Agreed. I got a battery clamp with a nut snapped off. Still, easier at this point to Dremel it all out, and just get a new bolt anyway. My next vehicle I think I’ll replace clamps with military-style clamps.
Here's a trick that always works for me on any rusted or stuck bolt that you can get a wrench or socket onto (actually, any bolt or nut at all): The VERY FIRST thing I do is give a tweak towards the TIGHTEN SIDE. That's right! I give it a tweak in the clockwise direction and 99% of the time you'll hear a click or the bolt will turn ever-so-slightly. This actually unlocks or releases the threads and you can then start the loosening process. I always do this FIRST on every bolt I put a wrench onto whether old or new... Another thing I recommend is using 'Never-Seize', ESPECIALLY on dissimilar metals! For example, a steel bolt into aluminum threads like a thermostat housing....all it needs is some road salt or sea salt (if you live near the coast) and there's a chemical reaction and major corrosion takes place......I could tell you a story about how I put an aluminum rim against a steel rim on my Peterbilt (because I didn't want to replace my stock wheel lugs with longer ones and put two aluminum rims back-to-back like I should have in the first place) and because I did, eventually the steel rim broke right in half......but that was in 1988 and it's a story for another day...
My grandpas a farmer, still is. The most important things I’ve learned is tighten it a little, torch around the bolt, and shock it a few times with water and heat. Final heat halfway and give it some blaster. Sure is fun dealing with fucking rust.
Changing the exhaust manifold, I stopped as soon I broke the heat shield screws and then found this video, thanks bud saved me a lot of time and headache teaching a youngster an old school trick
The only thing I'd add to this is frequent spraying with a penetrating oil. The Project Farm guy found that Liquid Wrench works best to get started. So, spray it with Liquid Wrench and let it sit for a while (day or more is best, spraying again every day or so). But you want to spray where the threads are, not the bolt head. Then start using this process of back it out some, tighten it back in some, but spray the threads again (I usually switch to PB Blaster at this point) after you tighten it each time. It'll rinse off some of that rust and put back lubricant each time. All of this is plan A for rusty bolts, but if you do it this way, you often won't need plan B.
Clear, concise explanation-- with good audio and easily-understood voice. Such a rarity, these days, when anyone can post a video. We liked and subscribed.
My secret is to always spray penetrant on all exposed nuts and bolts every time you are under the hood, under the chassis, to begin with, LONG BEFORE you ever need to do a repair. If I have the wheels off I spray caliper nuts, tie-rod ends, strut mounts, sway bar bushing fasteners... ANYTHING exposed. Reach behind the engine and spray (a LITTLE bit on) exhaust pipe to manifold nuts. I spray everything that has a thread!!
I learned a similar trick from my dad. Whenever he would grease the front end, he'd use one finger to pick up those the extra globs of grease that ooze out and would smear it all over the important bolts of the steering and suspension systems. In the long run, each bolt would look like a horrible dirty mess, but a coating of grease will absolutely prevent rust, and when the time came to replace ball joints or tie-rod ends, everything would come apart just as if it were new. Cars with grease-able suspensions are rare now, but a person can still smear grease on threaded connections that someday would otherwise be a nightmare to get apart.
Had to replace the oil pan on my 2006 Honda Pilot. This involved having to remove many rusted bolts...I was skeptical but hopeful the bolt extractor set would work. IT DID! Thanks for posting this information for the casual DIYer...the shop was overbooked for another week, and I needed to get it done asap. Thanks @Error Code Guy!
Yep they are a pain when they are rounded and rusted... My 5 minute exhaust header replacement for a motorcycle turned into hours and into impossibility when one of the bolts on the manifold stud just refused break free.... and took a chunk off my finger too when the ratchet gave way and I punched the sharp radiator edges.
Thank you for the tip to go back and forth with the bolt. I'm not mechanically inclined, and I was dealing with a tough one. PB Blaster + going back and forth with the threads did the trick. Slow going, but effective. THANK YOU!
Also, I love your video about removing rust with vinegar! I didn't really believe that it would work at first, but after I got that rusty ass ball off my hitch that I've tried to get off for the past 8 years, it absolutely blew my mind and now I've probably used vinegar to remove rust in at least a dozen different ways now, so thank! you
Regular old household white vinegar. Not only for rust, but the hard water calcium build up in your shower head and faucet mouth. It takes several hours of soaking but works like a charm. You can take the shower head off to soda, but for faucets take a zip lock and rubber band it around the faucet head. Leave overnight or as long as you can.@@patriciamoraga2917
One technique i use is once i can see the thread of the bolt i simply spray it down with lubricant tighten it back up , wait for a bit and simply screw it all the way out, " for me" this eliminates the back and forth tightening and loosening
For real stubborn bolts, I like to use Oxy- acetylene HEAT!! Mapp gas by itself would work fine for that application. Another method is to apply a 50% mixture of atf/acetone (don't laugh!! ) and the bolt will easily come out.. Great videos and keep them coming..
Nicely done video with good technique, thank you. When bolts are really stuck ,especially when aluminum is involved, applying heat to expand the material can make the difference.
Great video! A broken bolt is probably the thing I fear the most. Rust is bad, but until you break the bolt you still have a chance to take apart whatever you're working on. Once you snap the bolt, you're in for a lot more work than what the job originally called for. Great advice on sticking to penetrant, a wire brush and your brains!
Ya Ive never seen a mechanic in the rust belt or Canada waste time trying to save a bolt like that. tThey just heat them up like you said. But I totally agree for the average guy trying to work on the car this is great to know. Found myself under the rav4 the other day trying to fix some plating that was loose. 3 out of 4 bolts were so rusted out the plate itself rusted around the bolts. I had to extract every bolt before trying to reset them using big ass washers to hold the plate. It worked. Ended up breaking a bolt because of that rust friction, I wish I had tough myself that before, I mean I naturally found out I had to go back and forth but I ran out of patience and tried to force it, dry lol , had to f around with it for half an hour and make some kind of improvised big bolt+nut to get it to hold inside was was left of the undercarriage metal plate. But yea next time im just gonna get a propane torch and clean em up with expansion/cont. before even touching them... Or hell literally just drill and re-tap with a new set of bolts. would have taken me 5 mins flat to do each bolt...
Ooft. Im taking the brake line off of a wheel strut and i wish i could torch it. The strut is also completely rusted and the spring is pushing the little dish thing in my way. It’s almost impossible to get a wrench or anything. No movement nada.
I repeatedly spray with PB Blaster. A last resort on a rounded off bolt requires sacrificing a socket. I find a socket that fits snugly to the bolt head; may even require tapping it with a hammer. Inside the socket is a liberal amount of JB Weld. Leave the socket on the bolt overnight and SLOWLY use a breaker bar to remove once the epoxy is fully set.
Muriatic acid cleans off rust. It is a strong acid. You can dab a cotton ball in the acid and carefully just wet the bolt and area around, you can place something to protect the floor from spills. Wrap the cotton ball around the bolt, cover the cotton ball with a piece of plastic and a rubberband. Leave on the area for hours or overnight. Have water and baking soda when you check on it. It will be unbelievably clean. With gloves, sprinkle the area with baking soda to neutralize the acid. Once the acid is neutralized (5 minutes) Rinse off with water and wire brush. Dry with paper towel and spray pb blaster. The pb blaster will work better.
This is my 100 class I won’t give up Sometimes my throat feels like the bolt stuck in my steering hose connector 😂😂😂 Im laughing now but wait until I start going at it again THANK YOU !!!! YOU SPECIFY SO NEAT You are so connected to your work …I need to understand it and feel it too ❤
after many years of working on rusty bolts , by far I fing the best tool is a stick welder using 7018 rod , it heats it it sucks the rust and it always worked for me ,. Most people try to weld a nut , but I find just gradually a good bead on the bolt is all you need ,Also you need to keep at it till it get red hot.
In my many years of breaking bolt..😂 I’ve learned that often a bolt will tighten a little before it will ever loosen after that.. saturate and work it back and forth like you’ve displayed in your video
Thank you so much for posting this! I never new about this but will never forget how effective it is! Takes "long" to go back/forth/back/forth. But you are correct, WAY waster than drilling and extracting a broken stud!
I can only confirm that this technique is working an it’s sort of that goo’old man’s tricks. I’m using it for 10+ years from being a teenager and working for couple of years at my neighbors workshop till being a grown up person in IT field who’s doing car maintenance on his own just for the habit and well spent time. This really works. Take your time, squeeze by squeeze, hit it with brass or soft hammer as often as you can, penetrating oil/fluid, back and forth. My personal rule is: it takes much more time and effort to drill that THAN to gently apply force, spray with pen-spray, have a glass of beer, spin it back and go again. And folks, one last thing. If you have a week or so like car is not used or used occasionally - just spray these rusty nuts or bolts daily. That will really help you and penetrate the rust. One week of spraying I think helps like 30%. Sometimes 50% I can say when I see threads are wet undoing the nut.
Makes total sense to move back an fourth to break it free I was ways told take your time do it right the first time why ruin it by rushing threw well explained
Love the video, Your 100% Wright! I'm so glad I was taught this technique long time ago, because I've saved myself a lot of headaches, when I could have made it a lot worse. It Works, especially taking out spark plugs from an aluminum head!
Extractor set works really well, but one thing I like to do is the day before im hitting it multiple times with PB blaster every hr or so, I do that 5x if I need to, them come out the next morning and have a go with a regular rachet, if not the extractor set
Wish I’d seen this earlier. Snapped a caliper bracket bolt while trying to replace a wheel stud, I kinda gave up as I’m not much of a car work guy and I don’t have much for tools other than a ratchet set. I ended up spending 350$ at a repair shop to get it fixed. Not gonna lie I got robbed.
some of the things i used that worked are: 1. put a socket on the bolt and hit it really good with a hammer or rubber mallet a few times, use penetrating fluid and then try break it free before i strip it 2. use a pair of pliers to grab onto that bolt and slowly turn it with penetrating fluid, works on most screws bolts and nuts, depending on the conditions 3. use a breaker bar and penetrating fluid 4. use a impact gun, the ones which operate with air have more torque. 5. your very last option should be destruction, drill the bolt etc. hope this helped for some of you folks!
Thanks! My rusty bolt wasn't moving and I ended up getting a long hollow metal bar from my dad and putting it over the end of the ratchet which made me able to move the bolt. And after moving it like 10 degrees I was able to do by hand and back the bolt in and out like the video.
I have a finishing mower I'm able to get two out of three bolts out that hold the blades but unable to get that third one out, how can I get this out? Your thoughts?
I was working to get a corroded striped bolt off of my battery terminal. After watching your video, I ran out and purchased some of these extractors. I got the bolt of in 20 seconds. THANK YOU!
@@kman-mi7su yes mate! I didn't learn many life skills until I left school. I think it has gone backwards dramatically. When teachers were strict but a lot of them had passion by the looks of the past.
I have a diving board the carriage bolt on the top and the nut on the bottom rusted together. The whole thing spins with this kind of extractor. How would you remove it?
@@cwbuilds9215 I'm surprised I didn't see anybody suggest the method of tightening it- to break it. As an old retired electrician I know this works very good anywhere you have steel threads and rust. The part on penetrating oils was great, But you always have to apply your penetrant and let it work for five minutes or so, you tap it with a hammer or block of wood or something. And then you try to tighten it to break it loose. thank you
DO NOT DO THIS WITH ALUMINUM. Moving a "stuck" steel bolt back and forth inside an aluminum case, WILL strip the threads in the aluminum case. I know this from experience.
Any suggestions on how to remove the transfer case drive line castle nut. I bent a bar already. Used 2 feet breaker bar with jack turn it counter clockwise for 90 degrees but no movement. Oiled it with 3 types of oil
Hello , what is the most reliable bolt kind ? Hex , phillips or the one like on this video.I have claasic car and I will renew all bolts I can.Which one I should prefer ?
Penetrating oil and a heat gun. If you have time, you can just use penetrating oil once a day for 2 to 3 days. I did that with a broken rear window wiper and didn't want to use to much force and break the wiper motor assembly. I was unsure if the heat gun used at to high of a temp., might adversely affect the internals of wiper motor (they might be plastic). I did the steps above and the bolt came off with very little force.
Dont forget to spray Liquid wrench or Free All on the bolt before it is loose while tapping the head of the bolt a few times to get the penetrating oil under the cap of the bolt where there is considerable rust friction. Once the bolt is loose, start spraying Penetrating oil on the threads
You described me to the t. Lesson learned ! Now I get to learn how to extract a rusty frozen screw post that’s flush, if it’s even possible. I did drill a 1/6 hole clean through the stuck 3/8” flush screw post. What now😬
I do the same thing and spray some penetrating fluid. Loosen bolt until gets tough spray some fluid on bolt and tighten. I repeat that a few times until the bolt comes out.
What abt getting a stuck washer thingy to move off the bolt? The bolt connected to my negative battery terminal is fine, but the stupid washer (I think) is stuck to the bolt and I can’t loosen or tighten the bolt bc of this
Is there a way to prevent the bolt from rusting in the future? How do we find an identical bolt to replace the original rusty bolt, and is replacing the old bolt necessary?
Also used these sockets myself irwins , great tool I like to tap them on with a copper hammer if enough room not to hard but always a good grip after it
I know it seems illogical, but it works. Sometimes, even before you can START turning it to come out, you might want to try "tightening". The objective is to get a little room on the threads, and to work it back and forth a bit at a time. It's almost like rocking a car back and forth to get it out of a snow pile.
Just this weekend had the same problem none of my ways worked my buddy had told me to use this method but it was to late the bolt was already rounded and we used that tool to lock on rounded bolts but still can't move it so I put everything back together. Now wondering a solution 🤔. I even used a torch and that didn't work
Thank you for this video. I was removing rear differential bolts, I thought I was going to have to cut them all and hopefully get vise grips on what was left after the cover was removed. I went out and bought these extractors, they took out 12 of the 14 bolts no problem, the other two I just mushroomed the head of the bolt a couple times and then they came out also. This save me a bunch of time.
tryna get a crooked one out of my tag .. happened when switchin vehicles a few yrs ago and I cant get it out for nothin.. only tool i have are pliers.. had needle nose, but cant seem to find em in my car 🤦🏾♀️ bolts were a bit rusted so i used some wd40 but still not budging.
I had a 19mm nut connecting to a stub that was connecting my header cat to my downpipe, i used pb blaster, tapped it with a hammer (or something heavy and metal would work), and used a breaker bar to pull it off, tapped it as i went whenever it started turning.
Hold on i got a ? Lets say u got that socket to grab and u u break the bolt loose wouldnt u lose the grip u vot on the bolt by turning it the other way(tightening)? So when u go back n turn it to loosen it may not have its bite on the bolt n e more
Same techneack will work on the Ford stuck spark plugs use oven cleaner first and let sit over night small turn spray aero krill and let sit and back and forth for awhile they come out take your time
man i wish i knew this 30 mins ago lol
I wish you had searched this 30 minutes ago (at that time)
Agreed. I got a battery clamp with a nut snapped off. Still, easier at this point to Dremel it all out, and just get a new bolt anyway. My next vehicle I think I’ll replace clamps with military-style clamps.
Same 😂
F
This video and a beer does the trick
Here's a trick that always works for me on any rusted or stuck bolt that you can get a wrench or socket onto (actually, any bolt or nut at all):
The VERY FIRST thing I do is give a tweak towards the TIGHTEN SIDE. That's right! I give it a tweak in the clockwise direction and 99% of the time you'll hear a click or the bolt will turn ever-so-slightly. This actually unlocks or releases the threads and you can then start the loosening process. I always do this FIRST on every bolt I put a wrench onto whether old or new...
Another thing I recommend is using 'Never-Seize', ESPECIALLY on dissimilar metals! For example, a steel bolt into aluminum threads like a thermostat housing....all it needs is some road salt or sea salt (if you live near the coast) and there's a chemical reaction and major corrosion takes place......I could tell you a story about how I put an aluminum rim against a steel rim on my Peterbilt (because I didn't want to replace my stock wheel lugs with longer ones and put two aluminum rims back-to-back like I should have in the first place) and because I did, eventually the steel rim broke right in half......but that was in 1988 and it's a story for another day...
My grandpas a farmer, still is.
The most important things I’ve learned is tighten it a little, torch around the bolt, and shock it a few times with water and heat. Final heat halfway and give it some blaster.
Sure is fun dealing with fucking rust.
would love to hear that story man lol... if only youtube had the message feature it used to would love to talk to you!
Well how about you do a video on it Mr know it all.....
Do you wet the salt ??
I am 62 years old and still learning! Awesome video! Great technique everyone should know. Thanks!
Changing the exhaust manifold, I stopped as soon I broke the heat shield screws and then found this video, thanks bud saved me a lot of time and headache teaching a youngster an old school trick
The only thing I'd add to this is frequent spraying with a penetrating oil. The Project Farm guy found that Liquid Wrench works best to get started. So, spray it with Liquid Wrench and let it sit for a while (day or more is best, spraying again every day or so). But you want to spray where the threads are, not the bolt head. Then start using this process of back it out some, tighten it back in some, but spray the threads again (I usually switch to PB Blaster at this point) after you tighten it each time. It'll rinse off some of that rust and put back lubricant each time. All of this is plan A for rusty bolts, but if you do it this way, you often won't need plan B.
Clear, concise explanation-- with good audio and easily-understood voice. Such a rarity, these days, when anyone can post a video. We liked and subscribed.
My secret is to always spray penetrant on all exposed nuts and bolts every time you are under the hood, under the chassis, to begin with, LONG BEFORE you ever need to do a repair. If I have the wheels off I spray caliper nuts, tie-rod ends, strut mounts, sway bar bushing fasteners... ANYTHING exposed. Reach behind the engine and spray (a LITTLE bit on) exhaust pipe to manifold nuts. I spray everything that has a thread!!
Smart idea
I learned a similar trick from my dad. Whenever he would grease the front end, he'd use one finger to pick up those the extra globs of grease that ooze out and would smear it all over the important bolts of the steering and suspension systems. In the long run, each bolt would look like a horrible dirty mess, but a coating of grease will absolutely prevent rust, and when the time came to replace ball joints or tie-rod ends, everything would come apart just as if it were new. Cars with grease-able suspensions are rare now, but a person can still smear grease on threaded connections that someday would otherwise be a nightmare to get apart.
You do know that sh!t will evaporate off in like a day don’t you?
I used wd40 specialist silicone lubricant, and got out the rusted nuts..is there any other recommendations?
great or a grease spray lubricant can be a solution too
Had to replace the oil pan on my 2006 Honda Pilot. This involved having to remove many rusted bolts...I was skeptical but hopeful the bolt extractor set would work. IT DID! Thanks for posting this information for the casual DIYer...the shop was overbooked for another week, and I needed to get it done asap. Thanks @Error Code Guy!
Thank you. I ruined lots of bolts taking apart what must be the rustiest truck in the world. After watching this I saved much frustration.
One video and in less than 4 minutes, people have the power to bypass all the hard lessons some of us have learned.
Yep they are a pain when they are rounded and rusted...
My 5 minute exhaust header replacement for a motorcycle turned into hours and into impossibility when one of the bolts on the manifold stud just refused break free.... and took a chunk off my finger too when the ratchet gave way and I punched the sharp radiator edges.
Same I lost part of a fingernail changing a brake
Thank you for the tip to go back and forth with the bolt. I'm not mechanically inclined, and I was dealing with a tough one. PB Blaster + going back and forth with the threads did the trick. Slow going, but effective. THANK YOU!
Also, I love your video about removing rust with vinegar! I didn't really believe that it would work at first, but after I got that rusty ass ball off my hitch that I've tried to get off for the past 8 years, it absolutely blew my mind and now I've probably used vinegar to remove rust in at least a dozen different ways now, so thank! you
Trying this now with my differential bolts lol
Oh thank you ….I didn’t know …I’m going to go buy industrial vinegar
I won’t give up on my van 😢😢😢😢😢
Regular old household white vinegar. Not only for rust, but the hard water calcium build up in your shower head and faucet mouth. It takes several hours of soaking but works like a charm. You can take the shower head off to soda, but for faucets take a zip lock and rubber band it around the faucet head. Leave overnight or as long as you can.@@patriciamoraga2917
vinegar, is acidic, and eats the rust , same as coke
One technique i use is once i can see the thread of the bolt i simply spray it down with lubricant tighten it back up , wait for a bit and simply screw it all the way out, " for me" this eliminates the back and forth tightening and loosening
For real stubborn bolts, I like to use Oxy- acetylene HEAT!! Mapp gas by itself would work fine for that application. Another method is to apply a 50% mixture of atf/acetone (don't laugh!! ) and the bolt will easily come out.. Great videos and keep them coming..
Nicely done video with good technique, thank you. When bolts are really stuck ,especially when aluminum is involved, applying heat to expand the material can make the difference.
Great video! A broken bolt is probably the thing I fear the most. Rust is bad, but until you break the bolt you still have a chance to take apart whatever you're working on. Once you snap the bolt, you're in for a lot more work than what the job originally called for. Great advice on sticking to penetrant, a wire brush and your brains!
Good tips! Broke 3 bolts today...tomorrow I ll try removing the other 3 with your tips.
Heat it red dump water on it 3 4 times the heat expansion contraction gets the rust out and separates the threads. Jon fron buffalo ny
Ya Ive never seen a mechanic in the rust belt or Canada waste time trying to save a bolt like that. tThey just heat them up like you said. But I totally agree for the average guy trying to work on the car this is great to know. Found myself under the rav4 the other day trying to fix some plating that was loose. 3 out of 4 bolts were so rusted out the plate itself rusted around the bolts. I had to extract every bolt before trying to reset them using big ass washers to hold the plate. It worked. Ended up breaking a bolt because of that rust friction, I wish I had tough myself that before, I mean I naturally found out I had to go back and forth but I ran out of patience and tried to force it, dry lol , had to f around with it for half an hour and make some kind of improvised big bolt+nut to get it to hold inside was was left of the undercarriage metal plate. But yea next time im just gonna get a propane torch and clean em up with expansion/cont. before even touching them... Or hell literally just drill and re-tap with a new set of bolts. would have taken me 5 mins flat to do each bolt...
Nice tip, thanks guys
Flick from Afghanistan
Ooft. Im taking the brake line off of a wheel strut and i wish i could torch it. The strut is also completely rusted and the spring is pushing the little dish thing in my way. It’s almost impossible to get a wrench or anything. No movement nada.
I repeatedly spray with PB Blaster. A last resort on a rounded off bolt requires sacrificing a socket. I find a socket that fits snugly to the bolt head; may even require tapping it with a hammer. Inside the socket is a liberal amount of JB Weld. Leave the socket on the bolt overnight and SLOWLY use a breaker bar to remove once the epoxy is fully set.
This is the best advice that i have seen yet .
@@jackierobertson1528 yeh very good advice
Muriatic acid cleans off rust. It is a strong acid. You can dab a cotton ball in the acid and carefully just wet the bolt and area around, you can place something to protect the floor from spills. Wrap the cotton ball around the bolt, cover the cotton ball with a piece of plastic and a rubberband. Leave on the area for hours or overnight. Have water and baking soda when you check on it. It will be unbelievably clean. With gloves, sprinkle the area with baking soda to neutralize the acid. Once the acid is neutralized (5 minutes) Rinse off with water and wire brush. Dry with paper towel and spray pb blaster. The pb blaster will work better.
I low key don't believe you but I wanna try this.
This is my 100 class
I won’t give up
Sometimes my throat feels like the bolt stuck in my steering hose connector 😂😂😂
Im laughing now but wait until I start going at it again
THANK YOU !!!!
YOU SPECIFY SO NEAT
You are so connected to your work …I need to understand it and feel it too ❤
after many years of working on rusty bolts , by far I fing the best tool is a stick welder using 7018 rod , it heats it it sucks the rust and it always worked for me ,.
Most people try to weld a nut , but I find just gradually a good bead on the bolt is all you need ,Also you need to keep at it till it get red hot.
In my many years of breaking bolt..😂 I’ve learned that often a bolt will tighten a little before it will ever loosen after that.. saturate and work it back and forth like you’ve displayed in your video
Heat a rusted bolt up with map gas for about 30 seconds "maybe longer" then use a 6 point socket and a breaker bar, done!
Thank you so much for posting this! I never new about this but will never forget how effective it is! Takes "long" to go back/forth/back/forth. But you are correct, WAY waster than drilling and extracting a broken stud!
I can only confirm that this technique is working an it’s sort of that goo’old man’s tricks. I’m using it for 10+ years from being a teenager and working for couple of years at my neighbors workshop till being a grown up person in IT field who’s doing car maintenance on his own just for the habit and well spent time. This really works. Take your time, squeeze by squeeze, hit it with brass or soft hammer as often as you can, penetrating oil/fluid, back and forth. My personal rule is: it takes much more time and effort to drill that THAN to gently apply force, spray with pen-spray, have a glass of beer, spin it back and go again. And folks, one last thing. If you have a week or so like car is not used or used occasionally - just spray these rusty nuts or bolts daily. That will really help you and penetrate the rust. One week of spraying I think helps like 30%. Sometimes 50% I can say when I see threads are wet undoing the nut.
really good helpo man, thanks!
Makes total sense to move back an fourth to break it free I was ways told take your time do it right the first time why ruin it by rushing threw well explained
Love the video, Your 100% Wright! I'm so glad I was taught this technique long time ago, because I've saved myself a lot of headaches, when I could have made it a lot worse. It Works, especially taking out spark plugs from an aluminum head!
Lol changing my CV joints’ axle’s bolts are jammed in, my CV joints just unscrew out easily
Extractor set works really well, but one thing I like to do is the day before im hitting it multiple times with PB blaster every hr or so, I do that 5x if I need to, them come out the next morning and have a go with a regular rachet, if not the extractor set
Sir you are doing a great service for all man kind I salute you.
I often weld a nut on top of the bolt and usually the heat of electric frees the stuck bolt.
Wish I’d seen this earlier. Snapped a caliper bracket bolt while trying to replace a wheel stud, I kinda gave up as I’m not much of a car work guy and I don’t have much for tools other than a ratchet set. I ended up spending 350$ at a repair shop to get it fixed. Not gonna lie I got robbed.
My boyfriend did this last night 😭😭
You could have bought all the needed part(s) and tools worth $350 to get the job done by yourself.
@@yfriendspc indeed and likely would've never used the tools again or had them stolen or lost
@Jim_n_the_wilds reselling option is always there to recoup money. The best part is gaining the needed experience, which is priceless.
some of the things i used that worked are: 1. put a socket on the bolt and hit it really good with a hammer or rubber mallet a few times, use penetrating fluid and then try break it free before i strip it 2. use a pair of pliers to grab onto that bolt and slowly turn it with penetrating fluid, works on most screws bolts and nuts, depending on the conditions 3. use a breaker bar and penetrating fluid 4. use a impact gun, the ones which operate with air have more torque. 5. your very last option should be destruction, drill the bolt etc.
hope this helped for some of you folks!
How many of you are actually watching whole video for the way he's talking instead of what heck he is doing
Thanks! My rusty bolt wasn't moving and I ended up getting a long hollow metal bar from my dad and putting it over the end of the ratchet which made me able to move the bolt. And after moving it like 10 degrees I was able to do by hand and back the bolt in and out like the video.
You should always pull towards you at 90 degrees. If you push you run the risks of smashing your knuckles when it goes free or snaps.
Good point!
Why the 12 point socket first?
Nice to know..Thank u for taking your time and showing this.
I have a finishing mower I'm able to get two out of three bolts out that hold the blades but unable to get that third one out, how can I get this out? Your thoughts?
Mix up a small batch of 50/50 ATF/ACETONE BEST rust release agent period. Been doing this for years and has never failed me.
I hope this is just the info I need. I’m trying to install a hitch receiver with the already existing bolts
I was working to get a corroded striped bolt off of my battery terminal. After watching your video, I ran out and purchased some of these extractors. I got the bolt of in 20 seconds. THANK YOU!
removing rusty bolt is an art.😃
Great Technique!!! Been there broke that :)
Just remember every tool has a hammer side
I've used that technique for years now. I was taught that 30 plus years ago by my high school shop teacher.
It's great to hear people learning life skills from a teacher! I didn't learn much at school.. 👍
@@jacobfirst1214 Yeah, but keep in mind it was 30+ years ago. These kids today? Well, I wonder what percentage do.
@@kman-mi7su yes mate! I didn't learn many life skills until I left school.
I think it has gone backwards dramatically. When teachers were strict but a lot of them had passion by the looks of the past.
@@jacobfirst1214 yeh times have changed man... kids today don't even know how to turn on a gas stove, its too much...
@@kman-mi7su 1% man lol
I never thought of this being the reason why the bolts won’t spin, thank you!
I have a diving board the carriage bolt on the top and the nut on the bottom rusted together. The whole thing spins with this kind of extractor. How would you remove it?
I tried cutting a slot in the top of the carriage bolt to hold it with a flat head, no luck
@@cwbuilds9215 I'm surprised I didn't see anybody suggest the method of tightening it- to break it. As an old retired electrician I know this works very good anywhere you have steel threads and rust. The part on penetrating oils was great, But you always have to apply your penetrant and let it work for five minutes or so, you tap it with a hammer or block of wood or something. And then you try to tighten it to break it loose. thank you
I would use a nut splitter.
1:11 that Umf
DO NOT DO THIS WITH ALUMINUM. Moving a "stuck" steel bolt back and forth inside an aluminum case, WILL strip the threads in the aluminum case. I know this from experience.
Magnificent video!
Should be required viewing for all apprentices.
I sure would like to drink a beer with you!
Any suggestions on how to remove the transfer case drive line castle nut. I bent a bar already. Used 2 feet breaker bar with jack turn it counter clockwise for 90 degrees but no movement. Oiled it with 3 types of oil
Hello , what is the most reliable bolt kind ? Hex , phillips or the one like on this video.I have claasic car and I will renew all bolts I can.Which one I should prefer ?
Halo, is it true that we need not change the side Oli gear? People said that of we change the side gear oil is gonna cause noise
Okay, but what about when the bolt snaps before it ever starts to turn at all?
well then you’re fucked
@@dylanjohnson2327 XD
@@dylanjohnson2327 :/
Penetrating oil and a heat gun. If you have time, you can just use penetrating oil once a day for 2 to 3 days. I did that with a broken rear window wiper and didn't want to use to much force and break the wiper motor assembly. I was unsure if the heat gun used at to high of a temp., might adversely affect the internals of wiper motor (they might be plastic). I did the steps above and the bolt came off with very little force.
Thank you for explaining in detail most channels don't do thst
I don’t have any of that I’m not in my home town so I don’t got any of my tools any other ways I could do it ?
I have a pair of seized nuts on my four wheeler’s wheels any tips?
Thanks for this video.
Dont forget to spray Liquid wrench or Free All on the bolt before it is loose while tapping the head of the bolt a few times to get the penetrating oil under the cap of the bolt where there is considerable rust friction. Once the bolt is loose, start spraying Penetrating oil on the threads
I have rounded several bolts when it tightens back up really good knowledge there thanks for sharing 😀
18v 3/8” impact makes the going back and forth much faster
impact driver or impact wrench?
I like to put some oil or HCl acid drops that loosens the rust deposits !!
Great video!. Do you happen to have a product link to the extractors you use?
You sir have absolutely earned a sub, can never stop learning no matter how long you do stuff for.
would've been nice to know this before i snapped 3 rear shock bracket bolts. can even put shocks on my vehicle now.
Did the same shit
@@Luke-kg3ke did that on an alternator
What about in tight spots were the rachet doesn’t fit?
use a ratchet extension theyre pretty cheap and extremely helpful for those hard to reach spots
Awesome and informative video. Any additional tips for removing body mount boltson an 03 Dakota? Thank you
I cant fit the extractor between the heat shield of the manifold. Suggestions? Do thinwall extractor exist?
You described me to the t. Lesson learned ! Now I get to learn how to extract a rusty frozen screw post that’s flush, if it’s even possible. I did drill a 1/6 hole clean through the stuck 3/8” flush screw post. What now😬
A classic real life example of Lao Tzu's teachings.
If you want to open, let it close first.
Move ahead by returning.
Let them win before conquering.
I do the same thing and spray some penetrating fluid. Loosen bolt until gets tough spray some fluid on bolt and tighten. I repeat that a few times until the bolt comes out.
You’re f sick dude!! 🤟 still useful videos years later
What abt getting a stuck washer thingy to move off the bolt? The bolt connected to my negative battery terminal is fine, but the stupid washer (I think) is stuck to the bolt and I can’t loosen or tighten the bolt bc of this
Is there a way to prevent the bolt from rusting in the future? How do we find an identical bolt to replace the original rusty bolt, and is replacing the old bolt necessary?
Anti seize on the bolt, lithium grease or fluid film over it
Thanks for this helpful video.
Oh believe me, I do this Everytime and I didn’t know It's a professional way. 😮
Well first of all a 6pt socket might help, why are you using a spline socket?
Thank you for posting
Also used these sockets myself irwins , great tool I like to tap them on with a copper hammer if enough room not to hard but always a good grip after it
I know it seems illogical, but it works. Sometimes, even before you can START turning it to come out, you might want to try "tightening". The objective is to get a little room on the threads, and to work it back and forth a bit at a time. It's almost like rocking a car back and forth to get it out of a snow pile.
I need to get a rusted bolt off to replace my battery terminals, wd40 doesn’t seem to be helping. Gonna give this technique a go.
So glad i watched this before taking the bolts out my exhaust from the manifold on me motorbike great video 🙏
Just this weekend had the same problem none of my ways worked my buddy had told me to use this method but it was to late the bolt was already rounded and we used that tool to lock on rounded bolts but still can't move it so I put everything back together. Now wondering a solution 🤔. I even used a torch and that didn't work
Trying to replace the CV joints on my Honda four wheeler but I can’t get the axle off because the nuts are rusted and jammed in there
How to remove oil pan bolts that have been welded on to oil pan itself please? Thanks!
Thank you for this video. I was removing rear differential bolts, I thought I was going to have to cut them all and hopefully get vise grips on what was left after the cover was removed. I went out and bought these extractors, they took out 12 of the 14 bolts no problem, the other two I just mushroomed the head of the bolt a couple times and then they came out also. This save me a bunch of time.
Do you have a link to the ones you got?
Nice video . Love your voice reminds me of Henry from Goodfellas
tryna get a crooked one out of my tag .. happened when switchin vehicles a few yrs ago and I cant get it out for nothin.. only tool i have are pliers.. had needle nose, but cant seem to find em in my car 🤦🏾♀️ bolts were a bit rusted so i used some wd40 but still not budging.
Cool I will purchase easy out 🤘
Tried the easy out first thing before coming to this video. ... didn't work. Doesn't get any purchase and just strips the bolt more.
Same I haven't found a solution
Thanks for the tip!!
Y not use a 6 point socket?
I had a 19mm nut connecting to a stub that was connecting my header cat to my downpipe, i used pb blaster, tapped it with a hammer (or something heavy and metal would work), and used a breaker bar to pull it off, tapped it as i went whenever it started turning.
Hold on i got a ? Lets say u got that socket to grab and u u break the bolt loose wouldnt u lose the grip u vot on the bolt by turning it the other way(tightening)? So when u go back n turn it to loosen it may not have its bite on the bolt n e more
Same techneack will work on the Ford stuck spark plugs use oven cleaner first and let sit over night small turn spray aero krill and let sit and back and forth for awhile they come out take your time
Thanks!! Im trying to figure out how to restore a rusty oxidized underbody on a truck that runs good
Thank you so much!