Yeah, great 1k product for busy bodyshops, I use uv primer from skikkens, just make sure to put plastic primer on bare plastic and on fully dry etch primer otherwise uv primer will peel off easy, some uv lights work for aprox 7min and they cool down for 15min... so it depends on repair area.
For small burn-threws, stone chips and other imperfections use a couple coats of proper tinted sealer. Sand then paint. Sealer dries fast and can be done in a heated booth
@@Joemama-jq8fm a good question with many answers. I'll answer in a way that relates to my post. Let's say your in the booth ready to paint a tailgate. Its masked and ready to paint but u realize that there is burn threws in the primed area and stone chips on the other area. So instead of unmasking you fix stone chips with final putty and spray etch on the bare metal burn threw. This is where you use the properly tinted sealer over the repairs instead of primer because sealer dries quicker. When sealer is ready for paint check over the sealer for nibs,defects or excessive over spray. If so sand sealer with 1000 wet or dry but make sure to control the sanding residue. Remember don't paint unless the substrate is perfect.
I learned that some sealers can dry faster than others but Not as fast as the uv based epoxy primer..and Joe mama is right; not all sealers are sandable.
Nothing like making a job quick and easy! UV is a wonderful thing. Thanks for the demo Gabe. Have a good one!
Works great!
Yeah, great 1k product for busy bodyshops, I use uv primer from skikkens, just make sure to put plastic primer on bare plastic and on fully dry etch primer otherwise uv primer will peel off easy, some uv lights work for aprox 7min and they cool down for 15min... so it depends on repair area.
For small burn-threws, stone chips and other imperfections use a couple coats of proper tinted sealer. Sand then paint. Sealer dries fast and can be done in a heated booth
why would you sand sealer ?
@@Joemama-jq8fm a good question with many answers. I'll answer in a way that relates to my post. Let's say your in the booth ready to paint a tailgate. Its masked and ready to paint but u realize that there is burn threws in the primed area and stone chips on the other area. So instead of unmasking you fix stone chips with final putty and spray etch on the bare metal burn threw. This is where you use the properly tinted sealer over the repairs instead of primer because sealer dries quicker. When sealer is ready for paint check over the sealer for nibs,defects or excessive over spray. If so sand sealer with 1000 wet or dry but make sure to control the sanding residue. Remember don't paint unless the substrate is perfect.
I learned that some sealers can dry faster than others but Not as fast as the uv based epoxy primer..and Joe mama is right; not all sealers are sandable.
Are you still using this product?
How is the hold out? Any issues long term?
muy rapido !! gran trabajo. una pregunta, no te afecta el contacto de la luz sin proteccion?
Sí deberías de tener protección absolutamente
Isn’t that a lot of primer??1 heavy coat only works? Thanks for sharing
Nice work brother
Thank you!
We can't seem to get it in an aerosol only in pint cans??
You should do a review on EPW primers
What is this product serie?..is it ppg item,Dude?
Yes just google it 😁
Do you guys grind everything wet?
Not all
Wtf How many Mils is. that Jeeez
Can this UV primer be used for larger area?
Yes it's good product!! If ur using it rite
I like yes you can
It's sealant ?
It's primer
Is t407 or t409 toner blacker? looking for a true black, any help is greatfull
Both are black. I think 407 is jet black and 409 is deep black
@@derekwarrack2017 you are correct, was wondering which was blacker. Guess a spray out never hurt anyone, thank you
407 is darker but the both are a yellow black I’m not sure if you can use the t407 straight
@@ryanlewis86 thank you
Yes best way to tell would be to do spray out and check with light to see which you like better