Don’t feel rushed! This is a guess but I would bet lunch money that the rest of your viewers wouldn’t be mad if you had longer videos. I know I wouldn’t! Keep up the good work👍
Piecework, or "price" as we call it, is the most common way chippies work on new build sites here in the UK. You get paid per meter or skirting, or for a room, plot etc. But we mainly work on a subcontractor/self-employed basis, rarely employed basis
we were a crew of grown men that came from the trim days of solid wood...cope joints, wainscoting, coffered ceilings, etc... now in trim its all garbage mdf. Whole point lol, we walk other trim crews house sometimes and are like holy shiit look at halfass work, doors that arent even shutting plumb.....45° joints that you could fit a five-in-one into.... there is no accountability and better quality makes more money any more
Damn ec you’re such a boss and inspiration I would never have imagined you were a piece worker if you don’t mind me asking how old were you when you were stacking..?not only that but you honesty is golden thank you for all you do for us you’re always going to be a legend in my book:)
It’s always so cool to watch him talk about building out in OR. I was lucky enough to work in carpentry in the Portland/Hood River area. Such an amazing part of the country and such good lumber!! They really do have a bunch of hard working good ol boys too. Keep up the great work!
Speaking of DIY oopsies discovered at inpsection - Had an engineer tell me of a client who wanted him to give advice about the floor joists on a project. When you looked up from below every so often you would see a joist with the words "top" printed on it. Client wanted to know how to fix them. "Turn them over" was the only response.
In reference to loans, anytime you get a loan you just married the lender and they get to dictate terms which can have far reaching affects. I got a loan to purchase a cnc machine for my business. Nothing went wrong and it has been paid off, but it produced more stress than I would have imagined when I got the loan. I am doing my best to save and pay cash for any future purchases. Being debt free gives you so many more options in how you choose to operate.
Wise words. It’s not always possible to buy everything with cash but whenever possible, it should be the first resort. Anyone who has ever gotten in over their heads with a loan or 2 will attest to the fact that it’s just not worth the brain damage.
I built a 550 sqft detached garage at my Denver house by myself. I only had help with the monolithic slab and the trusses. But when I was finally getting to installing the siding on the gable end (on the alley side) the end truss was about 4” out on top. It was impossible to fix correctly at that point by because of blocking, bracing and 2 layers of 15/32 roof sheathing and shingles. But I couldn’t leave it that way. I ended up blocking out the bottom before sheathing/siding and creating a ledge/shelf above the garage door. It killed me knowing it was there. Just something that was overlooked or maybe it looked straight when me and my buddies were stacking the trusses. Luckily the inspector didn’t go to the alley side during the framing inspection.
I was going to mention stairwells being an exceptionally problematic area for pick-up (punch-out) work, in your last video, on the other channel, but got sidetracked onto something else. So right!! One of the greatest things about building with wood is the ability to ‘fix’ problems that come up. It’s almost as ‘moldable’ as clay. If you happen to be building with concrete or even partially concrete, make sure your builder pays extra attention to the plane between floors, in the stairwells. Concrete is exceptionally unforgiving in this respect. Rather than having the luxury of using a power plane to remove some unwanted ‘bulging’ wood, you now have to resort to a chipping hammer. But don’t think you can just chip away the offending concrete bulge. Typically you will encounter the reinforcing steel, in the concrete within ¾” of an inch! Now you’ve got real problems ($$). Give the stairwells extra attention during the build.
Nate when are you going to have your brothers on the show. If you have sisters I'm sure that would be interesting, seriously Nate's siblings we'd sure like to meet you
Hello Scott and Nate. First, I've been watching all of the videos, both on EC2 and the original EC and really enjoy them. I was wondering, with all of your knowledge and experience, if you ever considered doing instructional videos for beginners? Thanks for all you do and keep up the good work.
Ive been following your build with interest since the start. Back in Ep78 you put the Roof Shingles on. Can I ask a question? As you worked your way up the pitch on each surface, I was curious to see you still nailing the ToeBoards onto the new shingled roof. Does this not cause holes for potential leaks through the brand new roof? Because of your amazing attention to detail & your superb skills, I assume that maybe the tar in the shingles might 'self heal' but I am genuinely interested to get your take on this, thanks. We generally don't see roof shingles used here in Australia, so whilst I have done a few building projects, I have no experience with this type of roof cladding. Just FYI we generally see tiles (concrete & fired clay) & metal sheet (Galvanised Corrugated Iron or Colourbond plus other profiles with various commercial names). Thanks again for your series. Cheers from Oz. Tony
Tony, the brackets that hold the toe boards are nailed on top of the upper part of the shingle that gets covered by the next course of shingles. The nail holes in the brackets are shaped like an upside down key hole so that after the toe boards get taken off the bracket can be tapped toward the ridge and unhooked from the nails. On rare occasions one of these nails will cause a problem down the road.
@@tonyurquhart8278 correct. I don't do roofs anymore, but the last ones that I did I would take a piece of the plastic wrapper from a bundle of shingles place it over the bracket so the top shingle didn't get stuck to the one underneath. Made it a bit easier to get at those nails. If you have a full crew so at least one side is done in a day this isn't that important since the bracket is only going to be there for less than a day. If you're working by yourself or if you need to leave the toe boards up to side and trim a dormer it's a good trick yo know.
When I call digsafe they tell me I have 30 days to start the project and 60 days to have it completed, from the time of my phone call to them. Luckily I do only small projects, but I have come close to the deadline a couple times.
I must not have been listening too well when I’ve called them. I don’t recall being warned about having a limited time to complete the job. I can sort of see the thirty days to start since the paint they use to mark the buried utilities does eventually fade and disappear. But once you have started your digging why would they care how long it takes. While common sense isn’t all that common anymore, it does seem to be in one’s own best interest to finish what you’re doing with your excavation as soon as possible and get it backfilled.
The distinction in terminology is made so that there is no confusion between the term “roofing” and “stacking”. Roofing, being the actually dry-in and permanent, visible layer of the roof as opposed to the building of the structure which is stacking. “Stacking” is not a term used around my area (FL) either. It’s just referred to as the roof structure or roof trusses since trusses are far and away the most common practice.
Rolling joists, trusses, thus the name stacking (stacking roofs) for multistory buildings usually 3- 7 floors… only applies to wood framing I believe .. I believe it’s the top of the chain of piecework
Pickup carpentry was a term I hadn't heard before that video was released! I appreciate the education.
Don’t feel rushed! This is a guess but I would bet lunch money that the rest of your viewers wouldn’t be mad if you had longer videos. I know I wouldn’t! Keep up the good work👍
Piece work pickup brings back such wonderful memories. The 80s in southern California was rocking. Thanks for the memories.
Piecework, or "price" as we call it, is the most common way chippies work on new build sites here in the UK. You get paid per meter or skirting, or for a room, plot etc. But we mainly work on a subcontractor/self-employed basis, rarely employed basis
we were a crew of grown men that came from the trim days of solid wood...cope joints, wainscoting, coffered ceilings, etc... now in trim its all garbage mdf. Whole point lol, we walk other trim crews house sometimes and are like holy shiit look at halfass work, doors that arent even shutting plumb.....45° joints that you could fit a five-in-one into.... there is no accountability and better quality makes more money any more
Bring on the junk drawer videos. We love them all!
Damn ec you’re such a boss and inspiration I would never have imagined you were a piece worker if you don’t mind me asking how old were you when you were stacking..?not only that but you honesty is golden thank you for all you do for us you’re always going to be a legend in my book:)
Love the podcasts you make. Rare pearls of wisdom.
It’s always so cool to watch him talk about building out in OR. I was lucky enough to work in carpentry in the Portland/Hood River area. Such an amazing part of the country and such good lumber!! They really do have a bunch of hard working good ol boys too. Keep up the great work!
Speaking of DIY oopsies discovered at inpsection - Had an engineer tell me of a client who wanted him to give advice about the floor joists on a project. When you looked up from below every so often you would see a joist with the words "top" printed on it. Client wanted to know how to fix them. "Turn them over" was the only response.
In reference to loans, anytime you get a loan you just married the lender and they get to dictate terms which can have far reaching affects. I got a loan to purchase a cnc machine for my business. Nothing went wrong and it has been paid off, but it produced more stress than I would have imagined when I got the loan. I am doing my best to save and pay cash for any future purchases. Being debt free gives you so many more options in how you choose to operate.
Wise words. It’s not always possible to buy everything with cash but whenever possible, it should be the first resort. Anyone who has ever gotten in over their heads with a loan or 2 will attest to the fact that it’s just not worth the brain damage.
True! The borrower is slave to the lender!
Use to use a 16lb maul to move sheer walls back in or out.
I built a 550 sqft detached garage at my Denver house by myself. I only had help with the monolithic slab and the trusses.
But when I was finally getting to installing the siding on the gable end (on the alley side) the end truss was about 4” out on top. It was impossible to fix correctly at that point by because of blocking, bracing and 2 layers of 15/32 roof sheathing and shingles. But I couldn’t leave it that way. I ended up blocking out the bottom before sheathing/siding and creating a ledge/shelf above the garage door. It killed me knowing it was there. Just something that was overlooked or maybe it looked straight when me and my buddies were stacking the trusses. Luckily the inspector didn’t go to the alley side during the framing inspection.
That's the code!
I was going to mention stairwells being an exceptionally problematic area for pick-up (punch-out) work, in your last video, on the other channel, but got sidetracked onto something else. So right!!
One of the greatest things about building with wood is the ability to ‘fix’ problems that come up. It’s almost as ‘moldable’ as clay. If you happen to be building with concrete or even partially concrete, make sure your builder pays extra attention to the plane between floors, in the stairwells. Concrete is exceptionally unforgiving in this respect. Rather than having the luxury of using a power plane to remove some unwanted ‘bulging’ wood, you now have to resort to a chipping hammer. But don’t think you can just chip away the offending concrete bulge. Typically you will encounter the reinforcing steel, in the concrete within ¾” of an inch! Now you’ve got real problems ($$). Give the stairwells extra attention during the build.
Nate when are you going to have your brothers on the show. If you have sisters I'm sure that would be interesting, seriously Nate's siblings we'd sure like to meet you
Hello Scott and Nate. First, I've been watching all of the videos, both on EC2 and the original EC and really enjoy them. I was wondering, with all of your knowledge and experience, if you ever considered doing instructional videos for beginners? Thanks for all you do and keep up the good work.
Have you seen the crazy framer work on TH-cam?
Ive been following your build with interest since the start. Back in Ep78 you put the Roof Shingles on. Can I ask a question? As you worked your way up the pitch on each surface, I was curious to see you still nailing the ToeBoards onto the new shingled roof. Does this not cause holes for potential leaks through the brand new roof? Because of your amazing attention to detail & your superb skills, I assume that maybe the tar in the shingles might 'self heal' but I am genuinely interested to get your take on this, thanks. We generally don't see roof shingles used here in Australia, so whilst I have done a few building projects, I have no experience with this type of roof cladding. Just FYI we generally see tiles (concrete & fired clay) & metal sheet (Galvanised Corrugated Iron or Colourbond plus other profiles with various commercial names).
Thanks again for your series.
Cheers from Oz. Tony
Tony, the brackets that hold the toe boards are nailed on top of the upper part of the shingle that gets covered by the next course of shingles. The nail holes in the brackets are shaped like an upside down key hole so that after the toe boards get taken off the bracket can be tapped toward the ridge and unhooked from the nails. On rare occasions one of these nails will cause a problem down the road.
@@janderson8401 thanks for the explanation. That makes sense. So after the bracket comes off, the nail is hammered home, not pulled out?
@@tonyurquhart8278 correct. I don't do roofs anymore, but the last ones that I did I would take a piece of the plastic wrapper from a bundle of shingles place it over the bracket so the top shingle didn't get stuck to the one underneath. Made it a bit easier to get at those nails. If you have a full crew so at least one side is done in a day this isn't that important since the bracket is only going to be there for less than a day. If you're working by yourself or if you need to leave the toe boards up to side and trim a dormer it's a good trick yo know.
have you finished and sold house yet. whats next? was inheritance part of ob finance?
Wish I would have used a power plane on the studs in my house.
When I call digsafe they tell me I have 30 days to start the project and 60 days to have it completed, from the time of my phone call to them. Luckily I do only small projects, but I have come close to the deadline a couple times.
I must not have been listening too well when I’ve called them. I don’t recall being warned about having a limited time to complete the job. I can sort of see the thirty days to start since the paint they use to mark the buried utilities does eventually fade and disappear. But once you have started your digging why would they care how long it takes. While common sense isn’t all that common anymore, it does seem to be in one’s own best interest to finish what you’re doing with your excavation as soon as possible and get it backfilled.
Who will do the finish work on the spec house?
been bugging me for some time now......what has happened, or will happen, to the columns on the front porch? Darrell
Probably frame a box around them and stone cladding. That's what we do, have to hold the posts up off the concrete.
Sorry guys....what is stacking????
Stacking is assembling the roof, either installing the trusses or cutting and assembling the rafters.
The distinction in terminology is made so that there is no confusion between the term “roofing” and “stacking”. Roofing, being the actually dry-in and permanent, visible layer of the roof as opposed to the building of the structure which is stacking.
“Stacking” is not a term used around my area (FL) either. It’s just referred to as the roof structure or roof trusses since trusses are far and away the most common practice.
Setting trusses pretty much
Rolling joists, trusses, thus the name stacking (stacking roofs) for multistory buildings usually 3- 7 floors… only applies to wood framing I believe .. I believe it’s the top of the chain of piecework
Straighten walls