I have a PVM-2130 that had a tube like that, exactly like that!!! i fixed it with a Heathkit IT-5230 CRT Tester-Rejuvenator, what i i did is jut balance/Clean the guns and that fixed it, now its good as new with great colors again.
I live in Asia and I have 3 CRTs which wont turn on. I would have loved to have you or someone like you who also have similar passion and love for these CRTs to repair them.
Steve, I recently bought a 2054QM. Got a great deal but the idiot I bought it from didn’t pack it very well and the bezel broke in one corner and is hanging off still connected by wires. The power button was missing also so I haven’t tried to turn it on. I’d love to get it repaired as 20” RGN PVMs are hard to find, at least for what I paid for it.
Thanks I have learnt so much from your videos. I'm still unsure on where all the potential energy goes though when discharging if the chassis isn't connected to earth via the power outlet.
I just have a feeling that this just works like a capacitor, when connect the wire with the metal chasis, positive and negative charged electrodes will meet and electrons dissipate qiuckly.
Wow, I didn't know anyone else knew about that. I bought that poster from an old timer at booth during the 2005 Daytona 500. He told me the story behind the poster, and I bought it from him for $20. Is there any information anywhere to confirm this story?
@@RetroTechUSA no it’s mostly a rumor but if you google it there are a ton of theories. I got mine for 20 or 25 bucks too a while back. The uncensored original one is worth decent money now
Hi, I have a 20L5 that is doing some weird warping in the middle/left side of the screen when doing the horizontal scroll test where it stretches the image then shrinks again once it reaches the far left side on the super nintendo 240p suite test. It also jitters on the vertical test. doesn't look smooth at all. The screen is also very very slightly tilted downwards on the left side. I wanted to adjust the yoke but i'm inexperienced and wondered if there are any dials in the back that could help me fix that (there seem to be no controls in the service menu to actually tilt the image) or if I have to physically move the yoke. Aside from the weird warping it's beautiful and I just love it. Do you have any advice? Could I possibly reach out to you and pick your brain about it a bit with a video and or pics? Thanks!
Hi, i have the same warping issue on my both bvm D14H5 and on the same side. I re-cap all monitors and nothing, as far as i know this is the FILM cappacitor's isues, also i try to replace horizontal linearity coils and still nothing. Note that the crt in this bvm have 8000 h then definitely is a component failure or this polypropylen cap's that i meantion before. If you knew something more on this topic so let me know becouse i am curious :)
I've one of these When I turn it on the red color is about to 60%. It needs to warm up to the red color be 100% I've replace all the capacitors on it for the B1 Board and the 3 transistors for the Neck board but I'm still getting the red color about to 60% everytime I turn it on after been turned off for few a hours Do you know what could it be?
These monitor are rarely worth restoring. Why? Because for those capacitors to fail, you need a ton of work hours (Sony used only the best e-caps), which in turn means the tube itself is worn-out. There is no magic to restore a tube. The so-called rejuvenators will never work for an extended period. You will get a few more months of a decent tube glow at best, and rarely even that.
I have a PVM-2130 that had a tube like that, exactly like that!!! i fixed it with a Heathkit IT-5230 CRT Tester-Rejuvenator, what i i did is jut balance/Clean the guns and that fixed it, now its good as new with great colors again.
I love to see dead electronic come back to working condition in general Steve. So this will be a pleasure to watch from you. 8^)
Anthony..
Thanks Anthony! Hope you are doing well.
I live in Asia and I have 3 CRTs which wont turn on. I would have loved to have you or someone like you who also have similar passion and love for these CRTs to repair them.
Steve, I recently bought a 2054QM. Got a great deal but the idiot I bought it from didn’t pack it very well and the bezel broke in one corner and is hanging off still connected by wires. The power button was missing also so I haven’t tried to turn it on. I’d love to get it repaired as 20” RGN PVMs are hard to find, at least for what I paid for it.
Thanks I have learnt so much from your videos. I'm still unsure on where all the potential energy goes though when discharging if the chassis isn't connected to earth via the power outlet.
I just have a feeling that this just works like a capacitor, when connect the wire with the metal chasis, positive and negative charged electrodes will meet and electrons dissipate qiuckly.
It is like a Capacitor. The charge just dissipates through the metal ground loop on the CRT itself
nice vid. 👍 done that stuff with five PVM 2730 already three/four years ago. recapped every single board, was a shitload of work
There are a lot of caps in these. Thanks
I noticed the infamous 1987 Winston poster in the background lol
Wow, I didn't know anyone else knew about that. I bought that poster from an old timer at booth during the 2005 Daytona 500. He told me the story behind the poster, and I bought it from him for $20. Is there any information anywhere to confirm this story?
@@RetroTechUSA no it’s mostly a rumor but if you google it there are a ton of theories. I got mine for 20 or 25 bucks too a while back. The uncensored original one is worth decent money now
Hi, I have a 20L5 that is doing some weird warping in the middle/left side of the screen when doing the horizontal scroll test where it stretches the image then shrinks again once it reaches the far left side on the super nintendo 240p suite test. It also jitters on the vertical test. doesn't look smooth at all.
The screen is also very very slightly tilted downwards on the left side. I wanted to adjust the yoke but i'm inexperienced and wondered if there are any dials in the back that could help me fix that (there seem to be no controls in the service menu to actually tilt the image) or if I have to physically move the yoke.
Aside from the weird warping it's beautiful and I just love it. Do you have any advice? Could I possibly reach out to you and pick your brain about it a bit with a video and or pics? Thanks!
Hi, i have the same warping issue on my both bvm D14H5 and on the same side. I re-cap all monitors and nothing, as far as i know this is the FILM cappacitor's isues, also i try to replace horizontal linearity coils and still nothing. Note that the crt in this bvm have 8000 h then definitely is a component failure or this polypropylen cap's that i meantion before. If you knew something more on this topic so let me know becouse i am curious :)
Try adjusting the horizontal linearity coil it should fix the horizontal warping.
I've one of these
When I turn it on the red color is about to 60%. It needs to warm up to the red color be 100%
I've replace all the capacitors on it for the B1 Board and the 3 transistors for the Neck board but I'm still getting the red color about to 60% everytime I turn it on after been turned off for few a hours
Do you know what could it be?
Hello my friend . Do you know about Sony trinitron monitor " micro fine pich " 90's medical equipment ?
Having a doner monitor is a godsend. I don't suppose you have any ikegami spares do you Steve? I'm after a flyback for a 1990r.
"Donor", not "doner". lol He mispelled it.
Hi Steve, i currently have a PVM 20N5 with the rgb components installed. would you say its worth recapping the entire crt to futureproof it?
a 20" with RGB? hell ya
Yes, that one is relatively easy to work on compared to other models. Just recap the main board and the neck board.
It took me half-a-second, to realize you mispelled "donor". lol I was like, "What is the word "doner"?", thenyou said "donor", and it clicked. lol
I guess it is kinda off topic but does anybody know a good website to stream new movies online?
@Brett Cody Try FlixZone. You can find it on google =)
@Brett Cody Try Flixzone. You can find it on google =)
These monitor are rarely worth restoring. Why? Because for those capacitors to fail, you need a ton of work hours (Sony used only the best e-caps), which in turn means the tube itself is worn-out. There is no magic to restore a tube. The so-called rejuvenators will never work for an extended period. You will get a few more months of a decent tube glow at best, and rarely even that.