Mercedes R107 electrics - dimmer & hazard switch + fan blower motor and lights
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- This is a detailed video showing how we got some of the faulty electrics in our project car to work again. The video shows the wiring for the hazard switch and also the location of the hazard light relay. There is also a section on the dimmer switch which is a very common source of electrical problems. We show how to refurbish the dimmer switch and also the cheapest place to buy a new one.
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Absolute brilliant video thanks Mike keep up the invaluable work 👍🏽
Thank you for your comment. Mike
Thank you!!! So much great information and just looked up apa and found so many things I need for my R107. Excellent tip, Cheers!
Thanks for your comment - I hope that means we have a new subscriber! Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars Yup. I recently got my R107 back in June. It has been sitting outdoors since 2013. engine was seized and fuel system was completely shot. I now have it running and at least drivable. Watching your videos for tips and inspiration. Thanks!
@@EricNormanSilviaJDM Hope it all goes well - next up I need to take mine for a longer drive and see what goes wrong...and add it to the snag list. Mike
Wow!!! Great to watch coming from a true expert. Thank you for taking your time to help everyone
Thank you for your comment although I wouldn’t describe myself as an expert. Still got plenty to do on this project. Mike
Many thanks, again. Sent you a whatsup message re bolt, which is -finally- in. Putting stuff back, center console my bridge to hold the radio also snapped so need to figure out a way to fix that, did not make the padding under the carpets “a la Mike” , just found some stuff on Amazon and glued it to the floor boards post paining them in rust protector from Eastwood. Repainted the needles in the dash, put it back in, tested the dimmer switch and yep, she no working. Did follow you instructions but could not get the dimmer switch to work even post cleaning. So Merc replacement on order. New brake master cylinder and booster are in, bleeding brakes next then engine flush. Sadly have rust on the rear window of the slc. Will have someone look at that. Thanks again and be well.
Thanks - I did see your amazing 'Heath Robinson' trick to get that bolt in - you must be quite pleased with yourself! You are really cracking on with that car. Did you see the brief glimpse of the 450SL the SL Shop are 'pimping' up at the end of the SL Shop open day video? I'm waiting for my fuel injectors to come back from Mr Injector and then it will be time to have another go at figuring out why the 280SL doesn't start. Mike
This job is definitely on my radar - thanks for the insight 👍
Thanks for your comment and good luck when you come to do yours.
Mike
Great video. It was exactly what I was looking for. My gearbox does not illuminate and thought maybe the fuse was bad. Instead, it looks like I need to replace the light bulb.
Question: do I need to remove the wood console to gain access to this wiring bulb, or can I replace the bulb by removing the rubber gasket surrounding the gearbox? 🙏
Thanks for your comment. I have only ever changed that light bulb with the wooden panel removed BUT it may be possible to get access just by removing the rubber gasket - try it and let me know how you get on. Mike
Hi Mike.Very interesting video as always. My model is a SL300 of 1986. The hazard switch of this car has just 8 pins. I´m unable to locate the scheme, and I need the colors of diferents cables and position, because there isn´t a general connector but six independents ones. Cables are originals. Excuse my bad english.😃 Thank you, Best wishes
Thank you for your comment. Does you hazard switch look the same as the one shown in the video below at 1:17:
th-cam.com/video/ltj-O00UkBc/w-d-xo.html&t
Is the problem that you have taken the cover off the plug and are unsure which leads go into which holes?
Do you still have the plug cover?
Can you tell me the color of the leads? eg 1 one brown...one red/black etc etc
Mike
Thank you Mike. Someone connected each pin, separately without general conector. The system worked, but, several cables go out of his position, because vibrations and rigidity of wires. Now, I have doubts about some connections. red, White+blue, black, white+black (Left), green+black, white+black, brown, Green+black (Right). Keep in touch, thanks again
Yes, It´s the same switch with 8 pines.Thank you
very informative video Mike, thank you very much
Great video. Question. Just at the end you say where to get the price on parts from Üro but I can´t hear the name of the company. Could you write it here?
Hi
The URO parts catalogue is available online at the link below:
apaindustries.com/catalog
URO only supply wholesalers and garages but you can get any of their parts online at rockauto.com
Mike
Thanks for the video, very helpful. Just wanted to mention that your revolution counter belongs to a 450, the 280 (M110) rev counter has the red line starting from 6500. Regarding the rheostat I did the 100 times method!! and ended up with broken spring :-)) so I disassembled it and did some cleaning and soldering to get it back to work. My only Issue is I don't know what size of bolt and nut should I use to secure it. At present it's held in place by the long screw but I'd like to make it better. If you had a chance to fix yours, let me know what type/size of bolt and nut you would use. Thank you very much.
Thank you for your comment and also for highlighting the issue with the rev counter - I hadn't noticed that!
The dimmer switch is held in place with one long screw (no nut and no washer) This is the same type of screw which screws the instruments to the plastic casing see 5.10 in video below.
th-cam.com/video/JGVi3O4o1bQ/w-d-xo.html&t
If that is not what you mean - let me know. What part of the world do you live in - If I can find a spare, I'll send it to you. Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars Hi, since the two rivets are gone after drilling, I want to replace them with some tiny bolts and nuts. At present the dimmer is functional and held in place with the long screw but in case I undo that screw everything will fall apart :-) I can use some tiny tie wraps but I'd prefer to use bolt and nut. If you want to fix your old rheostat what would you use instead of rivets? Also thank you very much for your offer.
@@tahaau Hello - the choice of how to proceed depends upon whether you have completely drilled out the brass rivets...or whether you have just drilled out the top part of the rivet.
1. If the latter, you can use M1 or M2 self tapping screws and screw into whats left of the soft brass rivet tube.You could also potentially use an M1 or M2 "tap" to cut threads and use a 'machine screw'.
2. If you have completely drilled out the rivets and are just left with the white plastic, you will need at least 15mm long M1 or M2 stainless steel or brass bolts with a M1 or M2 nuts.
Places like boltworld.co.uk/ sell them.
Hope that helps.
Mike
@@MikesMercsandothercars Thanks for your reply and also for the link. That was very helpful.
@@tahaau As it happens....I just went to buy a newpark brake switch only to find they are over £200!! So I will shortrly be doing a vodeo about how to repair the switch which will entail drilling out the rivets and bolting it back together. I have ordered various size nuts and bolts to see which works best. Mike
Good video Mike!
Thanks - hope your rebuild is going well. Mike
Hi Mike are you still contemplating doing an ev conversion to an R107 ?
Thanks for your comment....well I was until I found out about the cost. The kit alone is over £50,000!!...and that doesn't include fitting it (that is from Classic EV is Wales UK) The SL Shop had their R107 ev for sale for close to £90,000! So...I have cooled on the idea but not gievn up completely. Mike
I am interested also but not at those prices! I would imagine there is a way to do it more cost effectively. I hear GM and Ford in the usa are going to introduce "crate" kits to retrofit some of their vehicles. These could perhaps be adapted to the R107.
@@SuperJg1964 Yes - at those prices, its just not worth it. One of the issues is the cost of the batteries. Most classic conversion places are using 2nd hand Tesla batteries and these are expensive. Like you, I am on the look out for something affordable. Mike
Can you advise where the power comes from that works the Idle solenoid
Hi - what make model and year car do you have? Mike
Can one pull the instrument panel without removing the steering wheel? I'd like to change the lighting rheostat and a few bulbs only. Thank You!
I'm not sure...I have only ever done it with the steering wheel removed. I'll check tomorrow and get back to you.
Is there a reason you don't want to remove the steering wheel? It is only held on with one nut.
Mike
Steering wheel removal requires a breaker bar and long pipe to hold steering wheel steady. @@MikesMercsandothercars
Yes - I suppose if it has never been off before, it might be a bit tight. An impact wrench will often work if you happen to have one. If not, it is Christmas coming up...you could treat yourself. Mike@@skidaddy626
@MikesMercsandothercars Impact would work. Thanks for suggesting it! And thanks very much for your videos!
No probs - glad the videos are of use and good luck with the steering wheel removal. Mike @@skidaddy626
my odometer has broken, i have brought the cogs but cannot fit them if my life depended on it
Thanks for your comment and sorry to hear you are having a cog problem. Remind me where you live? Do you have any photos of the cog and also the stem you are trying to fit it to? I seem to remember that I ended up having to drill out the cog to make it fit - didi you see that video? Mike
How would I bypass the rheostat?
Thanks for your comment. I’m out in Australia till Feb but will have a look at one of my by passed rheostats when I get back. You can still buy these units. Mike