Hobby Cheating 228 - Painting a Mini for Golden Demon
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2020
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through my painting of a miniature for Golden Demon. This is what I do take a miniature to full competition level, I show you (at a sped up level) the steps I go through and how I refine a miniature to the level necessary for competition. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Instagram: VincentVenturella
Email: WarhammerWeeklyQuestions@gmail.com
Take a Class with Vince: ckstudios.bigcartel.com/?fbcl... - เกม
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Summary of some of Vince Pro Tips I've gleamed from the video:
@8:17 Skin is transparent so show and include lots of color tones
@13:18 Colors only look right set against other real colors
@14:29 You decide all colors of materials!
@14:48 Using a few highlight colors helps the mini feel more uniform
@17:46 Mix two colors into your main color (one light and dark) so you can push into highlights and shadows that still match the main color, and have more hue - and adding hue makes a huge difference)
@31:45 Warm Gold wants purple in the shadows
@33:16 Silver highlights work on Gold cause you want the most reflective and bright thing possible
@39:12 Always move the brush forhair in the direction the hair is moving
@40:06 50% rule - half the surface must be the color you're aiming for it to look. The rest can be any color
Nice, great list!
Most painting channels on YT: it’s impossible to do a good video about painting for Golden Daemon!
Vincent: hold my painting cup
Thank you, I am glad people are finding this helpful. :)
Vincent: Puts on a video titled - "Painting a Mini for Golden Demon" to help his viewers.
Me: Puts on Debbie Gibsons' single 'Only In My Dreams' on Spotify in the background on low volume whilst watching.
PS: Painting to Golden Demon standard IS the dream for many.
Well thank you, I certainly hope this helps. :)
Amazing video, it’s nice to see all these things you have already told us put into a completed model to provide some more context
Thank you, this really was a combination of many things I've talked about before, hopefully people find this useful to see it in practice.
Lovely video, thank you for sharing your experience with us
Thank you sir, happy to help as always. :)
Just the video I was looking for, thank you so much! 😎
Glad I could help!
This was very informative and impressive; I always enjoying seeing the process other people go through when they're doing something like this because at the very least, even if I don't necessarily hit on some new bit of knowledge, its insightful. In this case seeing it from start to finish it helped me to really appreciate the attention you pay to all the details. Here's hoping you place and win!
We'll see, I honestly don't have much faith it will happen, but I am excited to participate as always. :)
So my wife walks in and says, "Your son just walked in to the room to tell me you just keep watching the same video over and over again, but you aren't really watching it you're just listening to it. He says the guy just keeps saying the same things over and over again. The mini looks really cool but dad isn't even looking." I asked my wife "Do you know what a mantra is?" My wife then walked in to see what video it was and by who. "Dad's not painting buddy, he's getting better." Yep! Thanks Vince don't want to just throw out your best video, but having trouble finding one that hits home like this one. Not just for competition, but for just improving. Pretty sure I learned targeted practice from you too so that would be the runner up.
That's awesome, thank you very much, always happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for making improvement seem approachable. You are an inspiration to a bucket ton of folks.
Good luck friend ! I was lucky enough to see your work at crystal brush when you won with your amazing sisters of battle knight good luck this year and keep up the amazing work
Thank you, I am really looking forward to it. :)
Just re-watched the painting for competition video 2 days ago. So happy to see this posted!!!
Awesome, I figured this would help people getting their entries ready for next month.
Definitely
So much useful information in one video. Thank you very much Vince :)
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Great job Vince! Model looks fantastic...good luck in the competition!! Saving this video in my lessons list :)
Awesome, thank you and happy to help as always. :)
Every time I watch one of your videos I learn so much! I wish you where doing a class near New York.
I am sure I will get back somewhere near new york at some point.
Vince is a fantastic painter.
Beautiful work as always
Thank you, very much appreciated. :)
I have been waiting for this video for a while, and it was worth the wait. I have no intention of painting to this level, but there are lots of things here I can use to improve my painting.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
"That's not ironic, it's just coincidental!"
-Bender Bending Rodriquez
Loved watching this through and to hear how you go about thinking it through. Maybe you already have a video on this but I'd love to see all the tricks for working with true metallics. I'm working on some Necron stuff and I'd like to use the Vallejo Metal with inks to create some neat volume, highlights, and shadows.
Oh, yes, I have many videos.
Here is one video - th-cam.com/video/T-gyIO3Ncpk/w-d-xo.html
Bronze - th-cam.com/video/OsueC_ee5-k/w-d-xo.html
Silver MEtals Speed Paint - th-cam.com/video/ByX2jIEmXJM/w-d-xo.html
TMM in a NMM style - th-cam.com/video/NRYgfJDNL2k/w-d-xo.html
Gold - th-cam.com/video/aX25IsoNaLM/w-d-xo.html
So that should keep you going for a while.
I think that haircut is more Wez from Mad Max 2, which would fit with the barbarian look.
Fair enough, I'm still feeling Hawkeye, but to each their own. ;)
TamsinP seconded
Absolutely stunning work to be proud of! I have to say, I get more out of your vids than really anyone else I've watched. Thank you so much for your time helping us! Btw, I'm sure you've noticed by now but at the end it looked as if a stray hair had attached to his right foot. Thought it may have been background, but it moved with the fig as you turned it. If that's what it was, you certainly noticed it.
Thank you, always happy to help and thanks for shouting that out, I will go and make sure it's removed. :)
Found this one very interesting, Thanks again!!!
Glad you enjoyed it
I've started work on my first ever entries into golden demon for this year.
Figured from now until May is enough time to get my three entries done.
Doing a guiliman slightly converted into a red scorpions character, an Archaon and forgeworld tank (can't remember which bloody one now!)
Nervous as all biscuits.
My best advice is don't rush yourself. If you need the whole time to get one really great entry done, that is going to be better than 3 weaker entries. That being said, sounds awesome, it's so much fun, looking forward to seeing yourself in the cabinet.
@@VinceVenturella advise heeded good sir.
I watch this in disbelief. Very nice man.
Thank you, very much appreciated.
I really like the fully model painting tutorial. I would have loved to see the skin a little closer and slower. That’s an area I would love to learn more on.
I'll be doing more videos on skin for sure going forward.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you 👍
great to see you painting true metal colours, which I prefer as well, but are much more difficult to handle in my view than non metallic.
Yeah, I am a big fan of TMM, especially for stuff like GD.
I still don’t understand “the glazing game”. Everybody talks about it, and there are tons of videos about “this is how you make and apply a glaze”. But the link between glazing and smooth blends still mostly eludes me. I understand one glaze brings the colors together, but how do multiples glazes produce a gradient without killing contrast? If you ever have the chance, I’d love to see a video from you on this.
Well, have you watched this video yet? - th-cam.com/video/N88NtHNmz1Q/w-d-xo.html
@37:30 - Hawkeye's hair in Endgame was spectacular. At least when they had it styled upwards Syndrome style. Hyper-stylized like a character out of sci-fi/fantasy should be, especially since the hairstyles and costumes in the comic books are FAR more ridiculous, but the fans will complain whenever anything is changes from page to cinema (even though it irrefutably has to be changed).
I'm still against it. ;)
Another fantastic video, thanks Vince! Quick question: will you be reviewing Vallejo’s new color shift paint when they are released?
I have some of the vallejo color shifting paint right now, it's not really my particular thing, I don't like the effect very much, but I am experimenting with them. I can't say for sure if I want to do a full review yet.
Crazy good!
Thank you, very much appreciated.
Fantastic videos ty! I paint individual models and I’m trying to understand the advanced process better. Your beginner guide mentions a specific process (zen,base, shade, line, highlight, layer/glaze) but of course this process for gold demon is different. From this video, it looks like the base is really jumping right into wet blending for shadows, dry, highlights, dry, edge, glaze. While I know every miniature is different, it would be great to understand “standard” process for more advanced individual painting. Plus 1 for this being the only vid I’ve found that walkthroughs advanced level painting and not total beginner. Ty!
Thanks! There are many more in the playlist all over the skill spectrum (I try to cover everything) and more display painting coming soon. :)
being at the beginning of my painting journey, this video just blows my mind because of the number of thing you thought about and considered to paint a model that is not that big in the end. Did you have in mind all the colors for each zones before starting? did you have a mental picture of the end results? how much of it did you “improvise” as you go? Personally, I try to plan and have an idea but I still do a lot as i go and often ... phew... I end up with something bit different ;-). I am looking forward the video about the base and to see everything together.
Thank you, the base is coming next week, so you won't have long to wait. :)
10:20 the problem I have with how layering is taught: a beginner is trying to figure out where to place highlights at the same time as guessing how much smaller each successive layer should be, even before they've figured out how to course correct if a layer is too big or a jump is too bold, or even if the highlight turns out to be in the wrong place.
What you're doing here is for a high level piece, but I think the concept could apply just as well for a beginner: find out where you want the highlights and the shadows, then you can blend the transition between them.
Yep, and it's why I focus on this in the layering video as well.
@@VinceVenturella I'll have to rewatch that one too!
I'd love to see you do a witch elf for building up pale female skin (also handy for sisters of battle!)
Yes, I am planning to do just that soon. :)
Hey Vince, thanks for sharing your process! I'll be starting my first competition entry soon, for 2021. I'm going to need plenty of time.
I did want to ask, if you ever bring any if your display models to a game? 40k and KoW can be quite rough on models, I've seen many breakages over the last couple years.
Yeah, anything you don't see on a display base I also use for gaming (once they are done competing). They stay in the cabinet until after their competition is done. Then they go to the table. Never had an issue.
I think the tmm is a little better than NMM. That looks great. Thanks Vince.
Thanks!
G'day Vince. Thanks for creating such wonderful and insightful videos. I have a suggestion that has always intrigued me and there is not much mention of it that i can find and that is namely, airbrush pressures and how to use them correctly. Can you do one on this topic one day please?
Sure, I can add that to the list, I will say that I basically run at 18 PSI almost exclusively and basically rely on the airbrush itself and trigger control from there.
For those that don’t know, there is a citadel Colour app for iPhones idk about other phones.
Oh btw, check out up left on the shoulder pad, the rapping/rope thing
around the spikey bit, it looks not painted but in silver
Good eye sir, I always go over all the competition pieces with a magnifer before the competition, but I hadn't seen that yet. Much appreciated.
@@VinceVenturella I am curious on what colours is going on that, I would go a brownish white, but it might be other colours thoughts when you are thinking competition colours should have meaning thoughts
Great video. A quick question, what brand of blue tac are you using?
Poster tac from 3M I believe.
Curious what feedback you got on this thing.. looks perfect to me. Awesome stuff as always. Completely just motivated me to get out of bed to look at some of my greys and doing something bout it.
Sadly, he never got to go compete, because 2020. But he may still go in the future.
Another awesome video. Unrelated questions, do color shift paints ever not look like glitter? Also what's your favorite "teal"? orc flesh and Caribbean blue by scale75 just aren't quite what I'm looking for. Been looking at approaches for alpha legion armor. Any additional thoughts?
It's one of the reasons I don't like them, the fact that they are very glittery. My favorite teal is Vallejo Blue-Green and Warcolours Turquoise 2. Hope that helps.
So, an interesting thing that I noticed as you went, is that the color that you introduced into your became more apparent as you filled out different areas. At 16:00 you can see the purple in a way that you couldn't at 0:00. I feel like there's a kernel of something interesting there that isn't obviously apparent that's worth discussing. I just can't quite put my finger on it.
Yeah, this kind of tan skin tone is so fun, because you can bring out those tones very subtly over time with the glazes and interactions.
What are other ways in which you can broadly distribute warm and cold colors across a mini? You've mentioned previously using cold shadows and warm highlights or vice versa, and here you made concentric circles, what other simple patterns tend to look good on the table?
Though I guess that would be a good topic for an entire video of its own. You could also explore lighting more, how to create a convincing value sketch (focusing on the thought process rather than technique).
Yeah, it's likely a whole video on it's own, but the basic rule is make sure they are fairly distributed and in balance around the model. This could be in triangles of the color, concentric circles or something similar.
Hi mate, just wondering what brand of brush you use. I apologise if this has been answered before, I just discovered you on TH-cam and this is the first of your vids I have watched. I love it thanks mate
No issue, so I would recommend this video - th-cam.com/video/YTm_LgpOA0Y/w-d-xo.html
I go through the five brushes by type I utilize. To answer your specific questions, Raphael 8404 and Winsor & Newton Series 7 are my nice brushes. I use lots of generic brushes for just base coating and things from cheap packs from amazon or Hobby Lobby.
Very Nice. Alot of info in this vid. Even at 1/2 speed still fast brush strokes. One day.. One Day.... LOL
It's just time and practice. I know anyone can get there as I have no base talent, so if I can do it, anyone can. :)
Hey Vince. Ever thought about writing a book? 228 videos is a lot to go through. 228 pages of a big is a bit more digestible. I know you're never done learning but I'm sure that you can fill a book with what you know now!
I haven't really thought about it, I've written several books for RPGs before, hmm...Something to think about, could be fun.
Since it's a competition piece some points of critique and impressions, though keep in mind I've only got those pictures to judge, which may vastly differ in person:
The shoulderskull reads as rock to me and looks comparatively flat. The shoulderfur looks kinda smooth, a tad more like fur-eels than strands. In the full frontal picture, his legs have a certain red translucent leggings-vibe to them. Also the bronze-chaos-champion-belt looks kinda uninspired compared to the rest. Another point to consider: The way you've painted his head would imply that he either just shaved is mohawk or waxed it, otherwise there would be some form of 5-o'clock-shadow surrounding it, especially since his hair is so dark
Besides that, thanks so much for your videos, it's always a joy to watch them!
Thanks, good feedback all. :)
Vince - thanks for another fantastic video! On a separate note Nova pushed back their schedule release a week (software upgrade issue - that *never* happens :-) ). While I'm sure you can't detail the schedule can you say what classes you're planning on teaching there?
My schedule this year should be much like what I taught last year, so I know people who missed out will get another chance this year. :)
This Chief was one of the best sculpted humans in S2D-Warcry, so great choice! Love the barbarian purple/grey and dark skin tones! Now all you need is a 40 Marauders Vince to go crazy. 😜 jk
Yeah, no 40 marauders for me. ;)
I hope you do well at Golden Daemon Vince. I really enjoyed this one. Question, I was recently told that backflowing an airbrush is bad for it because it’s not designed for it. What are you thoughts on that?
I've never had an issue and I've been backfilling forever. I know there are some people who are very much against it, but I've never had an issue.
That looks so cool. Should probably add a beefy figure to the queue to work on skin tones, and to get away from these real scale figures I'll be doing soon...
Question in regards to thinning paints for glazing. I'm running into an issue where I get beading when trying to apply the thinned paint to the model. Is that likely needing to wick more moisture away, or is there possibly something else I should be trying to adjust? Just using water at the moment (I should probably buy distilled, my water is rather hard.) Thank you!
So there are two potential answers as to why that would be happening. First, it could be that yes, more liquid needs to be wicked out of the brush. The second option is the paint is just breaking down. The water is a solvent, and realistically, all the paints have a breaking point. So you may want to try thinning it with just some medium (thinner medium, lahmian medium, whatever). That could really help solve the issue regardless of the paint.
I'm still in the middle of the video, but I'm so excited with seeing you take a miniature to completion at this level.... oh man.
And this model is amazing to be honest, I hope you take a golden demon home, Vince :D
Also I wanted to ask you, which flow improver do you use or recommend?
Thank you, very much appreciated. As to which flow improver, I utilize Warcolours flow improver.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks man! I can't seem to find anything from warcolours in my country, and I'm definitely interested, because you show us so many of their stuff. Do you think airbrush flow improver behaves in a similar way with paint on a palette?
@@MagatsuNimura Absolutely, another great option for sure.
Great video!
Just curious, how many golden deamon have you won Vince ?
I've won 2 GD's from the 3 I have attended. :)
Is there a color in scale75/F&G/warcolours you'd recommend as a sub for ice yellow? Hykey yellow? lilith yellow? my local doesn't have any, so the only reference I have for the color is from youtube videos, wet on a palate, reflecting tons of light :P
Hykey Yellow, Tenere Yellow or just some bright yellow mixed with an ivory.
Double speed you say...? Ok, so I can watch at 0'5 playback, watch you work real-time... And as an extra bonus... It's like I got a master-painter totally pissed-drunk to spill he's painting secrets! Win-win!
Yeah, I imagine at that speed I will sound strange. ;)
@@VinceVenturella I'd say totally normal, composed... And even incredibly articulate for someone who drank half a bottle of whiskey?
Before starting the flesh (around the 4:45 mark), is that a good place to varnish your first save point? Thanks
Yep, that is usually where I first varnish that way everything is smooth and protected as I am working from there.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you
Hey Vince! I'd be super interested in knowing more about the methodology in selecting this particular model. Is it just a model you really like or is there a strategy in terms of showcasing specific skills and technique.
So there were several reasons for this model, first, it's part of a larger project I am doing (i.e. it's part of a unit, so it kind of had to be this one). That being said, it's a great single model as well. It's got great personality, lots of textures to show different skills on. It also is a wonderfully open figure (meaning no parts of the model are blocking other parts of the model).
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the reply! Looking forward to seeing the rest of the squad. This was a really informative video I'm stealing bits and pieces for a Fomoroid crusher I'm working on. Really appreciate this channel its done more to push me back in the hobby and experiment and push techniques.
"SKIN IS FANTASTIC"
I stand behind this. :)
@@VinceVenturella I mean, I'm pretty fond of mine >.>
i would like to know exactly how should do you take to paint your chaos knight mounted because i just started to work on one by checking out for mold lines as will as making sure that pieces are glued properly but i am still not sure if i should paint the whole figure after washing the figure yes or no ?
So I keep them all assembled except the shield, I keep that separate. So I paint everything as one except the shield, haven't found too much trouble with that.
@@VinceVenturella i just tried to put the knight on the horse last night and found it use almost impossible to do what did i do wrong and that was without the shield and weapon ?
Is it a good idea to mix warcolour paints, which are gel-based, with normal paints generally? Does it lose its gel-based nature?
In general, you can do it without issue. It's mostly going to become a normal layering paint in that case you are correct.
„Ok, this Time i follow exactly how he does it! I can do it too!“ Five miniture in „ that looks already better then anything I ever did. how did he get there? I have to rewind and look the whole thing again“
Paint mixing and lighting effects are two crucial things that are hard to teach through video.
Hopefully this is really helping, I wanted to really show people the detail as much as possible without putting people to sleep. :)
Cador he makes it look easy, what he’s not telling you is that Vince is actually a cyborg
Do you familiarize yourself with paint before use that you did not use before?
Example. I can paint my Ultramarines without any thought because I have done so many but when I switch to another army like Untamed Beasts I am having trouble getting the effects I am trying to get. Predominantly earthy brown with a touch of yellow and green.
Any tips to make "new" paint schemes work before applying to the models?
In skirmish games, not too many to fail on before getting it right.
All of these paints I am quite familiar with, I use a lot of paints often. That being said, some experimentation to understand how they are working is always good. I use larger units to test stuff, because slight inconsistencies won't really be noticed. If you have a new paint scheme, my best advice is test it out on something on a piece of paper, like literally just do a basic sketch of the model on paper and paint it out. It will help you to see if things are roughly balanced.
Hey Vince! Great video as always, but I was curious how you would do or if it's possible to do a video on pearlescent/irradescent effects? I've been playing around with an obr army with ivory host and i think pearlescent white armor on those boney lads would look amazing. No idea on how to do tho so any help would be much appreciated
In general, I tend to stay away from Pearlescent effects. THey are really hard to sell in that scale. If you use a paint that sort of fakes it (like the various pearl or shifting paints), it just has a strange unreal appearance to it. If you want to truly create it, then you have to really work through the colors. It's something that has been on my list for a long time, and I will likely keep playing with it, but it will likely be a while. :)
@@VinceVenturella awesome thanks for the info, I was thinking that it was going to be a beast to do. since I'd be going the army route, best bet would be a pink or peach glaze over a warmer white to make a pearly white?
@@arazlam4754 If we're talking an army, something like the Scale 75 Fluor Brill White, and then add the pink you are talking about and that would be a useful effect for an army. Hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella yessir thank you so much!
I may have missed this somewhere. Minus the base, what is the total time effort for this piece? Do you find time to scale linearly with size? i.e. doing a mounted war beast, which is say 500% more surface area, is a straight extrapolation of effort?
So I would say overall, he was probably about 60 hours total with the base. It doesn't really expand linearly, because often the surfaces are much the same. For example, you just get larger volumes of flesh, so it's more time, but not a direct increase linearly. Hope that makes sense.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you, that does indeed.
crispy
Thank you. :)
Hey Vince you probably answered that several times but what's the holder you using? This looks like it works with bottle caps. Cheers!
It's from Game Envy, they make hobby holders, very useful.
@@VinceVenturella thank you very much
What model is this? Also great video as always!
This is the Dark Oath chieftain from Games Workshop.
Ik you have probably answered this elsewhere or more experienced Gamesworkshop fans would know but what’s the model?
Also thank you for the overview on your process it’s real invaluable to those of us in the early growing pain stages
Darkoath chieftain
Sharok888 thank you
Someone beat me to it, but happy to help as always. :)
Vince Venturella thank you good sir
You probably mentioned it and I just missed it, but what is that model? It's pretty great.
Dark Oath Chieftain from Games Workshop in Warhammer, Age of Sigmar.
@@VinceVenturella Outstanding, thanks!
Hey! I don't know if this has been recommended, but how about a video of zenithal highlighting with contrasting colors to give a different kind of contrast?
Sure, you mean like using deep green as your base color and a light warm highlight then red over the top. I do utilize that technique in a few videos where I will undershade in the contrasting color of the ultimate main color (i.e. hull red under green orcs and so on).
@@VinceVenturella Yeah! I must have missed that part. I'll take another look. Thanks!
The 80s Conan like mini really isn't my thing, but I'm interested 😶...
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
I don't suppose you'll be naming this entry "Barbarian Vince" will you? If so, I highly approve of your puns.
No, this one has a slightly different name planned. :)
I have one question and that is what color can i use instead ice yellow ?
Any bright white yellow will work, Scale 75 makes a Hykey yellow. Warcolours makes Ochre 2, So there are definitely options.
I often mix some GW Flash Gitz Yellow with an ivory or light bone color. That comes pretty close.
@@VinceVenturella what scale 75 paint set is this color from ?
@@marcyablon1279 Hykey yellow comes from the Fantasy & Games Steampunk copper and gold set.
@@VinceVenturella thank you for everything also i would hope that you and maybe some of the other painters try coming to MFCA some time if possible that is .
Focuuuussss!
Yes, sorry, I had some focus issues in the middle there.
@@VinceVenturella it's a shame becouse the video is very interesting.
😊
Interested to know what the total real time spent was? Loved this vid also. New sub
Welcome, glad to have you along on the hobby journey. :) - Total time was probably something like 60 hours, that's pretty average I think for my competition pieces.
Also, to clarify, that's for the model AND the base. :)
i feel like you may have said this but how many hours in total do you think this took you?
I couldn't say for this in particular as it's been a while, but when we are talking a human figure for something like golden demon, it's at least 30-40 hours for me at minimum, but of course, what I can do in that time may vary greatly (in either direction) from what others could accomplish in that time. The key is this - when you are painting for competition, time doesn't matter, you paint until it's as close to perfect as you can get it, if that's 10 hours, 100 hours or 500 hours, that the correct amount of time. It's painting toward an end, not a time. :)
Also, can you upload a complete timelapse of this process separately? TH-cam has video speed controls, so we can speed the footage up if we want to, but slowing down this video degrades quality and distorts your voice so it's unwatchable.
This is all the footage I have, what were you looking for as opposed to this?
@@VinceVenturella I mean the un-slowed footage.
What model is this from?
Darkoath Chieftain from Games Workshop.
I'm pretty sure that you're just insane in other ways, Vince...
But nice...
I am sure that is true. ;) - Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Just out of curiosity, because u r not using the nmm, does it means is less likely to win the golden demon? since you are not showing your skills that much?
Using true metallic metals does not mean that you aren't still showing off your skill. Vince also says in the video that Golden Demon tends to favor true metallics over non metallics.
(I would also say that I personally prefer true metallics, both in appearance and in use)
@@chrispalumbo5556 yea i like tmm, prob just me watching too much painting videos and nmm really got into me 😅
So I certainly like both. But for GD, the basic rule is unless you can do completely amazing NMM (which I am doing on another piece, not that's amazing, but I just thought it fit better for that piece) then do TMM. It's one of those competitions that TMM really doesn't detract, they just want you to have the highest quality of clean painting you can.
@@VinceVenturella ok thx for answering man 😊
Thank you, another hugely useful video. Are you able to recommend a paint to make my own brown glaze for the flesh please? Getting a single bottle of Warcolours, here, is prohibitively expensive. I have mostly VMC and Reaper paints.Not seeing it on your palette makes it tough to match and I'd like to try it out on some barbarians I am currently painitng. Thanks in advance.
So if you don't have brown glaze, then something like Vallejo Sepia ink thinned down to a filter consistency would be a good replacement.
Thanks Vince I'm sure I have some Sepia Ink somewhere and I'll give it a go.
Great vid as usual but your voice is really echoey bud
Strange, I am not sure why it was echoing here, I'll see what I can do for the future.
You'll never win. You've given away all the secrets. Everybody is going to copy this and there will be a hundred entries. The judges will get sick of looking at them all and throw them in the bin and award the GD to something, ANYTHING else. Also am I the only one who thinks Vince sounds like Mr. Mackey from South Park when he says OK.
Curses, how did I not think of this? ;)
What's wrong with the haircut? I've been wearing that haircut for the last thirty years at least...
Nothing, it's just definitely Hawkeye's haircut. :)
@@VinceVenturella don't worry, I was just speaking in jest =)
We old punks don't die, we just turn into gothic punks and death rockers =D
I am afraid I'm not familiar with this Hawkeye you mention, the only one I can remember is the one from MASH