Thank you for making this. I watched this several times as I tore apart a parts gun I picked up. Mine has significant pitting and rust but is cleaning up fairly nicely and has a surprisingly nice looking bore. Will likely refer back to your video more in the future. Nicely done.
I tell you what , that was very interesting ! I love old guns and the way you stripped her down and cleaned it , she come up really well !!! Thanks for the video 👍
Just got one of these a few months ago for my dad. Found it at Cabelas, it’s in similar condition like yours, except it’s been scrubbed here and there. I like it a lot. Good little rifle
I don't know if all were made without markings, I've got a really beat up 1916 that was made in 1934 at Oviedo. It was never rechambered to 7.62 and is still in the original 7mm so that might be why it kept the crest and year of manufacture.
I got mine in the 90s for $59 American. It has matching numbers, and the cartouche is intact. I'm considering building a custom .250 Savage or .257 Roberts on the action. 260 Rem is another option that would eliminate any bolt face work.
G'day Doug. The 260 would be interesting to me for sure, particularly because I like 6.5x55 Swedish as an efficient calibre, I think 260 would have similar ballistics.
I see your tang spacer just fell out of the stock it shouldn’t come out of the stock epoxy it in as any mouvement can and will crack the stock during shooting , have a great 👍 day Aussie
I agree, I was very surprised that the barrel was not rusty, but also no sign of older pitting too. My Spanish carbine had a lot of rust underneath the stock but it wasn’t too badly pitted though.
Very interesting clip. I have 93 Police Carbine, I believe; without the bayonet furniture. It has been sporterized, rechambered for 7.62 NATO and has a forward mounted Leupold LER pistol scope. I only use cast bullet handloads; excellent for feral cats and foxes.
Obtained one of these in 1996 for $140 in 7.62x 51mm. Four ways I made it a much better rifle: removed the ramp rear sight and replaced with a fully adjustable Lyman peep sight tapped into the rear ring of the receiver to increase sight radius, polished the bolt, filled the rear portion of the mag well with a piece of plastic and epoxy to make it feed better with 7.62 rounds, put a dab of high contrast orange paint on the tip of the front sight. With light hand loads it will now consistently shoot 2inch groups at 100 meters
Hi Schinderia, I have noticed that my magazine follower doesn't seem to be long enough for the magazine size, which I thought would cause issues. However, mine still feeds without any problems, probably due to the brilliance of the Mauser design.
@@practicalnottactical These rifles were originally chambered in 7x57 (8mm Mauser) so the mag wells were for the longer cartridge length. My impression is that when they replaced the barrels in the 50s to adopt 7.62 NATO they replace the follower too and hoped they would feed decently. As you probably know they eventually went with the CETME and these rifles went into storage. I was lucky to find one in excellent condition. Cheers
@@schinderiapraemeturus6239 I don't buy into the idea that these rifles were designed or expected to shoot 7.62 CETME. I have not seen any writing that suggests that the CETME ammo was expected to be used in anything other than the CETME rifle. I have read that the CETME rifle had its design flaws, which meant that it didn't function well when operated with 7.62 NATO ammo. The CETME, being a semi-auto would be reliant that the ammo used is not too soft or too hot to reliably cycle the semi-auto action. I don't buy into the wives tales, which only appear in US online forums, that the Mauser small ring rifles are unable to handle 7.62 NATO ammo. The proof ammo used when they were manufactured would have been more than double the pressure of any ammo expected to be consumed during normal operation. Open for discussion, but hey, right now I'm not convinced about the whole CETME ammo and weak Mauser action debate.
@@practicalnottactical Well we do have our share of wives tales over here, Lol. I think the debates, and I have seen several videos here on TH-cam and various forum posts-are much ado over nothing. Will these 1916s handle the pressure of full power military 7.62 NATO rounds? Absolutely-the actions are immensely strong and again these rifles were originally chambered in 8mm Mauser-which arguably develops higher pressure than 7.62mm. I did have a serious issue with this rifle when I first got in and was breaking it in. Started out with full power 7.62 Cavim NATO, some Federal ball 7.62, no problems-good accuracy but these rounds kicked pretty hard. One day i took the 1916 to the range and tried some Winchester .308, 175grn polymer tipped hunting loads. noticed right away I was having a bit of trouble pushing the bolt all the way home and closing the breech with these rounds, lots of resistance trying to lock it. This should have tipped me off. On the 3rd or 4th shot, after firing-I could not open the bolt-totally locked up. I had to take it home, put the rifle in a vice, find a long steel pipe and insert of end of it over the bolt handle-then use the pipe for leverage to open the bolt-then use a rubber mallet to bang it back and in the process of doing this, the extractor claw ripped through the rim on the cartridge (and then the bolt opened quite easily lol). So now I had very stuck case it the chamber, couldn't pry it out with a screwdriver. I ended up having to get a special stuck case removal jig that is actually ingenious but involves drilling a hole through the primer and base of the case and tapping the hole with threads to use a rod/cup to extract it. Then I hit the books, and learned that the one key dimensional difference between 7.62 and .308 is the shoulder, the latter is more tapered and narrow. The 7.62 military rounds I had been using were 147 ball, so what I think happened was trying to use rnds with a longer bullet, the ogive on the 175grn was encounter the rifle lands at the chamber throat and becoming a rather tight squeeze which explained why I was having so much trouble closing the bolt. I believe that narrower shoulder on the .308 caused the other problem, it expanded upon firing into the very slight gap in the chamber throat, and this expansion locked the case. so end of story, I ONLY use once fired military 7.62mm cases anymore (I picked up 2K of those many years ago) and I handload these for light pressures, around 90% of a full power load. It will shoot both 147 ball and cast 125 lead with a gas check just fine and I have been happy with the 1916 ever since. sorry for my digression but perhaps you or someone else will benefit from my painful experience with that stuck case!
Depends where you are, if in US then probably pretty easy, but if in Australia you could put an ad in the SSAA online gun sales site. You should find someone who knows somebody with one.
Excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to show all of the steps involved in the disassembly. You also included some advice about the parts that are more prone to be stuck or finicky. I just picked up one of these a week ago and haven't had time yet to tear it down and clean it. I'm watching videos, though, like yours, and feel much better about what I might encounter. Mine doesn't have any manufacturer, date, or caliber markings on it. If you slide a 7 mm Mauser cartridge in the chamber it rattles around pretty loosely, so I'm assuming mine was changed to 7.62 x 51 NATO. I understand that some were changed to 8 mm, though, so I think I'll take it to a gunsmith and find out for sure before I try to fire it. These are beautiful rifles, in my opinion, and I'm delighted to have picked one up. I'm hoping it will shoot as well as it looks. Thanks again for the helpful video!
I'm told that I havean 1893 Spanish Mauser. It is a single shot bolt action. However, everyone I see has a magazine. So I'm not sure what I have. Any help would be appreciated greatly.
Nice work mate, you can also use Kerosene for the metal clean up. If you haven't already get onto Mark Novak's channel, he has great vids on old gun cleanups/restos & repairs!
Hi Ronnie. An original Spanish 1893 will have a straight bolt handle, whereas the Spanish 1895 carbine and Spanish pattern 1916 both have turned down bolts. All bolts will fit and function with all three model rifles. Even the bolt from my 1895 Chilean will fit and function with these rifles because it has a round bolt face. However, the Spanish bolts will not fit into any other model Mauser because of that distinctive flat edge on the bolt face, requiring the subsequent cut in the rear of the receiver to fit the flat edge. The pre '98 Mausers look the same at first glance, but they have differences in the size and shape of the receiver tang among other things like different shaped guide rails and cuts in the receiver bridge.
@@hobbie9071 I believe you are correct, but not all Boer Mausers were m93s as the two Boer Republics purchased mauser rifles and carbines over the duration of the m95 transition. I have also read that some rifles intended for other customers were diverted to the Boer Republics, and still had the national crests of those other country.
Hello Gianni, I probably don't have any helpful advice different than what you have already tried. All I can say is that the pin would not easily remove due to corrosion or misalignment. Try soaking with a penetrating oil and drive with a small punch from both sides to get some movement.
Thank you for sharing this. I recently picked up one of these rifles, and it appears to be in great shape overall. Do you happen to know what I should look for when trying to find a sling for this rifle? I've seen several options on Liberty Tree, but I'm not sure which is the right choice for this particular mounting hardware.
I too came across a Spanish M1916 for a good value, your video has helped me tremendously. Thank you!
Thank you for making this. I watched this several times as I tore apart a parts gun I picked up. Mine has significant pitting and rust but is cleaning up fairly nicely and has a surprisingly nice looking bore. Will likely refer back to your video more in the future. Nicely done.
I’m glad I could help Ben, thanks for your support.
Hey there! I just wanted to say that this video was super helpful and informative, and was a huge life-saver in getting my rifle apart. Thanks again!
Too easy Rob, thanks for your feedback.
Thank you for showing me how to disassemble and field strip this rifle.
Thank you for the video. I have one with all matching numbers and this helped me learn more about it. Mine has been rechambered for .308
I tell you what , that was very interesting ! I love old guns and the way you stripped her down and cleaned it , she come up really well !!! Thanks for the video 👍
Thanks for the support Shane'o, I'm glad you enjoyed the content.
Just got one of these a few months ago for my dad. Found it at Cabelas, it’s in similar condition like yours, except it’s been scrubbed here and there. I like it a lot. Good little rifle
Thank you for the good video, I just picked one of these up.
I purchased one up from a store whose owner is a veteran. It is well preserved.
Nice find
nice rifle, gotta love new gun day 🍻
A very nice rifle .
I don't know if all were made without markings, I've got a really beat up 1916 that was made in 1934 at Oviedo. It was never rechambered to 7.62 and is still in the original 7mm so that might be why it kept the crest and year of manufacture.
I got mine in the 90s for $59 American. It has matching numbers, and the cartouche is intact. I'm considering building a custom .250 Savage or .257 Roberts on the action. 260 Rem is another option that would eliminate any bolt face work.
G'day Doug. The 260 would be interesting to me for sure, particularly because I like 6.5x55 Swedish as an efficient calibre, I think 260 would have similar ballistics.
I see your tang spacer just fell out of the stock it shouldn’t come out of the stock epoxy it in as any mouvement can and will crack the stock during shooting , have a great 👍 day Aussie
You lucked out these Spanish mausers almost always have rust and pitting underneath the stock on the barrel . Nice pickup
I agree, I was very surprised that the barrel was not rusty, but also no sign of older pitting too. My Spanish carbine had a lot of rust underneath the stock but it wasn’t too badly pitted though.
@@practicalnottactical I love these weapons that are works of art.
Very interesting clip.
I have 93 Police Carbine, I believe; without the bayonet furniture.
It has been sporterized, rechambered for 7.62 NATO and has a forward mounted Leupold LER pistol scope.
I only use cast bullet handloads; excellent for feral cats and foxes.
A handy Aussie bush carbine !!
.
Nice purchase
Cheers, thanks Rene.
Nice pickup. I have one in the way if the post would ever deliver. Thur citing delays due to the cough.
Awesome man, let us know when you get the rifle and what you think about it.
Obtained one of these in 1996 for $140 in 7.62x 51mm. Four ways I made it a much better rifle: removed the ramp rear sight and replaced with a fully adjustable Lyman peep sight tapped into the rear ring of the receiver to increase sight radius, polished the bolt, filled the rear portion of the mag well with a piece of plastic and epoxy to make it feed better with 7.62 rounds, put a dab of high contrast orange paint on the tip of the front sight. With light hand loads it will now consistently shoot 2inch groups at 100 meters
Hi Schinderia, I have noticed that my magazine follower doesn't seem to be long enough for the magazine size, which I thought would cause issues. However, mine still feeds without any problems, probably due to the brilliance of the Mauser design.
@@practicalnottactical These rifles were originally chambered in 7x57 (8mm Mauser) so the mag wells were for the longer cartridge length. My impression is that when they replaced the barrels in the 50s to adopt 7.62 NATO they replace the follower too and hoped they would feed decently. As you probably know they eventually went with the CETME and these rifles went into storage. I was lucky to find one in excellent condition. Cheers
@@schinderiapraemeturus6239 I don't buy into the idea that these rifles were designed or expected to shoot 7.62 CETME. I have not seen any writing that suggests that the CETME ammo was expected to be used in anything other than the CETME rifle. I have read that the CETME rifle had its design flaws, which meant that it didn't function well when operated with 7.62 NATO ammo. The CETME, being a semi-auto would be reliant that the ammo used is not too soft or too hot to reliably cycle the semi-auto action. I don't buy into the wives tales, which only appear in US online forums, that the Mauser small ring rifles are unable to handle 7.62 NATO ammo. The proof ammo used when they were manufactured would have been more than double the pressure of any ammo expected to be consumed during normal operation. Open for discussion, but hey, right now I'm not convinced about the whole CETME ammo and weak Mauser action debate.
@@practicalnottactical Well we do have our share of wives tales over here, Lol. I think the debates, and I have seen several videos here on TH-cam and various forum posts-are much ado over nothing. Will these 1916s handle the pressure of full power military 7.62 NATO rounds? Absolutely-the actions are immensely strong and again these rifles were originally chambered in 8mm Mauser-which arguably develops higher pressure than 7.62mm. I did have a serious issue with this rifle when I first got in and was breaking it in. Started out with full power 7.62 Cavim NATO, some Federal ball 7.62, no problems-good accuracy but these rounds kicked pretty hard. One day i took the 1916 to the range and tried some Winchester .308, 175grn polymer tipped hunting loads. noticed right away I was having a bit of trouble pushing the bolt all the way home and closing the breech with these rounds, lots of resistance trying to lock it. This should have tipped me off. On the 3rd or 4th shot, after firing-I could not open the bolt-totally locked up. I had to take it home, put the rifle in a vice, find a long steel pipe and insert of end of it over the bolt handle-then use the pipe for leverage to open the bolt-then use a rubber mallet to bang it back and in the process of doing this, the extractor claw ripped through the rim on the cartridge (and then the bolt opened quite easily lol). So now I had very stuck case it the chamber, couldn't pry it out with a screwdriver. I ended up having to get a special stuck case removal jig that is actually ingenious but involves drilling a hole through the primer and base of the case and tapping the hole with threads to use a rod/cup to extract it. Then I hit the books, and learned that the one key dimensional difference between 7.62 and .308 is the shoulder, the latter is more tapered and narrow. The 7.62 military rounds I had been using were 147 ball, so what I think happened was trying to use rnds with a longer bullet, the ogive on the 175grn was encounter the rifle lands at the chamber throat and becoming a rather tight squeeze which explained why I was having so much trouble closing the bolt. I believe that narrower shoulder on the .308 caused the other problem, it expanded upon firing into the very slight gap in the chamber throat, and this expansion locked the case. so end of story, I ONLY use once fired military 7.62mm cases anymore (I picked up 2K of those many years ago) and I handload these for light pressures, around 90% of a full power load. It will shoot both 147 ball and cast 125 lead with a gas check just fine and I have been happy with the 1916 ever since. sorry for my digression but perhaps you or someone else will benefit from my painful experience with that stuck case!
I think you are absolutely correct in your diagnosis, the long 175gr projectile was too long for the NATO chamber. Thanks for your contribution.
How do you remove the floor plate catch on that style of magazine ?
Great video. I have just acquired one but, it is missing the cleaning rod. Any ideas where I could get one?
Depends where you are, if in US then probably pretty easy, but if in Australia you could put an ad in the SSAA online gun sales site. You should find someone who knows somebody with one.
I was hoping to see trigger disassembly
Be nice if they could track the history of these firearms. Just wonder the the action these rifles have seen!
Spanish civil war and North Africa n. Riff war
I'm trying to get one of these together
Excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to show all of the steps involved in the disassembly. You also included some advice about the parts that are more prone to be stuck or finicky. I just picked up one of these a week ago and haven't had time yet to tear it down and clean it. I'm watching videos, though, like yours, and feel much better about what I might encounter. Mine doesn't have any manufacturer, date, or caliber markings on it. If you slide a 7 mm Mauser cartridge in the chamber it rattles around pretty loosely, so I'm assuming mine was changed to 7.62 x 51 NATO. I understand that some were changed to 8 mm, though, so I think I'll take it to a gunsmith and find out for sure before I try to fire it.
These are beautiful rifles, in my opinion, and I'm delighted to have picked one up. I'm hoping it will shoot as well as it looks.
Thanks again for the helpful video!
I'm told that I havean 1893 Spanish Mauser. It is a single shot bolt action. However, everyone I see has a magazine. So I'm not sure what I have. Any help would be appreciated greatly.
Earlier 1871 Mauser were single shot, but I don’t think these were ever adopted by Spain. What calibre is it?
Are you from Australia?
Nice work mate, you can also use Kerosene for the metal clean up.
If you haven't already get onto Mark Novak's channel, he has great vids on old gun cleanups/restos & repairs!
Thanks PMG. I often look at Mark’s channel too, there is a lot to be learned from his videos, all very interesting.
@@practicalnottactical Mate, I could watch Mark fix a doll house!!!
Oh man, you made me laugh!! I totally get it.
WD40 is an excellent rust penetraitor.
The bolt on the 1893 is always straight or could it be correct with a turn down bolt?
Hi Ronnie. An original Spanish 1893 will have a straight bolt handle, whereas the Spanish 1895 carbine and Spanish pattern 1916 both have turned down bolts. All bolts will fit and function with all three model rifles. Even the bolt from my 1895 Chilean will fit and function with these rifles because it has a round bolt face. However, the Spanish bolts will not fit into any other model Mauser because of that distinctive flat edge on the bolt face, requiring the subsequent cut in the rear of the receiver to fit the flat edge. The pre '98 Mausers look the same at first glance, but they have differences in the size and shape of the receiver tang among other things like different shaped guide rails and cuts in the receiver bridge.
@@practicalnottactical I may be wrong, but I think the Mausers of the Boer republics had a similar bolt face. They were also m93s.
@@hobbie9071 I believe you are correct, but not all Boer Mausers were m93s as the two Boer Republics purchased mauser rifles and carbines over the duration of the m95 transition. I have also read that some rifles intended for other customers were diverted to the Boer Republics, and still had the national crests of those other country.
Been pounding at the front sight guard pin for days now. Any advice?
Hello Gianni, I probably don't have any helpful advice different than what you have already tried. All I can say is that the pin would not easily remove due to corrosion or misalignment. Try soaking with a penetrating oil and drive with a small punch from both sides to get some movement.
@@practicalnottactical I’ll try that thanks
Sweeet!
7 x 57 mm
Es el más feo de los Mauser. Cómo el Remington Rolling Block fabricado en España es el más ordinario de los Rolling Block.
Nice find
Nice werk mate. I had mine rebuilt about 2019/20.
Thank you for sharing this. I recently picked up one of these rifles, and it appears to be in great shape overall. Do you happen to know what I should look for when trying to find a sling for this rifle? I've seen several options on Liberty Tree, but I'm not sure which is the right choice for this particular mounting hardware.
I would be looking for an original Spanish sling, however, if you cant find one, just about any sling would work if you still wanted to use one.
رؤؤؤؤؤؤعه رؤؤؤؤؤؤعه احسنت النشر