Awesome. I’ve got some coming. Glacier Black for the head pipes. And Gloss Black for the heat shields. Josh told me I can even polish it up some more with OOO steel wool. Thanks. I’m taking a 2020 Kawasaki Z900RS cafe pipe and attempting to replicate a 82 Z1000 Eddie Lawson Kerker pipe for it. In 82 it was Black Chrome. My plater here said they didn’t think the plating would stick to the stainless exhaust on the Z,s pipes. Here we go. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks again to you for stellar customer service. 👍😁
I've used Cerakote for quite a few parts of my Ironhead Sportster engine rebuild. I love how it looks and I am really looking forward to the long lasting protection for the cast iron heads and cylinders.
Here in Lillehammer Norway we have done quite a lot of turbo housings and headers for highly tuned cars, we use 100 gallon ultrasonic tanks for decreasing , and wet blasting (vapour honing) witk alu oxide besides that we follow the cerakote "rules" and we have really good experiences with the c-7600 and other high temp colors. we tested this on a turbo housing on a 2ltr (or 122 cu inch) Ford Cosworth delivering 580 horsepower while on the testbench , 20 gallon of fuel was used under optimizing the fuel and ignition the c-7600 looked like new after that . the max temp is 1800Fah or 980 Celsius , but if a multiple carburettor engine (motorbikes) runs extremely lean on one cylinder the temp can easally reach higher temps destroying first the coating and later the exhaust valve/s ,-)
I have a muffler with cerakote coating. I want to paint another color of cerakote and I wanted to ask, do I need to remove the old ceracote or is it possible to paint over that cerakote coating?
What recommendations do yall have for the collector where all four tunes meet on the inside radius of each…. I have your fun and everything else and was just coating a set of looks as well…. Pipes are so tight together cannot get coating all the way down in there. It’s barely noticeable but def there
Be careful with exceeding the cure temp because the color will change. I used STORMTROOPER WHITE Item: H-297 on the outside trim of a gas wall oven door and it turned coffee brown quickly. FYI we keep a whitish dish towel on the oven door no problem.. $9 can of high heat engine paint works better.
Yes C is supposedly rated to 1800F but we are not taking about anything over 450F like with a header or my oven outside door. So STORMTROOPER WHITE Item: H-297 cant handle any thing over cure temp without discoloring! Not very Hi performance and not even as good as engine paint. @@zaakkriel1574
If I had an oven needed to perform the out gassing step, I wouldn't be using C series to start with. Thought the point of C series was for people who don't have the luxury of a large oven?
Our air cure products are thermally stable to higher temperatures than our other coating lines. If you can't outgas parts, thoroughly degreasing will be your best option.
Would it be a good idea to cerakote a aircooled engine cylinder barrel? It has been suggested on many forums here in UK but the concept explained (referring to exhausts) makes me think otherwise?
Negative ghost rider... cylinders need the honing marks to reduce friction and allow something for oil to cling to. Without the honing marks you have an oil burning engine that probably runs hotter than it should due to extra friction and blowby and in need of a rebuild.
That's assuming you're talking about the cylinder sleeves where the piston goes. If you're talking about the outside where the cooling fins are, that would be a negative. The one place inside the engine that it could possibly help might be the inside of the exhaust runner. Theoretically it should help block some of the heat from being absorbed into the head from the exhaust runner helping the engine to run cooler. I suppose if you did it in the intake runner it might help keep the fresh air coming in cooler. The cooler the air/fuel the denser the charge.
I just had a thunderheader exhaust coated by Precision Powdercoat Melbourne, FL, with glacier black and it bubbled up and started flaking off around the high heat areas of the upper header. I brought it back and they sandblasted it again and coated it again. Less than 100 miles now and its worse than the first time... I'm really disappointed with the experience. I don't know if its the preparation or the fact that its a single wall pipe, or a bad batch of cerakote. I will have to sand it down myself and use bbq paint, I'm not going through this again.
I normally powder coat. but thought of doing cerakote so I spent 700 on my first order.. now wishing I hadn't. I bought the largest bottle of the C-7600 not included in the initial 700 I spent. because a previous customer wanted me to spray there turbo stuff... lol yeah, first hot side header manifold I did it flaked right off during the first 15 min of a new engine build.. I thought I learned why. because it was sprayed on to heavy.. so I just did a brand new intake manifold.. went super light on the application and just notice from curing over night. One small flake came off.. I'm done with cerakote .... my advise.. do not pay a powder coater to spray cerakote..
Cerakote still has a procedure to go through for appropriate breaking in of the coating- first of all the air cure cerakote applied to an appropriately prepped surface needs to be left to cure for 5 days before the part is mounted back onto wherever it goes, 2nd it needs to be run through a couple heat cycles on whatever vehicle or motorcycle left at idle first for 15min, allow to cool, then for an hour and allow to cool, repeat the hour heat cycle 2- 3 more times in normal, mild driving/ riding after a 15min idle warm-up then while driving/ riding do not do any sort of high performance or high Rev with your car/ bike- after the 45min- 1hr drive/ ride and allowing to completely cool for 2- 3 cycles then you'll be good to go- this should never be done on a fresh build or rebuild due to excessive heat output- use different parts for engine breaking in or wait to coat until after break in procedure is completed for fresh engine build/ rebuild. If done as stated correctly then you have yourself a long lasting durable coating- Cerakote is an amazing product if the customer and applicator are educated
@@adambuscemi7893 Adam - can you provide one or more references? Also, does this "break-in" method apply only to a specific series of Cerakote or all of their products?
We don't offer Cerakote application services, but we have certified applicators all over the world. You can check out our map to find a certified applicator near you www.cerakote.com/find-applicator
Lousy product for exhaust headers... had this applied to my American Racing Headers LTs and it does look beautiful... however, it's about as resilient as dry erase markers. If any tool comes in contact with the finish or it rubs against anything during installation that "coating" comes right off.
![[FULL EP.14] เซียนหรั่ง สอน มาร์ชจุ จับปูนา ฮากระจาย | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M8mPjd_T2lo/mqdefault.jpg)
Most manufacturer instructional videos are garbage and super boring, this was actually awesome. Thank you.
Awesome. I’ve got some coming. Glacier Black for the head pipes. And Gloss Black for the heat shields. Josh told me I can even polish it up some more with OOO steel wool. Thanks. I’m taking a 2020 Kawasaki Z900RS cafe pipe and attempting to replicate a 82 Z1000 Eddie Lawson Kerker pipe for it. In 82 it was Black Chrome. My plater here said they didn’t think the plating would stick to the stainless exhaust on the Z,s pipes. Here we go. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks again to you for stellar customer service. 👍😁
Glacier black and silver are some of my favorite colors. I'm gonna try a few others
I've used Cerakote for quite a few parts of my Ironhead Sportster engine rebuild. I love how it looks and I am really looking forward to the long lasting protection for the cast iron heads and cylinders.
Here in Lillehammer Norway we have done quite a lot of turbo housings and headers for highly tuned cars, we use 100 gallon ultrasonic tanks for decreasing , and wet blasting (vapour honing) witk alu oxide besides that we follow the cerakote "rules" and we have really good experiences with the c-7600 and other high temp colors.
we tested this on a turbo housing on a 2ltr (or 122 cu inch) Ford Cosworth delivering 580 horsepower while on the testbench , 20 gallon of fuel was used under optimizing the fuel and ignition
the c-7600 looked like new after that .
the max temp is 1800Fah or 980 Celsius , but if a multiple carburettor engine (motorbikes) runs extremely lean on one cylinder the temp can easally reach higher temps destroying first the coating and later the exhaust valve/s ,-)
Are these like jet hot coat ?
Any smoke or smell at 500 Deg C for 5mins? coverage per 500ml? Looking to use in a flat MS 1mm thick sheet for a heating application. Thank you
I have a muffler with cerakote coating. I want to paint another color of cerakote and I wanted to ask, do I need to remove the old ceracote or is it possible to paint over that cerakote coating?
Can you apply another c-series on top of this? To create a design, on name?
What size tip for c series?
Ever try on 2 stroke exhaust chamber?
Is it possible to cure in oven to accelerate the process after painting please ? thx !
What recommendations do yall have for the collector where all four tunes meet on the inside radius of each…. I have your fun and everything else and was just coating a set of looks as well…. Pipes are so tight together cannot get coating all the way down in there. It’s barely noticeable but def there
Be careful with exceeding the cure temp because the color will change. I used STORMTROOPER WHITE Item: H-297 on the outside trim of a gas wall oven door and it turned coffee brown quickly. FYI we keep a whitish dish towel on the oven door no problem..
$9 can of high heat engine paint works better.
H-Series is not a high temp coating. You should use normal C-Series or the Glacier Series.
Yes C is supposedly rated to 1800F but we are not taking about anything over 450F like with a header or my oven outside door. So STORMTROOPER WHITE Item: H-297 cant handle any thing over cure temp without discoloring! Not very Hi performance and not even as good as engine paint. @@zaakkriel1574
If I had an oven needed to perform the out gassing step, I wouldn't be using C series to start with. Thought the point of C series was for people who don't have the luxury of a large oven?
Our air cure products are thermally stable to higher temperatures than our other coating lines. If you can't outgas parts, thoroughly degreasing will be your best option.
Could you apply it with a paint brush or a sponge brush ?
👍👍👍💪
Video says 80 grit blast but app guide says 100?! Which is better?!
What about coating the insides?
Would it be a good idea to cerakote a aircooled engine cylinder barrel? It has been suggested on many forums here in UK but the concept explained (referring to exhausts) makes me think otherwise?
Negative ghost rider... cylinders need the honing marks to reduce friction and allow something for oil to cling to. Without the honing marks you have an oil burning engine that probably runs hotter than it should due to extra friction and blowby and in need of a rebuild.
That's assuming you're talking about the cylinder sleeves where the piston goes. If you're talking about the outside where the cooling fins are, that would be a negative. The one place inside the engine that it could possibly help might be the inside of the exhaust runner. Theoretically it should help block some of the heat from being absorbed into the head from the exhaust runner helping the engine to run cooler. I suppose if you did it in the intake runner it might help keep the fresh air coming in cooler. The cooler the air/fuel the denser the charge.
About how many ounces did it take for the set of headers?
Good question
So you do not have to bake it in oven to cure cerakote?
Yes you can
This us air dry
I just had a thunderheader exhaust coated by Precision Powdercoat Melbourne, FL, with glacier black and it bubbled up and started flaking off around the high heat areas of the upper header. I brought it back and they sandblasted it again and coated it again. Less than 100 miles now and its worse than the first time... I'm really disappointed with the experience. I don't know if its the preparation or the fact that its a single wall pipe, or a bad batch of cerakote. I will have to sand it down myself and use bbq paint, I'm not going through this again.
I normally powder coat. but thought of doing cerakote so I spent 700 on my first order.. now wishing I hadn't. I bought the largest bottle of the C-7600 not included in the initial 700 I spent. because a previous customer wanted me to spray there turbo stuff... lol yeah, first hot side header manifold I did it flaked right off during the first 15 min of a new engine build.. I thought I learned why. because it was sprayed on to heavy.. so I just did a brand new intake manifold.. went super light on the application and just notice from curing over night. One small flake came off.. I'm done with cerakote .... my advise.. do not pay a powder coater to spray cerakote..
Cerakote still has a procedure to go through for appropriate breaking in of the coating- first of all the air cure cerakote applied to an appropriately prepped surface needs to be left to cure for 5 days before the part is mounted back onto wherever it goes, 2nd it needs to be run through a couple heat cycles on whatever vehicle or motorcycle left at idle first for 15min, allow to cool, then for an hour and allow to cool, repeat the hour heat cycle 2- 3 more times in normal, mild driving/ riding after a 15min idle warm-up then while driving/ riding do not do any sort of high performance or high Rev with your car/ bike- after the 45min- 1hr drive/ ride and allowing to completely cool for 2- 3 cycles then you'll be good to go- this should never be done on a fresh build or rebuild due to excessive heat output- use different parts for engine breaking in or wait to coat until after break in procedure is completed for fresh engine build/ rebuild. If done as stated correctly then you have yourself a long lasting durable coating- Cerakote is an amazing product if the customer and applicator are educated
@@adambuscemi7893 Adam - can you provide one or more references? Also, does this "break-in" method apply only to a specific series of Cerakote or all of their products?
Imagine if they made this in aerosol spray
Can I send in my exhaust manifold?
We don't offer Cerakote application services, but we have certified applicators all over the world. You can check out our map to find a certified applicator near you www.cerakote.com/find-applicator
I think there must be alot of missed spots between the pipes. That header set had lots of gnarly twists
Lousy product for exhaust headers... had this applied to my American Racing Headers LTs and it does look beautiful... however, it's about as resilient as dry erase markers. If any tool comes in contact with the finish or it rubs against anything during installation that "coating" comes right off.
This stuff is junk. Like others have mentioned, it flakes off after the first heat cycle.
Video didn't address coating INSIDE headers.
Because you can't do it
Why would you want a high emissive coating on your header? You would want a low emissive to maintain the heat inside of the header.