⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 4. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 5. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 6. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU 7. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2uUZ3lo 🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y 🔥Scotty Shirts and Merch ► goo.gl/pTAeca Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN Scotty on Social: Facebook ► facebook.com/scottymechanic/ Instagram ► instagram.com/scotty_the_mechanic/ Twitter ► twitter.com/Scottymechanic?lang=en
Scotty is multi-tasking, instructions on fixing his car, directing car traffic, giving airplane landing signals, all while talking through his video's. Thank You Scotty!
I worked at a Mobil gas station and repair shop for thirty years and understand everything you say and agree on everything I've watched so far! To bad people are too busy to maintain their vehicle and wait until it's on its last leg, I had customers that would tell me to do whatever I think it needs, and they had a very long lasting vehicle, but I was honest and they trusted me, it's almost impossible to find a good reliable mechanic, keep up the great videos!
It took my wife YEARS to understand preventative maintenance! Her attitude was “why fix it if it’s not broken? Just wait for it to break”. For years I tried to explain it’s around $25 for me to change the oil. It’s around $7000 for a new engine. Battery was another issue. You should change it around 5 years. I kept telling her it’s going to crap out on you when you’re 1000 miles from home 😂. Sure enough. Now she supports me with maintenance. In her defense, she did get 10 years out of that battery!
Really there's no reason to remove oil cap. If you think about it, your engine is vented through the air filter assembly and emissions control components. I was taught the same way until I became a mechanic 26 years ago.
Moua Xiong tf you doing on this channel if you take your car to get it’s oil changed? It’s the easiest DIY you can do for your car and if it’s the only thing you ever do to maintain it, it’s plenty to keep it going
@@ryanespinoza7297 I don't have a house I live in a condo with a bunch of friends. Obviously I don't have a fricken garage and a driveway. Not everyone has access to the tools to fix your own car.
Just changed my oil two hours ago ... used ramps, drained oil.... and my Malibu uses a cartridge filter that's easily accessible from the TOP, whether the engine is cool or hot. Scotty is dead on about the double gasket oil filter problem, to go slow putting new oil into the engine, and DOUBLE CHECK to make sure everything is tight and not leaking. You can't believe how many people have screwed up doing these simple steps, and new engines are expensive!
Sorry, I agree with this entire video except for using a 2 foot long breaker bar to tighten a oil drain plug. That's how you end up having to replace the oil pan after 50k miles because the threads are stripped.
Well obviously you don't put full force on it, but if you hold back and can tell roughly how much torque you are applying (as I'm sure a 50+ year mechanic would)... there's nothing wrong with that
Yeah Scotty is mostly full of shyt at this point. Who uses a breaker bar on an oil drain bolt? No amount of being careful with a massive breaker bar is gonna stop you from overtightening that bolt and destroying it. Just use a normal sized ratchet lmaoooo. RIP everyone who follows this advice.
Been changing my own oil for 7 years. Best tip I stumbled upon ⬇️ Crack open the oil fill cap before you drain the oil, don't remove it otherwise you'll create the potential for debris to get in. This allows for a fast smooth flow of oil, typically cut my oil drain times in half.
@@austinsharrett9073 I don't doubt one of these service centers with 1/2 dozen/more bays can do 60 oil changes/day ... but I understood the commenter to mean he personally has done 60 in a day. That's a really really long day.
A lot of of newer cars use a crush washer on the oil drain plug, it prevents leaks when it's crushed and it also helps prevent the stripping of the oil pan threads. Use one.
I've been changing my own oil for 40 years. I've never replaced a single drain plug gasket. Not defending my behavior, just stating fact. There have never been any consequences.
Oil filter removal tip Make a tin foil funnel to keep the engine clean. Some designs drip oil everywhere after the filter is removed. Newspapers or tarps help if you miss the oil pan.
I just learned the genius engineers at Ford located the oil filter, in my 2003 Taurus, DIRECTLY OVER MY STARTER! At oil-change time, carelessly removing the (horizontally oriented) oil filter will bathe the starter in luxurious dirty motor-oil dramatically shortening its useful life. The new starter installed on my car last week only cost $600+ dollars (including tow). Thanks Ford!
@@goodisnipr you are exactly correct about needing the air, this is the exact reason he is pouring wrong lol his way tremendously slows the rate you can pour, this is why I wanted to see if anyone else noticed
Scotty Kilmer channel: You're changing the oil wrong You're fixing your car wrong Don't buy a new car Don't buy a used car Don't trust anyone Don't do anything
You may laugh, but we have in our kits old Woollen socks with the toe or foot cut off. When reaching in past hot parts or pipes, sliding the sock on your arm and palm enables you to not get burnt when near hot areas. As the best oil to drain is one warm enough to get it to its thinnest viscosity. Loosen the oil cap to enable the oil to escape cleanly or it may do the ole gloop surge gloop and mess up you and the floor! Finally when filling with new oil always pull the dipstick so that trapped air will not try and push past the oil filler cap entry and create the mess Scotty has warned of. It allows the oil to get past pooling inside the head but instead to go easily down the drain ports back to the sump. All my techs have followed these guidelines and have kept themselves, our customers engine bays and my floors safe & clean!
Yep, the oil should be warm when it is changed....flows better and does not take as long to drain. Wear protection on hands and eyes if you are crawling under a car. Doing an oil change or other work under a car is much better on a lift. Scotty is just a shade tree mechanic. I've crawled under lots of cars, but would have rather had a lift. Now there are good electric ones that are worth the investment if you do a lot of car work, even at home.
@Mark Godfrey Ha ha, I rather you buy me a lift (and a larger garage). PS: Being a shade tree mechanic does not mean they are not competent, just that they are not working in an enclosed shop environment, which often includes a lift of some sort. Cheers.
I can't think of the last time I changed the oil plug gasket. Never a drip/leak/residue, so it seems to do just fine. Fun to watch you work on a clone of our minivan though, at least the engine, headlights, and most of the bay.
One thing I noticed @ 2:35 & he forgot to mention was he put a date (& probably the mileage) on the oil filter with a sharpie, which is an outstanding idea!
Jason Jackson or just write it in your service records, on a piece of paper in your glovebox, or anywhere handy really. I mean it’s not a terrible idea to write it on your filter, but unless it’s seeable from the top like his, which I’m sure you must know isn’t very common, in order to see when your last change was done, you’ll have to jack up your vehicle and look underneath it. Seems like way too much trouble to go to for that.
There is a reason to use synthetic if you are far enough north as I am. Synthetic doesn't get quite so viscose as standard oil under extreme cold conditions. My Yaris has a fairly weak starter motor, and the synthetic made a tremendous difference.
Lol that probably is a $300 car now I think he bought it brand new. And I subscribe to the therapy that it doesn't matter what kind of oil you use, as long as you change it, and change it often
I always change my oil hot.because I agree about the sediments being suspended...also tighten the oil filter hand tight then I snug up on it about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a 3/8 drive ratchet useing one of those cup style oil filter wrenches...I don't trust hand tight but never over tight.
Thank god someone called that out. Drives me insane that people don't know how to pour oil out of a gallon jug. Same thing with lacquer thinner. You pour with the opening at the high point, not the low. Gotta let a void develop for air to pads to avoid the glug glugs.
@@mattodonnell9182 Some folks just love a good glug glug glug glug glug and fun to watch the oil splatter. Even better if you get some in your eyes. Scotty uses his sunglasses for eye protection.
Recommend adding as much oil as you can to the new filter before installing unless it goes on sideways. Also recommend torquing oil drain plug if you are a noob. We old guys know how tight it should be by feel. Extension bar for loosening perhaps but not for tightening as it's easy to overtighten. Use a torque wrench when unsure.
I've been driving and maintaining vehicles 40 years now without this guy's help, change the oil every spring and fall religiously regardless of how many miles blah blah blah, zero engine problems so I must know something 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
I've been changing my own oil for the last 18 years and I've never changed the drain plug gasket. I don't even care to check if it had one or not and I've never had problems with leaks. Leave it to Scotty to make me worried about my oil changes from now on...... Because of course I'm doing it wrong.
There was one car that has a copper washer. The thing was like $3 a pop. That's as much as a cheap Fram filter! It was soft enough to deform when the plug was properly torqued. I learned to file it flat again very carefully and polish with a diamond stone, and I got up to more than a dozen changes on the same washer before going to a quick stop, where they just threw on a steel washer, and I was like -- WTF, why was the mfg use the copper one in the first place?!
1) Fill the new filter 50% with new oil, oil pressure builds faster on your first start. 2) You can get 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum at Wally World for $25.
This is an old wives tale. The amount of oil left is negligible. This was true a long time ago but not any longer. All that oil is filtered anyway. Todays filters are many times better than the old days.
@@ianhalford5064 I'd say the 2/5ths rules here. Fact is its all hot when you shut the car off. What ever will drain into the pan is there when engine is cold. In a five quart car what might there be maybe 1/4 cup left in there? I have never worried about it and never will.
@jayman You're 100% correct I spent like 2 min typing the same thing before seeing you beat me to it. NOT so sure id want Scotty changing the oil in my cars
Does anyone actually read anymore? Do you know what 5W-30 means? If you do, you will realize that engine oil has viscosity modifiers in it. That means that it is a lower viscosity when cold. That’s what the 5W means, 5 is the weight and W is winter, or cold. 30 shows that the oil is higher viscosity (thicker) at operating temperature and thinner (lower viscosity) when cold. What does this all mean to you, you might ask? When it comes to oil changes, do like Scotty says, if it’s hot, let it cool. Even used, it’s going to be thinner when cold. Yeah, I know, everything else in the world gets thinner when hot and thicker when cold. The reason above is why engine oil costs so much. I like to put some fresh oil, or some additive, in before the change if it’s already low. Fill it up with good oil and run it for a few days or even just hours, then change it. I hope that the fresh oil (with detergents) breaks up some crap somewhere and leaves it cleaner inside. Doesn’t hurt, that’s for sure.
just depends on how your oil filter is positioned. Some oil filters go on with the threads facing downwards and the sealed side of the fliter pointing upwards. If you were to fill an oil filter with oil in that sort of application you will spill oil everywhere as you are trying to screw on that oil filter because gravity will be pulling the oil out. With oil filters that are positioned the opposite way, then yes you can fill with oil before installing. There are even some applications that are halfway in between or sideways and some that are tilted.
C Hansen, Correct -- the capacity does not change, but the amount that drains out does, depending on temperature and time left draining. Checking the level is easy so why not do it? Overfilling should be avoided, and if the level is low when checked a week later, how could you be sure whether it had been correct or low right after refilling if you had not checked it then?. smh
It's a crush gasket, so every time it's used it forms a fresh seal. If you don't change it you risk some leakage. But if you aren't leaking anything, then you're probably fine. But I'm sure you know this.
The oil you want to drain should still be warm though. And if the design allows it, put at least some new oil in the filter, as well as on the new filter gasket. Obviously, you can't put much in an oil filter that mounts near the horizontal, but one that points down is good. The reason for this is that there is less delay in the oil getting circulated. Of course, that small volume of oil won't be filtered, but a good quality oil should not need filtering anyway when it is just put in the motor straight from the container. Oil drain plugs have a specified torque setting, so use torque wrench until you know the 'feel" of how much to tighten it. I would not recommend using a "breaker bar" to tighten the sump drain plug back up. Use a short ring spanner or similar, so you don't over tighten and possibly strip the thread. It is also good practice not to fill up just assuming the engine will take all the recommended 5 litres or whatever. For a five litre capacity, pour in 4.5 litres, run the car for a few minutes, and check the dip-stick again. There could be a reason why it won't take the full amount, like doing the oil change on a slope. A few cars can have more than one sump drain plug-some older models of the Honda accord come to mind. This is because a few cars may have a common sump for the engine and transmission. It is a routine and simple process, but as Scotty demonstrates, don't be too casual or careless doing it, or you could end up damaging something, and having an expensive repair bill. If the oil is too warm [you are wearing gloves right?], then let the sump plug fall into the oil. You can always fish it out with a magnet later.
Not only do I wipe my funnel, I stick a rag in it to keep the bugs out of it. It hangs on a hook in my garage and for some reason, bugs like the flavor of my motor oil.
I’m 18 and love cars but I don’t have the knowledge when it comes to these sort of things so your videos are really teaching me! Informative and really entertaining thank you.
I knew it! I was doing it right and everybody was telling me "you're doing it wrong " I pour the oil on "top" of the engine, not in it! It makes it shiny and rust free. 👌👍🇺🇸🐴
I use super tech full synthetic (or whatever full syn is on sale) and always a Mobil 1 filter. I’ve never went 10,000 miles between oil changes. I’ve went as far as 8,000, but 5-6k is what I stick with.
I use valvoline ,whats a couple more $$ ? Oil is the life blood of your engine. Dont drive as much as i use too. But change my oil in the spring, before it gets hot, and fall ,before it gets cold . Fjlter every time. Rotate tires every 2,3 oil changes. 5k is a nice round #. I remember when it was 3 ,000 now most books are 7500. I split the difference round 5
Reassurance from Scotty I've been doing this right for fifty years. There's a reason my engines and turbochargers are so reliable. It aint luck! When I buy a used car always at the right price, irrespective of what the owner or seller tells me, I always drop the old oil at first opportunity. That wodge of invoices is NOT reliable proof that Oil and Filter was changed last week in previous ownership. The condition of the old stuff on the Dip Stick does not always support that. A quick wipe over the old oil filter with a clean rag can have it looking like a new one just fitted... 'appens. I always write the Mileage on the Filter when I change it. I service all my family's cars and cannot remember all that stuff. I always put a sticky label somewhere in the engine compartment with details of the oil change, dates, mileage and Oil Grade used. Servicing my own and my family's cars has over many years saved us a fortune in servicing costs. Plus the bonus of knowing the job has not only been done, but done properly. Here's something I do with cheap old cars but otherwise tidy cars bought with Oil that looks and runs like black Treacle. I drop the Oil HOT and leave drain plug out overnight .. there will still be the regular drip as the old stuff continues to work down and out of the engine even in the next morning. There will still be LOTS of old contaminated sludge lurking in the engine including old burnt oil varnish like residue on Cam Followers and other key components. That means noisy slow to return "tappets" and other parts of the Valve Gear. I must stress that I am NOT recommending this, only that it works for me with old cars with uncertain maintenance programmes in previous ownership. Here's what I do since a wiser car guy than I told me about back in the day. I replace the drain plug in the Sump/Oil Pan and fill the engine with DIESEL FUEL to the correct level. Then use the car gently for say twenty-thirty miles, then drain the Diesel Fuel ( which is Oil as Diesels are known as Oil Burners for good reason ) HOT. The first time I did this I was amazed at the muck that the Diesel Fuel flushed out which would otherwise remain in the engine and contaminate the fresh new oil. The Diesel Flush means that the oil is still clean and clear on the dipstick for some hundreds of miles later. The simple drop and fill Oil Change will see the fresh engine oil black soon after starting from contaminants still lurking in the engine.. It has worked for me many times. That noisy valve gear is now a near silent rustle sound. Throttle response is better and even fuel consumption improves. Never done that with the new cars I've bought of course. I always service my cars myself from day one new so know they've been well looked after. I have known passing neighbours when seeing the oil drained from my cars bought new, have told me they would not hesitate to put my old oil in their cars' engines. I do change engine oil at half the manufacture recommended. As Scotty rightly often reminds us, good quality Oil is far less expensive than a replacement engine. Keep up the good work Scotty. I'm off to ring dat Bell .. ;-))
@@Saltinator - the filter mounted horizontally. Good luck getting the filter on without it spilling all over the engine and undercarriage. I had a Toyota V6 and the filter was always fairly empty/dry when I pulled it.
On that particular engine yes. I have one. There's maybe a 1/2 depth from the filler hole to the top of the head. Putting the oil in too fast will result in it spilling over the top of the valve cover beneath that plastic cover, making a mess.
My father taught me to always fill the new filter with clean oil before screwing it on so the engine isn't running dry while it pumps the new oil from the pan through the filter...just a thought lol
Jason Rebello it’s optional. You can do it if the oil filter sits vertically. But Scotty’s Lexus here is side ways and other cars are upside down so Scotty couldn’t do pre fill the filter.
Should pre coat the oil filter with some oil..i fill the oil filter up twice with the clean oil before putting it on the car...will help with any dry start problems....been doing this for about 50 years now and never a problem....
I will say that I have broken the rule of using the proper oil. My oil cap on my 1999 Nissan Maxima says 5W-30. I’ve owned the car for the last 16 years, and have used Mobil 1 0W-30 for that entire time. Bought the car in 2004 with 70,000, and now has 320,000. I haven’t had any issues. Also, 5 quarts of Mobil 1 @ Walmart is like $22.00. Combine that with a Mobil 1 oil filter for $10.00, and I’d say a $32.00 oil change is not bad. :)
So count the turns. Once hand tight only turn a little more. It doesn't take a lot of force. You just have to use a little sense. Or you can choke up on the bar.
@@murph1414 I've worked with guys who didn't know the difference between pounds, ounces and Newtons. If I have to use a breaker bar to loosen it, then why clutter my work area with another tool to tighten it just because someone else doesn't know how torque works or how to count turns? I get your meaning, but I'm also not acting as though I don't know how to turn a bolt just because someone else doesn't.
James Murphy no point me buying a torque wrench when a ring spanner or socket with breaker bar or ratchet can do the same job. Nipping bolts/nuts with any of the said tools is not hard, you’d be pretty pedantic not to use them. Scotty clearly wasn’t being He-Man when tightening. Its like telling people to wear gloves to change the oil....meh if it ain’t hot I don’t even bother.
after watching him use stp products witch in testing is the worse on the market any good mech. knows this what does that tell u i been building race engines for years and they use straight grade oil and after a few worn in miles it is wize to go a heavy'er grade oil when the motor is starting to get worn out any mech. knows this .and ur suppose to put oil on the seal of the filter . and never ever use a breaker bar to tighten any thing good way to f things up and the way he moves i think he is a tweeker because they act the same way
I've always filled the new filter with fresh oil before installing - I never liked the idea of the filter having to be filled while the engine was running. Not sure if this helps the engine get lubricated on startup or not, but I did put 6ooK miles on an 88 Golf, which was still running perfectly when it got stuck in 3rd gear and I took it to the junkyard.
Not only do I fill mine at least halfway to prevent dry starts ( the condition where surprisingly most engine wear actually occurs), but I was taught to remove the filter seal completely and lube both sides of it
I will continue my use of Mobil1 Extended Service oil and oil filter, change it at 7k mile plus intervals. 95% highway driving, it’s a great set of products
same here, but found out recently why you could want to change them; the soft copper can seal up any really big surface defects, from the occasional poor quality control/cheap manufacturing of the mating surfaces, if your car isn't one with a defect its no problem. but the copper does go hard, temp cycling, and if your car's sump has an issue it might not seal, but the seal is still the same metallurgy, purish copper, so if you anneal them, heat therm up to a dull cherry red and cool slowly, they're good to go, even for poor sump mating surfaces and if you can't just check it after a few heat cycles (like a garage can't, which is why they replace them.)
I Love this guy Man lol!! You give me the motivation to take out renew every important part in my car 1 part at a time! And i know you would say if it aint broke then dont fix it but all these videos makes me want to slowly with time renew every part in my 2007 Honda Accord!
Scotty fails to say that if you need a breaker bar to loosen the drain plug, someone screwed up tightening it way too much. Risk of stripping the threads. One should always drain the oil when it is HOT, not cool. Use a real oil filter wrench, not a strap if you can.
As a mechanic I frequently had to chase the oil drain plug threads on the oil pans to get them to thread off and on without a wrench once loosened. Usually the drain plugs had yellow paint on them indicating that they had last been at Jiffy Lube. Don’t over torque the drain plug! I use a combination wrench and leave it under the car until I have tightened the drain plug. I have never had to replace the oil drain plug gasket or use an oil filter wrench on my own cars.
@greenman7612 - re: "HOT vs. cool," ehhh?!? Would "cold" be an option for you?! Draining when "cold" means the oil filter won't leak much when spinning off, yes - the old oil takes longer to drain = Big Deal !!
The first and last time I had my oil changed at Walmart, they used a torque gun to tighten the pan bolt. At first they claimed it wasn't their fault because I, of course, wasn't in their system (keep your receipts). Long story short, they replaced my pan and gave me 4 free changes, which I threw away in front of them.
Walmart. This story is true. Hard to believe yes. We bought four BF Goodrich All Terrain TA tires and had them shipped to walmart. They very carefully looked over my truck before accepting the job. They were concerned that I was trying to get them to put oversize tires on. The TAs are BIG. Same exact size so they say ok. First thing they did was break my key. The circuit board fell out in my truck under the seat. They handed me the pieces. Ok...I've got a spare key. Here. Then they say they can't do the work. Lugnut recall and they've only got 4 in stock. ? I uhhhh... Then they lost my keys. That's TWO SETS NOW. The bottom line is those tires peperwork got lost in the shuffle. We never got charged. Two sets of free keys too. I don't see how they stay in business. The tires were close to $1400.
as far as recycling the oil and filters... go to your local oil change shops n ask em if they mind taking em. we have large trash cans we fill up with filters and when full we have companies that come get them and our used oil. we never get close to filling our oil tanks nor does all of our trash cans usually get full with filters before being picked up.
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Liqui moly !
What is the site you use to get specs on your car such as torque specs for bolts etc?
Can't help myself I always change oil at operating temp. Amsoil and purolator for my Ford. Amsoil and mercedes oem for my w205.
Sweet Jesus.
Scotty another tip you failed to mention is to prefill your oil filter with oil I always do that so you don’t start the vehicle dry
Without his hands waiving I wouldn’t understand a word he was saying. Thanks Scotty!
Morse Code. Kilmer sign language.
Must be Italian.
Scotty keep the hands waving a bobble head with your waving hands you'll make millions then will miss you
Scotty is multi-tasking, instructions on fixing his car, directing car traffic, giving airplane landing signals, all while talking through his video's. Thank You Scotty!
His hand movements help me pay attention…. He’s a mechanical genius
I worked at a Mobil gas station and repair shop for thirty years and understand everything you say and agree on everything I've watched so far!
To bad people are too busy to maintain their vehicle and wait until it's on its last leg, I had customers that would tell me to do whatever I think it needs, and they had a very long lasting vehicle, but I was honest and they trusted me, it's almost impossible to find a good reliable mechanic, keep up the great videos!
It took my wife YEARS to understand preventative maintenance! Her attitude was “why fix it if it’s not broken? Just wait for it to break”. For years I tried to explain it’s around $25 for me to change the oil. It’s around $7000 for a new engine. Battery was another issue. You should change it around 5 years. I kept telling her it’s going to crap out on you when you’re 1000 miles from home 😂. Sure enough. Now she supports me with maintenance. In her defense, she did get 10 years out of that battery!
You're a nut man I've changed oil about a hundred and fifty times but I still watched your video because you're so entertaining
I love how this man waves his hands all over the place when he talks
Me too.... about forty some years,,,,,
And soooo loud
@@PeterSmith-ls7ut lol yeah does that guy know hes talking that loud?
Same here, plus, I wanted to make sure I was doing it right all these years, lol.
I was always taught to remove the oil cap for better flow and Drop oil while hot and particles are suspended in oil.
Noooooo
I was was told the same thing. Just got to be careful when your doing it and you’ll be okay.
Jacking up the front opposite of the drain Will help also. When Oilwas cheap I would run a quart of new oil through for a rinse
Always get hot oil in your sleeve and or face so your costimer gets scared to do it themselves $$$$
Really there's no reason to remove oil cap. If you think about it, your engine is vented through the air filter assembly and emissions control components. I was taught the same way until I became a mechanic 26 years ago.
Me: *exist*
Scotty: You’re existing the wrong way.
Isaiah Thomas hahah
Isaiah Thomas HAHAHAHA
Story of my life.
lmao
Yeah I've been useing 10w40 in a car that uses 5w30 (03 Camry vvti) I use it because it just seems to run better ie it burns less
What, no impact gun on an oil plug? 🤯 Cross-threading creates a better seal, at least that's what Walmart said after they did it.
This is what happened to my audi s4 took it to the dealer for a $3200 repair. Nice 50 dallar job went to a 3 grand.
Moua Xiong tf you doing on this channel if you take your car to get it’s oil changed? It’s the easiest DIY you can do for your car and if it’s the only thing you ever do to maintain it, it’s plenty to keep it going
@@ryanespinoza7297 I don't have a house I live in a condo with a bunch of friends. Obviously I don't have a fricken garage and a driveway. Not everyone has access to the tools to fix your own car.
@Ford Fanatic audi replaced the whole oil pan.
@@mouaxiong8618 You can change your oil in a parking lot...
You should clean that funnel before using it. No use putting dirt back into the engine.
Which funnel
@@mimiarumugam2011 the one he used
I noticed the grime on it. NOT on my oil change watch..
seems like the oil didn't touch it
Don't use a funnel. Buy the oil by the quart. No spillage like with the 5 quart jug.
Just changed my oil two hours ago ... used ramps, drained oil.... and my Malibu uses a cartridge filter that's easily accessible from the TOP, whether the engine is cool or hot. Scotty is dead on about the double gasket oil filter problem, to go slow putting new oil into the engine, and DOUBLE CHECK to make sure everything is tight and not leaking. You can't believe how many people have screwed up doing these simple steps, and new engines are expensive!
Why did I watch this when I know how to change my oil🤔😑
Because like me we just want to make sure 😂
Cuz apparently you’re doing it wrong
Coz you want to see if Scotty knows how
Because... SCOTTY!
@@Voiceovertehe yup 😂🤣
Me: Yea I change my own oil for years
Scotty: Hey! Your changing your oil wrong!
Me: I better watch this video just in case I'm wrong
LMFAOO oh wow he got me
Second time. I change oil once a year in my car.
Yep! He got me too just that way!🤣🤣🤣The good news is I was doing it right all along👍
Yeah, I missed the part where I'm doing it wrong. Thought he was going to come up with some mind-blowing revelation
😂😂😂😂😂😂 same!!!!!
Sorry, I agree with this entire video except for using a 2 foot long breaker bar to tighten a oil drain plug. That's how you end up having to replace the oil pan after 50k miles because the threads are stripped.
I'm surprised he didn't get a torque wrench out for that as well.
Well obviously you don't put full force on it, but if you hold back and can tell roughly how much torque you are applying (as I'm sure a 50+ year mechanic would)... there's nothing wrong with that
Yeah Scotty is mostly full of shyt at this point. Who uses a breaker bar on an oil drain bolt? No amount of being careful with a massive breaker bar is gonna stop you from overtightening that bolt and destroying it. Just use a normal sized ratchet lmaoooo. RIP everyone who follows this advice.
TRUTH!
Interesting
Oh man, I learned a lot. I learned that I am changing my oil perfectly, the right way.
Been changing my own oil for 7 years.
Best tip I stumbled upon ⬇️
Crack open the oil fill cap before you drain the oil, don't remove it otherwise you'll create the potential for debris to get in.
This allows for a fast smooth flow of oil, typically cut my oil drain times in half.
Haha, I did the double gasket thing once. I have 25 years experience. This guy teaches everything I learned from my dad. This guy is entertaining
Yep, you only do the double gasket thing.....once, cause it's a helluva mess to clean up. lol
@@ZombiesIII yup, starts gushing out.
Hi from Greece ! We love U.S. and love Scotty's video !
@Aaron Cubitt Yeap it's true .Οι αγγλοσαξονες ποτε δεν αγάπησαν τον πολιτισμό , οπως και οι ... ξερεις εσυ :)
Wish more people shares your sediment. They always bash the US.
Helllloooo Greece! Nice country you got there ! (America, Chicago )
I work at Valvoline, I do this 60 times a day. WHY DID I watch this 😂😂
Because YOu dOInG iT WRonG
For the entertainment!!! 😆
60x/day?
wow.
@@shaark92 not surprising at Valvoline
@@austinsharrett9073 I don't doubt one of these service centers with 1/2 dozen/more bays can do 60 oil changes/day ... but I understood the commenter to mean he personally has done 60 in a day. That's a really really long day.
Tightening the drain plug with a breaker bar is just asking for trouble
@Stacy Lynn Sutherland use a torque wrench that's what they are for
Use an impact wrench on full power. :)
When you do these things enough you don't need a torque wrench. You really only need one when you're building an engine
South Aussie Aquatics speedees employees be like^
Crossed threaded makes it real tight with a impact the best way lol
A lot of of newer cars use a crush washer on the oil drain plug, it prevents leaks when it's crushed and it also helps prevent the stripping of the oil pan threads. Use one.
Me: Clicks on video
Scotty: “You’re doing it wrong”
Scotty ... Stay tuned next week when I report on why .. Toilet paper companies are a rip off..
Me.....cant wait
"You're doing it wrong." -Scotty
Proceeds to pour oil into a dirty funnel.
Exactly ! I noticed that filthy funnel too.
Ya but makes sure to change the plug gasket 🤣🤣
Girl
@@akinidavid1653 ?
uses a huge breaker bar for that little bolt too sure he knows left from right but what if someone else isn't paying attention lol
Looks like I was changing my oil right this whole time
Ya so was I
Same here!!! 🤣
yep me too
Me three.
If you’re not yelling doing it, you’re doing it wrong 🤣
I watched to see if I was doing something wrong. Yep, now I need to lower my standards to do it right.
I've been changing my own oil for 40 years. I've never replaced a single drain plug gasket. Not defending my behavior, just stating fact. There have never been any consequences.
Me too😬
Never on mine, but on many customers vehicles.
Yep! Same here!
Never needed a 1-1/2ft breaker bar either.
Some gaskets need to be replaced every time, the crushable ones, others do not, like the one on my Mitsubishi Triton.....
Just bought ramps... been doing it with a floor jack for 40 years... so glad I got the ramps!
So I was doing it right the whole time !
"He who's name is gold, IS, gold." Pancho Villa back in the day.
You use a breaker bar to break loose and tighten your oil drain bolt? Yeah you've been doing it wrong
@@vviiper maybe if you have a super tight bolt a breaker bar is fine..but i agree use a normal wrench to tighten...
Oil filter removal tip
Make a tin foil funnel to keep the engine clean. Some designs drip oil everywhere after the filter is removed.
Newspapers or tarps help if you miss the oil pan.
Your right doing is still wrong...
Scotty: *swears in past two videos*
Also Scotty: *Leave a clean, non offensive comment below!*
Joshua Person lmao
It’s the heat in Houston.
That's the brand name of the fan
That's a big a$$ f***ing fan!!
I just learned the genius engineers at Ford located the oil filter, in my 2003 Taurus, DIRECTLY OVER MY STARTER! At oil-change time, carelessly removing the (horizontally oriented) oil filter will bathe the starter in luxurious dirty motor-oil dramatically shortening its useful life. The new starter installed on my car last week only cost $600+ dollars (including tow). Thanks Ford!
Also if you find your oil container “chugging” as your refilling, tip it in from the side rather than straight out the front! Much smoother flow
This is were he let's himself down, it's little school boy errors like this.
@@PeterSmith-ls7ut can’t teach old dogs new tricks
@@blackdynamitemn3259 like, trying to teach your granny how to suck eggs! He's doing it wrong.
Wrong.
There's a friggin picture ON THE OIL CONTAINER showing how to pour it properly.
It's not about getting the oil out. It's about getting air in!
@@goodisnipr you are exactly correct about needing the air, this is the exact reason he is pouring wrong lol his way tremendously slows the rate you can pour, this is why I wanted to see if anyone else noticed
Scotty Kilmer channel:
You're changing the oil wrong
You're fixing your car wrong
Don't buy a new car
Don't buy a used car
Don't trust anyone
Don't do anything
His motto is DON'T.
Buy an old Toyota... though..that yes.. Everyone just buy old Toyotas, already!
@SergeTheBlerge
You forgot “Doing THIS will RUIN your Car”
It's clickbaiiiiiiii t
You forgot Chevy
Straight to the point and no distractions. Great work!
You may laugh, but we have in our kits old Woollen socks with the toe or foot cut off. When reaching in past hot parts or pipes, sliding the sock on your arm and palm enables you to not get burnt when near hot areas. As the best oil to drain is one warm enough to get it to its thinnest viscosity. Loosen the oil cap to enable the oil to escape cleanly or it may do the ole gloop surge gloop and mess up you and the floor!
Finally when filling with new oil always pull the dipstick so that trapped air will not try and push past the oil filler cap entry and create the mess Scotty has warned of.
It allows the oil to get past pooling inside the head but instead to go easily down the drain ports back to the sump.
All my techs have followed these guidelines and have kept themselves, our customers engine bays and my floors safe & clean!
Yep, the oil should be warm when it is changed....flows better and does not take as long to drain. Wear protection on hands and eyes if you are crawling under a car. Doing an oil change or other work under a car is much better on a lift. Scotty is just a shade tree mechanic. I've crawled under lots of cars, but would have rather had a lift. Now there are good electric ones that are worth the investment if you do a lot of car work, even at home.
@Mark Godfrey Ha ha, I rather you buy me a lift (and a larger garage). PS: Being a shade tree mechanic does not mean they are not competent, just that they are not working in an enclosed shop environment, which often includes a lift of some sort. Cheers.
I can't think of the last time I changed the oil plug gasket. Never a drip/leak/residue, so it seems to do just fine. Fun to watch you work on a clone of our minivan though, at least the engine, headlights, and most of the bay.
One thing I noticed @ 2:35 & he forgot to mention was he put a date (& probably the mileage) on the oil filter with a sharpie, which is an outstanding idea!
Jason Jackson or just write it in your service records, on a piece of paper in your glovebox, or anywhere handy really. I mean it’s not a terrible idea to write it on your filter, but unless it’s seeable from the top like his, which I’m sure you must know isn’t very common, in order to see when your last change was done, you’ll have to jack up your vehicle and look underneath it. Seems like way too much trouble to go to for that.
@@joshuaford9714 agreed n for that matter anything U do ur car even simple fuse should write down on a record in small notepad for future reference.
done it for years.
@@joshuaford9714 just make a label and put it in your door jam stating next miles it has to be changed at.
Good spot Mr Jackson!
I already know how to change my oil, I'm just watching this for entertainment haha Scotty is the man!!
There is a reason to use synthetic if you are far enough north as I am. Synthetic doesn't get quite so viscose as standard oil under extreme cold conditions. My Yaris has a fairly weak starter motor, and the synthetic made a tremendous difference.
I love it when Scottie goes “ughhh” when he loosens a bolt
Me too
Scotty Kilmer owns the company that makes oil plug gaskets.
I'm glad someone in the comments is like minded, 😂 in pushing half a mile miles between my two cars, both have factory gaskets
Related to val
dorman or genuine toyota?
Scotty you rascal. Making money coming and going.
Gaskets are cheap, your motor is not!
*Absolutely nobody*
*scotty* I paid $300 for my Toyota Celica I change the oil with dirt and it still runs like a dream.
So you’re the guy who got my old 77 celiac eh🤢
Lol that probably is a $300 car now I think he bought it brand new. And I subscribe to the therapy that it doesn't matter what kind of oil you use, as long as you change it, and change it often
yea at the very least scotty should've bought High mileage.
I could see possibly issues with some ppl useing a 24in breaker bar to tighten the oil drain plug...
But he didnt use it to tighten the new filter, he only used it to loosen the old one. He only hand-tightened the new one.
@@unclebrucelive the oil plug, not the filter.
I always change my oil hot.because I agree about the sediments being suspended...also tighten the oil filter hand tight then I snug up on it about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a 3/8 drive ratchet useing one of those cup style oil filter wrenches...I don't trust hand tight but never over tight.
I do it but only because it's always in a bad spot. I have never over done it. But you need to use common sense.
@@snouter wrong! warm, not hot
Fun fact: Scotty's middle name is Toyota.
Why do people like this, waste their time?
It's Atoyot. Scotty Atoyot Kilmer.
Honda*
Toyota should make Scotty edition car
I heard Val Kilmer is his half brother.
Me: Sitting in my car.
Scotty: You're doing it wrong!
Scotty s wife....,,dinner is ready
Scotty. You cooked it wrong
Scotty's wife does a lot of things wrong.
For the love of God, please show people how to pour oil from a container sideways so it won't glug. Do a 60 minute video about it.
Thank god someone called that out. Drives me insane that people don't know how to pour oil out of a gallon jug. Same thing with lacquer thinner. You pour with the opening at the high point, not the low. Gotta let a void develop for air to pads to avoid the glug glugs.
@@mattodonnell9182 Some folks just love a good glug glug glug glug glug and fun to watch the oil splatter. Even better if you get some in your eyes. Scotty uses his sunglasses for eye protection.
Shop towels?
OR from the pour spout up top, high point. Our funnel is 5"×9" on top, catches any overspill
@@gerald7044 Na, just brain surgery and oil pouring. Nuttin else is important.
I’ve got everything except for the big*ss fan. Gotta get me one of those.
Harbor freight Labor Day sale 25% off coupon...
Got too much crap to fit a car in your garage?
I actually like that about Scotty
Want something better. Get a central unit fan with the motor that runs it. Heavy and might blow some tools away, definitely is cheaper to come by.
just wait for a super windy day, let nature be the fan
Recommend adding as much oil as you can to the new filter before installing unless it goes on sideways. Also recommend torquing oil drain plug if you are a noob. We old guys know how tight it should be by feel. Extension bar for loosening perhaps but not for tightening as it's easy to overtighten. Use a torque wrench when unsure.
What's the nm torque for a sump plug?
@@klang180
Sorry don't know. I just know when its tight.
@@klang180 Around 20-40 Nm. Depends on the car
Don't do this unless you never want to unscrew the plug ever again.
The recommended torque is often waaaaay too high.
Breathing air? You're doing it wrong!
Rev up your lungs!!
Most people do breath wrong, im not joking
@@FrostedZaibatsu wow
You guys are hilarious!
Honestly, I don't think I've ever replaced an oil plug gasket!!
I have replaced one exactly zero times. I have also had one leak exactly zero times.
Charlie S. I’ve replaced a couple out of the hundreds I’ve done. Never saw a filter gasket stick either.
I only replaced it if it was leaking before I changed it. Inspect the old one when you take the plug off. Looks ok it probably won't leak.
Charlie S. 280k miles of oil changes on my Avalon and still using the same plug gasket lol
heck, the "gasket" on my oil plugs are a copper washer...
I was taught for the oil filter and the oil plug to hand tighten, then give one quarter turn tight then youre good to go
That is what the toyota manual says
Thanks, me too. Anyways, proper torque is best.....or the old best way .
Well according to scotty just grunt like maria sharapova 3 times and your good
Yup my Suzuki manual says hand tighten only for the oil filter.
Isnt that right spark plug
I've been driving and maintaining vehicles 40 years now without this guy's help, change the oil every spring and fall religiously regardless of how many miles blah blah blah, zero engine problems so I must know something 🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺
I've been changing my own oil for the last 18 years and I've never changed the drain plug gasket. I don't even care to check if it had one or not and I've never had problems with leaks. Leave it to Scotty to make me worried about my oil changes from now on...... Because of course I'm doing it wrong.
I have been changing mine since I was a teen I am now in my 50's and mine never had one either it looks to be built in solid no other pieces.
I know..me too. Now I gotta ck. And get a new one lol.
Ive never even seen one. The plug i have just seals up aginst the machined surface. No all the plugs ive seen do this thats like 10 cars.
There was one car that has a copper washer. The thing was like $3 a pop. That's as much as a cheap Fram filter! It was soft enough to deform when the plug was properly torqued. I learned to file it flat again very carefully and polish with a diamond stone, and I got up to more than a dozen changes on the same washer before going to a quick stop, where they just threw on a steel washer, and I was like -- WTF, why was the mfg use the copper one in the first place?!
@@gdeangelkick That's a good question that I wish I knew the answer to!
1) Fill the new filter 50% with new oil, oil pressure builds faster on your first start.
2) You can get 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum at Wally World for $25.
Flaxseed Oil cant do that when the filter goes in facing up. Gravity will have it’s say first.
You cannot prefill a cartridge filter.
Buy the oil by the gallon or 5 quart jug.
I am buying the house nextdoor to where Scotty lives! He is the most honest mechanic in the whole world!!
Scotty’s next video:
Own a car?
You’re doing it wrong
Scotty: You are owning it wrong!
if not Honda or Toyota,that would be correct.Judging by ur thumbnail,you appear to be not wrong.(nice car)
Better dropping the oil when it's hot it's less viscous and will flow out easier, with less dirty oil still stuck to the inside of the sump
This is an old wives tale. The amount of oil left is negligible.
This was true a long time ago but not any longer. All that oil is filtered anyway. Todays filters are many times better than the old days.
So is that still true for older cars and bikes say mid 80s or earlier? Is it better to do it warm or is there 2/5ths of f*ck alls difference?
@@ianhalford5064 I'd say the 2/5ths rules here. Fact is its all hot when you shut the car off. What ever will drain into the pan is there when engine is cold. In a five quart car what might there be maybe 1/4 cup left in there? I have never worried about it and never will.
@jayman You're 100% correct I spent like 2 min typing the same thing before seeing you beat me to it. NOT so sure id want Scotty changing the oil in my cars
Does anyone actually read anymore? Do you know what 5W-30 means? If you do, you will realize that engine oil has viscosity modifiers in it. That means that it is a lower viscosity when cold. That’s what the 5W means, 5 is the weight and W is winter, or cold. 30 shows that the oil is higher viscosity (thicker) at operating temperature and thinner (lower viscosity) when cold.
What does this all mean to you, you might ask? When it comes to oil changes, do like Scotty says, if it’s hot, let it cool. Even used, it’s going to be thinner when cold.
Yeah, I know, everything else in the world gets thinner when hot and thicker when cold. The reason above is why engine oil costs so much.
I like to put some fresh oil, or some additive, in before the change if it’s already low. Fill it up with good oil and run it for a few days or even just hours, then change it. I hope that the fresh oil (with detergents) breaks up some crap somewhere and leaves it cleaner inside. Doesn’t hurt, that’s for sure.
I highly recommend filling the oil filter before installing helps cycle the oil as I started
The oil filter was going downwards it would spill out if he filled the filter... 🤦♂️
All u do for that is turn on the Acc for about a minute or so an start it
That s right man , i m doing this for years. To avoid engine to run dry , even for few seconds.
just depends on how your oil filter is positioned. Some oil filters go on with the threads facing downwards and the sealed side of the fliter pointing upwards. If you were to fill an oil filter with oil in that sort of application you will spill oil everywhere as you are trying to screw on that oil filter because gravity will be pulling the oil out. With oil filters that are positioned the opposite way, then yes you can fill with oil before installing. There are even some applications that are halfway in between or sideways and some that are tilted.
Doesn't work with filters that are open end down as this one was
YOU MAKE IT SEEM SO EASY .LOVE THE EFFORT YOU PUT IN TO TEACH US WHAT YOU KNOW .THANK YOU
WHY ARE YOU TYPING LIKE THIS
I only use olive oil (native extra) for extra protection. My engine sounds like a Ferrari and drives like a Fiat!
I wouldn’t use anything other than extra virgin in a brand new car.
RUS38 oh sure virgin extra on a brand new car makes sense!
Your cracking me up!!
I use peanut oil or pig fat oil, thy have high boiling point. Much better than Olive oil imo.
Bacon grease is good for a hung up lifter. I put a few ons in the gas tank, too.
Keeps away the neferious kind.
Nevermind actually checking the oil after you fill it
C Hansen,
Correct -- the capacity does not change, but the amount that drains out does, depending on temperature and time left draining.
Checking the level is easy so why not do it? Overfilling should be avoided, and if the level is low when checked a week later, how could you be sure whether it had been correct or low right after refilling if you had not checked it then?. smh
If you put in the correct amount for your vehicle there is no need to check it it didn't go anyplace, lol
@@Benni711 If you pour in the capacity of the engine that it calls for then that's how much should be in the engine so there's no need tocheck it
Scotty: Rev Up Your Engines!
Also Scotty: Don't Do It.
Another tip. Use six-point sockets or wrenches with the drain plug.
bingo
I guess I'm guilty. I never change the drain plug gasket. :-(
Me too. I never even thought about it.
It's a crush gasket, so every time it's used it forms a fresh seal. If you don't change it you risk some leakage. But if you aren't leaking anything, then you're probably fine. But I'm sure you know this.
@@AndyRock1 Yup, never had a leak....YET!
Same here & I've never had any issues
May the crush washer God's be with you.
The oil you want to drain should still be warm though. And if the design allows it, put at least some new oil in the filter, as well as on the new filter gasket. Obviously, you can't put much in an oil filter that mounts near the horizontal, but one that points down is good. The reason for this is that there is less delay in the oil getting circulated. Of course, that small volume of oil won't be filtered, but a good quality oil should not need filtering anyway when it is just put in the motor straight from the container.
Oil drain plugs have a specified torque setting, so use torque wrench until you know the 'feel" of how much to tighten it. I would not recommend using a "breaker bar" to tighten the sump drain plug back up. Use a short ring spanner or similar, so you don't over tighten and possibly strip the thread. It is also good practice not to fill up just assuming the engine will take all the recommended 5 litres or whatever. For a five litre capacity, pour in 4.5 litres, run the car for a few minutes, and check the dip-stick again. There could be a reason why it won't take the full amount, like doing the oil change on a slope. A few cars can have more than one sump drain plug-some older models of the Honda accord come to mind. This is because a few cars may have a common sump for the engine and transmission.
It is a routine and simple process, but as Scotty demonstrates, don't be too casual or careless doing it, or you could end up damaging something, and having an expensive repair bill.
If the oil is too warm [you are wearing gloves right?], then let the sump plug fall into the oil. You can always fish it out with a magnet later.
Great response. So much emphasis on the oil viscosity, but not paying attention to torque settings.
Hey Scotty you forgot to tell everyone to clean and wipe the funnel.
Dumping the oil in it cleans it out. Just let the engine filter do the cleanup.
Yep, that was not good.
I don't even clean my funnel as well
Not only do I wipe my funnel, I stick a rag in it to keep the bugs out of it. It hangs on a hook in my garage and for some reason, bugs like the flavor of my motor oil.
My wife cleans and wipes my funnel when shes done.
I’m 18 and love cars but I don’t have the knowledge when it comes to these sort of things so your videos are really teaching me! Informative and really entertaining thank you.
I knew it! I was doing it right and everybody was telling me "you're doing it wrong "
I pour the oil on "top" of the engine, not in it!
It makes it shiny and rust free. 👌👍🇺🇸🐴
Pancho planet America!!!!
I use super tech full synthetic (or whatever full syn is on sale) and always a Mobil 1 filter. I’ve never went 10,000 miles between oil changes. I’ve went as far as 8,000, but 5-6k is what I stick with.
I use valvoline ,whats a couple more $$ ? Oil is the life blood of your engine. Dont drive as much as i use too. But change my oil in the spring, before it gets hot, and fall ,before it gets cold . Fjlter every time. Rotate tires every 2,3 oil changes. 5k is a nice round #. I remember when it was 3 ,000 now most books are 7500. I split the difference round 5
0:53 Freakin Jiffy Lube places. Shouldn't have to use a Breaker Bar on the Oil Drain Bolt 😡
Jiffy lube doesnt use breaker bars on the drain plug I was there yesterday 😂
when you take it to a shop, everything is either way too tight or not tight enough.
Aint that the truth. I swear they freaking tighten those bolts to 50 ft lbs because theyre too cheap to put a new gasket on it
Consistently the best auto maintenance, repair and advice on YT.
Reassurance from Scotty I've been doing this right for fifty years. There's a reason my engines and turbochargers are so reliable. It aint luck! When I buy a used car always at the right price, irrespective of what the owner or seller tells me, I always drop the old oil at first opportunity. That wodge of invoices is NOT reliable proof that Oil and Filter was changed last week in previous ownership. The condition of the old stuff on the Dip Stick does not always support that. A quick wipe over the old oil filter with a clean rag can have it looking like a new one just fitted... 'appens. I always write the Mileage on the Filter when I change it. I service all my family's cars and cannot remember all that stuff. I always put a sticky label somewhere in the engine compartment with details of the oil change, dates, mileage and Oil Grade used.
Servicing my own and my family's cars has over many years saved us a fortune in servicing costs. Plus the bonus of knowing the job has not only been done, but done properly.
Here's something I do with cheap old cars but otherwise tidy cars bought with Oil that looks and runs like black Treacle. I drop the Oil HOT and leave drain plug out overnight .. there will still be the regular drip as the old stuff continues to work down and out of the engine even in the next morning. There will still be LOTS of old contaminated sludge lurking in the engine including old burnt oil varnish like residue on Cam Followers and other key components. That means noisy slow to return "tappets" and other parts of the Valve Gear. I must stress that I am NOT recommending this, only that it works for me with old cars with uncertain maintenance programmes in previous ownership. Here's what I do since a wiser car guy than I told me about back in the day.
I replace the drain plug in the Sump/Oil Pan and fill the engine with DIESEL FUEL to the correct level. Then use the car gently for say twenty-thirty miles, then drain the Diesel Fuel ( which is Oil as Diesels are known as Oil Burners for good reason ) HOT. The first time I did this I was amazed at the muck that the Diesel Fuel flushed out which would otherwise remain in the engine and contaminate the fresh new oil. The Diesel Flush means that the oil is still clean and clear on the dipstick for some hundreds of miles later. The simple drop and fill Oil Change will see the fresh engine oil black soon after starting from contaminants still lurking in the engine..
It has worked for me many times. That noisy valve gear is now a near silent rustle sound. Throttle response is better and even fuel consumption improves. Never done that with the new cars I've bought of course. I always service my cars myself from day one new so know they've been well looked after. I have known passing neighbours when seeing the oil drained from my cars bought new, have told me they would not hesitate to put my old oil in their cars' engines. I do change engine oil at half the manufacture recommended. As Scotty rightly often reminds us, good quality Oil is far less expensive than a replacement engine.
Keep up the good work Scotty. I'm off to ring dat Bell .. ;-))
@MG John - Whew !! Anything else you care to share with the audience ... after the long high school thesis on oil changes ??
YELLING... Scotty's good at it! Another great video.
Did anyone else notice the filter he took off had absolutely no oil on it or in it?
The way it's oriented makes it so it pours out more rather than having it straight up
Maybe or maybe I'm wrong
He could've put enough oil in it to still be able to get it back on without spilling any. Putting a dry filter on is never a good idea.
Yes! That's ALWAYS the messiest part of the entire job for me.
@@Saltinator - the filter mounted horizontally. Good luck getting the filter on without it spilling all over the engine and undercarriage. I had a Toyota V6 and the filter was always fairly empty/dry when I pulled it.
I bought one of these cars recently for my new daily ( 2003 lexus es300 ) and now I know easily how to change oil on it!
“You gotta put the oil on slower you’re gonna make a mess” !! 😂😂😂 Scotty ur killing me 😂😂
On that particular engine yes. I have one. There's maybe a 1/2 depth from the filler hole to the top of the head. Putting the oil in too fast will result in it spilling over the top of the valve cover beneath that plastic cover, making a mess.
On some motors the oil with come out the dipstick if it's out while you pour
Mother nature : Starts to thunder
Scotty: You’re thundering the wrong way.
My father taught me to always fill the new filter with clean oil before screwing it on so the engine isn't running dry while it pumps the new oil from the pan through the filter...just a thought lol
Jason Rebello it’s optional. You can do it if the oil filter sits vertically. But Scotty’s Lexus here is side ways and other cars are upside down so Scotty couldn’t do pre fill the filter.
You should put a little bit in at least.
@@traceyclark6822 That's what she said ...
@@q7wasp7 lol
it's nonsense. engine won't be dry. there is still oil on it.
Should pre coat the oil filter with some oil..i fill the oil filter up twice with the clean oil before putting it on the car...will help with any dry start problems....been doing this for about 50 years now and never a problem....
Me: hey Scotty I have a questi...
Scotty: WRONG WRONG....lol
Haha, telling it like it is..love your videos..
It's incredible seeing Dr octopus from the 2000s spiderman movies changing engine oil
nopenopenope Put some respek on Scotty’s name
Lmfaooooo
Lol..😂
I will say that I have broken the rule of using the proper oil. My oil cap on my 1999 Nissan Maxima says 5W-30. I’ve owned the car for the last 16 years, and have used Mobil 1 0W-30 for that entire time. Bought the car in 2004 with 70,000, and now has 320,000. I haven’t had any issues.
Also, 5 quarts of Mobil 1 @ Walmart is like $22.00. Combine that with a Mobil 1 oil filter for $10.00, and I’d say a $32.00 oil change is not bad. :)
Older cars are a little more forgiving
I always fill my filter full of oil before install. GM 6.0 in my caddie. No jack needed to get under it either. Super easy oil change
zero need to fill the filer. zero. Car starts on previous cylinder wall oil and oil from pan not filter. Zero effect
Nothing scarier than watching someone use a breaker bar to torque on an oil pan bolt.
So count the turns. Once hand tight only turn a little more. It doesn't take a lot of force. You just have to use a little sense. Or you can choke up on the bar.
@@johnchestnut5340 I'd highly recommend leaving the breaker bar in the toolbox.
@@murph1414 I've worked with guys who didn't know the difference between pounds, ounces and Newtons. If I have to use a breaker bar to loosen it, then why clutter my work area with another tool to tighten it just because someone else doesn't know how torque works or how to count turns? I get your meaning, but I'm also not acting as though I don't know how to turn a bolt just because someone else doesn't.
James Murphy no point me buying a torque wrench when a ring spanner or socket with breaker bar or ratchet can do the same job. Nipping bolts/nuts with any of the said tools is not hard, you’d be pretty pedantic not to use them. Scotty clearly wasn’t being He-Man when tightening. Its like telling people to wear gloves to change the oil....meh if it ain’t hot I don’t even bother.
after watching him use stp products witch in testing is the worse on the market any good mech. knows this what does that tell u i been building race engines for years and they use straight grade oil and after a few worn in miles it is wize to go a heavy'er grade oil when the motor is starting to get worn out any mech. knows this .and ur suppose to put oil on the seal of the filter . and never ever use a breaker bar to tighten any thing good way to f things up and the way he moves i think he is a tweeker because they act the same way
I've always filled the new filter with fresh oil before installing - I never liked the idea of the filter having to be filled while the engine was running. Not sure if this helps the engine get lubricated on startup or not, but I did put 6ooK miles on an 88 Golf, which was still running perfectly when it got stuck in 3rd gear and I took it to the junkyard.
Not an option for some cars with filters on the side or on top.
The engine has a small amount of oil on all surfaces so running it for 2 seconds before the filter fills up probably won’t Damage it
I manually fill my filter
Not only do I fill mine at least halfway to prevent dry starts ( the condition where surprisingly most engine wear actually occurs), but I was taught to remove the filter seal completely and lube both sides of it
I laughed at the tennis player picture... those girls grunt louder than Scotty turning that filter lol.
I will continue my use of Mobil1 Extended Service oil and oil filter, change it at 7k mile plus intervals. 95% highway driving, it’s a great set of products
When I change oil I don't use a funnel that someone took a dump in.
@TerrorWest so gasoline isn't the only thing corn can benefit then.
Dats tobacco spit
I have never changed oil plug gasket in 45 years. I have never had the leak.
Yep mechanics will mechanic ...
Yeah... Had the same one on for a couple years, no leaks.
I don't change them EVERY time, but every few times works well for me
Yes especialy metal gasket are very good never neds to changed.
My last Subaru did. Its the first one I replaced in 40 years.
I literally re-use my old drain plug gaskets every time, and they never leak.
I literally don't even have a gasket on mine and it never leaks oil, lolol.
Probably not a good idea though.
Every time I forget to replace the gasket I get an oil leak.
Probably a case by case sort of thing but when you work on other peoples cars you dont chance it
They do eventually
same here, but found out recently why you could want to change them; the soft copper can seal up any really big surface defects, from the occasional poor quality control/cheap manufacturing of the mating surfaces, if your car isn't one with a defect its no problem.
but the copper does go hard, temp cycling, and if your car's sump has an issue it might not seal, but the seal is still the same metallurgy, purish copper, so if you anneal them, heat therm up to a dull cherry red and cool slowly, they're good to go, even for poor sump mating surfaces and if you can't just check it after a few heat cycles (like a garage can't, which is why they replace them.)
I Love this guy Man lol!! You give me the motivation to take out renew every important part in my car 1 part at a time! And i know you would say if it aint broke then dont fix it but all these videos makes me want to slowly with time renew every part in my 2007 Honda Accord!
5:30 that funnel looks contaminated af. Youre changing oil the wrong way Scotty.
I was thinking the same thing lol
Hahaha
Contaminated, maybe. But grimy, for sure.
I totalyy agree. Adding dirt/grime to new oil is asking for trouble!
It wasnt his car so it doesnt matter!
Scotty fails to say that if you need a breaker bar to loosen the drain plug, someone screwed up tightening it way too much. Risk of stripping the threads.
One should always drain the oil when it is HOT, not cool.
Use a real oil filter wrench, not a strap if you can.
As a mechanic I frequently had to chase the oil drain plug threads on the oil pans to get them to thread off and on without a wrench once loosened. Usually the drain plugs had yellow paint on them indicating that they had last been at Jiffy Lube. Don’t over torque the drain plug! I use a combination wrench and leave it under the car until I have tightened the drain plug. I have never had to replace the oil drain plug gasket or use an oil filter wrench on my own cars.
@greenman7612 - re: "HOT vs. cool," ehhh?!? Would "cold" be an option for you?! Draining when "cold" means the oil filter won't leak much when spinning off, yes - the old oil takes longer to drain = Big Deal !!
Oil change? Let me grab the giant fan!
Scotty is the Vehicle Master! Love your advice and personality
Remember to loosen the fill cap before you drain the oil but don't take it off so you don't drop a socket in there
@Alien Wired Maybe doing the plugs while you're at it? Just don't drop anything in there.
or a turkey dinner
You need to clean your funnel. It looked pretty dirty and I wouldn't want to wash the dirt into the engine. I keep mine in a ziplock bag.
Cool
Even pros make mistakes
The first and last time I had my oil changed at Walmart, they used a torque gun to tighten the pan bolt. At first they claimed it wasn't their fault because I, of course, wasn't in their system (keep your receipts). Long story short, they replaced my pan and gave me 4 free changes, which I threw away in front of them.
Wow, just goes to show how some people dont give a crap about other peoples vehicles
Walmart. This story is true. Hard to believe yes.
We bought four BF Goodrich All Terrain TA tires and had them shipped to walmart. They very carefully looked over my truck before accepting the job. They were concerned that I was trying to get them to put oversize tires on. The TAs are BIG.
Same exact size so they say ok.
First thing they did was break my key. The circuit board fell out in my truck under the seat. They handed me the pieces. Ok...I've got a spare key. Here.
Then they say they can't do the work. Lugnut recall and they've only got 4 in stock. ?
I uhhhh...
Then they lost my keys. That's TWO SETS NOW.
The bottom line is those tires peperwork got lost in the shuffle. We never got charged. Two sets of free keys too. I don't see how they stay in business. The tires were close to $1400.
as far as recycling the oil and filters... go to your local oil change shops n ask em if they mind taking em. we have large trash cans we fill up with filters and when full we have companies that come get them and our used oil. we never get close to filling our oil tanks nor does all of our trash cans usually get full with filters before being picked up.
STP Oil is like water n light color.
Gasket!? I didn't even know that you had to put a new one!
Thanks Scotty!
theyre good to have if you're doing a lot, on some cars you dont have to, some cars you do
Some oil change places do that part of the service like Quikfit in the UK
Stupidly
Dirty funnel for the win!