How to Build Timber Frame Walls: The Ultimate Guide - Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- #office_boy_builder #timberconstruction #diyenthusiast
In this video tutorial, we'll guide you through the process of building timber frame walls for your DIY project. Timber frame walls are a popular choice due to their strength, durability, and energy efficiency. In this comprehensive guide, we'll cover everything you need to know to build your own timber frame walls from planning to finishing touches. We'll cover topics such as selecting the right timber, measuring and cutting, assembling the wall frames, insulation, sheathing, and more. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced DIY enthusiast, this tutorial is an excellent resource for anyone looking to tackle a timber frame project. Follow along with our step-by-step instructions and you'll be on your way to building strong and durable timber frame walls in no time. And also see our next part.
Here is the kit I use:
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Circular Saw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Jigsaw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional GAS 35 M AFC Wet/Dry Extractor
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Bosch Professional GMF 1600 CE Corded 240V Multi-Function Router
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Occidental Leather 5089 LG Seven Bag Framer Tool Belt
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Occidental Leather 5355 Stronghold Comfort Package
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Hikoki Nail Gun
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Bosch Table Saw & leg stand
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Damp Proof Membrane
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18mm Chipboard Flooring
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Hi there, really enjoyed this video series, it's been very informative and given me the push I needed to take on an extension project!
I'm just wondering how you weather sealed the timber frame where it bolted to the existing masonry wall? I've been researching and every solution is to use facing brickwork to provide protection from wind driven rain. The only other solution I can think of is a stepped lead flashing (like you see on chimneys), which is then lapped over the timber frame and behind the cladding / rendering - however this seems a little excessive?
Any thoughts / insights as to what you did with this junction is really appreciated!
Thanks mate, glad you've found it enjoyable and helpful!
I put a DPM membrane behind the upright timber that bolted into the masonry, where the extension was being attached to the existing house.
You can do the same for the rafters too, which makes a slightly hard job even trickier, but probably worth it in the long run.
Then you have lead flashing over the top (stepped or straight) which laps onto the roof tiles. Hope that makes sense and helps.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder makes perfect sense, thank you for your help!
I'm still intrigued with the fact that you didn't insulate and lay the floor deck before building the walls. It's much more efficient and safer, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Good presentation, but surprised that you are working out on the job the framing dimensions, window heights, counter heights etc. Would have been easier if you had prepared drawings beforehand, which would also make plumbing and wiring routes easier later.
We did have all of the basics down on paper, but it's quite common for architects to not give exact dimensions for those sort of specific details because invariably the real world site is different from the theory on paper.
Generally they put a blurb down the side of the drawings that says something along the lines of "don't scale off these drawings, and the builder is to check the measurements and confirm locations when on site".
We were doing just that, translating our rough sketched out drawings/dimensions/measurements into the real world.
I feel that steel between the two 8"×3"s was unnecessary, a rip of plywood would have been sufficient. Warmer as well, 🔨 🇮🇪
I’m looking to build up off a 9” solid block wall (finished in sand & cement render)using the same system as you, am I right in thinking I’ll need to let the air gap and cement fibre sheet overhang ?
Would you be willing to create a plan drawing for this ?
Yes, the 25mm battens and cement fibre board do hang over slightly past the block work, and ideally hang down slightly too, to push the DPM down a bit so there is a run off drop. You can attach any bug screen to the underside of the timber battens, although our SE didn't specify one and the building inspector didn't require one. I'm guessing that's because of where we are in the country and a complete lack of building eating bugs in our area...
Can't believe people are uploading such useful videos. Really appreciate, thank you.
Cheers mate, glad it's helpful! Enjoy
@officeboybuilder need your help and advice on similar extension. Can you reach out to me?
Its nice to see you using a membrane were timber touches masonry many people overlook this
Indeed, always a good call, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Illbruck ME220
my joiner drilled through the dpc and dpm to fix his wallplate to the block am I going to have damp problems in the future. he said he had to do it to stop the fram moving and that it was normal.
Yes that is very normal - that is what was specified by the Structural Engineer on my build too.
@OfficeBoyBuilder just seems funny to go to all that trouble with dpm and dpc and then for him to just drill through it to get his wall plate secured. He said it was normal practice there was no other way or the kit may move.
So may I ask you what is the difference between black jack and the normal plastic dpm??
As I understand it, Black Jack DPM is a bitumen rubber based product which you can paint on top a surface. It conforms with building codes etc. So the different applications must just be situation specific. I needed something to cover the entire floor area and lap up the walls too, so a large plastic sheet made sense.
I've never used it, but to my mind Black Jack would be great in situations where you're needing to add a protective layer but can't justify a whole role/sheet of plastic. It would also work as a roofing product too.
I follow skill builder / renovation couple etc etc only just found your channel. Look forward to binging on the content 😂
What render backing board would you recommend? Length height and width information especially 👍👍
12mm cement board/render carrier board. Normally the sheets come in standard 8'-4' sheets (2440x1220 in metric). Often they will have little polystyrene balls in them to reduce weight and increase insulation value.
Whats the chemical fix used under the sole plate? Did you go between the brick and the membrane, the bottom membrane and the new layer of dpm, the dpm and the timber, or was it a combination of these joints?
It is a cement based chemical fix made by Rawl (like Rawl Plugs). It was only used at the point where the bolts were driven into the brickwork. It wasn't used along the whole length of the sole plate.
@OfficeBoyBuilder ahhh got ya! Think you said it in one of the next videos, makes sense!
Hi
You have inspired me to build my extension in the same method.
Would appreciate any guidance you can share.
My location is Ha7 area
Wishing you all the best with your build, you can do it! Watch the series, and if you have questions just ask - there's lots of support here from other viewers too.
Really detailed video 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice work. I guess you wouldn't have been able to do the boundary wall in timber if the neighbour had an house extension. Unless you left enough gap to do the render but would mean space lost in your extension.
Yeah I think you're right, it would be much harder, although not impossible I don't think...you can build the wall and lift it into place (if there are enough of you) and if you're building right up against your neighbors wall, there's an argument that it doesn't need to be rendered because it can't be seen...so long as you get the fire rating from a sufficient board, it doesn't matter how it looks
I'm binge watching your videos but don't want to cheat and look ahead...just wondering how you were planning to get to the party wall to finish it with all that bamboo and the hedgerow there?
Rain doesn’t really matter when erecting timber framing, only heavy wind, get the thing up!! Haha. Nice work!
And where do you buy the insert grill from ? Guessing it would be 25mm wide and small enough to keep insects out ?
You use a flitch beam over the main door but nothing over the 2m window. I wouldn't think that is correct bearing in mind the loading from above
The way you billing a wall is a common wall it is not a timber frame that you are doing
I guess that depends where you're from and what you do...timber frame construction covers anything that has timber as the frame, rather than masonry.
Should of built that bigger wall in situ, would of saved the phone call to the brother in law😂 awesome building as usual! Keep it up 💪💪
Yeah you're right...I was interested to try an American method of building the walls, but frankly I wasn't worth the effort and hassle. I stuck to my normal method of doing each one individually on the soleplate
@@OfficeBoyBuilder You were right to do what you did but if you had just put two sheets of osb on instead of the whole lot it would have been a two man lift. Plus the wind would have had a place to blow through. One sheet on each side is all one needs to keep one's walls from racking. Especially on that wall as ye had plenty of access to the other side. One has to be cognicent of the weather and the number of bodies at one's disposal.
Hi. Really enjoyed the video. Similar project starting soon. Interested to know how you fixed your timber frame through your DPC and into the blockwork below without impacting the waterproofing of the DPC. Any tips would be great!
Cheers mate, glad you enjoyed it.
We laid out the DPM, built the time frame walls on top, and then fixed the soleplate down to the blockwork simply by drilling through the timber, DPM and blocks, and filling with chemical cement and bolts.
The chemical cement and bolts would most likely block any modest amount of moisture that would try to permeate the structure.
This was specified by our structural engineer (every 600mm centres) so we followed that direction. 👍
Interesting. Can you recall/recommend a chemical cement and size bolts? Much appreciated.
the crazy farmer uses wall jacks to erect the walls.
He's an absolute hero! I knew I had help, so didn't invest in one, but would definitely get one of those if I was building solo.
What was the spec/sizes of the steel over the patio door and how did you attach it to the timber to make your sandwich?
It was a 10mm plate of steel, the same width as the timber (200mm). The steel plate came pre-drilled with holes, and I used timber-locks to hold them in place, screwing them in from alternating sides. You can also use coach bolts +washers and nuts.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks so much, very helpful
I can't remember if it was Robin Clevett or stu Crompton mentioned something about putting DPC between the old and new
I follow both those guys, and they're both fantastic...I haven't heard either saying it, but if they do then it's probably good advice! Lol
I'm sure it was on a TH-cam video, but another good one for your project will be Skill Builder, they got a series on doing an extension.
Yeah I've watched that, it was very good, although all brick built which wasn't quite so applicable lol. Still an excellent channel though, with tons of helpful content and explanation
Cracking job. One question. You've used the master board on one wall only, was that because its on the property line?
Exactly right - where a wall is within 1m of the boundary line of a property, you are required to put master board on there 👍
Hi bud, just wondering what you think should I use private building control or council ? My architect suggests I use private but 1k seems a bit steep.
Thanks
Nik
It really depends on how quickly you want stuff done...I went private because I was on a tight deadline and needed to be able to contact them with a day's notice to come out and inspect things (specifically the foundations before the concrete was poured!). Council inspectors can be a lot more officious and inefficient, but are cheaper!
Hi
Great job cant wait to see it all complete...am thinking and researching about doing a small lean to wooden extension...we have an old Conservatory that we will remove and build same sized structure...am not familiar with plans ect, but do the plans specify all the different materials that must be used, or does the structural engineer give you details of what materials ect thst you must use?
Thanks
Those details all come from the structural engineer, including the make-up of the walls etc. Occasionally the architect will specify it, but it's more typical to get that from the SE
Hi, could you tell me how you fasten the framed walls onto the sole plate? I know you use threaded bar and chemicals to fasten down the sole plate. Do you do the same again with the timber frame? Thanks
The timber frame studs are just nailed into the sole plate, like you would with a normal internal stud wall...hope that answers your question, but if I've misunderstood, please let me know.
Great video. What size steel did you use sandwiched in the flitch plate? I'm building a 3m span would I need additional metal plate or just 2 x 8x3? Thanks
Honestly wouldn't want to comment on your situation mate, you're best off getting your structural engineer to tell you so that building control are happy to sign it off. For most of my flitch plates they spec'd a 10mm thick plate, that was the height of the timber. For the ridge beam of the pitched roof it was a 20mm plate....best of luck!
When you put the timber walls up are they flush with the block work,
with the 25mm battons and cement board ready for render over hanging they blocks
Yes pretty much! I left a spacer for the render board (cement board) to run down and lap over the blockwork
Just a note regarding the application of sheathing - I can see a horizontal joint in the OSB sheathing halfway up the panel....all edges of sheathing boards should be fixed for the racking resistance applicable to be justified.
I thought the flooring OSB and insulation would be down before the walls go up? Interesting video though, thanks for sharing
It really depends on how you want to do it and what time of year you're building.
Being winter, I really didn't want to seal in moisture to the building, so built the super structure and got water-tight before allowing it to air out and dry.
Hi, fantastic videos. I'm doing a timber frame rear extension on pedestals system under permitted development out to 4m ( have got the prior planning approved as its longer than three meter) total square meters is under 30m. do i need to get building control involved ?
Yes you will, because it's an extension to a residential dwelling.
Generally you don't need them for outbuildings under a certain height, and where they don't have services like a toilet/shower, which would make them a permanent structure...
Nice and informative video, thank you - Can you detail how you fix the stud work to the foundation wall please?
That's done in exactly the same way as the stringers which we're bolted to the brick wall - drill holes through the timber and blocks, and then set chemical fix and threaded bolts in place which you then tighten up 👍
Your doing well mate, but you should have put the DPM under your membrane as good practice. So if you do get water ingress it does not come into the house.
Yes that's a definite - would certainly do that next time. Thanks mate
Really helpful content for a home diy'er. How come you don't need a flitch plate over the kitchen window? Isn't that section also taking the weight of the roof structure?
Not specifically/directly...the weight of the roof is transferred to the side walls, and carried by the ridge, down through the pillar on the rear wall (which does sit on the flitch plate).
That double header above the window will just stop any loads from buckling the windows below them.
whats is the wood on the structure
It's C24 timber - structural graded wood
How do you maintain a 20mm air gap
Counter battens that are 20mm+
Is the double headed because the weight of the roof? Sorry if a silly question.
It does a couple of things - it really helps with racking strength (Vs a single header), because it allows you to overlap the butt joints. It does also provide extra bearing strength for the weight of the roof joists.
What was the u value of these walls??
In isolation, the U Value of the wall itself is around 0.14, so incredibly low. Depending on the ceiling/roof you put in top, and the glazing and floor insulation, you can achieve passivhaus standards with them.
uk sh**ty weather.. lol
what's the best way to fasten studs to top plate and mud plate? nails or screws? what size?
Traditionally you would use Nails, not screws. Main reason being is that nails have much better tensile strength, and buildings move and flex slightly over time. Nails accommodate this movement far better than screws would.
You would generally use 90mm nails for the major framing structural construction, and then 60mm nails for the rest (like putting on the OSB sheets).
Great video.
Thanks mate! Appreciate the support
What do you call the polystyrene floor that they use to cast the concrete?
I think that often they are just using standard polystyrene foam to insulate and contain the the concrete...I don't believe it is any specific product, but I may be wrong.
what fireboards are you using please on the outside?
It's sometimes labelled as Masterboard...it's only around 6mm thick
you walls are like sip panels on drugs :)
this is a great way to build, having watch quite a few of your videos now I'm all fired up to replace the 1990s dreadful consecratory that came with the house with this construction method to provide an all year round usable space.
Lol the building inspector was round a few weeks ago and he said it was the most insulated building he's ever inspected, and had a better U value than the government's plans for new builds in 2040. The roof construction is even more over the top! 🤣🤣👌
@@OfficeBoyBuilder crumbs - that’s awesome. well done.
Maybe a strange question but how is the sheathing attached nails or screws?
I used a nail gun to fix it in with 63mm ring shank nails.
Casio F-91W.....my choice watch also....good taste
Thanks!
Great workmanship and precision.. I’m thinking of a similar build to replace our 5metre x 3 metre conservatory , would a flat roof with roof lantern work with your system and bifolds 3 metre long into garden?
Yes roof lanterns work with our build system, so that shouldn't be an issue (always check with a structural engineer though!).
Our sliding doors could have been bifolds instead, so no reason why that can't be incorporated.
Thanks for that … does the 6x2 wall stud need to be tantalised? 👍
Yes, you'd want C24 timber, as exterior grade 👍
great vid, what size bolts did you use for the chem fix for the sole plate ?
Cheers. Used M14 bolts I think...! Pretty chunky buggers, and long too.
good to see a bit detail on the flitch beam ....
Great video. Where do you get the time to do this. Does the Office boy builder ever go to the office.😀
Hahaha! It's been pretty manic mate, I won't lie. I've been building each day until 4-4:30, and then logging in to work until 9:30, and then editing videos after that...I'm a contractor at the moment, so flexibility is a bonus, but I'm pretty wiped out right now 😴🤣
Excellent content again and I can tell you've planned this well. Good luck now whittling down your stack of PIR. Are you putting ufh in the floor? I enjoy laying bricks but can see the numerous advantages of timber frame too, not least the fast pace of establishing the build. Have a restful break!👍
Thanks mate. Yeah I'm basically sticking that PIR everywhere. Especially in between the floor joists beneath the underfloor heating.
The crazy framer is nuts
Great Video, we was planning our extension to be brick built, but I am definitely starting to think timber might be a better option.
It really depends what you're after mate, but when I did my research, it came out that timber was (marginally) cheaper, far better insulated and faster to build with...I'm a huge fan, and can't fathom why more people in the UK don't. In the US and Canada that's pretty much all they build with, and they have far more dramatic weather than we do.
Timber framed buildings are definitely the way to go if built correctly they will all be done this way in the future
nice, timber framing
Nice work. Good attention to detail.
Great job! I would say you need to look at the junctions of the timber frames with the existing masonry walls - in traditional build you would need to cut the wall the break the cavity and insert a vertical DPC. This ensures no horizontal tracking of moisture which could happen with high winds or capillary action. Good luck with the build well done.
Yes mate, great observation and exactly what I was planning to do, until I found that the walls are solid, with no cavity! Saved me a lot of hassle lol!
What would you have to do with a timber frame to prevent the horizontal tracking of moisture. I am planning on building a single story extension with a similar timber frame design but havent heard of this. Thanks.
Just a quick question, what horizontal tracking of moisture? Do you mean through the walls, or across the DPM at the bottom?
@@OfficeBoyBuilder sorry I have only just seen this. I mean through the walls. I was planning on doing the same as you did with just putting DPM between timber and brick wall but mine are cavity walls could this be a problem? Thanks
How and what type of foundation did you do please?
On the single storey rear we did a beam and pad system, and then on the two storey side we used a standard trench fill 👍
@@OfficeBoyBuilder i am looking at building a wooden frame extension like what you have done and was interested i the type of foundation you did. I like the idea of a pad and beam. What sort of depth was the pad foundation? I know it differs on ground condition but for your job?
Ours was 1m depth specified, we ended up going down 1.2 just in case, but it was clean and would have been fine down at 1.
It's a great system, if you contact iPlans they have pre-approved schemes of work using this system with the building control team that they use, so it's very well understood.
How do you work out how much timber you need and why 3.6 m lengths
I figured out how much timber was needed by calculating the distance between each timber (400 centres) and dividing that into the total width of the space, and then adding on the timbers required for the perimeter. Same deal for the walls, accounting for the studs as well as the sole plate and double header plates.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder cheers mate and also what size timber for the roof
No worries! The floors and roof were all specified at 8x3" and the walls are 6x2". Every structural engineer is different, but by having 8x3's you get a ton of strength, and can also fill it with a lot of insulation!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder yeah a think mine has had me he was trying to get me out of building timber frame and the size of wood to be used is 9x3 for the roof but he said use 9x2 because its abit cheaper a dont think he delt with timber frames befor
Not sure if you want a second opinion, but iPlans are the people I used and spoke to. Absolutely fantastic company and love working with Timber Frame, so will fully understand your requirements and give good guidance etc. Let them know Tom from Office Boy Builder recommended you, they'll see you right.
Really decent video, I’ve been watching a lot of your content recently as I’m doing a dormer loft conversion, so thanks for the content! For the timber frame build, I noticed you said it carries much better insulating values in comparison to brick and mortar. With putting PIR between the studs do you suffer with much thermal bridging? Do you plan on insulating on the inside over the studs as well?
My concern with a timber frame is from something which often happens in a loft conversion is that it’s hard to keep cool in summer. Have you found much info on this with your architect/designer?
Sorry to kill you with q’s, thanks again mate. Smashing work!
Cheers mate, glad you're enjoying it all!
Thermal bridging can occur, but it's relatively easy to overcome with a bit of 20 or 50mm PIR over the top of the studs, or thermally backed plasterboard (or both!). I haven't had to experience a hot summer yet with a timber frame build, but we've deliberately put in tons of windows and doors to ventilate!
Thermal bridging is minimal in timber as it's a naturally warm material. No so with concrete and steel, 🔨 🇮🇪
hi.just want to ask ..are you need to do CDM ?
Not sure what that is mate...what does CDM stand for?
@@OfficeBoyBuilder www.hse.gov.uk/construction/cdm/2015/index.htm
I'm working on my own home, so health and safety isn't being regulated/officiated by anyone...obviously I'm being as safe as I can and not taking any excessive risks, but equally I'm not letting things stop me/slow me down from working!
Cdm 2015 does not apply to domestic and particularly for diy.
What size timber for the stud wall
External walls are 6x2's and internal studs and typically 4x2's although in a lot of instances I've been using it 6x2's for my internal studs because it allows better insulation.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder ive been told to use 47x100 for my extension
Yeah that's a standard 4x2 timber...I'm guessing it's single storey? I would strongly consider 6x2 (150x47), not least for the improved heat and sound insulation. They're hardly more expensive compared with 4x2's but will allow a lot more strength and insulation.
That being said, a lot of loft conversions are built in 4x2 (100x47mm) so it isn't a problem structural (so long as it's single storey).
Yeah single story 4.8m by 7.5 m kitchen and washroom
Hello, thank you for your detailed video, we are looking at doing timber frame rear kitchen extension. We have had all plans approved. Do you do work in Sheffield ?or if you have anyone you can recommend that will be much appreciated. Thank you
Sorry but I'm based in South East London, so my network doesn't stretch as far as your part of the country. Best of luck with it all!