I worked at ESP Guitars in North Hollywood California and we would use this technique for artists if they wanted this done. It also works on guitars with binding.
I found some 400 grit sanding sponges that i just run up and down the edge and it leaves a gentle radius on the edge and dresses the fretboard and frets at the same time. It really does leave a very nice finished product.
Mineax makes wipe on poly . If the neck has a finish , you can use Phil’s technique and then carefully wipe on some poly to hide the lighter color . You could also use gun oil.
To each his own. Soft backed polishing sticks held at an angle down the entire fretboard does the fretboard edge and fret ends at the same time. Prefer it to scraping wood between frets with a razor. Cheers!
I just turned an unplayable Epiphone Jerry Cantrell Bone White Les Paul into a beautiful playing guitar with the lowest action and best hand feel, with flats and learning Jazz licks with it, watching your videos, and Stew Mac’s gave me the courage to fix a noise I couldn’t get rid of regardless of relief and string height. So I dressed my own frets! Taped up the neck, sanded lightly using a 12” radius sand block and 360 to 1000 then switch to string fret erasers, (these things are great by the way) and never crowned the tops, the flats that were created with the 12” radius sanding block were between 0.5 to 1mm wide as wide as how my vintage SG’s frets are, so when I erased them working through the grits I rounded and polished the ends I also super glued the frets down while I was at it. I actually need to do this with my Gibson but thought I’d pop my cherry with what is a beautiful guitar just sitting in the case and now that guitar out plays the Gibby, I mean the low E is set at 1.4mm and the High E is 1.2mm and I hit the strings hard! No noise, no buzz, just the ring of a perfect chord! Thanks Phil for all that I’ve learned from your videos over the years, my dude!
Lovely explanation. I taught luthiery for a decade and this is a really solid "starter for ten". Keep doing these as there are a lot less shops for people to take their guitar to...
@@BD-zg7is If he does a good job then that is not a bad price. Plek is about three times that. You could get together with your buddies and bring in an out of town luthier to do all of your maintainance at the same time. Always a good excuse for beers and jamming...
I used to do it this way, blade and sanding. Then I saw a video of Paul Davids using a foam sanding block. I tried that idea on a cheaper neck and it saved me so much time. I finished off by polishing the frets because the sanding block makes the fret edges a little rough. Then I used the fret one oil and it was great. Who knew?? I really miss chatting with you in your shop Phil, but at least I still get to watch your interwebs diatribes. God bless you for all you do. So much appreciated
This is what I do. Not only does it take the edge of the neck, it also rounds off the fret ends. I bought a very cheap Squier bass with fret ends I would characterize as bleeders. The foam blocked quickly rounded off even those bass frets.
I might do this to my practice guitars. A cheap carbon composite, not that fancy weave. My walking in the rain, practice while boiling water and frying eggs guitar, my bang into doorframes, dont need to plug in guitar. People might think they are toys but they can sit out of the case, accompany through the woods in the snow calling my dog. Cheap, comfortable, light, convenient, Enya. Just checked and there is enough meat to file on the outside corner. Testing for a bit to see how easy it is to slip off edge, down the fret crown, should have enough. These are cast into the neck. Its a carbon fiber embedded resin cast type thing. I just think of it as plastic casting. Reminds me of a tool body material and the paint them. I round a lot of edges as a finishing contractor.
The best thing to use is a board nail file. You file the whole corner, fret wire and all. You don't need to sand anything, and it looks better. Use a radius motion when you're breaking the edge. Takes about 5 minutes to do one side.
Great way to start! Keeping in mind 'you can't put it back' is good advice! Years ago I came across a cheap neck with a broken truss rod that was not worth fixing. I used that to practice several things on, rolling edges was one. Any maple board with a 90d edge may work also to get the "feel". Peace --gary
If you can't find the razor blade he's using, it's because it's not a razor blade, it's a refill blade for a Stanley Knife, known in some countries as a Utility Knife. It's like the big brother of a Box Cutter.
My US Stratocaster came with rounded fretboard edges . I believe it was the first year Fender started doing it. 1999 although it may have been a year or so earlier .
Yeah man! Thanks for doing this video !!! I find that I like to have the high e side rolled very little, and the low E side rolled just a wee bit more. A hard edge bothers my thumb when it comes over the low E side, but a hard edge doesn't bother my fingers much at all. Maybe I'll figure out why - someday.
The quickest and least intrusive way is to use the back of a curved ‘warmed’ tea spoon. I used this on a wudtone maple Telecaster neck with great results in less than 30 minutes 🤷♂️
I have a Player Plus Strat and I was wondering why it's so much more comfortable to play than my other 2 guitars. The rolled fretboard makes an enormous difference.
rolling the edge is not relicing. Making the guitar comfortable to play is not like damaging the guitar and its finish or rusting the hardware. Relic guitars are win win for the manufacture only, as they can sell you the guitar with dings and scratches and you are happy to pay them more!!!! crazy world.
Would years of playing crush the edge instead of removing it? If you do this, then play for years, are you risking it wearing too far? Seems like the screwdriver thing would be more like a natural effect. I don’t know shyt when it comes to this. That’s why I’m asking. TY🤘🏻
Love it. ? wouldn't this method make the frets "sprout" a little? I would think a fret end beveling file with adjustable angles would take some wood and the fret ends, then fret dress, a little sand paper and wool... I know now we're leaving DIY territory.
what do you apply to the rolled surface if you are going to lacquer finish the unfinished maple neck after the rolling? just wipe the dust with alcohol and spray paint? will it even out the colour?
unfinished fingerboard is easier to me .like rosewood or any darker colour unfinished wood .. I start with scraping..then fine cut file to remove wavy cut.then ultra fine sanding sponge..steel wool if needed or anything similar available..then proceed to fret dress .on maple I just rolled with screw driver.. sometime rolled with screwdriver wasn't enough .still need to scrape and files to achieve how rounded edges I want
kind of sad that people are masters at computers and smart phones but are lost when it comes to sandpaper and screwdrivers , how do they feed themselves
I sanded the neck radius on my Yamaha FG-75, using a template I got from stewmac. They use a lot of laquer on them and I took that off, plus a few thousandths of the natural wood. It came out great using a 1954 LP template. My question is; I didn't have any oil for the natural wood and I didn't want to leave it unprotected, so after a seccion of playing Iused the sweat from my shirt as the oil to seal that neck wood. Again, it worked out great and even darkened the wood a bit. I think that should be enough to protect the wood if i keep applying this natural oil, as I live in the Vegas area and it's never too humid for long. Is this crazy because it seems to be working out...
Sweat does have small amounts of fat in it which is an oil but you should not be using any natural oils to seal wood. They tend to go rancid eventually so you'll have a smelly neck if you keep doing it. Most hydrating oils for guitars are just mineral oil with lemon fragrance since it never goes rancid so if you have it, mineral oil should be fine.
I am thinking of refretting an acoustic which has very narrow frets. I am considering going up a size or more in fret wire. My concern is that installing a different width fret than the factory will throw of the intonation or make the guitar play wierd. Any thoughts out there?
My issue is finding the right narrow neck, even though I have long fingers. My first electric guitar was a Gibson L6S Deluxe, which I played for many years. It has a very narrow neck. Everything else I try to play, I keep pressing between the strings.
another luthier way - takes moments to do. Apply pressure along fretboard edges using shaft of the screwdriver, This will compress and smooth the edge. With this method, you can roll the edge angle to taste
Great tutorial video Phil, quick question where did you buy that lamp @7:25 min of your video? I’m looking for a quality lamp with a lens in it too, thanks for the advice
Hey, @PhillipMcKnight ..., Is the neck at risk of getting _too narrow,_ such that the 1st string might _unintentionally_ "fall off" the side of the neck when giving it significant finger-vibrato? ...and, is there a way to avoid that problem, like ordering a neck with a slightly wider fretboard but slotting the nut a _tiny_ bit closer to the center than the norm?
Musicnomad, among others, will actually sell special files / file blocks that you can do this with, maybe check out one of those with one of those cheap necks? :) Also personally I'm against relicing in principle, like, I want my guitar to tell it's own story as I use it. However, if you pick up a guitar and there is that click, it doesn't matter anymore because that click is the most important thing you can have with something you can express yourself with. Be you an artist and have a special brush and pen, be you a guitarist, etc.
*pinches bridge of nose* you USE the screwdriver. Scraping is too destructive. You don't crush the fretboard using a screwdriver. You wear it down with a hardened surface JUST like your fingers would over time. Spend 10 or so minutes dragging the shaft up and down the neck and you will do a better job than scraping.
I noticed the chickenshit didn't use any bound necks...🤣🤣🤣 I do like his advice about not trying to get it done all at once though. I have a Gibson SG Special that has a bound neck and fret nibs. Each time I change the strings I give it a light going over with a utility blade. So far, so good...🙏🙏🙏
Rounding edges costs almost nothing in manufacture; run both sides down a router. They don't do it on lower end, to force you to buy the premium line. That's it. Don't get me started on pickups.
Non rolled fingerboards give me blisters on the insides of my fingers. I play over 40 hours a week and sharp edges just kill my little hands, way more than sharp fret edges too.
Let me just say this: I do NOT like my edges rolled AT ALL. I don't think your hands should ever even touch the edges of the fingerboard when you are actually playing it. My take, anyway.
"Hey Phil, Sweetwater here our sales of bandages and replacement guitar necks are both down - how about you create a video to boost the sales of both?" "I'm on it!"
I have a neck that was perfect except it had a fingerboard sharp enough to cut a diamond in half. It was hurting the base of my fingers. It's been smoothed. I can't see abandoning an otherwise great neck for a minor flaw that's easily corrected.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
I worked at ESP Guitars in North Hollywood California and we would use this technique for artists if they wanted this done.
It also works on guitars with binding.
I found some 400 grit sanding sponges that i just run up and down the edge and it leaves a gentle radius on the edge and dresses the fretboard and frets at the same time. It really does leave a very nice finished product.
This is the way.
Also my preferred method
Mineax makes wipe on poly . If the neck has a finish , you can use Phil’s technique and then carefully wipe on some poly to hide the lighter color . You could also use gun oil.
Me too.
I use a board nail file, with a radius motion. I also file the whole side, fret wire and all.
To each his own. Soft backed polishing sticks held at an angle down the entire fretboard does the fretboard edge and fret ends at the same time. Prefer it to scraping wood between frets with a razor. Cheers!
I've always used a foam sanding block, just run it up and down the edge, 5 minutes and done. I've only done rosewood though.
Also my preferred method!
Tape? What grit?
I just turned an unplayable Epiphone Jerry Cantrell Bone White Les Paul into a beautiful playing guitar with the lowest action and best hand feel, with flats and learning Jazz licks with it, watching your videos, and Stew Mac’s gave me the courage to fix a noise I couldn’t get rid of regardless of relief and string height. So I dressed my own frets! Taped up the neck, sanded lightly using a 12” radius sand block and 360 to 1000 then switch to string fret erasers, (these things are great by the way) and never crowned the tops, the flats that were created with the 12” radius sanding block were between 0.5 to 1mm wide as wide as how my vintage SG’s frets are, so when I erased them working through the grits I rounded and polished the ends I also super glued the frets down while I was at it. I actually need to do this with my Gibson but thought I’d pop my cherry with what is a beautiful guitar just sitting in the case and now that guitar out plays the Gibby, I mean the low E is set at 1.4mm and the High E is 1.2mm and I hit the strings hard! No noise, no buzz, just the ring of a perfect chord! Thanks Phil for all that I’ve learned from your videos over the years, my dude!
Lovely explanation. I taught luthiery for a decade and this is a really solid "starter for ten". Keep doing these as there are a lot less shops for people to take their guitar to...
I live in a decent sized town and there is one luthier who has wait times of at least a month...AND charges $150 for set up!
@@BD-zg7is If he does a good job then that is not a bad price. Plek is about three times that. You could get together with your buddies and bring in an out of town luthier to do all of your maintainance at the same time. Always a good excuse for beers and jamming...
I used to do it this way, blade and sanding. Then I saw a video of Paul Davids using a foam sanding block. I tried that idea on a cheaper neck and it saved me so much time. I finished off by polishing the frets because the sanding block makes the fret edges a little rough. Then I used the fret one oil and it was great. Who knew?? I really miss chatting with you in your shop Phil, but at least I still get to watch your interwebs diatribes. God bless you for all you do. So much appreciated
Thanks, I was wondering if you could do this with just the sandpaper
I tried that on my guitar. It worked great but it was so fast that I almost took off too much. Now I know.
Great idea! Those sanding blocks are sold at Dollar Trees as well.
This is what I do. Not only does it take the edge of the neck, it also rounds off the fret ends. I bought a very cheap Squier bass with fret ends I would characterize as bleeders. The foam blocked quickly rounded off even those bass frets.
i use the "james tyler" technique on my guitars and i love hows feel some sort of scalloped edge
I might do this to my practice guitars. A cheap carbon composite, not that fancy weave. My walking in the rain, practice while boiling water and frying eggs guitar, my bang into doorframes, dont need to plug in guitar. People might think they are toys but they can sit out of the case, accompany through the woods in the snow calling my dog. Cheap, comfortable, light, convenient, Enya. Just checked and there is enough meat to file on the outside corner. Testing for a bit to see how easy it is to slip off edge, down the fret crown, should have enough. These are cast into the neck. Its a carbon fiber embedded resin cast type thing. I just think of it as plastic casting. Reminds me of a tool body material and the paint them. I round a lot of edges as a finishing contractor.
I use a really fine nail file, to roll my edges, i got some old german made nail files from the 60s. They work great.
That's what I use also, I do the whole side fret wire and all.
The best thing to use is a board nail file. You file the whole corner, fret wire and all. You don't need to sand anything, and it looks better.
Use a radius motion when you're breaking the edge. Takes about 5 minutes to do one side.
I do this on every guitar I own. It makes such a difference.
I also highly suggest this~! It took me a few frets to figure out exactly how much pressure to use
Great way to start! Keeping in mind 'you can't put it back' is good advice! Years ago I came across a cheap neck with a broken truss rod that was not worth fixing. I used that to practice several things on, rolling edges was one. Any maple board with a 90d edge may work also to get the "feel". Peace --gary
If you can't find the razor blade he's using, it's because it's not a razor blade, it's a refill blade for a Stanley Knife, known in some countries as a Utility Knife. It's like the big brother of a Box Cutter.
At that price point, the Somnium guitar should have rounded edges from the factory. Excellent video and super informative.
He mentioned that is a Warmoth neck (which are not cheap either)
As always, a very nicely done video. Thanks Phil......
One of my favorite TH-cam Channels! Always, down to Earth! Thanks For Sharing 🧠🎸🎶🎶🎶🎶🎶🎶🎶
My US Stratocaster came with rounded fretboard edges . I believe it was the first year Fender started doing it. 1999 although it may have been a year or so earlier .
I use a similar technique to round the edges on my cigar box guitar neck builds.
Absolutely excellent!!! So helpful.
I have been waiting for this particular one for a couple of years.
Thank you Phil
Yeah man! Thanks for doing this video !!! I find that I like to have the high e side rolled very little, and the low E side rolled just a wee bit more. A hard edge bothers my thumb when it comes over the low E side, but a hard edge doesn't bother my fingers much at all. Maybe I'll figure out why - someday.
Been watching you for years Phil.. just wanted to send a quick thanks for all you do sir
Might need to try this on the warmoth superwide neck on my strat. Plenty of room on the edges!
Thank you! What about fret ends? Don't they need a reshaping?
The quickest and least intrusive way is to use the back of a curved ‘warmed’ tea spoon. I used this on a wudtone maple Telecaster neck with great results in less than 30 minutes 🤷♂️
I did what you said, thank you so much for the lesson! Now my guitar screams to me.... play me..... please..... 🎯
I have a Player Plus Strat and I was wondering why it's so much more comfortable to play than my other 2 guitars. The rolled fretboard makes an enormous difference.
Hi Phil nice video 📹 and workmanship the color is nice purple cream sicle
I use the side of a worn older screwdriver,, just roll over the side of neck..rolling neck towards you..its simple and works...just go slow..
rolling the edge is not relicing. Making the guitar comfortable to play is not like damaging the guitar and its finish or rusting the hardware. Relic guitars are win win for the manufacture only, as they can sell you the guitar with dings and scratches and you are happy to pay them more!!!! crazy world.
THANKS, PHIL! 👍👍
Any tips for rolling for a finished maple neck?
Great vid Phil I am doing this right now!
Where did you get that light ? I need one !!!!
Would years of playing crush the edge instead of removing it? If you do this, then play for years, are you risking it wearing too far? Seems like the screwdriver thing would be more like a natural effect.
I don’t know shyt when it comes to this. That’s why I’m asking.
TY🤘🏻
Phil doing Phil stuff!! Love it!
Thank you, Phil.
I use only the sandpaper, it's enough for my needs and less risky
Does this need the fret edges filed so they don’t stick out?
We are being spoiled this week 😊
I saw the screwdriver trick on Rhett Shull channel , and it's very fast ;))
This is cool, I was always wondering what they were doing for that. Thanks for sharing!
What is the advantage of a rolled edge fretboard?
A Most Excellent Tutorial! Huzzah!
Thank you kindly!
Love it.
? wouldn't this method make the frets "sprout" a little?
I would think a fret end beveling file with adjustable angles would take some wood and the fret ends, then fret dress, a little sand paper and wool...
I know now we're leaving DIY territory.
Another great video for us to watch and learn from thanks Phil
Thanks Phil, fantastic video.
what do you apply to the rolled surface if you are going to lacquer finish the unfinished maple neck after the rolling? just wipe the dust with alcohol and spray paint? will it even out the colour?
unfinished fingerboard is easier to me .like rosewood or any darker colour unfinished wood .. I start with scraping..then fine cut file to remove wavy cut.then ultra fine sanding sponge..steel wool if needed or anything similar available..then proceed to fret dress .on maple I just rolled with screw driver.. sometime rolled with screwdriver wasn't enough .still need to scrape and files to achieve how rounded edges I want
as a guy who doesnt like relic'ing at all, im all about the rolled edges
Great video. I won't use a screwdriver again!!
Great stuff presented here - very clearly & thoroughly explained. oNe LovE from NYC
Have you ever done in person setup lessons? Or a workshop?
kind of sad that people are masters at computers and smart phones but are lost when it comes to sandpaper and screwdrivers , how do they feed themselves
Does the Harley Benton has finish!
I sanded the neck radius on my Yamaha FG-75, using a template I got from stewmac. They use a lot of laquer on them and I took that off, plus a few thousandths of the natural wood. It came out great using a 1954 LP template. My question is; I didn't have any oil for the natural wood and I didn't want to leave it unprotected, so after a seccion of playing Iused the sweat from my shirt as the oil to seal that neck wood. Again, it worked out great and even darkened the wood a bit. I think that should be enough to protect the wood if i keep applying this natural oil, as I live in the Vegas area and it's never too humid for long. Is this crazy because it seems to be working out...
Sweat does have small amounts of fat in it which is an oil but you should not be using any natural oils to seal wood. They tend to go rancid eventually so you'll have a smelly neck if you keep doing it. Most hydrating oils for guitars are just mineral oil with lemon fragrance since it never goes rancid so if you have it, mineral oil should be fine.
@@ViviSectia ok
Great video! What's the lamp you have on your bench?
Great information!
I am thinking of refretting an acoustic which has very narrow frets. I am considering going up a size or more in fret wire.
My concern is that installing a different width fret than the factory will throw of the intonation or make the guitar play wierd. Any thoughts out there?
A number of people mentioned using a foam sanding block instead of the blade and sandpaper. I wouldn't mind hearing your thoughts on this method.
My issue is finding the right narrow neck, even though I have long fingers. My first electric guitar was a Gibson L6S Deluxe, which I played for many years. It has a very narrow neck. Everything else I try to play, I keep pressing between the strings.
fantastic tips, phil-t'anks!
3:28 classic! Audio goes out of sync whilst boasting about videos improving over the years.
another luthier way - takes moments to do. Apply pressure along fretboard edges using shaft of the screwdriver, This will compress and smooth the edge. With this method, you can roll the edge angle to taste
Ive seen it done this way as well
Great tutorial video Phil, quick question where did you buy that lamp @7:25 min of your video? I’m looking for a quality lamp with a lens in it too, thanks for the advice
Check out Lee Valley. I am happy with the one I bought there
Great video Phil
I've never once touched the edge of the fretboard while playing.
All of the guitars I bought new still have sharp edges.
So it doesn't make the fret ends stick out more?
Hey, @PhillipMcKnight ...,
Is the neck at risk of getting _too narrow,_ such that the 1st string might _unintentionally_ "fall off" the side of the neck when giving it significant finger-vibrato? ...and, is there a way to avoid that problem, like ordering a neck with a slightly wider fretboard but slotting the nut a _tiny_ bit closer to the center than the norm?
No. Even though Phil mentions that you could have this problem, no it's irrelevant. The string contact is on the steel fret not the neckwood mate
Musicnomad, among others, will actually sell special files / file blocks that you can do this with, maybe check out one of those with one of those cheap necks? :) Also personally I'm against relicing in principle, like, I want my guitar to tell it's own story as I use it. However, if you pick up a guitar and there is that click, it doesn't matter anymore because that click is the most important thing you can have with something you can express yourself with. Be you an artist and have a special brush and pen, be you a guitarist, etc.
When using the 3M Scotch Pad, do you need to tape up the pickups?
The p up's magnets attacks the steel wool, so that's why. W sand I'd only worry about a p up's screw hole if it has them, then a piece of tape.
Is that an RJ Skycaster? How'd that make it's way to you?
I was thinking the same thing. I wanna know what he thinks about the guitar.
What is that nice looking 100 dollar guitar? And, thanks I needed the rolling technique!
Beeing a long time guitarist I advise you, if it is the first time you do that, use your buddy,s guitar
great info vid
please reviewprs se ce24 satin it's their cheapest offering
How is that sandpaper "double stick" ? Its single side stick, singlenside sandpaper
If you fold the paper you end up with the two sticky sides glued together and sandpaper on both sides making it doublesided sandpaper.
Why not just use sandpaper for the whole process?
I do hate my neck, but not my guitar neck...
then using a razor would certainly remove too much material, stick to sand paper only.
@@Dm3qXY 😄sure
I got a new Gibson with rolled edges and my figures slipped off. But for some reason, my finger stopped slipping off the next time I played it.
Hey Phil lets go get a slice at New York Pizza. Or a chef salad if you prefer
It’s the back of the neck on my LP that I really hate. It’s really sticky
Yeah, this self-instruction is all fine and good, but I’d rather hire someone like you to roll the fretboard of my $3,500 Gibson LP for me.
Manufacturer just have to take off the sharp edge of the wood while dressing the fret ends. No extra procedure needed.🤷🏻 Some cheap GiO's have that.
*pinches bridge of nose* you USE the screwdriver. Scraping is too destructive. You don't crush the fretboard using a screwdriver. You wear it down with a hardened surface JUST like your fingers would over time. Spend 10 or so minutes dragging the shaft up and down the neck and you will do a better job than scraping.
Yeah...or you can do it Phil's way. Did you not listen to his beginning comments?
@@micd9531 Thanks for the 2 cents bud!
I think I'd rather just use a bit of sand paper, that razor blade makes me nervous here 😀
👍
I’m a musician, I know how to use a razor blade!
✌️🤣👍
Here's one by JJ Cale as covered by Eric Clapton.
I noticed the chickenshit didn't use any bound necks...🤣🤣🤣
I do like his advice about not trying to get it done all at once though.
I have a Gibson SG Special that has a bound neck and fret nibs. Each time I change the strings I give it a light going over with a utility blade.
So far, so good...🙏🙏🙏
you suggest this method with a Parker Nitefly? lol
Rounding edges costs almost nothing in manufacture; run both sides down a router. They don't do it on lower end, to force you to buy the premium line. That's it. Don't get me started on pickups.
Ouch!
Oh the blood !
Ahhhh!
9111
Bandaid!
Tourniquet!
Oh shite!
Read my Will.......
Non rolled fingerboards give me blisters on the insides of my fingers. I play over 40 hours a week and sharp edges just kill my little hands, way more than sharp fret edges too.
Now, show us the best way to get rid of that sticky gloss on the back of the many necks
Scotchbrite pads work very well but some people use fine steel wool or sandpaper
I use the fine maroon colored scotchbrite pads ( the tan & green ones are too aggressive ) and they work great.
what if I love my guitar neck ^^
Let me just say this: I do NOT like my edges rolled AT ALL. I don't think your hands should ever even touch the edges of the fingerboard when you are actually playing it. My take, anyway.
#6_OohAhhSoCool_🍒
Peasants who hold the neck like a shovel feel the edges. Players don't.
I guess you've dug many ditches in your life. lol
"Hey Phil, Sweetwater here our sales of bandages and replacement guitar necks are both down - how about you create a video to boost the sales of both?" "I'm on it!"
just sell the guitar and buy one you like better really a razor blade on the neck?😂😮😢
I have a neck that was perfect except it had a fingerboard sharp enough to cut a diamond in half. It was hurting the base of my fingers. It's been smoothed. I can't see abandoning an otherwise great neck for a minor flaw that's easily corrected.