Final video in the 5 part series, we end up with bodies! The series is detailing every step of the process from matchbox car to multiple resin copies for running on slot cars..
Nice tutorial, you can use your pressure pot to degas the rubber, 90 minute pot life is good. If you need to DIY a vacuum chamber, use and old refrigerator compressor.
Dude, congratulations on the tutorial, it will help a lot in my attempts to make a body mold of an F1 for 440x2 chassis and some AFX and MG, I'll try here. I'm only in doubt as to how to make the part of the body's fittings on the chassis, so that they can be drawn well in the silicone mold and be right in the resin mold, and how to undock the mold without harming it.
You need to suck the air out of the resin it's self then pour, or cobble up a vibrating table ( a vibrating sander with a piece of plywood to act as a table). Pour then vibrate the entire mold. Hope this helps with air bubbles.
Thanks Steve, yes you should. My vacuum setup was at my buddies and I was anxious to get the project off the ground. A learning moment for all my viewers I guess!
Use oil based paint for coloring your cast. It works way better. There is no need to use as much of the mold material as you are using. About as much as your first ledge under your cast is all that is needed 1/4 to 3/8" all around works for H.O. It won't distort in a mold box and it is easier to demold that way.
Thanks Tom!! Just moved house so all this is packed away... Hopefully the next project comes out better, but I was glad to share my process with everyone none the less!
@@srmaietta You did a good job. It can get expensive real quick, if you go the pressure pot or vacuum degasser route. You can do pretty well without all of that if you paint the cast instead of trying to add the color into the cast. That way you can fill bubble holes and other imperfections before you color it.
If you brush on a couple of layers of silicone first you can eliminate the air bubbles, another way is to pour the silicone in layers [ about 5mm] This reduces the distance the air has to travel to release.
Awesome tutorial, thanks for taking the time. I've been looking for just such one for slot car bodies also.
I realize I'm pretty randomly asking but do anyone know a good site to watch newly released movies online?
@Kristopher Saul i would suggest FlixZone. Just google for it :)
@@kylokingsley1299 That's a scam site. Stay away from that one.
Nice tutorial, you can use your pressure pot to degas the rubber, 90 minute pot life is good.
If you need to DIY a vacuum chamber, use and old refrigerator compressor.
Wow great job!
Dude, congratulations on the tutorial, it will help a lot in my attempts to make a body mold of an F1 for 440x2 chassis and some AFX and MG, I'll try here. I'm only in doubt as to how to make the part of the body's fittings on the chassis, so that they can be drawn well in the silicone mold and be right in the resin mold, and how to undock the mold without harming it.
perhaps make those parts separately and glue them inside the body cast? That way you have a lot less issues with the overhanging body mounts.
You need to suck the air out of the resin it's self then pour, or cobble up a vibrating table ( a vibrating sander with a piece of plywood to act as a table). Pour then vibrate the entire mold. Hope this helps with air bubbles.
Thanks Steve, yes you should. My vacuum setup was at my buddies and I was anxious to get the project off the ground. A learning moment for all my viewers I guess!
Excellent series! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!! I hope to make a few more molds, just moved house and the workshop (and slotcar stuff) is in boxes all over the place..
Use oil based paint for coloring your cast. It works way better. There is no need to use as much of the mold material as you are using. About as much as your first ledge under your cast is all that is needed 1/4 to 3/8" all around works for H.O. It won't distort in a mold box and it is easier to demold that way.
Thanks Tom!! Just moved house so all this is packed away... Hopefully the next project comes out better, but I was glad to share my process with everyone none the less!
@@srmaietta You did a good job. It can get expensive real quick, if you go the pressure pot or vacuum degasser route. You can do pretty well without all of that if you paint the cast instead of trying to add the color into the cast. That way you can fill bubble holes and other imperfections before you color it.
If you brush on a couple of layers of silicone first you can eliminate the air bubbles, another way is to pour the silicone in layers [ about 5mm] This reduces the distance the air has to travel to release.