You need to line the jaw face with "crubber" (cork-infused rubber) gasket material. Then you don't have to clamp nearly as hard to hold the workpiece. :)
That’s a great tip. I have since I made the video lined the outer jaw with leather. That really helped the grip. I have also removed the inner jaw. So it is now flush mounted. Cheers and thanks for watching and commenting.
That’s a really good idea. And definitly on the to-do list. I was thinking about turning one on the lathe. Or perhaps make it by gluing up up the head. What do tou think?
It might just be my opinion, but I think you'd have a way easier time with those spade bits if you had them spinning before making contact with the wood. It's just a lot more leverage than you're used to with a regular bit.
That's the proper thing mate! Very impressive. Incidentally: the little clip thingummybob is called a circlip, presumably because it's (almost) circular, and yes, I too have shot more than a dozen of them into outer space; the 'skewing' of a vice/vise is called racking and I suppose that's why the Moxon vice was invented. Some folks keep a stack of plywood scraps around to make a sort of variable thickness spacer for the empty side. Anyway, that was a great video, very enjoyable. Thanks mate, love to you both, hope you're enjoying your back yard breakfast nook in the summer weather!
Thanks for the info Mark! I really didn't feel like spending a lot of time looking for the circlip :D Even though I am trying my best to light up the shop for videos, the lighting is stil la bit of an issue. I might have to go for some 5k kelvin led panels at some time. Oh, and I just put another base coat on the gate I made in the back yard today. We are painting tomorrow. Mrs. Nomad chose a Terracotta/Mustard color. Thanks for checking in, mate! Love to you and yours.
@@NomadMakes You could simply give the pine jaw a face of hardwood, or high quality birch plywood for durability. It's also not a bad idea to consider rubberized cork for grip and protection.
Think your gonna find the only wood which will work in anyway is going to be 36mm thick plywood, but may still need to be laminated doubled. (Without the metal backing, I just can’t really believe in it, but am amazed it didn’t come with anything else) V poor from Axminster!
It worked out really well on the second try. And the product is exactly as described. Perhaps you are confusing this with another type of vise? The metal backing sounds like the quick release vise.
@@NomadMakes give it time, then your gonna see> clamping with the grain parallel ed, with the vice is the issue. As you Ve already noted the screws had to be replaced with bolts, but take yourself back to where the first piece broke & that’s where this piece will also break. (Doubling the thickness might make it a bit stronger 💪 but it’s still the same floored engineering of the wood which will cause its demise. )
@@NomadMakes yes, then your going to get the benefit of the cross grain, if there is anything to improve the whole design. (It’s the distance of unsupported cantilever from above the vice main screw which is the issue, which you’ll note is particularly exasperated with small pieces clamped at the very top…)
Thanks for this video, I’m installing a similar model, so it’s useful to see what pitfalls, snags, “design features”, or outright “makers variance” (aka mistakes) you encountered, if only to see if i can find them all in my own install too, avoiding them would be no fun after all! I had planned on using plywood for the jaws, but it’s clear that something more substantial is required. Also the brass rubbing method makes so much more sense than trying to measure up, the numbers are irrelevant, so long as the holes are in the right place. You’re not alone with forstner bit issues by the way! 😂
I’m glad you found the video helpful. And as much as I got by just clamping to the edge of my bench, man having this vice is so great. I’ve seen plywood used on the quick release vices. But I believe they are partly metal backed. But why not try? You could double it up. And by the way, I have since the video gone for a flush mounted solution. I simply removed the inner jaw. And I haven’t looked back. Thanks for commenting and good luck with your build. Cheers.
I also use an inline table for cross cuts, but yours is quite dangerous because it has no stop for the saw blade when it comes out. It is enough to put some hard chip there, where the travel of the wheel ends without going freely to the front of the table. There is no need for the saw blade to extend beyond the inserted table, it does not cut anything further anyway. But it is safe. Otherwise well.
Hi Ivan! Do you mean the crosscut sled? Yes, I never made a block to cover the blade on that sled. But when I built the new sled I added a block to cover the blade exiting the sled. th-cam.com/video/ydnlyrxU2dA/w-d-xo.html I think it mostly works as a physical reminder of where not to put your hands. And thank you for your concern for my safety. Cheers and thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Bernie! Cool to hear! Changes I have made since this video is that the vice is now flush mounted. Meaning I have removed the inner jaw. This helps a lot for clamping longer stock. And I have glued leather to the inside face of the outer jaw. That gave the vice that extra friction it needed for a really good grip.
Yeah. I had that innen jaw for a while, but never used the benefits of it - and always had to keep a spacer block on hand to clamp along the bench Let me know how it works out for you.
it would have helped (you) a lot, reading the manual of the vice. RTF: read the fucking manual. 🤣 It is clearly mentioned: Jaw minium 30 mm, optimum 50 mm.
@kfurt7007 I have removed it completely. So, now I am using the vise flush mounted. I did it because I found myself clamping to the bench as well a lot. And I have glued leather to the front jaw for friction. Works a charm ;-)
@kfurt7007 the vise looks heavier? Well anyway, think you made a good choice. I used to just clamp to the bench, but man I use this vise so much. It is one of my most used tools - if you can call it that 🤷♂️
Thanks for letting us know about the mistakes 👍🏻
Glad you liked it Craig! Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers.
If you let them know about the missing Acethey will not lose as much money at your gambling house!!😊goodluck
It’s my secret ;-)
Seiko SKX009 ? I like a lot. Oh, this is a great install video too.
Yeah! It’s the original J-version on a bond style zulu strap. It’s my beater and daily driver :-) Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers.
Maybe you have the speed of the drill set to high for the drill bit you are using.
Do you mean the forstner bits or the paddle bits?
FYI: it is spelled VISE not Vice. And thanks for the video.
Thanks for the tip! And thanks for watching ;-)
Thanks for sharing this. I've learnt a lot. Been thinking of buying one of these. Wasn't too sure as to how to fit it. Very helpful.
Thanks for watching. I am glad you liked the video. The instruction manual, while not excellent, was quite good.
Cheers.
You need to line the jaw face with "crubber" (cork-infused rubber) gasket material. Then you don't have to clamp nearly as hard to hold the workpiece. :)
That’s a great tip. I have since I made the video lined the outer jaw with leather. That really helped the grip. I have also removed the inner jaw. So it is now flush mounted. Cheers and thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi mate great video - do you have plans to drill the vice to take bench dogs?
Hi! I have considered it, but haven’t felt the need so far.
You should make yourself a wood mallet for knocking loose the wedges on your bench dogs. Plus it's fun to make.
That’s a really good idea. And definitly on the to-do list. I was thinking about turning one on the lathe. Or perhaps make it by gluing up up the head. What do tou think?
It might just be my opinion, but I think you'd have a way easier time with those spade bits if you had them spinning before making contact with the wood. It's just a lot more leverage than you're used to with a regular bit.
Thanks for the tip mate! I will keep that in mind. And thanks for watching and commenting.
Yeah, full speed before contact!
Seems I have to try it out :-)
That's the proper thing mate! Very impressive. Incidentally: the little clip thingummybob is called a circlip, presumably because it's (almost) circular, and yes, I too have shot more than a dozen of them into outer space; the 'skewing' of a vice/vise is called racking and I suppose that's why the Moxon vice was invented. Some folks keep a stack of plywood scraps around to make a sort of variable thickness spacer for the empty side. Anyway, that was a great video, very enjoyable. Thanks mate, love to you both, hope you're enjoying your back yard breakfast nook in the summer weather!
Thanks for the info Mark! I really didn't feel like spending a lot of time looking for the circlip :D Even though I am trying my best to light up the shop for videos, the lighting is stil la bit of an issue. I might have to go for some 5k kelvin led panels at some time.
Oh, and I just put another base coat on the gate I made in the back yard today. We are painting tomorrow. Mrs. Nomad chose a Terracotta/Mustard color.
Thanks for checking in, mate! Love to you and yours.
That is what you call a vice ,enjoy it Darth Vader xD
Thank you :D And thanks for checking in. Cheers.
I don’t think pine wood is good choice for the jaw.
You may be right in that. It has worked well for a few years now, but it gets nicks easily. What do you suggest?
@@NomadMakes Some kinds of hard wood.
I will probably use some white oak when this one needs replacing.
@@NomadMakes You could simply give the pine jaw a face of hardwood, or high quality birch plywood for durability. It's also not a bad idea to consider rubberized cork for grip and protection.
Good tips! I’ve been considering routing a rebate on the top edge and gluing in a piece of oak.
Think your gonna find the only wood which will work in anyway is going to be 36mm thick plywood, but may still need to be laminated doubled.
(Without the metal backing, I just can’t really believe in it, but am amazed it didn’t come with anything else)
V poor from Axminster!
It worked out really well on the second try. And the product is exactly as described. Perhaps you are confusing this with another type of vise? The metal backing sounds like the quick release vise.
@@NomadMakes give it time, then your gonna see> clamping with the grain parallel ed, with the vice is the issue.
As you Ve already noted the screws had to be replaced with bolts, but take yourself back to where the first piece broke & that’s where this piece will also break. (Doubling the thickness might make it a bit stronger 💪 but it’s still the same floored engineering of the wood which will cause its demise. )
Yeah. If and when it breaks I will try another solution. What do you suggest? Some kind of hardwood?
@@NomadMakes yes, then your going to get the benefit of the cross grain, if there is anything to improve the whole design.
(It’s the distance of unsupported cantilever from above the vice main screw which is the issue, which you’ll note is particularly exasperated with small pieces clamped at the very top…)
@@NomadMakes sure, something like oak, which is much tightly grained & is a all round stronger timber
Thanks for this video, I’m installing a similar model, so it’s useful to see what pitfalls, snags, “design features”, or outright “makers variance” (aka mistakes) you encountered, if only to see if i can find them all in my own install too, avoiding them would be no fun after all!
I had planned on using plywood for the jaws, but it’s clear that something more substantial is required.
Also the brass rubbing method makes so much more sense than trying to measure up, the numbers are irrelevant, so long as the holes are in the right place.
You’re not alone with forstner bit issues by the way! 😂
I’m glad you found the video helpful. And as much as I got by just clamping to the edge of my bench, man having this vice is so great. I’ve seen plywood used on the quick release vices. But I believe they are partly metal backed. But why not try? You could double it up.
And by the way, I have since the video gone for a flush mounted solution. I simply removed the inner jaw. And I haven’t looked back.
Thanks for commenting and good luck with your build. Cheers.
Rất tuyệt và sáng tạo anh bạn
Thank you! I am glad you liked the video :D Cool to have viewvers from all over the world ;-)
I also use an inline table for cross cuts, but yours is quite dangerous because it has no stop for the saw blade when it comes out. It is enough to put some hard chip there, where the travel of the wheel ends without going freely to the front of the table. There is no need for the saw blade to extend beyond the inserted table, it does not cut anything further anyway. But it is safe. Otherwise well.
Hi Ivan!
Do you mean the crosscut sled? Yes, I never made a block to cover the blade on that sled. But when I built the new sled I added a block to cover the blade exiting the sled. th-cam.com/video/ydnlyrxU2dA/w-d-xo.html
I think it mostly works as a physical reminder of where not to put your hands.
And thank you for your concern for my safety.
Cheers and thanks for watching and commenting.
Great install. I'm about to install one, myself. Heia Norge from down under
Hi Bernie! Cool to hear! Changes I have made since this video is that the vice is now flush mounted. Meaning I have removed the inner jaw. This helps a lot for clamping longer stock. And I have glued leather to the inside face of the outer jaw. That gave the vice that extra friction it needed for a really good grip.
@@NomadMakes Thanks for the reply I was thinking of flush mounting for the exact reason you did. Leather or Cork is an option for the outer jaw
Yeah. I had that innen jaw for a while, but never used the benefits of it - and always had to keep a spacer block on hand to clamp along the bench
Let me know how it works out for you.
Thanks so much learned a lot.
I am glad it helped :-)
it would have helped (you) a lot, reading the manual of the vice. RTF: read the fucking manual. 🤣
It is clearly mentioned: Jaw minium 30 mm, optimum 50 mm.
That would have taken away all the excitement ;-) And I just may have read the manual and promptly ignored it 😱
@@NomadMakes by the way: it‘s meant for both jaws. You can still exchange the other one too. Or simply ignore it. 🤣
@kfurt7007 I have removed it completely. So, now I am using the vise flush mounted. I did it because I found myself clamping to the bench as well a lot. And I have glued leather to the front jaw for friction. Works a charm ;-)
@@NomadMakes I am planning to mount exactly this vice to my workbench. But mine looks a bit heavier than yours.
@kfurt7007 the vise looks heavier? Well anyway, think you made a good choice. I used to just clamp to the bench, but man I use this vise so much. It is one of my most used tools - if you can call it that 🤷♂️