The thing with wood is to sand to a finish, seal it with oil or shellac before you pencil on your design, then it will not absorb the colour when you oil and fine sand over the design.
There are links in my video to the book about the lyre in German, my Lyre making CD does have my version of the drawings I used in pencil to print off, you will need to adjust these to your lyre. My fellow lyre maker Jan van Capelle who digitised some of my lyre plans has redrawn the drawings to fit our revised idealised Trossingen lyre, he sells those plans with scaled drawings from his own website, they will save you much time. I have seen some photos of the drawings online that you could adapt yourself, email me and i will share links
Hello, first bravo for your super work. My boyfriend would like to make one but each rope represents what note? Thank you for your help. note music are MI/FA/SOL/LA/SI/DO/RE?
Karaï my standard lyre is in g diatonic This lyre has a longer scale length and i tune to E diatonic I have another video showing this trossingen tuning . Do check my website. www.michaeljking.com/how_to_play_the_lyre.htm
The first one took nearly a month, mostly in laying out the design, preparation . the second 2 weeks or so to do. Just time and patience with these. I am preparing some scaled drawings to accompany the Trossingen Plans on the Lyre making CD, The book the drawings are published in seems to be low in stock at the moment.
Not the best option. I have done simple Rune patterns on Pine and spruce but the detail is hard. I think Pyrography, burning the design on would be less structurally damaging than cutting lines into it if the top is thin (under 3mm) Drawing or painting is another option. The Norwegian Hardanger fiddle has patterns on the soft soundboard painted in (Rosemarling) Seal the top before painting, The Kolrosing technique works better on hardwoods, maple, Beech, Birch etc
@@Rottensparrow shallow cut no more than 1mm with a razor sharp craft knife or scalpel. Detail. Is hard in spruce to cut in. If you don't want to draw or paint the design on another option is sealing the surface and use a black laser photocopy of the design in reverse and use a solvent to transfer the print to the wood,. There are videos on TH-cam showing printing on wood this way. I have used all these methods over the years.
@@michaeljking Do you think oak is a good kind of wood for a soundboard? I know that most lyres soundboards were made of maple, and probably just a one or two from oak. Is it resonating well?
@@Rottensparrowit's a less responsive wood as a top with gut strings, more percussive when strummed. Better as a back or frame wood. I have built two oak topped Snape model lyres (14 years ago now.) Most Anglo Saxon lyres have maple soundboards but this model was found made of oak throughout. www.michaeljking.com/snape1.jpg maple is the best wood that was chosen historically I use maple on historical Anglo Saxon lyres, yew wood ocasionally on Viking age models, spruce on later lyres like my Kraviklyra. Recently used red Cedar on my modern hybrid lyres to get a warmer sound.
Great video instruction - and a terrific result! Congratulations, Michael!
Thanks!
True craftsmanship. Lots and lots of respect.
Fantastic! I knew this technique to be used on scrimshaw but not on wood. I will be trying it out. Thanks for the vid!
The thing with wood is to sand to a finish, seal it with oil or shellac before you pencil on your design, then it will not absorb the colour when you oil and fine sand over the design.
Michael J King Thanks for the tip. How would it work if i put a french pollish finish over this kind of work, will it draw out the collor?
Kroffe75 I would French polish before cutting and simply fine sand or buff after oiling. The oil seals the pigment.
I love that decorating technique!
Very impressive! Thanks for sharing.
Again AWESOMENESS!!!!!! thanks for sharing!!!
This is excellent Michael!
Lotta work, much appreciated. Nice job! Interesting to know what key notes are the strings going to be.
really very very beautiful!
Hi Michael! loved this work!, i'm searching for the lyre's drawings, do you know were i can find them?, send you a big hug from Argentina!
There are links in my video to the book about the lyre in German, my Lyre making CD does have my version of the drawings I used in pencil to print off, you will need to adjust these to your lyre. My fellow lyre maker Jan van Capelle who digitised some of my lyre plans has redrawn the drawings to fit our revised idealised Trossingen lyre, he sells those plans with scaled drawings from his own website, they will save you much time. I have seen some photos of the drawings online that you could adapt yourself, email me and i will share links
Sweet, so just the dusting with paint brush was enough to get the coal to fill cut ?
The oil turns the fine ground charcoal into a paint paste. I think the original used beeswax as the medium.
Wow! That was fun.
Hello, first bravo for your super work. My boyfriend would like to make one but each rope represents what note? Thank you for your help. note music are MI/FA/SOL/LA/SI/DO/RE?
Karaï my standard lyre is in g diatonic This lyre has a longer scale length and i tune to E diatonic I have another video showing this trossingen tuning . Do check my website. www.michaeljking.com/how_to_play_the_lyre.htm
What are some of the best woods to use?
The best woods are Maple, beech, birch, apple, pear, woods that have similar properties. Not open grain woods. Medium density Not too soft.
Holy CATS. That must have taken you forever. Any chance you have scale drawings of the engravings for sale?
Great work.
The first one took nearly a month, mostly in laying out the design, preparation . the second 2 weeks or so to do. Just time and patience with these. I am preparing some scaled drawings to accompany the Trossingen Plans on the Lyre making CD, The book the drawings are published in seems to be low in stock at the moment.
Michael J King Keep me posted. I'll pick up your next edition of the CD.
Thanks! Very interesting. :-)
Do you know if it affected the tone at all
sharing to #HGWeekly :)
playlist = "lutherie"
Do you think I can do that on spruce soundboard, or it will splt?
Not the best option. I have done simple Rune patterns on Pine and spruce but the detail is hard. I think Pyrography, burning the design on would be less structurally damaging than cutting lines into it if the top is thin (under 3mm) Drawing or painting is another option. The Norwegian Hardanger fiddle has patterns on the soft soundboard painted in (Rosemarling) Seal the top before painting, The Kolrosing technique works better on hardwoods, maple, Beech, Birch etc
@@michaeljking it's 5 mm actually, but I understand, that's what I though might happen
@@Rottensparrow shallow cut no more than 1mm with a razor sharp craft knife or scalpel. Detail. Is hard in spruce to cut in. If you don't want to draw or paint the design on another option is sealing the surface and use a black laser photocopy of the design in reverse and use a solvent to transfer the print to the wood,. There are videos on TH-cam showing printing on wood this way. I have used all these methods over the years.
@@michaeljking Do you think oak is a good kind of wood for a soundboard? I know that most lyres soundboards were made of maple, and probably just a one or two from oak. Is it resonating well?
@@Rottensparrowit's a less responsive wood as a top with gut strings, more percussive when strummed. Better as a back or frame wood. I have built two oak topped Snape model lyres (14 years ago now.) Most Anglo Saxon lyres have maple soundboards but this model was found made of oak throughout. www.michaeljking.com/snape1.jpg maple is the best wood that was chosen historically I use maple on historical Anglo Saxon lyres, yew wood ocasionally on Viking age models, spruce on later lyres like my Kraviklyra. Recently used red Cedar on my modern hybrid lyres to get a warmer sound.