Great tip. Electrical boxes that accommodate wiring and meet code requirements are essential to safely connect and power today and tomorrow’s home technology.
While tracing a run on a 277VAC lighting circuit I took the cover off a 6x6 metallic box and a red wire nut rolls out. The immediate action was to let go with my left arm and I thought, 'freeze'. We were up 30 foot on a Genie, the second thought was 'this is going to hurt'. My partner asked if that was a wire nut and shifted his weight to look down at the floor. Yea, my right arm was sore for an hour or two. After the manufacturing plant's shift knocked off and we were able to power down, I went back up to assess the damage. Looking into the box you could not see any metal inside the box. It was crammed FULL, must have used a hydraulic press to get the lid secured. No damage but scary.
I was shocked by 277 in a similar manner while working on a lighting circuit. When I got back down, I just left and went home. My entire arm and shoulder was killing me for the next two days. Felt like Chuck Norris kicked me in my shoulder. 😂
Jesus. I was hit by 277 from a shared neutral and working fast with a lapse of judgment. my arm tingled for a few hours, and my legs were weak. also, on my old F150 only way to kill the engine was to pull the rotor wire.. chest leaning over the fender and grounded myself out. my sternum hurt for days after that. 🫥
Love this channel. When I do side work for friends and family (especially my father in law) I can show them a video that explains why I cannot do it the way they want or use the materials they bought from their local home center. My FiL loves to say, “it works so what’s the difference?” And I have to explain code to him. The videos usually explain things much better than I can.
Great informative video. The one tip I would add to this is for the side panel shallow boxes: Once you close the side panel cover and cover it with drywall, you can't open it again. So if you ever needed to branch off of that box somewhere else, you need to have accessible holes to run new NM cable. You can't reach into the side panel to do that, so you need the holes in the open area to be available for future access. So always run the original wiring to the side panel so they are out of the way, AND it leaves the access holes in the main box accessible. Just a best practices tip to make smart use of the material.
After many, many years of roughing in homes the only boxes I will use are the Carlon super blue boxes! They are well worth any additional cost because they will hold up to the weight of sheet rock and sloppy cuts by the installers. I think Carlon should offer only the super blue boxes. They hold up so much better! Love your channel!!
this type of information is needed so badly. Thanks you for giving your expertise to some of the DIYers out here. Your are an excellent dude. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I really like those adjustable boxes. They're so handy when you have additional material after sheet rock to work with. Ex. Tile, cabinets, wood paneling.
@@ElectricianU Hey Dustin can you do a video explaining why some electricians are considered mechanics like is that something different than a journeyman or master?
My new favorite channel next to Mentour Pilot. I’m currently studying for my Residential Wireman so this channel is incredibly helpful. Really appreciate the knowledge share!
I did a bunch of old work boxes, I did not want to do the drywall mount boxes as i don't trust drywall that much. I looked around big box home store has the normal basic things. Went to electric supply place and found these Arlington boxes that screw to the stud and you can slide in and out to get flush. Some i had to shim, adjust due to defects in the stud, etc but I like that idea a lot more than a box hung only on drywall.
This is why my lighting circuits are on their own 15A breaker with #14. Gives more room for all the switch legs and easier to put the wires in the box. Receptacle circuit are 20A with #12. If you pop a breaker on the receptacle circuit your are not left in the dark!
Go bigger when possible for new/old work. I just wired garage with 1/2” EMT/12 gage THHN. I got the deeper 2.25” metal handiboxes to clear the nuts of EMT fittings. Worked well except I needed a wider box for GFCI outlet. Best to check this when planning & buying materials. As always great information you provide.
Some thoughts. 1. On a typical residential job, using the higher quality/capacity materials usually only adds a couple hundred dollars. Just about every homeowner in the world will say "Yea I'll pay a couple hundred more for better quality electrical" 2. Nobody can know the future for sure, however, try to future proof things where logical and also think of those situations that are nice. Do. you have a situation where the calcs come out ok but the box is a prime candidate for being tapped in the future for something else? Maybe you should just go ahead and put in the deeper box now. Future you will appreciate when this is done. My dad used to put gfcis in any outlet within a certain distance of an exterior door because he knew if anyone was going to run an extension cord outside this was where people would likely plug it in. 3. If you are jamming stuff in, just put in the larger box. Seriously, whether it meets code or not.
when i was non union the company i worked for ONLY put adjustables in kitchens. run them out all the way so theres no possible way for the drywall guys to bury it and get tiled over before we come back for trim. then just adjust back to the tile depth if the tile guys didnt do that already and its perfect
Excellent explanation. Thanks for showing us this process and the available options for residential applications. Good to help me DIY it correctly and safely.
good demo here .they are making retro work a bit easier with some of those boxes. the angled screw hole provision to fasten .drywall ears that screw to tighten up against inside sheetrock face. multi fastening provisions on boxes
One of the most informative videos yet! I love using the boxes with multiple mounting options. especially when doing a old work/remodel job and when you're cutting the drywall you hit a stud. Keep up the good work!👍
I use the 24.5in box everywhere I can. I screw the face on until everything is set then I nail and add a screw in the side. Then cut off the face tab with a oscillating saw. I just found some 4” round boxes on Home Depot that use a 3-3/4 “ hole and just pop right in without having to saw for the old work ears. Great for smoke detectors and basic light fixtures.
Wood in direct contact with concrete (as you showed in your studio wall) should be pressure treated or wood of natural resistance to decay. Metal spacers between the studs and the wall are also appropriate.
Here in the Chicago area, we install all 1900 boxes with the appropriate mud ring. All conduit and stranded conductors. Never really have to worry about box fill or running grounds since its all accounted for
I used those adjustable boxes when doing all the soundproofing as the drywall was on hat channel on sound clips and the drywall was 1 1/4" thick (two sheets). Even then had to add a wood peice to extend what to attach the extension box to. Would have had to use surface mounts without those and that wouldn't have been great for sound as I couldn't seal them with putty pads.
LOVE the deep boxes! Wish they were required, by code (if in a standard 2x4 wall) to be able to touch to touch the back of the opposing wall's drywall. Or required by code, that in a standard wall, the box be the kind that can be adjustable. That would help in forcing the prices down.
I have an home automation system running, and those deep boxes are nice for the extra space for the radio electronics of the switch or receptacle to communicate with the hub.
God I love how you provide in depth technical knowledge that fully wraps the subject up nicely; outstanding!! What about "pigtails". If pigtails are used as a general good practice, then in the circuit you describe, wouldn't there be white (1) and a black (2) pigtail, thus adding 4.5 more cubic inches to the volume???
Thanks for your interesting videos. My house was built in 1976. Not only do I have aluminum wiring, but I have 2x3 inch interior walls. I was young when I bought this house, and I had no idea about the wiring or the wall thickness. Of course, the exterior walls are 2 x 4 and insulated well. Overall, the house is nice, but installing electrical boxes is a real pain, and the wires running through the studs are a bit more succeptible to damage from screws/nails. I have updated most connections in the boxes with Alumiconn connectors, which i torqued as recommended, so I have no aluminum wires connected directly to switches or receptacles. I have had a few incidences of burned/melted connections, but no fires. I discovered that in the boxes in the 20 amp circuits that upon looking at the wires, thinking they were copper, I was surprised to see that the center core of those wires was aluminum. I haven't had any problems with those copper clad wires. I have used a number of those shallow plastic boxes (single gang, double, triple) as the alumiconns take up a bit more space, so even if I needed a single, I may have to go to a double to have enough room, them cover half with a blank plate.
Installed over 40 wall cases in my own house over many years split almost evenly with new work & old work. All are real deal dependable bullet proof metal boxes. Would never use a flimsy blue light special in my own house. Always used fiberglass boxes in exterior walls of homes because the 6/32 screw holes never stripped out, easier to seal and had a better fire rating.
I rip out metal boxes whenever I can. jackasses installed them 50+ years ago too deep in the wall, mud ring sitting 1/8 to 1/2 recessed in the wall. wires cut so short , end up chiseling, bashing drywall out to get to mud ring mounting screws. waste more time dicking around with metal boxes and mud rings then I do with the brittle AF ancient bakelight garbage boxes
We appreciate your feedback to help improve and expand our products! We extensively test authentic Carlon® Blue™ electrical solutions in certified labs and in the field to ensure quick and easy installation, code compliance and reliability.
Great video with lots of info...Thank you! Wondering why you didn't mention that inside the box has the number of conductors allowed? Is the box info not accurate?
I have used the boxes with metal tabs on metal/wood studs. However, one needs to pay attention and not screw drywall close to the tab because the metal tab creates a bump behind the drywall and could crack the drywall, in addition to seeing the bump on the drywall. So, one may need to shave the drywall or shave the wood stud to make it flat (i.e., eliminate the tab and its screws thickness).
Question- what is typical for the final inspection on a residential job. Jumping power from temporary service, using generator power or something else? Thanks for your input.
Do the wire nuts add into the space reduction? Do Wago take up less space? Fantastic break down. Never knew about the tabs inside the box taking space.
Alot of time you need a deep one!😂 seriously when you are installing a GFCI or a dimmer they come in handy! I use the deep ones for kitchen counter GFCIs and bathrooms when I'm doing a rough in.
Hey Dustin Video suggestion. I am looking for a video that explains how to hang a main panel, sub panel, breaker box. Everyone explains how to wire a panel. But no one explains how a panel should be hung. Indoor/outdoor. Water tight/non-watertight. Pvc/emt. Unistut. What is code for hanging a panel?
You forget to mention with the low voltage box rings that they are often used for phone/data and coaxial cable TV wires. Ive installed them in homes many times for that.
Been out of the biz 5 years now - retired after 47 years, no new code books on hand. Was wondering if, as you showed, 2 devices with massive differences in physical size, if they ever made it so each device needs to have its volume listed now for box fill. Was mentioned years ago, but never addressed in past. Also, something most young kids are not taught at all.1st journey man handed me 2 device boxes (steel), and said, "Figure out how to turn these into a2 gang box ... that's how you can tell a real electrician, from a hack." Useful trick, if you need a 5-gang switch box, and it will take 3 weeks to order it in plastic and will cost $40. Might be a useful video of itself.
I cannot imagine why one would not use the deepest possible box that would fit. In my house from 1938, for single gang switches and receptacles, the original builders mercifully used two gang metal boxes with single gang mud rings. For an addition, they used small handy boxes (and wires cut short) which have been a PITA to deal with.
@@wizard3z868 Actually, my guess is that it back in 1938 it may have had more to do with the transition from lath and plaster to drywall - and a larger amount of old work that was being done. Plaster that squeezes between the lath can take up a good portion of an inch, so fitting deep boxes wasn't always easy. You had more boxes in walls that only had 1 cable going into them, with connections being made in junction boxes in the attic and basement. And at that time the knob and tube installs, that didn't use boxes, weren't that old and were still being added to. And with the smaller loads of the day 14/2 without ground was common - with only 1-2 receptacles per room. Stores had less inventory variety back then and likely focused more on boxes that could be used most often.
Do you have any videos of replacing new work boxes with old work to expand them in depth? Specifically, I have a metal stud/ metal box condo and on a fireplace the box does not sit to the end of the stone and the builder in 2007 thought longer screws were the answer. I also have several switch boxes that do not sit square with the drywall.
You could use a box extender to get it out to the edge of the stone. They have multiple options in design. Some sit at the front edge of the installed box; you buy them based on how much fill you need. Others slip in-between the box and the installed device. Thomas Betts (Carlon) makes the first option and Arlington makes the second option. (Some of the better names rather than random manufacturer). Just search for electrical box extender.
ok, so, this only counts for wires coming in to the box, correct?? example, you said up to 4 grounds can be counted as one. lets say im using a metal box to install a duplex receptacle. i have 2 12/2 going into it. in the actual box, counting only grounds, i have the 2 coming in, i have one screwed in grounding the box (that makes 3) and i have i pigtail ground coming off of each receptacle (2 more, so a total of 5) so this would only count as 2 grounds, and not 5 if im correct?? (and yes, i know the rec .can be considered grounded through the yoke, but some inspectors dont)
Just wondering what the best way to get into an apprenticeship is? I’m in Massachusetts and I really want to make the move to be an electrician but don’t really know which direction to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hello sir! When will you be releasing a video about electricians and renewable energy projects? I’d love hear your thoughts on project management, apprentices and foreman on really long projects, different types of wiring and components, etc.
Hey, a question that was just posed to me, will electricity going down a curve have more resistance because less of their field is overlapping compared to electrons going down a straight path?
14:30 I can’t quite nail down how something like a nema 14-30R fits into this. Does it have 1 yoke because it’s the continuous mounting strap for a single device. Or does it count for 2 yokes because it mounts in a 2 gang?
My company has me installing an equipment with a meanwell 120v AC to to 12v DC. Not in an enclosure and the 120v whip is just secured with the terminal screws on the power supply( I strap the pwr cord next to the P.S. others don’t seems dangerous. Is this legal?
What about fill volume of wire nuts or is that counted with the wire volume. So if three #12 wires are wire nutted is that 7.75 cu. or is it a higher volume?
How common are the plastic boxes in the states? In Canada, I've only ever used metal boxes, for both concrete + steel stud, and wood frame buildings. The plastic ones look pretty cheap and not not as sturdy. The deep ones look handy though. I wonder if they're much cheaper than the metal ones.
Every time I think I can get by with a small box, I wonder if at a future date somebody will want to splice in a line to another device later. It's annoying when you realize that the box you want to tie to needs to be replaced or extended because it can't accommodate a few extra wires and nuts.
The way the wires can be terminated on the device. Especially if it says "Spec grade" somewhere on the device. Some have just a screw. But commercial or "heavy duty" usually have a plate that can be terminated under with out the need for a loop.
If you use conductor equivalents, the math is easier: Device: 2 Cuurent wires: 6 Ground: 1 which totals 9 conductor equivalents, which times 2.25 is 20.25. That's much less multiplication. Too make it even easier, divide the box volume by the conductor volume in advance, write that on the device cartons, and then all you have to do in the field is count. For example, a 20 cubic inch box divided by 2.25 gives 8 and some remainder. You just ignore the remainder and 8 is the limit for that box size.
hate cut in old work boxes with a passion. especially when a TR receptacle is used in one. old people that can barely hold their hand steady trying to plug in a lamp get frustrated , just keep jamming plug against TR till it goes it or the cut in box caves in the wall. had way too many get caved in, ripped out. Id rather open the drywall, scab in a false stud 2 times size of the box, secure false stud to drywall, secure box to false stud. patch the drywall. metal boxes with mud rings are bane of my existent at our complex. overcrowded, wires cut way too short, mud ring recessed too far in the wall. so much fun chiseling out 50+ years of drywall, spackle to get to mud ring mounting screws
What is the reason to not just use the bigger box? I'm assuming it's all about cost? Because theres nothing wrong with using a larger-than-needed box, right?
DUSTIN, What are the Volume Allowances formulas for each box type? I'm not sure what the Volume Allowance formulas are for the different box sizes and types. Can you make a video lesson about this?
The reason they give the cubic inch of the inside of the box is because you are supposed to add up the different wires being installed by the circumference of the wire and type of insulation by its thickness. All that information is in the wire charts section of the code book. Because you aren't always using one size wire in a box so just counting the number of circuits won't give you the correct and legal box fill. You have to use the wire size by gauge and mil circumference and the thickness of the insulation in the calculation. That's why you are supposed to have taken and passed math classes in school before you become an apprentice. We use math all the time as an electrician.
I have a thought for an upcoming episode. Why don't you do one on lockout tag program whether or not electricians should use it do they use it how they use it and what is the proper way to use lockout tag program?
An arc fault afci will detect a break in a hot or neutral wire (series arc). A combination type will detect a break in a series arc and an arc from hot to neutral (parallel arc). AFCI's are generally going to be combination type. Dual function refers to AFCI combination and GFCI protection in one device, it can be a circuit breaker or a receptacle.
Thanks for your detailed information. Most take for granted that everyone knows this but if you are a do it yourself, the problem is found after you make the supply purchase.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I’d love to see one like this with metal boxes, I’ve seen some new and unique ones since I started
I was looking for this comment, thank you, hopefully he sees your request.
I aways install the largest box that fits in the stud cavity just for the idea of future use and for my ease of installation !
Great tip. Electrical boxes that accommodate wiring and meet code requirements are essential to safely connect and power today and tomorrow’s home technology.
While tracing a run on a 277VAC lighting circuit I took the cover off a 6x6 metallic box and a red wire nut rolls out. The immediate action was to let go with my left arm and I thought, 'freeze'. We were up 30 foot on a Genie, the second thought was 'this is going to hurt'. My partner asked if that was a wire nut and shifted his weight to look down at the floor. Yea, my right arm was sore for an hour or two. After the manufacturing plant's shift knocked off and we were able to power down, I went back up to assess the damage. Looking into the box you could not see any metal inside the box. It was crammed FULL, must have used a hydraulic press to get the lid secured. No damage but scary.
I was shocked by 277 in a similar manner while working on a lighting circuit. When I got back down, I just left and went home. My entire arm and shoulder was killing me for the next two days. Felt like Chuck Norris kicked me in my shoulder. 😂
@@Conqueef-tadoorI’m glad your ok, that’s scary AF
I'm surprised you didn't trip the breaker. Was the box ungrounded?
480 volts between your thumb and pinkie finger hurts like heck. Don’t ask how I know.
Jesus. I was hit by 277 from a shared neutral and working fast with a lapse of judgment. my arm tingled for a few hours, and my legs were weak.
also, on my old F150 only way to kill the engine was to pull the rotor wire.. chest leaning over the fender and grounded myself out. my sternum hurt for days after that. 🫥
Love this channel. When I do side work for friends and family (especially my father in law) I can show them a video that explains why I cannot do it the way they want or use the materials they bought from their local home center. My FiL loves to say, “it works so what’s the difference?” And I have to explain code to him. The videos usually explain things much better than I can.
Codes only matter if you're getting an inspection ;)
@@DefinitelyNotSpam Or if there is an accident, fire, etc.
If you can't explain it, you shouldn't be doing it. Period, end of story time junior.
Great informative video. The one tip I would add to this is for the side panel shallow boxes:
Once you close the side panel cover and cover it with drywall, you can't open it again. So if you ever needed to branch off of that box somewhere else, you need to have accessible holes to run new NM cable. You can't reach into the side panel to do that, so you need the holes in the open area to be available for future access. So always run the original wiring to the side panel so they are out of the way, AND it leaves the access holes in the main box accessible. Just a best practices tip to make smart use of the material.
After many, many years of roughing in homes the only boxes I will use are the Carlon super blue boxes! They are well worth any additional cost because they will hold up to the weight of sheet rock and sloppy cuts by the installers. I think Carlon should offer only the super blue boxes. They hold up so much better! Love your channel!!
Thank you for trusting Carlon® SuperBlue® boxes for years!
this type of information is needed so badly. Thanks you for giving your expertise to some of the DIYers out here. Your are an excellent dude. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Glad it was helpful!
And thank you for watching.
I really like those adjustable boxes. They're so handy when you have additional material after sheet rock to work with. Ex. Tile, cabinets, wood paneling.
We’re glad you like our Carlon® Adjust-A-Box!
Yes they are.
@@ElectricianU Hey Dustin can you do a video explaining why some electricians are considered mechanics like is that something different than a journeyman or master?
My new favorite channel next to Mentour Pilot. I’m currently studying for my Residential Wireman so this channel is incredibly helpful. Really appreciate the knowledge share!
I did a bunch of old work boxes, I did not want to do the drywall mount boxes as i don't trust drywall that much. I looked around big box home store has the normal basic things. Went to electric supply place and found these Arlington boxes that screw to the stud and you can slide in and out to get flush. Some i had to shim, adjust due to defects in the stud, etc but I like that idea a lot more than a box hung only on drywall.
This is why my lighting circuits are on their own 15A breaker with #14. Gives more room for all the switch legs and easier to put the wires in the box. Receptacle circuit are 20A with #12. If you pop a breaker on the receptacle circuit your are not left in the dark!
Go bigger when possible for new/old work. I just wired garage with 1/2” EMT/12 gage THHN. I got the deeper 2.25” metal handiboxes to clear the nuts of EMT fittings. Worked well except I needed a wider box for GFCI outlet. Best to check this when planning & buying materials. As always great information you provide.
Some thoughts.
1. On a typical residential job, using the higher quality/capacity materials usually only adds a couple hundred dollars. Just about every homeowner in the world will say "Yea I'll pay a couple hundred more for better quality electrical"
2. Nobody can know the future for sure, however, try to future proof things where logical and also think of those situations that are nice. Do. you have a situation where the calcs come out ok but the box is a prime candidate for being tapped in the future for something else? Maybe you should just go ahead and put in the deeper box now. Future you will appreciate when this is done. My dad used to put gfcis in any outlet within a certain distance of an exterior door because he knew if anyone was going to run an extension cord outside this was where people would likely plug it in.
3. If you are jamming stuff in, just put in the larger box. Seriously, whether it meets code or not.
when i was non union the company i worked for ONLY put adjustables in kitchens. run them out all the way so theres no possible way for the drywall guys to bury it and get tiled over before we come back for trim. then just adjust back to the tile depth if the tile guys didnt do that already and its perfect
Excellent explanation. Thanks for showing us this process and the available options for residential applications. Good to help me DIY it correctly and safely.
Always excited when there's a new Electrician U video to watch. Thanks for continuing to provide such high quality and digestible material.
good demo here .they are making retro work a bit easier with some of those boxes. the angled screw hole provision to fasten .drywall ears that screw to tighten up against inside sheetrock face. multi fastening provisions on boxes
That adjustable box is pretty interesting.
Thank you.
That’s all I’ve dealt with so far doing commercial work
One of the most informative videos yet! I love using the boxes with multiple mounting options. especially when doing a old work/remodel job and when you're cutting the drywall you hit a stud. Keep up the good work!👍
I use the 24.5in box everywhere I can. I screw the face on until everything is set then I nail and add a screw in the side. Then cut off the face tab with a oscillating saw.
I just found some 4” round boxes on Home Depot that use a 3-3/4 “ hole and just pop right in without having to saw for the old work ears. Great for smoke detectors and basic light fixtures.
Clear and simple explanation ❤
Wood in direct contact with concrete (as you showed in your studio wall) should be pressure treated or wood of natural resistance to decay. Metal spacers between the studs and the wall are also appropriate.
Here in the Chicago area, we install all 1900 boxes with the appropriate mud ring. All conduit and stranded conductors. Never really have to worry about box fill or running grounds since its all accounted for
excellent teaching and video electrical box instructions.
Excellent explanation especially for us D.I.Y.res!
I used those adjustable boxes when doing all the soundproofing as the drywall was on hat channel on sound clips and the drywall was 1 1/4" thick (two sheets). Even then had to add a wood peice to extend what to attach the extension box to. Would have had to use surface mounts without those and that wouldn't have been great for sound as I couldn't seal them with putty pads.
LOVE the deep boxes!
Wish they were required, by code (if in a standard 2x4 wall) to be able to touch to touch the back of the opposing wall's drywall. Or required by code, that in a standard wall, the box be the kind that can be adjustable. That would help in forcing the prices down.
Great video. Super helpful!! Thanks
That adjustable depth box is nice but I like to countersink the holes and crimp the metal more so it sits flush and isn’t so loosey goosy
I have an home automation system running, and those deep boxes are nice for the extra space for the radio electronics of the switch or receptacle to communicate with the hub.
Great to hear!
God I love how you provide in depth technical knowledge that fully wraps the subject up nicely; outstanding!! What about "pigtails". If pigtails are used as a general good practice, then in the circuit you describe, wouldn't there be white (1) and a black (2) pigtail, thus adding 4.5 more cubic inches to the volume???
Thanks for your interesting videos. My house was built in 1976. Not only do I have aluminum wiring, but I have 2x3 inch interior walls. I was young when I bought this house, and I had no idea about the wiring or the wall thickness. Of course, the exterior walls are 2 x 4 and insulated well. Overall, the house is nice, but installing electrical boxes is a real pain, and the wires running through the studs are a bit more succeptible to damage from screws/nails. I have updated most connections in the boxes with Alumiconn connectors, which i torqued as recommended, so I have no aluminum wires connected directly to switches or receptacles. I have had a few incidences of burned/melted connections, but no fires. I discovered that in the boxes in the 20 amp circuits that upon looking at the wires, thinking they were copper, I was surprised to see that the center core of those wires was aluminum. I haven't had any problems with those copper clad wires. I have used a number of those shallow plastic boxes (single gang, double, triple) as the alumiconns take up a bit more space, so even if I needed a single, I may have to go to a double to have enough room, them cover half with a blank plate.
Installed over 40 wall cases in my own house over many years split almost evenly with new work & old work. All are real deal dependable bullet proof metal boxes. Would never use a flimsy blue light special in my own house. Always used fiberglass boxes in exterior walls of homes because the 6/32 screw holes never stripped out, easier to seal and had a better fire rating.
I rip out metal boxes whenever I can. jackasses installed them 50+ years ago too deep in the wall, mud ring sitting 1/8 to 1/2 recessed in the wall. wires cut so short , end up chiseling, bashing drywall out to get to mud ring mounting screws. waste more time dicking around with metal boxes and mud rings then I do with the brittle AF ancient bakelight garbage boxes
We appreciate your feedback to help improve and expand our products! We extensively test authentic Carlon® Blue™ electrical solutions in certified labs and in the field to ensure quick and easy installation, code compliance and reliability.
I hadn't seen a new video except shorts from you in a while, so was glad to see a new one. Keep them coming.
Great video with lots of info...Thank you! Wondering why you didn't mention that inside the box has the number of conductors allowed? Is the box info not accurate?
I finally just got the IT Crowdesq to your intro music…mind blown 😮
Great explanation for a newbie. Much appreciated.
No more 10# of ? In a 5# bag. 😊
Great info. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks for the informative video as always!
I have used the boxes with metal tabs on metal/wood studs. However, one needs to pay attention and not screw drywall close to the tab because the metal tab creates a bump behind the drywall and could crack the drywall, in addition to seeing the bump on the drywall. So, one may need to shave the drywall or shave the wood stud to make it flat (i.e., eliminate the tab and its screws thickness).
Question- what is typical for the final inspection on a residential job. Jumping power from temporary service, using generator power or something else? Thanks for your input.
Do the wire nuts add into the space reduction? Do Wago take up less space? Fantastic break down. Never knew about the tabs inside the box taking space.
Connectors are not a part of the calculations.
Alot of time you need a deep one!😂 seriously when you are installing a GFCI or a dimmer they come in handy! I use the deep ones for kitchen counter GFCIs and bathrooms when I'm doing a rough in.
Where can the slim boxes be purchased? This is the first time I've seen them and its perfect for some walls in my moblie home. Thanks!
What would be a good textbook to use to get started on self-teaching Electrical wiring in general
I’ve used these kind of boxes at PCC.
Hey Dustin
Video suggestion.
I am looking for a video that explains how to hang a main panel, sub panel, breaker box.
Everyone explains how to wire a panel. But no one explains how a panel should be hung.
Indoor/outdoor. Water tight/non-watertight. Pvc/emt. Unistut.
What is code for hanging a panel?
Thanks for all the videos! Entertaining g as well as informative.
Osc-multitool for cutting the drywall.
Which box would you use for install into concrete for plugs and switch that has multiple switch
What if I want under cabinet (in corner) box instead of in back splash?
Basically how do you angle outlets, like those recessed boxes behind tv also?
You forget to mention with the low voltage box rings that they are often used for phone/data and coaxial cable TV wires. Ive installed them in homes many times for that.
Love you videos and channel!! My first day is on the 29th and I was interested in how you label and mark your code book
Great job, thank you
Been out of the biz 5 years now - retired after 47 years, no new code books on hand. Was wondering if, as you showed, 2 devices with massive differences in physical size, if they ever made it so each device needs to have its volume listed now for box fill. Was mentioned years ago, but never addressed in past. Also, something most young kids are not taught at all.1st journey man handed me 2 device boxes (steel), and said, "Figure out how to turn these into a2 gang box ... that's how you can tell a real electrician, from a hack." Useful trick, if you need a 5-gang switch box, and it will take 3 weeks to order it in plastic and will cost $40. Might be a useful video of itself.
I cannot imagine why one would not use the deepest possible box that would fit. In my house from 1938, for single gang switches and receptacles, the original builders mercifully used two gang metal boxes with single gang mud rings. For an addition, they used small handy boxes (and wires cut short) which have been a PITA to deal with.
It's simple it's called money. The deep boxes cost more even if it's pennies it's still less profit.
@@wizard3z868 Actually, my guess is that it back in 1938 it may have had more to do with the transition from lath and plaster to drywall - and a larger amount of old work that was being done. Plaster that squeezes between the lath can take up a good portion of an inch, so fitting deep boxes wasn't always easy. You had more boxes in walls that only had 1 cable going into them, with connections being made in junction boxes in the attic and basement. And at that time the knob and tube installs, that didn't use boxes, weren't that old and were still being added to. And with the smaller loads of the day 14/2 without ground was common - with only 1-2 receptacles per room. Stores had less inventory variety back then and likely focused more on boxes that could be used most often.
Do you have any videos of replacing new work boxes with old work to expand them in depth? Specifically, I have a metal stud/ metal box condo and on a fireplace the box does not sit to the end of the stone and the builder in 2007 thought longer screws were the answer. I also have several switch boxes that do not sit square with the drywall.
You could use a box extender to get it out to the edge of the stone. They have multiple options in design. Some sit at the front edge of the installed box; you buy them based on how much fill you need. Others slip in-between the box and the installed device. Thomas Betts (Carlon) makes the first option and Arlington makes the second option. (Some of the better names rather than random manufacturer). Just search for electrical box extender.
A+++ video Dustin!!!
Hey Dustin. Can you recommend a book that specifically talks about Wire Gauges Size & Wire Ampacity Table? Thanks
ok, so, this only counts for wires coming in to the box, correct??
example, you said up to 4 grounds can be counted as one. lets say im using a metal box to install a duplex receptacle. i have 2 12/2 going into it. in the actual box, counting only grounds, i have the 2 coming in, i have one screwed in grounding the box (that makes 3) and i have i pigtail ground coming off of each receptacle (2 more, so a total of 5)
so this would only count as 2 grounds, and not 5 if im correct??
(and yes, i know the rec .can be considered grounded through the yoke, but some inspectors dont)
I redid the lights in our house with Lutron Radio RA2 years ago. All the boxes were standard depth.. and it was painful to get those in the box.
Just wondering what the best way to get into an apprenticeship is? I’m in Massachusetts and I really want to make the move to be an electrician but don’t really know which direction to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hello sir! When will you be releasing a video about electricians and renewable energy projects? I’d love hear your thoughts on project management, apprentices and foreman on really long projects, different types of wiring and components, etc.
Hey, a question that was just posed to me, will electricity going down a curve have more resistance because less of their field is overlapping compared to electrons going down a straight path?
14:30 I can’t quite nail down how something like a nema 14-30R fits into this. Does it have 1 yoke because it’s the continuous mounting strap for a single device. Or does it count for 2 yokes because it mounts in a 2 gang?
15:16 may be this is to allow to install a bigger device later on without box changing?
I am new to your site. Liking what I’ve been seeing. On the screw of your tape measure, try a lil blue loctite. Hope it helps.
Great video.
Nice video!
My company has me installing an equipment with a meanwell 120v AC to to 12v DC. Not in an enclosure and the 120v whip is just secured with the terminal screws on the power supply( I strap the pwr cord next to the P.S. others don’t seems dangerous. Is this legal?
What about fill volume of wire nuts or is that counted with the wire volume. So if three #12 wires are wire nutted is that 7.75 cu. or is it a higher volume?
The deep depth boxes are great on inner walls, but they restrict the amount of insulation behind them, so be careful using them on external walls.
How common are the plastic boxes in the states? In Canada, I've only ever used metal boxes, for both concrete + steel stud, and wood frame buildings. The plastic ones look pretty cheap and not not as sturdy. The deep ones look handy though. I wonder if they're much cheaper than the metal ones.
They are very common in residential construction. There are some boxes with more rigid plastic that are much sturdier.
I can't find your video did you go over the weight of wire per foot? I'm looking at buying a partial roll of stranded 10awg
look in the back of the box where it tells how many of what size wires fits in it?
QUESTION : Does anyone make boxes that after mounted can be accessible from the back ?? Thx
Dustin, just curious do you know of any hvac channel that does about same as you and roger wakfield
Hello do four gang steel boes with mounting bracket need to be supported on other side.
Steel boxes have holes in the back for mounting, you usually need to set the depth by mounting a cross member accordingly.
Why you delete the playlist it was very help ful
I want to buy this item but I want to add brake buster and iron remover
But I’m not sure can I?
I’m surprised they allow those extended boxes, won’t the connections be buried behind the wall?
Every time I think I can get by with a small box, I wonder if at a future date somebody will want to splice in a line to another device later. It's annoying when you realize that the box you want to tie to needs to be replaced or extended because it can't accommodate a few extra wires and nuts.
Bingo.
I used to follow the stop method myself (Screw The Other Person) 😅 problem was later on I was the other person 😒 😅
What’s the difference between industrial and commercial outlets. By Leviton i can’t seem find the difference.
The way the wires can be terminated on the device. Especially if it says "Spec grade" somewhere on the device.
Some have just a screw. But commercial or "heavy duty" usually have a plate that can be terminated under with out the need for a loop.
@@ElectricianU thank you. One better then other far as durability
If you use conductor equivalents, the math is easier:
Device: 2
Cuurent wires: 6
Ground: 1
which totals 9 conductor equivalents, which times 2.25 is 20.25. That's much less multiplication.
Too make it even easier, divide the box volume by the conductor volume in advance, write that on the device cartons, and then all you have to do in the field is count.
For example, a 20 cubic inch box divided by 2.25 gives 8 and some remainder. You just ignore the remainder and 8 is the limit for that box size.
hate cut in old work boxes with a passion. especially when a TR receptacle is used in one. old people that can barely hold their hand steady trying to plug in a lamp get frustrated , just keep jamming plug against TR till it goes it or the cut in box caves in the wall. had way too many get caved in, ripped out. Id rather open the drywall, scab in a false stud 2 times size of the box, secure false stud to drywall, secure box to false stud. patch the drywall. metal boxes with mud rings are bane of my existent at our complex. overcrowded, wires cut way too short, mud ring recessed too far in the wall. so much fun chiseling out 50+ years of drywall, spackle to get to mud ring mounting screws
Good - good.
Could I, a DIY, use boxes that are technically deeper than needed and still be in Code?
And would that depend state to state?
I'm in Ca. 🤗
You can always use deeper boxes than required.
Could make a great hiding place. 🤗
@@JohnJohnson-ds2gd I’ve thought about installing a fake HVAC register for such a purpose.
Need some kind of rear nail plate to prevent penetration into rear of deep boxes.
Speaking from homeowner experience ... always use the deep box ...i replaced simple switches with smart one ... very painful
What is the reason to not just use the bigger box? I'm assuming it's all about cost? Because theres nothing wrong with using a larger-than-needed box, right?
Canadian ones have a metal ground clip inside
Wouldn’t it be more useful to provide the dimensions of the box as opposed to its cubic volume?
do stuff on permenat living rv situations
Home Depot boxes are great except when they strip the heads off your 6/32 screws when installing the device.
Use the correct bit when screwing in 6/32 screws. Most are flat head and square #1, not Phillips.
DUSTIN, What are the Volume Allowances formulas for each box type? I'm not sure what the Volume Allowance formulas are for the different box sizes and types. Can you make a video lesson about this?
The volume allowance is printed on/in the box.
@@rogerhodges7656 yes true but you still have to do a bunch of calculations on how many wires being used in the box, the wire gauge size, etc
In the code book they have diagrams and formulas but most of the time it's stamped on the box
@@wizard3z868 the code book will tell you the wire gauge size based on the volume allowance which they did some type of formula/conversion.
The reason they give the cubic inch of the inside of the box is because you are supposed to add up the different wires being installed by the circumference of the wire and type of insulation by its thickness. All that information is in the wire charts section of the code book.
Because you aren't always using one size wire in a box so just counting the number of circuits won't give you the correct and legal box fill. You have to use the wire size by gauge and mil circumference and the thickness of the insulation in the calculation.
That's why you are supposed to have taken and passed math classes in school before you become an apprentice.
We use math all the time as an electrician.
I have a thought for an upcoming episode. Why don't you do one on lockout tag program whether or not electricians should use it do they use it how they use it and what is the proper way to use lockout tag program?
Explain to us boss
The difference between arc fault, arc fault combination type, and arc fault dual function please 🙏🏻
An arc fault afci will detect a break in a hot or neutral wire (series arc). A combination type will detect a break in a series arc and an arc from hot to neutral (parallel arc). AFCI's are generally going to be combination type. Dual function refers to AFCI combination and GFCI protection in one device, it can be a circuit breaker or a receptacle.
The boxes with side access are called side cars, the last time I checked.
Thanks for your detailed information. Most take for granted that everyone knows this but if you are a do it yourself, the problem is found after you make the supply purchase.
so when you going to do one on hot swapping disconnects =).