I just did this today on a 2011 JKU. Exactly the same setup. Couple notes! You dont have the twist/turn/loosen the shifter. Just remove the 13mm(not 1/2) bolt and slide it off. It will be a little pain but comes off easy, much like a battery terminal. The solenoid pack is super easy to replace once the valve body is out, 4 small torx. You do not have to loosen exhaust. Those "valve springs" or whatever he called only go back in one way, pretty easy and are the same. No worries there. Overall, 1.5hr job. Maybe 3 if your unsure. Clean those plugs well and watch out for dirt getting in anything. This job requires about 5.5qts of fluid ATF +4. Did filter as well. This fixed several codes my buddy had and works great!
Good video man, im a tech and havnt done one of these valve bodys before and your video is by far the best on youtube for valve body removal on the 42rle
Who on earth would downvote this? This is an incredibly helpful video. I guess some people just can't be pleased. Michael, thanks for saving me a ton of time and hassle.
This video is great. Trying to drop the value body on my dakota it has the same transmission and this is the first video that really shows the plugs good.
Thank you for this video we have spent over an hr trying to get the valve body down and couldn't get it to budge until this video. Nobody mentions the clips or the bracket that needs removed.
I appreciate you going to your toolbox to check the size of that bolt. I'm headed to the junkyard to pull a couple of shift solenoids and I need to know what tools to bring with me because I can't bring my garage with me. Much appreciated. Thanks for posting this even though you knew it wasn't perfect. It helped me.
@@michaeloneal6654 sure did! I had a bit of confusion with putting the shifter arm back into it's lowest position. I didn't realize that the "turntable head" had a tab that fits under the base. Obvious in the end. She's running fine now!
Helpful tip: once you're ready to drop the valve body, leave a couple bolts screwed in a couple threads so the valve body drops a half inch or so. Then take a string or safety wire and slide it in above the valve body to catch on the two springs. Tie it off frame rail to frame rail, then drop your valve body without them falling out.
Very good video. I have an 05 liberty I'm changing out now. I took a 4 inch hole saw and cut access holes for these hard to reach wire connectors . I will make some sheet metal covers and just seal them down and fasten with short sheet metal screws. Long ago they use to have access plates over transmissions. I will install a new carpet and kale the back carpet under the front seats. That's my way of solving bad engineering. Just thought I would throw that out there.
Loved my Liberty!! More than my Wrangler...shh don't tell her. I could climb a f tree with that... great tires... light... should have never sold it!!! Great Jeeps! Drove 20 miles in an iced blizzard once... no problems slipped just barely climbing the last hill for home.... I'm like..hmm odd.. looked down... drove the entire way...out of 4 wheel!! I just smiled..h yeah! 👍🤭
Nice exactly what I needed to see -I can’t access my clips up top of the valve body its always the simple stuff that doesn’t go easy there’s no room for pulling the clips off!
I am in the middle of this, the pistons falling out was an oh shit moment. I took one of the Valve body bolts to Ace hardware and matched the threads. I then bought four all thread rods with nuts and washers, they have them in the specialty bolt drawers. They are about six inches long, I use them for jacking bolts so I have both hands free and you can slowly control the removal and installation.
I have the same leak, I've replaced the cooler a couple times now. What a pain to go through all that just to find it wasn't in the pan. Thanks for the update 😁
Much needed video! Made it clear on the things no else has been. What made you take out your valve body? I have a P1745 code and don't know if replacing the solenoid pack will fix it or not. Any help would be much appreciated!
I replaced the shift solenoid and now it doesn’t go on drive it makes a clunck and goes on neutral only works on neutral and reverse I wonder if i got a defective part or i need to program it??
I was wondering why you needed to remove the valve body in the first place. I plan to remove mine ( 2008 Wrangler ) I have problems with Torque Converter shudder and will try the Sonnax kit to solve it. Do you have this problem and if so the resulty. God Bless and Thank You for all of this Thank You
Do you have a link to the replacement valve body? I have the same issue but unsure on which one to get. some say one plug and some say too. I have an 09 JK. Thanks
I don't understand why you had to unplug the three sensors. Where are the sensors located? Also, do you know where the neutral safety switch is located? Do I need to remove the valve body to access it? Thanks. Update: Never mind, found out it's a range sensor and yes, it's located above the valve body so your video will come in handy for me in the near future. Thanks
My shift linkage appears to be keeping my valve body in. I cannot remove it fully after following all steps in the video :( all the rest was very helpful though
How where you able to remove the valve body connecting rod it would not come loose just put it back together for a later date will try again bad time of year for shade tree
Hey Sonny, From what I read - you have to clean the rod after you remove the shifter rod connector. Sometimne it can even develop a bur on the metal that will get in the way. Use some steel wool or sandpaper to get rust and debris away from the hole to avoid contamination. Any pieces getting in your trans may [will] kill it :) PS. I hope that we are talking about the same thing here and that it helps you - Good Luck- Jeff
Sorry, I wasn't planning on making a video at all but because it was difficult to figure out and I couldn't find good information online, I decided to make one right then and there. Yes, I stuck the valve body back in so I could show you what it looks like after you drop the pan down and yes I left those two pieces out to be able to show them to you. Kind of confusing maybe but I thought it would be helpful to have a visual. Feel free to show me up by making a better video 😁
@@michaeloneal6654 it was more informative than anything I have found also the stupid connecting rod we could not figure how to get the valve body low enough to disconnect it I may have more damage than a solenoid
I just did this today on a 2011 JKU. Exactly the same setup. Couple notes! You dont have the twist/turn/loosen the shifter. Just remove the 13mm(not 1/2) bolt and slide it off. It will be a little pain but comes off easy, much like a battery terminal.
The solenoid pack is super easy to replace once the valve body is out, 4 small torx.
You do not have to loosen exhaust.
Those "valve springs" or whatever he called only go back in one way, pretty easy and are the same. No worries there.
Overall, 1.5hr job. Maybe 3 if your unsure.
Clean those plugs well and watch out for dirt getting in anything.
This job requires about 5.5qts of fluid ATF +4. Did filter as well.
This fixed several codes my buddy had and works great!
what coses did you have and what did it clear? have a 0749 and 0869 and got the dreaded 1745 that went into limp mode.
codes
@@matthewstinson3394 P1776 & P0740
Good video man, im a tech and havnt done one of these valve bodys before and your video is by far the best on youtube for valve body removal on the 42rle
Thank you! I'm happy I was able to help.
Who on earth would downvote this? This is an incredibly helpful video. I guess some people just can't be pleased.
Michael, thanks for saving me a ton of time and hassle.
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Some shit ass dealer that don't want Michael helping us... save $$$$$🤗❤😎
This video is great. Trying to drop the value body on my dakota it has the same transmission and this is the first video that really shows the plugs good.
Thank you for this video we have spent over an hr trying to get the valve body down and couldn't get it to budge until this video. Nobody mentions the clips or the bracket that needs removed.
I appreciate you going to your toolbox to check the size of that bolt. I'm headed to the junkyard to pull a couple of shift solenoids and I need to know what tools to bring with me because I can't bring my garage with me. Much appreciated. Thanks for posting this even though you knew it wasn't perfect. It helped me.
Awesome, I'm glad it helped! I hope things go smoothly for you.
@@michaeloneal6654 sure did! I had a bit of confusion with putting the shifter arm back into it's lowest position. I didn't realize that the "turntable head" had a tab that fits under the base. Obvious in the end. She's running fine now!
Helpful tip: once you're ready to drop the valve body, leave a couple bolts screwed in a couple threads so the valve body drops a half inch or so. Then take a string or safety wire and slide it in above the valve body to catch on the two springs. Tie it off frame rail to frame rail, then drop your valve body without them falling out.
Very good video.
I have an 05 liberty I'm changing out now.
I took a 4 inch hole saw and cut access holes for these hard to reach wire connectors .
I will make some sheet metal covers and just seal them down and fasten with short sheet metal screws.
Long ago they use to have access plates over transmissions.
I will install a new carpet and kale the back carpet under the front seats.
That's my way of solving bad engineering.
Just thought I would throw that out there.
Loved my Liberty!! More than my Wrangler...shh don't tell her. I could climb a f tree with that... great tires... light... should have never sold it!!! Great Jeeps! Drove 20 miles in an iced blizzard once... no problems slipped just barely climbing the last hill for home.... I'm like..hmm odd.. looked down... drove the entire way...out of 4 wheel!! I just smiled..h yeah! 👍🤭
Thank you Michael!! Wow.. and in an instant.. another good person helps the masses via uTube. 🤗👍👏👏👏😎
Nice exactly what I needed to see -I can’t access my clips up top of the valve body its always the simple stuff that doesn’t go easy there’s no room for pulling the clips off!
Yeah, it's very tight and difficult to figure out without knowing what to do! I hope your project went well
I am in the middle of this, the pistons falling out was an oh shit moment.
I took one of the Valve body bolts to Ace hardware and matched the threads.
I then bought four all thread rods with nuts and washers, they have them in the specialty bolt drawers.
They are about six inches long, I use them for jacking bolts so I have both hands free and you can slowly control the removal and installation.
Was hopeful you were showing the valve body removal, Thanks I’m freezing 🥶
Bad time of year for working outside! I hope you got it all taken care of.
It’s helpful to a point. Anything more than where the video ended would have been nice.
This was very helpful on getting it out but now i cant get it back in any tips.
this video saved my butt thank you
Thank you for the video!
update , i gave up and put it together, it was low on fluid from a leaking external trans cooler.
I have the same leak, I've replaced the cooler a couple times now. What a pain to go through all that just to find it wasn't in the pan. Thanks for the update 😁
Thanks man, this helped a lot!
Awesome video fellow Jeeper! Do you take the 10mm bolts off the valve before or after you turn that thing clockwise?
Much needed video! Made it clear on the things no else has been. What made you take out your valve body? I have a P1745 code and don't know if replacing the solenoid pack will fix it or not. Any help would be much appreciated!
@@roberttemple8318 Did you find the fix for the P1745 code?
Same setup in my 2010 dodge nitro, need to remove driveshaft I had po846 & po732 I’m not finished yet
I replaced the shift solenoid and now it doesn’t go on drive it makes a clunck and goes on neutral only works on neutral and reverse I wonder if i got a defective part or i need to program it??
What about the cable holding the valve body
I was wondering why you needed to remove the valve body in the first place. I plan to remove mine ( 2008 Wrangler ) I have problems with Torque Converter shudder and will try the Sonnax kit to solve it. Do you have this problem and if so the resulty. God Bless and Thank You for all of this Thank You
Do you have a link to the replacement valve body? I have the same issue but unsure on which one to get. some say one plug and some say too. I have an 09 JK. Thanks
Sorry Leroy, I don't.
Looks like he posted this video
I don't understand why you had to unplug the three sensors. Where are the sensors located? Also, do you know where the neutral safety switch is located? Do I need to remove the valve body to access it? Thanks.
Update: Never mind, found out it's a range sensor and yes, it's located above the valve body so your video will come in handy for me in the near future. Thanks
My shift linkage appears to be keeping my valve body in. I cannot remove it fully after following all steps in the video :( all the rest was very helpful though
How where you able to remove the valve body connecting rod it would not come loose just put it back together for a later date will try again bad time of year for shade tree
Hey Sonny, From what I read - you have to clean the rod after you remove the shifter rod connector. Sometimne it can even develop a bur on the metal that will get in the way. Use some steel wool or sandpaper to get rust and debris away from the hole to avoid contamination. Any pieces getting in your trans may [will] kill it :)
PS. I hope that we are talking about the same thing here and that it helps you - Good Luck- Jeff
Sorry - PSS I believe that it NEEDS to be in Neutral as well
Another video I caught said low gear or 1st
Which tires/ wheels do you run?
Walker Evans racing beadlocks, Goodyear Wrangler MTRs. 4th set of these tires, I absolutely love them.
I’m currently trying to find the torque converter clutch solenoid do you know which one it is on the unit?
did you get p0740 code? and by changing the tcc solenoid help remove the code?
@@leolopez951 i got the p0740, this would help alot
I did the exact same job on my 06 TJ BUT now my shifter is extremely hard to move and my Jeep won’t turn on, HELP ME!!!!!
did you ever figure out the issue? im having the same problem.
So you pulled the valve body out and didn't show it, then stuck it back in without those 2 pieces. This video is confusing
Sorry, I wasn't planning on making a video at all but because it was difficult to figure out and I couldn't find good information online, I decided to make one right then and there. Yes, I stuck the valve body back in so I could show you what it looks like after you drop the pan down and yes I left those two pieces out to be able to show them to you. Kind of confusing maybe but I thought it would be helpful to have a visual. Feel free to show me up by making a better video 😁
@@michaeloneal6654 it was more informative than anything I have found also the stupid connecting rod we could not figure how to get the valve body low enough to disconnect it I may have more damage than a solenoid
@@michaeloneal6654 whatb happen to the transmission im got stock o slipping from gear