I got the R200SS as well and with the 'EQ6-R PRO Synscan' tripod. For power I use a 'k2 power bank 50000mah' with a separate bought '20V to 12V zener diod adapter' so I can feed the mount its 12V 5 amp power. ... It was not easy finding that zener diod and when I did I had to manually set it to the right output and triple checked it's working with a multimeter before connecting it to the mount ... it works awesome and since its a regular powerbank I can use it for non-astronomy purposes thus it won't die like a car battery from not being used enough. First thing I did as an OCD kind of guy ... was unscrew the secondary mirror, install 'Bobs knobs' on it and the primary mirror and collignate it believing it couldn't have gone through the entire journey to my doorstep with its collignation intact. It's a very robust system and it took quite a bit of effort because of the sturdiness of the springs on the screws but ... it's dead center ever since ... guess I probably will never have to do it again ;D But now I know why it was a lot harder then on the average Newtonian ... ;D Indeed it comes with only the Vixen style mounting plate which is indeed not good for mounting on the Skywatcher mount. I got a broad 'Losmandy dovetail plate' which fits excellently. I also inserted two small screws with a nut holding them into the two most forward holes of the dovetail, so in case the setup would slide in the mount clamp, these would prevent it from falling out completely. I used a marker to indicate the default positions of the mount for polar alignement and where to put the counter balance weights + the position of the ota in the tube clamps. I use it for visual observations and I can wholeheartedly recommend the 'astro gadget' equipment: astro-gadget.net/ I bought a Wifi-adapter which replaces the handbox and have never used anything other then my smartphone to command the scope via 'SynScan pro' to set up and than switch over to 'SkySafari 6 pro' for the rest of the session. It works awesome ;) Bought the appropriate wifi-adapter as well for my 'Meade LX200'. I bought an extra 'OTA tube ring' and attached it only to the OTA between the finderscope and the other two rings so it rests against the other tube ring. It's the only one that's screwed tight. Because of this I can rotate the OTA freely thus keeping the ocular at an easy viewable position without having the risk of the OTA sliding in the tube rings. I found this life hack on the internet ^* I've kept the original focuser but unscrewed the '60M adapter + 1.25" ocular tube' and replaced those with a 'Baader 2" clicklock (M60 thread)' and a 'Baader 1.25" clicklock'. The 2" Baader is a custom model for the R200SS. Because the picture of the scope on the website of the merchant had the OTA with both the optional dual speed focusknob and finderscope installed, and I got the model with only the finderscope, I got the dual speed focusser for free from my dealer ^^ I'm very thankful to my dealer since I would not have liked to buy the dual speed at its price and instead would have bought a completely new focusser all together.
I just found your channel a few days ago. I thought I'd seen every astronomy video ever published to You Tube. I'be been binging on your very informative and entertaining videos. You have the best TH-cam channel! Thank you for all you've done as it has helped me with my astronomic imaging adventure!
The PH corrector is very difficult to order and it finally arrived yesterday. I also located the ring for the corrector in my pile of rings and now it is fitted perfectly with my camera!
Thanks for the great video Cuiv. I use a SkyWatcher Quattro 250mm F4. I have a coma corrector but so far haven't ever found a reducer for it. Intrigued by yours! By the way I think the device for connecting the EAF to the shaft is called a Flexi Coupler. Thanks again, I think all your videos are superb.
Oh wow that's a massive scope! And yes, the SW have coma correctors, but not focal reducers. The R200SS is really a great scope! Thanks on the terminology :D
First!! Cuiv, those are called couplers, there are 2 types a solid and a flexible, and most times you want a flexible coupler for focusing to reduce the motors vibrations and if not 100% in line the motor shaft & focuser shaft.
I have the ASI533 and just purchased the r200ss, so your video is very helpful. The r200ss has great optics, but the focuser is a pipe fitter's nightmare - all these fittings to screw together! Neither my Baader MPCC nor Paracorr coma correctors can be made to work to bring the camera to focus, so I will have to "bite the bullet" and buy the Corrector PH, which is very expensive in North America (about 70,000 yen) and on backorder. Might have been worthwhile to pay extra for the Feathertouch focuser option for the R200ss, although the Corrector PH might not work with it!
Congrats on your purchase David! And yes, the Vixen focusers are very specific, the reducer actually fits within the corrector tube. The Corrector PH is excellent, but I think for the 533 the Coma Corrector v3, which is much less expensive, would work perfectly well as well. This is so exciting, but I hope you get that corrector situation figured out soon! Good luck & clear skies!
The Vixen R200SS is a beautiful scope, and with the corrector PH become a real well corrected astrograph, is in my wish list.. Many thanks for your videos..
I like to install a bolt at the front of the dovetail. When you install on the mount you can rest it there and it can stop the scope from sliding out if you didn't get it tight enough. Still using that ghetto cardboard lol.
Thanks for this video Cuiv. I ordered the telescope and the corrector PH. Thingverse has a spacer for this telescope for ZWO EAF, but I am thinking of going with the PrimaLuceLab SESTO SENSO 2. I am wondering if the focuser shaft is 25mm like most newtonians?
I am completely gobsmacked that the troll brigade has not informed you that your tripod is the wrong way. But then again, they know everything so there is no need to watch a beginner video. Keep up the good work.
Hahaha, I actually mentioned it in the first video! The knob/pin/whatever you call it on the SW tripod seems to be secured by Loctite, so I couldn't move it to the other side, even though ideally I wanted to (for psychological reasons more than anything else, really). Meh, not a big deal. Thank you!
Are the light leaks around the focuser where the drawtube enters the hole? Does light leak in from the mirror cell area as well? I'm asking as I am seeing some light in my test frames with the 294MC Pro. Also, I'll be out with Sarah as soon as I get more mobile. I had knee surgery on Thursday.
"..ghetto thing.." Empty roll of duct tape @9:58 ? I use cheap blue plastic tarps - as light shields. Everyone around here bought those harbor freight fascia - mounted solar led white pathway lights.
Is there a source for the spacer in the USA? I'm eventually going to remote focus. Modernizing my R200SS. Guide scope/autoguider installed. Waiting on SS2KPC to be repaired as well.
Not that I know off, but any metal plate of 5mm thickness with two holes (or a large oblong hole) in it would work. 3D printing, or heck even compressed cardboard would likely work well enough!
I'm not quite sure I understand the question actually - but if you put the filter at the front of the CC, then ZWO cameras do have the right adapters to achieve 55mm distance from the M42 threads of the CC!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Well, suppose for instance that I don't have a filter wheel. The older coma corrector screws into the bottom of the removable 2" adapter. I will eventually get a 294MC. I did check my drawtube and it is indeed blackened. More parts coming in today so there will be another opening extravaganza video with Sarah.
Thank you Brian and welcome to the channel! I never collimated by R200SS - I bought it specifically because it's collimated at factory, and doesn't require user-collimation (thick vanes make the collimation stable). However, I am in Japan, where delivery providers actually take care of packages, so it seems that in the US, user-collimation may be needed after a trip in a UPS helltruck... there are instructions here, but I've never tried it. www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/46096189/collimating-your-r200ss-vixen-optics
@@CuivTheLazyGeek thanks for your response. That’s one reason I bought it but I don’t know if mine was uncollimated in transport from Germany to UK or if I accidentally did so myself by knocking the scope. I presume it’s not collimated because when I defocused image through eyepiece the spider vanes did not appear to be perfectly centred. I’m glad you never needed to carry it out…I’ll check the instructions.
It's a bit cheaper in Japan, especially when bought as a set with the R200SS. It gives you an F3.8 system that is extremely well corrected, and doesn't need any fiddling around or collimation. It's kind of the Vixen logic: do you want something that's more expensive but that works out of the box? Or something you will need to constantly fiddle with? :D I'm currently agonizing between SXD2, CEM25, and AZEQ5 as my replacement for the Crux Tv mount I used, and the SXD2 is basically twice the price. But I know it will work beautifully straight out of the box (I've owned one before).
I got the R200SS as well and with the 'EQ6-R PRO Synscan' tripod.
For power I use a 'k2 power bank 50000mah' with a separate bought '20V to 12V zener diod adapter' so I can feed the mount its 12V 5 amp power.
... It was not easy finding that zener diod and when I did I had to manually set it to the right output and triple checked it's working with a multimeter before connecting it to the mount ... it works awesome and since its a regular powerbank I can use it for non-astronomy purposes thus it won't die like a car battery from not being used enough.
First thing I did as an OCD kind of guy ... was unscrew the secondary mirror, install 'Bobs knobs' on it and the primary mirror and collignate it believing it couldn't have gone through the entire journey to my doorstep with its collignation intact.
It's a very robust system and it took quite a bit of effort because of the sturdiness of the springs on the screws but ... it's dead center ever since ... guess I probably will never have to do it again ;D
But now I know why it was a lot harder then on the average Newtonian ... ;D
Indeed it comes with only the Vixen style mounting plate which is indeed not good for mounting on the Skywatcher mount.
I got a broad 'Losmandy dovetail plate' which fits excellently. I also inserted two small screws with a nut holding them into the two most forward holes of the dovetail, so in case the setup would slide in the mount clamp, these would prevent it from falling out completely.
I used a marker to indicate the default positions of the mount for polar alignement and where to put the counter balance weights + the position of the ota in the tube clamps.
I use it for visual observations and I can wholeheartedly recommend the
'astro gadget' equipment: astro-gadget.net/
I bought a Wifi-adapter which replaces the handbox and have never used anything other then my smartphone to command the scope via 'SynScan pro' to set up and than switch over to 'SkySafari 6 pro' for the rest of the session.
It works awesome ;)
Bought the appropriate wifi-adapter as well for my 'Meade LX200'.
I bought an extra 'OTA tube ring' and attached it only to the OTA between the finderscope and the other two rings so it rests against the other tube ring.
It's the only one that's screwed tight. Because of this I can rotate the OTA freely thus keeping the ocular at an easy viewable position without having the risk of the OTA sliding in the tube rings.
I found this life hack on the internet ^*
I've kept the original focuser but unscrewed the '60M adapter + 1.25" ocular tube' and replaced those with a 'Baader 2" clicklock (M60 thread)' and a 'Baader 1.25" clicklock'. The 2" Baader is a custom model for the R200SS.
Because the picture of the scope on the website of the merchant had the OTA with both the optional dual speed focusknob and finderscope installed, and I got the model with only the finderscope, I got the dual speed focusser for free from my dealer ^^
I'm very thankful to my dealer since I would not have liked to buy the dual speed at its price and instead would have bought a completely new focusser all together.
I just found your channel a few days ago. I thought I'd seen every astronomy video ever published to You Tube. I'be been binging on your very informative and entertaining videos. You have the best TH-cam channel! Thank you for all you've done as it has helped me with my astronomic imaging adventure!
Wow, thanks for that positive feedback Dave! I'm glad this is helpful to you! Spread the word ;) Good luck & clear skies!
The PH corrector is very difficult to order and it finally arrived yesterday. I also located the ring for the corrector in my pile of rings and now it is fitted perfectly with my camera!
Thanks for the great video Cuiv. I use a SkyWatcher Quattro 250mm F4. I have a coma corrector but so far haven't ever found a reducer for it. Intrigued by yours! By the way I think the device for connecting the EAF to the shaft is called a Flexi Coupler. Thanks again, I think all your videos are superb.
Oh wow that's a massive scope! And yes, the SW have coma correctors, but not focal reducers. The R200SS is really a great scope! Thanks on the terminology :D
First!! Cuiv, those are called couplers, there are 2 types a solid and a flexible, and most times you want a flexible coupler for focusing to reduce the motors vibrations and if not 100% in line the motor shaft & focuser shaft.
Thanks for the first comment! :D Thanks for the info, good to know! I was wondering why they were flexible like that.
I have the ASI533 and just purchased the r200ss, so your video is very helpful. The r200ss has great optics, but the focuser is a pipe fitter's nightmare - all these fittings to screw together! Neither my Baader MPCC nor Paracorr coma correctors can be made to work to bring the camera to focus, so I will have to "bite the bullet" and buy the Corrector PH, which is very expensive in North America (about 70,000 yen) and on backorder. Might have been worthwhile to pay extra for the Feathertouch focuser option for the R200ss, although the Corrector PH might not work with it!
Congrats on your purchase David! And yes, the Vixen focusers are very specific, the reducer actually fits within the corrector tube. The Corrector PH is excellent, but I think for the 533 the Coma Corrector v3, which is much less expensive, would work perfectly well as well. This is so exciting, but I hope you get that corrector situation figured out soon! Good luck & clear skies!
The Vixen R200SS is a beautiful scope, and with the corrector PH become a real well corrected astrograph, is in my wish list.. Many thanks for your videos..
I have one…but don’t know how to collimate it. Any tips?
I like to install a bolt at the front of the dovetail. When you install on the mount you can rest it there and it can stop the scope from sliding out if you didn't get it tight enough. Still using that ghetto cardboard lol.
That's a very good idea as well! I have those bolts on my C9.25, but not my Newt. Mmmmh...
Thanks for this video Cuiv. I ordered the telescope and the corrector PH. Thingverse has a spacer for this telescope for ZWO EAF, but I am thinking of going with the PrimaLuceLab SESTO SENSO 2. I am wondering if the focuser shaft is 25mm like most newtonians?
I am completely gobsmacked that the troll brigade has not informed you that your tripod is the wrong way. But then again, they know everything so there is no need to watch a beginner video. Keep up the good work.
Hahaha, I actually mentioned it in the first video! The knob/pin/whatever you call it on the SW tripod seems to be secured by Loctite, so I couldn't move it to the other side, even though ideally I wanted to (for psychological reasons more than anything else, really). Meh, not a big deal. Thank you!
Cuiv, please, could you give more information about the piece you put between the reducer and the filter wheel?
Are the light leaks around the focuser where the drawtube enters the hole? Does light leak in from the mirror cell area as well? I'm asking as I am seeing some light in my test frames with the 294MC Pro. Also, I'll be out with Sarah as soon as I get more mobile. I had knee surgery on Thursday.
Yes, it leaks through both places: rear cell and drawtube entry point... I hope you will recover soon from your knee surgery!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Oh, I'm fine. Thank you. Just takes time--medial meniscus tear. Good drugs, surgeon.
Great video. Thanks.
My pleasure! Thanks for the feedback!
"..ghetto thing.." Empty roll of duct tape @9:58 ? I use cheap blue plastic tarps - as light shields. Everyone around here bought those harbor freight fascia - mounted solar led white pathway lights.
Oh that's a great idea too! What I have is just an amazon box cardboard rolled up :) Still, it seems to work!
I got a cheap set of blackout curtains and cut them up for light shielding.
Is there a source for the spacer in the USA? I'm eventually going to remote focus. Modernizing my R200SS. Guide scope/autoguider installed. Waiting on SS2KPC to be repaired as well.
Not that I know off, but any metal plate of 5mm thickness with two holes (or a large oblong hole) in it would work. 3D printing, or heck even compressed cardboard would likely work well enough!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Or shave down a chunk of a teflon cutting board with a saw and hand drill.
@@Philip-KA4KOE that sounds even better :-)
Given the focuser arrangement of the R200SS, will the camera fit to the scope with the hardware included with the imager?
I'm not quite sure I understand the question actually - but if you put the filter at the front of the CC, then ZWO cameras do have the right adapters to achieve 55mm distance from the M42 threads of the CC!
@@CuivTheLazyGeek Well, suppose for instance that I don't have a filter wheel. The older coma corrector screws into the bottom of the removable 2" adapter. I will eventually get a 294MC. I did check my drawtube and it is indeed blackened. More parts coming in today so there will be another opening extravaganza video with Sarah.
Hi Cuiv the Lazy Geek….good channel. I’ve got an R200SS too…any tips on collimating it? I’m complete new to astrophotography…
Thank you Brian and welcome to the channel! I never collimated by R200SS - I bought it specifically because it's collimated at factory, and doesn't require user-collimation (thick vanes make the collimation stable). However, I am in Japan, where delivery providers actually take care of packages, so it seems that in the US, user-collimation may be needed after a trip in a UPS helltruck... there are instructions here, but I've never tried it. www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/46096189/collimating-your-r200ss-vixen-optics
@@CuivTheLazyGeek thanks for your response. That’s one reason I bought it but I don’t know if mine was uncollimated in transport from Germany to UK or if I accidentally did so myself by knocking the scope. I presume it’s not collimated because when I defocused image through eyepiece the spider vanes did not appear to be perfectly centred. I’m glad you never needed to carry it out…I’ll check the instructions.
Cuiv, where are you originally from? Why you live in Tokyo? Just curious. I enjoy your videos. Thanks...
Maybe I should do a "Cuiv answers questions" video :D I'm originally from France. And the reason is "it was a woman" :)
Hi Cuiv,
What is the depth (thickness) of the insert for fitting the EAF onto your R200SS please?
mamma mia! That Vixen PH Corrector / Reducer is over $600, marked down from $900!? Is it worth it?
It's a bit cheaper in Japan, especially when bought as a set with the R200SS. It gives you an F3.8 system that is extremely well corrected, and doesn't need any fiddling around or collimation. It's kind of the Vixen logic: do you want something that's more expensive but that works out of the box? Or something you will need to constantly fiddle with? :D I'm currently agonizing between SXD2, CEM25, and AZEQ5 as my replacement for the Crux Tv mount I used, and the SXD2 is basically twice the price. But I know it will work beautifully straight out of the box (I've owned one before).
OPT is funny all there stuff is super marked down to the price everyone else is selling at. They are all right to deal with.
Ok, got my answer ;)
You need a 3D printer and replace the cardboard!!
That would indeed look better - but you know me... I'm too lazy (and if it ain't broke, don't fix it!)