The idle surge happens also on the ZF6HP unfortunately when you turn the wheel for example or it's already turned :( So good that for the DCT it fixes it
Dang that's gotta be so annoying. I wonder if there was a service bulletin for the 6HP cars as well. SB 12-15-14 is only for DCT cars. Sounds like the same software issue though.
@@JasonJoyrides it is but you get used to it. In my research I haven't found any SB's for 6HP with this issue. It's more like a quirk of the 6HP with hydraulic steering
I’ve had the same surging issues and creeping if you’re not fully on the brake. Regular DCT issue. Shifts in D mode are wonky. S mode not much better. Would be cool to adjust rpms. That torque punch does concern me. It shifts hard on E30 fuel. I would love to dampen those shifts to smooth that out. Upgrades still pending need to wait on the xhp for now. I’ll just baby the DCT until I can dial it in with Xhp
@@JasonJoyrides Did this shortly after buying my E82 DCT and I was able to find lower cost gaskets and filters on rock auto and a FCP for some parts/fluid. Went with liquimoly personally for the fluid but needed to service it due to a pan leak. Was not willing to spend the extra $ and get a new pan (either metal or plastic) so the pan gasket and new filters option worked well for me. Had it tested by Blackstone and they said it was one of the cleanest samples they had tested so hopefully it will continue to last for a long time. Proper and even more stringent maintenance than recommended by BMW is key on these cars but when they're working properly they're a dream to drive IMO. But for real the fill procedure is daunting to do on jack stands lmao
@@ZachsTechReviewsutube Would quickjacks make it any better? Or you really need a lift to do it comfortably? My trans service is the next thing on the list.
@@JasonJoyridesI did mine on the quick jacks. All oem parts, pan, both filters, drain and fill plugs aswell as bmw oem fluid. It took my 2 years to tackle this job because there are so many parts to it. MOST IMPORTANTLY ISTA+. You need it as it properly allows you the all the fluid back in. Any more questions lmk.
@@syedfaraz2049 hey man thanks for the info! I actually just tackled this job a couple weeks ago as well as downloading ISTA+ and learning how to use it. My car drives 10x better now. I'll actually be releasing a video this week about using ISTA+ to get your trans shifting like new.
Hi, my car needs an engine replacement. 2011 335ix E90 AWD n55 ,,, I have a complete car engine with a gearbox, a 2011 F10 535i, an N55 engine. I noticed that the engine is almost the same, but the gearbox is a little different. What do I do to make this engine work on my car? Do I just need to install it and I do not need to do anything, or do I have to modify it? Some things to work with, thank you
This is not my area of expertise, however, I would expect the engine to drop right in a bolt up to your original transmission. I am sure someone has done it before. These N55s went in almost every BMW chassis so I’m sure they would be compatible. The rest of the drive train may be different between the two chassis though which is why I would say you probably won’t need the F10 trans and can just use your original.
Doing a quick search, it looks like your 2011 F10 N55 and 2011 E90 N55 have the same N55B30M0 engine code. So should be directly compatible. Just remove the F10 N55 from the trans, remove your blown up engine from your car, and then drop the F10 N55 right in and bolt it up. Here’s what I found on a forum post: “You will need to transfer a few things over that may or may not be mentioned above. As of the end 2/2012, the N55 switched to the Bosch Fuel Pump. Still, a N55 block is a N55 block! PARTS requiring a SWAP: Turbofold (lower mounting bracket) Wiring Harness DME Vacuum Pump HPFP Fuel Rail Valve Cover Vibration Damper Engine Brackets which bolt to the sub-frame motor mounts”
Thank you for this, but I want to install the complete engine and gearbox. Will I face major problems with this difference or will it not be difficult? F10 2011 ،، E90 I have a 6-speed automatic, F10 8-speed, can I have a big problem with this difference? I will remove almost everything related to the engine and gearbox from the F10, the engine computer and gearbox
@@Basel0Alchhabi hmmmm. I truthfully cannot give you a confident answer as I am not an expert. Most of my research has been with the 1 series DCT platform. However, I know people have done 8HP swaps into 6HP cars so it is definitely possible, but also definitely required more knowledge on the requirements for it. I doubt it is straight forward.
@JasonJoyrides hmm. I see repeated issues with 2.56 on the dct with m3 lsd swap sp wasn't sure. Seems like for cost of used m3 lsd .. plus xhp would be cheaper and better to just go with a plug and play mfactory lsd
@@Jewnbug1 I’ve been doing a lot of research on this as well man. I’ve been back and forth between getting an entire rear subframe assembly from a wrecked M3 and swapping that in or going with just upgrading bushings and whatnot back there or just doing an LSD swap designed for the 135i but not one that is the whole housing and everything. Interested to hear what you end up going with if you sort yours out before me.
@JasonJoyrides from what I've been told.. the entire rear subframe swap is not worth it at all. This from many that track theirs and state .. bushings , control arms rear and front and lsd is all you need to have that superior ride. The the subframe is negligible and not needed as the current subframe is perfectly fine.
@@Jewnbug1 that’s good news for me then. All M3 bushings and control arms are currently in my cart lol. Just saving up till I can go full send on it. So I guess at that point I’ll be really close and just need to do the LSD, which MFactory is only like $900ish right?
Hii, i love the fact that u done a video about this because i have an 335i e93 2011 N55 DCT and i have all this issues, all of them and especially when AC is on i can’t stop because the car freaks and it’s being very annoying. Can you help me and tell me what i need to buy and how to install things correctly 🙏. Thanks
Hey man! So you will want to go to xAutomotive's (www.xautomotive.com/products/xhp-enduser-combo-flash-license-map-pack?variant=42370328559840) website to purchase their xHP combo flash pack. If you don't have a wifi OBDII connector, you will need to buy one as well. If you plan on tuning your engine with MHD as well then I suggest getting the MHD connector because it works with both so you only have to buy one. They also have a list on their website of compatible OBDII connectors (rbttuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/RBTTUNING/pages/1179749/xHP+Flashtool+-+Supported+Flashing+Hardware). Hope that helps and let me know if there is anything else you need to know!
@@JasonJoyrides thank you for your time, but these is an difference between ( flash License ) And there is one with + map pack, you sure i need the map pack ? Or i can go just with the flash license
@@elhamgaripi3183 if you do not want to run one of their off the shelf tunes and just tweak the settings yourself, you can just purchase the flash license I believe
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The idle surge happens also on the ZF6HP unfortunately when you turn the wheel for example or it's already turned :( So good that for the DCT it fixes it
Dang that's gotta be so annoying. I wonder if there was a service bulletin for the 6HP cars as well. SB 12-15-14 is only for DCT cars. Sounds like the same software issue though.
@@JasonJoyrides it is but you get used to it. In my research I haven't found any SB's for 6HP with this issue. It's more like a quirk of the 6HP with hydraulic steering
I’ve had the same surging issues and creeping if you’re not fully on the brake. Regular DCT issue. Shifts in D mode are wonky. S mode not much better. Would be cool to adjust rpms. That torque punch does concern me. It shifts hard on E30 fuel. I would love to dampen those shifts to smooth that out. Upgrades still pending need to wait on the xhp for now. I’ll just baby the DCT until I can dial it in with Xhp
Wouldnt hurt to service the trans too or just replace the fluid. The “lifetime” fluids on these cars is a joke. Nothing lasts forever.
@@JasonJoyrides Did this shortly after buying my E82 DCT and I was able to find lower cost gaskets and filters on rock auto and a FCP for some parts/fluid. Went with liquimoly personally for the fluid but needed to service it due to a pan leak. Was not willing to spend the extra $ and get a new pan (either metal or plastic) so the pan gasket and new filters option worked well for me. Had it tested by Blackstone and they said it was one of the cleanest samples they had tested so hopefully it will continue to last for a long time. Proper and even more stringent maintenance than recommended by BMW is key on these cars but when they're working properly they're a dream to drive IMO. But for real the fill procedure is daunting to do on jack stands lmao
@@ZachsTechReviewsutube Would quickjacks make it any better? Or you really need a lift to do it comfortably? My trans service is the next thing on the list.
@@JasonJoyridesI did mine on the quick jacks. All oem parts, pan, both filters, drain and fill plugs aswell as bmw oem fluid. It took my 2 years to tackle this job because there are so many parts to it. MOST IMPORTANTLY ISTA+. You need it as it properly allows you the all the fluid back in. Any more questions lmk.
@@syedfaraz2049 hey man thanks for the info! I actually just tackled this job a couple weeks ago as well as downloading ISTA+ and learning how to use it. My car drives 10x better now. I'll actually be releasing a video this week about using ISTA+ to get your trans shifting like new.
Hi, my car needs an engine replacement. 2011 335ix E90 AWD n55 ,,, I have a complete car engine with a gearbox, a 2011 F10 535i, an N55 engine. I noticed that the engine is almost the same, but the gearbox is a little different. What do I do to make this engine work on my car? Do I just need to install it and I do not need to do anything, or do I have to modify it? Some things to work with, thank you
This is not my area of expertise, however, I would expect the engine to drop right in a bolt up to your original transmission. I am sure someone has done it before. These N55s went in almost every BMW chassis so I’m sure they would be compatible. The rest of the drive train may be different between the two chassis though which is why I would say you probably won’t need the F10 trans and can just use your original.
Thank you for this note, I wish you success, you are a wonderful and talented person
Doing a quick search, it looks like your 2011 F10 N55 and 2011 E90 N55 have the same N55B30M0 engine code. So should be directly compatible. Just remove the F10 N55 from the trans, remove your blown up engine from your car, and then drop the F10 N55 right in and bolt it up.
Here’s what I found on a forum post:
“You will need to transfer a few things over that may or may not be mentioned above. As of the end 2/2012, the N55 switched to the Bosch Fuel Pump. Still, a N55 block is a N55 block!
PARTS requiring a SWAP:
Turbofold (lower mounting bracket)
Wiring Harness
DME
Vacuum Pump
HPFP
Fuel Rail
Valve Cover
Vibration Damper
Engine Brackets which bolt to the sub-frame motor mounts”
Thank you for this, but I want to install the complete engine and gearbox. Will I face major problems with this difference or will it not be difficult? F10 2011 ،، E90 I have a 6-speed automatic, F10 8-speed, can I have a big problem with this difference? I will remove almost everything related to the engine and gearbox from the F10, the engine computer and gearbox
@@Basel0Alchhabi hmmmm. I truthfully cannot give you a confident answer as I am not an expert. Most of my research has been with the 1 series DCT platform. However, I know people have done 8HP swaps into 6HP cars so it is definitely possible, but also definitely required more knowledge on the requirements for it. I doubt it is straight forward.
Interesting my dude. Surprising it didn't help with our throttle lag. If you get a tune from Wedge for an upgraded turbo, I noticed it is required.
What is required? The software update or xHP?
@@JasonJoyrides not to sure. Sent you a link on insta.
would this be usable though swapping lsd on a dct since it has odd gearing. Would xhp fix the gearing hiccups say if swapping to a m3 diff
Yes you can change your final drive ratio using the Rear Axle Ratio option. I plan on doing the same thing in the future.
@JasonJoyrides hmm. I see repeated issues with 2.56 on the dct with m3 lsd swap sp wasn't sure. Seems like for cost of used m3 lsd .. plus xhp would be cheaper and better to just go with a plug and play mfactory lsd
@@Jewnbug1 I’ve been doing a lot of research on this as well man. I’ve been back and forth between getting an entire rear subframe assembly from a wrecked M3 and swapping that in or going with just upgrading bushings and whatnot back there or just doing an LSD swap designed for the 135i but not one that is the whole housing and everything. Interested to hear what you end up going with if you sort yours out before me.
@JasonJoyrides from what I've been told.. the entire rear subframe swap is not worth it at all. This from many that track theirs and state .. bushings , control arms rear and front and lsd is all you need to have that superior ride. The the subframe is negligible and not needed as the current subframe is perfectly fine.
@@Jewnbug1 that’s good news for me then. All M3 bushings and control arms are currently in my cart lol. Just saving up till I can go full send on it. So I guess at that point I’ll be really close and just need to do the LSD, which MFactory is only like $900ish right?
Hii, i love the fact that u done a video about this because i have an 335i e93 2011 N55 DCT and i have all this issues, all of them and especially when AC is on i can’t stop because the car freaks and it’s being very annoying. Can you help me and tell me what i need to buy and how to install things correctly 🙏. Thanks
Hey man! So you will want to go to xAutomotive's (www.xautomotive.com/products/xhp-enduser-combo-flash-license-map-pack?variant=42370328559840) website to purchase their xHP combo flash pack. If you don't have a wifi OBDII connector, you will need to buy one as well. If you plan on tuning your engine with MHD as well then I suggest getting the MHD connector because it works with both so you only have to buy one. They also have a list on their website of compatible OBDII connectors (rbttuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/RBTTUNING/pages/1179749/xHP+Flashtool+-+Supported+Flashing+Hardware). Hope that helps and let me know if there is anything else you need to know!
@@JasonJoyrides thank you for your time, but these is an difference between ( flash License )
And there is one with + map pack, you sure i need the map pack ? Or i can go just with the flash license
@@elhamgaripi3183 if you do not want to run one of their off the shelf tunes and just tweak the settings yourself, you can just purchase the flash license I believe
@@JasonJoyrides okay, now i understand 🙏
And obviously obd to connect with phone
@@elhamgaripi3183 yes sir. Hope it solves your issues!