour and celebreties (it was more of a puppet show than a fashion show) Attention=marketing=money, Can't really blame a company for going for that money. It's just sad and stupid that there's so much talent in the world and everybody seems to care more about people who don't know anything about fashion but have 'followers'.
Yeah high fashion has always had these elitist undertones to it. That probably just stems from the origins of a lot of the fashion houses and stuff like that though
so good!!
Man U should have 100k subs by now. People are sleep
Hopefully one day
You are the man
could you link some of the diff designers you name from Africa, china etc? idk how to spell theml lol
AFRICA
Kenneth Ize
Thebe Magugu
CHINA
Shushu Tong
Uma Wang
Ziggy Chen
MEXICO
Barbara Sánchez-Kane
JAPAN
Anrealage
Kei Ninomiya
Yes!! This is it!!
DO A FREKIN VIDEO ON HOOD BY AIR.
NOO! LMAO, Europe has not been it, North South Central America is where it's at!!!
Hmm..I really like this guy
what show was that in the intro
Does anyone know that stuff is kinda fire
Fashion journalism is becoming more and more irrevelant in a time where fashion publication of all sort has become so readily available. Irrespective though, fashion design can be as artistic and creative as it wants to be but is still irrelevant when no one buys it. The reason why fashion is western centric is because that's where most of the money was originally spent, until recently.
🤟🏿
We need more Midget Models. Now before I get cancelled ask yourself why did you get offended at the truth....... Midget Margiela line
Omg! Where have you been.
I lost your details so let me know your details.
It’s so sad that Hilary Alexander died!
How dare they put down African Fashion. It’s wrong because they always assume or have assumptions.
There is not only talent in the West and they need to stop this crap! 😮😂😊
I thought fashion ads and commercials are based on the population ratio of a nation..
On Indian ads for example you will see mostly Indians models on ads because thats represents the majority of their population, it will be very strange to see more white models vs Indian models.
In Kenya for example will be very strange to see mostly Asians or white models on ads when the majority of the population is black ..
In the USA there is no difference if in the past you saw mostly white models on ads that’s because that represented the majority of the population at the time. thats definitely have changed over the years but to force a diversity of an specific race and make it look like is a majority that’s definitely not diversity that’s racism..
Keeping the status quo in style by pushing people to look only to some designers helps keeping the hegemony of big names, that's really it.