Great show as usual, most times when I get an 'I can't be bothered to go out with the camera' moment, your show reminds me how much I enjoy doing it, so thanks for the occasional kick up the rear and the fantastic production and imagery which inspires me to try and get better.
Thanks Kevin. That’s music to our ears, as our main objective is to enthuse and inspire. If people learn and get entertained along the way then that’s a bonus. Thanks for watching.
Great way to prove you don't need expensive equipment by sending Marcus out with a 40 year old camera and taking stunning shots. Best part of the programme by far. Another good show, thanks.
This has got to be the best Photography channel anywhere. So much variety with both Digital and analogue and with lots of detail and how too. Keep up the good work guys and Gal!
Part of my job takes me to a building which houses historical photographs of that local area, people clear out their grandparents house and donate old school photos, or photos of the old high street etc. The quality of those old film pictures blows me away, some incredible images, so I really enjoyed Marcus’s film feature. I upgraded my 2010 7D this year to an R6, the in body image stabilisation has allowed me to hand hold my 500/4, something I could never do before. Last weekend I took the kids out for a walk to watch the local deer rutting, Red and Fallow Stags with impressive antlers ran around us and with just my Black Rapid strap it was easy to follow them as they chased each other around. Another great episode - could anyone ID Nicks red F Stop bag, I’m due a bag upgrade 😁
Ultra Panavision 70, where you can fully immerse yourself in the glory of film, 65mm that is. Movies like, Ben Hur, Lawrence of Arabia, Cleopatra,2001 A space Odyssey and Hateful eight. There is something about the film. Great show folks and great to see the love of film photography.
As always, great professional presentation and content. I've learned so much from this channel, the best photograhy channel on TH-cam! Thank you. (Viewing from Sydney Australia)
I started doing photography before image stabilization was available. So, using a tripod is second nature to me. I got tired of small travel tripods not being stable enough and went back to using a full size tripod. But, I think I've found a cheap simple way to make smaller tripods more stable. Just loop one end of a long strap around the top of the tripod, let the strap hang on the ground, then step on the strap at a point causing tension on the tripod. The tripod will not move while you are standing on the strap. I use a yoga strap which come in various lengths.
Hi Ruth and team hope your all well thank you for another great show and pleased you will be at NEC so I hope to see you there so I can pop along and say hi, very best wishes!
Another excellent episode thank you all. Marcus brought back some good memories with his first camera. My first serious camera was a Minolta X-370 with 2 lenses, the basic Minolta 50mm and I had a generic 70-210mm lens and with the doubler it was a fantastic set up. That set up along with a John Hedgcoe book, and I could write a book about the fun and learning journey I took with that set up. Alas I sold it, and do now regret that. I did manage to replace the John Hedgecoe book a few years back with a copy in good nick I found on line.
I find when hand-holding pulling my elbows in close to my body helps, as well as putting my left (len-supporting) hand as far out on the lens as possible for the best leverage and stability. Great video.
Cracking episode guys, as per usual. Cinestill 800T is another film definitely worth a try, great at night especially with buildings with red lights, you get a great glow around them, very creative film. #longlivefilm !!
Borrowed a camera that claims to have the best IS in the world to try hand held landscape shots then compared them to the tripod shots - tripod every time for me. Good for fast action though. Great show again by you guys - thank you all. Like a tripod Harry needs some spikes!
Another great video! I know for sure that I need to upgrade my camera, because I need a better high ISO quality for my wildlife photography. Thanks for all of your work!
Awesome show as usual! Hand holding a long lens sometimes has its place, however I find using a tripod and VR with a long lens works even better. Also, no new camera stuff for me, just going to enjoy and learn with what I have. Cheers!
Great segment on traditional film in old style cameras. As an ex-Kodak Lab man myself, I installed the worlds last wholesale photofinishing laboratory. Can I just reinforce the warning about rem jet. Designed as an antihalation layer to absorb light which has passed through the film avoiding halos around point sources & highlights, DO NOT send these films through to your local lab e.g. Snappy Snaps, Boots, Walgreens, etc. for this kind of lab, this type of film can cause a hell of a mess with black rem jet all over other peoples films. Otherwise, have fun, this is a great way to use film.
With attention to Flicfilm. Awright. I stick to the well-known and proven FP4 and HP5. Ilford has by no means failed me since I started photography, around 1980. Today I use my wonderful Nikon F3/T, mostly in BW, still loaded with Ilford. FP4 will always be my favorite.
Thanks M, but there’s no harm in trying new things every now and again. There are b&w films out there which will offer something very different to FP4 and HP5. Those films are great but it’s good to hand a little variety in your life. Thanks for watching.
Here is a factor you left out of your shutter speed discussion. 1 over the focal length is a good starting point, BUT not when your subject is moving! If you are shooting a moving subject (car, airplane, etc) then 4 over the focal length is a better place to start, with long lenses especially! Also, many have commented that turning off the IS when on a tripod is the proper choice, but again, it depends. If you have your rig on a tripod and it is windy out, it may be better to leave it on. The wind wrecks havoc to cameras on a tripod more than we think, Best advice there is shoot exposure(s) with it on, and then again with it off. Then check in post.
You are correct about the IS being useful when on a tripod in windy conditions Gordon. You comment about a moving subject depends how fast it is moving across the sensor (not the speed it is actually moving). A distant plane can be travelling at 500mph but moving across the sensor very slowly, so it totally depends on the situation. This feature wasn't about capturing moving subjects though, it was about handhold a lens instead of using a tripod. Obviosuly you wouldn't use a tripod for a moving subject. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment. All the best.
Harry channeling his inner Chariots of Fire in this weeks episode 🤣 (although he might be too young to know that film, I'm sure Marcus can educate him!)
Hi Steven. Yes, in normal situations you would turn off IS when using a tripod but it can still be beneficial when working in windy conditions. Thanks for watching.
I have been a wildlife photographer for around 40 years, so well before such things as IS. For me, holding a camera correctly is critical because a tripod often does not lend itself to the dynamic situation of tracking animals so technique is really critical. A lot of people are coming into photography from the cellphone platform. I often see them holding the camera like a phone - that is, held away from the body, looking through the rear LCD. That might work for the shorter focal length lenses of phones and some cameras, but the longer the focal length the greater the leverage on the body and the harder it is to control the heavier telephoto lenses. It can take some persuading to get someone to hold the camera close the body, hand under the lens, eye to the viewfinder and arms tucked tightly into the body. I hold my own arms much tighter to my chest than your example - I have the upper arm right in contact with my chest. The other thing is breathing. Breathing out before taking the shot means the torso is much less likely to move. I agree that better gear, in itself, will not make one a better photographer. Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) is a characteristic I often see when people are highly demanding of features of cameras under the belief that the lack of technology is suppressing their own latent genius. Better gear will help a good photographer in specific instances: telephoto lenses for wildlife to get tighter shots of subjects without getting too close, good macro lenses, fast lenses for portraiture. Yet, I have taken images that I am proud of with relatively humble equipment. From time to time, I still shoot with camera gear from 2000 - to demonstrate that good photography is more about technique than the tech. Much depends on what one is going to produce - the investment to produce extremely large, high resolution Fine Art images is going to be greater than for posting on line, in social media, or for digital display.
Great Show as usual! When shooting with a Tripod, you switch IS off. When Hand hold, you switch it on. Should it keep it on or off when leaning on a wall? I assume it should be on, when not absolutetly still on a Tripod.
You are correct Stefan - always use IS when handholding, even if you are leaning on a wall etc. Sometimes it can be useful to use IS when on a tripod if it is windy and the camera is still moving. But generally if the camera is dead still, the turn off IS in case it moves the still image - unlikely but possible.
Thanks for another great episode 😀 One thing was forgotten in the “when to use a tripod” section: Resolution matters. I can much easier handhold my 16 mpx Fuji X-T1 and get sharp images than I can with my Canon 5DSR.
Only if you look at both at 100%. If you view them both at the same dimensions then the 5Dsr will show less motion blur due to the smaller magnification. Hope that makes sense.
Great show as always...quick question...when using a tripod is it correct to switch the image stabilisation to the off position and if so does this apply if using a monopod or beanbag as well.thank you.
Hi Alan. As long as the camera is perfectly steady (ie - no wind or vibration), then it is better to turn off IS as this can inadvertently introduce unwanted movement. You definitely want to have IS enabled when using a monopod or a beanbag though. Thanks for watching.
So that's where he was going wrong! The truth is that there is no physical manual for the R5, so we had to use an older one. Well done for spotting it. There's no prize though!
Now being from the States I know we speak the same sometimes. Marcus states that the film is ISO. ISO is a term used for digital and film is ASA. He has done this in the past also. I am not sure if that is just a mistake or the Euro way of rating film from back in the day. But as always "Still love the show."
Hi Richard. ASA became ISO in 1974, long before digital was even a twinkle in Steven Sasson’s eye. Film has been marked as ISO ever since, but older films (maybe up until the 1990s) were also marked with an ASA/DIN rating. There is no separation between film and digital when it comes to ISO and ASA. It’s just that digital wasn’t around in the ASA days so has only ever been ISO. Hope that clears it up. (Marcus)
ISO replaced ASA back in the 70’s or 80’s This article says Kodak started putting it on film boxes in 1980. By Albert Moldvay; Copyright (c) 1980 and Los Angeles Times. February 15, 1980 Q. I've heard that Eastman is coming out with a new film speed marking called ISO. What about it? A. ISO, which will be a film-speed designation printed on Kodak films in the next few months, stands for International Standards Organization. It will eventually replace ASA N American Standards Association) markings. i The ISO speeds are the same as the ASA and for a while both ASA and ISO markings will be carried on the film boxes. By Albert Moldvay; Copyright (c) 1980 and Los Angeles Times. February 15, 1980 Q. I've heard that Eastman is coming out with a new film speed marking called ISO. What about it? A. ISO, which will be a film-speed designation printed on Kodak films in the next few months, stands for International Standards Organization. It will eventually replace ASA N American Standards Association) markings. i The ISO speeds are the same as the ASA and for a while both ASA and ISO markings will be carried on the film boxes.
@@PhotographyOnline Thanks I always saw ASA. Now do you ever think we would ever see ISO of 25 like there was in film. Granted I use the Bastard Child of cameras ( Pentax ). I am not up to date with the other brands. I know some have gone down to 50 ISO. Thanks Marcus .
Min 4:31 The IBIS option to turn on and off does not appear in the menu for most modes (Fv, P, Tv, M, B). I'm sayin this as it took me a bit of time to figure out and save other the time/thinking there maybe smt wrong with their camera.
Another great show, thanks. At the end of the show, the lady is speaking and all the time the background is moving. How do you do this. Are you all on a slow moving raft. Best show on air, you talk sence to us. Thank you.
Experience, practice and learning together with good advice will make you a better photographer. Better equipment should improve the results of your limitations.
One question I still wrestle with: does it ever make sense to use IS on a tripod? I think the question is complex. Older cameras (think Canon 5d ii and 5d iii) lacked IBIS, but the EF lenses of the day had IS. However, there was advice floating around among photographers of those days saying you shouldn't turn IS on for a lens that was mounted on a tripod. The explanation was that the electronics in the lens were designed solely for the sort of vibration that arises from hand-holding the camera, and that when IS attempted to compensate for vibration coming up the legs of the tripod, it could actually make matters worse. Certainly the properties of those two types of vibration are very different: tripod vibration is probably one or several orders of magnitude faster than that from hand-holding. However, now that IS design is about ten years further down the road, and IBIS is added to the mix, I strongly suspect things are different today. IBIS in particular, which moves the sensor, is moving far less mass than the IS in a lens, which has to move entire optical elements. So, I'd say that today, turning on IBIS (at least) might help a shot on a tripod that's subject to wind, or which is set up on a raised boardwalk in a preserve or a national park. Comments?
For the Mavic 3 and run the DJI FLY App, which tablet does you recommend, taking into account the bright screen so we can fly in the sun and others. Thank you.
Hi Rahul. There's nothing wrong with a crop sensor camera, but depending on what kind of photography you want to do, then it may (or may not) limit you. For example, if you want to do portraits and get super shallow DOF and nice creamy bokeh, then the larger the sensor, the easier this is. Also if you want to shoot super wide for achitecture etc, then a crop sensor will limit your lens choice far more than FF. But if none of these are an issue, then don't worry about changing your camera, as it may not make much difference. Hope this helps and good luck.
One tip: with long exposures, you need to turn off the IS when shooting with a tripod. Otherwise the photos lose their sharpness. Because the IS system is still trying to stabilize the image and it causes the matrix micro-vibrations.
Thanks Darius. We are aware of this but this feature was not about doing long exposures on a tripod, so we didn't want to confuse the message. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment.
@@clivewoolley4492 From my experience: when you shooting from a tripod with shutter speeds from 1 second or longer, you have to turn off all the stabilization systems (body and lens). Otherwise, stabilization will worsen the sharpness of the photo.
Okay, I don't want to be "that guy", but let's have fun. At 21.42 Markus was taking a photo on his SLR with a lens cap on! How does that work?. And at 28.30 did you notice the beautiful light moving on the hill behind Ruth? (Maybe I have had too much coffee today). Great show. Thanks for all you do.
Hi Jay. You may have had too much coffee because the lens cap is clearly in my hand at 21:42. If you look again, I take it off when it is obscured and when it comes back into view, the lens cap is on my left hand under the camera. It's my slight of hand!
We didn't use a bean bag at any point, so there wasn't one shown in the video. This was not a featue about all the options to steady a lens - it was a feature to look at the limitations which exist when handholding a lens. Hope that makes sense.
@@PhotographyOnline Makes sense! It would have been outwith the parameters of the item. But perhaps the humble beanbag deserves a short section to itself? Lighter & easier to carry than a tripod; steadier than hand-held alone. And obviously used by the team - viz. 17:15 - 17:20... :-) Always enjoy the videos, not least for the backgrounds - many years ago I had the privilege of living on Skye for a year or so.
Absolutely better gear lets you capture certain shots that lesser equipment couldn't so easily. Does that make you a better photographer? Debatable, does it get you more keepers? Yes. The animal eye detect AF of my A7IV and high quality constant aperture zooms have given me abilities I didn't have previously. The ability to do the legwork and then just point and shoot is amazing. If you're doing architecture, landscapes etc and taking your time. The new fancy systems only really matter for sharpness and megapixels. Which for many, won't make a difference as most lenses are sharp at F8.
Great show as ever but was that a wedding couple photobombing Ruth at the start? And, serious question, can you please recommend a black and white film processing lab in Scotland?
It’s so easy (and more fun) to process your own photos at home. All you need are a few basic things and you’re good to go. There will probably be a lab somewhere that does b&w but most people will develop their own film. Although.not in Scotland, try Peak Imaging.
I've arthritis and my photos have really improved since i started using my kingjoy tripod more or less all the time...i suppose its horses for courses.
Hi Julian. It makes no difference what size the sensor is as the reciprocal rule is focal length dependent. For exampole, if using a 50mm lens on a MFT camera, you would get exactly the same amount of camera movement as you would on a FF camera or a medium format one. It's a myth that different sensor sizes provide different magnifications for the same focal length. All that is happening is that the smaller sensor sizes are cropping the image, but the actual reproduction image is exactly the same. We did a feature all about this on our "Sensor Sizes Explained" show last year. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@PhotographyOnline I hear what you're saying, but surely if you had say a 1 degree amount of shake, then on a small sensor (with the same number of pixels as the full frame) that 1 degree would cover more pixels than on the full frame. If it's then enlarged to the same size there would be more blur (although the image would be zoomed/cropped in more).
In your example you are correct, but pixel density doesn't need to come into the equation. If you have a 50mm lens on any camera, then a 1 degree movement would cause the image to move exactly the same amount on the sensor. Obviously, the smaller the sensor, the greater the enlargement needed to get the image to a givem size, so a smaller sensor would show up any movement more than a bigger sensor - assuming the reproduction ratio was to the same size. This is irrespective of pixel density. Hope that makes sense. (Marcus)
It's a night and day difference on image quality if I put my Canon Rebel T6 on a tripod. I try to use it as much as possible until I can afford a better body.
Completely ignoring the existence of CineStill which is friendlier to the end user having had the Remjet layer already removed allowing it to be processed in C41. I fully expected that part of the show to be sponsored by Flic Film, who I’ve never heard of.
So you’ve never heard of Flicfilm but now you have - perfect. Proves that us featuring new brands helps them to gain awareness. The feature wasn’t sponsored. Cinestill is more expensive than FlicFilm, so we chose to feature the cheaper option.
I've always found a tripod extremely handy. trying to whack someone with a GFX100 or similar sized camera while handheld is simply impossible. With it on a tripod, a good purchase can be found and maximum damage done to any would-be assailant. And not one of these light carbon jobbies either - they can snap on impact. A heavy-duty one ensures maximum damage. I am joking of course. Any camera will do...
So, you're trying to tell me that holding the camera vertically, with the shutter at the top and and your elbow winging out over your head is more stable than having it at the bottom so both elbows are tucked in to your body? Go on and pull the other one.
Hi Pete. Yes. Cameras have a grip on them and are designed to be held that way. If you hold it upside down, not only do you look like a noob, but you will sacrifice stability. Even your spine will end up curved rather than straight, making composition more difficult. Try it and you will see.
Once again it,s the Canon show. Olympus has class leading IBIS, you don,t mention that. With a tele len,s no system would componsate, I can get hand held shot,s at 4/5 sec with a say 20/45 mm len,s. Please do a feature on an unique Olympus feature, "Live Composite", genius level application.
Hi Steve. Send us an Olympus and we’ll do it. We only use Canon because we have them as our own cameras. The feature was about technique - irrespective of camera. Not once did we mention Canon, but we have to use a camera to demonstrate the principle. The content would have been exactly the same whether we had used an Olympus, Nikon, Fuji or Sony.
Fact, Tom Cruise will only work on a movie shot on film and it's in the contract. And the IMAX film cameras use a film similar to 120 medium format which can be found for sale, cut and rolled for medium format cameras.
I have added new gear to compensate for lack of technic and training. Now I realize how poor my photos are and I have almost lost interest in photo now.
There’s an east fix to your problem Thor - practice and gain more experience. As Harry said, spending money on a workshop or on books would be more beneficial than buying more gear.
@@PhotographyOnline I,would like to make more portraites and model photo but I have no freinds or girlfriends who want to model for me and now I have used so much on gear I have no money to spend on prof models. And there are no workshops in the town I live in and I am not a literate person, who can just learn from something I read in a book. It might be better to sell my gear before it gets too old and worthless.
I can't remember the context where we said that Steve, but I guess it depends if you are thinking about the actual exp time or just the scale of the options.
Absolutely not..............Henri Cartier Bresson with his M3 could always take better photographs than someone today with all it's new technologically and equipment.
Great show as usual, most times when I get an 'I can't be bothered to go out with the camera' moment, your show reminds me how much I enjoy doing it, so thanks for the occasional kick up the rear and the fantastic production and imagery which inspires me to try and get better.
Thanks Kevin. That’s music to our ears, as our main objective is to enthuse and inspire. If people learn and get entertained along the way then that’s a bonus. Thanks for watching.
Best channel on TH-cam
Straight to the point with no rubbish advice.
Well done.
Thanks Sniper. More to come!
Great way to prove you don't need expensive equipment by sending Marcus out with a 40 year old camera and taking stunning shots. Best part of the programme by far.
Another good show, thanks.
Thanks for watching Andy. All the best.
Such a great Channel 📷 👏
This has got to be the best Photography channel anywhere. So much variety with both Digital and analogue and with lots of detail and how too. Keep up the good work guys and Gal!
Thanks for the endorsement David. All the best.
Amazing show as always! Thanks!
Cheers Peter.
I just wanted to say hello to the team, especially Ruth who is such a bonnie lass! Love the show guys!
Thanks very much Gordon. All the best.
Yet another great show and as informative as usual. Well done folks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Part of my job takes me to a building which houses historical photographs of that local area, people clear out their grandparents house and donate old school photos, or photos of the old high street etc. The quality of those old film pictures blows me away, some incredible images, so I really enjoyed Marcus’s film feature.
I upgraded my 2010 7D this year to an R6, the in body image stabilisation has allowed me to hand hold my 500/4, something I could never do before. Last weekend I took the kids out for a walk to watch the local deer rutting, Red and Fallow Stags with impressive antlers ran around us and with just my Black Rapid strap it was easy to follow them as they chased each other around.
Another great episode - could anyone ID Nicks red F Stop bag, I’m due a bag upgrade 😁
As always a great episode congrats. From Mex
Thank you very much!
Lovely B&W photography. There is a magic in those films that is inexplicable.
Agreed!
Ultra Panavision 70, where you can fully immerse yourself in the glory of film, 65mm that is. Movies like, Ben Hur, Lawrence of Arabia, Cleopatra,2001 A space Odyssey and Hateful eight. There is something about the film. Great show folks and great to see the love of film photography.
Thanks for watching.
As always, great professional presentation and content. I've learned so much from this channel, the best photograhy channel on TH-cam! Thank you. (Viewing from Sydney Australia)
Thanks very much James. Hopefully the learning is only just starting. More to come.
Awesome show as usual!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great show guys. Marcus, I love your photos on St. Kilda. Even though I'm now a digital guy, those cine films have a very appealing look to them.
Yeah, there's somethign about film which can't be replicated with digital, no matter how hard you try.
I started doing photography before image stabilization was available. So, using a tripod is second nature to me. I got tired of small travel tripods not being stable enough and went back to using a full size tripod. But, I think I've found a cheap simple way to make smaller tripods more stable. Just loop one end of a long strap around the top of the tripod, let the strap hang on the ground, then step on the strap at a point causing tension on the tripod. The tripod will not move while you are standing on the strap. I use a yoga strap which come in various lengths.
It's very close to an idea we have for a stabiliser. Thanks for watching. All the best
Love these episodes! This was yet another very good one. Thanks for that!
Thanks Markus
Fantastic production!
Thanks!
Love the show. Have to leave early for church. Can't wait to finish! Great job!
Thanks Christa.
Hi Ruth and team hope your all well thank you for another great show and pleased you will be at NEC so I hope to see you there so I can pop along and say hi, very best wishes!
Thanks Mark. Hope to see you soon.
Another excellent episode thank you all. Marcus brought back some good memories with his first camera. My first serious camera was a Minolta X-370 with 2 lenses, the basic Minolta 50mm and I had a generic 70-210mm lens and with the doubler it was a fantastic set up. That set up along with a John Hedgcoe book, and I could write a book about the fun and learning journey I took with that set up. Alas I sold it, and do now regret that. I did manage to replace the John Hedgecoe book a few years back with a copy in good nick I found on line.
You should buy a new X-370 too. Wouldn’t cost you much but would take you back. Thanks for watching.
@21:41 framing-up w lens cap on...doah! :P Great episode as per, thanks to you all.
Lens cap is not on - it’s in his hand! Look again.
Great content...well done! Don't want to wait for the next.
Coming soon!
I find when hand-holding pulling my elbows in close to my body helps, as well as putting my left (len-supporting) hand as far out on the lens as possible for the best leverage and stability. Great video.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks guys, another outstanding episode 👏
Glad you enjoyed it
Cracking episode guys, as per usual. Cinestill 800T is another film definitely worth a try, great at night especially with buildings with red lights, you get a great glow around them, very creative film. #longlivefilm !!
Great suggestion!
Always brilliant
Borrowed a camera that claims to have the best IS in the world to try hand held landscape shots then compared them to the tripod shots - tripod every time for me. Good for fast action though. Great show again by you guys - thank you all. Like a tripod Harry needs some spikes!
Well said!
Another great video! I know for sure that I need to upgrade my camera, because I need a better high ISO quality for my wildlife photography. Thanks for all of your work!
Cheers Jon. Thanks for watching
Great show. Marcus makes me laugh out loud with his antics. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Glad to finally find someone who thinks he’s funny! Thanks for watching
@@PhotographyOnline 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Thank you for your ANALOGUE AFFAIRS Section 👍
Film and Printing is still magical for me.
Glad you enjoy it!
Thank you for another AWESOME SHOW guys. Loved every bit of it ❤️❤️
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome show as usual! Hand holding a long lens sometimes has its place, however I find using a tripod and VR with a long lens works even better. Also, no new camera stuff for me, just going to enjoy and learn with what I have. Cheers!
Thanks for the info!
Another great show!👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Great segment on traditional film in old style cameras. As an ex-Kodak Lab man myself, I installed the worlds last wholesale photofinishing laboratory. Can I just reinforce the warning about rem jet. Designed as an antihalation layer to absorb light which has passed through the film avoiding halos around point sources & highlights, DO NOT send these films through to your local lab e.g. Snappy Snaps, Boots, Walgreens, etc. for this kind of lab, this type of film can cause a hell of a mess with black rem jet all over other peoples films. Otherwise, have fun, this is a great way to use film.
With attention to Flicfilm. Awright. I stick to the well-known and proven FP4 and HP5. Ilford has by no means failed me since I started photography, around 1980. Today I use my wonderful Nikon F3/T, mostly in BW, still loaded with Ilford. FP4 will always be my favorite.
Thanks M, but there’s no harm in trying new things every now and again. There are b&w films out there which will offer something very different to FP4 and HP5. Those films are great but it’s good to hand a little variety in your life. Thanks for watching.
Here is a factor you left out of your shutter speed discussion. 1 over the focal length is a good starting point, BUT not when your subject is moving! If you are shooting a moving subject (car, airplane, etc) then 4 over the focal length is a better place to start, with long lenses especially! Also, many have commented that turning off the IS when on a tripod is the proper choice, but again, it depends. If you have your rig on a tripod and it is windy out, it may be better to leave it on. The wind wrecks havoc to cameras on a tripod more than we think, Best advice there is shoot exposure(s) with it on, and then again with it off. Then check in post.
You are correct about the IS being useful when on a tripod in windy conditions Gordon. You comment about a moving subject depends how fast it is moving across the sensor (not the speed it is actually moving). A distant plane can be travelling at 500mph but moving across the sensor very slowly, so it totally depends on the situation. This feature wasn't about capturing moving subjects though, it was about handhold a lens instead of using a tripod. Obviosuly you wouldn't use a tripod for a moving subject. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment. All the best.
Harry channeling his inner Chariots of Fire in this weeks episode 🤣 (although he might be too young to know that film, I'm sure Marcus can educate him!)
Another great show. Would you normally turn off if using a tripod and in particular if manually focusing, thanks.
Hi Steven. Yes, in normal situations you would turn off IS when using a tripod but it can still be beneficial when working in windy conditions. Thanks for watching.
St. Kilda, gosh that's gorgeous. When we (finally) get back to Scotland, I'd love to visit. Is it a long swim?
I have been a wildlife photographer for around 40 years, so well before such things as IS. For me, holding a camera correctly is critical because a tripod often does not lend itself to the dynamic situation of tracking animals so technique is really critical. A lot of people are coming into photography from the cellphone platform. I often see them holding the camera like a phone - that is, held away from the body, looking through the rear LCD. That might work for the shorter focal length lenses of phones and some cameras, but the longer the focal length the greater the leverage on the body and the harder it is to control the heavier telephoto lenses. It can take some persuading to get someone to hold the camera close the body, hand under the lens, eye to the viewfinder and arms tucked tightly into the body. I hold my own arms much tighter to my chest than your example - I have the upper arm right in contact with my chest. The other thing is breathing. Breathing out before taking the shot means the torso is much less likely to move.
I agree that better gear, in itself, will not make one a better photographer. Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) is a characteristic I often see when people are highly demanding of features of cameras under the belief that the lack of technology is suppressing their own latent genius. Better gear will help a good photographer in specific instances: telephoto lenses for wildlife to get tighter shots of subjects without getting too close, good macro lenses, fast lenses for portraiture. Yet, I have taken images that I am proud of with relatively humble equipment. From time to time, I still shoot with camera gear from 2000 - to demonstrate that good photography is more about technique than the tech. Much depends on what one is going to produce - the investment to produce extremely large, high resolution Fine Art images is going to be greater than for posting on line, in social media, or for digital display.
Thanks for your input Trevor. Much appreciated. All the best.
Great, will share ;)
Thanks guys for another really informative show - Bolt has nothing on H!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great Show as usual! When shooting with a Tripod, you switch IS off. When Hand hold, you switch it on. Should it keep it on or off when leaning on a wall? I assume it should be on, when not absolutetly still on a Tripod.
You are correct Stefan - always use IS when handholding, even if you are leaning on a wall etc. Sometimes it can be useful to use IS when on a tripod if it is windy and the camera is still moving. But generally if the camera is dead still, the turn off IS in case it moves the still image - unlikely but possible.
Thanks for another great episode 😀 One thing was forgotten in the “when to use a tripod” section: Resolution matters. I can much easier handhold my 16 mpx Fuji X-T1 and get sharp images than I can with my Canon 5DSR.
Only if you look at both at 100%. If you view them both at the same dimensions then the 5Dsr will show less motion blur due to the smaller magnification. Hope that makes sense.
Great show as always...quick question...when using a tripod is it correct to switch the image stabilisation to the off position and if so does this apply if using a monopod or beanbag as well.thank you.
Hi Alan. As long as the camera is perfectly steady (ie - no wind or vibration), then it is better to turn off IS as this can inadvertently introduce unwanted movement. You definitely want to have IS enabled when using a monopod or a beanbag though. Thanks for watching.
Great show team, as always! It would help though to have the correct manual for the new camera (R5 with 5DSr manual😀)…
So that's where he was going wrong! The truth is that there is no physical manual for the R5, so we had to use an older one. Well done for spotting it. There's no prize though!
Now being from the States I know we speak the same sometimes. Marcus states that the film is ISO. ISO is a term used for digital and film is ASA. He has done this in the past also. I am not sure if that is just a mistake or the Euro way of rating film from back in the day. But as always "Still love the show."
Hi Richard. ASA became ISO in 1974, long before digital was even a twinkle in Steven Sasson’s eye. Film has been marked as ISO ever since, but older films (maybe up until the 1990s) were also marked with an ASA/DIN rating. There is no separation between film and digital when it comes to ISO and ASA. It’s just that digital wasn’t around in the ASA days so has only ever been ISO. Hope that clears it up. (Marcus)
ISO replaced ASA back in the 70’s or 80’s This article says Kodak started putting it on film boxes in 1980. By Albert Moldvay; Copyright (c) 1980 and
Los Angeles Times.
February 15, 1980
Q. I've heard that Eastman is coming out with a new film speed marking called ISO. What about it? A. ISO, which will be a film-speed designation printed on Kodak films in the next few months, stands for International Standards Organization. It will eventually replace ASA N American Standards Association) markings. i
The ISO speeds are the same as the ASA and for a while both ASA and ISO markings will be carried on the film boxes. By Albert Moldvay; Copyright (c) 1980 and
Los Angeles Times.
February 15, 1980
Q. I've heard that Eastman is coming out with a new film speed marking called ISO. What about it? A. ISO, which will be a film-speed designation printed on Kodak films in the next few months, stands for International Standards Organization. It will eventually replace ASA N American Standards Association) markings. i
The ISO speeds are the same as the ASA and for a while both ASA and ISO markings will be carried on the film boxes.
@@PhotographyOnline Thanks I always saw ASA. Now do you ever think we would ever see ISO of 25 like there was in film. Granted I use the Bastard Child of cameras ( Pentax ). I am not up to date with the other brands. I know some have gone down to 50 ISO. Thanks Marcus .
Min 4:31 The IBIS option to turn on and off does not appear in the menu for most modes (Fv, P, Tv, M, B). I'm sayin this as it took me a bit of time to figure out and save other the time/thinking there maybe smt wrong with their camera.
You don’t mention which camera you have and which lens you were using?
@@PhotographyOnline neither do you :-) canon R5 with RF 24-70 f/2.8
Another great show, thanks. At the end of the show, the lady is speaking and all the time the background is moving. How do you do this. Are you all on a slow moving raft. Best show on air, you talk sence to us. Thank you.
Hi Geoff. We use something called a slider which moves the camera slowly but smoothly. Glad you noticed! Thanks for watching.
Hi Geoff. We use something called a slider which moves the camera slowly but smoothly. Glad you noticed! Thanks for watching.
Hi Geoff. We use something called a slider which moves the camera slowly but smoothly. Glad you noticed! Thanks for watching.
Experience, practice and learning together with good advice will make you a better photographer. Better equipment should improve the results of your limitations.
One question I still wrestle with: does it ever make sense to use IS on a tripod? I think the question is complex. Older cameras (think Canon 5d ii and 5d iii) lacked IBIS, but the EF lenses of the day had IS. However, there was advice floating around among photographers of those days saying you shouldn't turn IS on for a lens that was mounted on a tripod. The explanation was that the electronics in the lens were designed solely for the sort of vibration that arises from hand-holding the camera, and that when IS attempted to compensate for vibration coming up the legs of the tripod, it could actually make matters worse. Certainly the properties of those two types of vibration are very different: tripod vibration is probably one or several orders of magnitude faster than that from hand-holding. However, now that IS design is about ten years further down the road, and IBIS is added to the mix, I strongly suspect things are different today. IBIS in particular, which moves the sensor, is moving far less mass than the IS in a lens, which has to move entire optical elements. So, I'd say that today, turning on IBIS (at least) might help a shot on a tripod that's subject to wind, or which is set up on a raised boardwalk in a preserve or a national park.
Comments?
About the only time I've purposely used IS on a tripod was when it was very windy too
For the Mavic 3 and run the DJI FLY App, which tablet does you recommend, taking into account the bright screen so we can fly in the sun and others. Thank you.
Hi JC. Sorry, but we have no idea, as we rarely use a drone and have only ever tried one screen.
@@PhotographyOnline Thanks
I'm an amateur using a crop sensor camera, looking to go pro.
what advice would you give for a guy like me about getting new gear?
Hi Rahul. There's nothing wrong with a crop sensor camera, but depending on what kind of photography you want to do, then it may (or may not) limit you. For example, if you want to do portraits and get super shallow DOF and nice creamy bokeh, then the larger the sensor, the easier this is. Also if you want to shoot super wide for achitecture etc, then a crop sensor will limit your lens choice far more than FF. But if none of these are an issue, then don't worry about changing your camera, as it may not make much difference. Hope this helps and good luck.
One tip: with long exposures, you need to turn off the IS when shooting with a tripod. Otherwise the photos lose their sharpness. Because the IS system is still trying to stabilize the image and it causes the matrix micro-vibrations.
Thanks Darius. We are aware of this but this feature was not about doing long exposures on a tripod, so we didn't want to confuse the message. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment.
@@clivewoolley4492 From my experience: when you shooting from a tripod with shutter speeds from 1 second or longer, you have to turn off all the stabilization systems (body and lens). Otherwise, stabilization will worsen the sharpness of the photo.
Okay, I don't want to be "that guy", but let's have fun. At 21.42 Markus was taking a photo on his SLR with a lens cap on! How does that work?. And at 28.30 did you notice the beautiful light moving on the hill behind Ruth? (Maybe I have had too much coffee today). Great show. Thanks for all you do.
Hi Jay. You may have had too much coffee because the lens cap is clearly in my hand at 21:42. If you look again, I take it off when it is obscured and when it comes back into view, the lens cap is on my left hand under the camera. It's my slight of hand!
I didn't hear bean-bags mentioned in the steady image part of the show - although there was a brief shot of one in use...
We didn't use a bean bag at any point, so there wasn't one shown in the video. This was not a featue about all the options to steady a lens - it was a feature to look at the limitations which exist when handholding a lens. Hope that makes sense.
@@PhotographyOnline Makes sense! It would have been outwith the parameters of the item.
But perhaps the humble beanbag deserves a short section to itself? Lighter & easier to carry than a tripod; steadier than hand-held alone. And obviously used by the team - viz. 17:15 - 17:20... :-)
Always enjoy the videos, not least for the backgrounds - many years ago I had the privilege of living on Skye for a year or so.
@@5prevent8 ah yes, that bean bag was from an old video which we pulled in to fill a gap in this one.
Just a FYI to anybody interested in cinefilm for stills: there are several stocks available that have had the remjet removed.
Yes but they tend to be more expensive, so it just depends if you want to spend more money and do C-41 or spend less and do ECN-2.
Absolutely better gear lets you capture certain shots that lesser equipment couldn't so easily. Does that make you a better photographer? Debatable, does it get you more keepers? Yes. The animal eye detect AF of my A7IV and high quality constant aperture zooms have given me abilities I didn't have previously. The ability to do the legwork and then just point and shoot is amazing.
If you're doing architecture, landscapes etc and taking your time. The new fancy systems only really matter for sharpness and megapixels. Which for many, won't make a difference as most lenses are sharp at F8.
Thanks for watching. All the best
Great show as ever but was that a wedding couple photobombing Ruth at the start? And, serious question, can you please recommend a black and white film processing lab in Scotland?
It’s so easy (and more fun) to process your own photos at home. All you need are a few basic things and you’re good to go. There will probably be a lab somewhere that does b&w but most people will develop their own film. Although.not in Scotland, try Peak Imaging.
I've arthritis and my photos have really improved since i started using my kingjoy tripod more or less all the time...i suppose its horses for courses.
Good to hear Marlene. Thanks for watching as always.
Harry is only struggling because he is looking through a 5Ds manual for an R5 camera 🤣 Great show though
Is the reciprocal rule "designed" around full frame cameras? Although I suppose Ansel Adams didn't use that format.
Hi Julian. It makes no difference what size the sensor is as the reciprocal rule is focal length dependent. For exampole, if using a 50mm lens on a MFT camera, you would get exactly the same amount of camera movement as you would on a FF camera or a medium format one. It's a myth that different sensor sizes provide different magnifications for the same focal length. All that is happening is that the smaller sensor sizes are cropping the image, but the actual reproduction image is exactly the same. We did a feature all about this on our "Sensor Sizes Explained" show last year. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@PhotographyOnline I hear what you're saying, but surely if you had say a 1 degree amount of shake, then on a small sensor (with the same number of pixels as the full frame) that 1 degree would cover more pixels than on the full frame. If it's then enlarged to the same size there would be more blur (although the image would be zoomed/cropped in more).
In your example you are correct, but pixel density doesn't need to come into the equation. If you have a 50mm lens on any camera, then a 1 degree movement would cause the image to move exactly the same amount on the sensor. Obviously, the smaller the sensor, the greater the enlargement needed to get the image to a givem size, so a smaller sensor would show up any movement more than a bigger sensor - assuming the reproduction ratio was to the same size. This is irrespective of pixel density. Hope that makes sense. (Marcus)
@@PhotographyOnline Yes, that makes sense. Thank you for taking the time to write an explanation.
It's a night and day difference on image quality if I put my Canon Rebel T6 on a tripod. I try to use it as much as possible until I can afford a better body.
Completely ignoring the existence of CineStill which is friendlier to the end user having had the Remjet layer already removed allowing it to be processed in C41. I fully expected that part of the show to be sponsored by Flic Film, who I’ve never heard of.
So you’ve never heard of Flicfilm but now you have - perfect. Proves that us featuring new brands helps them to gain awareness. The feature wasn’t sponsored. Cinestill is more expensive than FlicFilm, so we chose to feature the cheaper option.
@@PhotographyOnline but you also chose not to mentions that other films of this type exist.
Made it on time so elloo everyone
Hi Jona. Glad to see you here.
I've always found a tripod extremely handy. trying to whack someone with a GFX100 or similar sized camera while handheld is simply impossible. With it on a tripod, a good purchase can be found and maximum damage done to any would-be assailant. And not one of these light carbon jobbies either - they can snap on impact. A heavy-duty one ensures maximum damage.
I am joking of course. Any camera will do...
Thanks for watching. All the best
I've joked about being on tripod defense before
So, you're trying to tell me that holding the camera vertically, with the shutter at the top and and your elbow winging out over your head is more stable than having it at the bottom so both elbows are tucked in to your body? Go on and pull the other one.
Hi Pete. Yes. Cameras have a grip on them and are designed to be held that way. If you hold it upside down, not only do you look like a noob, but you will sacrifice stability. Even your spine will end up curved rather than straight, making composition more difficult. Try it and you will see.
Once again it,s the Canon show. Olympus has class leading IBIS, you don,t mention that. With a tele len,s no system would componsate, I can get hand held shot,s at 4/5 sec with a say 20/45 mm len,s. Please do a feature on an unique Olympus feature, "Live Composite", genius level application.
Hi Steve. Send us an Olympus and we’ll do it. We only use Canon because we have them as our own cameras. The feature was about technique - irrespective of camera. Not once did we mention Canon, but we have to use a camera to demonstrate the principle. The content would have been exactly the same whether we had used an Olympus, Nikon, Fuji or Sony.
@@PhotographyOnline Will send you an Olympus if you pay for postage & return, insured, mind the menu,s take some learning.
Better equipment doesnt make you a better photographer, but it will give you better results ;-)
Will new equipment make you a better photographer? Oh, I hope so! I'm getting a new lens tomorrow and it's going to fix a cataract. 🤓
Fact, Tom Cruise will only work on a movie shot on film and it's in the contract. And the IMAX film cameras use a film similar to 120 medium format which can be found for sale, cut and rolled for medium format cameras.
👍💪
I have added new gear to compensate for lack of technic and training. Now I realize how poor my photos are and I have almost lost interest in photo now.
There’s an east fix to your problem Thor - practice and gain more experience. As Harry said, spending money on a workshop or on books would be more beneficial than buying more gear.
@@PhotographyOnline I,would like to make more portraites and model photo but I have no freinds or girlfriends who want to model for me and now I have used so much on gear I have no money to spend on prof models. And there are no workshops in the town I live in and I am not a literate person, who can just learn from something I read in a book. It might be better to sell my gear before it gets too old and worthless.
Shouldn’t that be at most 1/50 th of a second?
I can't remember the context where we said that Steve, but I guess it depends if you are thinking about the actual exp time or just the scale of the options.
Never buy anything full price. That is my mantra 😁
Hi « C »
Absolutely not..............Henri Cartier Bresson with his M3 could always take better photographs than someone today with all it's new technologically and equipment.