I’ve fixed a couple slab leaks recently that were on 3/4 pex pipe. Got lucky and was able to just run a piece of 1/2 pex inside the 3/4 and come out the other side where I could tie into. Homeowner never noticed a difference in water pressure. Of course it only works if it was a continuous run of pipe, if there are any fittings along the way then the 1/2 pipe won’t go thru those. Sure beat having to bust up their concrete floors inside the house
shark bite fitting cannot be concealed in walls or below slab and sleeving any tubing pushed thru 1/2 copper is Too Small ,but go head and follow th is example , you get what you pay for
Helpful video. The green on the copper manifolds is excess flux from sloppy installation work. It gets into the pipe and over time can cause erosion in the copper pipe walls and leaks. Also, I trust a pex crimp to last like a soldered joint (if done correctly) but I am not convinced the shark-bite's rubber seal will hold long enough to justify using. Those shark-bite fittings have been around maybe 15 years so time will tell. The fittings will not slip but I question the longevity of using a rubber type seal to hold tight inside a wall for the next 25-50 years. Thanks
This method will only work if there are no fittings below the slab. Here in Florida, they will make their branches under the slab. That means 'tee's are buried too. I have seen this method used on 3/4" piping but the plumber used PEX tubing snaked withing the broken 3/4" pipe, a more robust material rather than vinyl water tubing such as this fellow is using. The clear tubing he's showing is not rated for this kind of pressure. The PEX tubing was 1/2".
Ide imagine your mistaken on the pipe sizes, a 3/4 pex line will not fit through a 3/4 pipe of any material, you would have to reduce down to 1/2” or maybe 3/8” pex to fit through a 3/4” pipe, then you would be left with a lower volume of water at the fixtures it feeds...its better to eliminate the broken line in the ground and run a new same size pex line overhead through the attic or walls
@@albertolara3817 Reroute is only considered based on what its feeding. If you have a 3/4 hot feeding your bathroom you have no reason to cut up and reroute. Half in will do the trick without you noticing.
Sir, thank you very much for the film. I can't understand, where to connect the second part of that red pipe, how do you know, should you connect it to the kitchen sink or where the washer is, where? I saw the second part of your film, but still don't know where that red pipe ends : kitchen, laundry room, where? We have a slab leak in the bathroom, we removed a bathtub, and in the hole under the sink of the bathtub a water comes slowly on the bottom, like after one hour of opened water (we keep it closed all the time, but ~1 hour in the morning, we have bad leak, 6 gallons/min). I did a lot of plumbing in the house (I changed all the compression valves, all faucets, changed garbage disposal and kitchen sink, changed hose under the dishwasher, changed toilet, trying to eliminate all possible small leaks and update everything for more fancy staff at the same time). I didn't want to do that rerouting, because I think under the slab repair is better and no water is above your head, though we live in Dallas, and many companies recommended this variant (they charge here 2.5 thousands). I didn't want to spend 2.5 thousands for something I don't like and was looking for the ways to repair under the slab (they come with charges ~4-5 thousands (we are on the budget), and they don't know exactly where it is (with hydrostatic equipment and electronic as well, 2 very reputable companies), so it might be multiple holes, before they find the location of the leak exactly). But here I saw your film, and you said that anyone who can do faucets can do this job, so I want to try to do it myself. Please can you explain where do you end up with that red pipe exactly, you start from the pipe in the bathroom, I saw those pipes in our bathroom as well, but where to end up? Yes, and I worked in the attic as well, since there was a need to change the busted electric box for one fan. I think I can do it if have more information. Thank you again.
We are in Dallas also one of those plumbers name begins those estimates are about Catholic buses without we are in Dallas also what are those plumbers name that gave those estimates are about half as much more or less as what we were gotten. We have galvanized piping in the slab which might make a difference.
Dear Mr. Duke, thank you very much for your concerns. We succeeded to repair the leak (cold water, under the wall separating 2 bathrooms, on the depth ~2 feet). We removed the bathtub, made the hole in the concrete, saw the pipe (it was sleeved all the way, that's why was difficult to detect), but didn't see the hole yet. At this point we hoped to detect more accurately, but were ripped off by "ACCU-FIND Slab Leak", who pointed the location of the bubble from the compressor like a leak, and it was just a hole in the sleeve at that place, and those "experts" on SL-s acted like they saw a sleeved pipe first time in their life. Then Roto Rooter's Plumbing (they detected most accurately), teared off that sleeve and the bubble moved to the corner of the bathtub of course. I suggested to do tunneling, which was done, hole was found and soldered. So we are O'K now, but plumbers, who soldered it were able to cut and replace only like 2 feet of that pipe, and they said the condition of it is not very good. What worries me that the soldering done was just soft soldering (not silver), and condition of the whole pipe of course. In the future I would like to replace the whole under slab pipe, but to do that procedure I need to do reroute at least at that area, to switch that way, when repair under the slab is taking place. In other words I'm thinking about additional attic line (for additional safety reasons), which can be switched off and on when needed. Do you think it is possible? And I want to do it myself, since we spent all of our budget for the repair described above. Yes and a company which detected the leak just in the wrong location originally was Baker's Brothers. When I called them and told that the leak is not in front of the bathtub, but rather under it, somewhere in the corner, they even didn't apologize for the wrong detection, but started to scream that if it is under the bathtub they want $3000, and not $1600 if it would be in front of the bathtub. They even didn't worry about their mistake, from my point of view it is unprofessional.
If a Plumber ever says your floor needs to be Jack Hammered in order to fix it punch him in the face but don't hire him. It could be minerals in the soil corroding the pipe. You could push pex through the copper pipe and they do make it small enough to go through 1/2" copper also.
How do you get to pex pipe to come up to the the sinks and shower faucets and the commode Inlet through the floor and what about the feed line to the hot water heater and could PEX be put through galvanized pipe? It looked like though he was using some other kind of tubing besides pex. It look like some kind of silicone tubing.
I find it very upsetting when someone gives misleading information. Please tell me where to get tubing which will turn at fittings when pushed inside old tubing... For this to work the old tube must be a straight run. And the work under the slab is almost definitely not a straight run. And to add another factor,. I believe if it was coiled copper with all of its curves (because you can't straighten the line to perfect) there is going to be a lot of friction making the job hard if not impossible.
What type of tubing did you use it doesn't look like PEX look like silicone or something and how did you get to tubing the come up to the faucets and the commode and the shower? Also could that be done with galvanized pipe, running tubing inside of it?
I’ve fixed a couple slab leaks recently that were on 3/4 pex pipe. Got lucky and was able to just run a piece of 1/2 pex inside the 3/4 and come out the other side where I could tie into. Homeowner never noticed a difference in water pressure. Of course it only works if it was a continuous run of pipe, if there are any fittings along the way then the 1/2 pipe won’t go thru those. Sure beat having to bust up their concrete floors inside the house
thank you for taking your time to sheering your water leak experience it was very explanatory video thanks again.
Thanks for the helpful video. Haven't heard the word "lavatory" in a while.
shark bite fitting cannot be concealed in walls or below slab and sleeving any tubing pushed thru 1/2 copper is Too Small ,but go head and follow th is example , you get what you pay for
Helpful video. The green on the copper manifolds is excess flux from sloppy installation work. It gets into the pipe and over time can cause erosion in the copper pipe walls and leaks.
Also, I trust a pex crimp to last like a soldered joint (if done correctly) but I am not convinced the shark-bite's rubber seal will hold long enough to justify using. Those shark-bite fittings have been around maybe 15 years so time will tell. The fittings will not slip but I question the longevity of using a rubber type seal to hold tight inside a wall for the next 25-50 years. Thanks
How do I find the manifold where all those copper lines are?
This method will only work if there are no fittings below the slab. Here in Florida, they will make their branches under the slab. That means 'tee's are buried too.
I have seen this method used on 3/4" piping but the plumber used PEX tubing snaked withing the broken 3/4" pipe, a more robust material rather than vinyl water tubing such as this fellow is using. The clear tubing he's showing is not rated for this kind of pressure. The PEX tubing was 1/2".
Ide imagine your mistaken on the pipe sizes, a 3/4 pex line will not fit through a 3/4 pipe of any material, you would have to reduce down to 1/2” or maybe 3/8” pex to fit through a 3/4” pipe, then you would be left with a lower volume of water at the fixtures it feeds...its better to eliminate the broken line in the ground and run a new same size pex line overhead through the attic or walls
so did he have to open the slab at any point???
@@albertolara3817 Reroute is only considered based on what its feeding. If you have a 3/4 hot feeding your bathroom you have no reason to cut up and reroute. Half in will do the trick without you noticing.
Sir, thank you very much for the film. I can't understand, where to connect the second part of that red pipe, how do you know, should you connect it to the kitchen sink or where the washer is, where? I saw the second part of your film, but still don't know where that red pipe ends : kitchen, laundry room, where? We have a slab leak in the bathroom, we removed a bathtub, and in the hole under the sink of the bathtub a water comes slowly on the bottom, like after one hour of opened water (we keep it closed all the time, but ~1 hour in the morning, we have bad leak, 6 gallons/min). I did a lot of plumbing in the house (I changed all the compression valves, all faucets, changed garbage disposal and kitchen sink, changed hose under the dishwasher, changed toilet, trying to eliminate all possible small leaks and update everything for more fancy staff at the same time). I didn't want to do that rerouting, because I think under the slab repair is better and no water is above your head, though we live in Dallas, and many companies recommended this variant (they charge here 2.5 thousands). I didn't want to spend 2.5 thousands for something I don't like and was looking for the ways to repair under the slab (they come with charges ~4-5 thousands (we are on the budget), and they don't know exactly where it is (with hydrostatic equipment and electronic as well, 2 very reputable companies), so it might be multiple holes, before they find the location of the leak exactly). But here I saw your film, and you said that anyone who can do faucets can do this job, so I want to try to do it myself. Please can you explain where do you end up with that red pipe exactly, you start from the pipe in the bathroom, I saw those pipes in our bathroom as well, but where to end up? Yes, and I worked in the attic as well, since there was a need to change the busted electric box for one fan. I think I can do it if have more information. Thank you again.
We're in Dallas also where did you get those plumbers what's their names that gave those estimate
We are in Dallas also one of those plumbers name begins those estimates are about Catholic buses without we are in Dallas also what are those plumbers name that gave those estimates are about half as much more or less as what we were gotten. We have galvanized piping in the slab which might make a difference.
Dear Mr. Duke, thank you very much for your concerns. We succeeded to repair the leak (cold water, under the wall separating 2 bathrooms, on the depth ~2 feet). We removed the bathtub, made the hole in the concrete, saw the pipe (it was sleeved all the way, that's why was difficult to detect), but didn't see the hole yet. At this point we hoped to detect more accurately, but were ripped off by "ACCU-FIND Slab Leak", who pointed the location of the bubble from the compressor like a leak, and it was just a hole in the sleeve at that place, and those "experts" on SL-s acted like they saw a sleeved pipe first time in their life. Then Roto Rooter's Plumbing (they detected most accurately), teared off that sleeve and the bubble moved to the corner of the bathtub of course. I suggested to do tunneling, which was done, hole was found and soldered. So we are O'K now, but plumbers, who soldered it were able to cut and replace only like 2 feet of that pipe, and they said the condition of it is not very good. What worries me that the soldering done was just soft soldering (not silver), and condition of the whole pipe of course. In the future I would like to replace the whole under slab pipe, but to do that procedure I need to do reroute at least at that area, to switch that way, when repair under the slab is taking place. In other words I'm thinking about additional attic line (for additional safety reasons), which can be switched off and on when needed. Do you think it is possible? And I want to do it myself, since we spent all of our budget for the repair described above. Yes and a company which detected the leak just in the wrong location originally was Baker's Brothers. When I called them and told that the leak is not in front of the bathtub, but rather under it, somewhere in the corner, they even didn't apologize for the wrong detection, but started to scream that if it is under the bathtub they want $3000, and not $1600 if it would be in front of the bathtub. They even didn't worry about their mistake, from my point of view it is unprofessional.
Plastic pipe and chintzy fittings are just waiting to fail. Use copper.
If a Plumber ever says your floor needs to be Jack Hammered in order to fix it punch him in the face but don't hire him. It could be minerals in the soil corroding the pipe. You could push pex through the copper pipe and they do make it small enough to go through 1/2" copper also.
How do you get to pex pipe to come up to the the sinks and shower faucets and the commode Inlet through the floor and what about the feed line to the hot water heater and could PEX be put through galvanized pipe? It looked like though he was using some other kind of tubing besides pex. It look like some kind of silicone tubing.
I find it very upsetting when someone gives misleading information. Please tell me where to get tubing which will turn at fittings when pushed inside old tubing... For this to work the old tube must be a straight run. And the work under the slab is almost definitely not a straight run. And to add another factor,. I believe if it was coiled copper with all of its curves (because you can't straighten the line to perfect) there is going to be a lot of friction making the job hard if not impossible.
I this is old but search Mike Morrison in the comments they explained how to push it with joints I just read it
vermin will chew pex.....
Hot water heater?
He means water heater.
Hot water heater??? Why heat hot water?
do rats or squirrels chew on that pets pipe?
Do you keep rats or squirrels as pets?
you cut both.
Please leave fixing water leaks to the professionals
LOL Running the Dryer and talking over the noise..
Lol
TO CONTINUE WITH PART 2 TYPE IN Part 2: HOW TO FIND/FIX SLAB FOUNDATION WATER LEAK
What type of tubing did you use it doesn't look like PEX look like silicone or something and how did you get to tubing the come up to the faucets and the commode and the shower? Also could that be done with galvanized pipe, running tubing inside of it?