I hope you don't have problems with your backfill. Tyvek is designed to let vapor transfer through but to stop water transmission. The way you installed the Tyvek you have restricted water from reaching the stone (the stone acts like a gutter to move the water to the drain tile) then being transported away by the drain tile (which acts like a downspout on a gutter system). Filter fabric is meant to allow water through but restrict sand and silt from migrating into the stone, thereby reducing it's effectiveness as a drain. Filter fabric and Tyvek are designed to do different jobs.
I feel really bad for Jesse and Alyssa, putting all that hard work into the backfilling, only to find out that they made a critial mistake. I am a licensed professional Civil Engineer (I am not licensed in Idaho) with 40+ years of experience, and everyone who has pointed out that they shouldn't have put the Tyvek behind or over the crushed rock are correct. I'm sure they had good intentions, and didn't realize that the Tyvek was essentially waterproof. Digging it back up and replacing the Tyvek is the correct thing to do, but before doing that, I would suggest that Jesse talk to his engineer and get direction from him. As others have said, the Tyvek behind the rock will trap water, causing hydrostatic pressure to be exerted on the rock, which in turn will exert pressure on the back wall of the house. I don't know if the engineer designed for hydrostatic pressure, if he did, then they are probably fine, if not then digging it back up may be the best option. Again, this is something he needs to discuss with his engineer.
I have never heard of nor seen anyone waterproof a drain system like that. It doesn't make any sense to me. That's what the filter fabrics are for to prevent clogging of dirt in the system. Also you waterproofed the ICFs and have a drain and now are using tyvek as a way to move water away from the house which doesn't seem that great to me. Please explain better the reasoning of wateproofing your drainage system and where you got this information from? Curiosity not trying to knock what you are doing but have never seen this practice and there is always something to learn.
I'm curious as to why you used Tyvek in your foundation drain system? As far as I know tyvek is water proof and will not allow liquid water to penetrate it although it will let water vapor through. Most people use a landscape fabric which allows water through . Can you give me your thoughts on this
No builder i have worked with in 40yrs have ever back filled a house this way, it is a complete waste of time and effort i just finished my 62nd house and i have never seen this method.
No, when you put the drain tile on the outside you put down a cover fabric to let the water through so that the tile moves the water to a sump or a french drain. Yuo do not stop the water from going to the tile you let the drain tile do its job
They're trying to use it to divert water, not just filter. Soil and turf or other ground cover will divert most anyhow. If foundation drainage discharges to nature, there is no need for diverting. Clay will be a barrier and system will not be overloaded.
Mark Long that is not a construction practice. A footer drain needs, perforated drain pipe, clean stone and a filter fabric. Their set up is not a proven practice. And their system will not work properly.
Dan Gates that is not a construction practice. A footer drain needs, perforated drain pipe, clean stone and a filter fabric. Their set up is not a proven practice. And their system will not work properly.
Not sure what your grading aspirations will be for the back of the house, but the house is at the bottom of a rather large hill. I would consider installing a french drain a bit back from the house on an angle to capture and re-direct a lot of that run off that I'm sure will be coming down that hill.
I told yall this before, but, it's apparent that you didnt listen so I'll tell you one more time. You better quit dinking around with all that non essential chaff and concentrate your time and resources on getting the house dried in!!!!!. The floor is getting wet even with the plastic that you have over it and it is going to start swelling and will cause all sorts of problems when it does, and the pretty wood on the frame is going to go south pretty quick and you will be left with a dull grey finish.
Its hard for those of us that know things from years in the industry, to watch those that think they know more, do stuff they shouldn't. Karma will teach them soon enough.
David, as do I, with all the hard work they are putting into the house, I just hate to see them wind up disappointed because of water damage to the good start that they have on the house.
This video is 2 months old, took 9 days to posted from the last video. They put Tyvek in the ground to water proof the drainage ditch??? instead of landscape fabric, and some viewers praise them on the good job they are doing go figure.
Welcome back, I wish you would talk through what you next steps are. To comment on this is only for someone else's project has you did this work over a month ago. So, anyone when you have a pipe that you want to wait on connect it run it out 3-8 ft, what ever space you have then snub it up to the surface and cap it. When you are ready you only have to dig down to the bend. You don't disturb the drainage work around the house. Love what you are doing. Continue to make each other happy.
Gotta love when Alyssa (sp.) makes a point in 3 sentences and then Jesse (sp.) goes on for four minutes saying the exact same thing... you can see in her face that she is used to this kind of dynamic.
Putting tyvac down totally defeats the purpose of everything you have done up to this point. The water is supposed to filter down through the rock. Preventing the water from getting down there is ridiculous. Then why did you do all the drainage steps that you did.... Smh
As a 40+ year experienced Civil Engineer your drainage system and detail confounds me. The purpose of its installation is to collect subsoil water and direct it away from your foundations and protect your house, whilst your installation method and detail defeats that purpose. Good luck though with your build.
Being an armchair builder for a second: I would have definitely added a short extension to that pass-through for your PEX through your drain rock instead of capping it off. Much easier to penetrate and seal the Tyvek now before you put rock in than after. A 10' piece of pipe could have saved you from having to mess with your drain rock later. Just my .02
Throw that stupid Stihl Sharpener away and just use a normal file. How many time have they saw people tell them how to correctly sharpen their saws and they still have no clue
In layers!! Enough with the Tyvek! Defeating the purpose of the drain and gravel. It's going to puddle in layers, freeze/thaw, sit/seep everything BUT drain.
I'm surprised you guys left your roof open for so long. I have sips roofs, but what I did was sheath the timberframe with 1x8 T&G pine (with a transparent white stain from Permachink), and then synthetic roof paper over that (titanium UDL50), stapled with pneumatic Auto stapler(shoots staples like a machine gun as you drag it across the surface. This will make your frame water protected from the roof (except for side blowing rain), and at the same time give you the nice looking T&G from the inside. I only use sips on the roof because I know I will change the electrical as I'm going along in the build, but an added bonus is I can 2x6 frame the walls, sheath them and house wrap them and then the whole frame is dried in. As far as the sips on the roof, we add a 2x grid horizontally and vertically with 2'x2' spacing and screw the sips on top of that. We use that 2x spacing to run conduit for all of our ceiling lighting, track lighting etc and in some cased to get power from one side of the building to the other as it can be an easier path in some instances.
While you have the small excavator you need to cut a wide area around the back so you can walk and create a ditch with the slope away from the house so that the water that comes down the hill is channeled away from the house
You dont want trees that close to your foundation never mind the fire risk.There are min distances for different species of tree but none are that close.Still cant figure out why you keep putting Twyvec on top of your rock filter,might as well not bothered with the rock.
Trying to understand why you put a drain system in with rock and a drainage pipe and then wrap it in Tyvec. Looks like you will be building tremendous amounts of hydraulic pressure behind your slab. What is your idea on this Jess ? I'm lost.
The tyvek don't let water true that's why the mud. You should use fabric to separate stone and dirt. The drain would keep the water away from basement/garage walls
actually the NFPA studies show that ember buildup is the biggest house ignition source. The embers collect in traps and at the base of walls which then ignite. Check out the NFPA web site and Firewise.
That chain is shot. You guys should consider buying 10 or so, and once one is dull swapping it out. When you get 7 or 8 dull chains, bring them to a saw shop that knows how to sharpen a chain.
Joshua Lillie I would have assumed they did this to stop the silting up of the drainage rock,don’t quote me but I think he made mention of it in one of the earlier videos but I could be mistaken.These folks have done a great job of this so far in my opinion as husband and wife owner builders with the help of the shelter workshop crew no less which was a shrewd move on their part and certainly with the educational side of these videos imparting knowledge to those who with to do similar it’s certainly an invaluable learning curve all around,love this and can’t wait to see the end product.Take care.
I enjoy watching what they are up to, sometimes I have questions about why they are doing things a certain way. I have watched the "This Old House" crew work on a number of foundation and drainage projects and I have not seen them use anything but landscape/filter fabric. Maybe it is just a difference in budget. They might both get the job done.
Alyssa you are a badass of a homesteader! From picking berries, cooking & canning to composter, tractor driver and chainsaw operator you are not Wonderwoman you are AWESOME! Jesse you are a very lucky guy! It has been a pleasure to watch you two progress. I first found your channel last fall and have been watching 3 or 4 videos a day and I get glued to my phone or iPad while drinking my morning coffee. Thank you for letting us into your lives and watch your efforts!
The key to that sharpening tool is to push down while you are making your stroke, that will hit the rakers. Remember that tool only works on the push stroke. If you don't push down and only forward you'll hit the tooth only. Best way to do it is to put your bar in a vise and use both hands on the sharpener. One on front and one back and keep your tool perpendicular to the bar. If you don't you won't hit both rakers on a safety chain. Newer chains don't have a real deep gullet, when you push down while sharpening you deepen the gullet and hit the rakers. It generally takes 4 or more sharpenings to get the chain cutting real good.
He mentioned it in a previous video. His idea is that if he can prevent water from getting to the drain rock (treating it as a backup. it might not get plugged up with dirt down the road. The drain rock isn’t for water on top of the surface. They will do landscaping to slope it away from the house.
I look at the proximity of the trees to the house and I kind of believe that for fire break I'd remove a few that are really close but not too many. Most of them are higher than the house and fire burns UP easier than down.
Joe Worden lol. I've seen it. Funny response. I can hear the conversation right after they find the damage that is going to cost them thousands of dollars and a month of living in the travel trailer. "Well... I guess we should have listened and taken that tree down...." "Yep. But hey! At least we have all those good memories of chickens we killed on that tree!" They want mementos, have someone carve a rooster, a hen, and chicks from the wood after the tree comes down.
Not putting the green pipe in now is going to come back and bite you.. Having to dig everything out again later, when it was all open and easy now.. Could be a big mistake
Gilbern Invader I think they made the right choice, but I would have put a lead out to to get you away from the foundation 5-8' And put a screw in plug on both ends. Then put a 2x4 standing up to mark the lead, and some lathe/ stickers at the end or a little stone to mark when you are close, when you go to dig it up later.
INSTALL THE HOSE! Or at least that was what i was thinking. Would there been an issue by installing the hose for but only coming out 5 or so feet and bring it up to the surface that way it you wouldn't have to deal with the backfill and finish trenching out were the outside boiler would be in the future. With the hose being coiled and cold that short run MAY have been a option. OF Course its easy to say when Im not the one putting all the blood, sweat, and tears into it. Jesse and Alyssa keep doing what your doing the way you need it done!!! you guys are AWSOME
How prone is your area to bush fires in the summer, remember you are building a wood frame house, trees that close to a house can become the source of the flame that could start the house a fire. It's a nice idea to have nature up close, but, it's better to be safe than sorry. I missed you over the last week, suppose this time of year everyone is in need of a holiday. keep up the how to. Cheers, Dave
Good Job! I've never seen Tyvek used that way though... Here in the N.W., Tyvek is used as a "rainscreen" on walls to prevent water intrusion. But your washed river rock is intended to channel water away from the building and prevent hydrostatic pressure building up against your foundation. But instead, the water is kept "outside" of the Tyvek barrier which wraps the rock, so water is pushing on that barrier, pushing on the rock, pushing on the foundation. In other words, if the Tyvek is too carefully encompassing the rock, then the rock isn't allowed to do its job, and the intended hydrostatic pressure relief is not provided. (Imagine putting your drain rock in a large sealed plastic pipe, where it's isolated from the water.) Incidentally, Tyvek allows "humidity" molecules to pass through, but not water (oddly) and not air as air molecules are bigger. And keep in mind (when siding your house) that the tannin acid in cedar eats Tyvek. They don't mix. If you're not using cedar, I recommend the crinkly Tyvek "DrainWrap" that "drains" water that might get behind the siding. Ken the architect.
You’re supposed to put filter fabric over your drain rock before you backfill to keep sediment out of the washed rock and that allows the drain rock to actually drain water away
They put tyvek, that doesn't let water go through. The land behind the house will weigh twice as much and put hard pressure on the house. What's worse than backfilling a house in a hill ? Digging it all out again.
How to be positive and supportive when pointing out a mistake?? The muck on the back side of the house is due in part to clay, but mostly because water can only flow over the ground surface. The drain and rock are surrounded by impenetrable membrane. The expensive rock will stay clean and dry but will move no water. I genuinely want them to succeed, and hope they'll get good advice going forward.
First, you don't put expensive rock down there. Clean 3/4" is perfect and way cheaper. That rock helps the soil to drain and remove weight and hydraulic pressure on the wall. Even with clay, it helps greatly. I want them to succeed but they will make mistakes if they don't get proper help/knowledge and once it's done, it's too bad.
I don't know what kind of wind you have there, but given the lay of the land I've seen in your vids, I'd say you can get some pretty sever gusts.......I wouldn't depend on those screws used to secure your posts to just the joists. Consider placing galvanized 18 GA.metal straps about a foot up on your posts (will be covered by your panels), dropping down to the bottom of your plate secured with #10 X 4" screws, four on the posts, two on the plate. This is similar to what's done in Hurricane regions......and for good reason.
The more I watch this channel the more I find myself talking to the tv... So much wrong here with literally no questioning to "is that okay?" Or "should I call my tradesman buddy"? Like wow Jesse.. that pipe stub out is.. wow
I wish these videos were more real time but I understand your load of tasks. Too late now but the pipe for the radiant could have been extended another 8 or 10 ft away from the foundation so when/if you do use it you don't have to dig up tight to the house. Keep up the hard work.
Having installed infloor heating ,outdoor wood boilers ,and boilers for a living .Your wise to wait till you know exactly where you want it and you can plan your inside piping with the placement of the pex coming though the wall . 34 years of doing this talking . keep up the good work guys
I know you two love trees but you should rely take that tree out with the chicken killing thing out. its to close to the house and the longer you what the bigger and harder the tree will get and its just going to damage the house be a fire risk and get in the way of building the house. I see jessy has learned to us the blade to level the mini , and Alysas getting better at the tractor. when using the sharpener on the chain show you need to put both hands on the sharpener and keep in at the right angle to the blade, I find it ezzy er to just put the thing in a vice to hold the show steady. good going.
Love the videos! But, I really wish you would make the music about 50% volume... Makes me have to turn up the volume to hear ya'll talk, then randomly get blasted with loud music...
Not a big deal but if you guys would quit messing up those saw chains and get 3-4 spares, you will save a lot of time. They dont cost much and would save you sooooo much time just doing a 2 minute swap out, that you would be amazed . That way you could get a real sharpener [electric bench mount for about $150] and have razor sharp fast cutting chains all the time. My average time to do 6 chains razor sharp is under an hour and thats 2 different pitches.
That east side tree has had so much root damage at this point that you should drop it before it drops itself. If it were salvageable, you have lots of stone to build a well around the tree to keep the dirt off the trunk.
I know its probably way too late but if you fill plastic pipe with boiling hot water it softens right up. Just don't forget its boiling hot and pour it on the top of your foot. It doesnt take much to fill a rather long length.
When you are scooping up with the backhoe move the tilt of the bucket up and down as it will fill the bucket more ...yes I can operate one and my so called father had a JCB for many many years 😜😜😜😜. Also wear some ear protection please
While I understand you wanting to save trees, but in forest fire language, trees and brush close to a structure is considered by the FIREFIGHTERS to be, "LADDER FUEL", and to be avoided at all costs. No one is perfect, and I can see that this build has come at a cost. Good luck with your adventures.
Check which file you are using on your saw. The file must match the chain you are filing or the results will be a slow cutter like you are experiencing.
Your PEX should have gone in months ago. So at this point, wait,, don't worry about it. It may never go in. You have take great pains, and correctly so, to preserve the tree on the east side. But then you ran your mini excavator back and forth over the roots, In general,, not alway,, tree roots should not be run over. The area to avoid is the drip line of the tree. Most of the roots are in that area. On that tree now,, time will tell.
Just a suggestion to save a lot of back work/pain. Try using a Pulp Hook for moving firewood. Checkout Labonville or Baileys logging supplies. I never handle firewood without using mine
Yeah, I get it, but at some reasonable point, you just have to pick some darn windows and get on with it. I respect the hell out of them for doing what they're doing. All the time they took planing and sawing to the gnats behind and now it sits in the rain. Water and wood is not so bueno. The oil may help a bit, but damage is being done with each precip event. They have already invested a LOT of effort and care. I just see much of that degrading in the weather. And that's a shame. Generally you preplan to eliminate show stoppers and prioritize to that end. If I knew windows would put the show on hold, they would have been chosen WAY before the timbers were even sawn. I'm sure it will all be ok in the end, but if they are as anal about finish as I am, they are creating LOTS of work on the back end that shouldn't have had to happen. See: critical path method. It works. Anyway, hope they keep up the good work. I'm sure their batteries could use a charge.
Jesse, bury the thermopex now and leave the coil sticking out 8" from the house. You can re-route it later but it will at least be stubbed into the basement and you can finish the drain rock.
Could the tarp/plastic on the subfloor be set up in tent-like formation, so the water would run off the floor over the edges? There's plenty of hanging points.
You made a bad decision with the boiler line. Poor planning plus that fitting is nowhere on properly I hope you don’t plan connecting to it in the future. That line should have been in the ground a long time ago. Love the videos keep it going get that timber and flooring permanently covered in.
Ughhh why does everyone think these new stihl files are good! Don't use them!!!! Learn to use a real file and raker gauge, use a Carlton file card. Best out there.
Ocean View Tree Services I agree completely that there are better tools and techniques than a handheld device that allows you to change the pitch every stroke.
A tree that close to the house is a weed! Those tree roots can be very destructive! I've learned the hard way. I think Alyssa and Jesse are great but they'd be wise to give up on this tree! Like someone else said though if they piled soil up against the bark it will probably die soon anyway.
Hey, good to see a new video guys! I've missed y'all. Looking forward to seeing more progress and the big celebration the day you move into that house :)
Great to get a TH-cam update but really our two heroes have been playing fun in the snow as their Facebook page tells us. I wish the videos reflected a closer timeline to reality, I’m slightly confused seeing such uncohesive December videos when it’s almost Feb. Realise you’ve lots of footage to upload but don’t stress out trying to edit everything, it’s not all worthwhile IMHO.
It would be impossible for them to match "time lines". That is just way to much do. Alyssa works a long side Jessy. He works all day long. So for her to work all day and then have to sift through 8 hrs of film sitting at a desk is crazy to ask her to do after working outside all day. This isn't a daily vlog. Go watch Roman atwood for that lol. This is a property development channel.
Lol what if the producer at universal told the editors and the directors to cut corner and don't cut all of the crab out. That's like your boss telling you "hey I only want you to do 40% of your work today and I'm only paying you for 40%".
Tokin- I’m sure any producer at Universal has considerably more budget than our duo does. Also they are well insured for re shoots and re edits. Im not entirely sure I understand your other points but my point was that it’s not always necessary to show everything in glorious drip feed segments and that perhaps a less-is-more approach is all that’s required with the potential mountain of raw footage that remains unedited. I know this because we are getting videos filmed in Dec but uploaded in Jan that don’t really stick out as being hugely interesting to anyone else but longer term fans.
Tokin - time lines. This is absolutely the issue. Sorting through footage at this stage shouldn’t be necessary as they would ideally only be filming essential sequences. The actual bigger problem is the ever waffling Jesse, who by speaking so excessivlely is generating far more work for Alyssa than will ever be fully appreciated here on YT. Continuing along the same lines as they have been, we will likely be seeing Feb footage in June and by the time the house is completed Alyssa will have 5 months of Jesse waffles to still edit. Their video workload by now and at this middle stage in the project is self determined so there are no hard and fast rules. This is why I think an amnesty on obsolete footage would be no bad thing, especially for Alyssa who clearly hasn’t told Jesse to say less and get to the point sooner.
I'm surprised that you covered the pipe for the heating, you'll have to destroy the drainage system to make the connection, a piece of straight pipe brought out to beyond the drain would have been better, you' only have to dig a bit of soil to get to it. Or even make the connection and leave the coil sticking up.
I keep a half dozen chains ready. I can change the chain faster that sharpening. Then I take the dull ones to be sharpened all at once. No problem with dull or imperfect sharpening. Pretty cheap also
Thanks dave1135. I should have mentioned that I only chainsaw when I have to and I am sharpener challenged. Changing chains gets me back on the project faster. Good advice though. I should hone my sharpening skills. The Stihl device is the way to go from most accounts and not that pricey. But honestly I hope I never have to use the damn thing again.
Please don't use flex pipe for your drain. It will collapse in a few years. Use schedule 40 rigid pipe. Why did you put the tyvek over the drainage? That's a MONUMENTAL mistake. Please get rid of it ASAP. You are sealing in moisture around your foundation! I can't think of a worse decision when dealing with drainage than that. There is a floating water table underneath the ground. Your foundation is going to be ruined within 5 years, guaranteed. Why do you think there is all that moisture at the top?! You're creating a swamp around your house and in the winter, when that freezes.......OMG total disaster and the fist bump celebration at the end was just so sad. You've ruined your house and all the hard work you've put in if you don't redo this.
That “swamp” is from high clay soil. I have the same stuff where I live, I don’t have tyvek anywhere obviously, and I still have standing water. I still wouldn’t recommend that tyvek, but that’s not the problem you’re seeing. That clay-dirt just sucks!! Unless you want to build a pizza oven, then it’s great.
After connecting the sewer to the house are you going to move the trailer in the garage area ? It would probably be warmer by stretching plastic across the doors on frame work by using the boards piled up by the saw mill.
It has 10” rubber wheels and a hand crank reversible pump with an 8ft hose. I simply bring my tractor close by and fill up. Agree it is not for muddy dirt but on normal level ground it sure beats lifting 5 gallon cans. Plus no spills. Also you can fill up the caddy by reverse cranking the pump and sucking out the 5 gallon tank. Works for me.
Yes but since it is not water permeable, and does allow vapor through it is not functioning like terrasheet or landscape cloth does alone for a classic drain construction. So the why matches what I wrote previously.
I hope you don't have problems with your backfill. Tyvek is designed to let vapor transfer through but to stop water transmission. The way you installed the Tyvek you have restricted water from reaching the stone (the stone acts like a gutter to move the water to the drain tile) then being transported away by the drain tile (which acts like a downspout on a gutter system). Filter fabric is meant to allow water through but restrict sand and silt from migrating into the stone, thereby reducing it's effectiveness as a drain. Filter fabric and Tyvek are designed to do different jobs.
Yes you are absolutely right
I feel really bad for Jesse and Alyssa, putting all that hard work into the backfilling, only to find out that they made a critial mistake. I am a licensed professional Civil Engineer (I am not licensed in Idaho) with 40+ years of experience, and everyone who has pointed out that they shouldn't have put the Tyvek behind or over the crushed rock are correct. I'm sure they had good intentions, and didn't realize that the Tyvek was essentially waterproof.
Digging it back up and replacing the Tyvek is the correct thing to do, but before doing that, I would suggest that Jesse talk to his engineer and get direction from him. As others have said, the Tyvek behind the rock will trap water, causing hydrostatic pressure to be exerted on the rock, which in turn will exert pressure on the back wall of the house. I don't know if the engineer designed for hydrostatic pressure, if he did, then they are probably fine, if not then digging it back up may be the best option. Again, this is something he needs to discuss with his engineer.
I have never heard of nor seen anyone waterproof a drain system like that. It doesn't make any sense to me. That's what the filter fabrics are for to prevent clogging of dirt in the system. Also you waterproofed the ICFs and have a drain and now are using tyvek as a way to move water away from the house which doesn't seem that great to me. Please explain better the reasoning of wateproofing your drainage system and where you got this information from? Curiosity not trying to knock what you are doing but have never seen this practice and there is always something to learn.
I'm curious as to why you used Tyvek in your foundation drain system? As far as I know tyvek is water proof and will not allow liquid water to penetrate it although it will let water vapor through. Most people use a landscape fabric which allows water through . Can you give me your thoughts on this
Tyvek is the wrong material to use
No builder i have worked with in 40yrs have ever back filled a house this way, it is a complete waste of time and effort i just finished my 62nd house and i have never seen this method.
No, when you put the drain tile on the outside you put down a cover fabric to let the water through so that the tile moves the water to a sump or a french drain. Yuo do not stop the water from going to the tile you let the drain tile do its job
Should tyvek be used as filter fabric? Shouldnt landscaping filter fabric be used?
They are trying to use the tyvek as a waterproof barrier to hopefully get more water away from the foundation.
They're trying to use it to divert water, not just filter. Soil and turf or other ground cover will divert most anyhow. If foundation drainage discharges to nature, there is no need for diverting. Clay will be a barrier and system will not be overloaded.
Mark Long that is not a construction practice. A footer drain needs, perforated drain pipe, clean stone and a filter fabric. Their set up is not a proven practice. And their system will not work properly.
Dan Gates that is not a construction practice. A footer drain needs, perforated drain pipe, clean stone and a filter fabric. Their set up is not a proven practice. And their system will not work properly.
I did not say what they were was correct and I don't agree with it but their house, their rules.
Not sure what your grading aspirations will be for the back of the house, but the house is at the bottom of a rather large hill. I would consider installing a french drain a bit back from the house on an angle to capture and re-direct a lot of that run off that I'm sure will be coming down that hill.
I told yall this before, but, it's apparent that you didnt listen so I'll tell you one more time. You better quit dinking around with all that non essential chaff and concentrate your time and resources on getting the house dried in!!!!!. The floor is getting wet even with the plastic that you have over it and it is going to start swelling and will cause all sorts of problems when it does, and the pretty wood on the frame is going to go south pretty quick and you will be left with a dull grey finish.
ronnie32567 I have to agree, I would lay at least a breathable membrane on the whole structure, relatively check and easy to secure.
They do so so many things ass about face that im getting so pissed off at them for making more problems for themselves
Its hard for those of us that know things from years in the industry, to watch those that think they know more, do stuff they shouldn't. Karma will teach them soon enough.
David, as do I, with all the hard work they are putting into the house, I just hate to see them wind up disappointed because of water damage to the good start that they have on the house.
Rod,I will do just that, It's never to late to learn and if I stuck my foot in my mouth maybe it will keep me from doing it again. lol
Cant wrap my head around all the support. Dont you guys see?
I can't wrap my head around all the haters that come here just to bash what they are doing! If you don't like it, GO AWAY!
Must have been a typo on that Tyvek, it said house wrap, I'm sure it meant French drain wrap
This video is 2 months old, took 9 days to posted from the last video. They put Tyvek in the ground to water proof the drainage ditch??? instead of landscape fabric, and some viewers praise them on the good job they are doing go figure.
Welcome back, I wish you would talk through what you next steps are. To comment on this is only for someone else's project has you did this work over a month ago. So, anyone when you have a pipe that you want to wait on connect it run it out 3-8 ft, what ever space you have then snub it up to the surface and cap it. When you are ready you only have to dig down to the bend. You don't disturb the drainage work around the house.
Love what you are doing. Continue to make each other happy.
Gotta love when Alyssa (sp.) makes a point in 3 sentences and then Jesse (sp.) goes on for four minutes saying the exact same thing... you can see in her face that she is used to this kind of dynamic.
Putting tyvac down totally defeats the purpose of everything you have done up to this point. The water is supposed to filter down through the rock. Preventing the water from getting down there is ridiculous. Then why did you do all the drainage steps that you did.... Smh
Richard Shaw I was wondering the same thing. Wont it just hold water?! Its a highly water resistant product
RJCOutdoors
I was asking that to myself all along. Seems, they create like two separate layers?! 🤔
As a 40+ year experienced Civil Engineer your drainage system and detail confounds me. The purpose of its installation is to collect subsoil water and direct it away from your foundations and protect your house, whilst your installation method and detail defeats that purpose. Good luck though with your build.
Being an armchair builder for a second: I would have definitely added a short extension to that pass-through for your PEX through your drain rock instead of capping it off. Much easier to penetrate and seal the Tyvek now before you put rock in than after. A 10' piece of pipe could have saved you from having to mess with your drain rock later. Just my .02
Throw that stupid Stihl Sharpener away and just use a normal file. How many time have they saw people tell them how to correctly sharpen their saws and they still have no clue
I don’t think tyvek is an underground rated material is it lol.
In layers!! Enough with the Tyvek! Defeating the purpose of the drain and gravel. It's going to puddle in layers, freeze/thaw, sit/seep everything BUT drain.
I'm surprised you guys left your roof open for so long. I have sips roofs, but what I did was sheath the timberframe with 1x8 T&G pine (with a transparent white stain from Permachink), and then synthetic roof paper over that (titanium UDL50), stapled with pneumatic Auto stapler(shoots staples like a machine gun as you drag it across the surface. This will make your frame water protected from the roof (except for side blowing rain), and at the same time give you the nice looking T&G from the inside. I only use sips on the roof because I know I will change the electrical as I'm going along in the build, but an added bonus is I can 2x6 frame the walls, sheath them and house wrap them and then the whole frame is dried in. As far as the sips on the roof, we add a 2x grid horizontally and vertically with 2'x2' spacing and screw the sips on top of that. We use that 2x spacing to run conduit for all of our ceiling lighting, track lighting etc and in some cased to get power from one side of the building to the other as it can be an easier path in some instances.
While you have the small excavator you need to cut a wide area around the back so you can walk and create a ditch with the slope away from the house so that the water that comes down the hill is channeled away from the house
The Tryvex is so silly. They're making soil that doesn't drain well right next to the foundation
That saw chain is dull as a 2x4. The chain has been improperly sharpened so often it's time to just get a new one.
You dont want trees that close to your foundation never mind the fire risk.There are min distances for different species of tree but none are that close.Still cant figure out why you keep putting Twyvec on top of your rock filter,might as well not bothered with the rock.
Nevermind he killed the tree anyways with the excavator....
Trying to understand why you put a drain system in with rock and a drainage pipe and then wrap it in Tyvec. Looks like you will be building tremendous amounts of hydraulic pressure behind your slab. What is your idea on this Jess ? I'm lost.
The tyvek don't let water true that's why the mud. You should use fabric to separate stone and dirt. The drain would keep the water away from basement/garage walls
Trees close to homes are a forest fire house destroyer.
actually the NFPA studies show that ember buildup is the biggest house ignition source. The embers collect in traps and at the base of walls which then ignite. Check out the NFPA web site and Firewise.
That chain is shot. You guys should consider buying 10 or so, and once one is dull swapping it out. When you get 7 or 8 dull chains, bring them to a saw shop that knows how to sharpen a chain.
I agree. A sharpening service is really CHEAP. Ace hardware does it.
doesn't covering the rock negate drainage ? just doesn't make much sense to me but i just fix furnaces .
I realize that it already burried, but why did you choose tyvek? I thought filter fabric was the ideal barrier between the rock and dirt.
Robert Lowery far too logical for these two Robert. This way they can make a video in two years of them fixing it all
They used tyvek because they didn’t want the water to penetrate into the rock.
Joshua Lillie trapping water beside your foundation so that your drain can stay dry, makes perfect sense
Joshua Lillie I would have assumed they did this to stop the silting up of the drainage rock,don’t quote me but I think he made mention of it in one of the earlier videos but I could be mistaken.These folks have done a great job of this so far in my opinion as husband and wife owner builders with the help of the shelter workshop crew no less which was a shrewd move on their part and certainly with the educational side of these videos imparting knowledge to those who with to do similar it’s certainly an invaluable learning curve all around,love this and can’t wait to see the end product.Take care.
I enjoy watching what they are up to, sometimes I have questions about why they are doing things a certain way. I have watched the "This Old House" crew work on a number of foundation and drainage projects and I have not seen them use anything but landscape/filter fabric. Maybe it is just a difference in budget. They might both get the job done.
Alyssa you are a badass of a homesteader! From picking berries, cooking & canning to composter, tractor driver and chainsaw operator you are not Wonderwoman you are AWESOME!
Jesse you are a very lucky guy! It has been a pleasure to watch you two progress. I first found your channel last fall and have been watching 3 or 4 videos a day and I get glued to my phone or iPad while drinking my morning coffee.
Thank you for letting us into your lives and watch your efforts!
It’s like watching a car accident. I cringe at every episode, but can’t wait for the next. Imagine what Alyssa could do with good content.
That was God that threw the rock trying to knock some sense into you!!! LOL
That tree has been in your way since the beginning! It's way to close to the house in case of forest fires.
The key to that sharpening tool is to push down while you are making your stroke, that will hit the rakers. Remember that tool only works on the push stroke. If you don't push down and only forward you'll hit the tooth only. Best way to do it is to put your bar in a vise and use both hands on the sharpener. One on front and one back and keep your tool perpendicular to the bar. If you don't you won't hit both rakers on a safety chain. Newer chains don't have a real deep gullet, when you push down while sharpening you deepen the gullet and hit the rakers. It generally takes 4 or more sharpenings to get the chain cutting real good.
good info, thanks
I wish that I knew a LOT more about sharpening a chain saw,Dude. City boy am I.
I think they need to clear the trees for 100 ft around the house for fire protection. Now, very dangerous.
Actually,that is good thinking+ it will keep needles out of the gutters.
In the summer is way more important. Shade? NO.
Please get a roof on that before all the timbers get weathered
John mclaughlin they cant put the roof on untill the walls are up because they are using SIPs
Sorry you spent all that money on that drain rock and then put that stupid tyvex on it and defeated the purpose of that expensive drainrock ??
He mentioned it in a previous video. His idea is that if he can prevent water from getting to the drain rock (treating it as a backup. it might not get plugged up with dirt down the road.
The drain rock isn’t for water on top of the surface. They will do landscaping to slope it away from the house.
I look at the proximity of the trees to the house and I kind of believe that for fire break I'd remove a few that are really close but not too many. Most of them are higher than the house and fire burns UP easier than down.
Did you talk to your engineer or soils guy about putting a berm above the house to divert surface water to the side?
That tree should be removed asap. It's roots will go after that water barrier! Then guess what's next? The foundation of your house. Just saying .
Yes but the roots will never stop growing even after you remove it. Need to give it a hair cut every year or so with a rod machine for maintenance.
That is their chicken killing tree. They won't remove that one.
Joe Worden Worst possible excuse. There are other trees.
Maybe that tree has sentimental value.... Try watching her chicken killing video from way back when.
Joe Worden lol. I've seen it. Funny response. I can hear the conversation right after they find the damage that is going to cost them thousands of dollars and a month of living in the travel trailer. "Well... I guess we should have listened and taken that tree down...." "Yep. But hey! At least we have all those good memories of chickens we killed on that tree!"
They want mementos, have someone carve a rooster, a hen, and chicks from the wood after the tree comes down.
Aloha Jessie & Alisa, I used to use exhaust gas from a running engine to soften hard plastic line, it worked nice and fairly quick.
Good idea that.
Innovation Award 🥇
"The building looks like a Picasso..." LOL!
Can't believe that there's still no roof on yet ! Even tarps would be better than nothing guys
Zen Zen they agree. But this property and the wind, don’t play nicely with tarps. That’s what happened to the RV shelter twice.
Not putting the green pipe in now is going to come back and bite you.. Having to dig everything out again later, when it was all open and easy now.. Could be a big mistake
Gilbern Invader I think they made the right choice, but I would have put a lead out to to get you away from the foundation 5-8' And put a screw in plug on both ends. Then put a 2x4 standing up to mark the lead, and some lathe/ stickers at the end or a little stone to mark when you are close, when you go to dig it up later.
INSTALL THE HOSE! Or at least that was what i was thinking. Would there been an issue by installing the hose for but only coming out 5 or so feet and bring it up to the surface that way it you wouldn't have to deal with the backfill and finish trenching out were the outside boiler would be in the future. With the hose being coiled and cold that short run MAY have been a option.
OF Course its easy to say when Im not the one putting all the blood, sweat, and tears into it. Jesse and Alyssa keep doing what your doing the way you need it done!!! you guys are AWSOME
I truly believe this girl has the heart of an angel. I rarely see this quality today.
Angels don't use swear words. I do. A LOT.
i would have extended the pvc pipe out past the drain rock. Then later when you dig it up to run pex through it, you wouldnt dig up drain rocks !!!
Ridiculous use of the house wrap. Counterproductive. Agree with everyone else about the tree. Disaster waiting to happen.
How prone is your area to bush fires in the summer, remember you are building a wood frame house, trees that close to a house can become the source of the flame that could start the house a fire. It's a nice idea to have nature up close, but, it's better to be safe than sorry. I missed you over the last week, suppose this time of year everyone is in need of a holiday. keep up the how to.
Cheers,
Dave
Good Job! I've never seen Tyvek used that way though... Here in the N.W., Tyvek is used as a "rainscreen" on walls to prevent water intrusion. But your washed river rock is intended to channel water away from the building and prevent hydrostatic pressure building up against your foundation. But instead, the water is kept "outside" of the Tyvek barrier which wraps the rock, so water is pushing on that barrier, pushing on the rock, pushing on the foundation. In other words, if the Tyvek is too carefully encompassing the rock, then the rock isn't allowed to do its job, and the intended hydrostatic pressure relief is not provided. (Imagine putting your drain rock in a large sealed plastic pipe, where it's isolated from the water.)
Incidentally, Tyvek allows "humidity" molecules to pass through, but not water (oddly) and not air as air molecules are bigger. And keep in mind (when siding your house) that the tannin acid in cedar eats Tyvek. They don't mix. If you're not using cedar, I recommend the crinkly Tyvek "DrainWrap" that "drains" water that might get behind the siding.
Ken the architect.
Ken Paulsen so win-win then? Tannin acid=holes in tyvek=drainage?
You’re supposed to put filter fabric over your drain rock before you backfill to keep sediment out of the washed rock and that allows the drain rock to actually drain water away
They put tyvek, that doesn't let water go through. The land behind the house will weigh twice as much and put hard pressure on the house. What's worse than backfilling a house in a hill ? Digging it all out again.
How to be positive and supportive when pointing out a mistake?? The muck on the back side of the house is due in part to clay, but mostly because water can only flow over the ground surface. The drain and rock are surrounded by impenetrable membrane. The expensive rock will stay clean and dry but will move no water. I genuinely want them to succeed, and hope they'll get good advice going forward.
First, you don't put expensive rock down there. Clean 3/4" is perfect and way cheaper. That rock helps the soil to drain and remove weight and hydraulic pressure on the wall. Even with clay, it helps greatly.
I want them to succeed but they will make mistakes if they don't get proper help/knowledge and once it's done, it's too bad.
I don't know what kind of wind you have there, but given the lay of the land I've seen in your vids, I'd say you can get some pretty sever gusts.......I wouldn't depend on those screws used to secure your posts to just the joists. Consider placing galvanized 18 GA.metal straps about a foot up on your posts (will be covered by your panels), dropping down to the bottom of your plate secured with #10 X 4" screws, four on the posts, two on the plate. This is similar to what's done in Hurricane regions......and for good reason.
The Tree,..........................NEEDS TO GO !!!
I think in the end of the video the tree isn't in the frame. It might be gone!
Actually, it was still definitely there in the last few seconds. But yes, it really needs to go.
The more I watch this channel the more I find myself talking to the tv... So much wrong here with literally no questioning to "is that okay?" Or "should I call my tradesman buddy"? Like wow Jesse.. that pipe stub out is.. wow
ROFL... dat Tyvek :/
We wouldn't want all that pretty drain rock getting damp, now would we? LOL
Tyvek house wrap TAPE is the best,IMO.Designed to work when damp and resists moisture.I don't even have "duct tape".
I wish these videos were more real time but I understand your load of tasks. Too late now but the pipe for the radiant could have been extended another 8 or 10 ft away from the foundation so when/if you do use it you don't have to dig up tight to the house.
Keep up the hard work.
I enjoy your videos. Brings back memories of when I built my house and items you use that would have made my job easier that weren't around then
Goofy expresion for cover photo explains it ALL
Having installed infloor heating ,outdoor wood boilers ,and boilers for a living .Your wise to wait till you know exactly where you want it and you can plan your inside piping with the placement of the pex coming though the wall . 34 years of doing this talking . keep up the good work guys
I know you two love trees but you should rely take that tree out with the chicken killing thing out. its to close to the house and the longer you what the bigger and harder the tree will get and its just going to damage the house be a fire risk and get in the way of building the house. I see jessy has learned to us the blade to level the mini , and Alysas getting better at the tractor. when using the sharpener on the chain show you need to put both hands on the sharpener and keep in at the right angle to the blade, I find it ezzy er to just put the thing in a vice to hold the show steady. good going.
Love the videos! But, I really wish you would make the music about 50% volume... Makes me have to turn up the volume to hear ya'll talk, then randomly get blasted with loud music...
Not a big deal but if you guys would quit messing up those saw chains and get 3-4 spares, you will save a lot of time. They dont cost much and would save you sooooo much time just doing a 2 minute swap out, that you would be amazed . That way you could get a real sharpener [electric bench mount for about $150] and have razor sharp fast cutting chains all the time. My average time to do 6 chains razor sharp is under an hour and thats 2 different pitches.
Bob Texan can you give me a link to what you are using?
That east side tree has had so much root damage at this point that you should drop it before it drops itself. If it were salvageable, you have lots of stone to build a well around the tree to keep the dirt off the trunk.
It's when they tell us their logic that it gets ridiculous! Keep us in suspense and just let us wonder....good example of when less is more!
I know its probably way too late but if you fill plastic pipe with boiling hot water it softens right up. Just don't forget its boiling hot and pour it on the top of your foot. It doesnt take much to fill a rather long length.
Michael Marriam hot tub water perhaps...
Good progress. Good music selections. Great capture of Bugaboo.
When you are scooping up with the backhoe move the tilt of the bucket up and down as it will fill the bucket more ...yes I can operate one and my so called father had a JCB for many many years 😜😜😜😜. Also wear some ear protection please
While I understand you wanting to save trees, but in forest fire language, trees and brush close to a structure is considered by the FIREFIGHTERS to be, "LADDER FUEL", and to be avoided at all costs. No one is perfect, and I can see that this build has come at a cost. Good luck with your adventures.
Nice job on grading that slope ,hope you have a new chain by now.
Check which file you are using on your saw. The file must match the chain you are filing or the results will be a slow cutter like you are experiencing.
Put the drain pipe in the hot tub.
Your PEX should have gone in months ago. So at this point, wait,, don't worry about it. It may never go in.
You have take great pains, and correctly so, to preserve the tree on the east side. But then you ran your mini excavator back and forth over the roots, In general,, not alway,, tree roots should not be run over. The area to avoid is the drip line of the tree. Most of the roots are in that area. On that tree now,, time will tell.
Just a suggestion to save a lot of back work/pain. Try using a Pulp Hook for moving firewood. Checkout Labonville or Baileys logging supplies. I never handle firewood without using mine
I first saw the pulp hook on Off grid homesteader Cecil E Skinner's channel, definitely getting one!
Julian S
Around here we call that tool a pickeroon. They are very handy for moving firewood or slab lumber at the sawmill.
for gosh sake get a roof on the structure and get it weathered in. Paralysis by analysis once again.
Yeah, I get it, but at some reasonable point, you just have to pick some darn windows and get on with it. I respect the hell out of them for doing what they're doing. All the time they took planing and sawing to the gnats behind and now it sits in the rain. Water and wood is not so bueno. The oil may help a bit, but damage is being done with each precip event. They have already invested a LOT of effort and care. I just see much of that degrading in the weather. And that's a shame. Generally you preplan to eliminate show stoppers and prioritize to that end. If I knew windows would put the show on hold, they would have been chosen WAY before the timbers were even sawn. I'm sure it will all be ok in the end, but if they are as anal about finish as I am, they are creating LOTS of work on the back end that shouldn't have had to happen. See: critical path method. It works. Anyway, hope they keep up the good work. I'm sure their batteries could use a charge.
Jesse, bury the thermopex now and leave the coil sticking out 8" from the house. You can re-route it later but it will at least be stubbed into the basement and you can finish the drain rock.
Well since this video is probably filmed 2 months ago, they might (probably haven't) have dug and installed that properly by now.
Could the tarp/plastic on the subfloor be set up in tent-like formation, so the water would run off the floor over the edges? There's plenty of hanging points.
Thats what I thought.
You made a bad decision with the boiler line. Poor planning plus that fitting is nowhere on properly I hope you don’t plan connecting to it in the future. That line should have been in the ground a long time ago. Love the videos keep it going get that timber and flooring permanently covered in.
Jesse, Take the green pipe over the truck exhaust pipe. The heat should relax the pipe. I have seen others do that with PVC.
Wow that's pretty smart! Never would have thought that haha
I seen A company made Schedule 40 PVC pipe curved in circles. Really.
Nah - throw it in the hot tub for easier and faster results! I use hot water on spaflex all the time
,...and I would have run the pipe through the wall and trenched and left it about 10 feet away from the wall and coiled up like a snail above ground
That is a good thought. We are both genius.
Ughhh why does everyone think these new stihl files are good! Don't use them!!!! Learn to use a real file and raker gauge, use a Carlton file card. Best out there.
Ocean View Tree Services I agree completely that there are better tools and techniques than a handheld device that allows you to change the pitch every stroke.
I hate the word tyvek now
Why do they want the one tree right up against their house like that. It has been in there way the whole time
If you had fought that hard to keep it in the first place you probably wouldn't want to cut it down at that point either.
I agree. I would not want those tree roots in my drain system,anyway,let alone the pine needles in my gutters/roof.
It will be dying by this spring--got it's roots buried.
A tree that close to the house is a weed! Those tree roots can be very destructive! I've learned the hard way. I think Alyssa and Jesse are great but they'd be wise to give up on this tree! Like someone else said though if they piled soil up against the bark it will probably die soon anyway.
Hey, good to see a new video guys! I've missed y'all. Looking forward to seeing more progress and the big celebration the day you move into that house :)
BobF2000 iii
The pine tree you've worked around will die. You drove over and compressed the root system then back filled up the trunk of the tree. FYI.
Does it hurt the timber-frame being out in the elements and drying out like that or no it seems like it dries out faster being out in the open?
Wishing you the best. Thanks for sharing your experience.
She even sharpens her own chainsaw chain, definitely a keeper!
Great to get a TH-cam update but really our two heroes have been playing fun in the snow as their Facebook page tells us. I wish the videos reflected a closer timeline to reality, I’m slightly confused seeing such uncohesive December videos when it’s almost Feb. Realise you’ve lots of footage to upload but don’t stress out trying to edit everything, it’s not all worthwhile IMHO.
It would be impossible for them to match "time lines". That is just way to much do. Alyssa works a long side Jessy. He works all day long. So for her to work all day and then have to sift through 8 hrs of film sitting at a desk is crazy to ask her to do after working outside all day. This isn't a daily vlog. Go watch Roman atwood for that lol. This is a property development channel.
Lol what if the producer at universal told the editors and the directors to cut corner and don't cut all of the crab out.
That's like your boss telling you "hey I only want you to do 40% of your work today and I'm only paying you for 40%".
Tokin- I’m sure any producer at Universal has considerably more budget than our duo does. Also they are well insured for re shoots and re edits. Im not entirely sure I understand your other points but my point was that it’s not always necessary to show everything in glorious drip feed segments and that perhaps a less-is-more approach is all that’s required with the potential mountain of raw footage that remains unedited. I know this because we are getting videos filmed in Dec but uploaded in Jan that don’t really stick out as being hugely interesting to anyone else but longer term fans.
Tokin - time lines. This is absolutely the issue. Sorting through footage at this stage shouldn’t be necessary as they would ideally only be filming essential sequences. The actual bigger problem is the ever waffling Jesse, who by speaking so excessivlely is generating far more work for Alyssa than will ever be fully appreciated here on YT.
Continuing along the same lines as they have been, we will likely be seeing Feb footage in June and by the time the house is completed Alyssa will have 5 months of Jesse waffles to still edit.
Their video workload by now and at this middle stage in the project is self determined so there are no hard and fast rules. This is why I think an amnesty on obsolete footage would be no bad thing, especially for Alyssa who clearly hasn’t told Jesse to say less and get to the point sooner.
Looking good. Hope all is going well. Thanks for sharing. Love bugaboo on the backhoe roof.
I'm surprised that you covered the pipe for the heating, you'll have to destroy the drainage system to make the connection, a piece of straight pipe brought out to beyond the drain would have been better, you' only have to dig a bit of soil to get to it.
Or even make the connection and leave the coil sticking up.
We have been missing your videos
Welcome back, I trust the break was beyond needed.
Next time you need to straighten some of the green flex pipe, fire up the hot tub and drop it in to heat it up.
I keep a half dozen chains ready. I can change the chain faster that sharpening. Then I take the dull ones to be sharpened all at once. No problem with dull or imperfect sharpening. Pretty cheap also
Thanks dave1135. I should have mentioned that I only chainsaw when I have to and I am sharpener challenged. Changing chains gets me back on the project faster. Good advice though. I should hone my sharpening skills. The Stihl device is the way to go from most accounts and not that pricey. But honestly I hope I never have to use the damn thing again.
I did the same thing...oh wait I mean the exact opposite and every thing worked out perfect.
Please don't use flex pipe for your drain. It will collapse in a few years. Use schedule 40 rigid pipe. Why did you put the tyvek over the drainage? That's a MONUMENTAL mistake. Please get rid of it ASAP. You are sealing in moisture around your foundation! I can't think of a worse decision when dealing with drainage than that. There is a floating water table underneath the ground. Your foundation is going to be ruined within 5 years, guaranteed. Why do you think there is all that moisture at the top?! You're creating a swamp around your house and in the winter, when that freezes.......OMG total disaster and the fist bump celebration at the end was just so sad. You've ruined your house and all the hard work you've put in if you don't redo this.
That “swamp” is from high clay soil. I have the same stuff where I live, I don’t have tyvek anywhere obviously, and I still have standing water. I still wouldn’t recommend that tyvek, but that’s not the problem you’re seeing. That clay-dirt just sucks!! Unless you want to build a pizza oven, then it’s great.
Ive never seen Tyvec used on a drain.
When we have an extra pipe for future use we seal it with expanding foam at the end and dig it down. We can drill them open when we need them.
After connecting the sewer to the house are you going to move the trailer in the garage area ? It would probably be warmer by stretching plastic across the doors on frame work by using the boards piled up by the saw mill.
I adore the videos and like to see the house project increase slightly!
It has 10” rubber wheels and a hand crank reversible pump with an 8ft hose. I simply bring my tractor close by and fill up. Agree it is not for muddy dirt but on normal level ground it sure beats lifting 5 gallon cans. Plus no spills. Also you can fill up the caddy by reverse cranking the pump and sucking out the 5 gallon tank. Works for me.
Look at Alyssa driving that backhoe! Woo-hoo!
Best team ever!
So the Tyvek is a shed cover to move water away from the wall and drain pipe and the drain rock is a last ditch drain material against the wall.
Yes but since it is not water permeable, and does allow vapor through it is not functioning like terrasheet or landscape cloth does alone for a classic drain construction. So the why matches what I wrote previously.