I have this sword. I will say, that after several years of use, the grip and cross guard have developed a slight rattle, but it is a good, strong piece for the money. It's a little heavy, which is weird, because once you get this thing moving, it is wicked fast. ***EDIT*** I wanted to add that this sword is capable of taking a very sharp edge (or two!) if you're willing to put the time into it. Mine is so sharp that I kind of dread oiling/maintaining it. Two razor sharp edges can be really scary, especially given how easily they'll bite right through oil cloths.
Congratulations! What a review !!! There are no reviews of swords of this quality on the Internet. For all the clear, concise, numerous and well technical and historical information. But also for how it shows the weapon, so much and in detail and for the fantastic cuts. Scholagladiatoria is at a much higher level compared to other historical weapons youtubers what I have been able to find, I do not understand how it does not have 200 times more views than some of very low level.
@@scholagladiatoria hi When you said you feel it's a little too heavy do you mean for the xiv type or just your personal preference? Wondering as I know you are a cutlass fan & I thought that the British types I often see in your videos that you like are heavier at a similar size.
Matt test cutting to a vaguely edgy hip hop-inspired selection of music in slow motion gives me distinct Office Space copier beat down vibes. I'm 100% for it.
I've had this exact sword for a while now and even did a review on it! It is one of my project swords (still need to appleseed the edge) and an integral part of my early 14th C impression! DONT GET RID OF THE SCABBARD! Just take the chape off! I did and it looks fantastic once you apply some black paint to the bare leather. Cheers!
@@scholagladiatoria Well, aside from the fact that they wouldn't be representative of the actual product for buyers. They'd be representative -compared to other best picks-, but not for what the average consumer is getting.
@@TheDickBurglar I have purchased at least 5 Windlass swords over the last 15 years and have not gotten a bad one. I have never opted for the factory sharpening, I have always heard it is not the best and if I have to touch it up might as well do the whole thing.
It’s back!! This guy was discontinued up to a year ago on museumreplicas, but you can always contact Windlass directly and they’ll send you an item off the warehouse. A few things from my experience with it: first of all, I got it edgeless which was a decision made at a time when I was pretty new to HEMA and didn’t want to practice form on a live blade. When I did Iai a few years ago, I was pretty keen on having a steel iaito, and this sword is basically that. It’s a sword, with no rounded tip, and a butter knife edge. It’s HEAVY, but moving becomes natural with more use and now it just feels like it’s a part of me. This review is honestly making me want to put an order on a sharp for practice cutting. The next step to this type XIV design is an Albion Yeoman, Sovereign, and Sheriff, but those are four times the price! As far as complaints go, I will note that my particular model came with rust spots on the flat of the blade a couple of inches from the hilt. It exists on both sides, and I’m almost certain it comes from that metal collar around the scabbard that puts some kind of contact pressure on the blade when it’s stored flat for a few days. I’ve buffed the spots out a few times with relative ease, but the spots usually returned on one side after about a week. I make sure to flip the sword like a burger every day or so now to make sure the gravity of it laying flat doesn’t sandwich one side and cause rusting. Thanks to it being a double-edge, you can just remove it from the scabbard and flip it over. Another thing that’s tough to buff is that Windlass logo on the base of the blade. Forum posts seem to suggest that it’s possible to buff out by hand with MetalGlo, but it feels straight up branded on. Maybe a belt sander can take care of it. Without a belt sander I ordered a custom leather rain chape from Etsy under the seller GrommetsLeathercraft to cover the brand and make it more comfortable for bare hand handling. He’s very friendly and will tailor a chape for any sword shape-but he also recently started producing handmade leather scabbards. They don’t have wooden cores like the Windlass, but they’re all-leather and can be made with a historically accurate integrated sword belt for just $100! It’s a great deal and looks amazing. Anyway, thanks for the review! The Windlass catalog has something similar to the type XIV (but looks more like a type Xa) with a brass hilt. Museumreplicas had it under the name “The Sword of Cortenuova,” after the Guelph and Ghibelline conflict of medieval Italy. The brass work looks super cool, but from the scant reviews I could find it has an even worse distal taper and is seemingly blade heavy in comparison to the type XIV.
I have to say I love the metal throat on my 2nd generation Coustille. On mine, I have blued the steel pommel, cross-guard, chape and throat and that made a huge difference in how the piece appeared. Just my feeling about it.😉
A few years ago my brother got me one of these for christmas as my first sword. I couldn't have been happier, and was actually happy that it came blunt so I could solo train (really screwing around with it) with a little more peace of mind that I wouldn't end up with a painful and embarrassing visit to the emergency room.
I have made two simple modifications to my example, that virtually anyone can do. I was intending on blackening the hilt with a cold blueing gel, but I tried it out on just the recessed centre of the pommel. The result looked good, so I left it at that. I added a black leather wrap to the throat of the scabbard, which is more in period. I also gave the wrap the triangular extension over the central part of the cross-guard, when the sword is scabbarded, that is seen so often on c. 1300 representations (and on the few actual examples). The leather was thicker than I think was ideal, but it has made the scabbard throat very robust.
Kult of Athena worked with Windlass to re-release a few of their discontinued models. I picked up the Arbedo and the Towton, absolutely fantastic swords. Also own the Munich which is nice too.
Glad to see you doing reviews of the more economy range swords! I think there's a real need for knowledgeable reviews in that price range, as it is so difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff.
This has always been my favorite pattern. At least, my favorite when it comes to double edged blades. I still love my messers more than anything. That said, I love the look of a broad blade with a pronounced taper, and I like the handling of a meaty, short-ish blade. Give me one of these with a buckler and I'm a happy, happy boy.
Hi Matt! Just with regards to your comments about the secondary bevels, I believe this type of edge is a result of laws in India where these swords are made. Del Tin in Italy has the same issue, local laws preventing them from being built with a properly finished edge.
Thank you for this amazing, detailed review of a budget friendly medieval sword! I especially appreciated the comments with regards to historical accuracy. I'd love to see more videos like this, particularly of European swords around this price point from brands such as Windlass and the Hanwei-Tinker Pearce line.
I ordered one of these today because of you video. And because I've decided to extend my birthday month, and because of the beer. But mostly because of your video. I don't know how I didn't know about these before now?? They are literally my 2nd favorite type.Thank you for such an even handed review. Godspeed.
i own a few Windlass swords! also the longsword from last video....windlass can be hit or miss...they got a few really awesome ones, but there are also bad,whippy ones....in this price range you have to be very aware of what model you are getting....stay save, greets from Solingen!:)
I completely agree. I've seen quite a lot of Windlass models over the years and they are clearly capable of making a really good sword. It's just that you need to look for reviews of the specific models before you buy. This is a good one. I think with further guidance and development, Windlass could make very very good swords. They are clearly capable.
Hey Matt! I hope you won't mind if I throw in some quick physics terminology here. When you say the weight is concentrated 'around the direction you are turning it,' this is called the 'axis of rotation.' Think of this as the line that 'stays still' as you rotate the object. And the thing which is consequently small is the 'moment of inertia.'
I have this sword. And i have unfortunately destruction tested it against some green bamboo. I know it was pretty silly, but i want to share what i have learned pulling it apart. The tang was where it joins the pommel being about 5mmx6mm going into a 8mm round hole. The tang is quite apparently hardened as well(as it cleanly and clearly snapped(even showing some hardening colours on the clean breakage). So I'd say, yeah it looks beautiful, cuts really nice and feels really nice(especially for its price) but do not be putting it against something resistant, not even a mild swing at reasonably soft bamboo. That big heavy pommel sitting on a narrow brittle tang is going to be a killer. Saying that it did cut into the bamboo very well (minus the pommel which thankfully did not land on my foot, its really quite heavy), and the handle assembly was glued together REALLY well. Fortunately i have a functioning and well equipted workshop. If it can't be fixed in the current pattern to satisfaction it will have to be reborn from the ashes as a kick arse sword staff.
That is a very good sword, I have one. I got mine on sale for something just over $100; perhaps $105? As far as Windlass putting a cutting edge on their sword is somewhat out of the question. It has nothing to do with the factory’s manufacturing abilities or the lack thereof. No sword made in India, and Italy, will come sharp from the factory as it’s the law of the land. They are prohibited from doing so. Some vendors offer a sharpening service and in that case you will receive what you have, a $20-$25 edge with a secondary bevel. A professional blade smith will do better but it’s going to cost more, much more when you figure his price plus shipping both ways. In the beginning I used two different vendor’s services and was less than satisfied and now put a convex edge on my swords myself. That steel throat on the sheath maybe necessary in this case as there is no core or other support for the leather in that area and with the grade of leather they use may not hold up alone. I wrapped my grip with cord and that improved the feel. I’ve had mine for several years now and it’s still going strong. It maybe still available over where you are but in the west it has been deleted for several years now and no longer available, a shame.
I need to be in a room with many different swords to handle before I ultimately find the one for me. Watching videos, purchasing random swords without handling them first can only take you so far. As the owner of a Chinese made Japanese crowbar, it became clear to me pretty quickly that not all swords are created equal and that I could spend a fortune before finding one I actually like in my hand.
I have a custom assembled Windlass with the same grip/guard/pommel combo, but with an 83cm (33 inch) blade. I absolutely love it. Handles well and cuts like a beast. The scabbard is all leather (no wood), but does not have the chape that Matt disliked. Great sword for the price.
I must admit, you execute a very nice cut! I own an arming sword made for me a few decades ago (as a gift) by Jim Hruselas (probably misspelled his name - he made the swords for the movie, "Excaliber"). When I lived in Colombia I fought (and lost) two saber duels with another cadet at the Scheula De Caballeria of the Ejercito De Colombia, so Jim wanted to make a sword for me that would really work for fighting. The speed of the lighter, shorter arming sword is incredibly practical. Also works well as a machete. (sorry for all the misspellings)
I had this model of sword until recently. I really agree that it makes a great project sword, as I was able to make it really quite nice. Making a scabbard for it was also great practice. I was able to use the chape from the leather scabbard after modifying it a bit, and drilling and filing a trifoil at the top. Really good value for the money!
I picked up one of these for $100 a couple years back and love it. For cutting it's somewhat of a "cheater sword" for beginners when cutting. I did some work on the edge, but if you have smaller hand and grab the pommel it becomes a nice easy cutter for smaller people. A lot of our groups longsword cutters can be a little unwieldy for smaller members cutting for the first time. Recently I used the vinegar and salt trick to "antique" mine and I love it. Some people like a bright and shiny sword. I like the ancient look, so the mottled grey looks beautiful on it, as if it belongs in a museum.
Bang for the buck these are definitely some of the better swords our there. I picked one up the Museum Replicas Deal of the Day and got it for insanely cheap.
Great review Matt :-) I have a type XIV Windless Coustille and I had it re-hilted with Madagascar Ebony, and highly polished the guard/pommel and blued them, and it now feels like something more expensive than it originally MSRP'd. ;-)
At first when you said that you're going to "cut and chop" stuff up, I was like, why would you say "chop"? You'll be cutting, so you'll be slicing if anything. Then at 26:07 you actually DID execute a chop!😃
LOVE your sight Matt, great objective observations and ALWAYS fantastically educational! This one's quite the cutter brother, and I loved the background tuneages! QUESTION: When will you be cutting with your new one handed Chinese sword??!! Looked really fast & wicked, in the best way!
Thanks! I've got quite a pile of swords to review at the moment (not complaining!!). So I'm not sure which order the videos will come out, but I am working through them all. The white arc will be one of the next Chinese swords I cover though, as I'm doing them in historical order.
Wow Matt, idk if it's the sword or your skill (probably the latter) but seems like an excellent weapon! I especially like the shorter length, quick and more effective up close. Great video!
I have one of those swords. My only complaint is that the grip seems a bit thin.I will sometime soon give it a leather wrap. It is fast and light ,great for close quarter fighting. Great video!
I have a similar blade from Windlass but it's, I think a bit shorter. It was called an Analace. I understand that it was considered the maximum length that could be carried by someone not Noble. A very good little short sword. I am a fan of Windlass. This longer type XIV is very tempting.
I think Windlass makes the Cold Steel Arming sword. The CS sword is a later type. It also feels good in the hand. At less than $200 in the USA (shop around) it's a good value too.
One arrived today. They seem to have improved the scabbard, which now appears to be stiffened with hardboard, this grips the blade very securely. The sword can be upended and shaken vigorously and the sword does not budge in the scabbard. Mine is ferociously sharp, albeit with the secondary bevel. I intend to cover the metal throat with black leather - I may blue the hilt and chape. On second thought there is an extra layer of something inside near the throat and in the bottom quarter of the scabbard. What the material is - possibly leather - isn't obvious.
Damn it Easton, where were you years ago when i considered buying one of these! Haha excellent review, think im gonna drop the dosh on one now. Better late than never.
I've been told by a couple of people that for a "working " blade, that is one that's going to be used and handled regularly, you don't really want more than a satin finish. That's due to ease of cleaning and ability to maintain the same finish. Opinions?
I've seen quite the contrary where a satin finish end up harder to clean than a high mirror finish. A satin finish is basically a micro-corrugated steel surface, it accumulates more gunk and oxidize more rapidly because with all the microscopic ridges the surface area is much much greater than a high mirror polish.
Being an honest Euro-MA -- but never too flush, I've owned many Windlass' swords, and seem to have settled on four now: 2x Coustille Short Sword (large daggers, really), A /short/ and wide Longsword and a D-Guard Bowie Knife. I have various other sharp and training weapons. I like the fact you seemed to take time and concern with this review :)
Thank you so much for such these videos. I was looking for a first sword as an auto b-day present. I saw your review and inmediatly fell in love with this model. I looked for one of those here in spain (the official shop doesn't ship this model to my country). I FOUND one online. I bought it. Now I have to learn how to appleseed (is that even the correct way to write it?) those bevels. to get accurate, fine edges. Any help or resources to do it myself? Again. Thanks.
What size buckler would use with this sword? great video i have this sword it good one of my first sword thank for great channel learning tons so thank you
Did Lucy get a chance to look at it? I'm always curious what she thinks. Also it gives you two a chance to argue on screen and that is always fun. Thanks a lot and always great.
Interesting. I wouldn't personally want to add any mass to this. Rather I will probably take a little away with some better sharpening and edge re-profiling.
I don't like the style of pommel. I prefer an octagonal scent stopper...but usually on a longsword rather than an arming sword. A ring pommel ala Gallowglass or Kern is nice though.
@@scholagladiatoria I have the blunt version, it was a wee bit tip heavy for me. (Bought it as a wallhanger, but the balance annoyed me, nothing much, a ~30-40g weight addition fixed that.)
@@bretalvarez3097 Yeah, you don't need much for that. I cut out some lead, fixed it in place and added 2 coins. Works better for me (as said, I have the blunt version - might be a difference in blade weight there, but I'm no expert.)
(tip comment) hello, great detailed review, thinking now about purchase, easy decision by price and shop in my country doesn't have that Kingston Arms 13th century sword. I'm thinking about that long thin thing behind you that looks like Cold steel Colichemarde, too. I would like many ofc but money is the issue. So firstly thanks for your review. Secondly- I have one windlass (Sword of Homildon Hill) already and I quite love it and I found that metal entry of scabbard very useful, bcs the sword was quite lose in it and would fall off turned upside down, but this metal allowed me to simply tighten it in vice (wrapped in rag). pliers should serve too. it holds in there well now an still going out well too, just as it should be. just not overdo ;)
Matt - could you please talk about how one might actually go ahead and modify / improve the edge by blending the secondary bevel into the flat? BTW - i own a good number of Windlass swords, and this is my favorite. Thanks for the Video.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I could've sworn that I read somewhere that historical European-style swords with a hollow ground diamond cross-section almost always had a secondary bevel. I'm pretty sure I read it in an article on either the SBG forum or the MyArmoury site. I wish I could remember where. If I'm wrong, let me know.
I have this sword and love it. Windlass makes a lot of crapola, but this is one their their winners. It could be slightly lighter, but it handles well and feels lively in my hand. If someone wants an inexpensive yet more than acceptable quality arming sword, especially a beginner, they can't go wrong with this one. I have mine in front of me as a type!
Had one of these delivered to me today from Southern Swords in the UK. What a coincidence to see Matt review on the same day. Quite sure The Knight Shop have these in stock too.
How do you post swords around the world? Isn't it illegal to post any blades even within the UK? The couriers nowadays have a ridiculously long prohibited items list....
I just got the Kingston Arms ATrim Type XIV for my birthday. I've heard the Windlass Type XIV is pretty good for the cost but it's discontinued now. I really like the Type XIV sword and this Kingston Arms example had good reviews online and it seems like a good sword though I am a beginner with swords and don't know a good one from a bad one yet. Have you tried the KA? I wonder how it compares to the Windlass.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | อาจารย์โอเล่ ญาณสัมผัส ผ่าดวงคนดัง ประเทศไทยจะเป็นยังไงหลังจากนี้!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gszT2O76fL4/mqdefault.jpg)
I love when you review swords I can afford.
Try to save up though.
Its so worth it to get something high end and custom.
Dang, I counted 10 swings on that milk carton. Well done, sir!
I have this sword. I will say, that after several years of use, the grip and cross guard have developed a slight rattle, but it is a good, strong piece for the money. It's a little heavy, which is weird, because once you get this thing moving, it is wicked fast.
***EDIT***
I wanted to add that this sword is capable of taking a very sharp edge (or two!) if you're willing to put the time into it. Mine is so sharp that I kind of dread oiling/maintaining it. Two razor sharp edges can be really scary, especially given how easily they'll bite right through oil cloths.
does the crossguard and pommel ever rust? Or is it mild steel?
do you mean stainless? mild steel rusts@@Scharfster
Wife and I have one each. Really like them. They also make great "project swords" .
I'm really fond of it. It's a genuinely lovely little sword, especially for the price.
@@scholagladiatoria Very much so. Also survived being emergency weed wackers a few times to solid construction too.
Congratulations! What a review !!!
There are no reviews of swords of this quality on the Internet.
For all the clear, concise, numerous and well technical and historical information. But also for how it shows the weapon, so much and in detail and for the fantastic cuts.
Scholagladiatoria is at a much higher level compared to other historical weapons youtubers what I have been able to find, I do not understand how it does not have 200 times more views than some of very low level.
Thanks!
@@scholagladiatoria hi
When you said you feel it's a little too heavy do you mean for the xiv type or just your personal preference?
Wondering as I know you are a cutlass fan & I thought that the British types I often see in your videos that you like are heavier at a similar size.
So Matt, when are you finally going to make a video on that Polynesian club that's been hanging behind you for the all of these years?
Damn I was n't sure if it was a water bottle
Matt test cutting to a vaguely edgy hip hop-inspired selection of music in slow motion gives me distinct Office Space copier beat down vibes. I'm 100% for it.
I wonder what they think at the recycle center when your bottles come in.
If even one of them is subscribed to a sword enthusiast, they'd all know what's up. If not...
I've had this exact sword for a while now and even did a review on it! It is one of my project swords (still need to appleseed the edge) and an integral part of my early 14th C impression! DONT GET RID OF THE SCABBARD! Just take the chape off! I did and it looks fantastic once you apply some black paint to the bare leather. Cheers!
When a company sends you a product to review, I would be suspicious that they might have hand picked one of the nicest examples they could find.
There is really not a lot I can do about that, but if all companies did that, then I am comparing the best of all of them. So it cancels out.
@@scholagladiatoria Well, aside from the fact that they wouldn't be representative of the actual product for buyers. They'd be representative -compared to other best picks-, but not for what the average consumer is getting.
@@TheDickBurglar I have purchased at least 5 Windlass swords over the last 15 years and have not gotten a bad one. I have never opted for the factory sharpening, I have always heard it is not the best and if I have to touch it up might as well do the whole thing.
I actually have this sword (bought from Museum Replicas lat year) and can attest that the sword our host has is not any better than the one I have.
@@TheDickBurglar I have one and I found that everything Matt said about his applied to mine as well.
Spectacular demo, definitely looks like a pretty functional blade, nice to hear it is affordable
This is one of the best Windlass swords. Have had one in my collection for years.
It’s back!! This guy was discontinued up to a year ago on museumreplicas, but you can always contact Windlass directly and they’ll send you an item off the warehouse.
A few things from my experience with it: first of all, I got it edgeless which was a decision made at a time when I was pretty new to HEMA and didn’t want to practice form on a live blade. When I did Iai a few years ago, I was pretty keen on having a steel iaito, and this sword is basically that. It’s a sword, with no rounded tip, and a butter knife edge. It’s HEAVY, but moving becomes natural with more use and now it just feels like it’s a part of me. This review is honestly making me want to put an order on a sharp for practice cutting. The next step to this type XIV design is an Albion Yeoman, Sovereign, and Sheriff, but those are four times the price!
As far as complaints go, I will note that my particular model came with rust spots on the flat of the blade a couple of inches from the hilt. It exists on both sides, and I’m almost certain it comes from that metal collar around the scabbard that puts some kind of contact pressure on the blade when it’s stored flat for a few days. I’ve buffed the spots out a few times with relative ease, but the spots usually returned on one side after about a week. I make sure to flip the sword like a burger every day or so now to make sure the gravity of it laying flat doesn’t sandwich one side and cause rusting. Thanks to it being a double-edge, you can just remove it from the scabbard and flip it over.
Another thing that’s tough to buff is that Windlass logo on the base of the blade. Forum posts seem to suggest that it’s possible to buff out by hand with MetalGlo, but it feels straight up branded on. Maybe a belt sander can take care of it.
Without a belt sander I ordered a custom leather rain chape from Etsy under the seller GrommetsLeathercraft to cover the brand and make it more comfortable for bare hand handling. He’s very friendly and will tailor a chape for any sword shape-but he also recently started producing handmade leather scabbards. They don’t have wooden cores like the Windlass, but they’re all-leather and can be made with a historically accurate integrated sword belt for just $100! It’s a great deal and looks amazing.
Anyway, thanks for the review! The Windlass catalog has something similar to the type XIV (but looks more like a type Xa) with a brass hilt. Museumreplicas had it under the name “The Sword of Cortenuova,” after the Guelph and Ghibelline conflict of medieval Italy. The brass work looks super cool, but from the scant reviews I could find it has an even worse distal taper and is seemingly blade heavy in comparison to the type XIV.
My wife overheard the introductory music and asked "What are you watching!?"
I answered, "Sword porn."
Love seing these reviews, please keep them coming - and really nice that it also includes swords that are more affordable. Thanks!
I have to say I love the metal throat on my 2nd generation Coustille. On mine, I have blued the steel pommel, cross-guard, chape and throat and that made a huge difference in how the piece appeared.
Just my feeling about it.😉
I'd love to see you look at their "Ulfbert" Type X, and a look at how you sharpen your swords
My thoughts exactly I want to see a good review of that sword and he's the one to do it...
A few years ago my brother got me one of these for christmas as my first sword. I couldn't have been happier, and was actually happy that it came blunt so I could solo train (really screwing around with it) with a little more peace of mind that I wouldn't end up with a painful and embarrassing visit to the emergency room.
I have made two simple modifications to my example, that virtually anyone can do. I was intending on blackening the hilt with a cold blueing gel, but I tried it out on just the recessed centre of the pommel. The result looked good, so I left it at that. I added a black leather wrap to the throat of the scabbard, which is more in period. I also gave the wrap the triangular extension over the central part of the cross-guard, when the sword is scabbarded, that is seen so often on c. 1300 representations (and on the few actual examples). The leather was thicker than I think was ideal, but it has made the scabbard throat very robust.
You're "Lockdown" practice really shows in you're cutting, and its nice to hear good things about Windlass. Good video, thanks.
I heard about windlass crossbows, a windlass sword seems pretty overpowered.
xD Under-rated comment
This comment needs more likes!
It's all in the wind-up!
Lol. 😂 I see your point.
Kult of Athena worked with Windlass to re-release a few of their discontinued models. I picked up the Arbedo and the Towton, absolutely fantastic swords. Also own the Munich which is nice too.
My favorite Windlass piece.
Outstanding review…well done!
Glad to see you doing reviews of the more economy range swords! I think there's a real need for knowledgeable reviews in that price range, as it is so difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff.
Interesting point about a the finish on swords - I actually prefer a satin finish to a mirror polish, but to each their own
I’ve had this sword for a few years. Love it. It is an excellent cutter.
Trap music intensifies:
Me: O.o ?
This has always been my favorite pattern. At least, my favorite when it comes to double edged blades. I still love my messers more than anything.
That said, I love the look of a broad blade with a pronounced taper, and I like the handling of a meaty, short-ish blade.
Give me one of these with a buckler and I'm a happy, happy boy.
Hi Matt!
Just with regards to your comments about the secondary bevels, I believe this type of edge is a result of laws in India where these swords are made. Del Tin in Italy has the same issue, local laws preventing them from being built with a properly finished edge.
Windlass have a government permit to make, sell and export sharp swords. I have spoken with them specifically about that.
Thank you for this amazing, detailed review of a budget friendly medieval sword! I especially appreciated the comments with regards to historical accuracy. I'd love to see more videos like this, particularly of European swords around this price point from brands such as Windlass and the Hanwei-Tinker Pearce line.
Matt I'm a massive fan of your videos. Thank you.
I ordered one of these today because of you video. And because I've decided to extend my birthday month, and because of the beer. But mostly because of your video. I don't know how I didn't know about these before now?? They are literally my 2nd favorite type.Thank you for such an even handed review. Godspeed.
i own a few Windlass swords! also the longsword from last video....windlass can be hit or miss...they got a few really awesome ones, but there are also bad,whippy ones....in this price range you have to be very aware of what model you are getting....stay save, greets from Solingen!:)
I completely agree. I've seen quite a lot of Windlass models over the years and they are clearly capable of making a really good sword. It's just that you need to look for reviews of the specific models before you buy. This is a good one. I think with further guidance and development, Windlass could make very very good swords. They are clearly capable.
You talked me into it. Huge respect and appreciation sir. Thank you :D
Outstanding information regarding Windless Swords manufacture. Thank you, Scholagladiatoria, you did very well.
Hey Matt why don't you hook up with Todd and work up a line of affordable "near historically accurate" swords? For us Plebeians.
Hey Matt! I hope you won't mind if I throw in some quick physics terminology here. When you say the weight is concentrated 'around the direction you are turning it,' this is called the 'axis of rotation.' Think of this as the line that 'stays still' as you rotate the object. And the thing which is consequently small is the 'moment of inertia.'
I have this sword. And i have unfortunately destruction tested it against some green bamboo. I know it was pretty silly, but i want to share what i have learned pulling it apart. The tang was where it joins the pommel being about 5mmx6mm going into a 8mm round hole. The tang is quite apparently hardened as well(as it cleanly and clearly snapped(even showing some hardening colours on the clean breakage).
So I'd say, yeah it looks beautiful, cuts really nice and feels really nice(especially for its price) but do not be putting it against something resistant, not even a mild swing at reasonably soft bamboo. That big heavy pommel sitting on a narrow brittle tang is going to be a killer. Saying that it did cut into the bamboo very well (minus the pommel which thankfully did not land on my foot, its really quite heavy), and the handle assembly was glued together REALLY well.
Fortunately i have a functioning and well equipted workshop. If it can't be fixed in the current pattern to satisfaction it will have to be reborn from the ashes as a kick arse sword staff.
Wow. Forget the sword, Mat's multi cuts are damned impressive.
That is a very good sword, I have one. I got mine on sale for something just over $100; perhaps $105? As far as Windlass putting a cutting edge on their sword is somewhat out of the question. It has nothing to do with the factory’s manufacturing abilities or the lack thereof. No sword made in India, and Italy, will come sharp from the factory as it’s the law of the land. They are prohibited from doing so. Some vendors offer a sharpening service and in that case you will receive what you have, a $20-$25 edge with a secondary bevel. A professional blade smith will do better but it’s going to cost more, much more when you figure his price plus shipping both ways. In the beginning I used two different vendor’s services and was less than satisfied and now put a convex edge on my swords myself. That steel throat on the sheath maybe necessary in this case as there is no core or other support for the leather in that area and with the grade of leather they use may not hold up alone. I wrapped my grip with cord and that improved the feel. I’ve had mine for several years now and it’s still going strong. It maybe still available over where you are but in the west it has been deleted for several years now and no longer available, a shame.
Windlass have a government permit to make, sell and export sharp swords. I discussed this matter with them directly :-)
@@scholagladiatoria I was aware that applied to their Battlecry line, but unaware of it applying to their main line swords.
Watching Matt cutting a bottle to EPM music was something i wasn't ready for.
Amazing performance. Both in reviewing and test cutting. Thank you very much for making this video. Cheers.
Just got mine, I am delighted with it! Thanks for this excellent review.
I need to be in a room with many different swords to handle before I ultimately find the one for me. Watching videos, purchasing random swords without handling them first can only take you so far. As the owner of a Chinese made Japanese crowbar, it became clear to me pretty quickly that not all swords are created equal and that I could spend a fortune before finding one I actually like in my hand.
I have a custom assembled Windlass with the same grip/guard/pommel combo, but with an 83cm (33 inch) blade. I absolutely love it. Handles well and cuts like a beast. The scabbard is all leather (no wood), but does not have the chape that Matt disliked. Great sword for the price.
From windlass themselves?
I didn't know they offered that
I must admit, you execute a very nice cut! I own an arming sword made for me a few decades ago (as a gift) by Jim Hruselas (probably misspelled his name - he made the swords for the movie, "Excaliber"). When I lived in Colombia I fought (and lost) two saber duels with another cadet at the Scheula De Caballeria of the Ejercito De Colombia, so Jim wanted to make a sword for me that would really work for fighting. The speed of the lighter, shorter arming sword is incredibly practical. Also works well as a machete. (sorry for all the misspellings)
I had this model of sword until recently. I really agree that it makes a great project sword, as I was able to make it really quite nice.
Making a scabbard for it was also great practice. I was able to use the chape from the leather scabbard after modifying it a bit, and drilling and filing a trifoil at the top.
Really good value for the money!
I really like that sword...I almost bought one. I have several Windlass swords, they are quite nice.
I picked up one of these for $100 a couple years back and love it. For cutting it's somewhat of a "cheater sword" for beginners when cutting. I did some work on the edge, but if you have smaller hand and grab the pommel it becomes a nice easy cutter for smaller people. A lot of our groups longsword cutters can be a little unwieldy for smaller members cutting for the first time.
Recently I used the vinegar and salt trick to "antique" mine and I love it. Some people like a bright and shiny sword. I like the ancient look, so the mottled grey looks beautiful on it, as if it belongs in a museum.
Bang for the buck these are definitely some of the better swords our there. I picked one up the Museum Replicas Deal of the Day and got it for insanely cheap.
I dig the cutting soundtrack.
Skallagrim watching Matt Cut with a dull sword: I GIVE UP!
Sorry Skall. ;)
Great review Matt :-)
I have a type XIV Windless Coustille and I had it re-hilted with Madagascar Ebony, and highly polished the guard/pommel and blued them, and it now feels like something more expensive than it originally MSRP'd. ;-)
Hello Matt, HOUSE LANNISTER from Casterly-Rock likes your videos, keep them coming 👏👏👏👏👏
Loving the new beats man, suits you
At first when you said that you're going to "cut and chop" stuff up, I was like, why would you say "chop"? You'll be cutting, so you'll be slicing if anything. Then at 26:07 you actually DID execute a chop!😃
LOVE your sight Matt, great objective observations and ALWAYS fantastically educational! This one's quite the cutter brother, and I loved the background tuneages! QUESTION: When will you be cutting with your new one handed Chinese sword??!! Looked really fast & wicked, in the best way!
Thanks! I've got quite a pile of swords to review at the moment (not complaining!!). So I'm not sure which order the videos will come out, but I am working through them all. The white arc will be one of the next Chinese swords I cover though, as I'm doing them in historical order.
Wow Matt, idk if it's the sword or your skill (probably the latter) but seems like an excellent weapon! I especially like the shorter length, quick and more effective up close. Great video!
I have one of those swords. My only complaint is that the grip seems a bit thin.I will sometime soon give it a leather wrap. It is fast and light ,great for close quarter fighting. Great video!
I have a similar blade from Windlass but it's, I think a bit shorter. It was called an Analace. I understand that it was considered the maximum length that could be carried by someone not Noble.
A very good little short sword. I am a fan of Windlass.
This longer type XIV is very tempting.
I think Windlass makes the Cold Steel Arming sword. The CS sword is a later type. It also feels good in the hand. At less than $200 in the USA (shop around) it's a good value too.
One arrived today. They seem to have improved the scabbard, which now appears to be stiffened with hardboard, this grips the blade very securely. The sword can be upended and shaken vigorously and the sword does not budge in the scabbard. Mine is ferociously sharp, albeit with the secondary bevel. I intend to cover the metal throat with black leather - I may blue the hilt and chape. On second thought there is an extra layer of something inside near the throat and in the bottom quarter of the scabbard. What the material is - possibly leather - isn't obvious.
Damn it Easton, where were you years ago when i considered buying one of these! Haha excellent review, think im gonna drop the dosh on one now. Better late than never.
I've been kinda interested in type 17 swords and they dont get a lot of love . So maybe you could do a video on those types
Miss the old garden fence. Chopping video needs more Cat Easton in the background judging you.
great cuts Matt
Magnificent expertise.
I've been told by a couple of people that for a "working " blade, that is one that's going to be used and handled regularly, you don't really want more than a satin finish. That's due to ease of cleaning and ability to maintain the same finish.
Opinions?
I've seen quite the contrary where a satin finish end up harder to clean than a high mirror finish. A satin finish is basically a micro-corrugated steel surface, it accumulates more gunk and oxidize more rapidly because with all the microscopic ridges the surface area is much much greater than a high mirror polish.
Being an honest Euro-MA -- but never too flush, I've owned many Windlass' swords, and seem to have settled on four now: 2x Coustille Short Sword (large daggers, really), A /short/ and wide Longsword and a D-Guard Bowie Knife. I have various other sharp and training weapons. I like the fact you seemed to take time and concern with this review :)
Great review, I live in the States and got all kinds of guns but I'd like to collect some swords, just not sure where to start.
i have a previous version of this sword from the early 2000's and have cut with it regularly for 15 years or so.
Thank you so much for such these videos. I was looking for a first sword as an auto b-day present. I saw your review and inmediatly fell in love with this model. I looked for one of those here in spain (the official shop doesn't ship this model to my country). I FOUND one online. I bought it. Now I have to learn how to appleseed (is that even the correct way to write it?) those bevels. to get accurate, fine edges. Any help or resources to do it myself?
Again. Thanks.
What size buckler would use with this sword? great video i have this sword it good one of my first sword thank for great channel learning tons so thank you
I have two windless swords a Towton and a falchion which is my favorite i like this Oakeshott Type XIV. : )
That's all fine and good, but where's the cat?
Did Lucy get a chance to look at it? I'm always curious what she thinks. Also it gives you two a chance to argue on screen and that is always fun. Thanks a lot and always great.
Funny. I've got that sword, I've put some lead into the pommel (covered by two 1€-coins) to make balance better. :)
Was there an actual noticeable difference in balance?
Interesting. I wouldn't personally want to add any mass to this. Rather I will probably take a little away with some better sharpening and edge re-profiling.
I don't like the style of pommel. I prefer an octagonal scent stopper...but usually on a longsword rather than an arming sword. A ring pommel ala Gallowglass or Kern is nice though.
@@scholagladiatoria I have the blunt version, it was a wee bit tip heavy for me. (Bought it as a wallhanger, but the balance annoyed me, nothing much, a ~30-40g weight addition fixed that.)
@@bretalvarez3097 Yeah, you don't need much for that. I cut out some lead, fixed it in place and added 2 coins. Works better for me (as said, I have the blunt version - might be a difference in blade weight there, but I'm no expert.)
Granted I dont get this on my B-day, I'll buy it. I'm way to much into type 14 swords, hehe. :D Thx, for a great rev. 100%
they also make the smatchet and the riflemans knife and the 1917 frontier bowie for Cold Steel
(tip comment) hello, great detailed review, thinking now about purchase, easy decision by price and shop in my country doesn't have that Kingston Arms 13th century sword. I'm thinking about that long thin thing behind you that looks like Cold steel Colichemarde, too. I would like many ofc but money is the issue. So firstly thanks for your review. Secondly- I have one windlass (Sword of Homildon Hill) already and I quite love it and I found that metal entry of scabbard very useful, bcs the sword was quite lose in it and would fall off turned upside down, but this metal allowed me to simply tighten it in vice (wrapped in rag). pliers should serve too. it holds in there well now an still going out well too, just as it should be. just not overdo ;)
Matt - could you please talk about how one might actually go ahead and modify / improve the edge by blending the secondary bevel into the flat?
BTW - i own a good number of Windlass swords, and this is my favorite. Thanks for the Video.
ok, the important question: Do I or do I not save up for the Yeoman.... or just get one of these as a project....damn
Took mine apart about a year or so ago and it had a welded tang.
this is my favorite sword from windlass
Great video.
Have wanted a type xiv for ages, may have to take the plunge
Matt, I have just bought an example of this sword. Could you do a tutorial video when you Appleseed the blade?
Could you show explicitly some draw and push cuts (maybe even in an exaggerated way) when test cutting with a suitable sword?
I was thinking about getting this for a while, ending up having one custom made but now i think i should have gone for this haha
Pretty sword: We know the Wilkinsons used by troops would hold up under actual sword requirements, how would Windlass compare?
They're hit or miss but ive put my windlass swords through log splitting and the peened swords holds up well
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I could've sworn that I read somewhere that historical European-style swords with a hollow ground diamond cross-section almost always had a secondary bevel. I'm pretty sure I read it in an article on either the SBG forum or the MyArmoury site. I wish I could remember where. If I'm wrong, let me know.
I have this sword and love it. Windlass makes a lot of crapola, but this is one their their winners. It could be slightly lighter, but it handles well and feels lively in my hand. If someone wants an inexpensive yet more than acceptable quality arming sword, especially a beginner, they can't go wrong with this one. I have mine in front of me as a type!
Just wish this sword was in stock somewhere! I'd buy it today!
I believe that if you order it through the link in the description then it will be put together in a few weeks.
@@scholagladiatoria thank you! I'll get it in the mail!
Had one of these delivered to me today from Southern Swords in the UK. What a coincidence to see Matt review on the same day. Quite sure The Knight Shop have these in stock too.
@@jefffoster8673 I have never been so happy to be proven wrong.. lol!
I have the Windlass Arbedo hand and a half sword and I really like it. Needs a little brother though.. lol
At the end, Matt decides to go into Topiary work.
That was a really dangerous stick, you almost didn't get away.
How do you post swords around the world? Isn't it illegal to post any blades even within the UK? The couriers nowadays have a ridiculously long prohibited items list....
this sword looks very nice
I just got the Kingston Arms ATrim Type XIV for my birthday. I've heard the Windlass Type XIV is pretty good for the cost but it's discontinued now. I really like the Type XIV sword and this Kingston Arms example had good reviews online and it seems like a good sword though I am a beginner with swords and don't know a good one from a bad one yet. Have you tried the KA? I wonder how it compares to the Windlass.
The Windlass is not discontinued, it is sold in several places, including from the link under my video :-)
Matt, is that a Windlass Munich Town Guard sword in the background?
8 cuts on one bottle, nice work