The mute procedure demonstrated is key to minimize wasted time on fooling around with mutes. Remember it is only a rough tuning during the pitch raise.
I was taught to tune uprights with the tuning lever in my left hand and grands with it in my right hand. Also I find it easier to sit down when tuning either, otherwise with my height I end up with a sore back.
Yes, that piano was fresh off Craigslist. (Or Facebook Marketplace, I don't remember.) I don't know how long it had been, but it seemed like a good opportunity for a pitch raise tutorial.
@@christinenorbe8618 typically it’s unlikely that any of the 100+ strings will break before reaching their desired tune unless the whole piano is over 50c flat and the strings look old. You can still get a piano that is very flat up to tune but you would just have to spend more time getting it up there. The age of the strings are the most important factor though so if they look old, carefully raise it a tiny bit at a time.
This is excellent, thank you for sharing. Even just understanding the mute technique is a huge value for people like me who are just dipping our toes into these waters. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of tuning lever do you use?
Are you the developer of the app? It's priced like Tune Lab which I use everyday. Question, why is it that you recommend tuning the tenor and high sections first and then the bass? It's more like smoothing out the wrinkles in a bedspread working from the low bass up to the high treble.
Yes. I started as an aural tuner, so tuning the bass last is the only thing that feels natural to me. The reason I recommend it for this app is because the overpull calculations are based on tuning in this order.
@@michaelsataiwan In short, you still tune the piano twice, but you just make a rough guess as to how sharp to tune it on the first pass. For safety, I would target about 20-30 percent sharp of however flat the piano is, except for the bass strings, which you should just tune to zero. So if you're starting with a piano that is 50 cents flat on average, you would tune the piano about 25% of 50 cents sharp, or 13 cats above your standard pitch. Just click on the box where it says A=440 and type "13" into the box where it says 0 cents. There's some slightly more detailed instructions on the website called tuneyourownpiano.com For the second pass, go back and set the pitch offset back to zero (A=440 again)
A small but important question. As you strike the note you notice the pitch indicator hit an initial point and then after a second descends somewhat. Which one do you believe? My guess is after a half second or so as the initial reading is more prone to upper harmonics? Please if you can help with this.
@@adjwilley Thank you! When setting the stretch, does the pitch have to be raised to 440? I suspect I may be about 5 cents below. I have two steinways, one an L and a B in prime condition.
Good video. This person looks like he is a piano tuner. By the way he’s tuning the unisons. And his tuning hammer. I think if you’re never tuned before it would take several attempts to get close to his ability. I would tune the middle section a few times before going to the high treble. To get used to using the tuning hammer. And setting the tuning pin. I would go slow at first for a few days. Not only to learn the machine but to get used to hammer to the strings. And changing the mutes.
The mute procedure demonstrated is key to minimize wasted time on fooling around with mutes. Remember it is only a rough tuning during the pitch raise.
I was taught to tune uprights with the tuning lever in my left hand and grands with it in my right hand. Also I find it easier to sit down when tuning either, otherwise with my height I end up with a sore back.
And thank YOU for creating this content and sharing. It makes great sense, and will be useful.
Excellent demonstration! What I would really appreciate is a video of the finished article, as in the final tuning. All the best, James
Wow that piano probably hasn’t been tuned in years, but that Fujan lever really gives you a lot of control of the pins!
Yes, that piano was fresh off Craigslist. (Or Facebook Marketplace, I don't remember.) I don't know how long it had been, but it seemed like a good opportunity for a pitch raise tutorial.
It would be cool to see the full pitch raise video considering it only took you 17 minutes to do!
I also mean not sped up to 16x.
What if you don’t to raise up to A440 because of possible broken strings? How do you adjust?
@@christinenorbe8618 typically it’s unlikely that any of the 100+ strings will break before reaching their desired tune unless the whole piano is over 50c flat and the strings look old. You can still get a piano that is very flat up to tune but you would just have to spend more time getting it up there. The age of the strings are the most important factor though so if they look old, carefully raise it a tiny bit at a time.
Hi, after completion of the pitch raise would you recommend remeasuring the inharmonicity of each string again ?
Pretty sure after the pitch raise, you lock the tuning curve to start the fine tuning. No need to re-sample.
Very good, if the needle shows negative then the string must get more tense. Thank you
Excellent and I am doing a major Pitch Raise
This is excellent, thank you for sharing. Even just understanding the mute technique is a huge value for people like me who are just dipping our toes into these waters. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of tuning lever do you use?
Fujan
Would a good overshoot factor for a pitch raise be 1.25?
Are you the developer of the app? It's priced like Tune Lab which I use everyday. Question, why is it that you recommend tuning the tenor and high sections first and then the bass? It's more like smoothing out the wrinkles in a bedspread working from the low bass up to the high treble.
Yes. I started as an aural tuner, so tuning the bass last is the only thing that feels natural to me. The reason I recommend it for this app is because the overpull calculations are based on tuning in this order.
hi! which kind of mute is used here in a "double string open unison technique"?
thanks for the great app, I bought the full version yesterday!
I'm using a Papps mute that goes between the shanks of treble hammers (above the rest rail, below the hammers).
How do you perform a pitch raise if you only can afford the plus version?
@@michaelsataiwan In short, you still tune the piano twice, but you just make a rough guess as to how sharp to tune it on the first pass. For safety, I would target about 20-30 percent sharp of however flat the piano is, except for the bass strings, which you should just tune to zero. So if you're starting with a piano that is 50 cents flat on average, you would tune the piano about 25% of 50 cents sharp, or 13 cats above your standard pitch. Just click on the box where it says A=440 and type "13" into the box where it says 0 cents. There's some slightly more detailed instructions on the website called tuneyourownpiano.com
For the second pass, go back and set the pitch offset back to zero (A=440 again)
Great video. looking foward to your future video topics you promised in your previous video!
A small but important question. As you strike the note you notice the pitch indicator hit an initial point and then after a second descends somewhat. Which one do you believe? My guess is after a half second or so as the initial reading is more prone to upper harmonics? Please if you can help with this.
I tune to the strobe rings immediately after they settle somewhat from the attack. (About a half second). The important thing is being consistent.
@@adjwilley Thank you! When setting the stretch, does the pitch have to be raised to 440? I suspect I may be about 5 cents below. I have two steinways, one an L and a B in prime condition.
Works very good!
do you use the pro version?
Yes. I also have veritune and tunelab, but this is the one I use 100% for the last two years or so.
This is the app I’ll use until I’ll get tunelab
Thank you!!
Its $300 now?! Man i was just about to upgrade to Pro.. thats a heck of a jump
Well worth it compared to the other professional etds, if you ask me.
since it's a professional tool, it's justifiable since you make money with it. I'm merely a student so yeah I understand you.
Thanks
It was fun to see the 16x speed part :)
Good video. This person looks like he is a piano tuner. By the way he’s tuning the unisons. And his tuning hammer.
I think if you’re never tuned before it would take several attempts to get close to his ability.
I would tune the middle section a few times before going to the high treble. To get used to using the tuning hammer. And setting the tuning pin.
I would go slow at first for a few days. Not only to learn the machine but to get used to hammer to the strings. And changing the mutes.
9.2
D#7
£280 for this app. You have to be kidding me
No, it is a piece of professional software. Compare the price of Reyburn Cybertuner and Verituner Apps.
00:55
1x
15:20
1x
+143,70
07:48
16x
G10
06:43
16x
Get your piano over 6 whole-steps flat and show TH-cam this
WORST PIANO EVER!!!!
that violin is so fuckin small
1/64th size :-)
That doesn’t look that small compared to the other ones. Looks like 1/4 to me