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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2017
- We placed Fryd at Skattøra marina in Tromsø. The goal was to change all the through hull fitting. The old hull fittings were of brass. Since we are the third owner of the boat, we do not know how old they were. But the boat is from 1997 so they can actually be 20 years old.
The new ones is in composite. We chose True-Design. The reason is, among other things, that these are acid resistant, corrosion resistant, frost proof, withstand extreme heat and withstand very high load.
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www.syfryd.no - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Great way to accurately show a perfect, clean and rather fast job in replacing the skin fittings!
Interesting way of removing skim fittings in your case. Thanks for sharing
Thank you posting this and added subtitles. I tried your approach and it worked perfectly. Common sense and key details. Hope to see you out there.
Thank you for your feedback David! Nice that you enjoyed our little video. Hope to see you out there!
Nice tip with the wood plugs. Thanks. I'm replacing mine this winter
The exact job I have next. Great video. Thank you
Excellent video... hello from Miami USA
Thanks for that! very nice to receive such feedback. Hope the video can be useful for you.
Very nice and informative video. I bought a new - used - boat this summer and one of the things to do is of course to change sea cocks to new. I have decided to go for the composite (Tru-Design) - so, the video was very welcomed. BR Poul
Knallbra! Alt eg treng å vite! Takk 👍
Excellent job. Thank you
Fin info
Bravo!!!! Well done!
Very good
I like the plastic fittings. Better than brass?
Very useful. Just one question, when installing the ball valve do you tighten it Till the end of the thread or do you stop at the position you want it to be? Thanks
Thank you for the feedback. I tightened the ball valve until it was in the correct position. As far in as possible. You can use Loctite or Tec-7 on the threads. We did not experience any leaks when using Loctite.
If you have to bottom it out you’ll never predict where the valve handle will end up.
I saw that you also replaced the valves in the engine compartment. Are the valves fireproof? They look great!
According to the manufacturer it should be suitable for all marine conditions from -40°C to +110°C
What make were the skin fittings and ball valves please? Useful video
We chose True-Design. The reason is, among other things, that these are acid resistant, corrosion resistant, frost proof, manage extreme heat and manage very high load.
Hei, flott video! Takk! Skal gjøre det samme på min båt snart. Brukte du gummipakningen som fulgte med true design gjennomføringene?
Da vi monterte dette var det ikke med noen gummipakninger, kun nylonskiver. Så vi brukte kun Tec-7 som «pakning» fra både utsiden og innsiden. Så la vi nylonskiven og mutteren på .
Ok, takk for svar
A great video and well explained. I would give it 10 likes if I could ;-)
I love steel boats 😏
Har tenkt å gjøre akkurat denne operasjonen på min også, men blir ikke helt klok på disse "selgerene" på diverse båtbutikker. Noen sier tec7. Noen sier Sika. Noen sier for all del bruk epoxy med filler. Har du noen erfaringer med hvordan du gikk fram her?
Jeg har noen gamle messing skrogventiler som jeg ikke får stengt nå.
Bruker man tykna epoxy blir det jo et veldig bra heft til både kompositten og laminatet. Men da blir det vel så å si umulig å få det av igjen?
Hei Karl, vi brukte kun Tec7 rundt selve gjennomføringene. Har bare gode erfaringer med Tec7. Men har også sett at mange bruker epoxy, og det blir jo helt hardt, som båtskroget.
Tec7en fungerer som en slags pakning, så når det har tørket rundt et døgn, kan du etterstramme mutteren og det hele vil fungere som en O-ring. Vi har ingen lekasjer med Tec7. Det er jo også enklere hvis du ønsker å gjøre endringer i ettertid. (Vil tro at å fjerne noe som er limt med epoxy er ganske mye arbeid.)
Men tenker du at det skal være permanent og du er sikker på plassering, vinkel osv er jo epoxy sterkere.
Ulf
@@SYFryd Hei, flott video. Ett spørsmål: du lot TEC-7'n stå ett døgn før du strammet mutter, men uklart om du hadde TEC- på muttersiden også?
@@strikkhopping Takk for det Petter. Hadde tec-7 på begge sider. Pass på at det ikke kommer luftbobler i Tec-7en. Det gir mulighet for lekkasje.
What number of locitite did u use? there are so many different ones
Hello again Ferry! Now I have checked on what is the correct seal. The one I used was Loctite 5331.
Big boats with many holes in the hull = scary. I have two thru hulls. If they don't fail, the boat won't sink.
What sealant did you use?
Hi! I used Tec-7 as a seal between hulls and valves.
Why didn't you use seacocks on all of the replacements? Most were just ball valves. Seacocks have flanges that are attached to the hull and are much stronger. As long a you are doing all of that work, why not do it the correct way?
glaxo welcome
I changed all the seacocks on the boat. I just haven't filmed them all. Just some to show how it was done.
I am unfamiliar with the phrase “skin fitting” please explain.
@@derjaeger3321 Another term for “Through Hull Fitting”
@@SYFryd Ok that is what I thought but wanted to be sure. Than you for the info.
You tighten the nuts the day after? Why not that day and have the sickaflex just hold it together and fill gaps
Hello. Thank you for your interest in this. The reason we waited a day to tighten it was that we wanted to create a gasket, a kind of o-ring. That way we make sure that there would be no leakage. We thought that an O-ring might work better than just gluing it together. The nylon disc, that comes with the valves, is very slippery and then the glue may not stick so well.
@@SYFryd I don't know but I think this goes against your goal. Because you.remove the seal.
@@thenarrator1984 We used a lot of Tec-7, so it is sealed on the outside, inside the hull and on the back of the nylon disc. We have not had any leaks.
@@SYFryd ok. So using sickaflex you should tighten the first day
@@thenarrator1984 Tighten by hand first day. The next day, use tools to tighten it further.
NO BACKING BLOCKS? WTF?
Hey Dan Pease. Of course there are backing blocks. This comes with the True Design parts and is mounted. These are the same color as the hull and are not so easy to see when finished with Tec-7. I have not filmed this.