If you sit there with your bike idling for 15 minutes you're doing a diservice to the engine. These inline 4's heat up the oil very quickly. 2 minutes max and then you should set off driving at low RPM. Put the engine under minimal load to warm up. That's insane if you let it idle that long.
There's two trains of thought on this, one is 2k gets the oil up to the cams, cct and other parts, quicker without being to high to cause damage ? Some engines need the hydrolics fed quickly to prevent alternative more immediate damage 💔
The EPA regulations are really messing up the tuning, now I’m curious why so many program in so much throttle cut. Why would it not give you 100% throttle if you command 100% throttle?
Hi...Can you make on board review with that Stealth Rizoma mirror? Did this item help in term of down force? How about the visibility? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for deleting all my conversation with you regarding oil consumption. Anyhow I think you are the only one on the planet with no oil burning on this bike. All the best !!!
I am from Germany and I have a m1000rr can I get a stage 1 tune without the valves open ? Because here it‘s not allowed to have the vavles open ? It would be to loud
The 70% to 90% engine wear at start-up is outdated mythology from the Slick50 days. Essentially no load on the engine at idle, wear occurs at high load - all well established facts
Oil needs time to heat or it doesn’t protect. This is why the dash on the s1k and m1k have the redline at 6k when first started and as the engine warms it moves the redline higher and higher until the engine oil is at operating temp. Heat also expands metal. This means cold you’ll have more cylinder wash and blow by until the engine is properly heated. Warming your engine up isn’t a thing of the past and when cold, more wear hits then engine than any other time the bike is operated.
True, oil needs proper temperature to flow and lubricate properly, but it's also well established (when using high quality synthetic oils) there is residual oil on the parts that doesn't all completely drain to the pan. I'm not saying you want to start the engine and rev to 8k before warm up of course, but there is essentially no load on the engine at idle and no evidence to support the "70% wear" claims, in fact that stuff has been debunked. Talk to a tech at Amsoil or other reputable manufacturer. Furthermore modern 0w-40 oils have a very low pour point
@@fzr1000981 you don’t need to talk to anyone. You can do an oil analysis yourself. Drive like normal right after you fire up the bike and do it for 3000 miles. Then change your oil again and this time warm the bike up for 10 min before riding. You’ll see less metal, less fuel and less contaminants in the oil when warmed up properly. Synthetic or not, it’s a well established fact by many studies and you’re welcome to do your own oil analysis yourself. It’s quite telling.
Interesting but I'd like to see a rigorous study. I don't idle any ice vehicle for a long period but always baby the engine (light throttle) until oil is up to temp
Hold on... the initial 2,500 rpm lasted 30 sec... No bike has EPA emissions test done in the 30 sec and no bike generates significant engine temp (you said this) in 30sec...What kind of BS are you pedalling - "90% of wear happens at start up"... BS.... But your solution, flash it to get rid of 30 sec high idle...Engine wear come from 2 things, excessive heat and sub optimal lubrication... None of that happens at start-up, unless your oil pump is compromised
Your statement contradicts itself. You said a primary factor is “sub optimal lubrication”. Do you know what the two numbers on oil represent? And why you don’t see any racers smashing the limiter with a cold engine?
If you sit there with your bike idling for 15 minutes you're doing a diservice to the engine. These inline 4's heat up the oil very quickly. 2 minutes max and then you should set off driving at low RPM. Put the engine under minimal load to warm up. That's insane if you let it idle that long.
It's a shame BMW weren't able to solve cold start issues.My s1000rr has them,and it's the most a annoying thing I've ever experienced....
You folks at BT do amazing work. Keep it up! 👍
Enjoying brentune Stage 2!! Thanks for the info
There's two trains of thought on this, one is 2k gets the oil up to the cams, cct and other parts, quicker without being to high to cause damage ? Some engines need the hydrolics fed quickly to prevent alternative more immediate damage 💔
The EPA regulations are really messing up the tuning, now I’m curious why so many program in so much throttle cut. Why would it not give you 100% throttle if you command 100% throttle?
You have the link to order the mirrors, they are very beautiful.
That is freakin majestic
Hi...Can you make on board review with that Stealth Rizoma mirror? Did this item help in term of down force? How about the visibility? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for deleting all my conversation with you regarding oil consumption. Anyhow I think you are the only one on the planet with no oil burning on this bike. All the best !!!
is there any way to adjust the footpegs so they are even with the brake and shifter. Just want it to be more comfortable
Sometimes I wish I was more clever than BMW too!
Does a btmoto flash mess with the warranty?
Do these flashes void the warranty?? I would assume so.
Your assumption is correct. Wave goodbye to the BMW warranty if you flash it. And wave goodbye to the flash, if the dealer applies any updates too.
I am from Germany and I have a m1000rr can I get a stage 1 tune without the valves open ? Because here it‘s not allowed to have the vavles open ?
It would be to loud
Yes, we can do that
The 70% to 90% engine wear at start-up is outdated mythology from the Slick50 days. Essentially no load on the engine at idle, wear occurs at high load - all well established facts
Oil needs time to heat or it doesn’t protect. This is why the dash on the s1k and m1k have the redline at 6k when first started and as the engine warms it moves the redline higher and higher until the engine oil is at operating temp. Heat also expands metal. This means cold you’ll have more cylinder wash and blow by until the engine is properly heated. Warming your engine up isn’t a thing of the past and when cold, more wear hits then engine than any other time the bike is operated.
True, oil needs proper temperature to flow and lubricate properly, but it's also well established (when using high quality synthetic oils) there is residual oil on the parts that doesn't all completely drain to the pan. I'm not saying you want to start the engine and rev to 8k before warm up of course, but there is essentially no load on the engine at idle and no evidence to support the "70% wear" claims, in fact that stuff has been debunked. Talk to a tech at Amsoil or other reputable manufacturer. Furthermore modern 0w-40 oils have a very low pour point
@@fzr1000981 you don’t need to talk to anyone. You can do an oil analysis yourself. Drive like normal right after you fire up the bike and do it for 3000 miles. Then change your oil again and this time warm the bike up for 10 min before riding. You’ll see less metal, less fuel and less contaminants in the oil when warmed up properly. Synthetic or not, it’s a well established fact by many studies and you’re welcome to do your own oil analysis yourself. It’s quite telling.
Interesting but I'd like to see a rigorous study. I don't idle any ice vehicle for a long period but always baby the engine (light throttle) until oil is up to temp
Very good!!!!
It’s cold it’s meant do that
👍
Too bad you didn't come to Portugal, otherwise you'd flash my K67 😥😥
3/36 warranty let it idle at 2500 most of us wont have it that long anyway. The stock tune does suck though.
More videos man! You know your shit
What mirrors do you have?
Rizoma
Hold on... the initial 2,500 rpm lasted 30 sec... No bike has EPA emissions test done in the 30 sec and no bike generates significant engine temp (you said this) in 30sec...What kind of BS are you pedalling - "90% of wear happens at start up"... BS.... But your solution, flash it to get rid of 30 sec high idle...Engine wear come from 2 things, excessive heat and sub optimal lubrication... None of that happens at start-up, unless your oil pump is compromised
Your statement contradicts itself. You said a primary factor is “sub optimal lubrication”. Do you know what the two numbers on oil represent? And why you don’t see any racers smashing the limiter with a cold engine?
😁👍
Capping on the brake comment. No way those brakes are better than the Brembo.
You would think so but no. Standard V4S brembo’s are subpar to the OEM nissin’s on the M1K
The reason why they changed it beacuse the old one leaked , so i wouldnt agree