Appreciate the video! I just did both sides and it was a breeze! I took off the bracket that hold the pads which seemed to help with putting new clips in without all the reach around
@@jasonjohnson9403 I removed the dust boot which is the piece that is still on the rotor on 1:00 of the video! Just remove the two bolts and it will come off! Remember to replace the tabs the same way they came off with the pointy side facing away from the rotor. Put it back on the rotor with the new clips installed and then add the new pads but be careful I caught my finger on the pointy side of the tab 😅 put the depressed caliper back on and your lubbed up bolts and you're good to go. If you hear a grind from the right passenger rear its either your dust shield rubbing on rotor or your park brake is rubbing. Don't worry basically all park brakes are garbage and it'll go away 🤣
That rotor needed changing. Tundra rear brake wears like crap. The inner pad wears off while the outer does not so you need to check the inner side of the rotor!
Really good video. So you don't feel it's necessary to turn the rotors? I'm hearing both sides on this question. Dealer now wanna put new rotors along with pads. BS on that one.
To turn rotors is when it warped only. If not warped why need to turn rotors. now day rotor can not turn so many time. why waste my money to turn rotors that not necessarily. Some brake shop and dealer not make enough money just change brake pad. To add additional work is the most money. Thanks for watching please help subscribe to keep my channel growing my friend.
Personally I would never turn them no matter what. Just replace them. Turning is so expensive anyway you are saving a few dollars but getting a thinner rotor which means your pads need to reach further which means worse braking performance and you will need to replace your pads sooner in the future.
The best to use is the C-clamp. Do not force the piston back in crooked or it may bind and score the piston and/or cylinder. Very good informative video of changing the pads.
I gotta say, WAY COOL CAMERA WORK THERE WITH SLIDING THE JACK OUT!! Totally cool “HOLLYWOOD” camera work buddy! Oh, and thanks for MM size needed to flip the caliper up too. I knew my back pads were going bad with all the noise they were making at 115,000 miles. Backing out of a driveway today I heard a “Clunk” and found a pad laying on the ground. That’s bad, right? Just kidding! My 2010 tundra has been flawless EXCEPT the front brakes are garbage. Fought with “Stealership” at 4000, 7000 and 12,000 miles to get them to repair them (warped rotors). After the last time I said F-IT, did my homework and found cryogenic drilled & slotted rotors and the LTS (?) something or other “badass” front pads. 113,000 miles later, front STILL stops on a dime, no “warping” or wobble. I’m just throwing pads in from A-Zone today and ordering the cryogenic drilled & slotted rotors and badass pads for back of Amazon. Good tip on lifting wheel & tire too buddy. People don’t think about that kinda stuff. THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO!!
@@alltsab yes and no my friend. I have done so with my STILL perfect 1989 Toyota xcab 2x4 with "local" lifetime warranty that I've definitely recoved initial "parts" investment. With my Tundra it's a bit different. Haven't had ANY issues except brakes and it was 95% front ones. After I said screw the STEALERSHIP and put cryo slotted & drilled rotors on I've had ZERO issues for 100k miles. Ironically, local Auto-Z has discontinued the REAL GOOD rear rotors. So I "pad" the factory rears until I can afford the cryo drilled & slotted rotors and then hit them up for "warranty" on new pads😎😎
Great video! Exactly what I needed to replace my back brakes quickly. They rest of the videos seem to be taking the caliper off which does not seem to be needed, so I like your way much better.
Thanks buddy, I like the way you encourage people to do the job and not be afraid of it, you even suggest different ways to tackle things if you're not able/don't have tools...Well done thanks a lot!
Are shims included with the rear brake pads? Thanks.
Not this one but you can buy the one xome with it.
Do this work same thing with the 2017 tocomas? Pls respond back
If you have drum brake then different. If dish brake then yes
Replace the rotors too. Especially if it went metal to metal.
where can I find that jack? What’s the brand
Harbor freight Daytona
Thank you for the simple instructions and not spending too much time yammering on.
❤ what a great video
You welcome 😘
Good instruction on your video, appreciate it........
Thanks
Appreciate the video! I just did both sides and it was a breeze! I took off the bracket that hold the pads which seemed to help with putting new clips in without all the reach around
@@jasonjohnson9403 I removed the dust boot which is the piece that is still on the rotor on 1:00 of the video! Just remove the two bolts and it will come off! Remember to replace the tabs the same way they came off with the pointy side facing away from the rotor. Put it back on the rotor with the new clips installed and then add the new pads but be careful I caught my finger on the pointy side of the tab 😅 put the depressed caliper back on and your lubbed up bolts and you're good to go. If you hear a grind from the right passenger rear its either your dust shield rubbing on rotor or your park brake is rubbing. Don't worry basically all park brakes are garbage and it'll go away 🤣
Do we need to replace the drum too? Because all I have are the brakes...
That rotor needed changing. Tundra rear brake wears like crap. The inner pad wears off while the outer does not so you need to check the inner side of the rotor!
Really good video. So you don't feel it's necessary to turn the rotors? I'm hearing both sides on this question. Dealer now wanna put new rotors along with pads. BS on that one.
To turn rotors is when it warped only. If not warped why need to turn rotors. now day rotor can not turn so many time. why waste my money to turn rotors that not necessarily. Some brake shop and dealer not make enough money just change brake pad. To add additional work is the most money. Thanks for watching please help subscribe to keep my channel growing my friend.
Personally I would never turn them no matter what. Just replace them. Turning is so expensive anyway you are saving a few dollars but getting a thinner rotor which means your pads need to reach further which means worse braking performance and you will need to replace your pads sooner in the future.
Replace when warped only. I agree
Good video. Subscribed
Thanks
The best to use is the C-clamp.
Do not force the piston back in crooked or it may bind and score the piston and/or cylinder.
Very good informative video of changing the pads.
thanks your video
How are you liking that Daytona Jack? I saw one and I may buy it.
Love it
Great demo! Thank you, friend!!
What kind of dewalt are you using? I’m looking to buy one.
Dc899b 20v max xr
I gotta say, WAY COOL CAMERA WORK THERE WITH SLIDING THE JACK OUT!! Totally cool “HOLLYWOOD” camera work buddy! Oh, and thanks for MM size needed to flip the caliper up too. I knew my back pads were going bad with all the noise they were making at 115,000 miles. Backing out of a driveway today I heard a “Clunk” and found a pad laying on the ground. That’s bad, right? Just kidding! My 2010 tundra has been flawless EXCEPT the front brakes are garbage. Fought with “Stealership” at 4000, 7000 and 12,000 miles to get them to repair them (warped rotors). After the last time I said F-IT, did my homework and found cryogenic drilled & slotted rotors and the LTS (?) something or other “badass” front pads. 113,000 miles later, front STILL stops on a dime, no “warping” or wobble. I’m just throwing pads in from A-Zone today and ordering the cryogenic drilled & slotted rotors and badass pads for back of Amazon.
Good tip on lifting wheel & tire too buddy. People don’t think about that kinda stuff.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO!!
U are funny my friend. You should buy brake bad from auto part it will last you for life time. It save a lot money buy from your local auto part.
@@alltsab yes and no my friend. I have done so with my STILL perfect 1989 Toyota xcab 2x4 with "local" lifetime warranty that I've definitely recoved initial "parts" investment. With my Tundra it's a bit different. Haven't had ANY issues except brakes and it was 95% front ones. After I said screw the STEALERSHIP and put cryo slotted & drilled rotors on I've had ZERO issues for 100k miles.
Ironically, local Auto-Z has discontinued the REAL GOOD rear rotors. So I "pad" the factory rears until I can afford the cryo drilled & slotted rotors and then hit them up for "warranty" on new pads😎😎
Your inside brake pad wore down to the metal. Why wouldn't you turn the rotors?
i did recommend it but the owner in a rush he need the truck right away so that why i didn't turn it. thanks for comment i very appreciate.
@@alltsab the own will be back in a couple months
No torq specs..pad slap. Video sub par.
Great video! Exactly what I needed to replace my back brakes quickly. They rest of the videos seem to be taking the caliper off which does not seem to be needed, so I like your way much better.
Brent Lee thanks
Thanks buddy, I like the way you encourage people to do the job and not be afraid of it, you even suggest different ways to tackle things if you're not able/don't have tools...Well done thanks a lot!
Mike Kaz thanks for your comments I very appreciate.
helpful. thank you
With your help I was able to replace my rear brake pads thanks....saved$$
Alfa All Day you welcome, thanks for stop by my channel. It's a lot more videos coming in the future.
Good quick, to the point video. Don't forget to pump brake pedal before driving to get the caliper pistons engaged again.
I use cross bar to lift tire by laying it on ground, roll tire onto cross bar and lift end of bar. you may have to rotate tire to align studs.
Awesome, thanks partner! Was worried about the decompressing the piston part since I don’t have a special tool for it.
If you compress the piston without opening the bleeder you just fucked up your ABS
Thank you!! I'm a macho man. 🤣
You welcome
I've seen yours and another video don'tyou need to bleed the lines when you push back the piston in place.
Absolutely no. You bleed only when you air in the line.
Made look nice and simple thx!
What are the torque specs for the pins and the caliper to the knuckle?
Great job!
IM a nacho man LOL