@@ryanbianchi6582 as opposed to adding to every second one. How big do you think that batch of blanks was? 50 pieces. Nope. It was probably like 15 or 20. I "add to" and "take from" metal things all day. Mr consensus is right take it off is much easier. And use a file across one end, it leaves an even edge.
@@metalsurgeon9196 genuine question bcoz you sound like the expert. Aren't you wasting gold that way and in the long run wouldn't you have wasted a lot of gold? I know little to nothing about this.
@@yusufayaz2356 usually with expensive metals people have catches for the scraps to then remelt later! Im not sure if everyone does this but the few ppl i know who work with gold save as much gold as they possible can. Now if its steel or aluminum ppl dont care lol
It a be cool to have a personal collection of gold coins with my face on it. So when I pass them on to my great grand children they’ll think I was a ruler or something
He stamps them with a design after this step so it doesn't matter that there is a surface deformation, as the press with correct that when stamped with the design.
I toured a factory where they made precision brass weights for calibrating scales. They would cast the weights a few grams oversize and then file a little bit off one of the corners to get it perfect and remelt the shavings into a new batch of weights. Still use one of the weights I got to this day!
If I bought a gold coin with melting marks on the back, I would return it for one without it. Edit: I want the whole thing to look nice, even if it’s not being displayed, also I wouldn’t buy one of these anyways, I get my gold from my local G&S exchange.
@@Vazic-.- I guess if you wanted it just for display I understand lol. But still, if you're not showing it off and just have it sitting somewhere you wouldn't really see it anyways.
I think distributing really small pieces on the coin instead of 1 piece at the middle will make them melt much faster, and possibly with less deformed surface!
Or pour your stamp bar with a tendency to stamp a little overweight. It'd be easier to take the weight away rather that melt more on. The trimmings could just go in the next pour. Hell, I don't know.
@@Goalsplus Lol. Yeah, I know what I don't know. I don't try to act like I do and I never belittle myself by offering unsolicited opinions. Arrogance is disgusting
@@treehunter1 not true. Jewelers literally save the dirt off their floors. Big refineries have filters in their drains to catch the gold off their workers hands and clothing when they get washed. They always have a way to recover most of the gold and refine it back to pure.
@@treehunter1 both have there ups and down and he says most its almost all of them if you work in gold you know the value it holds and will put the effort into reclaiming every little piece it might not sound much but it adds up look at platinum anouther expensive metal people will sweep entire highways and collect buckets upon buckets of the dust of the road just to proccess and reclaim the platinum particles that come out of exhausts from the catalytic converters
@@Sarge92this is all true, but it does not mean this guy overweighing gold then cutting down to weight is in any way better than melting a piece into an underweight bar. One way is a pain in the ass for no gain, the other is smoothbrain easy with no waste, no guessing
@@RandyNachoManSandwich gold foil contains nothing but gold. Fake metal foils used in crafts and scamming contain little to no gold. I use gold foil to make a paint/ink for calligraphy, and a slightly thicker foil for fusing on top of silver jewelrypieces, and its 100%fine gold. You just need to be very careful where you buy foils.
It's a tiny volume. Imagine heating up your bathroom, vs heating up your living room. + The torch mainly hits the piece, and the plate is bigger volume as well as bit further away so it doesn't melt down as well
Its fascinating how fast the beads collapse. When you think of melting you think of a slow ooze but when those little gold bits reached temp they just had a complete and utter structural failure its neat idk why that intrigued me so much
Yeah, no other suggestions, that’s probably the best way to do it in terms of ease and efficiency. Plus those scraps we’re gonna be turned into blanks anyway, this way they skip a few steps.
instead of just directly putting those small nuggets and melting them u can just flatten it out and then heat it. it looks better on the back that way imo.
Use it. Your oz’s are marked with a “A Cratering of Gold”. Not only precise precision of weight but each is unique as a bespoke mark. Good as Gold w/a Universal Mark
Love taking a break from studying how electromagnetic waves bounce around and propagate for my telecommunications class by watching a TH-cam video of a man talking about how people implement how (lower frequency) electromagnetic waves bounce around and propagate in art lmao 🤣
As a blacksmith it's always mind blowing to see metal fuse together without flux or atmosphere protection (y'know, as soon as there's oxygen, usually you're not gonna be able to fuse metal)
We find gold valuable in part because it doesn’t rust. It’s sort-of unique in that way. Hence why it doesn’t oxidize at melting temp. but also there are metals that don’t rust at room temp but do at high temps.
Maybe you can retain the flat faces and try fuse the bead onto the bottom edge, then a little planishing flat with a hammer, then perhaps theyl be identical?
DUUUUDE THATS AWESOME. It’s awesome how you can take constructive criticism and say you’ll happily try new ideas given. 👍manipulating precious metals is an awesome profession. Does melting the bead on the coins face cause the stamped image to deform? Ty for the content.
I’m positive it would deform any image on the gold, but it looks like there wasn’t any image quite yet, so perhaps that’s the next step in the process. Would be my guess anyways. 😅
@@pulaski1they are ingots. Not all coins are round- to be coins, they must be introduced as legal tender with a face value not related to the metal value.
You can improve the aesthetic up in a bit by adding compression molding to the mixture. When you use the blow torch, it leaves an impression and it’s visually unappealing, but if you are compression molding, then you can give everything a uniform shape.
Flatten out the tiny beads then heat them up, might take less heat due to more surface area being heated by the torch and might not alter the surface finish of the original coin by too much
It's common to do what you doing. The trick is to do this at the blanking stage before you strike the design. But a better idea is tighten up your tolerance on the rolling the strip. It's better to aim for a blank being a tad high maybe 37.6 to 37.8 and remove the extra with a gouge before striking the design. This removes the need for a torch witch has a lot of added risks. Also it's not hard to automate the removal of a fraction of a gram 🙄.
I remember when studying gold operations in America (I’m a historian) one prominent gold smith in New York said “the secret to making money off gold is poor sad sods and ripping .01 from everything you sell” there’s a reason why they are always remelting, somewhere someone’s gotta make the ACTUAL profit
You should make a logo stamp that can be used to form the logo with the itty bitty extra gold you need to add so it doesn’t look like a puddle mishaps. I appreciate your honesty with the scale. 😊
If anyone is worried he's not truly soldering since he's not using any "solder" but actually fusing. This is actually the better way to do it since solder is used more in repairs as it has non-gold compounds that help it to melt into the gold to hold broken chains or rings but this just looks like melting gold into other gold, hence fusing
Tig welding would be much much more efficient, essentially you are heating the whole bar here. a tig torch will put selected high amps of electricity (in this case low cause it’s gold) and focus it into one spot on the end of of pointed tungsten rod it’ll pool that metal on there in literally 5 seconds flat and leave the rest of the bar untouched much quicker and efficient
@@blastfromthepast7119 you ever used a tig welder mate ? 🤣 it would most definitely Melt it into the bar and be much much faster. it would concentrate the heat through electricity on that small spot, instead of making the whole bar glow hot that one spot would melt sinking extra gold into the bar. also What do you think welding is It’s literally melting metal into metal?
@@halfordjoel where you hook the thing youre weldong to a battery? Yeah. The gold pooled into quite a large drop, almost like water. I think just melting the loose piece will cause it to not diffuse into the bar as much as this method where everything it touches the moment it melts into a pool is also near molten
Mate you clearly are uneducated on the subject or your know what you’re saying is stupid you “ hook the thing” (the negative electrode) earthing it too the table you work on. The metal would be molten but only concentrated on one small spot where you added gold and as you hold it a few seconds it would melt into the bar saves you heating the whole bar using much less gas and wasting alot less time This is my job mate, but thanks for your input.
A better option if you know how to do this or know someone who can, is to use a TIG Welder. It would produce a smaller affected area, be even quicker when you tune it in. However I have little (none) gold welding experience lol. So you might be the first Gold Tig welder if you get this going. Cool stuff man.
Would you be able to torch the added gold separately on the hot plate, then heat up smaller area on the back of gold plate and press it on (maybe with a custom seal of guaranteed weight)
Gonna do a bit a griping but what you did was more welding then soldering, soldering is using a metal to secure two other metals together, welding is metal both metals together. 👍👍
you're welding them together, soldering and brazing are done without melting the base metal. Also annealing is a process of heat treatment with the goal of softening the metal.
Better to leave a raised bezel which you can sand down to weight - since adding blobs can make stacks unstable. That way you can collect the dust in a special vaccuum container
Make a circle divit on the tooling press so once measured you can add small squashed circle gold scrap nugget and you can just place right amount inside and melts it with torch but this time due to thinness of the squashed gold scrap will melt much faster and bond to the gold bar without too much distortion or "puddle" like melted spot
Add to your stock 0.002" thicker & re-weigh It's your sheet/bar stock is inconsistent is causing the issues. Same as when they punch firearm brass cartridges. If the sheet is inconsistent thickness the end product has thinner wall thicknesses resulting in different final volume. I recommend looking into processes they have in place, you could apply some techniques to refine your processes. 😅
This is the best way better to add then to cut pieces off deforming the blank anyway . You cant tell if you had to add anything or recast yours is the easiest and fastest way
I would definitely sell at a discount. I know there’s not much margin all the time, but that’s a loss you’ll have to sacrifice to save the labor cost of remelting. Unless you can get it back to the same polish most collectors have a high probability of sending it back. I’d add them at the right price, but I’m not going to pay full price, & premium for a damaged (imperfect) bar of any kind. If I’m going to spend top dollar I’ll just go to the mints. No disrespect to the hustle at all, things don’t go perfect. Condition is a huge part of the game in this scene, & people are picky.
![[ไฮไลต์] แบดมินตันหญิง "เมย์ รัชนก" ไทย vs เบลเยี่ยม รอบแบ่งกลุ่ม | โอลิมปิก 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qfMROCoiKMY/mqdefault.jpg)
Purchase our gold coins at kimminhstudios.com!
You forgot to pin the comment as well!
Make sure to pin!!!! They’re very nice
A shame im not American, anyways, very cool product! 👍
𝙘𝙤𝙞𝙣𝙨?
It would definitely be worth while to do this on all your videos
It'd be waaay faster to just ship me a couple of the under weight ones and then just pretend they didn't exist
Right! Most economical thing to do with low quality product is to hand them to customers for free too gain loyal Ness. Lol
how come?
@@BrickedUpBradr/whoosh
@@Sans-uk3sbisn't reddit dweeb
@@Sans-uk3sbthis isn't Reddit stfu
Always go overweight and cut little pieces off until the weight comes down to what you want. Much easier taking metal away than adding it.
True, it would look better too
Umm… yea so EVERY one would need to be checked and adjusted. That’s efficient.. not to mention you’ll have some jagged looking bars
@@ryanbianchi6582 as opposed to adding to every second one. How big do you think that batch of blanks was? 50 pieces. Nope. It was probably like 15 or 20. I "add to" and "take from" metal things all day. Mr consensus is right take it off is much easier. And use a file across one end, it leaves an even edge.
@@metalsurgeon9196 genuine question bcoz you sound like the expert. Aren't you wasting gold that way and in the long run wouldn't you have wasted a lot of gold? I know little to nothing about this.
@@yusufayaz2356 usually with expensive metals people have catches for the scraps to then remelt later! Im not sure if everyone does this but the few ppl i know who work with gold save as much gold as they possible can. Now if its steel or aluminum ppl dont care lol
It a be cool to have a personal collection of gold coins with my face on it. So when I pass them on to my great grand children they’ll think I was a ruler or something
Ahahaha 😂
Lol
Welp I know what I’m gonna do with some silver had laying around now 😂 just gotta make some nice molds.
godamnit that is dope genius
Ruler : No, something: Sure 😂.
I’m convinced he calls these bars coins to drive up engagement.
;)
Check the website kimminhstudios.com and see what I have listed over there as the name
@@itsjamesly y’all call en coins and bars on the site. Also just a question, how often does a bar go underweight? I’d imagine it’s not too often
They are actually coins though just cause they aren’t round don’t mean it’s not a coin
@@tonyzone8999 it’s not though, coins are authorized by governments and have face values on them. This is just a nice ole gold bar
He stamps them with a design after this step so it doesn't matter that there is a surface deformation, as the press with correct that when stamped with the design.
I toured a factory where they made precision brass weights for calibrating scales. They would cast the weights a few grams oversize and then file a little bit off one of the corners to get it perfect and remelt the shavings into a new batch of weights. Still use one of the weights I got to this day!
put tungsten or silver in the middle of the coins and sell them full price! works everytime!!
Scam
You'd be better off treating them like any other stamping anomaly. Use it.
@@Unknownuserhtps yeah, ❤❤❤❤❤.
Scam
@@remixgod4496 what does that even mean???
I would recommend flattening the little piece before melting it to the coin/lil bar.
It will naturally form a blob shape once melted
If I bought a gold coin with melting marks on the back, I would return it for one without it.
Edit: I want the whole thing to look nice, even if it’s not being displayed, also I wouldn’t buy one of these anyways, I get my gold from my local G&S exchange.
Hopefully it can be pressed out
Why? It's not like it changes the value.
Stop being a girl
@@RealShaggy It’s about quality
@@Vazic-.- I guess if you wanted it just for display I understand lol. But still, if you're not showing it off and just have it sitting somewhere you wouldn't really see it anyways.
I think distributing really small pieces on the coin instead of 1 piece at the middle will make them melt much faster, and possibly with less deformed surface!
You risk the gas moving the pieces when they get too small.
Your videos are amazing and we need more !! Love your videos
Your way is efficient my friend. Don't listen to anyone. 😏👍🏾
Yeah efficient for him since he gets more profit on the ones that are unnoticed
Moron yeah he has to listen to people. What if there is a better. Hard heading huh?
@@Donaldtrummp you can literally weigh it yourself :/ like no one would notice
@@Donaldtrummp what the hell are you talking about
@@Superw0rrio sure I weigh my gold but some dummies don't or just don't own a gram scale he takin advantage, these were jus returns he added too
sheets of gold of varying thickness. gold being a very soft metal you pressure weald them together
You can trust him. He wealds 😂😂
@@SuperNicoli12345😂😂😂
Or pour your stamp bar with a tendency to stamp a little overweight. It'd be easier to take the weight away rather that melt more on. The trimmings could just go in the next pour. Hell, I don't know.
The last sentence is perfect. So many people think they know the perfect solution to something and they have never left their basements.
@@Goalsplus Lol. Yeah, I know what I don't know. I don't try to act like I do and I never belittle myself by offering unsolicited opinions. Arrogance is disgusting
That way would be significantly more time consuming and likely to lose gold than just melting a known weight piece into the underweight bar.
Make them slightly too heavy and remove some material at the end.
But the material you remove would likely be lost or hard to recover because it’s so minuscule.
@@treehunter1 not true. Jewelers literally save the dirt off their floors. Big refineries have filters in their drains to catch the gold off their workers hands and clothing when they get washed. They always have a way to recover most of the gold and refine it back to pure.
@@BabyJesus66 you said the word most. And why all that work when you can just melt a little piece.
@@treehunter1 both have there ups and down and he says most its almost all of them if you work in gold you know the value it holds and will put the effort into reclaiming every little piece
it might not sound much but it adds up
look at platinum anouther expensive metal people will sweep entire highways and collect buckets upon buckets of the dust of the road just to proccess and reclaim the platinum particles that come out of exhausts from the catalytic converters
@@Sarge92this is all true, but it does not mean this guy overweighing gold then cutting down to weight is in any way better than melting a piece into an underweight bar.
One way is a pain in the ass for no gain, the other is smoothbrain easy with no waste, no guessing
i tried making my first coin and had the same issue…maybe this same technique with thinner gold foil idk
Gold foil contains no gold, there's a video trying to smelt it.
@@RandyNachoManSandwich gold foil contains nothing but gold. Fake metal foils used in crafts and scamming contain little to no gold. I use gold foil to make a paint/ink for calligraphy, and a slightly thicker foil for fusing on top of silver jewelrypieces, and its 100%fine gold. You just need to be very careful where you buy foils.
@@RandyNachoManSandwich Their is fake gold foil & real gold foil
Does that little piece really just “bloop” melt like that instantly?! That’s so cool!
I wonder if it’s the surface tension pulling it down and like, insta welding it to the surface or something because it’s fun to watch
Delta T = Delta Q / (M*C) its tiny so yea.
It's a tiny volume. Imagine heating up your bathroom, vs heating up your living room.
+ The torch mainly hits the piece, and the plate is bigger volume as well as bit further away so it doesn't melt down as well
Probably use gold dust instead of small chunks so you get a smoother finish
That amazing
The gold dust would burn before the gold bar got hot enough to fuse together
@@bigbillmontgomeryjr2346 good point. preheat gold bar might solve the problem.
Most of the dust would be blown off by the torch so that most likely wouldnt work too well.
They stamp it on both sides so it looks completely normal
I subbed after seeing how satisfying these vids are. Keep up the good content! 😊
Excellent work.
No, your way is just fine. Saves time, and labor & we all know, time is money. I could understand if it was like 4+ grams off.
Design the blank with a small indent so that if you ever have to add gold it won't puddle up on top
They have a stamp that presses into both sides you can’t tell it was there at all
Its pure gold- soft and melts readily .when the pattern is struck into it, you cant tell where the added gold was.
Its fascinating how fast the beads collapse. When you think of melting you think of a slow ooze but when those little gold bits reached temp they just had a complete and utter structural failure its neat idk why that intrigued me so much
Yeah, no other suggestions, that’s probably the best way to do it in terms of ease and efficiency. Plus those scraps we’re gonna be turned into blanks anyway, this way they skip a few steps.
instead of just directly putting those small nuggets and melting them u can just flatten it out and then heat it. it looks better on the back that way imo.
That hand craftsmanship adds value!
Use it. Your oz’s are marked with a “A Cratering of Gold”.
Not only precise precision of weight but each is unique as a bespoke mark. Good as Gold w/a Universal Mark
Love taking a break from studying how electromagnetic waves bounce around and propagate for my telecommunications class by watching a TH-cam video of a man talking about how people implement how (lower frequency) electromagnetic waves bounce around and propagate in art lmao 🤣
You'd be insane to reblank them. Extra time and energy cost. This is exactly what I'd do.
As a blacksmith it's always mind blowing to see metal fuse together without flux or atmosphere protection (y'know, as soon as there's oxygen, usually you're not gonna be able to fuse metal)
We find gold valuable in part because it doesn’t rust. It’s sort-of unique in that way. Hence why it doesn’t oxidize at melting temp. but also there are metals that don’t rust at room temp but do at high temps.
@@bigiron4018 yup, that's impressive that even at high heat it stays clean and shiny. No wonder our ancestors always saw it at somehow divine
This is a very old method and very convenient, its like putting hash together lol
Those are bars bro 😂
Flatten the scraps so less heat is needed to fuse it back to the blank out. You can do this by hand with a hammer/roller.
To melt it in, you need to melt both the small piece AND the blank or you'll have a blank with a melted ball of gold sitting on top.
Do you work with silver bars?
A little JB WELD is the best way to stick more gold on:)
I wouldn’t complain about having a back like the ones you made. Shows that quality control is keeping the metals weight honest.
Iam fairly new to your channel but why the 37.5 weight?
Our main customers are Vietnamese & they take “tael” which is 37.5G coins!
Ah thanks. 31.1g is a Troy ounce I was scratching my head.
Compromised, don't compromise.
What do you mean by that?
That is amazing to see because as a small time refiner having to start over on an under weight bar
Maybe you can retain the flat faces and try fuse the bead onto the bottom edge, then a little planishing flat with a hammer, then perhaps theyl be identical?
DUUUUDE THATS AWESOME. It’s awesome how you can take constructive criticism and say you’ll happily try new ideas given. 👍manipulating precious metals is an awesome profession. Does melting the bead on the coins face cause the stamped image to deform? Ty for the content.
I’m positive it would deform any image on the gold, but it looks like there wasn’t any image quite yet, so perhaps that’s the next step in the process. Would be my guess anyways. 😅
Looks like a good system you've come up with. In regards to a better way, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I find it kind of cool that there's a little blip on the surface, kind of makes it unique to you
I would have called it a bar, but you do you.
They're called coins because they weigh 37 grams
Coins are [1] round, and [2] issued by a mint. If they're not issued by a mint, they're "rounds". Rectangles are "bars".
@@pulaski1they are ingots. Not all coins are round- to be coins, they must be introduced as legal tender with a face value not related to the metal value.
mans just asking for free business advice from comments 😭
How about a video on the Vietnamese units of measurement for Gold? I was totally unaware of the mot luong until now.
It's actually kind of a really ingenious way of doing it
You should stamp it after for nice finish.
Looks good to me, the weights on and thats all that matters!
You can improve the aesthetic up in a bit by adding compression molding to the mixture.
When you use the blow torch, it leaves an impression and it’s visually unappealing, but if you are compression molding, then you can give everything a uniform shape.
He stamps it later.
He stamps it later ♤ and that removes any puddles
Flatten out the tiny beads then heat them up, might take less heat due to more surface area being heated by the torch and might not alter the surface finish of the original coin by too much
I got you homie. Just go slightly over. So if anyone weighs it, if it’s over it’s cause it’s over . Customer morale boost more sales
It's common to do what you doing.
The trick is to do this at the blanking stage before you strike the design.
But a better idea is tighten up your tolerance on the rolling the strip.
It's better to aim for a blank being a tad high maybe 37.6 to 37.8 and remove the extra with a gouge before striking the design. This removes the need for a torch witch has a lot of added risks.
Also it's not hard to automate the removal of a fraction of a gram 🙄.
I love how it just goes “bloop”
I think many people do it this way. Last year I bought a half a kilo silver biscuit and it has the same marking as these gold ones have. 😊
I remember when studying gold operations in America (I’m a historian) one prominent gold smith in New York said “the secret to making money off gold is poor sad sods and ripping .01 from everything you sell” there’s a reason why they are always remelting, somewhere someone’s gotta make the ACTUAL profit
When he called welding "annealing" and "soldering" I died a little inside.
You could heat plate with a crucible mold ensure even siding and no puddle mark
When the good turns into a puddle it almost looks edited like there’s a cut but it’s not it’s just it’s state changing its cool
You should make a logo stamp that can be used to form the logo with the itty bitty extra gold you need to add so it doesn’t look like a puddle mishaps. I appreciate your honesty with the scale. 😊
Go into the vacuum of space and cold weld them together. Waaaaay easier
That seems like a great idea. The only other thing I can think of right now is electroplating. Or some sort of plasma deposition.
If anyone is worried he's not truly soldering since he's not using any "solder" but actually fusing. This is actually the better way to do it since solder is used more in repairs as it has non-gold compounds that help it to melt into the gold to hold broken chains or rings but this just looks like melting gold into other gold, hence fusing
This is the video that is reassures that I will never give you my money.
I think that's really smart and you should keep doing it
Word people are looking for is fuse.
The little piece is fused to the larger piece.
gold can be cold fused you could put them through a press and re-melt it saving the slight imperfection.
Tig welding would be much much more efficient, essentially you are heating the whole bar here. a tig torch will put selected high amps of electricity (in this case low cause it’s gold) and focus it into one spot on the end of of pointed tungsten rod it’ll pool that metal on there in literally 5 seconds flat and leave the rest of the bar untouched much quicker and efficient
But he wants to melt it into the bar, not melt it to the bar. Two different things
@@blastfromthepast7119 you ever used a tig welder mate ? 🤣 it would most definitely Melt it into the bar and be much much faster. it would concentrate the heat through electricity on that small spot, instead of making the whole bar glow hot that one spot would melt sinking extra gold into the bar. also What do you think welding is It’s literally melting metal into metal?
@@halfordjoel where you hook the thing youre weldong to a battery? Yeah.
The gold pooled into quite a large drop, almost like water. I think just melting the loose piece will cause it to not diffuse into the bar as much as this method where everything it touches the moment it melts into a pool is also near molten
Mate you clearly are uneducated on the subject or your know what you’re saying is stupid you “ hook the thing” (the negative electrode) earthing it too the table you work on. The metal would be molten but only concentrated on one small spot where you added gold and as you hold it a few seconds it would melt into the bar saves you heating the whole bar using much less gas and wasting alot less time This is my job mate, but thanks for your input.
A better option if you know how to do this or know someone who can, is to use a TIG Welder. It would produce a smaller affected area, be even quicker when you tune it in. However I have little (none) gold welding experience lol. So you might be the first Gold Tig welder if you get this going. Cool stuff man.
Would you be able to torch the added gold separately on the hot plate, then heat up smaller area on the back of gold plate and press it on (maybe with a custom seal of guaranteed weight)
Maybe use a stamp that has an indentation that is decorative. You can fill it in with any gold you need to add.
Take the chunk of gold and hammer it thin. Then lay the thin sheet on the larger slab of gold and heat up to melt them together.
Gonna do a bit a griping but what you did was more welding then soldering, soldering is using a metal to secure two other metals together, welding is metal both metals together. 👍👍
Weigh the gold and try putting a little extra then if it weighs too much cut some off and put them in the mold again
you're welding them together, soldering and brazing are done without melting the base metal. Also annealing is a process of heat treatment with the goal of softening the metal.
Better to leave a raised bezel which you can sand down to weight - since adding blobs can make stacks unstable.
That way you can collect the dust in a special vaccuum container
Make a circle divit on the tooling press so once measured you can add small squashed circle gold scrap nugget and you can just place right amount inside and melts it with torch but this time due to thinness of the squashed gold scrap will melt much faster and bond to the gold bar without too much distortion or "puddle" like melted spot
You can create a tool for cutting bar into smaller pieces (0,01/0,02,0,05/0,10g), segregate them into bins per weight and speed up this process.
Friction welding works well with gold due to its minimal oxidation layer.
That’s pretty cool man
Hey I use that little smith torch for glass blowing
Aim for 37.6 or 37.75 and cut more material removing is easier then adding
You could make small company emblem from gold and solder it on the front side next to markings
Damn another video about gold coins without a gold coin in sight.
If those are topless molds, i would imagine a piece of graphite on top of those molds would be able to force a consistent depth.
Add to your stock 0.002" thicker & re-weigh
It's your sheet/bar stock is inconsistent is causing the issues.
Same as when they punch firearm brass cartridges. If the sheet is inconsistent thickness the end product has thinner wall thicknesses resulting in different final volume. I recommend looking into processes they have in place, you could apply some techniques to refine your processes. 😅
This is the best way better to add then to cut pieces off deforming the blank anyway . You cant tell if you had to add anything or recast yours is the easiest and fastest way
This seems like the most efficient
Maybe get small gold shavings instead so you dont get that bump after melting
Duct tape 👍
Pre heat the gold nugget to a certain degree before u put it on the biscuit so it merges a little bit more casually
Warm it a little bit them squish it with flattened thingy so it’ll be warm enough to melt + stick to the bar.
I would definitely sell at a discount. I know there’s not much margin all the time, but that’s a loss you’ll have to sacrifice to save the labor cost of remelting. Unless you can get it back to the same polish most collectors have a high probability of sending it back. I’d add them at the right price, but I’m not going to pay full price, & premium for a damaged (imperfect) bar of any kind. If I’m going to spend top dollar I’ll just go to the mints. No disrespect to the hustle at all, things don’t go perfect. Condition is a huge part of the game in this scene, & people are picky.
It might be more efficient to have an enclosure to capture more of that heat and direct it onto multiple of the pieces at once.
You could also measure it and press it in a press mould since you have a press
Keep a container of 24k refined gold powder , add the required weight and press it. Gold should be soft enough to still come out mirror finished
Put a stamp on it prior to cooling to let buyers know where it was annealed.
that seems like the most efficient way to do it
I would put a chamfer on the stamp it'll add a little bit of metal and around some of the corners