You may want to consider putting some washers on the bolts that hold the motor mount to the chassis. It looks like it wouldn't be too hard for those bolt heads to pull through.
Do you really need to use the break rotors with any electric conversion? I'm doing a 30 degree North Conversion soon. Thanks bro for this.... Looks like a TON of fitment issues with this
No you definitely don’t need to use them….but it puts a lot more strain on the esc and motor to slow down an rc that weighs over 40 pounds like this…..glad you enjoyed the video man
You said Losi makes some brackets. Does this mean they make a conversion kit like this? Asking because I can only find a discontinued conversion kit Losi racing used to make.
Cant go wrong i have arrma traxxas losi team associated ecx redcat ect.. my traxxas are definitely more durable then my arrmas well were i sold the arrma lol. With that being said i have 3 dhk hobbies trucks i have a hunter bl sct running a firma 130a ecs and a 3674 2250kv. A zombie 8e stock A shogun 1/8 with a hobbywing sct 120a esc and a 3670 2050kv all running 4s and they are some of the most durable trucks i own.
Sometimes changes don't go the way you want them to. But that's just makes it more complicated, difficult and fun,all at the same time. PS, could you grind the brake plate down? KEEP ON BASHING, OR RACEING. FROM BARRIE ONTARIO CANADA
I’ll save my money….I’ve actually got a bigger pinion to put on so that should eliminate the clearance issues between the rotor and the can of the motor
Yeah but I wanna keep it…..using the esc and motor results in a lot more heat and strain……the esc and motor should be able to stay much cooler this way
@@RCKnockout Good to know. Did you ever figure out a fix for the battery tray? Sorry for all the questions just haven’t seen many videos using this kit and wanna be prepared for anything I may have to mod once I get it.
I could be wrong….stock gearing made the most sense in my head to start with though…..maybe I am supposed to run a bigger pinion?…..I’ve seen a couple people run 22t pinion…..that’s what I ordered….my plans to put that pinion in it instead of this 18t
@@RCKnockout definitely 👍 the power instantly with electric and 2 stroke has to spool up , im going be replacing the engine in five t , its been a headache to run and tune , used be one pull and screaming all day . What you do with your stock motor ? Keeping just un case go back to fuel.
18t is a stock size pinion on a Losi 5ive-T….hence why I picked an 18t…..they didn’t specify what pinion size would fit……obviously you’d assume a stock size pinion would fit
Yeah I wanna keep the Servo for braking….takes a ton of strain off the motor and esc…..the electronics actually get hottest under braking….especially with how heavy this truck is
Quality comes in the aging of the aluminum, not the look of the machining. You can have the best machining quality in the world but won't be worth a damn if the threads pull out on the first run. Aluminum is actually very weak until the materials are aged to 6061 or 7075 with a tensile strength of T4 or better. I personally couldn't ever convert my 5ive T to electric. I don't care what system is installed in one, getting the run time of the gas engine is impossible.
Didn’t know that….thanks for letting me know…..to all their own I guess….I can run mine in so many different places once it’s converted over to Brushless…that’s why I’m doing it
@@RCKnockout I consider the 5ive T to heavy to run within a town or a village especially around small children cause they always want to be close or try it so for me I'm not concerned about the noise. Even some of my smaller ones that would only do like 35 mph max like my Losi DB Pro on 2s I wouldn't let a kid use. I've got 16 RCs total and half of them are electric anyways is one of the many reasons I wouldn't convert any of my nitro or 2 strokes. The only reason I know anything about aged and non aged aluminum is because I used to make aircraft parts for the military and commercial companies. All of our aluminum products were aged according to customer specs, structural were aged to 7075 and non structural were aged to 6061. 24 hours at typically between 275-350° would produce 7075. Typically same heat cycle for 6 to 12 hours would create 6061. Aging cannot be done until the material is heat treated which is around 20 minutes at 1400° and put straight into a freezer to be worked. There is also a natural aging which means the product once worked just stays on a shelf for a week. The aged products then undergo a tensile test where a "coupon" is cut from the same material and undergoes all the processes (aside from forming) the product itself goes through. Aluminum that hasn't been heat treated can be "ripped" in half by hand. If it has been heat treated and not aged, shouldn't have threads cut into the material without a injection mold of steel or brass into the hole. Obviously there are far stricter specs for aircraft than for RC, but a lot of the two coincide when it comes to hardware usage. This is why you don't find many threaded holes in chassis or shock towers for RC that aren't in 6061 or 7075.
@@SebastianLong interesting….well I know that they harden steel by heating it up and putting it in oil or water or something along those lines……must be very similar for Aluminum…it’s not coated in anything though, right? Just heat cycled?
@@RCKnockout Dipping it in oil or water comes after taking it out of the heat treating oven. We used water as oil can catch on fire at temperatures we heat treated some products at. Similar process for both, yes but most metals don't need aged like stainless or plain steel. We did age some titanium but that was to give it a higher tensile strength close to that of inconel. Inconel is the hardest man made Metal and it consists of titanium mixed with nickel. Most aged products need to be free of any oils or impurities like fingerprints and is why products are acetone cleaned before both heat treating and aging. Sometimes the products will also go through a acid bath and a "molten salt" bath before moving on. Obviously those processes are more meant for aerospace than it is of concern in RC.
@@SebastianLong yeah it’s probably not as crucial when it comes to rc parts compared to Aerospace products….you learn something new everyday….thanks 👍😉
@@RCKnockout on my 1:5 FG 4WD car build, I only brake with motor, the esc do this easy because i took the right ratio pinion- main gear, my gears going nowhere- they are tight on the axles :) mybe take same locktite
Awesome things happening for you 💯 can’t wait for the start up vid 😎🎯
Thanks! Me too!
Awesome video my man decent set up on a budget build.. great job thumbs up 👍
Thanks bro 😎
Good stuff bro can’t wait to see it go🔥🔥👊🏽
Thanks bro! Me too!!
You may want to consider putting some washers on the bolts that hold the motor mount to the chassis. It looks like it wouldn't be too hard for those bolt heads to pull through.
That might not be a bad idea…..thanks for the tip! 👍😉
Double thumbs up for this series
Thanks man!
I was just going to buy this kit but you convinced me not too thank you sir. Great content.
Thanks! Glad you found it helfpul!
Do you really need to use the break rotors with any electric conversion?
I'm doing a 30 degree North Conversion soon.
Thanks bro for this.... Looks like a TON of fitment issues with this
No you definitely don’t need to use them….but it puts a lot more strain on the esc and motor to slow down an rc that weighs over 40 pounds like this…..glad you enjoyed the video man
very cool i can’t wait to see it run!
Thanks man!
Cool conversion Can't wait to see it rip 🔥👍✌️
Thanks! Me too!
The same guy makes xmaxx motor mounts for larger motors also it's ok the aluminum is super weak so be careful. 👍👊
How do you know the aluminum is weak? Did you run this kit?
You said Losi makes some brackets. Does this mean they make a conversion kit like this? Asking because I can only find a discontinued conversion kit Losi racing used to make.
I’m not sure if Losi makes it anymore….I’m pretty sure I’ve seen online some place in Germany selling them….they claim to be TLR
Top of the morning nice car
Thanks man! 😉
LOL epic video dude!! SO does it mean that you will knock out your RC cars and they will break and eventually stop working?! 😅
That kinda was the plan when I started the channel….can’t afford that…at least not yet lol 😂
Kraton diff is now fixed 🙌 might be time to switch to team traxxas
Yeah at least the parts are cheaper
Cant go wrong i have arrma traxxas losi team associated ecx redcat ect.. my traxxas are definitely more durable then my arrmas well were i sold the arrma lol. With that being said i have 3 dhk hobbies trucks i have a hunter bl sct running a firma 130a ecs and a 3674 2250kv.
A zombie 8e stock
A shogun 1/8 with a hobbywing sct 120a esc and a 3670 2050kv all running 4s and they are some of the most durable trucks i own.
@@jebrc really? What is DHK? Never heard of that brand
@@RCKnockout its a off brand but i have 3 and bash them hard and still aint broke nothing on any
@@jebrc wow…..how much do they cost?
Gear up it. Pushes away furthermore
Sometimes changes don't go the way you want them to. But that's just makes it more complicated, difficult and fun,all at the same time.
PS, could you grind the brake plate down?
KEEP ON BASHING, OR RACEING.
FROM BARRIE ONTARIO CANADA
Yeah it definitely doesn’t always go to plan…..you mean grind down the rotor? I’m actually gonna put a 22t pinion in to fix that issue
Grind a bit off then outside your disc, that way you can run what ever pinion. Shoulda went the Losi conversion..
I’ll save my money….I’ve actually got a bigger pinion to put on so that should eliminate the clearance issues between the rotor and the can of the motor
on the motor mount if you used a bigger pinion gear would the motor have lined up with the holes
I still needed to dremel a bit for a 22t to fit
Where did you by that conversion kid for making feom gas 2 electric again bro
Why did you leave the brake system in the speed control has the brakes
Less strain on the power system….braking generates a ton of heat
Get Longer screws you'll be fine..if you have to put lil locknuts on them
Can’t you leave the mechanical break out ? The esc can be used as a break.
Yeah but I wanna keep it…..using the esc and motor results in a lot more heat and strain……the esc and motor should be able to stay much cooler this way
@@RCKnockout sounds logic to me. I was just thinking all other rcs use the esc and motor to break. But less stress for the electrics is an advantage 👍
How has this kit been holding up for you?
Good!
@@RCKnockout I know when your video you had some initial concerns. Everything held up just fine or do you have to modify anything else?
@@jdmf22 just the initial issue with the battery tray and the motor mount….otherwise it’s held up well since then
@@RCKnockout Good to know. Did you ever figure out a fix for the battery tray?
Sorry for all the questions just haven’t seen many videos using this kit and wanna be prepared for anything I may have to mod once I get it.
@@jdmf22 no honestly I’m probably just gonna continue stacking them
I love that you always call them machines because they are not toys. Not at this level. Lol.
True….1/5th scales are definitely considered a “machine” in my book
Seems like a 20t pinion would save ya alot of headaches bro
I ordered a 22t……the motor mount alignment is kinda janky
Pretty sure you supposed to run biggest pinion possible, its only 800kv high torque, most motors 13 17t pinions are 2000kv to 4000kv
I could be wrong….stock gearing made the most sense in my head to start with though…..maybe I am supposed to run a bigger pinion?…..I’ve seen a couple people run 22t pinion…..that’s what I ordered….my plans to put that pinion in it instead of this 18t
@@RCKnockout definitely 👍 the power instantly with electric and 2 stroke has to spool up , im going be replacing the engine in five t , its been a headache to run and tune , used be one pull and screaming all day . What you do with your stock motor ? Keeping just un case go back to fuel.
@@paulclancy2404 yeah just gonna keep it…..
I don't like the battery trays next to the pinion
Yeah me either…I wish it at least had tabs to hold the batteries from sliding off the tray
You could have saved your self a lot of work had you used a large proper sized Pinon. That the mount was made for.
18t is a stock size pinion on a Losi 5ive-T….hence why I picked an 18t…..they didn’t specify what pinion size would fit……obviously you’d assume a stock size pinion would fit
Ebay you said butt wat do i ha e type in 2 find it can somwone help me whit it
It doesn’t appear to be available any longer
Ditch the brake rotor you don't need it
Yeah I wanna keep the Servo for braking….takes a ton of strain off the motor and esc…..the electronics actually get hottest under braking….especially with how heavy this truck is
Quality comes in the aging of the aluminum, not the look of the machining. You can have the best machining quality in the world but won't be worth a damn if the threads pull out on the first run. Aluminum is actually very weak until the materials are aged to 6061 or 7075 with a tensile strength of T4 or better. I personally couldn't ever convert my 5ive T to electric. I don't care what system is installed in one, getting the run time of the gas engine is impossible.
Didn’t know that….thanks for letting me know…..to all their own I guess….I can run mine in so many different places once it’s converted over to Brushless…that’s why I’m doing it
@@RCKnockout I consider the 5ive T to heavy to run within a town or a village especially around small children cause they always want to be close or try it so for me I'm not concerned about the noise. Even some of my smaller ones that would only do like 35 mph max like my Losi DB Pro on 2s I wouldn't let a kid use. I've got 16 RCs total and half of them are electric anyways is one of the many reasons I wouldn't convert any of my nitro or 2 strokes. The only reason I know anything about aged and non aged aluminum is because I used to make aircraft parts for the military and commercial companies. All of our aluminum products were aged according to customer specs, structural were aged to 7075 and non structural were aged to 6061. 24 hours at typically between 275-350° would produce 7075. Typically same heat cycle for 6 to 12 hours would create 6061. Aging cannot be done until the material is heat treated which is around 20 minutes at 1400° and put straight into a freezer to be worked. There is also a natural aging which means the product once worked just stays on a shelf for a week. The aged products then undergo a tensile test where a "coupon" is cut from the same material and undergoes all the processes (aside from forming) the product itself goes through. Aluminum that hasn't been heat treated can be "ripped" in half by hand. If it has been heat treated and not aged, shouldn't have threads cut into the material without a injection mold of steel or brass into the hole. Obviously there are far stricter specs for aircraft than for RC, but a lot of the two coincide when it comes to hardware usage. This is why you don't find many threaded holes in chassis or shock towers for RC that aren't in 6061 or 7075.
@@SebastianLong interesting….well I know that they harden steel by heating it up and putting it in oil or water or something along those lines……must be very similar for Aluminum…it’s not coated in anything though, right? Just heat cycled?
@@RCKnockout Dipping it in oil or water comes after taking it out of the heat treating oven. We used water as oil can catch on fire at temperatures we heat treated some products at. Similar process for both, yes but most metals don't need aged like stainless or plain steel. We did age some titanium but that was to give it a higher tensile strength close to that of inconel. Inconel is the hardest man made Metal and it consists of titanium mixed with nickel. Most aged products need to be free of any oils or impurities like fingerprints and is why products are acetone cleaned before both heat treating and aging. Sometimes the products will also go through a acid bath and a "molten salt" bath before moving on. Obviously those processes are more meant for aerospace than it is of concern in RC.
@@SebastianLong yeah it’s probably not as crucial when it comes to rc parts compared to Aerospace products….you learn something new everyday….thanks 👍😉
mechanical brake is not nessecary with a brushless motor :)
That’s true but it’s a lot of heat generated under braking using the esc and motor also the pinion tends to come off under hard braking
@@RCKnockout on my 1:5 FG 4WD car build, I only brake with motor, the esc do this easy because i took the right ratio pinion- main gear, my gears going nowhere- they are tight on the axles :) mybe take same locktite
Try to use a controller with abs- and the heat is better to controll even without mechanical Brake
@@The_future1991 the mechanical brakes do work really well….I do think it could be beneficial to run them on a truck as big and heavy as the 5t
@@The_future1991 good to know! I use loctite but under hard braking it’ll still spin the pinion loose unless I go to red permanent threadlock