Nice car. Owned one many years ago. No need for stress on the road, it will bring you everywhere, slow but relaxed. I was always smiling driving it, and still do when I see one nowadays. ❤ 2CV. Greetings from Belgium.
It is amazing for me to see this vehicule that my mother drove 25 years ago. Thank you. Note that this car came from Vienne department in France it is not so far from where I live. Congratulations for your patience and your dedication to make this 2CV (deudeuche as nickname) to live.
Hi Austin I found your vid by chance. I must say that I'm really impressed that you own a 2cv in the U.S and that you looking after it, talking about it without being sarcastic or mock it, you just appreciate for what it is. As a French national I take my hat off to you. I expect you fixed the issues by now. They're great simple car, happy driving. Boris
Thanks! I have since sold this car, but I enjoyed it very much. I have always been a fan of smaller cars, and found them to be every bit as fun as larger, more powerful cars, just in a different way. If you would like to continue to follow along with this specific 2cv, the new owner is documenting his journey on TH-cam as well: th-cam.com/users/corrieb74
@@AustinCoulson thanks Austin I will. I'm a real fan of the 2cv, I had three, one from 1966, as a 20 years old I wanted a radio in it, bought one not realising it was a 6 volts and the modern radio a 12 volts! Never worked 😅 One of many adventures I had with it. I know then inside out, striped them to the last bolt and back together. I subscribed to your channel 👍 If you ever buy another one and need help, don't hesitate to ask. They do a van version, you could turn it to a pick up with a Citroën visa engine in it, it'll fit straight in, a common conversion this side of the pond. Thanks for the entertainment 👍
@@user-xi5rw6iv3b I plan on owning another one someday. I have a friend in Argentina who is keeping an eye out for me. Are you familiar with the Pembleton 2cv conversion? I've always wanted to build one of those
Pembleton? Yes very nice, this would be the kit I’d go for, the Hoffmann kit is also a popular one, albeit more classical / traditional. There’s a Dutch company that specialises in these kit as well as motor upgrades, you could definitely end up with a nice car and one off at that! Well on your side of the planet that is. If you decide to go for it, one word of advice, get a galvanised chassis, it’s their weak point. There’s a company in south France, you probably know about it already, called 2cv Cassis they have every single part available for any models, they can even rebuild your car from zero (backed up and covered by Citroen, using original Citroen manufacturing tools) as long the official docs are available. I hope you will rebuild one someday 👍. Thanks 😊. Boris
36 years ago, mine had low compression, the engine was dead, it was a 1975 yellow model i bought from a hair cutter 4500 french francs. A lot of good memory with that car...The new seats are beautiful, very good taste.
Learned a lot from your video and would love to have been able to watch it back in 1988 when I had a 2CV6-Great engines once dialed in and can run flat out.Super comfortable too.I seem to recall that they were so well machined that they didn't need head gaskets.Always thought it was fascinating that a 2CV was one of the cars in American Graffiti.Thanks!
I'm French and I've spent some time in upstate NY. Always thought 2CVs were perfect for your lovely narrow country roads but I never got to see any there, sadly. When heavy rear wheel drive cars are stuck in the snow, these humble little workhorses just keep on going. Thanks for your videos.
Watching this now ...thoroughly enjoying your explanation of timing , points and how these bits , pieces and adjustments work with and against each other ! Really like how you just drilled a hole into the exhaust to install an O2 sensor to get the pesky mixture correct !
French answer to a Beetle! Saw a lot of these when in Europe in the mid-'70s, always wondered what made 'em tick! Watching some of them being operated was downright Craziness!
Put a Lumination 123 electronic ignition on it. Also a good idea to fit a new solid state coil. Happy motoring. Never be without a 2cv, they are life changing.
I have seen a stray timing strobe like that on older VW Bug engines. I always just figured it was a crappy pickup for the light and since the engines idled smooth, I never pursued it. For weak spark at the plug, (same old VWs) we would pull the coil wire slightly out of the distributor cap, not all the way out, but enough to make the spark have to jump within. If that improved the spark at the plug, we would then use that as confirmation it was the coil and replace it. I have no idea why that told us it was the coil, but was a reliably good indicator. In case you skipped stuff like the door panel replacement because you think there is no interest, I for one would be. Watching a technician doing even "simple" jobs, one can sometimes spot little tricks that are handy, but previously unknown. Thanks for you videos.
The interior door panel was 2 screws and not very exciting so I didn't film that. I should have shown the soft top removal, as well as the front end reassembly and painting but I got a little stuck during this video as every minor repair to the motor I thought would be the last. I couldn't believe how much she kept fighting me. I appreciate the feedback, this is exactly the kind of info that helps in the future while filming. I love the info on diagnosing the coil, I have not heard that, but I will remember that in the future. I have read of guys running a Harley Davidson coil (because they are both 2 cyl, and both coils fire simultaneously to both plugs) but I did not want to stray away from originality yet. I was very surprised that the new coil didn't fix it after all I did.
that was a great video most of the things that can go wrong with a 2cv fixed by a guy who knows what he's doing way better than a lot of guys who have big ego's and nothing else well done sir, just make sure that the doesn't steal your car :-)
Burton is a good recommendation. 2CVSOURCE is excellent, too. Between the two of these suppliers you should be able to get everything you need, including the 602cc > 652cc conversion. Tires: you will be better served with radials. The Michelin X are the exact tire fit. They last forever so the price, high, is negligible over the life of the tire. You have found one major benefit of the car: smiles! Yours and the folks you see on the way. This is a happy ride. The name: Seetro - en. The diaeresis over the "e" means it is pronounced twice. Have a ton of fun with this car.
Don't buy chineese crap. Try the Burton cie. They do all kind of performance parts fo 2CV. The choice of color and design for the seats is realy great. Congrats to the ladies.
true, but not only Burton sales good components, for example by Mehari Club de Cassis you find most from the components new and some (chassis et body parts) made with the original Citroën machines approved by Citroën, , but for some parts you find quality components + in parallel "first price parts" (chinese stuff), for example tires: the original and excellent Michelin tires are very expansive because made in small number in specialized french factory, and you have chinese tires 4x less expansive: YOU choice what YOU need, but never forgott that a old car is not a small budjet car if you will drive it safe and joyfull...
i could be the gears on camshaft and crankshaft - they are the connection between your ignitionmodule and the flywheel ..., please check if the crankshaft can be pushed towards the clutch or to the front. the gears are diagonal, if you move the crank to the front, the timing moves for about 1 degree, this means the front main bearing of the crank is worn out.
When they put cam in at factory a lot were 1 tooth out so when you do static timing set it then turn engine 1 full turn when light comes on check timing mark on flywheel, reset it 1/2 way between the two. another full turn and it should then match up.
Hello from France ! I'm new to your channel but I find your work awesome ! A little note : in France, CV means Horse (for administration horses, related to the car power, weight, etc...). So, you could translate 2CV by 2 Horses !! Anyway, keep on bringing us your great work on TH-cam ! Regards.
Me again. Drove one for twenty years plus. Never ever broke down or left me stranded. As for your ignition/running issues, you've checked everything that I would have and then some. Don't think an electronic ignition unit available back when, but did install a "permatune". Basically a voltage booster. Converted a lot of vintage vehicles from herky/jerky to smooth runners over the years.
Wow, I can't imagine driving one of these for 20 years. How many miles did you average a year in it? Thanks for the info, I will keep digging in at it. I have a non contact tach on the way to help dial it in
Great fun, you really need to get the two cardboard tubes from heat exchangers to inner wings, they run without of course but can overheat if it's warmish where you live.
Both hands on the steering wheel ! These cars have some clever engineering, I love them . It’s not that it’s small it’s just American cars are too big .
Well documented, really useful. I had the same timing issue (jumpy ignition moment) but on a series 3 Land Rover. It was a worn distributor (a French ducellier). I could not think of anything that would cause this after all the fixes you have done.
I have owned three new 2CV6s 1978, 1982 & current 1990 Charleston. Good you put in electronic ignition and coil.. My mechanic fitted a new Chinese carbie as new Solexs were not available. It was rubbish. Engine would not idle properly. A Welch plug fell out. Threw is away and got rebuild kit for the original carbie. French built 2CVs 1948 to 1987 are better quality than Portuguese 2CVs 1988 to 1990.. especially rust. Best place for parts is Burton 2CV Parts in the Netherlands. I am currently having a Burton Big Bore 652 cc rebuilt engine fitted to replace the 602cc original after 188,000 miles. 20% more power and torque. Your car still seems to lack performance for a well running 602cc engine. Should be quite sprightly and give a top speed on the flat of 68 mph. Big 2CV smiles from Australia
You are spot on with the rubbish Chinese carbs. I had an intermittent air leak in mine that made all kinds of trouble. That 652 sounds like a lot of fun. I have since sold this 2CV, but I would very much like to own another someday. I have a buddy in Argentina who is trying to source a good one to send my way.
Delighted to say I just bought this car. Our family were all set to move from Seattle to France this year and thanks to COVID, we've had to shelve those plans. So the next best thing is to bring a little bit of French chic into our lives here. I have no doubt it will put a smile on our faces. Gonna keep it a secret from the rest of the family and spring it on them somehow. I'll update the thread with the outcome of the idle / timing issues.
Ben! glad to see you hear. I hope you are enjoying it. I was going to pass on some of the comments, but it looks like you have seen them. Email me if you post any videos with it and i'll shout it out for people to see.
@@AustinCoulson Yea still working on the car. I'm documenting how things are going and I'll post video(s) when I have them. So far I have the rear brakes done and fixed a bunch of electrical gremlins. Had to swap out one of those funky rear brake lines which was like doing keyhole surgery. Fuel tank still had a ton of dirt and varnish to give up so had to pull that and clean up the carb (twice). Got it idling perfectly with solid timing, but still getting a slight lean condition. AFR gauge showing slight enrichment with starter fluid sprayed around the intake manifold, but not enough to make me think it's cracked. Going to pull it off regardless and examine it more closely. It's either that or the carb. Kenji from 2cvsource says the eBay carbs are usually factory seconds so something of a crapshoot. Rebuilt that Solex that came with the car, but same issue. Will tackle the front brakes with the intake manifold stripped off.
Hi. For your timingproblem you should check if the crankshaft is moving from front to back. There are diagonal gears (one on the crank an two on the camshaft). If one of these shafts are moveable along their axes (sometimes the crankshaft up to 5mm) the timing changes as you mentioned. In Video 1 you told you had to ajust the clutch, which is common for this problem, because the crankshaft ist pressed to the front. Only Solution without special equiment is changing engine or crankshaft.
Well, you can't just change just the crank, since the connecting rods are pressed on. That's how they got around that technical challenge in the 40's and the French never bothered to change it...
What a Fabulous video, and You are an Amazing Mechanic! I wish you lived near me, then I could have all kinds of "kooky" cars and let you "make them work!" Bravo!
Wow, thanks! I have since sold this lovely car, and the new owner has a channel if you would like to follow its continued adventures: th-cam.com/users/corrieb74
May i suggest that the ignitionswitchpart under the starting key may go bad and sent a lower voltage to the coil. Maybe you can test if its loosing voltage there and maybe therefor a weaker spark.
very difficult to get citroen engine to run smooth, i had a 1980 brand new that never run 100% the better run was with extra gas. anyway i enjoyed your video i went back on time, mine was same color and rectangular headlights also. i wish i can get a 2cv again is a very fun vehicle and easy to work on it. for now i'll keep playing with my 1970 VW convertible.
General comments. Maybe a new carb but it's Chinese and I would strip it down and check it through thoroughly for blockages and fit everywhere. Make sure that the base is perfectly flat. Lean condition could be due the leakage at the base. These engines work best when you rev them hard and keep the revs up. No need for top below about 40mph and swap between 2 and 3 to keep the revs up. First is just to get you moving or steep hills. Many of these have been around the World pretty heavily loaded so they don't need to be nannied. Se the change points marked on the speedometer face. Check the noise at rear SOON. If the PO or their mechanic had the rear drums off they might not have tightened them up properly. Ideally you should use a new nut each time and the torque is 220-290 ft/lbs. Yes, that much. Had the problem when I first bought my Dyane. Jack up the rear and check for loose drums. Speedo cable is from the gearbox so won't cause noise from the rear. You maybe able to find TDC with the rod and time it there or turn the engine plugs out and set the light by the top of the cam that way. It might be different and by setting using the rod might bias the ignition point to one of the cylinders. Yes. lost spark so it sparks both sides each revolution. Coil is actually twin units so each one is small and doesn't build up much voltage. Make sure you have the correct plugs.
I double checked the carb and used propane to check for leaks. A lot of the tuning issues seem like a vacuum leak, but I couldn't find it anywhere with the propane. The noise was right behind the instrument cluster, rear isn't making any noise luckily. You are not the first person to tell me these cars like to be driven hard and that's good to hear because it's quite fun to drive when I am pushing it. I'm still working on the slightly erratic timing, weak spark, speedo cable noise and rough idle, but she is getting there. Didn't know about the shift points on the cluster, that's pretty cool
it is a myth that you have always to keep the revs up. Only if you are going uphill or you are "racing". As long as you are just running along a ordinary street you can shift into 4th from 30 mph up.
Very interesting video, and my god how nice the seats are!. I think its alright to let the finish have some "user marks". Many people "overfixing", "overfinishing" their 2cv. After all are the cars made for using.
Most Electronic ignitions require a coil of 1.5 to 3 ohms. the points coil is around 5 ohms. Point ignition delivers about 25 KV to the plug Solid state units about 40-60 KV With a 5 ohm coil the voltage to the plug is likely less than 20.
Interesting. The electronic ignition (123 ignitions) recommends using the stock black coil with their ignition. That stock coil should have a resistance of 3.6-4.0 ohms through the primary winding, and 9-10k through the secondary. I tested the coil that was on it at 3.7 and 11.0k, and the new replacement coil at 3.7 and 11k as well. I had an old coil that was in a box of spare parts that tested at 4.2 and 14.2k
Enjoy your videos and the unusual vehicles you work on. I'm guessing you checked or replaced the spark cables and made sure the hot wire to the ignition coil carries enough amps regarding the weak spark. As far as the intermittent timing, only thing that comes to mind is some sort of wobble in the mechanical linkage to the points (now electronic ignition. Wonder if you could check the electronic ignition output to the coil with a scope to see if there is some sort of erratic pattern?
The plug wires are new. I have been surprised in the past what a difference new plug wires have made so when in doubt I always replace them. I checked the camshaft mounts that the magnets stick to for the ignition and it didn't seem wobbly, but I should recheck that. The wiring from the electronic ignition to the coil is all new, and i verified voltage to the electronic ignition. I ordered a non-contact tachometer so I can get a little more info to help in the diagnosis. Thanks for your help!
I know nothing about this car or its electrical gremlin regarding the spark issue -- but I wonder if the issue is upstream from the coil -- have you any way to put a scope on the alternator/generator and see if its output is dipping with some period that is propogated in the coil then evident in the spark? I will tell you what I know about troubleshooting -- if it is not the thing you are looking at, it may be the thing behind it. For instance, uneven chair seat? Look at the legs, not the seat. Water dripping from a pipe? Check a nearby fitting. That "next hightest-order compnent" approach has got me out of trouble and it works on many systems. Excellent video, thank you for sharing.
The erratic spark was from a wondering camshaft. The slight movements against the gears on the crank caused the timing to fluctuate. Very frustrating to find
Two things: 2cvsource.com is the website address for French Parts Service out of Seattle, Kenji is a great guy and has been in the business for a long time. The other site you should consider contacting is 2cvsrus.com, also out of Seattle. Axel and Uschi offer great support and are ALWAYS happy to answer questions when trouble-shooting. I'm curious as to what you find as my car does the same thing although it has decreased by adjusting the timing, cleaning and restoring the carb and sorting out the idle screw. Good luck!!! When you get to adjusting the clutch cable, I'd like to see a tutorial on that ;)
Unfortunately I have nothing to offer for your strange timing issue. Still am, as I've said numerous times... Completely in love with this car and really enjoying the build. this thing is going to look gorgeous when you're done! What's really interesting is lately I've realized, while I really like nice fancy cars... if I had a ton of money, my car collection would be full of a bunch of crap mostly nobody wants! Stuff like Festivas, Merkur xr4ti, Yugos, Escort GT's, 2 door Chevettes, etc.. I can't really say why, I just LOVE crappy old cars! LOL
@@AustinCoulson oh man! I got so excited when the Suzuki Jimny started to appear in my Google News feed! That like green one, I HAD TO HAVE ONE! Was so sad when read Suzuki didn't plan to being it states side.. 😞 I don't normally buy new cars, but would have absolutely jumped on that thing!
@@darinmbicknell Battery cables are new and every wire associated with the ignition is new from the ignition switch all the way to the spark plugs. New electronic ignition, new wires to a new coil, new plug wires to new plugs. all the connections were double checked and there's only a couple. maybe i should do another ground strap to the body. Right now the negative battery cables go to the transmission and the firewall.
Insuring good ground on the engine. Good idea. As I was reading your list of replaced parts, it dawned on me that you had replaced everything on the supply side.
@@libertyauto I did test the resistance from the negative battery terminal to the engine block when I was installing the new points and it was .1 ohm. When I was building the wiring harness for the Trophy Truck I did say its "always, always, always a ground" when something electrical fails on a custom vehicle. I will dig in deeper in that.
It might not be to your advantage to get low speed dialed in since the engine is only happy when running at 4000 to 6000 RPM. Just keep it floored and adjust your speed with the gear shift.
That motor is very similar to the one on my 2 CV 4 1976. And I could see the 2 CV4 marker on the back panel. So that engine is probably a 435cc, not a 602cc.
I ran the serial number on the motor and it came up as a 602, then I found the paperwork for it. Looks like about 5 years ago it was fitted with a Citroën rebuilt 602cc, but it did originally have the 435cc
my 2 horses was very incredible, i also did replace with electronic ignition system to reduce timing ignition problems, but i remember that this safe carbxas also a car to drive (really by the fact to know. the engine, lidyen and understand what he adk for and anticipate). Itnwas mike... this car has a life. In France, with this car, you are also very popular and ladies love it... it is not. just a car, but a kind of "cultural French kiss" car. it is: "the car". fot other culture typical cars you can compare with Jeep Willis in USA or Ford first models, who is very special, or first Land Rover for English cars... i mean , this is man, a very Frenchy car.
As you can see I have seen your video some time ago. One thing I did´nt see then, and I now can hear when you drive, is the hose for the air into the car. They are not original and give a lot of engine noise inside the car. If you use the original type, the noise will be dramatically reduced, especially on the driver's side. The original hoses are insulated internally with 10-12 mm foam plastic.
Check the voltage on your 2CV... is it 12v or 6V... or a combination of both?... some 2CV 6V were beefed up tp 12v but just for lights, starter etc... not ignition or spark.
Are you sure you have the 602cc engine ? The trunk panel says “2CV4” which indicates a 435cc engine. The way to confirm it is by the serial number. 2CV6 (602cc) are type AZKA, whereas 2CV4 (435cc) are AZKB. If your car is post-1979 it should be a 602cc (2CV6) since they stopped making the 2CV4 that year.
Hi Austin, Whilst I agree with you concerning the ignition system the problem you’re experiencing in fuel related. Don’t assume just because the carb is new that it’s set up and it appears to me at least that the float height is incorrect, that’s why you need to keep the choke on for it to run. Buy a workshop manual and set the float height and set the carb adjuster to a basic setting position, should say in the workshop manual. If you still experience the problem then you need to check the inlet manifold joints for air leaks, l believe 2cv’s have a habit of loosening off here and the motor draws air which is more noticeable at idle, that’s when the inlet manifold depression is at its highest.. Let me know how you get on. I don’t have a 2cv but I do own a DS and a traction, good luck.
I have checked everything you listed. I have a factory manual and verified the float height and the air/fuel screw factory settings, and I checked for intake leaks with propane. No change at all. Do you happen to know the octane rating this engine prefers?
Austin Coulson Not sure what it will be in the US but rest assured it will be low because it’s a low compression engine but I sill believe you have an inlet tract art leak. You mentioned the previous carb had a blocked off mixture screw, why, it appears as though this problem has been in existence a while and someone came up with the crap solution of blocking a mixture screw, I bet it’s the idle mixture screw, anyhow I digress. My next move would be to remove the inlet manifold and carefully inspect it for cracks and air leak evidence. The symptoms your experiencing are pointing toward drawing air at low rpm and killing the motor.
@@sambarrett9551 I agree that an air leak seems like the most probable issue, however I've never come across an intake air leak that didn't raise the rpm with propane exposure. The carb I removed had the line blocked off when it was cast. According to the manual, the first generation of the PICT 34 carbs came with that line blocked off and the later models had the casting drilled out and tapped for adjustments. I am coming up with a game plan for when I get some time to dig back in on it. Maybe a smoke test of the intake is in order.
Austin Coulson Ok on the carb then. That’s at least one area you can rule out but as for the propane test, that will only work if you are applying it to the area which is responsible for drawing air. If not then it will not change the rpm at all because it’s not being drawn into the motor. Did you check the inlet manifold gasket and manifold mountings because they are notorious for loosening off.
@@sambarrett9551 The way I do a propane test is to use a propane torch that has the long nozzle and open the valve but obviously don't light the propane coming out, then put the nozzle next to areas of concern for leaking (like the carb gasket and intake manifold gasket and on other vehicles, the vacuum lines and fittings). Back in the day, I'd see guys willy-nilly spray staring fluid over those areas but that always seemed super dangerous, and I was taught the propane trick probably 15 years ago and have been doing that ever since. If you have another way to test the intake gaskets, I am happy to try it.
It’s definitely not a 602 engine. The heat exchangers are straight as a 425, single carb and it sounds like a 425. They are fairly rare here, the 602 are much more common. Nice!
The engine has A06/635 stamped on it - so it is the 602 - but as you've noticed, it has a bunch of parts that were swapped onto it from the old 2CV/4 engine. I just tried installing a new muffler and of course it doesn't fit due to the heat exchangers.
I forgot: The problem with the idle and so on, is a "common" problem with the single-carburetor type. Some models were equipped with a two-stage carburetor and they works better and give more power especially at uphill driving and when acceleration. It is possible to replace, but you have to have a new inlet manifold. I think this is not the way for you as you just have bought a new singel carb. Regards Per from Norway.
It also requires conversion from a throttle rod to a cable. Tempted by the double barrel carb but with all the other parts required, it's going to be at least $600 which is a big expense. I'd rather make what I have work as well as it can first.
@@corrieb74 I agree that 600$ is expensiv. I have done this modification to an 2cv panelvan (ak400) but here in Norway it easy to get used parts. And of cause, I had all the nessecery parts "in my stock" after many years with 2cv. You also have to be a handyman because of the job with the trottle wire and installing of an another gaspedal built for wire.
the chinese carb looks similar to early Solex 34 used in 2cv6s, there are better quality carbs, argentinian Caresa (new) and not expensive. Spark plugs you'd get NGK BP5HS
2CV or deux chevaux means two horses.. that's about the power of this engine. two hp. when your ignition is all over the place means a bended camshaft. that happens in a light collision and the way to fix it is rebuild the engine with a new camshaft. now you can set the ignition right on the money for one cylinder but when the other one has to work it's way off. and as it is only a two cylinder engine you will feel that inmediately. so, put timing halfway the two cylinders and it will run. it is french after all.
Wow, that is very interesting and not something I would have thought of. I will take another look at the timing on the #2 cyl since they fire at the same time....
@@HanDekker I may not be understanding this correctly but I thought that on this motor (and all 2 cyl that I know of) the spark fires at the same time for both cylinders, it just ends up being on the compression stroke for one cylinder and the exhaust stroke for the other. That is why you can set your timing light on either plug wire and the flash of the timing light occurs at the same instance either way. That's also why the Harley coil works on these as they function the same way.
@@AustinCoulson remove ignition, remove sparkplugs (for less compression) and turn the engine over, if you see the camshaft wobbling you know it's bend. another thing you might want to know, the differences between a 2cv4 and a 2cv6 is besides the engine the gearbox as well. put an '6' engine in a '4' and the power at the wheels will be enormeous. make a inlet for two carbs and your 2cv is a 'sleeper'.. 35 years ago I had a few 2cv cars.. they wer my toys..
Not yet. I was going to get it all dialed in and sell it, but then Corona happened so I parked it until I have time to tackle it again. Next thing I am going to look at again is an air leak between the carb and head. I checked with propane, but all symptoms point to that.
@@AustinCoulson I'm sure you've fixed it by now, but the problem was often with the plastic spacer between the carb and the manifold, which cracks due to it being made of some cheese by product.
Nice 2 chevaux, I have the same colour in my 2cv 6 club from 1974. You must to put off this chinese carburetor, they doesn't work fine :( I made same mistake and finally I bought a carburetor from Burton and now it works perfectly and smothly. Other option, refurshing your old carburetor. Every chinese carburetor for 2cv works wrong... Also Burton carburetor works better than original Solex 34 PICS. Sorry for my english. I speak better french. Kind regards from Catalonia
The original ignition coils deterioate with age not mileage and even your replacement is at least 30 years old. There are better coils out there [dyna for example]
It's not tiny inside, I'd guess that you put too much padding in the seats. They originally had like mech and springy wire for seats instead of padding. Too bad you've already spent the money on reupholstering before doing research.
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Two things: 2cvsource.com is the website address for French Parts Service out of Seattle, Kenji is a great guy and has been in the business for a long time. The other site you should consider contacting is 2cvsrus.com, also out of Seattle. Axel and Uschi offer great support and are ALWAYS happy to answer questions when trouble-shooting. I'm curious as to what you find as my car does the same thing although it has decreased by adjusting the timing, cleaning and restoring the carb and sorting out the idle screw. Good luck!!! When you get to adjusting the clutch cable, I'd like to see a tutorial on that ;)
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Nice car. Owned one many years ago. No need for stress on the road, it will bring you everywhere, slow but relaxed. I was always smiling driving it, and still do when I see one nowadays. ❤ 2CV. Greetings from Belgium.
greetings from antwerpen
It is amazing for me to see this vehicule that my mother drove 25 years ago. Thank you. Note that this car came from Vienne department in France it is not so far from where I live. Congratulations for your patience and your dedication to make this 2CV (deudeuche as nickname) to live.
Hi Austin
I found your vid by chance.
I must say that I'm really impressed that you own a 2cv in the U.S and that you looking after it, talking about it without being sarcastic or mock it, you just appreciate for what it is.
As a French national I take my hat off to you.
I expect you fixed the issues by now. They're great simple car, happy driving.
Boris
Thanks! I have since sold this car, but I enjoyed it very much. I have always been a fan of smaller cars, and found them to be every bit as fun as larger, more powerful cars, just in a different way. If you would like to continue to follow along with this specific 2cv, the new owner is documenting his journey on TH-cam as well: th-cam.com/users/corrieb74
@@AustinCoulson thanks Austin I will.
I'm a real fan of the 2cv, I had three, one from 1966, as a 20 years old I wanted a radio in it, bought one not realising it was a 6 volts and the modern radio a 12 volts! Never worked 😅
One of many adventures I had with it.
I know then inside out, striped them to the last bolt and back together.
I subscribed to your channel 👍
If you ever buy another one and need help, don't hesitate to ask.
They do a van version, you could turn it to a pick up with a Citroën visa engine in it, it'll fit straight in, a common conversion this side of the pond.
Thanks for the entertainment 👍
@@user-xi5rw6iv3b I plan on owning another one someday. I have a friend in Argentina who is keeping an eye out for me. Are you familiar with the Pembleton 2cv conversion? I've always wanted to build one of those
Pembleton? Yes very nice, this would be the kit I’d go for, the Hoffmann kit is also a popular one, albeit more classical / traditional.
There’s a Dutch company that specialises in these kit as well as motor upgrades, you could definitely end up with a nice car and one off at that! Well on your side of the planet that is. If you decide to go for it, one word of advice, get a galvanised chassis, it’s their weak point.
There’s a company in south France, you probably know about it already, called 2cv Cassis they have every single part available for any models, they can even rebuild your car from zero (backed up and covered by Citroen, using original Citroen manufacturing tools) as long the official docs are available. I hope you will rebuild one someday 👍. Thanks 😊. Boris
36 years ago, mine had low compression, the engine was dead, it was a 1975 yellow model i bought from a hair cutter 4500 french francs. A lot of good memory with that car...The new seats are beautiful, very good taste.
Kid in shop... quiet on set. Wow he is great so patient.
Learned a lot from your video and would love to have been able to watch it back in 1988 when I had a 2CV6-Great engines once dialed in and can run flat out.Super comfortable too.I seem to recall that they were so well machined that they didn't need head gaskets.Always thought it was fascinating that a 2CV was one of the cars in American Graffiti.Thanks!
I'm French and I've spent some time in upstate NY. Always thought 2CVs were perfect for your lovely narrow country roads but I never got to see any there, sadly. When heavy rear wheel drive cars are stuck in the snow, these humble little workhorses just keep on going. Thanks for your videos.
Being from AZ I didn't think about this lil car in the snow, but with the fwd and light weight, I bet they do quite well.
@@AustinCoulson Turns out you'd be right! th-cam.com/video/vobsF1feHpE/w-d-xo.html
Watching this now ...thoroughly enjoying your explanation of timing , points and how these bits , pieces and adjustments work with and against each other ! Really like how you just drilled a hole into the exhaust to install an O2 sensor to get the pesky mixture correct !
French answer to a Beetle! Saw a lot of these when in Europe in the mid-'70s, always wondered what made 'em tick! Watching some of them being operated was downright Craziness!
Put a Lumination 123 electronic ignition on it. Also a good idea to fit a new solid state coil. Happy motoring. Never be without a 2cv, they are life changing.
I installed both of those, and they were both nice upgrades
I have seen a stray timing strobe like that on older VW Bug engines. I always just figured it was a crappy pickup for the light and since the engines idled smooth, I never pursued it.
For weak spark at the plug, (same old VWs) we would pull the coil wire slightly out of the distributor cap, not all the way out, but enough to make the spark have to jump within. If that improved the spark at the plug, we would then use that as confirmation it was the coil and replace it. I have no idea why that told us it was the coil, but was a reliably good indicator.
In case you skipped stuff like the door panel replacement because you think there is no interest, I for one would be. Watching a technician doing even "simple" jobs, one can sometimes spot little tricks that are handy, but previously unknown.
Thanks for you videos.
The interior door panel was 2 screws and not very exciting so I didn't film that. I should have shown the soft top removal, as well as the front end reassembly and painting but I got a little stuck during this video as every minor repair to the motor I thought would be the last. I couldn't believe how much she kept fighting me. I appreciate the feedback, this is exactly the kind of info that helps in the future while filming.
I love the info on diagnosing the coil, I have not heard that, but I will remember that in the future. I have read of guys running a Harley Davidson coil (because they are both 2 cyl, and both coils fire simultaneously to both plugs) but I did not want to stray away from originality yet. I was very surprised that the new coil didn't fix it after all I did.
awesome video! I really like your methods over measurements and how you diagnose the problems!
that was a great video
most of the things that can go wrong with a 2cv fixed by a guy who knows what he's doing
way better than a lot of guys who have big ego's and nothing else
well done sir, just make sure that the doesn't steal your car :-)
Enjoyed watching video today. The interior looks great! Enjoyed the test drive. Thanks for posting .
Burton is a good recommendation. 2CVSOURCE is excellent, too. Between the two of these suppliers you should be able to get everything you need, including the 602cc > 652cc conversion.
Tires: you will be better served with radials. The Michelin X are the exact tire fit. They last forever so the price, high, is negligible over the life of the tire.
You have found one major benefit of the car: smiles! Yours and the folks you see on the way. This is a happy ride.
The name: Seetro - en. The diaeresis over the "e" means it is pronounced twice.
Have a ton of fun with this car.
Great looking seats!
So nice. Looks like french handmade bag from Louis V.
Don't buy chineese crap. Try the Burton cie. They do all kind of performance parts fo 2CV. The choice of color and design for the seats is realy great. Congrats to the ladies.
true, but not only Burton sales good components, for example by Mehari Club de Cassis you find most from the components new and some (chassis et body parts) made with the original Citroën machines approved by Citroën, , but for some parts you find quality components + in parallel "first price parts" (chinese stuff), for example tires: the original and excellent Michelin tires are very expansive because made in small number in specialized french factory, and you have chinese tires 4x less expansive: YOU choice what YOU need, but never forgott that a old car is not a small budjet car if you will drive it safe and joyfull...
i could be the gears on camshaft and crankshaft - they are the connection between your ignitionmodule and the flywheel ..., please check if the crankshaft can be pushed towards the clutch or to the front. the gears are diagonal, if you move the crank to the front, the timing moves for about 1 degree, this means the front main bearing of the crank is worn out.
When they put cam in at factory a lot were 1 tooth out so when you do static timing set it then turn engine 1 full turn when light comes on check timing mark on flywheel, reset it 1/2 way between the two. another full turn and it should then match up.
So many memories from working on that engine.
Hello from France ! I'm new to your channel but I find your work awesome ! A little note : in France, CV means Horse (for administration horses, related to the car power, weight, etc...). So, you could translate 2CV by 2 Horses !! Anyway, keep on bringing us your great work on TH-cam ! Regards.
Very good job indeed. I got a 2cv too. Not a simple engine to tune. A world apart
Me again. Drove one for twenty years plus. Never ever broke down or left me stranded. As for your ignition/running issues, you've checked everything that I would have and then some. Don't think an electronic ignition unit available back when, but did install a "permatune". Basically a voltage booster. Converted a lot of vintage vehicles from herky/jerky to smooth runners over the years.
Wow, I can't imagine driving one of these for 20 years. How many miles did you average a year in it? Thanks for the info, I will keep digging in at it. I have a non contact tach on the way to help dial it in
Such fun cars - Not if you are in a hurry, but you can build enough speed! - Great fun on twisty roads too - trust the lean!
Great fun, you really need to get the two cardboard tubes from heat exchangers to inner wings, they run without of course but can overheat if it's warmish where you live.
Both hands on the steering wheel ! These cars have some clever engineering, I love them . It’s not that it’s small it’s just American cars are too big .
How do I keep both hands on the steering wheel with a manual transmission? Are people outside the US shifting with their elbows?
Well documented, really useful. I had the same timing issue (jumpy ignition moment) but on a series 3 Land Rover. It was a worn distributor (a French ducellier). I could not think of anything that would cause this after all the fixes you have done.
Ended up being a faulty new carb
Chinese made?@@AustinCoulson
@@erikg.2666 yes
Great looking Seats.
Very Nice video
Yay a new video. All the other TH-camrs I watched had new ones and I was wondering about when yours was coming out
I have owned three new 2CV6s 1978, 1982 & current 1990 Charleston.
Good you put in electronic ignition and coil.. My mechanic fitted a new Chinese carbie as new Solexs were not available. It was rubbish. Engine would not idle properly. A Welch plug fell out. Threw is away and got rebuild kit for the original carbie.
French built 2CVs 1948 to 1987 are better quality than Portuguese 2CVs 1988 to 1990.. especially rust.
Best place for parts is Burton 2CV Parts in the Netherlands.
I am currently having a Burton Big Bore 652 cc rebuilt engine fitted to replace the 602cc original after 188,000 miles.
20% more power and torque.
Your car still seems to lack performance for a well running 602cc engine. Should be quite sprightly and give a top speed on the flat of 68 mph. Big 2CV smiles from Australia
You are spot on with the rubbish Chinese carbs. I had an intermittent air leak in mine that made all kinds of trouble. That 652 sounds like a lot of fun. I have since sold this 2CV, but I would very much like to own another someday. I have a buddy in Argentina who is trying to source a good one to send my way.
I drive mine every day to work and enjoy every moment of it is a great car.
Delighted to say I just bought this car. Our family were all set to move from Seattle to France this year and thanks to COVID, we've had to shelve those plans. So the next best thing is to bring a little bit of French chic into our lives here. I have no doubt it will put a smile on our faces. Gonna keep it a secret from the rest of the family and spring it on them somehow. I'll update the thread with the outcome of the idle / timing issues.
Ben! glad to see you hear. I hope you are enjoying it. I was going to pass on some of the comments, but it looks like you have seen them. Email me if you post any videos with it and i'll shout it out for people to see.
@@AustinCoulson Yea still working on the car. I'm documenting how things are going and I'll post video(s) when I have them. So far I have the rear brakes done and fixed a bunch of electrical gremlins. Had to swap out one of those funky rear brake lines which was like doing keyhole surgery. Fuel tank still had a ton of dirt and varnish to give up so had to pull that and clean up the carb (twice). Got it idling perfectly with solid timing, but still getting a slight lean condition. AFR gauge showing slight enrichment with starter fluid sprayed around the intake manifold, but not enough to make me think it's cracked. Going to pull it off regardless and examine it more closely. It's either that or the carb. Kenji from 2cvsource says the eBay carbs are usually factory seconds so something of a crapshoot. Rebuilt that Solex that came with the car, but same issue. Will tackle the front brakes with the intake manifold stripped off.
Hi. For your timingproblem you should check if the crankshaft is moving from front to back. There are diagonal gears (one on the crank an two on the camshaft). If one of these shafts are moveable along their axes (sometimes the crankshaft up to 5mm) the timing changes as you mentioned. In Video 1 you told you had to ajust the clutch, which is common for this problem, because the crankshaft ist pressed to the front. Only Solution without special equiment is changing engine or crankshaft.
Well, you can't just change just the crank, since the connecting rods are pressed on. That's how they got around that technical challenge in the 40's and the French never bothered to change it...
What a Fabulous video, and You are an Amazing Mechanic! I wish you lived near me, then I could have all kinds of "kooky" cars and let you "make them work!" Bravo!
Wow, thanks! I have since sold this lovely car, and the new owner has a channel if you would like to follow its continued adventures:
th-cam.com/users/corrieb74
May i suggest that the ignitionswitchpart under the starting key may go bad and sent a lower voltage to the coil. Maybe you can test if its loosing voltage there and maybe therefor a weaker spark.
very difficult to get citroen engine to run smooth, i had a 1980 brand new that never run 100% the better run was with extra gas. anyway i enjoyed your video i went back on time, mine was same color and rectangular headlights also. i wish i can get a 2cv again is a very fun vehicle and easy to work on it. for now i'll keep playing with my 1970 VW convertible.
General comments. Maybe a new carb but it's Chinese and I would strip it down and check it through thoroughly for blockages and fit everywhere. Make sure that the base is perfectly flat. Lean condition could be due the leakage at the base. These engines work best when you rev them hard and keep the revs up. No need for top below about 40mph and swap between 2 and 3 to keep the revs up. First is just to get you moving or steep hills. Many of these have been around the World pretty heavily loaded so they don't need to be nannied. Se the change points marked on the speedometer face.
Check the noise at rear SOON. If the PO or their mechanic had the rear drums off they might not have tightened them up properly. Ideally you should use a new nut each time and the torque is 220-290 ft/lbs. Yes, that much. Had the problem when I first bought my Dyane. Jack up the rear and check for loose drums. Speedo cable is from the gearbox so won't cause noise from the rear.
You maybe able to find TDC with the rod and time it there or turn the engine plugs out and set the light by the top of the cam that way. It might be different and by setting using the rod might bias the ignition point to one of the cylinders. Yes. lost spark so it sparks both sides each revolution. Coil is actually twin units so each one is small and doesn't build up much voltage. Make sure you have the correct plugs.
I double checked the carb and used propane to check for leaks. A lot of the tuning issues seem like a vacuum leak, but I couldn't find it anywhere with the propane. The noise was right behind the instrument cluster, rear isn't making any noise luckily. You are not the first person to tell me these cars like to be driven hard and that's good to hear because it's quite fun to drive when I am pushing it. I'm still working on the slightly erratic timing, weak spark, speedo cable noise and rough idle, but she is getting there. Didn't know about the shift points on the cluster, that's pretty cool
it is a myth that you have always to keep the revs up. Only if you are going uphill or you are "racing". As long as you are just running along a ordinary street you can shift into 4th from 30 mph up.
Very interesting video, and my god how nice the seats are!. I think its alright to let the finish have some "user marks". Many people "overfixing", "overfinishing" their 2cv. After all are the cars made for using.
Most Electronic ignitions require a coil of 1.5 to 3 ohms. the points coil is around 5 ohms. Point ignition delivers about 25 KV to the plug Solid state units about 40-60 KV With a 5 ohm coil the voltage to the plug is likely less than 20.
Interesting. The electronic ignition (123 ignitions) recommends using the stock black coil with their ignition. That stock coil should have a resistance of 3.6-4.0 ohms through the primary winding, and 9-10k through the secondary. I tested the coil that was on it at 3.7 and 11.0k, and the new replacement coil at 3.7 and 11k as well. I had an old coil that was in a box of spare parts that tested at 4.2 and 14.2k
Im thinking your idle issue is the new carburetor. Ive seen several fails with aftermarket carbs.
Enjoy your videos and the unusual vehicles you work on. I'm guessing you checked or replaced the spark cables and made sure the hot wire to the ignition coil carries enough amps regarding the weak spark. As far as the intermittent timing, only thing that comes to mind is some sort of wobble in the mechanical linkage to the points (now electronic ignition. Wonder if you could check the electronic ignition output to the coil with a scope to see if there is some sort of erratic pattern?
The plug wires are new. I have been surprised in the past what a difference new plug wires have made so when in doubt I always replace them. I checked the camshaft mounts that the magnets stick to for the ignition and it didn't seem wobbly, but I should recheck that. The wiring from the electronic ignition to the coil is all new, and i verified voltage to the electronic ignition. I ordered a non-contact tachometer so I can get a little more info to help in the diagnosis. Thanks for your help!
Freeway ready? Well, I did see a few on the Autobahn, but that looked like a "take your life in your hands" thrill ride at best!
Paul Bowers 2CVs are the typical french farmers cars. They dont belong to the highways.
I know nothing about this car or its electrical gremlin regarding the spark issue -- but I wonder if the issue is upstream from the coil -- have you any way to put a scope on the alternator/generator and see if its output is dipping with some period that is propogated in the coil then evident in the spark? I will tell you what I know about troubleshooting -- if it is not the thing you are looking at, it may be the thing behind it. For instance, uneven chair seat? Look at the legs, not the seat. Water dripping from a pipe? Check a nearby fitting. That "next hightest-order compnent" approach has got me out of trouble and it works on many systems. Excellent video, thank you for sharing.
The erratic spark was from a wondering camshaft. The slight movements against the gears on the crank caused the timing to fluctuate. Very frustrating to find
Two things: 2cvsource.com is the website address for French Parts Service out of Seattle, Kenji is a great guy and has been in the business for a long time. The other site you should consider contacting is 2cvsrus.com, also out of Seattle. Axel and Uschi offer great support and are ALWAYS happy to answer questions when trouble-shooting. I'm curious as to what you find as my car does the same thing although it has decreased by adjusting the timing, cleaning and restoring the carb and sorting out the idle screw. Good luck!!! When you get to adjusting the clutch cable, I'd like to see a tutorial on that ;)
Unfortunately I have nothing to offer for your strange timing issue. Still am, as I've said numerous times... Completely in love with this car and really enjoying the build. this thing is going to look gorgeous when you're done!
What's really interesting is lately I've realized, while I really like nice fancy cars... if I had a ton of money, my car collection would be full of a bunch of crap mostly nobody wants! Stuff like Festivas, Merkur xr4ti, Yugos, Escort GT's, 2 door Chevettes, etc.. I can't really say why, I just LOVE crappy old cars! LOL
I'm with you. I'd have a Suzuki Jimny, a Crowsley Hotshot, a bug eyed Sprite and a Deloreon. I'd keep none of them even remotely stock.
@@AustinCoulson oh man! I got so excited when the Suzuki Jimny started to appear in my Google News feed! That like green one, I HAD TO HAVE ONE! Was so sad when read Suzuki didn't plan to being it states side.. 😞
I don't normally buy new cars, but would have absolutely jumped on that thing!
Have a look at the videos from Ian Seabrook aka Hubnut for 2CV rebuilds and timing and engine issues. A wealth of knowledge there.
I love your videos with your 2cv :-)
Harley Davidson bike coil. It’s a common mod in the UK.
replace the ignition coil by a model for Harley-Davidson, i heard a lot of guys complaining about the stock coils and it seems to be helpfull
I ended up doing just that and it worked great.
and for your spark strenght i would check if you have a resistor before the coil
No resistor on the 2cv, but the Forklift has one. 12v clean to the ignition
Connections? Cable condition?
@@darinmbicknell Battery cables are new and every wire associated with the ignition is new from the ignition switch all the way to the spark plugs. New electronic ignition, new wires to a new coil, new plug wires to new plugs. all the connections were double checked and there's only a couple. maybe i should do another ground strap to the body. Right now the negative battery cables go to the transmission and the firewall.
Insuring good ground on the engine. Good idea. As I was reading your list of replaced parts, it dawned on me that you had replaced everything on the supply side.
@@libertyauto I did test the resistance from the negative battery terminal to the engine block when I was installing the new points and it was .1 ohm. When I was building the wiring harness for the Trophy Truck I did say its "always, always, always a ground" when something electrical fails on a custom vehicle. I will dig in deeper in that.
It might not be to your advantage to get low speed dialed in since the engine is only happy when running at 4000 to 6000 RPM. Just keep it floored and adjust your speed with the gear shift.
The new coil is a dry one or a oil bath one? The oil bath coils are known to give a weak spark.
New one is also an oil bath
@@AustinCoulson And they are rubbish! I was the first to run a 123 (just out...ish) with a Accel Harley coil - perfect!
That motor is very similar to the one on my 2 CV 4 1976. And I could see the 2 CV4 marker on the back panel. So that engine is probably a 435cc, not a 602cc.
I ran the serial number on the motor and it came up as a 602, then I found the paperwork for it. Looks like about 5 years ago it was fitted with a Citroën rebuilt 602cc, but it did originally have the 435cc
my 2 horses was very incredible, i also did replace with electronic ignition system to reduce timing ignition problems, but i remember that this safe carbxas also a car to drive (really by the fact to know. the engine, lidyen and understand what he adk for and anticipate). Itnwas mike... this car has a life.
In France, with this car, you are also very popular and ladies love it... it is not. just a car, but a kind of "cultural French kiss" car. it is: "the car".
fot other culture typical cars you can compare with Jeep Willis in USA or Ford first models, who is very special, or first Land Rover for English cars... i mean , this is man, a very Frenchy car.
As you can see I have seen your video some time ago. One thing I did´nt see then, and I now can hear when you drive, is the hose for the air into the car. They are not original and give a lot of engine noise inside the car. If you use the original type, the noise will be dramatically reduced, especially on the driver's side. The original hoses are insulated internally with 10-12 mm foam plastic.
Good to know, thanks
Check the voltage on your 2CV... is it 12v or 6V... or a combination of both?... some 2CV 6V were beefed up tp 12v but just for lights, starter etc... not ignition or spark.
Only the oldest 2cv (375cc and 435cc before 1970) are in 6 volt, and this 2cv looks like a model 435 or 602cc after 1974
Are you sure you have the 602cc engine ? The trunk panel says “2CV4” which indicates a 435cc engine.
The way to confirm it is by the serial number. 2CV6 (602cc) are type AZKA, whereas 2CV4 (435cc) are AZKB.
If your car is post-1979 it should be a 602cc (2CV6) since they stopped making the 2CV4 that year.
It originally had the 435 but was changed to a 602cc. I verified with the serial number and the receipt from Citroen of the rebuilt 602
Great video 👍
Hi Austin,
Whilst I agree with you concerning the ignition system the problem you’re experiencing in fuel related.
Don’t assume just because the carb is new that it’s set up and it appears to me at least that the float height is incorrect, that’s why you need to keep the choke on for it to run.
Buy a workshop manual and set the float height and set the carb adjuster to a basic setting position, should say in the workshop manual.
If you still experience the problem then you need to check the inlet manifold joints for air leaks, l believe 2cv’s have a habit of loosening off here and the motor draws air which is more noticeable at idle, that’s when the inlet manifold depression is at its highest..
Let me know how you get on. I don’t have a 2cv but I do own a DS and a traction, good luck.
I have checked everything you listed. I have a factory manual and verified the float height and the air/fuel screw factory settings, and I checked for intake leaks with propane. No change at all. Do you happen to know the octane rating this engine prefers?
Austin Coulson
Not sure what it will be in the US but rest assured it will be low because it’s a low compression engine but I sill believe you have an inlet tract art leak.
You mentioned the previous carb had a blocked off mixture screw, why, it appears as though this problem has been in existence a while and someone came up with the crap solution of blocking a mixture screw, I bet it’s the idle mixture screw, anyhow I digress. My next move would be to remove the inlet manifold and carefully inspect it for cracks and air leak evidence.
The symptoms your experiencing are pointing toward drawing air at low rpm and killing the motor.
@@sambarrett9551 I agree that an air leak seems like the most probable issue, however I've never come across an intake air leak that didn't raise the rpm with propane exposure. The carb I removed had the line blocked off when it was cast. According to the manual, the first generation of the PICT 34 carbs came with that line blocked off and the later models had the casting drilled out and tapped for adjustments. I am coming up with a game plan for when I get some time to dig back in on it. Maybe a smoke test of the intake is in order.
Austin Coulson
Ok on the carb then. That’s at least one area you can rule out but as for the propane test, that will only work if you are applying it to the area which is responsible for drawing air. If not then it will not change the rpm at all because it’s not being drawn into the motor.
Did you check the inlet manifold gasket and manifold mountings because they are notorious for loosening off.
@@sambarrett9551 The way I do a propane test is to use a propane torch that has the long nozzle and open the valve but obviously don't light the propane coming out, then put the nozzle next to areas of concern for leaking (like the carb gasket and intake manifold gasket and on other vehicles, the vacuum lines and fittings). Back in the day, I'd see guys willy-nilly spray staring fluid over those areas but that always seemed super dangerous, and I was taught the propane trick probably 15 years ago and have been doing that ever since. If you have another way to test the intake gaskets, I am happy to try it.
It’s definitely not a 602 engine. The heat exchangers are straight as a 425, single carb and it sounds like a 425. They are fairly rare here, the 602 are much more common. Nice!
The engine has A06/635 stamped on it - so it is the 602 - but as you've noticed, it has a bunch of parts that were swapped onto it from the old 2CV/4 engine. I just tried installing a new muffler and of course it doesn't fit due to the heat exchangers.
I forgot: The problem with the idle and so on, is a "common" problem with the single-carburetor type. Some models were equipped with a two-stage carburetor and they works better and give more power especially at uphill driving and when acceleration. It is possible to replace, but you have to have a new inlet manifold. I think this is not the way for you as you just have bought a new singel carb. Regards Per from Norway.
I think you may be right. I sold this vehicle, but will pass on the info to the new owner. Thanks!
It also requires conversion from a throttle rod to a cable. Tempted by the double barrel carb but with all the other parts required, it's going to be at least $600 which is a big expense. I'd rather make what I have work as well as it can first.
@@corrieb74 I agree that 600$ is expensiv. I have done this modification to an 2cv panelvan (ak400) but here in Norway it easy to get used parts. And of cause, I had all the nessecery parts "in my stock" after many years with 2cv. You also have to be a handyman because of the job with the trottle wire and installing of an another gaspedal built for wire.
like the seats!
I really think your motor is a 435 cc instead of 602. The heat exchangers on your motor looking straight. on a 602 they are slanted outwards.
It is a 435,
My parents had one. It ran on leaded gasoline. Maybe it's a problem if you use unleaded ?
This one has the newer motor designed for 85-87 octane unleaded.
Good job.
Before you mess around with Idle or Power Problems , please think about a modern electronic ignition. Tom
Was the problem climbing the hill related to your timing issue, or is that just because it’s a small engine?
I was trying to push it up the hill in third gear, I could have downshifted and she would have been just fine, but I wanted to see what she could do
Austin Coulson did you ever try that hill with your Guinness Book of Records car? 😀
Rob Lane It's a small aluminium cast boxer 2 cylinders oil cooled like some motorbikes.
the chinese carb looks similar to early Solex 34 used in 2cv6s, there are better quality carbs, argentinian Caresa (new) and not expensive. Spark plugs you'd get NGK BP5HS
Very enjoyable and informative video. However, those seats, with vinyl, come the summer when you'll be wearing shorts you'll get very sweaty thighs!
This 2cv is currently having the opposite issue of being too hot:
th-cam.com/video/vobsF1feHpE/w-d-xo.html
2CV or deux chevaux means two horses.. that's about the power of this engine. two hp. when your ignition is all over the place means a bended camshaft. that happens in a light collision and the way to fix it is rebuild the engine with a new camshaft. now you can set the ignition right on the money for one cylinder but when the other one has to work it's way off. and as it is only a two cylinder engine you will feel that inmediately. so, put timing halfway the two cylinders and it will run. it is french after all.
Wow, that is very interesting and not something I would have thought of. I will take another look at the timing on the #2 cyl since they fire at the same time....
@@AustinCoulson they fire at the same time but ignition is twice per rotation.. left, right, left right and so on.
@@HanDekker I may not be understanding this correctly but I thought that on this motor (and all 2 cyl that I know of) the spark fires at the same time for both cylinders, it just ends up being on the compression stroke for one cylinder and the exhaust stroke for the other. That is why you can set your timing light on either plug wire and the flash of the timing light occurs at the same instance either way. That's also why the Harley coil works on these as they function the same way.
@@AustinCoulson remove ignition, remove sparkplugs (for less compression) and turn the engine over, if you see the camshaft wobbling you know it's bend.
another thing you might want to know, the differences between a 2cv4 and a 2cv6 is besides the engine the gearbox as well. put an '6' engine in a '4' and the power at the wheels will be enormeous. make a inlet for two carbs and your 2cv is a 'sleeper'..
35 years ago I had a few 2cv cars.. they wer my toys..
you might like this firm, the build cars on 2cv chassis: th-cam.com/users/BurtonCarCompanyvideos
Remember type of vehicles 🚗 while station in Vietnam 🇻🇳! 😀🚗😘 Mike from Missouri
CHANGE THE IGNITION WIRING SET, SPARK PLUG WIRES AND HIGH TENSION WIRE ！ ！
It would do a lot better with an aftermarket [dyna] coil plus electronic ignition
The original coils [which have got to be about 30 years old at least] deteriorate with age
check the carburetor fuel and air gicleur
Hi Austin, did you manage to get the rough running sorted?
Not yet. I was going to get it all dialed in and sell it, but then Corona happened so I parked it until I have time to tackle it again. Next thing I am going to look at again is an air leak between the carb and head. I checked with propane, but all symptoms point to that.
@@AustinCoulson I'm sure you've fixed it by now, but the problem was often with the plastic spacer between the carb and the manifold, which cracks due to it being made of some cheese by product.
@@bonniecrickle7499 lol, cheese byproduct. I like that. That sounds like something Citroen would have used during that era
Nice 2 chevaux, I have the same colour in my 2cv 6 club from 1974.
You must to put off this chinese carburetor, they doesn't work fine :(
I made same mistake and finally I bought a carburetor from Burton and now it works perfectly and smothly. Other option, refurshing your old carburetor.
Every chinese carburetor for 2cv works wrong... Also Burton carburetor works better than original Solex 34 PICS.
Sorry for my english. I speak better french.
Kind regards from Catalonia
You were right, it was a Chinese carb that didn't work right. I couldn't find one from France when I was working on this car.
They need to be rev high before shifting and go be slow on clutch...
you dont need to rev high, why?
ur timing might be out slightly?
The cam was actually walking back and forth causing the timing to become erratic
The original ignition coils deterioate with age not mileage and even your replacement is at least 30 years old. There are better coils out there [dyna for example]
Is it a 2cv4 or 2cv6
It has the 635cc engine now, but I believe it was originally a 2cv4
@@AustinCoulson ok thanks keep up the great work
it might be a stretched timing chain/belt
I thought about that. It's gear driven and has no slack. I should have mentioned that
It doesn't have any timing belt or chain ! ! it's gear driven !
@@anthonylee2158 yes the camshaft is placed directly under the crankshaft and gear driven
It's not tiny inside, I'd guess that you put too much padding in the seats. They originally had like mech and springy wire for seats instead of padding. Too bad you've already spent the money on reupholstering before doing research.
They offered them with those seats you described and premium seats that were thicker like the ones I have
500 rpm for idle or so..just before she picks up again...
He done the first jobs you would do last, points ect🤷♂️😂
este coche 🚙 hoy en dia de verian hacer lo higual pero electrico ,, por qué es un coche 🚙 🤗🤷♂️🌏
GRACIAS A QUE LLO UNA VEZ TUVE UN COCHE 🚙 HIGUAL QUE ESTE ,, PUDE ALLUDAR A MUCHOS AMIGOS A SALVAR SEN DE UNA CATASTROFE ,, POR ESTE MODELO DE COCHE 🚙 FUE EL UNICO QUE PUDO SALIR DE UN GRAN BARRIZAL ,, Y SUVIR UNA GRAN MONTAÑA 🗻 LO QUE NINGUN OTRO COCHE 🚙 NOOO PUDO HACERLO EN LOS AÑOS 1980 ,, Y EL MI DOS CABALLOS 🐴🐴 FUE EL UNICO QUE PUEDO HACER LO 🤷♂️🚙 UN CITROEN DOS CABALLOS 🐴🐴 Y LO HIZO POR SU MECANICA AMORTIGUADORES RUEDAS Y POCO PESO 🤷♂️🚙🐴🐴🤷♂️🤗🤷♂️🤗🚙🐴🐴🤗🤷♂️ ESTANDO ACAMPADO 🏕🏕🏕🏕 FUERA DE LA CIUDAD 🏙 POR LA NOCHE CALLO UNA GRAN TORMENTA ⛈ ⛈️ LA CUAL AL DIA SIGUIENTE EL UNICO QUE PUDO SALIR DE ALLY CON MI COCHE 🚙 CITROËN DOS CABALLOS 🐴🐴 FUY LLO ,, Y NO SOLAMENTE PUDE LLEVAR A CUATRO AMIGOS ALA CIUDAD 🏙 QUE TAN BIEN PUDE AVISAR A LA GUARDIA CIVIL PARA QUE ALLUDASEN AL RESTO DE MIS AMIGOS LOS CUALES NO PUDIERON SALIR DE HESE SITIO NINGUNO ,, 🤷♂️🚙🐴🐴🤷♂️
And again..they never ran perfectly...because of cable choke and gas pedal activation..and cable stretching over time
Two hands on the steering wheel and don’t ride the clutch .
Deux Say Vaaayy!
Air leak bro
Perhaps if you watch some French videos you’ll hear how to pronounce the name of this car !
Great video but I would never ever buy a carburetor from china - one day you will regret it...
That day was like 2 years ago. That carb was junk
Two things: 2cvsource.com is the website address for French Parts Service out of Seattle, Kenji is a great guy and has been in the business for a long time. The other site you should consider contacting is 2cvsrus.com, also out of Seattle. Axel and Uschi offer great support and are ALWAYS happy to answer questions when trouble-shooting. I'm curious as to what you find as my car does the same thing although it has decreased by adjusting the timing, cleaning and restoring the carb and sorting out the idle screw. Good luck!!! When you get to adjusting the clutch cable, I'd like to see a tutorial on that ;)