We went for a vaulted ceiling in our lean to extension with a massive Velux to avoid light loss. I bet it's really dark in their main living room now they've lost those patio doors. Definitely something to consider on a build like that.
Evening guys love the content you put out and enjoy watching. Just a quick one if I may I noticed you didn’t take the cavity insulation all the way up to the underside of your roof deck to meet the roof insulation, therefore creating a cold spot down both sides. As I’m sure you know Any moisture in the extension will go to the cold spots and condense. I’m not trying to be rude or put you guys down as the work you do is great just thought I would point that out.
Came to mention the same thing, would be interested to see how you manage to seal after with insulation as it looks like a closed void. Look forward to the next video. Just coming to the end of our very first warm roof installation, it’s been an epic build, wish we’d videoed it all to share to our channel. It’s been months of work 🤯
@@mrabuilders6723 I didn't see any insulation fitted in the time-lapse so how did you get it in? Above wall cavity should be topped up from outside to the underside of the boards to the edge of the inner wall
@@mrabuilders6723 This i've got to see, as the boards clearly went down and were fixed with no insulation between wall / cavity and deck. Mostly i've been impressed with attention to detail and your 'unconventional' solutions due to the things that you are faced with but increasing thermal regs are a fact of life and for others that query 'why' on a little extension - you can't improve the whole building by enlarging its thermal envelope and then using pish poor insulation!
@@kawazukisoddbits2717 " the boards clearly went down and were fixed with no insulation between wall / cavity and deck" - so it seems - i'm doing mine in a few weeks but internal insulation on the walls. havent calculated how thick yet....
@@DICEGEORGE If its done to comply with BR's, it'll be scary how thick you'll need! You lose a lot of room area insulating internally these days. I only use it in minimal thicknesses to prevent cold bridges at window reveals and over timber framed walls where a bridge occurs at the studs!
Another top job rich,i only put noggins in to prevent timber twisting,not for plasterboards, joists set at 400 centre for them lads 👍now got into the habit of doing firings at 90 degree to joists so you get cross ventilation in roof space,warm/cold roof now adays think its the moisture content in the building more than thermal heat causing issues,of course , could be wrong 😢
Going to watch that vid you did about firring strips this week. Although ive done the flat roof already will be worth me watching incase i have to do them on my own might pick up a few things from rich. Top job as always lads, find these very helpful and informative. Have a good week chaps
Great project. It takes a few moments to convert visually the cut size of the wood with converting metric to standard but it's basically the same construction methods whether in the United Kingdom or the U.S.
Mine's temporarily covered with the sheet of EPDM which will eventually be the cover, battens screwed though the top edge to the house, not a gap like here, i'mtaking it on and off most days, it's worked over months !
Just watching you warm roof video, I just noticed that you haven’t put any insulation at the front and sides of the roof above the cavity to stop cold bridging from the outer skin? I’ve only just come across your channel and I’m enjoying what I’ve seen so far 👍
Thanks Adam for this detailed information. I hope you don't mind me ask. I'm currently building a flat roof of my own( first time). I hope you don't mind me ask. Can that timber sitting on top of the brickwork at (15:16) be fixed to the brick rather than the ply box you mentioned? Many thanks.
Looking good guys. DIYing my own furring strips over 4.8m was a challenge with the circular saw but as you say so much cheaper than buying them. I couldn’t quite see but did you use T&G OSB on the roof? Also right at end of the vid I noticed the outsider edge of the OSB on the furring seemed to be not square with the furring? Might just have been optical illusion with the camera angle.
It wasn’t an illusion mate it was very slightly out of square towards the back of the roof but this ply is to sit the insulation on so as much as it kept me awake for a couple of nights it’s no great shakes 😉👍🏻
Good idea to cut your own furring strips and could just cut the top of the rafters to meet the fall if sized to allow. Only issue with cutting to 1:80 is that you aren't allowing for deflection which will take the fall beyond the 1:80 maximum limit.
I can agree with you about defection but a C16 over 2.8m isn’t going to deflect to the extent that it becomes an issue. Although I have mentioned 1:80 over 3m I’ve done the fall 50mm which exceeds 1:80 so I’m happy it will be perfectly fine. 👍🏻
Great video, out if interest. With the warm roof whats the overall height of the extension including 150mm below dpc? Also what's the ceiling height internal?
Doing well. Videos r great. Since uve been in the building trade for a while , do u need to render cement blocks if on the external leaf or can u leave them as they are. I would like to leave them as they are on my out house but am afraid the wall may absorb water from rain etc or do I not need to worry about it..?
Depends on the block used - old style 'breeze block' / clinker type has to be rendered, a Celcon / Thermalite type ltwt. thermal block doesn't require render for waterproofing as they are similar to foamed insulation - full of air bubbles but not porous so water won't soak through - only through the joints. A Sandtex paint should seal sufficiently if budget choice is required!
Hi Rich, how come on the row of noggins nearest the house the end ones were the same as the joists width, and the others narrower. Was it to get in to fit the coach screws ?
It wasn’t meant to be rude so I apologise but I was just saying that if watching every bit of wood or brick installed isn’t the type of video you enjoy watching it’s what we do and have been asked to do in comments over the time we’ve been operating as a channel so we are trying to accommodate it with our content. 👍🏻
If you watch Micks video he clearly state some of your viewers want to see more bricks and more bits of wood placed, and you’re right I do have more options and the one I have chosen is to unsubscribe you, very rude
What about straps holding plate down? I would have continued inner double timbers through to outer skin of blocks/ brick removing weatherboard running decking back to existing house.
Hello mate, hope you're well. As stated this is a warm deck, so there is no cross ventilation. Any ventilation to the roof at all will be extremely detrimental. Where cross ventilation is vital is cold deck roofs which are a completely different beast but rest assured we have videos on those too so feel free to go through our back catalogue! Appreciate the comment, take care.
We went for a vaulted ceiling in our lean to extension with a massive Velux to avoid light loss. I bet it's really dark in their main living room now they've lost those patio doors. Definitely something to consider on a build like that.
Evening guys love the content you put out and enjoy watching. Just a quick one if I may I noticed you didn’t take the cavity insulation all the way up to the underside of your roof deck to meet the roof insulation, therefore creating a cold spot down both sides. As I’m sure you know Any moisture in the extension will go to the cold spots and condense. I’m not trying to be rude or put you guys down as the work you do is great just thought I would point that out.
We seal the external after with insulation which will be shown. 👍🏻
Came to mention the same thing, would be interested to see how you manage to seal after with insulation as it looks like a closed void.
Look forward to the next video. Just coming to the end of our very first warm roof installation, it’s been an epic build, wish we’d videoed it all to share to our channel. It’s been months of work 🤯
Rich, I would have put a bit of soft insulation on top of the side wall cavity’s could be a bit of cold bridging there.
Great video gents.
We did mate and your correct about cold bridging. We will show it in a future episode 👍🏻
@@mrabuilders6723 I didn't see any insulation fitted in the time-lapse so how did you get it in? Above wall cavity should be topped up from outside to the underside of the boards to the edge of the inner wall
@@mrabuilders6723 This i've got to see, as the boards clearly went down and were fixed with no insulation between wall / cavity and deck. Mostly i've been impressed with attention to detail and your 'unconventional' solutions due to the things that you are faced with but increasing thermal regs are a fact of life and for others that query 'why' on a little extension - you can't improve the whole building by enlarging its thermal envelope and then using pish poor insulation!
@@kawazukisoddbits2717 " the boards clearly went down and were fixed with no insulation between wall / cavity and deck" - so it seems - i'm doing mine in a few weeks but internal insulation on the walls. havent calculated how thick yet....
@@DICEGEORGE If its done to comply with BR's, it'll be scary how thick you'll need! You lose a lot of room area insulating internally these days. I only use it in minimal thicknesses to prevent cold bridges at window reveals and over timber framed walls where a bridge occurs at the studs!
The side timbers sitting on top of external leaf should have a DPC protection between to stop dry rot
love the attention to detail boys
Another top job rich,i only put noggins in to prevent timber twisting,not for plasterboards, joists set at 400 centre for them lads 👍now got into the habit of doing firings at 90 degree to joists so you get cross ventilation in roof space,warm/cold roof now adays think its the moisture content in the building more than thermal heat causing issues,of course , could be wrong 😢
Going to watch that vid you did about firring strips this week. Although ive done the flat roof already will be worth me watching incase i have to do them on my own might pick up a few things from rich.
Top job as always lads, find these very helpful and informative. Have a good week chaps
Cheers James. We're always here for you pal, hopefully see you soon.
Great project. It takes a few moments to convert visually the cut size of the wood with converting metric to standard but it's basically the same construction methods whether in the United Kingdom or the U.S.
Bootiful Richy & mick
You've got a good mate there with Mick.
Don't you have cold bridging in the corners? there is an air gap between the roof and wall insulation.
Mine's temporarily covered with the sheet of EPDM which will eventually be the cover, battens screwed though the top edge to the house, not a gap like here, i'mtaking it on and off most days, it's worked over months !
great bit of editing and time lapse
Haha sandwich Thursday. 👍
We have Fat day Friday. 😊
I set out at 16 inch centres for board if you go 600 you should nog board joints
Just watching you warm roof video, I just noticed that you haven’t put any insulation at the front and sides of the roof above the cavity to stop cold bridging from the outer skin?
I’ve only just come across your channel and I’m enjoying what I’ve seen so far 👍
Thanks Adam for this detailed information. I hope you don't mind me ask. I'm currently building a flat roof of my own( first time). I hope you don't mind me ask. Can that timber sitting on top of the brickwork at (15:16) be fixed to the brick rather than the ply box you mentioned? Many thanks.
Looking good guys. DIYing my own furring strips over 4.8m was a challenge with the circular saw but as you say so much cheaper than buying them. I couldn’t quite see but did you use T&G OSB on the roof? Also right at end of the vid I noticed the outsider edge of the OSB on the furring seemed to be not square with the furring? Might just have been optical illusion with the camera angle.
It wasn’t an illusion mate it was very slightly out of square towards the back of the roof but this ply is to sit the insulation on so as much as it kept me awake for a couple of nights it’s no great shakes 😉👍🏻
Good idea to cut your own furring strips and could just cut the top of the rafters to meet the fall if sized to allow.
Only issue with cutting to 1:80 is that you aren't allowing for deflection which will take the fall beyond the 1:80 maximum limit.
I can agree with you about defection but a C16 over 2.8m isn’t going to deflect to the extent that it becomes an issue. Although I have mentioned 1:80 over 3m I’ve done the fall 50mm which exceeds 1:80 so I’m happy it will be perfectly fine. 👍🏻
Great video, out if interest. With the warm roof whats the overall height of the extension including 150mm below dpc? Also what's the ceiling height internal?
Sorry mate we never measured the finished height but the internal was 2.4m so at a guess the finished height would have been approx 2850mm 👍🏻
Doing well. Videos r great. Since uve been in the building trade for a while , do u need to render cement blocks if on the external leaf or can u leave them as they are. I would like to leave them as they are on my out house but am afraid the wall may absorb water from rain etc or do I not need to worry about it..?
Render them
Depends on the block used - old style 'breeze block' / clinker type has to be rendered, a Celcon / Thermalite type ltwt. thermal block doesn't require render for waterproofing as they are similar to foamed insulation - full of air bubbles but not porous so water won't soak through - only through the joints. A Sandtex paint should seal sufficiently if budget choice is required!
Why don’t you carry the wall-plate on the other 2 sides and fix noggin’s from the rafters to the external side of the brickwork same as the front?
That could have been an option yes but we decided to do it this way and are very happy with the result. 👍🏻
Hi Rich, how come on the row of noggins nearest the house the end ones were the same as the joists width, and the others narrower. Was it to get in to fit the coach screws ?
The honest answer is Kev that row were an after thought to catch the board edge so we used what we had on site. 👍🏻
Can not believe some want to watch every brick and every piece of wood put in place????
Well Gary you either like it or you don't I'm afraid and there are other options available to you. I'll let you decide what they are.
@@mrabuilders6723 hmm a bit rude, I don’t mind what content you post your videos
It wasn’t meant to be rude so I apologise but I was just saying that if watching every bit of wood or brick installed isn’t the type of video you enjoy watching it’s what we do and have been asked to do in comments over the time we’ve been operating as a channel so we are trying to accommodate it with our content. 👍🏻
If you watch Micks video he clearly state some of your viewers want to see more bricks and more bits of wood placed, and you’re right I do have more options and the one I have chosen is to unsubscribe you, very rude
Will you be missed.?
thermataper from kingspan.
What about straps holding plate down? I would have continued inner double timbers through to outer skin of blocks/ brick removing weatherboard running decking back to existing house.
Sorry forgot to add what about cross ventilation?
Hello mate, hope you're well. As stated this is a warm deck, so there is no cross ventilation. Any ventilation to the roof at all will be extremely detrimental. Where cross ventilation is vital is cold deck roofs which are a completely different beast but rest assured we have videos on those too so feel free to go through our back catalogue! Appreciate the comment, take care.
Whats the music!!!!
We get it all off a site called epidemic. It’s got a lot of different genres. 👍🏻
Think the song is Venetian Blinds by Mattias Tell. Just went searching for it myself!
That certainly rings a bell. I don’t really check I just pick one I like and edit it in 👍🏻
Filling the Cavity with anything defeats the purpose of the Cavity