Man it is amazing to hear it run that good at the end knowing the condition of the cylinder walls on 2 and 3. Makes me paranoid that my B20 could have some lurking damage and not even know...
If you're really paranoid then keep samples of your used oil at each change. If similar intervals produce similar colors/sediments then you're fine. Stop worrying about what might happen, enjoy your car, it's fine.
You can buy and install B21 pistons, fit directly with boring to 92,5mm and a big-bore headgasket. (standard bore 88,9mm). You get the engine up to a bit over 2,1L then and also the compression gets upped. The compression (10,5:1) on the B20E might be a bit much for regular fuel, but should work with premium.
Is it not easier to have a thinner headhasket and take a 0,5/1mm from the head ? Don't know if it got electronic ignition but you need one with more advance timing . . But what does the bigger piston gives you more benefits ? Cause a high compression rate with no adaption whatsoever , does it run better or does it mark the aging of the engine ? You don't drive on LPG ( Propane/Butane) gas over there ? It has got a octane rating of more than 100.. runs clean , cheap only less joules so not that efficient like petrol .
Very informative video. I have a question. Recently my B20 engine was rebuilt by a Volvo specialist with almost everything new inside. Took the car back and started noticing oil leaking from the head to block gasket area, both left and right side. Right side worse. I asked the engine builder and he's got nothing to say. Engine runs fine. I checked the torque is fine. So what could be the problem. Thanks
Like the Emerson, Lake & Palmer. I wish I could do what you can do. I've got a sweet '65 544 I need help with. First owner was a mechanic and milled the head .125"
The B20E also had a slightly shaved cylinder head resulting in a smaller combustion chamber. Combine that with a thinner head gasket and you go from the 8.7:1 on the B20F to the 10.5:1 on the B20E.
I saw you using two manuals in one of your videos. I am planning on buying a project p1800s, could you share what the manuals were, or if you had any recommendations?
Nice video, David. Any chance you can provide the torque specs for the cylinder head, valve cover, etc? Or do you have them in another video? Thanks for sharing.
Three steps: first round is 29 lb ft, followed by 61-69 lb ft. Refit the rocker assembly, Run it for ten minutes, allowing it to warm up, then remove rocker assembly and check torque at 61-69. Valve cover has no torque spec, because it’s a beefy cork gasket. If it leaks, tighten a bit more. We use bolts instead of the original screw fittings because the aftermarket cover has thicker castings, requiring longer bolts. On my B30, I use the original screws and original cover (preferred) and have no leaks either. Cork compresses over time, so check it and tighten on occasion
@@DavidBello You have the all-time record for quickest response ever! 😊 I really appreciate that! I am working on a B20E engine that I am still learning about, and you have the best videos for working on these engines and anything Volvo related. Thank you so much for the quick response, and all your excellent videos, they are indispensable to all of us Volvo fanatics and many others!
David , it's very easy , you don't have to measure compression .take out the dipstick ( from the engine - to be clear ) and hold a lighter at oil .. The hoses will be hard , bubbles in the system .. Why don't you take out the pistons and put a new set of rings on it , hone the cilinders , measure bearings , and needed replace them .. Polish the valves , new seals .. ready to go . Takes a few hours more .
I’m sorry! Aluminum heads are less forgiving. But it’s a quick job with lots of access. You can do it! Get the head checked for flatness to give you peace of mind
It's runs too rich . Can be the emissions bus we don't have or the sound of the mic. Try measuring the compression ( as I see your a fan of it ) once dry and the second time with oil on the piston .If you notice a big difference you need to spent a few hours more .
With the octane rating of even the best gas available now being so low I'd be happy to lose some CR with that gasket. It would be interesting to see what the compressions are now. See if the cylinder with the suspected broken ring had cured itself. Sounds very quiet, should be fine for general driving around.
Yes once the rings get up past the damage, it’s able to compress nicely. My concern is long term damage of the rings from imperfect bores, but it seems resilient
Could it be the gas, when the P-1,800 there use to be leaded gas, now there is unleaded, plus some other types of fuel,don*t you have to add .an additive.
Man it is amazing to hear it run that good at the end knowing the condition of the cylinder walls on 2 and 3. Makes me paranoid that my B20 could have some lurking damage and not even know...
That’s just how robust they are. They’ll continue to run with lots of damage!
If you're really paranoid then keep samples of your used oil at each change. If similar intervals produce similar colors/sediments then you're fine.
Stop worrying about what might happen, enjoy your car, it's fine.
@@phillycheesetake my car ended up having a worn cam 🤣 full rebuild coming this winter.
Keep up the good work David.
Fantastic work. Thank you for sharing.
You can buy and install B21 pistons, fit directly with boring to 92,5mm and a big-bore headgasket. (standard bore 88,9mm). You get the engine up to a bit over 2,1L then and also the compression gets upped. The compression (10,5:1) on the B20E might be a bit much for regular fuel, but should work with premium.
Is it not easier to have a thinner headhasket and take a 0,5/1mm from the head ? Don't know if it got electronic ignition but you need one with more advance timing . . But what does the bigger piston gives you more benefits ? Cause a high compression rate with no adaption whatsoever , does it run better or does it mark the aging of the engine ?
You don't drive on LPG ( Propane/Butane) gas over there ? It has got a octane rating of more than 100.. runs clean , cheap only less joules so not that efficient like petrol .
Very informative video. I have a question. Recently my B20 engine was rebuilt by a Volvo specialist with almost everything new inside. Took the car back and started noticing oil leaking from the head to block gasket area, both left and right side. Right side worse. I asked the engine builder and he's got nothing to say. Engine runs fine. I checked the torque is fine. So what could be the problem. Thanks
Like the Emerson, Lake & Palmer. I wish I could do what you can do. I've got a sweet '65 544 I need help with. First owner was a mechanic and milled the head .125"
The B20E also had a slightly shaved cylinder head resulting in a smaller combustion chamber. Combine that with a thinner head gasket and you go from the 8.7:1 on the B20F to the 10.5:1 on the B20E.
Ah I totally forgot about that! 3.34” E and 3.42” F thicknesses.
So i could raise my compression with just the head gasket or milling the head?
Your a traveling Volvo Doctor... Doctor David to surgery Doctor David to surgery.
Love Volvo's................you just can't kill them.
I saw you using two manuals in one of your videos. I am planning on buying a project p1800s, could you share what the manuals were, or if you had any recommendations?
Nice video, David. Any chance you can provide the torque specs for the cylinder head, valve cover, etc? Or do you have them in another video? Thanks for sharing.
Three steps: first round is 29 lb ft, followed by 61-69 lb ft. Refit the rocker assembly, Run it for ten minutes, allowing it to warm up, then remove rocker assembly and check torque at 61-69.
Valve cover has no torque spec, because it’s a beefy cork gasket. If it leaks, tighten a bit more. We use bolts instead of the original screw fittings because the aftermarket cover has thicker castings, requiring longer bolts. On my B30, I use the original screws and original cover (preferred) and have no leaks either. Cork compresses over time, so check it and tighten on occasion
@@DavidBello You have the all-time record for quickest response ever! 😊
I really appreciate that! I am working on a B20E engine that I am still learning about, and you have the best videos for working on these engines and anything Volvo related. Thank you so much for the quick response, and all your excellent videos, they are indispensable to all of us Volvo fanatics and many others!
@@DavidBello So these engines don't have a final angle torque like the newer Volvos?
David , it's very easy , you don't have to measure compression .take out the dipstick ( from the engine - to be clear ) and hold a lighter at oil ..
The hoses will be hard , bubbles in the system ..
Why don't you take out the pistons and put a new set of rings on it , hone the cilinders , measure bearings , and needed replace them .. Polish the valves , new seals .. ready to go . Takes a few hours more .
Would you have any idea on HP difference between Weber carb P1800 and fuel infected vehicle? Thanks
Nice! 😊
You must be stalking me... My B21 popped it's head gasket last night. :(
I’m sorry! Aluminum heads are less forgiving. But it’s a quick job with lots of access. You can do it! Get the head checked for flatness to give you peace of mind
It's runs too rich . Can be the emissions bus we don't have or the sound of the mic. Try measuring the compression ( as I see your a fan of it ) once dry and the second time with oil on the piston .If you notice a big difference you need to spent a few hours more .
With the octane rating of even the best gas available now being so low I'd be happy to lose some CR with that gasket. It would be interesting to see what the compressions are now. See if the cylinder with the suspected broken ring had cured itself. Sounds very quiet, should be fine for general driving around.
Yes once the rings get up past the damage, it’s able to compress nicely. My concern is long term damage of the rings from imperfect bores, but it seems resilient
Could it be the gas, when the P-1,800 there use to be leaded gas, now there is unleaded, plus some other types of fuel,don*t you have to add .an additive.
Is Seafoam really toxic? Must be.
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