You are seriously the most skilled and generous diy presenter I've seen on TH-cam! I just subscribed. I love that you keep your mis-speaks in the video. That is fun. Also I appreciate you describing what didn't and doesn't work. I look forward to watching more of your videos. Also, nice guitar playing!
Awesome project! I love that xlr connector, and i saw this video at the right time because i was about to buy a much less pretty xlr connector for a mic project
Yeah it's pretty unique. I can't figure out what type/dimensions of pins XLRs use, tried reading some XLR connector standard specs, to further decrease the costs of such project, but didn't pursue the research further.
lol that's a great idea! I've been only one time to what I consider a "professional recording studio", filming a few live music videos. Next time I should really steal a few minutes to make a reaction video with the staff :D
I figured out how to get the proper thread size for the XLR jack in Fusion 360. Use the threading tool with these parameters. Thread - ISO Metric Profile Size - 20.0mm Designation - M20X1 Class - 6H Direction - Right Hand Make sure you have MODELED box checked. Then use your Press/Pull tool. Highlight all the walls of the thread, and enter -0.21.
I have to say you really made something great here, But the toroid transformer was the dealmaker as it saves big money and really makes it your own. Thanks.
Yeah, I didn't plan going that far, but as I was exploring how premade transformers are commonly wired I came across the Messanovic videos. It looked plausible, added few months to the project but decided to try it for the sake of the video. Turned out to be the most significant part of it :D One could make such DIY mics even as awesome gifts to friends or giveaways for subscibers. Though would require adding some preamp with it for completeness.
The most informative video that I've found. Thanks for share your skills with us. I'd like to follow your steps and make one for me. Greetings from chile
Soldering is actually not that hard when you use the flat, wide tip and turn the heat on maximum. You just have to heat the surface of whatever you want the solder to stick on up to the point of heat at which solder melts. Else you will just mush hot, liquid solder on a surface that is so cold that it hardens the solder before it can stick to it.
FYI, re: Phantom Power, it shouldn't be a problem if the mic is already plugged in, as 48V is positive on both pins. Something only happens if there's unequal voltage between the pins. If the mic is plugged into active 48V, then this can happen, as there can be a timing difference between when the pins connect, moreso if using e.g. a TRS patch bay. Of course, if one has the option to just not run the 48V, that's even safer, but some devices only allow the option of choosing 48V per bank of 4 or 8 inputs.
I recall right after I made the video, I found a guy (probably) debunking this myth indeed: th-cam.com/video/cJiiO6OKkkk/w-d-xo.html but I won't take the responsibility to tell people it's ok to try, just in case :D Thank you for bringing it up and the insights!
So nice! I like the design! Nice work! Is it possible to buy one of you, or a matched pair? I record vocals, drums and sometimes orchestra. Best Regards.
Thank you Magnus! Although I'd be happy for it to become a real product, It was mostly a proof of concept project. Since I have a simple FDM printer - the grills are not as sturdy as I'd like them to be, so I'm not comfortable with selling it as a good quality and reliable product. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't survive the shipping. Hopefully I'll come back to it one day and figure out how to mass produce such ventures, I believe there should be a way and I hope someone will figure it out before me :)
16:57 don't blow on it once proper tension is set, don't scream at it, and most important don't drop it. The ribbon needs to be nice and tight so it oscillate. Make sure the ribbon is not touching the magnet and that they are evenly spaced, the closer you get that ribbon to the magnet the better (ideally about the thickness of a piece of printing paper.) The 3d printed lines will transfer to the aluminum making it rigid and in turn it will move less smooth.
Turning on phantom won't burn the ribbon, DC doesn't go through the transformer, and as the both signal pins are at same potential +48v the voltage across the pins is 0v. However it's still good idea to avoid phantom.
Hello, as most of the DIY ribbon mics, the magnets are here also in an "open circuit". You can improve the magnetic field "closing" the magnetic circuit between the 2 magnets. In order to prevent any short-circuit the magnets can be recovered by some transparent epoxy.
Thank you for the insight! If you can, please elaborate on how exactly to "close" the magnetic circuit. Do you mean the magnets should touch the motor chassis? The Royer R121, from the factory reference videos I watched, just stick the magnets on epoxy, does this mean they use "open circuit" as well? They machine their motors out of a solid block of aluminum, so I doubt it "closes" the circuit, since aluminum is barely magnetic. If you know any "closed magnet circuit" ribbon mics, please give examples.
@@DimaPavlenko Well, in fact a circuit is at least always "closed", but most often it's closed by "air"... For a ribbon mike this air closing is obviously an obligation since the ribbon is in between the two opposites poles N and S. But if nothing "unifies" the other poles you have again an "air closing" on this other side. Then, if you "connect" through a ferromagnetic material these two opposites poles you now have a "really closed" circuit on this side. Try to measure the magnetic field with only the facing magnets and make the same measurement in the gap again after connecting the other poles ! You'll notice a big improvement in the magnetic field...
Hi, thanks for all the information you provide in your very instructive video, I think it's the best video on the net. Could you explain a little more how you calculate the number of turns of the primary and secondary? Best regards. 👍🙌
Thank you! Sure ^-^ The base parameters of the calculation, which you need to decide on, are the number of the secondary wraps and the desired ratio ("the voltage increas ratio"). The typical ratio that most popular premade transformers seem to have is around 1 to 36. Following the Messanovic factory video, I decided on 6 secondary wraps (not too much, as each secondary wrap will require corresponding 36 primary wraps). So the primary (thin wire) should have around 6x36=216 wraps. Roughly measuring a single wrap length (depends on your transformer dimensions) - you multiply that value by 236 and get the length of the primary wire to cut. That's it, the whole purpose was essentially to eliminate the need to count the wraps manually, by cutting just enough wire to keep the end ratio of primary:secondary wraps.
Great video! The plastic 3d printed structure is more prone to interference in comparison to a metal structure grounded, Right? Have you tried to ground the structure of the mic someway? Edit: I've commented before the end of the video where you talk a little more about faraday cage..
Thank you:) I mention the shielding/grounding aspect here and there in the video and have a dedicated section link in the video description to 26:27 "Bacis shielding an grounding concepts". From my tests, when ai used the Lundahl premade transformer - it seemed I didn't need get any noticable interference. But the DIY did need at least transformer wrapped in aluminum foil and the foil grounded to XLR ground pin. It is enough for my needs, but a commercial product would need something more robust and effective. Works as a proof of concepts and home use. The mid ground would be to use a single tube as the mic body and a simple 3d printed motor to "shove" inside. I think the DIY transformer tutorial is the most interesting part of the video, as it turned out to be simple enough and saves the most money. If you don't put your time into the equation ^-^
@@DimaPavlenko thanks for taking time to answer! About the transformers I've done some tests using repurposed transformers from ATX fonts and ac/DC adapters... It's the easiest solution, but it cuts a lot of the lower frequencies... I've done a video about that, and creating direct boxes using that kind of transformers but it's in Portuguese language... anyway, I'll be trying something like your project anytime soon! Thanks!
Great job! I have purchased the wire and amorphous core from your project. Am I to understand that you used 540 cm plus a little extra wire on both sides for the primary coil? How long was the secondary before it was bent in half? Any help would be great - thank you in advance!
Thank you :} Yes, so the primary was around 560-570 cm and you start wrapping with one end already sticking out. For the secondary do exactly the same calculation, but AFTER you wrapped the primary wire, so that a single wrap length corresponds the "fatter" core, and multiply the result by 2. Write down the numbers, adjust if needed, so for next one you'll just follow your own notes.
I see at 26:42 I've used 60 cm wire, then folded it. But in the video I've made the ends very small, since I wanted to test the transformers with quick connections. So it's a redundant step and ideally I would leave the other end much longer, to be able to solder it directly to the ribbon plate at the top of the motor. That's another positive of the DIY I guess, usually you get premade transformers with very short wires, requiring more and more soldering.
Thank you! :) Not officially. I was subscribed to his school for 1 year only, it gave my plenty of things to fix and work on. The last months I was experimenting with some new concepts, to see what I (or Anton) was missing during the lessons, because I felt something was still of in my pick grip and speed. The 1:39 snippet, I learned a while ago from here: th-cam.com/video/GdNI5hOP5CM/w-d-xo.html was one of the songs I use to check my progress and whether the new concepts work in the long term. I feel I've figured some important concepts, which I assume complement Antons lessons, but currently I'm too busy to make a proper dedicated video of my findings. Hopefully I'll do it during summer.
I could be wrong, but it seems like a bad idea to have a plastic body because you lose the EMF shielding properties, which is significant especially because of the high step-up ratio of the transformer. 1:35 is a lot of voltage gain for noise. It might not matter at home, but it is a limiting factor.
Yeah, I discuss how I solved it at 19:29 and some additional ideas. For daily "use and abuse" - indeed just get a real Royer R121, or some commercial one. For home use and getting used to tinker with ribbon mics (like replace the ribbon yourself) - it's a fun project that works. Especially if used as baseline for further development. Like the TH-camr "Frank Olson Twins" makes gorgeous wooden mics. I think these are great for eye catching/unique esthetics in videos. I'd use his ones for a "one-shot" budget videos in a studio or at home, if you have some intimate vibe going on, like one guitar, or violin, or a guitar with a small vintage drum kit.
hello man!! thanks for the info about ribbonmic... Could you tell me what is the thickness of the double wire used in the primary and the wire used in the secondary? and how many laps did you use? i got weird results when i tried to build a ribbonmic... using much thinner wires... aluminum foil... from a cigarette box....i would like to get a good sound quality like yours...haha
Hey Luis! Sounds like you're having a lot of fun :D Of course it's hard to tell for sure what exactly lead to your results, without seeing and hearing what you got. I suggest you upload a test video to TH-cam, so we can all learn from it. But also maybe getting some device like the "Cloud Lifter" first, to amplify the input properly. It made testing and using the mic eventually much easier. Most budget audio interfaces (like my Focusrite ones) struggle to amplify such low output microphone, like ribbons. From my failed attempt at using the ferrite core transformer, I think the most important component is the the transformer core material. The amorphous toroid (or Lundahl's classical design) seems to be most common and good sounding one. Anyway, on the page I made for this project: dimapavlenko.com/3d-printed-diy-ribbon-microphone/ there's a section listing the parts I used and their dimensions (in case anyone plans to get them from other sources). I'm not proficient in engineering, but from the info on the parts, I used the following wires: - primary winding: 28AWG / 0.33mm - secondary winding: 26AWG / 0.4mm I don't think thinner wires are the cause. Most likely it's the transformer material. As mentioned at 24:54 "How to make DIY amorphous core toroidal transformer " video section, the key parameter, from which I deduced the number of laps (which eventually used simply to calculate the length of the primary wire) is the number of secondary windings (6), which I took from the Mesanovic transformer video. So the primary (thinner) wire, was around 6*36*[single lap length] long. The "36" comes from the voltage increase ratio, which seems to be around 36 in both Lundahl and Mesanovic transformer designs.
I bought your files and I'm making the version with the 1-1/2" x 1/4" x 1/4" magnets (magnets haven't arrived yet sadly, but I'm getting there). I tried using some metal screws and nuts but they stuck out too far, and i accidentally broke my first microphone body (which printed perfectly thanks to your printing tips, btw, thanks!). Moving on though I found a great solution. M2.5 heat set inserts fit perfectly in the existing holes, and I had some short m2.5 screws which just barely grip the heat set inserts without pulling through, so everything is perfectly flush! :) I actually tried my hand at winding a transformer last night after watching your video and the mesanovic video, and had better success in my first trial than I anticipated. I just have a few questions, and I wondered if I could get in contact with you to discuss a little? Either way, Cheers! and thanks for the fun project.
Thanks Chris! I assume the base of the grill snaped, that's the most volnurable part, hence I advise people to try SLS printing if possible. I need to find local SLS printing service myself and try as well. You can contact me either via the site form (in the footer of every page) or Facebook Messenger, the link to my profile is on the channel page header. Easier to exchange images there if needed:) The DIY transformer and currugator will probably become the most valuable parts of the video :D
@@DimaPavlenko I think you could do another video entirely on the DIY transformers because this kind of information is not easy to find, especially on youtube! I have sent you a message and friend request on Facebook. Thanks again! :)
Hey my man super great job!!! Thank you for your patiences and for sharing 🙏 I'm in PHX AZ, record heat studios no time and no 3D printer....so how much your royer in green if u can.?.?
I do have a 3d printer and love to use it, however. I was at a hardware store a few days ago and I was looking at a length of copper pipe. You could use that for the body by just taking a hacksaw to it to make vents. If you solder the copper pipe to the XLR ground lead that would give you a pretty good EMF shield. What do you think?
hello! first of all congratulations! transformer cores have any name or code? Primero que nada, felicitaciones! Los núcleos de los transformadores tienen algún código para identificarlos? Excelente video y proyecto! Espero tu respuesta! Saludos!
Thank you! Nope, in the description there is a link to my web page about the mic and the link to the exact transformers I bought. The only description there is: Product Name: Amorphous Nanocrystalline Magnetic Ring (10*14*4.5) 1405 Outer diameter (OD): 16mm inner diameter (ID): 8mm high (HT): 7mm I think there are several types of "amorphous" alloys. I don't have the knowledge whether it has any impact on its properties as a transformer or how much. I know it worked great with these specific cores. To be honest, as someone mentioned in some other comment, I also preferred the DIY transformer sound:)
Thank you! Since it was mostly a research project, the STL files (3D models) does sell occasionally. I think people may be buying it for the corrugation device, not necessarily the whole mic.
Great question, I don't know but worth trying. There's some thread on this topic here: groupdiy.com/threads/ribbon-mic-element.47896/ Some suggest also copper and there some "Roswellite" article on Shure mics website (www.shure.com/en-US/performance-production/louder/what-is-this-stuff). I guess aluminum was just cheaper. Figured we can try ChatGPT take on this topic, when asked "Can ribbon microphone use a ribbon foil other than aluminum?": [you can ask for resources] Yes, ribbon microphones can use ribbon foils made of materials other than aluminum, but it's not very common. Traditionally, ribbon microphones have used aluminum ribbon foils because they are relatively light, durable, and have good conductivity. However, other materials have been experimented with over the years, including gold, silver, and even graphene. Gold ribbon foils, for example, have been used in some high-end ribbon microphones because they have a higher tensile strength and conductivity than aluminum, which can lead to a smoother and more detailed sound. However, gold is much more expensive than aluminum, which makes it impractical for most applications. Silver ribbon foils have also been used in some ribbon microphones because they have similar properties to gold but are somewhat less expensive. Graphene is another material that has been experimented with in ribbon microphones because of its extremely high conductivity and strength, but it is still relatively new and expensive. Overall, while ribbon microphones can use ribbon foils made of materials other than aluminum, aluminum remains the most common and practical material for most applications due to its combination of properties and cost-effectiveness.
For the primary coil I used a roll of magnet wire I found in local electronics shop (gauge mentioned on my website: dimapavlenko.com/3d-printed-diy-ribbon-microphone/ ) For the secondary coil I bought "magnet wire kit" from my country popular DIY electronics website: www.4project.co.il/product/magnet-wire-kit The kit had an assortment of 3 gauges, so I think one such kit from your local store should be enough for first time project. Translation of the page: 22AWG - around 12 meters 26AWG - around 22 meters 30AWG - around 61 meters Not sure if the gauge even matters that much, it would most likely work the same if I used the roll wire I already had, just liked the color differences/esthetics of the Mesanovic transformer. Even though no one can see it lol.
I can understand the high cost of shipping but we have a greedy government in Greece where they want to charge you tax on shipping as well as tax and customs on the product you purchased. Not only that try tracking an order coming from outside world. Original shipper give you a tracking number but if they do not have local delivery they pass it off to "local" companies but they fail to provide the original shipper their own shipping number. Net result you don’t know who has received your package out of ten different companies. You could call them all but since the shipping companies don’t interchange data with the original shipper, one is out of luck finding their package. Even providing a phone number does not help, most often they fail to print it on the shipping label. As for shielding, try to find someone who can print metal. I heard if you supply your print file to JLC PCB they can print metal but at what cost? I managed to get hold of some nylon gears and was able to "fold" ordinary kitchen foil successfully between the gears. Where did you source your foil from? Too bad one cannot use very thin stainless steel for the ribbon, it might be more durable than aluminum but I suspect that the frequency range of the element would change making it necessary to go with even a thinner stainless foil.
Hi! Your project is awesome! Can you try make aluminium band corrugated with not straight gear but with herringbone gear? One of manufacturer said that it's make alu band more robust. I wish a little later I'll have possibility try reproduce your project!
Thank you! I don't have much time lately, so most projects including TH-cam are on hold for now. Yeah, I came across some alternative corrugation patterns, but to properly test it you'd most likely need a bit more precise measuring devices and approach - having few control ribbons and somehow measure their elasticity robustness. Because in practice I couldn't even feel I'm holding a ribbon, so no way I could control and conclude anything doing it by hand :) Maybe someone will suggest some DIY approach though in comments.
Ahhh Buzz!?!? I watched the vid at least three times and the fourth time I just noticed u said that you are in Israel!?!?😳 You are even more my hero!!! Make lots of vids,. Or mics,. Or music!?!!😁👍
Если интересует техника Гилберта - то думаю стоит, но в этой темме очень много ньюансов. Прогресс появился относительно недавно, около года назад случайно обнаружил на чем основан хват Антона и Гилберта, он оказался ключем к их ПШ. Пытаюсь видео сформулировать с выводами, в помощь тем кто у него занимался. Несколько ньюансов на пример (плюсы и минусы): + Правая рука - ради этого стоит, Антон ближе всех подобрался к истине (хвата, опоры и движения). - Правая рука - судя по себе, всё равно пришлось докапываться до еще более простых основ. Я и большенство естественно ожидали/ожидают что он решит все их проблемы, а это пока не так. Думаю видео поможет в этом плане как вспомогательное пособие. Когда выйдет еще не знаю, сложное. + Много хорошего материалы - есть нарезки ответов по темам, удобно услышать ответы другим, очень часто находились варианты объяснений которые помогали понять суть. - Левая рука - предпачитаю школу Гилберта (глушевка, вибрато, бенды). В плане синхронизации Фреда. На самом деле особо левой рукой не загружался, не чувствовал нужды лично. После классической гитары мне школа Гилберта помогла перестроится на (блюзовый) хват электро. - С связью и ответами там постоянно какие-то истории - достаточно посмотреть на коменты под моими видео от англо-язычных ребят. Почему так? Не знаю. Нужно иметь в виду что возможно придется стучаться тупо во все места - телеграм, сайт, фейсбук. Странно но как-то так. Когда я там был вроде было почти нормально (один раз он в больнице лежал). Дальше не понятно что было, как там сейчас и что будет. * На днях кто-то кто долго собирался к нему записаться решил в конце концов не идти, после того как ознакомился с условиями на его сайте. На мой взгляд там стандартные требования онлайн курсов (не распростронять материал школы и т.д и т.п), но лучше почитать. В принципе советую попробывать всех кого можете. Все очень сильно отличаются, методологии, преподнос материала, структура школы (платформа). У всех найдутся толковые детали. Есть вроде Олейник, Забуруев, Головин, и наверное много других техничных дают уроки. На данный момент не один не научит всему скорей всего. Поэтому надо пробывать, эксперементировать.
@@DimaPavlenko спасибо за подробный ответ . Просто интересует в целом развитие . Считаю что мне бы в целом нужно все про качать . То есть и штрих и бэнды и вибрато и синхронизацию . И цена вроде адекватная плюс год абонемент. Хз единственное что не могу понять как происходит контроль прогресса со стороны Антона ? И как выдаются здания упражнения? Как в целом идёт рекрут студента ? Нужно снимать видео о пределенной работе или что ?
@@MalyshevAlexsandr Когда я там был, после оплаты (причем пару дней а не сразу) меня добавляли в 2 группы в Телеграме (одна с Антоном для отсылки видео или вопросов, по вашему желанию и настроению) и как то в Фейсбук. То есть при записи заполнял там свой Телеграм и Фейсбук. Материал в основном был в Фейсбуке (в странных закладках, пришлось там потоптаться, и это при том что я Фейсбком и пользуюсь). При записи вроде приходил список ресурсов и рекомендаций с чего начать. Вроде и в Google Drive что-то было. То есть единственный контроль со стороны Антона происходит если вы отсылаете видео на обзор. Некоторые посылали задания, кто-то просто вопросы, кто-то соло просил оценить. Естественно всё в рамках техники и теории. Надеюсь когда-нибудь вложит усилий, хотя бы создаст полноценный сайт/архив и автоматизирует запись. Как у Гилберта, хотя и там было не гладко, был интересный форум, отвечал людим про примочки, песни, туры но поиск был ужасный. Судя по вашему каналу у вас большое преймущество благодаря металу (об этом собираюсь и в видео поговорить, почему металисты всегда техничней остальных), так как металисты привыкли играть агрессивно, пробивая струну, соответственно не приходится отвыкать от игры прыжками (а это несколько месяцев для всех остальных). Также запястье и предплечье обычно повернуты "в гитару", мне пришлось это отрабатывать, иначе переходы контролировать не возможно, да и вообще стабилизировать штрих, не умея применять опору при разных углах предплечья.
@@DimaPavlenko Я понял спасибо за ответ . Буду думать. Выбираю между Скайп уроками и Системой Опарина . Есть просто ещё один талантливый гитарист и он обучает онлайн . Наверное стоит для начала позаниматься с ним и потом уже идти к системе Опарина ? Хотелось бы просто по больше контроля со стороны преподавателя.
@@MalyshevAlexsandr Считаю что стоит, я к Антону тоже пришел в последнюю очередь, полезно побывать у разных, тогда проще понять кто что умеет объяснять, как методы и логистика влияет на обучение/обучаемость и что у кого лучше брать.
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You are seriously the most skilled and generous diy presenter I've seen on TH-cam! I just subscribed. I love that you keep your mis-speaks in the video. That is fun. Also I appreciate you describing what didn't and doesn't work. I look forward to watching more of your videos. Also, nice guitar playing!
Thank you very much for the kind words! I really appreciate it ^-^
The most informative video of all. I like how you based the design off the How It's Made/How Stuff's Made video, I watched the same videos lol.
Great Video Dima ~ much useful information packed in. Touching lightly on many key points of DIY ribbon microphone making... ❤
It is obvious you have done significant Research and Development on this project. Nice work!
BRILLIANT
was trying to think of what 31:39 reminded me of and it's my mom's hair curlers right down to the colors... they have a similar geometrical pattern.
I rarely click like on the videos i watch. This video is my first like in like 3 years. also subbed.
you have done very well in your studies and knowledge, thank you for sharing !
Awesome project! I love that xlr connector, and i saw this video at the right time because i was about to buy a much less pretty xlr connector for a mic project
Yeah it's pretty unique. I can't figure out what type/dimensions of pins XLRs use, tried reading some XLR connector standard specs, to further decrease the costs of such project, but didn't pursue the research further.
You are freaking awesome!! Id love to see you bring that to a professional studio and see how they react!
lol that's a great idea! I've been only one time to what I consider a "professional recording studio", filming a few live music videos. Next time I should really steal a few minutes to make a reaction video with the staff :D
I figured out how to get the proper thread size for the XLR jack in Fusion 360.
Use the threading tool with these parameters.
Thread - ISO Metric Profile
Size - 20.0mm
Designation - M20X1
Class - 6H
Direction - Right Hand
Make sure you have MODELED box checked.
Then use your Press/Pull tool. Highlight all the walls of the thread, and enter -0.21.
Awesome!!! Thank you for a great suggestion and especially the instructions! ^-^
Thanks a bunch for making this video! Lots of really helpful information in here.
Very comprehensive and informative video. Many thanks.
I have to say you really made something great here, But the toroid transformer was the dealmaker as it saves big money and really makes it your own. Thanks.
Yeah, I didn't plan going that far, but as I was exploring how premade transformers are commonly wired I came across the Messanovic videos. It looked plausible, added few months to the project but decided to try it for the sake of the video. Turned out to be the most significant part of it :D
One could make such DIY mics even as awesome gifts to friends or giveaways for subscibers. Though would require adding some preamp with it for completeness.
Thank you very much, great work!!
Дмитрий, спасибо! Очень позновательно.
Just finished my latest ribbon mic never thought of making my own Xformer. The foil for the ribbon came from a capacitor.
Nice to find your video, just as I'm about to build my first ribbon mic (also with help from my 3d-printer).
Nice job!
Cheers!
but if you try sometimes you just might find
Wow! Thank you for the torrent of information!
БРАВО! brabo!!👏🏽
this was awesome!
Brilliant video.
💯
The most informative video that I've found.
Thanks for share your skills with us. I'd like to follow your steps and make one for me.
Greetings from chile
Yes❤
Soldering is actually not that hard when you use the flat, wide tip and turn the heat on maximum. You just have to heat the surface of whatever you want the solder to stick on up to the point of heat at which solder melts. Else you will just mush hot, liquid solder on a surface that is so cold that it hardens the solder before it can stick to it.
Yeah heat is the key. I have an old Soviet iron from my grandpa, it has a plug, nothing more lol.
FYI, re: Phantom Power, it shouldn't be a problem if the mic is already plugged in, as 48V is positive on both pins. Something only happens if there's unequal voltage between the pins. If the mic is plugged into active 48V, then this can happen, as there can be a timing difference between when the pins connect, moreso if using e.g. a TRS patch bay. Of course, if one has the option to just not run the 48V, that's even safer, but some devices only allow the option of choosing 48V per bank of 4 or 8 inputs.
I recall right after I made the video, I found a guy (probably) debunking this myth indeed:
th-cam.com/video/cJiiO6OKkkk/w-d-xo.html
but I won't take the responsibility to tell people it's ok to try, just in case :D Thank you for bringing it up and the insights!
So nice! I like the design! Nice work! Is it possible to buy one of you, or a matched pair? I record vocals, drums and sometimes orchestra. Best Regards.
Thank you Magnus!
Although I'd be happy for it to become a real product, It was mostly a proof of concept project.
Since I have a simple FDM printer - the grills are not as sturdy as I'd like them to be, so I'm not comfortable with selling it as a good quality and reliable product. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't survive the shipping.
Hopefully I'll come back to it one day and figure out how to mass produce such ventures, I believe there should be a way and I hope someone will figure it out before me :)
16:57 don't blow on it once proper tension is set, don't scream at it, and most important don't drop it. The ribbon needs to be nice and tight so it oscillate. Make sure the ribbon is not touching the magnet and that they are evenly spaced, the closer you get that ribbon to the magnet the better (ideally about the thickness of a piece of printing paper.) The 3d printed lines will transfer to the aluminum making it rigid and in turn it will move less smooth.
Turning on phantom won't burn the ribbon, DC doesn't go through the transformer, and as the both signal pins are at same potential +48v the voltage across the pins is 0v. However it's still good idea to avoid phantom.
Hello, as most of the DIY ribbon mics, the magnets are here also in an "open circuit". You can improve the magnetic field "closing" the magnetic circuit between the 2 magnets. In order to prevent any short-circuit the magnets can be recovered by some transparent epoxy.
Thank you for the insight! If you can, please elaborate on how exactly to "close" the magnetic circuit. Do you mean the magnets should touch the motor chassis? The Royer R121, from the factory reference videos I watched, just stick the magnets on epoxy, does this mean they use "open circuit" as well? They machine their motors out of a solid block of aluminum, so I doubt it "closes" the circuit, since aluminum is barely magnetic. If you know any "closed magnet circuit" ribbon mics, please give examples.
@@DimaPavlenko Well, in fact a circuit is at least always "closed", but most often it's closed by "air"... For a ribbon mike this air closing is obviously an obligation since the ribbon is in between the two opposites poles N and S. But if nothing "unifies" the other poles you have again an "air closing" on this other side. Then, if you "connect" through a ferromagnetic material these two opposites poles you now have a "really closed" circuit on this side. Try to measure the magnetic field with only the facing magnets and make the same measurement in the gap again after connecting the other poles ! You'll notice a big improvement in the magnetic field...
Hi, thanks for all the information you provide in your very instructive video, I think it's the best video on the net. Could you explain a little more how you calculate the number of turns of the primary and secondary? Best regards. 👍🙌
Thank you! Sure ^-^ The base parameters of the calculation, which you need to decide on, are the number of the secondary wraps and the desired ratio ("the voltage increas ratio"). The typical ratio that most popular premade transformers seem to have is around 1 to 36. Following the Messanovic factory video, I decided on 6 secondary wraps (not too much, as each secondary wrap will require corresponding 36 primary wraps).
So the primary (thin wire) should have around 6x36=216 wraps. Roughly measuring a single wrap length (depends on your transformer dimensions) - you multiply that value by 236 and get the length of the primary wire to cut.
That's it, the whole purpose was essentially to eliminate the need to count the wraps manually, by cutting just enough wire to keep the end ratio of primary:secondary wraps.
So, basically the core material doesn't actually matter that much. The shielding of it does.
Great video! The plastic 3d printed structure is more prone to interference in comparison to a metal structure grounded, Right? Have you tried to ground the structure of the mic someway?
Edit: I've commented before the end of the video where you talk a little more about faraday cage..
Thank you:) I mention the shielding/grounding aspect here and there in the video and have a dedicated section link in the video description to 26:27 "Bacis shielding an grounding concepts".
From my tests, when ai used the Lundahl premade transformer - it seemed I didn't need get any noticable interference. But the DIY did need at least transformer wrapped in aluminum foil and the foil grounded to XLR ground pin. It is enough for my needs, but a commercial product would need something more robust and effective. Works as a proof of concepts and home use.
The mid ground would be to use a single tube as the mic body and a simple 3d printed motor to "shove" inside. I think the DIY transformer tutorial is the most interesting part of the video, as it turned out to be simple enough and saves the most money. If you don't put your time into the equation ^-^
@@DimaPavlenko thanks for taking time to answer! About the transformers I've done some tests using repurposed transformers from ATX fonts and ac/DC adapters... It's the easiest solution, but it cuts a lot of the lower frequencies... I've done a video about that, and creating direct boxes using that kind of transformers but it's in Portuguese language... anyway, I'll be trying something like your project anytime soon! Thanks!
Great job! I have purchased the wire and amorphous core from your project. Am I to understand that you used 540 cm plus a little extra wire on both sides for the primary coil? How long was the secondary before it was bent in half? Any help would be great - thank you in advance!
Thank you :} Yes, so the primary was around 560-570 cm and you start wrapping with one end already sticking out. For the secondary do exactly the same calculation, but AFTER you wrapped the primary wire, so that a single wrap length corresponds the "fatter" core, and multiply the result by 2. Write down the numbers, adjust if needed, so for next one you'll just follow your own notes.
I see at 26:42 I've used 60 cm wire, then folded it. But in the video I've made the ends very small, since I wanted to test the transformers with quick connections. So it's a redundant step and ideally I would leave the other end much longer, to be able to solder it directly to the ribbon plate at the top of the motor. That's another positive of the DIY I guess, usually you get premade transformers with very short wires, requiring more and more soldering.
After looking at it I think 30 cm of secondary wire folded in half plus the extra is what you used correct?
Yep :) but consider making it longer, so it reaches the motor sides/ribbon ends, depending on where the transformer will be located.@@bblankman
Awesome video, can you make a video on the transformer diy style
Great video. You play much better. Do you still learn from Anton Oparin?
Thank you! :) Not officially. I was subscribed to his school for 1 year only, it gave my plenty of things to fix and work on.
The last months I was experimenting with some new concepts, to see what I (or Anton) was missing during the lessons, because I felt something was still of in my pick grip and speed.
The 1:39 snippet, I learned a while ago from here: th-cam.com/video/GdNI5hOP5CM/w-d-xo.html
was one of the songs I use to check my progress and whether the new concepts work in the long term.
I feel I've figured some important concepts, which I assume complement Antons lessons, but currently I'm too busy to make a proper dedicated video of my findings.
Hopefully I'll do it during summer.
I could be wrong, but it seems like a bad idea to have a plastic body because you lose the EMF shielding properties, which is significant especially because of the high step-up ratio of the transformer. 1:35 is a lot of voltage gain for noise. It might not matter at home, but it is a limiting factor.
Yeah, I discuss how I solved it at 19:29 and some additional ideas. For daily "use and abuse" - indeed just get a real Royer R121, or some commercial one.
For home use and getting used to tinker with ribbon mics (like replace the ribbon yourself) - it's a fun project that works.
Especially if used as baseline for further development. Like the TH-camr "Frank Olson Twins" makes gorgeous wooden mics. I think these are great for eye catching/unique esthetics in videos. I'd use his ones for a "one-shot" budget videos in a studio or at home, if you have some intimate vibe going on, like one guitar, or violin, or a guitar with a small vintage drum kit.
hello man!!
thanks for the info about ribbonmic...
Could you tell me what is the thickness of the double wire used in the primary and the wire used in the secondary? and how many laps did you use?
i got weird results when i tried to build a ribbonmic... using much thinner wires... aluminum foil... from a cigarette box....i would like to get a good sound quality like yours...haha
Hey Luis!
Sounds like you're having a lot of fun :D
Of course it's hard to tell for sure what exactly lead to your results, without seeing and hearing what you got.
I suggest you upload a test video to TH-cam, so we can all learn from it.
But also maybe getting some device like the "Cloud Lifter" first, to amplify the input properly.
It made testing and using the mic eventually much easier.
Most budget audio interfaces (like my Focusrite ones) struggle to amplify such low output microphone, like ribbons.
From my failed attempt at using the ferrite core transformer, I think the most important component is the the transformer core material.
The amorphous toroid (or Lundahl's classical design) seems to be most common and good sounding one.
Anyway, on the page I made for this project: dimapavlenko.com/3d-printed-diy-ribbon-microphone/
there's a section listing the parts I used and their dimensions (in case anyone plans to get them from other sources).
I'm not proficient in engineering, but from the info on the parts, I used the following wires:
- primary winding: 28AWG / 0.33mm
- secondary winding: 26AWG / 0.4mm
I don't think thinner wires are the cause. Most likely it's the transformer material.
As mentioned at 24:54 "How to make DIY amorphous core toroidal transformer
" video section, the key parameter, from which I deduced the number of laps (which eventually used simply to calculate the length of the primary wire) is the number of secondary windings (6), which I took from the Mesanovic transformer video. So the primary (thinner) wire, was around 6*36*[single lap length] long. The "36" comes from the voltage increase ratio, which seems to be around 36 in both Lundahl and Mesanovic transformer designs.
I bought your files and I'm making the version with the 1-1/2" x 1/4" x 1/4" magnets (magnets haven't arrived yet sadly, but I'm getting there). I tried using some metal screws and nuts but they stuck out too far, and i accidentally broke my first microphone body (which printed perfectly thanks to your printing tips, btw, thanks!). Moving on though I found a great solution. M2.5 heat set inserts fit perfectly in the existing holes, and I had some short m2.5 screws which just barely grip the heat set inserts without pulling through, so everything is perfectly flush! :)
I actually tried my hand at winding a transformer last night after watching your video and the mesanovic video, and had better success in my first trial than I anticipated. I just have a few questions, and I wondered if I could get in contact with you to discuss a little?
Either way, Cheers! and thanks for the fun project.
Thanks Chris! I assume the base of the grill snaped, that's the most volnurable part, hence I advise people to try SLS printing if possible. I need to find local SLS printing service myself and try as well.
You can contact me either via the site form (in the footer of every page) or Facebook Messenger, the link to my profile is on the channel page header. Easier to exchange images there if needed:)
The DIY transformer and currugator will probably become the most valuable parts of the video :D
@@DimaPavlenko I think you could do another video entirely on the DIY transformers because this kind of information is not easy to find, especially on youtube! I have sent you a message and friend request on Facebook. Thanks again! :)
Hey my man super great job!!! Thank you for your patiences and for sharing 🙏 I'm in PHX AZ, record heat studios no time and no 3D printer....so how much your royer in green if u can.?.?
I do have a 3d printer and love to use it, however. I was at a hardware store a few days ago and I was looking at a length of copper pipe. You could use that for the body by just taking a hacksaw to it to make vents. If you solder the copper pipe to the XLR ground lead that would give you a pretty good EMF shield. What do you think?
Sure, that would be the ideal mic body! Also a very nice and unique looking one.
hello! first of all congratulations! transformer cores have any name or code?
Primero que nada, felicitaciones! Los núcleos de los transformadores tienen algún código para identificarlos? Excelente video y proyecto! Espero tu respuesta! Saludos!
Thank you! Nope, in the description there is a link to my web page about the mic and the link to the exact transformers I bought.
The only description there is:
Product Name: Amorphous Nanocrystalline Magnetic Ring (10*14*4.5) 1405
Outer diameter (OD): 16mm inner diameter (ID): 8mm high (HT): 7mm
I think there are several types of "amorphous" alloys. I don't have the knowledge whether it has any impact on its properties as a transformer or how much. I know it worked great with these specific cores. To be honest, as someone mentioned in some other comment, I also preferred the DIY transformer sound:)
sound great !! Have you sold any ? 👋🇨🇦
Thank you! Since it was mostly a research project, the STL files (3D models) does sell occasionally. I think people may be buying it for the corrugation device, not necessarily the whole mic.
Do you have further instructions on how to do the DIY transformer?
Hey, there are links to the parts I used in the post on my website:
dimapavlenko.com/3d-printed-diy-ribbon-microphone
is it possible to use Gold or silver thin layer instead of aluminum ribbon ?
Great question, I don't know but worth trying.
There's some thread on this topic here:
groupdiy.com/threads/ribbon-mic-element.47896/
Some suggest also copper and there some "Roswellite" article on Shure mics website (www.shure.com/en-US/performance-production/louder/what-is-this-stuff).
I guess aluminum was just cheaper.
Figured we can try ChatGPT take on this topic, when asked "Can ribbon microphone use a ribbon foil other than aluminum?":
[you can ask for resources]
Yes, ribbon microphones can use ribbon foils made of materials other than aluminum, but it's not very common.
Traditionally, ribbon microphones have used aluminum ribbon foils because they are relatively light, durable, and have good conductivity. However, other materials have been experimented with over the years, including gold, silver, and even graphene.
Gold ribbon foils, for example, have been used in some high-end ribbon microphones because they have a higher tensile strength and conductivity than aluminum, which can lead to a smoother and more detailed sound. However, gold is much more expensive than aluminum, which makes it impractical for most applications.
Silver ribbon foils have also been used in some ribbon microphones because they have similar properties to gold but are somewhat less expensive. Graphene is another material that has been experimented with in ribbon microphones because of its extremely high conductivity and strength, but it is still relatively new and expensive.
Overall, while ribbon microphones can use ribbon foils made of materials other than aluminum, aluminum remains the most common and practical material for most applications due to its combination of properties and cost-effectiveness.
How much did the ribbon cost by it self?
do you have links to buy the wires for the transformers?
For the primary coil I used a roll of magnet wire I found in local electronics shop (gauge mentioned on my website: dimapavlenko.com/3d-printed-diy-ribbon-microphone/ )
For the secondary coil I bought "magnet wire kit" from my country popular DIY electronics website: www.4project.co.il/product/magnet-wire-kit
The kit had an assortment of 3 gauges, so I think one such kit from your local store should be enough for first time project.
Translation of the page:
22AWG - around 12 meters
26AWG - around 22 meters
30AWG - around 61 meters
Not sure if the gauge even matters that much, it would most likely work the same if I used the roll wire I already had, just liked the color differences/esthetics of the Mesanovic transformer. Even though no one can see it lol.
Wait wait wait ........ was that one riff Altyn by Tatarka ?!?!?!
lol yeah :D
I can understand the high cost of shipping but we have a greedy government in Greece where they want to charge you tax on shipping as well as tax and customs on the product you purchased. Not only that try tracking an order coming from outside world. Original shipper give you a tracking number but if they do not have local delivery they pass it off to "local" companies but they fail to provide the original shipper their own shipping number. Net result you don’t know who has received your package out of ten different companies. You could call them all but since the shipping companies don’t interchange data with the original shipper, one is out of luck finding their package. Even providing a phone number does not help, most often they fail to print it on the shipping label.
As for shielding, try to find someone who can print metal. I heard if you supply your print file to JLC PCB they can print metal but at what cost? I managed to get hold of some nylon gears and was able to "fold" ordinary kitchen foil successfully between the gears. Where did you source your foil from? Too bad one cannot use very thin stainless steel for the ribbon, it might be more durable than aluminum but I suspect that the frequency range of the element would change making it necessary to go with even a thinner stainless foil.
Hi! Your project is awesome!
Can you try make aluminium band corrugated with not straight gear but with herringbone gear?
One of manufacturer said that it's make alu band more robust.
I wish a little later I'll have possibility try reproduce your project!
Thank you! I don't have much time lately, so most projects including TH-cam are on hold for now.
Yeah, I came across some alternative corrugation patterns, but to properly test it you'd most likely need a bit more precise measuring devices and approach - having few control ribbons and somehow measure their elasticity robustness. Because in practice I couldn't even feel I'm holding a ribbon, so no way I could control and conclude anything doing it by hand :)
Maybe someone will suggest some DIY approach though in comments.
Are the stl files available? Price?
Hi :) There are links in the video description.
Ahhh Buzz!?!? I watched the vid at least three times and the fourth time I just noticed u said that you are in Israel!?!?😳 You are even more my hero!!! Make lots of vids,. Or mics,. Or music!?!!😁👍
Слушай что скажешь раздумываю пойти в закрытый клуб Опарина. Стоит не стоит ? Есть ли у тебя прогресс? Как проходит обучение ну и т д.
Если интересует техника Гилберта - то думаю стоит, но в этой темме очень много ньюансов. Прогресс появился относительно недавно, около года назад случайно обнаружил на чем основан хват Антона и Гилберта, он оказался ключем к их ПШ. Пытаюсь видео сформулировать с выводами, в помощь тем кто у него занимался.
Несколько ньюансов на пример (плюсы и минусы):
+ Правая рука - ради этого стоит, Антон ближе всех подобрался к истине (хвата, опоры и движения).
- Правая рука - судя по себе, всё равно пришлось докапываться до еще более простых основ. Я и большенство естественно ожидали/ожидают что он решит все их проблемы, а это пока не так. Думаю видео поможет в этом плане как вспомогательное пособие. Когда выйдет еще не знаю, сложное.
+ Много хорошего материалы - есть нарезки ответов по темам, удобно услышать ответы другим, очень часто находились варианты объяснений которые помогали понять суть.
- Левая рука - предпачитаю школу Гилберта (глушевка, вибрато, бенды). В плане синхронизации Фреда. На самом деле особо левой рукой не загружался, не чувствовал нужды лично. После классической гитары мне школа Гилберта помогла перестроится на (блюзовый) хват электро.
- С связью и ответами там постоянно какие-то истории - достаточно посмотреть на коменты под моими видео от англо-язычных ребят. Почему так? Не знаю. Нужно иметь в виду что возможно придется стучаться тупо во все места - телеграм, сайт, фейсбук. Странно но как-то так. Когда я там был вроде было почти нормально (один раз он в больнице лежал). Дальше не понятно что было, как там сейчас и что будет.
* На днях кто-то кто долго собирался к нему записаться решил в конце концов не идти, после того как ознакомился с условиями на его сайте. На мой взгляд там стандартные требования онлайн курсов (не распростронять материал школы и т.д и т.п), но лучше почитать.
В принципе советую попробывать всех кого можете. Все очень сильно отличаются, методологии, преподнос материала, структура школы (платформа). У всех найдутся толковые детали. Есть вроде Олейник, Забуруев, Головин, и наверное много других техничных дают уроки. На данный момент не один не научит всему скорей всего. Поэтому надо пробывать, эксперементировать.
@@DimaPavlenko спасибо за подробный ответ . Просто интересует в целом развитие . Считаю что мне бы в целом нужно все про качать . То есть и штрих и бэнды и вибрато и синхронизацию . И цена вроде адекватная плюс год абонемент. Хз единственное что не могу понять как происходит контроль прогресса со стороны Антона ? И как выдаются здания упражнения? Как в целом идёт рекрут студента ? Нужно снимать видео о пределенной работе или что ?
@@MalyshevAlexsandr Когда я там был, после оплаты (причем пару дней а не сразу) меня добавляли в 2 группы в Телеграме (одна с Антоном для отсылки видео или вопросов, по вашему желанию и настроению) и как то в Фейсбук. То есть при записи заполнял там свой Телеграм и Фейсбук.
Материал в основном был в Фейсбуке (в странных закладках, пришлось там потоптаться, и это при том что я Фейсбком и пользуюсь). При записи вроде приходил список ресурсов и рекомендаций с чего начать. Вроде и в Google Drive что-то было.
То есть единственный контроль со стороны Антона происходит если вы отсылаете видео на обзор. Некоторые посылали задания, кто-то просто вопросы, кто-то соло просил оценить. Естественно всё в рамках техники и теории.
Надеюсь когда-нибудь вложит усилий, хотя бы создаст полноценный сайт/архив и автоматизирует запись. Как у Гилберта, хотя и там было не гладко, был интересный форум, отвечал людим про примочки, песни, туры но поиск был ужасный.
Судя по вашему каналу у вас большое преймущество благодаря металу (об этом собираюсь и в видео поговорить, почему металисты всегда техничней остальных), так как металисты привыкли играть агрессивно, пробивая струну, соответственно не приходится отвыкать от игры прыжками (а это несколько месяцев для всех остальных). Также запястье и предплечье обычно повернуты "в гитару", мне пришлось это отрабатывать, иначе переходы контролировать не возможно, да и вообще стабилизировать штрих, не умея применять опору при разных углах предплечья.
@@DimaPavlenko Я понял спасибо за ответ . Буду думать. Выбираю между Скайп уроками и Системой Опарина . Есть просто ещё один талантливый гитарист и он обучает онлайн . Наверное стоит для начала позаниматься с ним и потом уже идти к системе Опарина ? Хотелось бы просто по больше контроля со стороны преподавателя.
@@MalyshevAlexsandr Считаю что стоит, я к Антону тоже пришел в последнюю очередь, полезно побывать у разных, тогда проще понять кто что умеет объяснять, как методы и логистика влияет на обучение/обучаемость и что у кого лучше брать.
My name is dima pavlenko
I am sereiusly