I Bought a Hyundai for $300...and it STALLS (Happy New Year! -Part 1)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- My neighbor had this 2006 Hyundai Tucson AWD sitting in his driveway for over a year...
Recently I noticed a sign in the window "$500 OBO NEEDS WORK". hmmmm
Well it starts and runs...half the time. Sometimes it just STALLS out!
Can we get it running NO PARTS REQUIRED and save this Hyundai from the CRUSHER?
With 225k miles on the clock this could take some work...
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HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Ivan
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Ivan's reaction when he said "crank no start, that's interesting!" perfectly encapsulates his attitude.
Priceless.
I still have a points file in my old toolbox that I still use occasionally for something. They come in handy at times. Also still have the dwell meter for adjusting the points dwell and a timing light. Also found an old oil can spout that you would shove into the top of an oil can to pour the oil out. Am I showing my age yet? 😂
Alright Ivan! Great diagnosis and tutorial demonstration. Also good to see a real "fix" and not just a parts swap. You educated the viewers by opening up the relay and showing how the relays work and how they can fail. This is very helpful for complete understanding of electronic systems. Not many schools go into this level of instruction. Bravo!
@VPI Mike, yea I had a relay fail like that, except it looked a bit worse under the cap. Still, you'd think that manufacturers would do a better job at protecting these connections/components. That fuse box is sitting in a corner where moisture/debris accumulates and the plastic box has no seals of any kind and no doubt the underside is open to moisture. In one of my vehicles I noticed relays and fuses actually backing out of their slots. It's insane that manufacturers put so little thought into the design of these "integrated power modules".
Agree on dish & tutorial …..but is this really a fix?
Relay should be replaced to fix … green crusty’s will return…you can’t stop corrosion. Same with fuse box…crusty terminal was cleaned to get vehicle running…crusty’s will return. The terminal and/or fuse box should be replaced.
@@zenithperigee7442 It all comes down to money .In earlier years the main fuse box was in the cabin but a few cents on a million cars all adds up & the manufacturers really don't care about the end user.
@@diyeveryday67 If some diaelectric grease is used the problem should not return quickly.
@@diyeveryday67 You would most likely not be able to get those parts new anymore !!
That little file reminds me of my "points" file ... for cleaning the contacts of the points back when distributors had that setup. After doing that, it was time to get the dwell meter to adjust the dwell angle. I know, I'm aging myself.
After reading your comment, I went to my tool box and guess what, my points cleaning file is still there.
I don't know what ever happened to my points file...probably in a box somewhere next to my timing light... :) Bunch of us here aren't so young.
@@dchirsch Yeah we old retired spanner spinners live vicarsually through the guys on YT.
I keep saying, capacitor discharge is as far as they needed to go.
I bought a set of those terminal cleaners through Amazon (paid a little extra for quality… hopefully😂) before the video was even done! Can’t count the number of times those could have come in handy had I known of them! Always take things away from these videos. Thanks Ivan (and viewer for the donation)! Nice diag BTW👍✌️
Up until seeing them I glued some 1500 wet & dry to a pair of tweezers that came in my computer screwdriver tool kit.
@@LesReeves lol! Nice
Ivan, i've been watching for the last three years, keep up the great work and the informative vids, watching you go through your diagnostic process takes me back to my Dad when he was a Master Mechanic/Foreman in a UK for Vauxhall/GM. He would be called into all of the "iffy" jobs no-one else could solve just like you...happy memories :-) Happy New Year
The last elderly Turkish mechanic I worked for was also a qualified Engineer & he taught me more in the 3/4 years than all my years elsewhere he was so knowelable it was really fun to go to work.
I was expecting you to find the problem was an ant nest in the fuse box when I saw them running around next to it 😀.
Will be waiting for the next installment on the Hyundai repairs.
Happy Holidays
High-current switch and relay contacts are usually silver plated to prevent contact welding during make/break. As the contacts try to separate, a spark forms between them (with an inductive load such as a starter solenoid). Cleaning the contacts may mean scraping off the silver. But I bet you keep a jumper wire in the glovebox and you can just pull the relay if it sticks and jumper it to start :)
salvage yards gladly sell the fuse box and contents for about 30 bucks. that's a part they usually don't sell.
@@edwardjames6070 But then it wouldn't be "no parts required"!!
Nice reminder about contact finishes! Keeps in mind that there’s a time and a place for things🙂👍
I use a bit of card stock soaked in deoxit for my relay cleaning. I restore old radios and transmitters and most of the relays are silver or palladium plated. Gentle first.
@@ne2i Interesting! Do old relays have thicker plating than new ones? That might be a factor, too.
You can find those terminal cleaners on Amazon.
Innovative Products 8040 3-Piece Diamond Grip Terminal Cleaner Set a.co/d/4pskEvT
Happy New Year Ivan and family keep up the great work 🎉
Ivan is the only guy that buys a car and is more happy when it breaks down. :)
🤣
You have to be careful when cleaning contacts because they are rounded in shape to dissipate arching and if you flatten them then the contacts could weld themselves together. Yea you can get things working but bad things can happen even in low power applications.
The contact cleaner / filing tweezers tool looks useful. Amazon calls it "Terminal Cleaning Tool" and sells them in sets of 3. Perhaps you could add it to your PHAD Amazon store.
What's the link?
Just bought a set for myself.
bought my 87' honda civic for $500 (20 years ago), went through 2 whole sets of tires (8 tires) starter and alternator ($1000 of parts) and then front end alignment, it ran like a tank (a slow one at that) and would still be running if i hadnt sold it
The guy was lying about the oil. Changing it annually and having to add because it was burning it, it would never turn to sludge . . . Did you check the VIN history?
If you want to do a _super_ good job you could put a new terminal on the corroded contact. That fusebox is literally just wires and terminals, there's no PCB or fancy nonsense in it.
Happy New Year, everyone.
Thank you, Ivan, for all your hard work and sharing your knowledge with us.
Nice work again Ivan. Maybe some sugar on the contacts would clean them right up.🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜lol
From Mercedes to Porsche to Maserati to Hyundai...The background soundtrack of crickets was appropriate for this one. I learn something on every video..way to stay with it. I would have went for a new relay but would have wasted my money. My family is from eastern Europe they would have done the same thing.
These older Hyundai's and older Kia's are still good vehicles to purchase, because the newer ones with GDI technology are not that great. Most of the newer models had numerous recalls and numerous amount of problems. The older models are the best, ever.
generally speaking GDI is not so good
@@edwardjames6070 Agreed
Yep we have a 2005 Tucson with 160k miles, great vehicle!
Gdi is engineered obsolescence
Ivan, due to the age of the vehicle, you would just swap out the relay. If you look at the contacts under a zoom stereo microscope they will be pitted and / or corroded, and relays are not that expensive.
But, if you insist on cleaning the relay power contacts to have zero parts repair you can do this very effectively using a zoom stereo microscope. The process is more than filing the contact surface. Like any metal polishing you start with a relatively course cleaning surface and then move to finer and finer grit. I like the emery cloth assortment you can get on amazon which has the following grits: 150, 240, 320, 400 and 600. If you want to do both surfaces at the same time just fold over the emery cloth.
I find that if you use Deoxit D5 spray as your polishing oil, like you used in the video, and you do a three step polish like 240, 400 and finally 600 grit, the pill shaped contact surfaces will be very smooth and shiny with a little of the plating removed. With a zoom stereo microscope you can make the surface very uniform and even. Before reassembling the relay you can put Grote Ultra Seal contact sealer around where the connection tabs come through the plastic. This will prevent moisture from wicking up the tab. Also, put Deoxit D100L - 2DB, in the little brush bottle, on the contacts before reassembly. The refurbished relay will work for many years to come, I know this because I have cleaned contacts on my own vehicle and have excellent results. But, if this was a customer repair, which I have to provide a warranty, I would just install a new relay.
I have a very good assortment of new relays from Hella and TE in sizes ISO and Domestic micro, mini and high power with either the coil suppression resistor, diode or nothing at all and in the 4 or 5 connection tab style. I have a good mix and match of types which is less than 70 pieces total. There are some relays I do not have like duals and other special types, but having a basic assortment is usually good for the majority of relay problems.
Happy New Year to you and your family Ivan. Regarding the corrosion in your relay situation, it's not uncommon to have it go down into the wire crimp and rot the wire off or up into the relay and damage the contacts as you found out.
I learned auto diagnostics when I was a kid back in the 1970's and never paid more than $500.00 for a car since... some were free and in fact I actually got offered money to take some cars away. Usually, all I had to do is tell the people that I would give their old car a new home and a new life... If the car was good, most people really appreciate that. They would rather give or sell their old reliable than to see it crushed.
To be honest, most cars needed some work, but over the decades, I've saved tens of thousands of dollars on new cars and I only screwed up once... a 1979 Cordoba with a lean burn engine, never got that one to stop overheating and eating transmissions. I put $600.00 in, cut my losses and got a few hundred back from "Car Cash".
Ivan needs to add Ant & Roach spray to his arsenal of tools or he'll never get ALL the bugs out of that car! 😂
As a former manufacturing engineer at a hi-rel military relay plant, burnishing gold plated contacts gently will work for a while. But once the gold plated contacts are compromised, the longevity drops sharply especially in unsealed enclosures. Also, substances like cardboard, which contains sulfur, is deadly for relay contacts.
All you need now is ant killer.
Just curious why not buy a new relay or two? Seems like you spent a lot more time working on the relay then it was worth?
Did the ants come for free? Should train them to use some Scotch Brite and clean those terminals for you.
I have a 2005 santa fe 3.5 and it has never failed to start and get me there. those 2.7 engines are good too, as far as I have seen. I change the oil every 3000 miles. I add ground straps from body to engine and body to battery negative first thing.
You are alot like me. I try to fix a part before buying a new one. Good job.
Ivan. Just a comment about cleaning rely contacts. A "hundred year ago," :-) I worked some ancient USAF H.F. Receiver-Transmitters. They even had some vacuum tubes installed - mainly in the RF and Power Out sections.
There was a BIG stash of relays mounted on one end of the unit. The technical data for these RT's, in bold letters, said: "Do not burnish these relay contacts." Reason is, the contacts, originally, had a gold or sliver "flash" coating that really helped then conduct.
Our techs used to burnish the contacts to clean them ,(this would remove the flash coating), however, just a few hours of use in an aircraft and they were back on the bench. (There was always a slight arcing as the contacts opened and closed.- no capacitors were used to absorb that arcing.
You could burnish those contact again, and again, but the problem would return. Had to R&'R the relay - a big pain in the butt. Lots of soldering in hard to get to places. :-) Just wanted to pass that on. Sign me, "a loyal follower."
That's why I swapped it with the starter relay which is only momentarily energized 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics That was a great idea - I forgot you mentioned that. Thanks.
I love this generation of Hyundai, my first car was a 2005 Hyundai Elantra and I loved that car.
darn good car
What an amazing purchase. It's surprisingly rust free given its age, mileage and where it's lived its whole life. Hopefully you kept it, since a 4wd with good winter tires would have been handy last week with that crazy blizzard if you got it where you are.
I can't tell you how many times I've re serviced old relays back to working status using DeoxIt 5. Might be a good idea to remove every component one by one and ensure each contact is properly cleaned. It is a good idea on vintage cars especially in the rust belt.
I have a set of those abrasive tipped tweezers. I got them from Mac tools over 10 years ago. I remember asking him for a set of points files and he gave me those instead. I couldn't believe it, but they work fantastic. But yeah, classic no dollar fix for a very common problem. Nice work Ivan!
I thought it was funny to see the Ants working as you are working😄
That Pico scope is a super useful tool.
I'm a huge fan upon seeing a Trump 2020 sign in your garage
Oh and off topic but several years ago I had a realization of why cars parked on grass rust so much faster.
Rust needs ferrous metal,oxygen and moisture.
The realization was that plants breath in CO2 and breath out pure oxygen-much more potent fuel for oxidation than the atmosphere.
Don't park over plants.
that's good advice
Crank no-start!?!
That's our favorite!
Hope you and yours have a very happy new year Ivan ,and the weather hasn't been too dreadful for you.
I wish you all the best for the new year and I wish you was my neighbour I just sold my car to the dealership who wanted 2500 British pounds to replace all of the modules in the car which turns out more than the car is worth on the selling marketplace up shot of it is the car's beyond economic repair for me and the shop didn't say what the problem was that put the ECU BSI BSM etc went into orbit. Thanks again for your contribution to world of cars.
Love those contact tweezers. Years ago I was told once you file off or the corrosion removes the surface plating on contacts, the hardness is now gone and they will eventually "arc" and build up debris then fail early. This was in the day of ignition points that the story was told. Depending on the direction of the repair, it's likely best to replace those for the long haul especially when they are easy to get to and price is very low. Contacts have a hard plating on them and once its gone...failure sets in.
Two oil & filter changes sound reasonable based on how the previous owner maintained it. I'd check all of the fluids and replace them except for the transmission fluid unless there is evidence that fluid was change at least two times before.
V6, 4x4, 4 door and overall size of this car seems fairly reasonable as an all season utilitarian vehicle.
Over 40 years ago, I once traced a no crank, in below freezing weather to an ICE CRYSTAL between the points of a 1979 Dodge B100 Van starter relay, which resided on the exterior driver's firewall. I have NEVER seen another fault like that since! A ONE OFF 🙂
Hyundai dealer would quote customer for new engine, trans, brakes, wiring harness...
Ivan quotes 'we'll try to fix it with no parts required'
Same time the coil can't close the relay as the distance are just a hair too big but that can be adjusted by bending the tap a little bit
So now you have a relaxing job at hand. Not as the M’rati.
The very best wishes from the Netherlands to you and your loved ones.
Bought a 2017 Elantra when nearly new. My son now owns, over 100,000 miles, zero problems apart from failed ignition coil, $80 fix. Has the 2 liter Atkinson cycle engine, incredible gas mileage and drives really well. I have no reason to think it will not go another 100,000 miles. Probably jinxed it now 😂
If it's direct injected, reliability sharply falls after 100k miles 😅👍
the 2001 to 2005 elantra was a good car.
That was a similar problem in my great uncles stepdaughters 1997 model Ford EL Falcon (Australian made),the problem wax caused by an aftermarket engine immobilizer / car alarm so I just bypassed it & wired the ignition positive supply back to how Ford originally had it,it was connected in series with the ignition switch !
My aunt had this same model car. Hers did this same thing. Took me awhile to find it but it turned out to be a rotted connector on the relay. Changed the female side of the connection and problem solved. I should've watched the whole video before I commented. Since you found exactly what i did.
If you have the opportunity it might be worth lifting that junction box and changing that terminal- don’t want it letting you down again
Bonus !! You ended up with an ant farm as well !!
🤣 They were inside the car too!
I have fixed a few of those as well. Usually the corrosion is extensive with the wiring going to the fuse block. Last one got a remote relay wired up and attached to the side of the fuse block
My mom has a kia sorento with 3.3v6. I did the head gaskets on it 1 1/2 years ago. Almost every head bolt stripped. Its a thing with those cars. Had to put helicoils in every hole. Yesterday i had to put an oil sender in it. Its under the intake manifold. I know this is a different car but want you to be aware what your in for if you ever have to do head gaskets on one.
Edit one more thing, the whole engine has very weak aluminum. Even had some water pump bolts strip and im not an over tighten kind of guy.
you didn't say what year. all companies are making cars crappier and harder to work on.
@@edwardjames6070 2016. I know that 3.3 is used in kia and Hyundai
@@libertyforamericanow 2016 3.3 GDI?? How many miles? Watch out for sheared cam phaser pins and failed stuck-open injectors after 100k miles...JUNK!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics i think it was 150000 ish. Totally neglected on oil changes by the looks inside the engine. Caked up bad. Been doing ok knock on wood cause mom cant afford a new car.
Also the leaking oil sender looked like a rear main seal leak.
As the relay pin had green on it, i would want to pull the fusebox up and check the wire feeding that relay pin.
Hidden wire death.
pulling the fusebox is a 30 minute job. all cars have fusebox issues these days. that car is a new jersey car. the underside looked surprisingly good.
I actual did off camera... Looked clean except that one terminal 👍😎
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Smashing, and hopefully the new owner will take care of it well :-D
I have a "Modern classic" Rover 75 diesel sedan (made under BMW ownership) that used to have a CNS issue sometimes after refueling or a short run. People were advising that the fuel pumps were shot (both new), the ECU had a brain fart, etc. I checked the fuel pump fuse and all was good, but I couldn't hear the pumps running. I wiggled the relays in the powerbarn and the pumps started working again. At this point, I knew it would start and it narrowed it down to a sticking/ defective relay.
I inspected the relay and it had the green crusty. The PCB was corrosion-free, so I'm guessing that the relay allowed some condensation in and just went bad over time (The car is 21 years old). I replaced the important relays and she's been behaving ever since. Had I followed the internet's advice I'd be out of pocket.
well worst case scenario the cat would cover the price, but we all know this won't do. Love your work Ivan.
New channel coming in 2023... Ivan presents " Field of Cars"....if you fix it, they will come.
What about those ants? lol
I dig your tutorials.. just a observation.. look at your diag. Wiring. Show the folks. How to cut system in half. Remember the folks dont have scopes. Or big money scanners.
Great video. The Innovative Products 8040 3-Piece Diamond Grip Terminal Cleaner Set is available on Amazon.
Tweezers- Innovative Products of America, lots of connector cleaners. NO-OX-ID connector anti-oxidation compound works even on salt water boats. Keep up the good work Ivan!
Ivan, I had the same exact problem, same car, about 3-4 yrs. ago ! Terminals were so rotten inside fuse box, remote wired a new relay outside of the fuse panel ! Customer of coarse was very pleased, minor parts required & I was the third garage to fix the crank no start ! Mine of coarse repaired her issue ! Nice video, jogged my memory ! LOL
I fixed one of these that would stall when turn signal turned on. Tracked down to add on aftermarket wiring at ignition. Someone cut a 12ga wire and cut it. Ran wire to whatever device was and back. Someone had cut those wires and wife nutted them. They were like 16 and 18 gauge and corroded. I'm sure that's probably not your issue but I think it was the same code.
Guess I'm wondering how the socket plastic melted some but NOT the relay case. There's contamination BOTH inside the relay and in the socket? Seems, maybe, there's still some excess current flow? Perhsps? Interesting!!
While you give your location as State College, PA you actually live in Pennsylvania Furnace. Now, while I think that would be a wonderful place to live (just the scenery around your house is beautiful) there aren't likely that many people that live there. I would think that your neighbors would know about you and your work. (I'll bet this neighbor does now!) I would have brought the car to you and at least got a diagnosis. You can't beat "no parts required." Great video!
Certainly worth the $300.00 but with 200,000 miles might be hard to sell quickly? Hard to believe they let it run dry on oil and fortunately no engine damage though. I worked at a garage MANY years and 30/87 were connected to the fuel pump running, we used to run a jumper wire from 30 to 87 to see the results, my electrical troubleshooting left plenty to be desired, i think 30 was the power side?
That will make a nice winter beater for someone with a nice summer only vehicle who doesn't want to drive their Camaro in the bad months.
When you were out in the rain and it was still messing up after you cleaned the connector, I was screaming at my screen to "swap with your other relay" lol... Which you did do eventually. Very cool that you could take them apart like that. My only question is: I wonder why it was corroding in the first place? Is maybe the hood dripping water there, or possibly the tire splashing water underneath? I guess maybe just the loose connector corroded just like a loose battery post? I'm not real privy to understanding why things corrode if there's no water. Electricity is easy to understand, electro chemical reactions -- not so much.. What a find though... Should be a sweet little $1200 car for someone. 4x your money.
There is moisture in the air.
Next to the inner fender under the hood gap. My money is on water intrusion.
@@larrybe2900 I understand that-- but it doesn't explain why only one connection corrodes, and not all the others.
A lot of moisture gets at that fusebox...it isn't exactly a sealed location...add salt from winter roads and decades of getting sprayed ( the amount of moisture getting moved around under your hood is not abnormal )... your not parking it only..so your hood is not protecting it once you start driving......
That new Infra Bill just rammed through, All new cars 2026 to have shut off switches AKA K switches put on. In detection if you drive erratic. You know who voted that one. Research it. Keep those old cars on the road.
I’ve bought 4 VW MK4 variants just to keep them from being parted out so I know what you mean
These are the terminal cleaners that Ivan has they look the same anyway Sealey VS9202 Diamond Grip Terminal Cleaner Set, 3 Pieces , Red on Amazon.
Animal rights activists are going to be all over you for stressing out those ants ... Car is obviously junk, I'll take it off your hands for $275 and I'll keep my mouth shut about those ants
Just some advise about those old relays. I used to find relays in that condition all the tine back in the early 1970's. To refurbish after cleaning the contact surfaces inside the relay we applied OX-Guard all over the contacts and the copper rails. Then we sealed the cover on with aquarium sealer to keep vapors and moisture out of the relay. You should do that to all of the relays in that car unless you want to be repairing it a lot.
You should not have any problem with those relays from corrosion ever again. Never seal a relay with with RTV that has that vinegar acid smell. Those vapors will damage the inside of the relay over time.
I am still enjoying your videos. I look forward to many more. Happy New Year!
Oh man you a sucker for a problem lol .
cheap beater for someone and it fairly usable wagon .
300 bucks is small price for some new years fun lol, and don't come across the 500 buck and under worthwhile gambles often these days ...
Have fun and a good new year to you and the lovely boss ...
I bought a set of 3 of those terminal cleaners through NAPA. Could have gotten cheaper through Amazon, but NAPA got them next day,no extra charge and I needed them ASAP. The rivet is tight, but not so tight that I can pivot the two parts away which lets me use them on fuse box terminals.
Hello , ANYONE here in southern CT who can diagnose chevy express 97
It is not really normal to hear the term "money shot" when watching a car diagnosis video......... Kinda weird
Good job tracking down the issue....... Buy your neighbor something nice and tell them it took a long time to diagnose.
I'd check under the fusebox for more nasty green stuff..and whether it goes farther into those wires..plus check for Rodent chewing damage too? Worth the time to look deeper and fix anything you might miss...
Good Diagnose. Given the age and corrosion, I'd change both those relays for reliability reasons. That relay output contact and it's socket in the relay box look like they got hot to overheated and have that rust color on them. Once they overheat, they will give intermittent problems.
Had an intermittent problem on a Ford Van that turned out to be the plug in connector and the Inertia Switch for the fuel pump. The output connector side of the Inertia Switch and it's plug in connector both overheated from a bad fuel pump. The night shift tech replaced the pump and pump relay with OEM parts, but didn't check the Inertia Switch contacts. And there started the intermittent engine stall while driving. I finally found it.
On relays that I’ve messed with pin 30 is the power feed, pin 87 is normally open, and pin 87a is normally closed.
Your helper-ants are hilarious. Next video "how to bug-bomb a vehicle"....
Nice save , And always Great Content is why everyone should subscribe 💯 👍🇺🇸.
Looking forward to part 2. Roadkill 2.0.
same here
Just an fyi, when you have a part 1 & part 2, keep the preceding title the same. Part 1 says car stalls and pt 2 says runs lean, giving the impression of two different cases or cars.
personally I am amazed that someone got 225K miles on a hyundai, I would not spend anything on trying to resusitate such a vehicle unless it were for a speical learning/teaching project or something similar.
As you worked I noticed Carpenter Ants on the fender. These ants commonly nest in machinery. Our dishwasher started acting up. We had been noticing the occasional ant in the kitchen. When I disassembled the dishwasher door where the control board was located I found a colony of Carpenter Ants living on the circuit board. Although not related to the problem here,, I can imagine Carpenter Ants causing an automotive electrical problem.
Battery switch nor solenoid on my CAT excavator 3406 diesel 800 amp crank cold starting no silver plating on them?
I rebuilt hundreds of starter s solenoid s never saw silver on any contact on high amp switches ?
Only in small high cycle relay contacts I saw silver plating .
HYUNDAI actually good cars.
V6 had rubber timing belts and hydraulic tensioner issues though.
There's a farmer where I live and has that jeep in black with the 2.2 CRDI they look like they're pretty good off road
You did a favour to envoirment by saving this car from scrap.each car cost a huge damage to envoirment by collecting materials and resources from earth by its manufacturing.great choice. Cheers
Why do we all (or most of us ) clean an electrical component & then blow on it putting moisture back in there seems counter productive because moisture was the problem to start off with? LOL.
From what I seen of that car, it looks in good shape for a [06] PA car, so a 4x4 car in good shape is definitely worth saving for under 1k. Wonder why owner didn't have you fix it before putting it up for sale........
Fire the Parts Cannon! Go buy a cheap Chinese Relay!!! Happy New Year Ivan!
Pitted contacts and filing will increase distance between contacts and increase the required current on the control lead to pull in contacts....hopefully enough.Would replace relay anyway
Снимай блок предохранителей, он отгнил с обратной стороны. Это стандартная неисправность этих моделей.
My Dad had the inline 4 CRD version of this, had an intermittent crank no start issue that we never managed to resolve (a squirt of brake cleaner in the intake was the only way to get it going), eventually got rid of it and got a used Merc ML.
Regardless of issues, it's still a great find. Can't find anything like that in NJ. Definitely been looking.
250K miles ? G\Very close to a top end valve and timing chain (second one?).
A nice little runaround if it runs and drives OK to give to sum one who is down on the luck happy new year to everyone
Diamond-Tip Electrical Terminal Cleaners Zoro and Amazon sells sets of these ...
Nice job keeping the hyundai on the road. They are really great cars and easy to work on, you just have to keep oil in the motor because they tend to burn oil. I just run about 40 percent Lucas and regular engine weight oil in mine and it stops the oil burning in its tracks.
Have you tried just going up one weight of oil, instead of the Lucas? As long as you're not in Canada, it shouldn't have any problems doing that.
@Troy Belding yea I tried all kinds of things before I landed on the solution with the Lucas. Thanks for asking I appreciate it. And just cause it worked for my 2.4L doesn't mean it'll work for everyone.
Only the GDI models and 2019 and up seem to have nipped that in the bud. Their early-mid 2000s motors were rock solid if taken care of and didn't eat oil anymore than your average Toyota.
I'd suggest keeping it for a loaner car. If you only have the 1 loaner then a second would help on those big jobs.