Okay, starting off the line (first few feet) is tunable by clutch springs. It's normal for clutch to slip a little but you don't want instant grab either. Tune the clutch to grab at the beginning of your pipes power band as a start. The contra springs job is to keep the grip on the belt and also upshifting/downshifting. Most people will be fine with stock or 1000 rpm contra. Only extreme drag race setups use stiffer contras. Red contras like in this vid are 2000 rpm, way too stiff (even for mid race and some race cylinders). Rollers counter balance the contra. By tuning roller weight, you can hold the rpm at the engines peak power thus you will have max acceleration all the way until variator maxes out. If you use stiff contra (red) it forces you to use heavier weights than needed. Heavy rollers counter stiff contra better than lighter rollers. Lighter rollers will not open variator fully because stiff contra is stronger (stuck in low gear). With heavy rollers, now your cvt is shifting from low to high too soon causing bog/lag. On top of all that, your belt is wearing out faster from friction and heat. Always start with softest contra spring so cvt runs with least amount of stress. Then the rollers needed will be lighter compared to what is used with a stiff contra spring. This is just my own opinion from the info I have gathered off the web.
Just so your next video isn’t “how to replace Zuma crankshaft” pull the rear pulley apart so you can push the belt down, that will give you slack on the variator so you are not tightening against the belt. That can give you a false sense of how tight it it, but will back off, destroying your crank splines and giving you the walk of shame. Also go with tighter clutch springs and ditch that pod filter. OEM airbox is best.
like @le slm said, if you use a heavier/stiffer clutch springs in the back ( the 3 little ones, not contra) it will allow more RPM before engaging and will get you to the powerband sooner. then you can mess with the varaitor weights to keep it in whatever RPM band matches your exhaust (I think you mentioned that in another one of your videos) love your videos by the way, keep it up!!
Did you change your clutch springs? Some are like 28mm and some are 32mm if you put longer ones in and supported to have shorter ones it does that little stall
Hi, I just installed ncy cvt kit and your video helped a lot. I don’t exactly know which ramp to put it in on the pulley because there’s three settings. I just put it in the wide one for now. It came with a yellow clutch spring and 7 gram pulleys. It’s stock right now. Originally it went nearly to 40 now I’m barely hitting 35. Any advice on what I can to do to set it up better?
I would say you aren't getting enough power. Your contra could be engaging to quickly before the trade off on the cvt. This is a fine tuning process that takes a lot of tries. I'm on try 15 with a combo of different contra, clutch springs and variator weights.
hi i know this is taken a year ago but i just have questions does the transmission share oil for the engine crankshaft? i only see drain plug for the transmission any help thanks..
I think your belt is not sitting as low as it could in the front on the variator, thats why it has bog at the start I suspect, also a yellow spring in the rear pulley would likely help
@@SmallEngineVelocity yeah someone else mentioned that the red is a very stiff spring so the bike will want to rev real hard to compress it. it might be causing low end bog and slow take off? I think your belt is sitting high in the variator maybe. do you have any shims in between the boss and fixed half by the nut side ( closest to the kick start side)? you want your belt to sit as close to bottom as possible on the front and high in the rear pulley (lowest gear for take off). could be the belt slipping also. many little things to take in account. the way I check my belt if its sitting low in the front var is that i take the fixed half and place it on the crank. if I can wiggle the belt and it bottoms out and sits on the drive boss that means that the belt wont be sitting low as it could be When you tighten down the nut. I then put a shim in it that will push the fixed have a little bit closer to the cvt cover. it helps the belt sit lower. be careful though, to much you get bog off the line as it will take a second or so for the engine to rev up and grab the belt as well. Lots of back and forth. I got the stage six shim set it has a ton of variety in thicknesses to experiment with.
This is probably the single most informative comment in the history of this channel. I have a yellow spring in the box of parts he gave me (previous owner) but it’s a pain to change the spring out. I think there may be some shims in there and I will take a look.
@@SmallEngineVelocity make your life real easy and buy a few different impact sockets to meet your needs and use your impact for removing the nut of the clutch and pulley. I picked up a 36mm socket I think it was the size of the nut on there. that has 1/2" female end with a 3/8" male chuck for the impact and it comes of real easy. just put both feet on either side or just hold one it with one had and pop it off. I normally just kneel down with right foot on one side and left hand on the other side of the clutch and brap that nut off. swap spring=profit hah! I think your tuning and setup are pretty close to bang on anyhow just little tweeks now I bet.
It’s surprisingly easier then I thought. No cam or timing chain to drag with , no TDC or anything. Just do well on your torque specs and use cooper spray in your base gasket to not loose or leak compression
That's the NCY Transmission kit? I run one of them also, made a huge difference with the NCY Pipe. Green clutch with Red Springs and the 1500 rpm contra.
well i've searched and searched and im hoping someone might be able to help on good ol youtube. my scooter will not run properly with all 6 weights. my mechanic installed only 3 of 6 and it seems to run pretty good now. could not make it up a hill with all 6. any ideas scooter people???
Also the red spring is the stiffest contra spring u can use on std rear-drive. Red springs are mostly used on high reving engines .i would try a yellow spring to see if it helps .
Okay, starting off the line (first few feet) is tunable by clutch springs. It's normal for clutch to slip a little but you don't want instant grab either. Tune the clutch to grab at the beginning of your pipes power band as a start. The contra springs job is to keep the grip on the belt and also upshifting/downshifting. Most people will be fine with stock or 1000 rpm contra. Only extreme drag race setups use stiffer contras. Red contras like in this vid are 2000 rpm, way too stiff (even for mid race and some race cylinders). Rollers counter balance the contra. By tuning roller weight, you can hold the rpm at the engines peak power thus you will have max acceleration all the way until variator maxes out. If you use stiff contra (red) it forces you to use heavier weights than needed. Heavy rollers counter stiff contra better than lighter rollers. Lighter rollers will not open variator fully because stiff contra is stronger (stuck in low gear). With heavy rollers, now your cvt is shifting from low to high too soon causing bog/lag. On top of all that, your belt is wearing out faster from friction and heat. Always start with softest contra spring so cvt runs with least amount of stress. Then the rollers needed will be lighter compared to what is used with a stiff contra spring. This is just my own opinion from the info I have gathered off the web.
My zuma does that to. That low end lag is funny
Bety interesting your video friend cause i have A Yamaha Zuma too.
:) small bits of money here and there , I have a overview video of what I made coming out next week
You sound a lil bit like Lester from GTA 5 xd nice video
Just so your next video isn’t “how to replace Zuma crankshaft” pull the rear pulley apart so you can push the belt down, that will give you slack on the variator so you are not tightening against the belt. That can give you a false sense of how tight it it, but will back off, destroying your crank splines and giving you the walk of shame.
Also go with tighter clutch springs and ditch that pod filter. OEM airbox is best.
Good avice I will apply it and I dont have the OEM airbox - previous owner removed it.
Ahh okay - too me a second to imagine what you said.
like @le slm said, if you use a heavier/stiffer clutch springs in the back ( the 3 little ones, not contra) it will allow more RPM before engaging and will get you to the powerband sooner. then you can mess with the varaitor weights to keep it in whatever RPM band matches your exhaust (I think you mentioned that in another one of your videos) love your videos by the way, keep it up!!
Did you change your clutch springs? Some are like 28mm and some are 32mm if you put longer ones in and supported to have shorter ones it does that little stall
The zuma cvt has been the most difficult for me to get right. I’ve don’t many different mineralli engines but zuma has been a pain
Hi, I just installed ncy cvt kit and your video helped a lot. I don’t exactly know which ramp to put it in on the pulley because there’s three settings. I just put it in the wide one for now. It came with a yellow clutch spring and 7 gram pulleys. It’s stock right now. Originally it went nearly to 40 now I’m barely hitting 35. Any advice on what I can to do to set it up better?
Message me on IG of FB small Engine Velocity
I would say you aren't getting enough power. Your contra could be engaging to quickly before the trade off on the cvt. This is a fine tuning process that takes a lot of tries. I'm on try 15 with a combo of different contra, clutch springs and variator weights.
hi i know this is taken a year ago but i just have questions does the transmission share oil for the engine crankshaft? i only see drain plug for the transmission any help thanks..
yes
yes
wait no I read that wrong
The oil is in the transmission only, the engine is 2 stroke, is it not? Then the oil is in the gas mix. (4 stroke has oil in the crankshaft)
I think your belt is not sitting as low as it could in the front on the variator, thats why it has bog at the start I suspect, also a yellow spring in the rear pulley would likely help
Clutch side ? I should take it out and j inspect it
@@SmallEngineVelocity yeah someone else mentioned that the red is a very stiff spring so the bike will want to rev real hard to compress it. it might be causing low end bog and slow take off? I think your belt is sitting high in the variator maybe. do you have any shims in between the boss and fixed half by the nut side ( closest to the kick start side)?
you want your belt to sit as close to bottom as possible on the front and high in the rear pulley (lowest gear for take off). could be the belt slipping also. many little things to take in account.
the way I check my belt if its sitting low in the front var is that i take the fixed half and place it on the crank. if I can wiggle the belt and it bottoms out and sits on the drive boss that means that the belt wont be sitting low as it could be When you tighten down the nut.
I then put a shim in it that will push the fixed have a little bit closer to the cvt cover. it helps the belt sit lower. be careful though, to much you get bog off the line as it will take a second or so for the engine to rev up and grab the belt as well. Lots of back and forth. I got the stage six shim set it has a ton of variety in thicknesses to experiment with.
This is probably the single most informative comment in the history of this channel. I have a yellow spring in the box of parts he gave me (previous owner) but it’s a pain to change the spring out. I think there may be some shims in there and I will take a look.
@@SmallEngineVelocity make your life real easy and buy a few different impact sockets to meet your needs and use your impact for removing the nut of the clutch and pulley. I picked up a 36mm socket I think it was the size of the nut on there. that has 1/2" female end with a 3/8" male chuck for the impact and it comes of real easy. just put both feet on either side or just hold one it with one had and pop it off. I normally just kneel down with right foot on one side and left hand on the other side of the clutch and brap that nut off. swap spring=profit hah! I think your tuning and setup are pretty close to bang on anyhow just little tweeks now I bet.
Perfect timing, I’m going to need to go through this after a bbk install. So thanks!
Holy $h*/ the Allen keys on your cvt cover...what’s the size tool you are using? Auto correct is on fire tonight
Did you figure it out?
What's the stock rollers weight?
7g rollers :)
what main jet did you use and pilot
Hey !!
I just buy a 2004 zuma 50cc
It will not pass 40 mph.
Yours have in this video 70cc or 50cc top end?
At the end it was a 70cc but I could get it to 50 at 50cc
@@SmallEngineVelocity
Nice!!
I am planning on upgraded mine to 70cc, already have a racing pipe and play with carb and rollers!!
Thank
It’s surprisingly easier then I thought. No cam or timing chain to drag with , no TDC or anything. Just do well on your torque specs and use cooper spray in your base gasket to not loose or leak compression
@@SmallEngineVelocity
I will thanks bro!!
Good tips
Good morning
You have any idea where i can buy the bigger jets for my 04 zuma 50cc
I only found the main not the pilot
I take it apart and have a 35 in pilot and 80 at main
That's the NCY Transmission kit? I run one of them also, made a huge difference with the NCY Pipe. Green clutch with Red Springs and the 1500 rpm contra.
Still holding up? Post a vid
why mix the weights ?
Hi,What is the size of socket needs to remove cvt?
it was a 17mm I think, one its 17mm and the other is 14mm or they are both 17mm. I dont remember
@@SmallEngineVelocity another question,Are you Filipino?
What size are the Allen bolts on your cat cover?
6mm I think. I just need to break down and buy a socket set of Allen’s
Gotcha...be on the look out for a package
well i've searched and searched and im hoping someone might be able to help on good ol youtube. my scooter will not run properly with all 6 weights. my mechanic installed only 3 of 6 and it seems to run pretty good now. could not make it up a hill with all 6. any ideas scooter people???
Don't be wearing down on my rollers 😁
I sorted the flat spot ones and then weighted them / separated
Too bad you couldn't work on my Yamaha Zumba
#webelearning
#scooterlife
Red is 1000rpm
Can't afford new rollers ?
Being cheap! I’ll get some for sure
Try stiffer clutch springs.👍🏽nice video
Also the red spring is the stiffest contra spring u can use on std rear-drive. Red springs are mostly used on high reving engines .i would try a yellow spring to see if it helps .