Ep. 17 Lower Control Arms, Bushings and Cam Bolts Replacement - Toyota Tundra/Sequoia
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ธ.ค. 2024
- Featured install items:
1. 2004-2006 Tundra/2004-2007 Sequoia Lower Control Arms with Bushings: amzn.to/2LweJQY
2. 2000-2003 Tundra/2001-2003 Sequoia Lower Control Arms with Bushings: amzn.to/2PR72KA
3. Eccentric Cam Plates, bolts and sleeves: www.1stgenoffr...
Tools:
1. Diablo Carbide Teeth 12" saw blades - 3 pack: amzn.to/2ZPZXcQ
2. Milwaukee 15.0 Amp Super Sawzall Reciprocating Saw: amzn.to/2N4eDDF
3. Makita Brushless Cordless High Torque Square Drive Impact Wrench, 18V/1/2": amzn.to/2LtddiB
4. Makita 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 4-1/2"/5" Cut-Off/Angle Grinder: amzn.to/2ZCSx0P
TH-cam Build Series Sequoia Lift:
www.1stgenoffr...
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and make a purchase, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
Limitation of Liability & Disclaimer
Under no circumstances shall “Josh” of “1stgenoffroad.com” be liable for any losses or damages whatsoever, whether in contract, tort or otherwise, from the use of, or reliance on, the information, or from the use of the internet generally. For purposes of this section, Josh and 1stgenoffroad.com or those associated, its divisions, subsidiaries, successors, parent companies, and their employees, partners, principals, agents and representatives, and any third-party providers or sources of information or data will not be held liable for any wrong doing the user does to his or her own property guided by these instructions which are meant to be a guide or a “how to” on fixing your own vehicle.
Josh and/or 1stgenoffroad.commakes no warranty, representation or guarantee as to the content, sequence, accuracy, timeliness or completeness of the information or that the information may be relied upon for any reason. Josh and/or 1stgenoffroad.com makes no warranty, representation or guaranty that the information will be uninterrupted or error free or that any defects can be corrected.
1. 2004-2006 Tundra/2004-2007 Sequoia Lower Control Arms with Bushings: amzn.to/2YFhV2O
2. 2000-2003 Tundra/2001-2003 Sequoia Lower Control Arms with Bushings: amzn.to/35fVWC3
3. Eccentric Cam Plates x 4: amzn.to/2PB0zQO
4. Short Cam Bolt x 2: amzn.to/34gda0S
5. Long Cam Bolt x 2: Genuine Toyota 90080-11275
6. Short Cam Sleeve x 2: amzn.to/2YEdRA0
7. Long Cam Sleeve x 2: Genuine Toyota 48409-34030
Tools:
1. Diablo Carbide Teeth 12" saw blades - 3 pack: amzn.to/2YDqyLk
2. Milwaukee 15.0 Amp Super Sawzall Reciprocating Saw: amzn.to/2rCtbkB
3. Makita Brushless Cordless High Torque Square Drive Impact Wrench, 18V/1/2": amzn.to/2PxE7YI
4. Makita 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 4-1/2"/5" Cut-Off/Angle Grinder: amzn.to/2Ped8m8
TH-cam Build Series Sequoia Lift:
th-cam.com/users/redirect?v=TGOt96PgYRE&event=video_description&redir_token=UZqoI3A1siExq4z5boXr-ZhT2_58MTU3NjIxMTI5NEAxNTc2MTI0ODk0&q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.1stgenoffroad.com%2Fstore%2Fp279%2F1stGenOffRoad.comTH-camSeriesSequoiaSuspensionBuildKit.html%23%2F
@1stgenoffroad Anyone have the P/N for the short cam bolts? Amazon link in the description is broken. Thanks in advance, and thanks for the video @1stgenoffroad
How well have those lower control arms held up in the last 2 years?
@@bamaboy8892 @1stgenoffroad Yeah I'd love to know too
Great video, it's not all polished up. Real life effort.
Watching again as the 'Alignment Shop' once again screwed the pooch. I am needing to return camber and castor like I set it originally upon replacing entire Suspension. Fortunately the eccentics/Cam Bolts are all fresh so it won't require another cutting off!
You're the one who best prepared me for this job and gave me the confidence to do it all, and do it RIGHT.
Eternal Thanks Josh.
Hope I've made you proud as another Grad of Driveway School Shop!
Peace
How'd the alignment shop screw the pooch? How are you going to do a better alignment in your driveway?
@@TheBoogerbat
I did the entire rebuild, measured and had perfect tracking and next to no tire wear.
I know there must be an honest and skilled shop in South Florida bit sure AF haven't found anything but Scam Nightmare lying bastard fvcks before or since.
If you ever 100% rebuild it yourself it becomes quite easy to understand how.
Once I demangle this last Ahole's abortion I have a lead on an honest shop about 2 hours from Here that will give me an honest 'before' reading which I shall gladly share!
If he can orust tweak it that is fine.
BTW, both these Sheethole Shops had newer Hunter racks.
It is a disgusting embarrassment the level of trash here.
If a bale of money lands in my yard I intend on installing SPC UCAs.
This same new tecimmended specializes in 4WD/SUV.
I will gladly trust him to set me to Best Spec!
bro ive watched this video a couple different times doing front end work. truck work is frustrating and the pink floyd is calming.
Thanks bud. I agree, Pink Floyd makes everything better.
Thanks for the great content, the 1st gen community definitely appreciates it
Ditto!
Thanks for the walkthrough, Josh!
Finished the job last night. Used all OEM. Was able to bang out a few of the sleeves w/ a socket. Had to cut one. The 12” Diablo was key. Cut it down and knocked it out quick. Btw, no need to remove the steering boots. With the rack loose, it’s not hard to get the bolts out/in.
PS - Had to play some Floyd during install. 🤘
Strong work. Pink Floyd makes everything better!
The music you include in your videos is such an under-appreciated quality. Thank you for not putting annoying techno music to fill time
Thanks Josh and 1stGen! I completed this job with OEM LCAs yesterday within 5 working hours in my driveway. Very informative and planned out. Wouldn't tackle this job myself unless this video was here! The Diablo blades are the way to go. Hands down.
Glad the video was helpful. Hopefully you're good for another 200,000 and saved yourself a bunch of money by doing it yourself.
This is the kind of instructions Video I'm searching all the time, and they are rare to find. This is one of them. Really, really like the way you work and how the work is done. You are taking the extra steps and care to put anti-seize on these sleeves, this is exactly what I would have done. All the steps well made. Well done. I don't know if your a mechanic or a DIY like me, but you sure go beyond most mechanics or shops would do. Thank you for your time and efforts to make this video, this is well appreciated! New Subscriber here, and I saved your Video to my private playlist as a reference.
Thank you for the very kind words. Hope it can be helpful!
Many thanks for making and sharing this video, it was gold for tackling this task. I own a 1st generation Tundra with 217k miles. My project started when I had to replace the rack and pinion due to corrosion, it had two major leaks. After reviewing what I needed it, and inspection of the suspension, it was determined that the good old Tundra needed many suspension parts, new tires were wearing out unevenly. Your video is very detailed and brings lots of confidence. I have done some work and over the years I have been able to build up the inventory of tools. I would like to add some information to your viewers/fans. I wanted the hole experience and proceeded to buy the bushings rather than buy the upper and lower arms. I felt I wanted to have fun removing and pressing in the bushes. After dealing for 3 hours with the first bushing using the proper tools, I threw the towel and decided to return the bushings and order the upper and lower arms. Simply is not worth it! The difference in the price merits to avoid the major headaches.
Again, thank you for your efforts and sharing your knowledge.
I just did this operation. Did not have to take apart the rack and pinion. Just the 4 14mm bolts to remove the sway bar and could slid the rack back enough 2 get the control arm bolts out
Your video helped me rebuild my 06 Tundra front end two years ago. Just wanted to say thank you.
Nice, brother! 👊
BRO thank you so much for posting this video I don't think I would have done this project on my 02 Tundra if you hadn't made this! The only things i would add is i didn't need to take off the rubber boots on the steering assembly to removed the bolts and all it took was 1 9 inch diablo blade for me to cut all 4 areas. Again Thank you so much!!!
Did you use the stock bolts for your control arms ?
Ball joint puller kit came in handy on this. I had to use it to get the end links out. Realllyyyy gotta be careful on those 4 ball joint bolts too. The threads on the end of one are left out in the open and rust. Yes I broke one. The rack bolts required the jack pushing up on the breaker bar. Man this is a fun job. Good video man thanks alot.
Thanks for making this video, it was a huge help in replacing these parts. As an alternative to using a sawzall to cut out the seized sleeve I used a Milwaukee oscillating tool with the appropriate metal cutting attachment. Worked great.
Josh bringing the knowledge to the 1st gen crowd once again. Thanks for all this stuff man.
This happens to be the most useful video out here, dealing with the Cam Bolts and stuff. Love it🙌
Thanks brother! 👊
I have a 2002 Tacoma, but everything you've just done, looks like what I have to do. My main concern was if the lower control arms came with bushings already installed, and I'm happy to see they do. Thanks for the video!
I just did that job on my 06 Sequoia. Didn't think to strap my control arms. Please do a video on changing out rear suspension bushings. I've searched TH-cam and can't find any.
Thanks, just what I was looking for. Very detailed I appreciate the torque specs. Just hit 200 k on 2000 Tundra. Changing upper and lower arms plus cutting out rear diff cover to weld a new one in. These trucks just don’t die, best Toy engine made.
I agree. IMHO, the 4.7 has taken the place of the 22re. Same great reliability in a V8.
I should have ordered the sleeves to begin with, My truck has almost no rust but those babies are stuck... Good tips, thanks for putting part numbers in the notes.
Seems to me that marking the cam sleeve locations would be a piece of cake by simply using a tool steel center punch (the drill bit type) with a good point on it and drive it in the two "slots" that you used the magic marker on. Regardless of whether you're using new LCA's or your old ones, the dimples from the center punch would be in the same place on the frame. That also applies if you were using either the old cam sleeves or brand new ones since the slots would be in the same place, old or new. Not everyone has a set of the letter punch bits, but the locations could be stamped on them as well and also on new ones so the markings wouldn't need to be done for the next mechanic that tackles this job. Anti Seize is HIGHLY UNDERRATED for this procedure!!! I am about to try and crack my bolts loose after I get the steering unit loose. My Tundra came from Middle Missouri, but it's spent 4 winters of partial winter driving in NE Iowa, so we will see how hard they come out. I ordered new hardware simply to save time. The Upper bolts came out with little to no problem and had maybe 5% of the shaft with any rust on it. It's out of the heavy "salt spray path" unlike the lowers, but your advise on Diablo blades is another positive for your video. Overall, I learned a lot and thanks for taking the time to do this. I like "under the vehicle videos" done at home where the repair person isn't using hydraulic lifts and tons of pneumatic air tools to do the repair INSIDE a shop where the wind sun, grass, concrete rash, and gravel aren't part of the repair. Being over 70 years old, I could only wish I could stand up for the complete job....lol. Thanks again....and yes, I subscribed.
Hey there, yes, that's the schtick of this channel, what you can do in your driveway with pretty basic tools. Thanks for the comment and thanks for subscribing. See you on the road! Via con Dios, amigo!
I completely agree about the blades that you used. I have done the same work numerous times. A Milwaukee M18 Hand Sawzall works great too.
I would like to politely point out that the torque specs for the passenger side (u-bracket) bolt and nut are incorrect.
Both the upper bolt and lower nut should be torqued to 123 ft lbs. The lower stud that the bracket slides over and that nut attaches to is specified to torque to 15 ft lbs, but I doubt many of us are removing that one.
Best comment section on TH-cam!
Great Video, and great editing. Love the song choice
Appreciate the kind words!
Why did you take the Coilover out? Couldn’t you just have unbolted the lower bolt ? Then when installing the lca, you could bolted it back up and raised it with a jack
Just like to have it out of the way.
Super helpful. Going to try this myself once the snow melts.
Hey brother it's good to see another guy working on his 1st gen in the driveway without a lift or shop. Love your site/store, have bought springs from you and will again I'm sure.
I tried to cut/drill my old bushings out and it was a mess. Then couldn't generate enough force to seat the new ones, so I also ended up buying new control arms with the bushings in.
I think if you lift the steering rack up and inch or two you can clear those rear cam bolts without having to take off the inner tie rod boots.
Also I think you can leave your coil overs attached at the top and let them hang.
I also found the diablo carbide blades worked well. That's a great idea to get the longer ones.
Did this solve your vibration/noise problem?
I got some cam bolts from SPC, they have a polymer sleeve that is supposed to not seize up. Will see how they hold up over time
Excellent as always Josh. Thanks for sharing
Just found your channel to replace mine and it turns out you responded to my post in the TSOR Facebook group. Good stuff man appreciate the content
Yeah man! Small world, one big happy family. 😀
Great video …loving the Floyd too !
Thanks bud!
I was shocked we have the same tools down to the Diablo blade and you showed me exactly what I needed on the first video.
I also saw Roger Waters at the Boston Garden about 6 years ago great job with the video.Teacher leave those kids alone.
My tie rod nut was not a 19mm, 2002 SR5, It has a larger one the highest I had was a 21 and still didn't fit. Put it back together for another day and tool borrowing haha.
Great content for us 1stgen guys. Cheers 🍻
My 07 Sequoia starts vibrating around 60 mph. New front tires, new drive shaft definitely helped, but still vibrating. I can feel in the floor board and rear view mirror becomes blurry from the vibration.
Love the music you put in your videos!
Instant like for the pink floyd
Great video btw I'm gonna probably need to do this soon on my 2004
I was thinking maybe I should replace the whole control arm instead of just the bushings (just watched a replacing bushings vid), but it seems like this is even more work. What do you recommend? I got a 2016 veloster n turbo
Great video! Thank you for this. Any update on the control arms? Wondering if TRQ is quality or if that matters for a part like this. So many brands have terrible reviews from quality degradation in the last few years.
thanks Josh. Excellent video. Could you consider your next video to be the brake upgrade to either the GX460 or 470 along with your opinion on which one is the better option? I've read that the 470 is larger diameter rotor but 460 is thicker rotor...what is your take on the topic?
Coming soon!
5 yrs later do you recommend the TRQ lower control arms?
What's the real-world feedback on running the TRQ control arm? Regular daily driving or any off-roading?
Thank you for information I was about to remove all those screws knew nothing about cams and alignments, got scared didn’t do the job. 😢
Sucks that you have to loosen the rack on that to get to the eccentrics... I'm guessing/hoping the 4th gen 4Runners and GX470s aren't like that?
This job is up and coming on my truck... it's much much more rust free thankfully, but I'm preparing for the worst with having to cut out those sleeves. Great video!!
Awesome video very informative. Question tire shop told me I need to replace my lower control arms because the adjustment bolts are ceased. Why couldn’t I just cut the off like you did and replace them?? Seems smarter and cheaper to me.
Cutting them off is what I would do.
Great video but I wish you scrubbed all that rust washed it up down there and did a metal coating to go with all the expense and time you put in otherwise very good video just made me confused why u didn’t go the extra mlle but I’m definitely not judging rack bushings to ? Thank you for the video so good to do it yourself you saved a ton and you know it’s done right!
Just wondering why didn’t you just use the cut off wheel to cut through the sleeves??
2004 tundra 2Wd here.
I have moog LCA’s ready to go. Truck was a California truck up until the last 4 years in Arizona. With zero rust, should I still expect to have to cut the arms out? Should I still order new cam bolts and eccentrics?
Thanks
I would expect to not have to cut anything. And I would feel good about reusing the cam bolts/nuts/sleeves.
How long did that project take you, so I can plan mine for the next long weekend? Excellent instructions, watching you video, made me lose the fear of ding it by myself, so I can save $300 on a helper for the day of work.
Thanks! If you don't film it, you can do it in one day.
Also, if you pause the video at @12:03 there's a very good likeness to Michael Gross from his "Family Ties" days in the lower-right corner of the video.
Great Video, I suggest that you leave the Cam bolts loose and tighten them when the wheels are on the ground...This will prevent premature BJ failure.
I’m sure he got an alignment right after this so it doesn’t really matter, but yes
Great video man thank you!
Thanks bud!
How are the aftermarket lower control arms holding up thus far ? I’m on the fence of buying oem, just replacing the bushings or just doing the complete set but aftermarket brand for ex moog ? What’s your suggestion ? Thank you in advance!
No issues so far.
Excellent job bro I got the TRQ lower arms and got the coil packs all 8 TRQ really good upgrade I getting about 18.5 per mile , really good video keep it up 👍
@1stgenoffroad: How well are you getting on with these cheaper TRQ lower control arms? Cheers
3 years later. So far, so good.
@@1stgenoffroad wow. All I ever hear is "only use OEM, everything else is junk". And the bushings are all fine as well?
@@c90adventures I fully anticipated pressing these bushings out and pressing new ones in after the first year. But to my surprise, everything is still smooth sailing.
How have those aftermarket bushing held up over the years?
This is the response I got from Josh a couple weeks ago via email. "I’m starting to hear a little squeaking. I haven’t had a chance to investigate, but I’m thinking it’s the LCA bushings. It’s been 2-3 years. If the bushings are the culprit, my plan is to press the bushings out and press in Toyota OE bushings. "
@@bjames1794 I ended up going oem, thanks tho
@@mattadams0690 Same here for the LCAs! I found some non-rusty cam bolts in the junk yard for $10 too!
@@bjames1794 I live in Arizona, mine slid right out 🤣
Cool video. Thanks. Looked like a daunting task before but you made it look easy.
It's not too bad, especially if you don't have to cut them out.
Which LCA I should buy for my sequoia pls
Nice music choice btw.
👃
Are the control arm bolts and the bushings for the front and back on the lower control arm different sizes?
Yes.
Awesome man. I'm really intimidated by this but I think im going to tackle it and then get it aligned at a shop. I have an 06 Tundra that spent most it's life in Canada my bushings are pretty much gone and it's super noisy. Questions for you. Do you think I need to replace my uppers while I'm at it? Should I just replace my tie rods and balls joints? All I can visually see is my control arm bushings shot.
Yes upper ones too or just buy new UCA'S...
How are the control arms holding up? I am thinking of buying some for my worn 07 4runner.
Still good 4 years later.
Great content great music choice
Thanks!
Im getting ready to do this job. Is it a must to get new Cam bolts or can I reuse the same OEM bolts that I have?
If yours are in good shape and not seized and you don't have to cut them out, you can reuse them.
Can the alignment shop align my camber bolts ? Because My wheel is a bit inner into the body
I fed up real good. I ordered 2 of the front sleeves instead of a front and a rear. Absolutely ate the threads of the bolt. Guess I'm sitting til the bolt arrives lol
I'm looking to do my LCAs and LBJs. I can't afford the UCAs and new shocks right. Is it bad for the lower ball joint to be taken apart multiple times or would that be okay if I did everything in stages? Thanks for your content. I appreciate the work you put into these vids.
You can take the 4 bottom bolts out multiple times.
@@1stgenoffroad just remember to use high strength orange REMOVEABLE LOCTITE on them and re-torque them to 59ftlbs each when re installing them.
Hey how long did it take to cut each bolt? The aft bolt is not coming out. I have been cutting and gone through 2 5.0 XC M18 batteries with a m18 fuel Hackzall. Using the same Milwaukee blades that you used. Seems like I’m not getting anywhere. Is Sawzall the only answer ?
That's why I say you want a Sawzall. They are better at cutting through thicker material. And you want one that plugs in. You'll be on the trigger for a long time.
@@1stgenoffroad thank you . I was able to get them off finally with a sawzall. UCA bolts were the same story
@@warrendennis84 You had to cut the upper control arm bolts too? Dang dude!
Silver sharpie's come in handy
looks like im a couple of years late to the show! this video was REMARKABLY helpful, but, being cheap, do you think i can get away with just the sleeves? the bolts move fine as i just aligned it a month ago myself and all four adjusted no issue, but im about to do the TRQ LCA's and O.E. LBJ's and was wondering if i could swing just the sleeves and keep using the bolts...
Yeah, if the bolts and cam eccentrics are still good, reuse them.
How was the TRQ LCA? Good 👍 ?? I’m about TK purchase one
Nice work man. Great video.
Got this done. Great vid Josh.
Great video! Well done man.
Thanks man!
What brand Lower control arm did you purchase? I don't think you mention it, other than it wasn't OEM.
Guess I should've mentioned that, lol. I think they came from A1Auto
@@1stgenoffroad Thank you.
How much did you left it up on your sequoia??? I would love to do this on my sequoia! Please 🙏 thank you
It's a 2" lift. Here's the link to the suspension: www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p1027/1stGenOffRoad.comTH-camSeriesSequoiaSuspensionBuildKit.html
So my ‘06 Sequoia is RWD. Do you think I will need to loosen the steering rack too? I was kind of hoping not to...
Afraid so, bud.
1stgenoffroad not the answer I wanted to hear 😆😩
1stgenoffroad Hey I did it! Was worried it might’ve been a bit much but it really wasn’t all that bad (I’m in Alabama so don’t have the rust issues you did). Got it aligned and now it drives quietly like a charm again. Thanks for the video!
Awesome. Yeah, not too bad, especially if you don’t have to cut.
Did you remove the rack entirely from the bolts it's on while leaving the lines in tact on the upper part? Or did you remove the rack from the steering wheel
I removed the nuts and bolts, but kept the hoses connected. This allowed me to move the rack out of the way enough to get the lower control arm bolts in and out. Skip to min 16:30.
@@1stgenoffroad thanks...yeah I got it. The last guy who owned my truck crashed it and I think there was some slight bend or damage to the frame where the bolt attached because I was about a half inch tight. I had to pry bar the other arm out so I could angle the arm to get the clearing space for the bolt, even with the rack moved back as far as I could pry it before the sway bar got in my way. Pain in the butt. But finally done. Thanks a bunch for your video this helped me loads
@@kesslerwatson4085 Wow! Strong work!
Thank you great video 👌
excellent video
I am thinking about doing this on my 2006. Any thoughts on why you didn't replace ball joints when doing the arms?
I've already replaced them. But yes, if you don't know the history, or if they have't been replaced in a while, now would be a great time to replace them.
Josh is amazing love you bro
Man that’s a lot of work 😅
Not really...
What kind of nerf bars/ rock sliders are those?
These are rock sliders from Billy at BruteForceFab.com
Hola buen video donde compró el gato hidráulico gracias
gracias. Lo tengo aquí: www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p277/ProEagle3TonBigWheelOffRoadJack.html
Thanks for the great video
Awesome video. Do you know the longevity of this lower ontrol arm
So far, so good.
@@1stgenoffroad awesome thanks for the reply back.
Thanks for the Floyd!
The hardest part was picking the Pink Floyd song. So many good ones.
Thanks for all that good videos, how is working that LCA and the ball joints 2 years later??? Good quality?
I was a little uncertain about how the bushings would hold up, but so far so good.
@@1stgenoffroad thanks for your answer, I wants to update my 2002 sequoia with one of your lifting kits but I wants a cheapest UCAS
@@jonathanjaviergutierrez4033 You want the Freedom Off Road UCAs..
@@1stgenoffroad that is correct I save like $400 right?
Your not running sway bar links on yours ?
And if your not does the sway bar hit anything down there ?
No sway bar links. The sway bar was kinda frozen. I've since completely removed it.
Thanks so much for this video. I'm about to do this on my 06 Sequoia. The link for the short cam bolt links to a windshield washer bolt on Amazon. The long cam bolt (90080-11275) shows as a windshield washer bolt on the Toyota site as well. Can you confirm that these are the correct bolts for this?
Wondering the same
Did u redo your ball joint position to G? Looks like the rounded part of the ball joint base is pointing to the front. In your episode where u installed them, u recommended A. With A I’m getting new tire rubbing on the rear of the tire.
I think I ended up on “A” to get max caster.
1stgenoffroad if I’m not mistaken, @ 4:17 u can see the orientation has changed and is in G position according to the instructions that were included with the SPC UCAs u sent me. Sorry to bug but I’m just trying to get it as close to yours as possible
Imitation is the greatest form of flattery 😁
I’ll take a look this afternoon and see if I can verify.
Can I just change out the bushings and keep my stock lower control arms?
Yeah. If there’s no rust and you don’t have to cut them off. www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p267/TundraDaystarLowerControlArmBushings.html
The bushings are a ruthless job. I wouldn't do it again.
I will look into them. Thanks.
I just pushed the old ones out and press a new ones back in. All were good now. It was not that hard of a job. The alignment was off so I just did the visual alignment then took it in to the pro.
They replace the bj on my truck upper and lowers ,after they did the work my truck start hesitated on take off also turn my traction control light on
Im doing thid on my second gen it looks pretty much like the same setup
That was a great video, thank you so much for hard work. I would love to talk with you about my tundra, I'm getting a thumping noise from my front end my truck is a 2005 and it only has 65,000 miles on it it's never been in mud
I have a 2003 sequoia with 175k miles and was wondering if you suggest me replacing my coils also I’m replacing all the shocks with Bilsteins
At 175K, you got your money out of those coils. I would replace the coils with the shocks. Lots of options here: www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/c17/2001-2007ToyotaSequoiaSuspension#/
Agreed. Replace at least coils and shocks. I did on my Sequoia and I don't regret it. Made a huge difference in ride quality and handling. I went with bilstein shocks and dobinsons coils from 1stgenoffroad.
I have original bilsteins on it rusted as hell and they are still good actually these things are worth their money
Hi I have a question
Do I really need the centric to be new or can i use the old ones I am about to replace a bunch of parts back to OEM specifications
And I have the lower control arms bushings not the arms like you did anyway if the centric look ok I can use those right ??
Right.
my damn cam bolts got seized and one came out with the threads stripped smh. when a 3 hour job becomes a 3 day job. gotta order the bolts from the dealer because they can get here quicker than amazon surprisingly. oh and my Stabilizer Bar End Link needs to be replaced now too. thanks for the video. im gonna buy those diablo blades and get to work
So good. So much good content. Thanks a ton!!
I replaced the lower control arms and now have traction control kicking on from 0-20mph . Any suggestions on trouble shooting?
did you get an alignment and zero point calibration?
@@spacecruisers I did an alignment post but no zero point calibration perhaps that’s the issue .
Will try that. Thanks
@@spacecruisers what is a zero point calibration?
Pink Floyd!!!!!