I have the reverse version (white light) of this. It also comes with 3 black wires with symbols on them. If you hold these 3 black wires facing you, the one on the left (with dots) is the ground wire. The one one the right (with dash) is the running light wire (in my case the reverse wire). The one in the middle (also dots), are the sequencial wire (the led flashes).
Let's say i wanted the F1 style Would be okey to connect the constant wire to the park light,the strobe wire to the break light and ground to body..is this method a safe way? And what about a relay?
I have the same light with the same 3 wires how can i know which one is ground and which is strobe and wer it stays lit? One wire has a circle another a small dash and the third a long dash
Hello, I did your same install exactly like you did, and I did not use the flickering light. When the car is not running the light is stationary but when I turn the car on it starts flickering…. Any suggestions?
i think u should also have one or both side rear fogs lights like they have in europe cars/volvo cars. Now that would look cool and unique especially with the weather takes a turn for worse. plus it wil be safe too. I am not sure what bulb u will have it for rear fogs brightness but i assume that f1 style brake should do the trick
I connected mine and everything turned out fine, the only thing is when the brakes are pressed the blinking does not stop. I know their suppose to blink but in the set up I did it doesn’t not stop.
Any suggestions for using the electric port on the trailer hitch I want to use it on my bike rack it’s a Kuat Nuvi 2.0 platform bike rack I have the four bike version so when it’s in the upright position it’s tall I want to add the extra brake light for this reason as the bike rack covers the rear brake lights some
I just bought one of these and wanted to know how I could see if it’s water proof. The box from the manufacturer says it is but wanted to know if theres a way to really be sure. Thanks for your videos.
So to be clear. You don't need the LED control box, since you wire up 2 diodes and a resistor?. Also when you push the brake (bright), does the parking(dim) shut off or are they both on. I'm assuming that they are both on when the brake is pushed. since a diode only controls the direction of current. Can you clarify for me. I really don't want to pay $40 for a single LED control box. Thank you.
You don't need that control box. Inside that control box is the circuit I showed with the diodes and resistor. When you have the parking light on, and you push on the brake, both wires have 12 volts, but with the diodes, the park light wire and brake light wire are isolated from each other so it does not short out.
The light only has one set of LEDs. With power only applied to the lead with diode and resistor, the LEDs are lit weakly due to the voltage loss over the resistor+diode When you apply power to the lead with just the diode, the light sees a higher voltage (just a small loss over the diode) and lights up brighter. The diodes are there so that the parking and brake light circuits doesn't affect each other - if they weren't there, the break lights would be getting power from the parking light circuit as well, and be constantly on. With the diodes the normal brake/parking lights behave normally, nothing changes for them. I've done something similar on my car which has a central low placed fog light - original power wire for the fog light was cut and a diode inserted. A piece of wire and diode was connected to the brake light wire and then to the fog light. Result is that with fog light switch 'off', the light turns on along with the brake lights as an extra brake light. If the fog light switch is 'on', the light is simply constantly on, acting as a normal fog light. The diodes prevents the turning on of the fog light switch from turning on the brake lights (and back-feeding the brake light power source) and the brake lights from back-feeding the fog light circuit. Since there is no extra resistor in any of the two feeds, the light is equally bright both as an extra brake light and as fog light.
if i was to add a blinking module that flashes then stays constant to the side with one resistor for the brake would that work? i dont want the constant strobe when braking.
I need help. I bought a red strip with the blinking as arrows on yellow, brake and lights on red and when you reverse the led turns white. I don't know how to cut the wireless that go to the car lamp without breaking the lines
Hi, nice detailed video. Thanks for giving so clear instructions on the insatllation as well as making the circuit controller. I have the same light installed but without any resistors or diodes. Everything thing works fine and i am using the strobe function for the brake light. Only issue is if my car engine is not running the led light works fine. But as i start my car engine and turn on the parking lights the led light starts to strobe (at a very slow strobe rate), brake strobing works without any issue in this case. I don't know what's the issue here when the engine is turned on (running). I guess these led lights are rated at 12v and when the engine is running the voltage usually increases from 12v to around 13.8 or 14v (its normal). So is the voltage increase from 12v to above 13v can be the issue as the light works normally without any issues when the engine is not running. So if i placed a resistor and a diode or just a resistor on the parking light wire and turn the engine on, will the issue of slow strobing gets solved and the led remains constant ON on dim mode? Please help. Thanks.
I suspect the problem is the wire you tapped onto for the parking light. To find out for sure, you need to use a multimeter to test that wire and see if you have 12V (or 13.8V) when parking light is on (ignition on). There might be a voltage issue.
@@dial2fast hey thanks for the reply. I have a digital voltmeter installed on my dashboard, when i turn the key just to acc mode the voltage will be around 12v but as i start the engine it varies in between 13.4 to 13.8v and not more than that. Also if i use the AC or at night the headlights or the drls, then the voltage will drop below or around 12v. But if dont use them it will vary as usual in the 13v range. I did some google and came to know that the voltage does increase after the engine starts and it normal, but if it goes above 14.5 then it will be a problem. Also confirmed it with the mechanic and he says its perfectly normal for the voltage to go around 13.8v. I do have other led bulbs for my tail lights and turn signal and a few other accessories which i use without any issue. I think there's an exact same question in the comments section by some other user with the same issue of the slow strobe when the engine is running but i guess u missed it so i had to ask u that same question but with a longer explanation. All i want to know is that if i introduce a diode and a resistor on the parking light wire, will the voltage usage be more and the slow strobe might go away? (May be introducing the resistor for the 12v rated led brake light might get the voltage to get down from 13.8 to around 12v on the brake wire positive). I have bought all the parts like the 220 ohm resistor (1/4W rated) but wasn't able to find the exact diode 1N4002 so i bought a different one 1n4007. Will this diode work as a replacement for 1N4002? Any how will be doing this by tomorrow and hoping it works. Will let u know if it worked. Thanks.
@@Rrocksstar These F1 light is designed to operate between 12-14V. The fact that it's behaving differently with and without ignition on, it's very strange. If you put a 1N4002 diode in line, it will drop the voltage by 1.1V. You can even put 2 in series if you want. Don't need to put any resistor in series.
@@dial2fast thanks once again for the reply. i will definitely try as u said by connecting two diodes in series. So the procedure will be the same, connecting two diodes in series but without any resistor for dimming the light with parking light and a single diode on the same wire for brake light(if i am not using the default strobe function wire at all)? Also on a long run, both your method as shown in the video and the other method that you just suggested will be good? Any heating issues or any such issue that u came through in all this time? And as i mentioned earlier that i have 1N4007 diode as a replacement diode for 1N4002 diode, will it work? Sorry for the trouble though, but its better to ask an expert (you) rather than regretting later. :)
@@Rrocksstar Keep in mind the idea of putting the diode in series is just something to try as I am not sure what is the actual cause of your issue. Normally if it's me, I will test that light on a bench and run several test on it with a power supply to see what's going on. You need to know what the problem is in order to fix it. I expect the F1 light to work as normal from 12V-14V without any additional diode or resistor. Putting 2 diodes inline will drop the voltage by 2V, but not limit the current (LED uses very little current and therefore should not need any resistor to lower the current). If you want you can also measure current draw with the multimeter. Also you can use IN4007 instead of IN4002. The only different is the reverse voltage protection differ between the 2.
Was wondering , would the 220 ohm resistor also work for a normal bulb(like the ones in the brake lights ) , or would it be a different resistor considering its not an LED bulb. Please help .
You can't use that resistor on a regular incandescent light bulb. It draws too much current, and will overheat the resistor and burn up. You need to find a wirewound resistor with built in heatsink for use with incandescent bulb.
@@dial2fast oh! Thank you so much ! I'm headed towards the right direction now . the bulb I have says 13.5V, 25W, would I have to get a wirewound of the same value to dim the light like you did ?
@@Bran0n909 To get the right resistor, you probably need to double the rated wattage. So your 25W bulb should use a 50W wirewound resistor. This will ensure you don't burn up the resistor. Also think about where you mounting that resistor because it's going to be toasty hot. Best to screw it down on a metal surface not near any plastic.
My video review of the one I have: th-cam.com/video/bpRN-MyxBEw/w-d-xo.html Link to one on Amazon with same spec but different branding: amzn.to/2pPuUhN
@@not_flvcko I looked up the datasheet of the 15SQ045, and the Vf is 0.55V, and the max DC reverse voltage is 45V, with max forward currrent of 15A. So this will work fine.
This is one of those videos where you learned a lot more than you bargained for. Thank you!
Thank god you made this because this is exactly how i wanted my light set up.
Wow, you took a sub-optimal product and made it what it should've been. That was fun to watch!
Woowww, your ideas are amazing, thanks for the vids
Nice video! Cheers! I will use that light for fog light.
I have the reverse version (white light) of this.
It also comes with 3 black wires with symbols on them.
If you hold these 3 black wires facing you, the one on the left (with dots) is the ground wire. The one one the right (with dash) is the running light wire (in my case the reverse wire). The one in the middle (also dots), are the sequencial wire (the led flashes).
Clean install sir👍🏼🍻
Great video
This guy is a genius
With the indent above the light wouldn’t it make more sense aesthetically to turn the light upside down giving it a slightly cleaner look?
Please tell about resistors and diode.
I want to make some relay for dimming feature and bright light feature for led strip brake light.
Let's say i wanted the F1 style
Would be okey to connect the constant wire to the park light,the strobe wire to the break light and ground to body..is this method a safe way?
And what about a relay?
Like a Boss ... Thank you
Bought the 7440 LEDs through your other video's link :)
As always, thanks for your support!
Amazing work yet again. Super clean install, looks factory
Thanks for your comment!
I have the same light with the same 3 wires how can i know which one is ground and which is strobe and wer it stays lit? One wire has a circle another a small dash and the third a long dash
Hello, I did your same install exactly like you did, and I did not use the flickering light. When the car is not running the light is stationary but when I turn the car on it starts flickering…. Any suggestions?
Where does the ground connect to on the car?
i think u should also have one or both side rear fogs lights like they have in europe cars/volvo cars. Now that would look cool and unique especially with the weather takes a turn for worse. plus it wil be safe too. I am not sure what bulb u will have it for rear fogs brightness but i assume that f1 style brake should do the trick
Appreciate your comment! Thanks!
what are you using for power supply?
What is the ohms value of resistor?
hi so if i uderstend good you cancel the strobo ??????
Where can i get the controller box?
I connected mine and everything turned out fine, the only thing is when the brakes are pressed the blinking does not stop. I know their suppose to blink but in the set up I did it doesn’t not stop.
With these lights, if you connect to the flashing circuit, it does not stop flashing as long as you have 12v on that wire.
Any suggestions for using the electric port on the trailer hitch I want to use it on my bike rack it’s a Kuat Nuvi 2.0 platform bike rack I have the four bike version so when it’s in the upright position it’s tall I want to add the extra brake light for this reason as the bike rack covers the rear brake lights some
The trailer hitch connector will have brake light output, and you will have to find the pinout and tap onto the tap.
I just bought one of these and wanted to know how I could see if it’s water proof. The box from the manufacturer says it is but wanted to know if theres a way to really be sure. Thanks for your videos.
I am pretty sure they are all not water proof (even though they say it is). Just open it up and see if there are any rubber gaskets.
So to be clear. You don't need the LED control box, since you wire up 2 diodes and a resistor?. Also when you push the brake (bright), does the parking(dim) shut off or are they both on. I'm assuming that they are both on when the brake is pushed. since a diode only controls the direction of current. Can you clarify for me. I really don't want to pay $40 for a single LED control box. Thank you.
Also Could you make a video on how to create a cheap and effective LED control box?
You don't need that control box. Inside that control box is the circuit I showed with the diodes and resistor. When you have the parking light on, and you push on the brake, both wires have 12 volts, but with the diodes, the park light wire and brake light wire are isolated from each other so it does not short out.
The light only has one set of LEDs. With power only applied to the lead with diode and resistor, the LEDs are lit weakly due to the voltage loss over the resistor+diode When you apply power to the lead with just the diode, the light sees a higher voltage (just a small loss over the diode) and lights up brighter.
The diodes are there so that the parking and brake light circuits doesn't affect each other - if they weren't there, the break lights would be getting power from the parking light circuit as well, and be constantly on. With the diodes the normal brake/parking lights behave normally, nothing changes for them.
I've done something similar on my car which has a central low placed fog light - original power wire for the fog light was cut and a diode inserted. A piece of wire and diode was connected to the brake light wire and then to the fog light. Result is that with fog light switch 'off', the light turns on along with the brake lights as an extra brake light.
If the fog light switch is 'on', the light is simply constantly on, acting as a normal fog light. The diodes prevents the turning on of the fog light switch from turning on the brake lights (and back-feeding the brake light power source) and the brake lights from back-feeding the fog light circuit.
Since there is no extra resistor in any of the two feeds, the light is equally bright both as an extra brake light and as fog light.
Why does the wire color change 🤔
if i was to add a blinking module that flashes then stays constant to the side with one resistor for the brake would that work? i dont want the constant strobe when braking.
If you add a blinking module and if this is for your brake, you need to wire it to the side without the resistor.
Hey did you do this ? Im trying to do the same soon
I need help. I bought a red strip with the blinking as arrows on yellow, brake and lights on red and when you reverse the led turns white. I don't know how to cut the wireless that go to the car lamp without breaking the lines
If you want to learn to connect or tap wires, watch these 2 videos th-cam.com/video/xdZnUAeqX4E/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/NGQB0x83xIU/w-d-xo.html
Hi, nice detailed video. Thanks for giving so clear instructions on the insatllation as well as making the circuit controller.
I have the same light installed but without any resistors or diodes. Everything thing works fine and i am using the strobe function for the brake light. Only issue is if my car engine is not running the led light works fine. But as i start my car engine and turn on the parking lights the led light starts to strobe (at a very slow strobe rate), brake strobing works without any issue in this case. I don't know what's the issue here when the engine is turned on (running). I guess these led lights are rated at 12v and when the engine is running the voltage usually increases from 12v to around 13.8 or 14v (its normal). So is the voltage increase from 12v to above 13v can be the issue as the light works normally without any issues when the engine is not running. So if i placed a resistor and a diode or just a resistor on the parking light wire and turn the engine on, will the issue of slow strobing gets solved and the led remains constant ON on dim mode? Please help. Thanks.
I suspect the problem is the wire you tapped onto for the parking light. To find out for sure, you need to use a multimeter to test that wire and see if you have 12V (or 13.8V) when parking light is on (ignition on). There might be a voltage issue.
@@dial2fast hey thanks for the reply. I have a digital voltmeter installed on my dashboard, when i turn the key just to acc mode the voltage will be around 12v but as i start the engine it varies in between 13.4 to 13.8v and not more than that. Also if i use the AC or at night the headlights or the drls, then the voltage will drop below or around 12v. But if dont use them it will vary as usual in the 13v range.
I did some google and came to know that the voltage does increase after the engine starts and it normal, but if it goes above 14.5 then it will be a problem. Also confirmed it with the mechanic and he says its perfectly normal for the voltage to go around 13.8v.
I do have other led bulbs for my tail lights and turn signal and a few other accessories which i use without any issue. I think there's an exact same question in the comments section by some other user with the same issue of the slow strobe when the engine is running but i guess u missed it so i had to ask u that same question but with a longer explanation.
All i want to know is that if i introduce a diode and a resistor on the parking light wire, will the voltage usage be more and the slow strobe might go away? (May be introducing the resistor for the 12v rated led brake light might get the voltage to get down from 13.8 to around 12v on the brake wire positive).
I have bought all the parts like the 220 ohm resistor (1/4W rated) but wasn't able to find the exact diode 1N4002 so i bought a different one 1n4007. Will this diode work as a replacement for 1N4002?
Any how will be doing this by tomorrow and hoping it works. Will let u know if it worked. Thanks.
@@Rrocksstar These F1 light is designed to operate between 12-14V. The fact that it's behaving differently with and without ignition on, it's very strange. If you put a 1N4002 diode in line, it will drop the voltage by 1.1V. You can even put 2 in series if you want. Don't need to put any resistor in series.
@@dial2fast thanks once again for the reply. i will definitely try as u said by connecting two diodes in series.
So the procedure will be the same, connecting two diodes in series but without any resistor for dimming the light with parking light and a single diode on the same wire for brake light(if i am not using the default strobe function wire at all)?
Also on a long run, both your method as shown in the video and the other method that you just suggested will be good? Any heating issues or any such issue that u came through in all this time?
And as i mentioned earlier that i have 1N4007 diode as a replacement diode for 1N4002 diode, will it work?
Sorry for the trouble though, but its better to ask an expert (you) rather than regretting later. :)
@@Rrocksstar Keep in mind the idea of putting the diode in series is just something to try as I am not sure what is the actual cause of your issue. Normally if it's me, I will test that light on a bench and run several test on it with a power supply to see what's going on. You need to know what the problem is in order to fix it. I expect the F1 light to work as normal from 12V-14V without any additional diode or resistor. Putting 2 diodes inline will drop the voltage by 2V, but not limit the current (LED uses very little current and therefore should not need any resistor to lower the current). If you want you can also measure current draw with the multimeter. Also you can use IN4007 instead of IN4002. The only different is the reverse voltage protection differ between the 2.
in 220 ohm resistor there is 1/4w and 1/2w. which one of that did you used?
You can use either, but for this light, 1/4W will work fine.
I bought the same brake light but mine only have 2 wires (+ and -)
What diode and resistor did you use?
To the +
Did you have one short out from water? what made you realize to seal it?
No but since this is installed outside and it's cheap, these are things one should check before install.
Can I use any 220ohm resistor or is there a specific one?
That's the resistor I used, but if you change to a different value, it will affect the parking light brightness.
You should have made it strobe when you push the brake.
Just a preference thing. This light will give people the option if they want that.
Was wondering , would the 220 ohm resistor also work for a normal bulb(like the ones in the brake lights ) , or would it be a different resistor considering its not an LED bulb. Please help .
You can't use that resistor on a regular incandescent light bulb. It draws too much current, and will overheat the resistor and burn up. You need to find a wirewound resistor with built in heatsink for use with incandescent bulb.
@@dial2fast oh! Thank you so much ! I'm headed towards the right direction now . the bulb I have says 13.5V, 25W, would I have to get a wirewound of the same value to dim the light like you did ?
@@Bran0n909 To get the right resistor, you probably need to double the rated wattage. So your 25W bulb should use a 50W wirewound resistor. This will ensure you don't burn up the resistor. Also think about where you mounting that resistor because it's going to be toasty hot. Best to screw it down on a metal surface not near any plastic.
@@dial2fast thank you so much! Your video helped me a lot aswell .
@@dial2fast the ohm won't wetter ?
Please tell me is legal???
I need these on a Amber color..
Worst case if no one makes them in amber, you could get the ones with clear glass and replace the red LEDs with amber ones (requires soldering).
Buy the clear one. Then buy a window tint film in Amber!!!!
what device did you use at 1:30 to send power to the light?
12V power supply
where can i get one? can you give me a product name? Thanks
im only finding ones that plug into other devices , not ones that can test wires like yours
My video review of the one I have: th-cam.com/video/bpRN-MyxBEw/w-d-xo.html
Link to one on Amazon with same spec but different branding: amzn.to/2pPuUhN
thank you!
Is there a specific sized diode i would need to use ?
You can use a 1N4001 diode which handles upto 1A, and has only a 0.7V voltage drop.
dial2fast i think the type i used is “15SQ045”. Will that still work ?
@@not_flvcko I looked up the datasheet of the 15SQ045, and the Vf is 0.55V, and the max DC reverse voltage is 45V, with max forward currrent of 15A. So this will work fine.
Where Can I Get The Resistor ?
You can buy the 220 ohm resistor here bit.ly/220ohmResistor
illegal brake lights in CA because not mounted lower than 15 inches
1: WHY?
2: WHY on a Pathfinder?
3: WHY?
Y not
F1 does not actually have any brake lights at all 😜
I don't find this useful at all, does not even look good