its insane how much different these chimneys look in person! PS: to anyone who's watching this and going to climb it, its 10 times easier to have your back to the mountain wall as opposed to the black tower wall (what he did in this pitch)
Lead this pitch as my first chimney. I had watched this video before climbing it. So much harder than it looks and so different in person!! I wish I had remembered your leg beta for where it gets real narrow at the top. I really struggled. Great send and keep up the videos!
Just did this yesterday. Very nearly fell before the fixed yellow sling piece he grabbed from leg exhaustion. It is so dramatically hard in that section. Just wider than being able to put your knees across.
You guys did a great video! As far as the comments below, "turn around and it's easier" - maybe not. I've done that route over 10 times or so, what a great route. Work out hard before you try it, do long mu;ltiple laps of hard routes at your homebase. When you show up, crank it out and GTF to the top. If you don't think you are up for it, do Frogland and if you can't car to car Frogland in 2 hours, put this off for another day. Remember that it's colder back in the canyon so you need to carry less water. DON'T EVE N TRY THIS ROUTE IF YOU ARE NOT SOLID AT THE GRADE IN CHIIMNEYS, A fall in any chimney would be beyond horrific. Don't fall. Great route.
I did it back in 2012 on my birthday at the end of august , i drank all my water and wished i had more , it was a bit too much for a pasty white englishman , but thankfully i had a local to look out for me Andy F , coming form the uk i was not really ready for such a long climb , i hadnt climbed in ages and had just done 30 days straight work in Vegas , most of our hills/mountains are 3000ft and i dont think we have anything near that long over here , a 1000ft is our longest climb and most is single pitch . Still one of my favourite days out even though i wasnt prepared enough physically or had acclimatized adequately enough .
@@sig124 Last time I was there, 2 buddies decided to finish a long day of climbing in Black Velvet by doing Frogland. As the flight was leaving soon, there was some contention that they should do this, but they assured us it was fine and off they went as the rest of us started descending Black Velvet Canyon to the car. Neither had been on the route before, so I walked them over and showed them the start. Then I checked my watch and started hiking down. Stopping once at the wash at the bottom to yell that they were off route near the top. They took 40 min to finish Frogland, base of the route to the car. The oldest was @ my age, 64 at the time, youngest of the 2 was @44. Steve Lyford and Stan Miller. They did jog the descent, but it gets done. I did it with 2 other relatively new folks and 2 hours car to car. Of note, another time (or so, all this stuff kind of runs together), Gent Mendes and I had followed the same 2 up Epi and I believe that our car to car time was 9 hours. So use that as a comparison. If you take 4 hours to c to c Frogland, Epi will likely be a dark finish for you.
2:46 This is a textbook example of how not to place a cam. The left outside lobe is dangerously undercammed. It's not possible to tell in a video, but there could be a better placement there for that cam. Sometimes just flipping the cam over can turn a shitty placement into a good one. To Kellen Edmonds point, a lot of the placements in these videos are dangerous and beginners should not look to the videos as an example of how to safely and efficiently protect a pitch.
And you want to know what this channel is ? Not a tutorial channel ! No it is just a channel where you watch someone climb rock and just watch the video or think about some of the placements think what you would have done in that situation learn something for yourself OR you can post constructive criticism and not try to act like a smart ass.
duke of nuke you're sounding like the smart ass your describing him/her to be. They are just providing feedback and if you're hurt about that turn off your computer.
He is right on about the cam placements... This climb definitely calls for a LOT more passive gear, especially in those shallow placements. This is sandstone, afterall... having said that, it's still excellent to have him sharing every pitch with us! I'm super stoked to get to vegas and tic this one off my bucket list... thanks for sharing!
Wow, it keeps getting better. I hate to keep harping on you, however I fear for folks that use this video as "instructional" your gear sucked. Period. Every piece. That 3, again, really? The lobes weren't even, it was flaring. And the 2, holy hell did you get it back? Or did it walk back into the crack? like the one fixed piece you pulled on. It's a bunch of chimneys, go figure that a couple big pieces would have helped. I hope you dial your style before you take a huge fall and possibly cost people their lives. You pulled on that 2 without even hesitating. What if it had pulled? You'd be in the hospital. You also blew the free ascent by pulling on it.
FirstPersonBeta I don't wear a gopro while climbing. I'm there for me, not to spray. You kinda have to expect this. I mean, it's 5.9 and you're pulling on gear. Terribly placed gear at that. You need a mentor, you also need to fall on gear, learn how it reacts, why undercamming will kill you and what triloading is, and how to avoid it. I'm not trying to be a dick. I fear that people will use your video as instructional. I also would rather you not zipper a whole pitch.
its insane how much different these chimneys look in person!
PS: to anyone who's watching this and going to climb it, its 10 times easier to have your back to the mountain wall as opposed to the black tower wall (what he did in this pitch)
Lead this pitch as my first chimney. I had watched this video before climbing it. So much harder than it looks and so different in person!! I wish I had remembered your leg beta for where it gets real narrow at the top. I really struggled. Great send and keep up the videos!
Just did this yesterday. Very nearly fell before the fixed yellow sling piece he grabbed from leg exhaustion. It is so dramatically hard in that section. Just wider than being able to put your knees across.
Those chimneys man...always look straight forward until your in one ...lol what a smoker!
You guys did a great video! As far as the comments below, "turn around and it's easier" - maybe not. I've done that route over 10 times or so, what a great route. Work out hard before you try it, do long mu;ltiple laps of hard routes at your homebase. When you show up, crank it out and GTF to the top. If you don't think you are up for it, do Frogland and if you can't car to car Frogland in 2 hours, put this off for another day. Remember that it's colder back in the canyon so you need to carry less water.
DON'T EVE N TRY THIS ROUTE IF YOU ARE NOT SOLID AT THE GRADE IN CHIIMNEYS, A fall in any chimney would be beyond horrific. Don't fall. Great route.
I did it back in 2012 on my birthday at the end of august , i drank all my water and wished i had more , it was a bit too much for a pasty white englishman , but thankfully i had a local to look out for me Andy F , coming form the uk i was not really ready for such a long climb , i hadnt climbed in ages and had just done 30 days straight work in Vegas , most of our hills/mountains are 3000ft and i dont think we have anything near that long over here , a 1000ft is our longest climb and most is single pitch . Still one of my favourite days out even though i wasnt prepared enough physically or had acclimatized adequately enough .
the idea of doing frogland 2 hours car to car baffles me with the approach and descent being as extensive as they are
@@sig124 Last time I was there, 2 buddies decided to finish a long day of climbing in Black Velvet by doing Frogland. As the flight was leaving soon, there was some contention that they should do this, but they assured us it was fine and off they went as the rest of us started descending Black Velvet Canyon to the car. Neither had been on the route before, so I walked them over and showed them the start. Then I checked my watch and started hiking down. Stopping once at the wash at the bottom to yell that they were off route near the top. They took 40 min to finish Frogland, base of the route to the car. The oldest was @ my age, 64 at the time, youngest of the 2 was @44. Steve Lyford and Stan Miller. They did jog the descent, but it gets done. I did it with 2 other relatively new folks and 2 hours car to car. Of note, another time (or so, all this stuff kind of runs together), Gent Mendes and I had followed the same 2 up Epi and I believe that our car to car time was 9 hours. So use that as a comparison. If you take 4 hours to c to c Frogland, Epi will likely be a dark finish for you.
Awesome! Great vids! Totally addicted watching these. Newbie here, love watching your technique!
3:05 classic comment I love it
“Well fuck it is what is.” Lmao! Been there.
Nice work! We want to see all the chimney pitches
Squeeze chimneys are always fun. nice climb
2:46 This is a textbook example of how not to place a cam. The left outside lobe is dangerously undercammed. It's not possible to tell in a video, but there could be a better placement there for that cam. Sometimes just flipping the cam over can turn a shitty placement into a good one.
To Kellen Edmonds point, a lot of the placements in these videos are dangerous and beginners should not look to the videos as an example of how to safely and efficiently protect a pitch.
And you want to know what this channel is ?
Not a tutorial channel !
No it is just a channel where you watch someone climb rock and just watch the video or think about some of the placements think what you would have done in that situation learn something for yourself OR you can post constructive criticism and not try to act like a smart ass.
duke of nuke you're sounding like the smart ass your describing him/her to be. They are just providing feedback and if you're hurt about that turn off your computer.
He is right on about the cam placements... This climb definitely calls for a LOT more passive gear, especially in those shallow placements. This is sandstone, afterall... having said that, it's still excellent to have him sharing every pitch with us! I'm super stoked to get to vegas and tic this one off my bucket list... thanks for sharing!
But did he die?
Yes, and he clearly knew it was which was why he quickly got the #2 in above. Sometimes when you’re placing blindly it can be difficult to judge.
It really looks like you made that pitch a lot harder than it is.
Curious as to why you didn't use the jutting dihedral sooner
Awesome!
Love the videos man... what camera are you using to film these videos? The video doesn't seem as fisheyed as normal gopro's.
Sketch-o-rama
wow, looks beefy
Wow, it keeps getting better. I hate to keep harping on you, however I fear for folks that use this video as "instructional" your gear sucked. Period. Every piece. That 3, again, really? The lobes weren't even, it was flaring. And the 2, holy hell did you get it back? Or did it walk back into the crack? like the one fixed piece you pulled on. It's a bunch of chimneys, go figure that a couple big pieces would have helped. I hope you dial your style before you take a huge fall and possibly cost people their lives. You pulled on that 2 without even hesitating. What if it had pulled? You'd be in the hospital. You also blew the free ascent by pulling on it.
+kellen edmonds PM your address. I'll ship you a Gopro and you can show everyone how it should be done.
FirstPersonBeta I don't wear a gopro while climbing. I'm there for me, not to spray. You kinda have to expect this. I mean, it's 5.9 and you're pulling on gear. Terribly placed gear at that. You need a mentor, you also need to fall on gear, learn how it reacts, why undercamming will kill you and what triloading is, and how to avoid it. I'm not trying to be a dick. I fear that people will use your video as instructional. I also would rather you not zipper a whole pitch.
kellen edmonds Ah yes, of course.
FirstPersonBeta not sure what you mean by that. If you don't want to hear people's opinions, don't post on youtube.
If I don't want to hear people's opinions, I'd just turn off the comments (or just delete this thread, I have that ability as well).