Majello make lovely " bulletproof" plastic palettes. Dont be tempted to scour the mixing surface, be patient and after a few paintings the beading will vanish like a headache. Then youll have a sturdy paintbox that will become your "go to" . No flaking enamel, no rust, no dings ect.
I scrub mine with Bar Keeper's friend or Comet type of cleaner, using a little water and my finger. It just dulls the plastic and doesn't scratch it. It also works great to clean your palette when the plastic is stained.
This is not a portable option for a studio palette but I found square porcelain plates in a charity shop. ( thrift store) And if you wanted to have your colours all in a row you could put magnets on the pans and attach them to a metal ruler. Then your pans could be easily moved in and out of smaller travelling palettes too.
this palettes work great with a lot of different mediums, i used to use them with oil paints some 20ish years ago daily and only ran into issues (not really the paint can be revived) when i went a few weeks without using it.
Great cheap palette🎨. Wish i could find a similar metal, more durable one. Been using it in the studio for a long time. Great advice about cleaning up the oil from the plastic palette!
Yeah they discontinued a few years ago, I had a couple sent from Japan- talked to the Canadian distributor 2 years ago and he said good luck finding any more
@@DanMarshallArt oh man- if you have the skill to make those beautiful field boxes you used to make you could make a paintbox blindfolded haha :) I love those 1000’s. I have one of each series still in box (250,500,1000) for collecting sake I traded for refurbishing an antique original tin. I tried to replicate the 1000 in brass once but it kept warping on me. Can’t get it to lay flat haha but a lot of brass boxes- even pro built are that way.
i have a John Pike Universal Palette. had it for 18 yrs. just checked its about $47 now. man, didn't recall it being this expensive. this Thompson palette is $12, so granted cheaper. but seems like its not made of high quality plastic as john pike. So durability might be in question. (no question on the John pike, it's made through 18 yrs, still good as always, it can make another 18 yrs. )
Must take more than overnight to dry out that much pigment? Further I think that long narrow compartment is to seal off the pigments from your mixing areas
Great demo Dan! Appreciate it. By putting that much pigment in the palette, I've always been curious if the paint is just as intense when reactivating it with water. Do you use the paint all up before adding more or do you add more on top of the dried paint? I'm a terrible stickler for wasting any paint. Thanks again for the tips!
Thanks! I usually end up adding more pigment before it's used up completely. If I know I will need to use "thicker" (body) pigment I'll put some on top of the dry regardless of how much is still in the well
@@DanMarshallArt Thanks for the reply. That's how I go about too. Have you ever tried using acrylic paint with a washy watercolor style? I've been getting into that lately. Very interesting effects. I find with the Golden acrylics, you get a bit more saturation than watercolor paint. Most interesting is the bottom layers won't change with new washes on top! Or sometime I'll start with watercolor and then finish with acrylics. Fun to experiment. Great work!
The holes are to stand your brushes up in, they just get in the way of trying to grab pigment though. The other is a thumb hole so you can hold the palette if you choose.
I don't think that the plastic palette is going to be a good replacement for your metal ones. But why don't you fix the palettes that you already have? It is not that difficult to restore them with better coating than the one that they had originally. Empty them, remove their paint coating, the rust and then repaint them. There are plenty of tutorials here on YT on how to remove old paint and rust from metal surfaces without damaging the metal and how to repaint them. Before repainting them you will definitely have to cover the surface with an antirust primer and then either spray them with enamel paint or if you have the budget you can give them to a specialized store to repaint professionally with powder coating. But you can do it yourself with some very affordable materials.
Hi Dan, that's really novel. Couple of questions; would you need to repeat this process every so often? And secondly, when will you be doing the Karate - MashallArts? Sorry, that was a terrible joke :)
I prefer porcelain too or the butcher enameled tray. However, one workaround if plastic is the only available since most affordable, is by rubbing with soft sponge Mr. Clean or similar "white out" sponge (avail in any $ stores) does work on the surface and prevents "beading". The "white out" sponge is also great for cleaning any stained (tine or plastic) palettes, any stained working surface, and "erasing" n picking up stained on your watercolor paper margins.
I bought the palette you had in your link. I followed your instructions to the letter and then some. The palette beads up very badly. Very disappointed to say the least.
Mr. Clean magic erasers work great for prepping and cleaning plastic palettes.
Majello make lovely " bulletproof" plastic palettes. Dont be tempted to scour the mixing surface, be patient and after a few paintings the beading will vanish like a headache. Then youll have a sturdy paintbox that will become your "go to" . No flaking enamel, no rust, no dings ect.
Thanks for the info.
Try Mr Clean magic sponge for enameled or plastic palettes so paint wont bead, works wonders with just some water
I scrub mine with Bar Keeper's friend or Comet type of cleaner, using a little water and my finger. It just dulls the plastic and doesn't scratch it. It also works great to clean your palette when the plastic is stained.
I used Bar Keeper's Friend on my cheap plastic palettes, and it worked great! I bet Soft Scrub would work well, too.
Thanks, Dan, for the review. And as a beginner, I had no idea about cleaning your plastic pallet. Just cleaned mine, and I can see the difference.
This is not a portable option for a studio palette but I found square porcelain plates in a charity shop. ( thrift store) And if you wanted to have your colours all in a row you could put magnets on the pans and attach them to a metal ruler. Then your pans could be easily moved in and out of smaller travelling palettes too.
That's a great idea, thank you.
I spray White Rust-Oleum exterior on my metal palettes.
this palettes work great with a lot of different mediums, i used to use them with oil paints some 20ish years ago daily and only ran into issues (not really the paint can be revived) when i went a few weeks without using it.
Nice. I'm really just starting out. Thank you for that. :)
Toothpaste works great too for priming the palette. But not the gel type - the white stuff with polishing particles.
Great cheap palette🎨. Wish i could find a similar metal, more durable one. Been using it in the studio for a long time. Great advice about cleaning up the oil from the plastic palette!
Great tip. I have a few steel Holbeins. Bummed they see so hard to find.
Yeah they discontinued a few years ago, I had a couple sent from Japan- talked to the Canadian distributor 2 years ago and he said good luck finding any more
@@DanMarshallArt Vermont art supply was the last place I was able to find them.
what a great and helpful advice for the first cleaning, thanks for that!
Great video, Dan! This is a great cost effective alternative.
Thanks Jared, we don't all have your skill!!
@@DanMarshallArt oh man- if you have the skill to make those beautiful field boxes you used to make you could make a paintbox blindfolded haha :) I love those 1000’s. I have one of each series still in box (250,500,1000) for collecting sake I traded for refurbishing an antique original tin. I tried to replicate the 1000 in brass once but it kept warping on me. Can’t get it to lay flat haha but a lot of brass boxes- even pro built are that way.
I have a stack of ramekins to mix lg areas of paint. I prefer using white plates for a pallette and using headbands to cover when wet.
New subscriber and fellow Front Range artist. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this palette.
Thanks Dan for the heads up!!!👍👍👍
i have a John Pike Universal Palette. had it for 18 yrs. just checked its about $47 now. man, didn't recall it being this expensive. this Thompson palette is $12, so granted cheaper. but seems like its not made of high quality plastic as john pike. So durability might be in question. (no question on the John pike, it's made through 18 yrs, still good as always, it can make another 18 yrs. )
Must take more than overnight to dry out that much pigment? Further I think that long narrow compartment is to seal off the pigments from your mixing areas
I was able to get that pallet for $6 and I really like it for big brushes
thanks! ordered!!! I have been looking for the metal one a long time!
I’m in Colorado Springs
The aluminum one sucks lol. I’ve been trying to just learn how to make my own palette out of brass exactly the way I want it.
Thank you very much, Dan!!! So helpful!
Great demo Dan! Appreciate it. By putting that much pigment in the palette, I've always been curious if the paint is just as intense when reactivating it with water. Do you use the paint all up before adding more or do you add more on top of the dried paint? I'm a terrible stickler for wasting any paint. Thanks again for the tips!
Thanks! I usually end up adding more pigment before it's used up completely. If I know I will need to use "thicker" (body) pigment I'll put some on top of the dry regardless of how much is still in the well
@@DanMarshallArt Thanks for the reply. That's how I go about too. Have you ever tried using acrylic paint with a washy watercolor style? I've been getting into that lately. Very interesting effects. I find with the Golden acrylics, you get a bit more saturation than watercolor paint. Most interesting is the bottom layers won't change with new washes on top! Or sometime I'll start with watercolor and then finish with acrylics. Fun to experiment. Great work!
The best plastic like palette continues to be the classic Pike Palette and they last forever.
I agree!! Saving my pennies for one right now. Found them on eBay for a great price.
Can you tell me what those holes in the clippy looking thing is like on those plastic watercolor palettes?
The holes are to stand your brushes up in, they just get in the way of trying to grab pigment though. The other is a thumb hole so you can hold the palette if you choose.
I have cleaned and cleaned on the palette you recommended and the paint still beads up. Do you have anymore recommendations for this palette?
I used a non abrasive sponge, a good grease cutting detergent and very hot water. Did this twice and was good to go
Hi, can you buy this palette in the UK?
Just out of curiosity, how many palettes do you own?
A lot haha
I put mine in the dishwasher before I use them
I don't think that the plastic palette is going to be a good replacement for your metal ones.
But why don't you fix the palettes that you already have? It is not that difficult to restore them with better coating than the one that they had originally. Empty them, remove their paint coating, the rust and then repaint them. There are plenty of tutorials here on YT on how to remove old paint and rust from metal surfaces without damaging the metal and how to repaint them.
Before repainting them you will definitely have to cover the surface with an antirust primer and then either spray them with enamel paint or if you have the budget you can give them to a specialized store to repaint professionally with powder coating. But you can do it yourself with some very affordable materials.
Hi Dan, that's really novel. Couple of questions; would you need to repeat this process every so often?
And secondly, when will you be doing the Karate - MashallArts? Sorry, that was a terrible joke :)
hahaha good one lol.... As for the cleaning process when's the initial oily coating is removed your good to go! HaaiYA!
Plastic is a terrible surface to mix watercolors on, in my opinion.
Mine too. I prefer porcelain or a metal butcher tray.
I prefer porcelain too or the butcher enameled tray. However, one workaround if plastic is the only available since most affordable, is by rubbing with soft sponge Mr. Clean or similar "white out" sponge (avail in any $ stores) does work on the surface and prevents "beading". The "white out" sponge is also great for cleaning any stained (tine or plastic) palettes, any stained working surface, and "erasing" n picking up stained on your watercolor paper margins.
I bought the palette you had in your link. I followed your instructions to the letter and then some. The palette beads up very badly. Very disappointed to say the least.
Dan, come to al Islam n success
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
*Promosm*
I HATE plastic.