For those of you thinking of doing this job, as a general rule for most of these older Honda Civics you only use the Hondabond (or gray RTV sealant) at the 4 corner spots where the oil pan follows contours of the crank (although there are some 1996-2000 engine variations where Honda recommends applying it all the way around the pan). Just remember, if you do put sealant all the way around, it will not be any fun getting it off the next time. Install pan within 5 minutes of applying Hondabond. Bolts and nuts on pan should be torqued to 9 ft lbs. As a general rule, tighten the fasteners in a criss cross pattern (going back and forth across pan) starting from center of pan and work your way out to the edges. Finger tight first, then go around and gently snug them up in sequence, then do final torque sequence. The last four bolts torqued will be near the Hondabond you applied. Honda recommends replacing the exhaust manifold gasket whenever you remove it (no need for any sealant on it). Wait at least 30 minutes from the time you applied Hondabond before you fill vehicle with oil. Hope this helps someone.
ive been working on hondas for 10+ years. if you only apply hondabond or rtv to the 4 corners like the manuals state, its going to leak oil lol. i apply rtv as this gentleman did in this video
Outstanding video. Great step by step instructions. Gong to do this on my 99 Acura Integra .Thanks for the good camera angles and describing all supplies needed.
I enjoyed your video and narration is clear instruction. You are know what you are doing. I saw some other videos that they are not show the details like your. Million thanks..! Good job.
thx for all the advice. I'm following it step by step with the video. I'm trying to get my daughter's first car all fixed and ready to go. you're saving me a lot of money. them spring bolts for the exhaust are really hard, but I finally got it. thx again man
I know to put the rtv on the u's but i didnt have the spay sealant on hand and chose to double it up...guarintee it wont leak a drop. I've been building pleanty of engines and I'm real picky about leaking oil.I don't like the honda rubber gaskets at all, that's why I double the sealant on both sides, I never have to go back and do it a second time.
thanks for this vid! it really is a big help when i worked on my ek yesterday! its my first time to do this which took me 5hrs to change a new oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket..i also found out that one bracket holding the transmission to the engine block is missing.. im just not sure if its the same for manual and automatic but its definitely similar to the brackets you removed.. one other note though, is that i didnt have to completely remove the exhaust pipe b rather just unbolt it from the exhaust manifold (and the bracket) so that i can lower it a bit just enough to pull down the oil pan. I made sure to put some block or something for the exhaust pipe to lean on so that the rubber in the middle wont brake off from hanging freely. this save me some time i guess.. Great information and thanks!!!
For the O2 sensor, you want to use copper anti-seize, not aluminum anti-seize. I agree with placing RTV all around the gasket, just make sure you have a scraper or a 3m bristle disc on hand. How long did you wait, before turning on the engine?
not all exhaust manifolds are the same throughout eg/ek single cams. I had a 97 d16 and the exhaust manifold had a cat conv. on the headers. I guess it varies with trim levels possibly? or OBD?
good stuff, is the seal really necessary on the exhaust gasket? and should i check anything else if i have a major leak while changing the oil pan gasket? or should i just wait and see if that will stop the leak?
What happens when you remove the 4 12mm bolts? Do these fasten the dust cover which has to be removed in order to get to the 10mm bolts in the corners of the pan?
honda spec request do not put any kind of silicon on the brand new gasket only on the 4 corner of the crackshaft spot , also toque the nuts at 10 ft lbs, I recommend buy the oem gasket because fits perfectly
Very good video! I see and hear you mention to "snug" the bolts on the oil pan. I would assume there's a specific torque on these....and a tightening sequence.
The first oil pan, the actual gasket caked-on so hard that it was nearly impossible to break off, even hit it with a hammer and a flat head screwdriver, barely could chisel off the rubber. Literally crystallized to the pan. I had this new extra pan on hand and sold it to him.
That flywheel cover plate is supposed to be under two of the corner bolt heads. Notice the two tabs on the flared ends. It's like a puzzle or a lottery win to get that plate either out or in without a lengthy series of contortions. Someone who had this apart previously must have seen what a pain in the ass doing that is, as it prevents you from torquing the 18 fasteners in the factory-specified sequence. Will most people nerd-out about torque values and the tightening sequence that engineers determined? Nope. However, I'm assuming that because I torqued the two fasteners first at the corners of the crankshaft semicircle -- hidden by this plate and intended to be torque last or nearly so -- I've got *_one_* stud-and-nut fastener on the firewall side of the crank pulley that doesn't tighten down fully. It gets too hard to turn, and the torque is only 9 lb.-ft., and the gasket and pan aren't flush to the block for about an inch of the gasket length. Maybe I need to thread the stud in further. Maybe the tightening sequence messed this up. I'm about to head back to the car to experiment, but this job is deceptively difficult. I've been trying to find a video that might address this specific issue.
Good video. I've got a '92 VX with stripped threads on the oil pan drain plug hole. So the manifold and exhaust have to come off to get at the oil pan?
I have a '93 del sol si 1.6 automatic and I'm stuck on what exhaust components to remove to drop the pan. I already tried to get the pan out without touching the exhaust but it won't clear. Exactly what exhaust parts have to be removed to get this to happen and be able to apply the new oil pan gasket? The entire manifold like you are doing or something else by the catalytic converter?
my gasket was SUPER hard to get off! had to scrap with wire brush and took the paint off but I didn't think it should be that hard. do we need a sealent?
You know, using a gasket sealer on the entire gasket kind of defeats the purpose of a gasket. You only need it in the corners where it transitions from flat to any other angle. That much sealant will make it a pain in the ass for the next person who changes that gasket. Good video though man!
Idk why im so scared. I literally took my del sol apart in and out. Swapped the d series for a b series. I was on my car at least other day but now that i gotta replace the oil pan, its almost like wtf i cant do this can i? Lmao
96-2000 fits basically every part is the same maybe except if it's a four door compared to a door door and v tech to non v tech and automatic trans to manual besides that most parts are the same
I see that he put the oil pan drain plug back in the oil pan after draining the oil finger tight . NEVER put ANY drain plug in finger tight !!! Unless you are going to tighten to proper spec. , don't even put the plug back into the drain orifice . That is a good way to forget to tighten the plug and have it back out on you and burning up the engine , trans. ,diff. etc. due to no oil left in unit .
Excelente video amigo, se entiende muy bien, te doy las gracias por tomarte todo ese tiempo y ayudar a gente como yo, que quiere hacer los trabajos por si mismo. Claro, ahorrar dinero tambien. Gracias amigo.
dude i never subscribe, but imma subscribe cause you give great advice, i just pulled my engine out 98 civic, but i dont feel comftorable changing the pan gasket and then letting the weight of the engine rest on the pan, would you suggest i put the engine back on the car and then change the pan gasket?
It's completely fine to drop the engine down on it's pan, just slowly set it down on the pan and slide a piece of wood where the pan goes higher, slide it up under there and it'll keep the engine level.
Not a bad video but no need for all the Honda bond just 4 corners where the crank and main are do great but to each their own....but after I seen FRAM filters I quit watching lol
Their called "oil pan support brackets" and I couldn't find a part number anywhere..either call Honda and ask them or I personally would go to a local junk yard and take them off a civic like yours.
Just did this job on my 95 civic. Job was allot more frustrating than expected. Mainly because the gasket had to be stock and never changed. Was literally fused to the pan. Didn't have many tools and was lucky to find what i did. Luckily had an air compressor to get a piece off the exhaust off to drop the pan. The only other trouble was putting the dust cover back on but eventually figured it out. Hopefully this has fixed my small oil leak. Saw the 941 on your shirt. I'm in same area lol. Thanks
I always use rtv just to guarantee that I wont have to do the job twice but it's not a must. I would check around where the transmission meets the block, alot of times the rear main seal goes bad and leaks motor oil also.
I'm not sure you'll see this. I couldn't tag you. So it's common to see a leak at the rear seal when doing to oil pan. I have a Honda Accord DX 99. Any issues when doing to pan of disturbing the rear seal or another seal. It sounds like mainly you need to use caution to tighten evenly and not overtighten so as to make the gasket start to come out while doing it, correct?
hi what is that part at 15:44 hanging out on the middle and dropping inside oil pan. I just did a 99 cr v and I saw this part with a hole at the end. on the rounded end it had a hole in the middle. any idea as what is the purpose of that part??? thanks
MrOriuk79 I just replaced my '99 CR-V oil pan gasket with a Perma Dry Fel-Pro gasket. Not supposed to need RTV with this gasket so but it leaks more now than it did with the original gasket. I torqued to 48"lbs from the middle out not sure why it's leaking. Wondering if you had better luck and what type of gasket you used also if you used sealant where the block meets the front and back section of engines (basically the four corners)
Had to do an oil pan and gasket change on my 2002 mitsubishi eclipse and even though they're different cars, this video helped out allot!! Thank you NtheFastlane for posting helpful videos!!
nice video very helpful how ever could of been a little more descriptive. for example how long did you leave that hondabond on there before putting the gasket on and how long was it sitting on the gasket before you put the oil pan back on. i never would of thought that dust guard for the fly wheel off first. i would have broke that shit
Do I have to remove the exhaust to remove the oil pan or it just makes it easier to do it that way. My exhaust bolts are rusted and I don't feel like dealing with that right now
man the braces that you took off from the flywheel cover before u took the actual flywheel cover off....please give me part numbers for both of them. I need both of those braces. thank you.
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Lololololol I work for Frank and TAS.
For those of you thinking of doing this job, as a general rule for most of these older Honda Civics you only use the Hondabond (or gray RTV sealant) at the 4 corner spots where the oil pan follows contours of the crank (although there are some 1996-2000 engine variations where Honda recommends applying it all the way around the pan). Just remember, if you do put sealant all the way around, it will not be any fun getting it off the next time. Install pan within 5 minutes of applying Hondabond.
Bolts and nuts on pan should be torqued to 9 ft lbs.
As a general rule, tighten the fasteners in a criss cross pattern (going back and forth across pan) starting from center of pan and work your way out to the edges. Finger tight first, then go around and gently snug them up in sequence, then do final torque sequence. The last four bolts torqued will be near the Hondabond you applied.
Honda recommends replacing the exhaust manifold gasket whenever you remove it (no need for any sealant on it). Wait at least 30 minutes from the time you applied Hondabond before you fill vehicle with oil. Hope this helps someone.
Does the RTV go on top of the gasket, bottom, or both at the corners?
I was wondering about torque value. Older civics from what I understand are notorious for oil pan gasket leaks. Thanks for the info.
You helped me a lot. Thank you sir!
Big Dog50001 Automotive thanks .
Big Dog50001 Automotive - Thanks a lot brother 👍🏼
Wowww man your civic is in great shape :) rare to see them with no rust
Thank you so much for this video. I just changed my engine oil pan today with ease thanks to your amazing video. 1000 Thank yous.
ive been working on hondas for 10+ years. if you only apply hondabond or rtv to the 4 corners like the manuals state, its going to leak oil lol. i apply rtv as this gentleman did in this video
Outstanding video. Great step by step instructions. Gong to do this on my 99 Acura Integra .Thanks for the good camera angles and describing all supplies needed.
I enjoyed your video and narration is clear instruction. You are know what you are doing. I saw some other videos that they are not show the details like your. Million thanks..! Good job.
thx for all the advice. I'm following it step by step with the video. I'm trying to get my daughter's first car all fixed and ready to go. you're saving me a lot of money. them spring bolts for the exhaust are really hard, but I finally got it. thx again man
I Always use a large breaker bar
I know to put the rtv on the u's but i didnt have the spay sealant on hand and chose to double it up...guarintee it wont leak a drop. I've been building pleanty of engines and I'm real picky about leaking oil.I don't like the honda rubber gaskets at all, that's why I double the sealant on both sides, I never have to go back and do it a second time.
I have appreciated the good quality video, and your explanations. A good old fashion mechanics, without the benefit of lifts or ramps. Well done.
very helpful esp. for guys like me trying to keep those hard-earned pesos from going to car maintenance, whenever possible. Thank you so much.
thanks for this vid!
it really is a big help when i worked on my ek yesterday! its my first time to do this which took me 5hrs to change a new oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket..i also found out that one bracket holding the transmission to the engine block is missing.. im just not sure if its the same for manual and automatic but its definitely similar to the brackets you removed..
one other note though, is that i didnt have to completely remove the exhaust pipe b rather just unbolt it from the exhaust manifold (and the bracket) so that i can lower it a bit just enough to pull down the oil pan. I made sure to put some block or something for the exhaust pipe to lean on so that the rubber in the middle wont brake off from hanging freely. this save me some time i guess..
Great information and thanks!!!
Thanks man, well I hope it goes smoothly for you!
I have to do the exact same procedure for my 95 Civic eg, thanks for the video, gonna help for sure...
For the O2 sensor, you want to use copper anti-seize, not aluminum anti-seize. I agree with placing RTV all around the gasket, just make sure you have a scraper or a 3m bristle disc on hand.
How long did you wait, before turning on the engine?
Awesome details man! Perfect. Carry on. I will need more for DIY. Thanks.
very good video... explained thoroughly and every step shown! thank you so much .. keep making videos!
I like the shoes he is wearing in this video
I tagged the style shoe for you in the tagged products 👊
not all exhaust manifolds are the same throughout eg/ek single cams. I had a 97 d16 and the exhaust manifold had a cat conv. on the headers. I guess it varies with trim levels possibly? or OBD?
Very nice job
Thank you pal 😉
Thanks! Anytime Wailing.
Thanks for this video! I really like the whole presentation of this video.
very good video lots of info unlike the other videos
Thank you! It was a friends.
Definitely!
This is very informative! Thanks
dean dong welcom
Awesome video! I have to do that to my 2000 civic hatch
WhAt is the part that goes into the groove on the drivers side of oil pan? It's white. I think mine is cracked because it is leaking oil..
haha I feel you on that spring for the headers.
:) it can be a literal pain in neck.
Nthefastlane Hate it
good stuff, is the seal really necessary on the exhaust gasket? and should i check anything else if i have a major leak while changing the oil pan gasket? or should i just wait and see if that will stop the leak?
What happens when you remove the 4 12mm bolts? Do these fasten the dust cover which has to be removed in order to get to the 10mm bolts in the corners of the pan?
+T Mst It's been a while, but I believe that is correct.
honda spec request do not put any kind of silicon on the brand new gasket only on the 4 corner of the crackshaft spot
, also toque the nuts at 10 ft lbs, I recommend buy the oem gasket because fits perfectly
Very good video! I see and hear you mention to "snug" the bolts on the oil pan. I would assume there's a specific torque on these....and a tightening sequence.
20 lbs
@@Alfredorubio630 9 ft pounds from inside to outside on sequence.
are you using a magnet so you won't drop the bolts?
Looks like a completely different oil pan. The first one was dented. Curious what was wrong with the first one.
The first oil pan, the actual gasket caked-on so hard that it was nearly impossible to break off, even hit it with a hammer and a flat head screwdriver, barely could chisel off the rubber. Literally crystallized to the pan. I had this new extra pan on hand and sold it to him.
That flywheel cover plate is supposed to be under two of the corner bolt heads. Notice the two tabs on the flared ends. It's like a puzzle or a lottery win to get that plate either out or in without a lengthy series of contortions. Someone who had this apart previously must have seen what a pain in the ass doing that is, as it prevents you from torquing the 18 fasteners in the factory-specified sequence. Will most people nerd-out about torque values and the tightening sequence that engineers determined? Nope. However, I'm assuming that because I torqued the two fasteners first at the corners of the crankshaft semicircle -- hidden by this plate and intended to be torque last or nearly so -- I've got *_one_* stud-and-nut fastener on the firewall side of the crank pulley that doesn't tighten down fully. It gets too hard to turn, and the torque is only 9 lb.-ft., and the gasket and pan aren't flush to the block for about an inch of the gasket length. Maybe I need to thread the stud in further. Maybe the tightening sequence messed this up. I'm about to head back to the car to experiment, but this job is deceptively difficult. I've been trying to find a video that might address this specific issue.
Cool instructions....keep it up.
Good video. I've got a '92 VX with stripped threads on the oil pan drain plug hole. So the manifold and exhaust have to come off to get at the oil pan?
I have a '93 del sol si 1.6 automatic and I'm stuck on what exhaust components to remove to drop the pan. I already tried to get the pan out without touching the exhaust but it won't clear. Exactly what exhaust parts have to be removed to get this to happen and be able to apply the new oil pan gasket? The entire manifold like you are doing or something else by the catalytic converter?
I would never do that job without wearing some kind of eye protection first. Other than that, it looks pretty good.
great video
Can you remove the oil pan without removing the manifold first?
Chris G sure you can but in order to remove the oil pan entirely, you also need to take the header or the 2-1
Downpipe off
nice video! thanks for the post
Nice video very helpful
Great Video.
my gasket was SUPER hard to get off! had to scrap with wire brush and took the paint off but I didn't think it should be that hard. do we need a sealent?
Kayleigh carroll If it's rock hard, it's shot and needs to be replaced.
Nice job on this video.. you know your cars. i know wood that was a 2x3. Ha Ha just busting balls. good vid
Good video!
Good video !!
very helpfull ..very good 👍
been trying to find a 06 Honda civic oil pan removal video can't find diddly
Michael Hulsey pretty much the same thing!
Factory service manuals are your best friend and can be found online, anywhere.
Do you have to take off the exhaust to get to the oil pan?
Yes, you have to remove it.
I don't think you needed to remove the header. I usually remove just the Front pipe from the Catalytic convertor.
You know, using a gasket sealer on the entire gasket kind of defeats the purpose of a gasket. You only need it in the corners where it transitions from flat to any other angle. That much sealant will make it a pain in the ass for the next person who changes that gasket. Good video though man!
Idk why im so scared. I literally took my del sol apart in and out. Swapped the d series for a b series. I was on my car at least other day but now that i gotta replace the oil pan, its almost like wtf i cant do this can i? Lmao
Is it any different if it's a Vtec?
No, it's the exact same procedure.
Everything went well until I had to remove the gasket. It was baked on, what a nightmare 😓
1992-1995 civic header are not the same as 96 and up civic. fyi
T
Haha ;)
pointless for rtv on both sides
there is a torque spec on those bolts/nuts.
96-2000 fits basically every part is the same maybe except if it's a four door compared to a door door and v tech to non v tech and automatic trans to manual besides that most parts are the same
I see that he put the oil pan drain plug back in the oil pan after draining the oil finger tight . NEVER put ANY drain plug in finger tight !!! Unless you are going to tighten to proper spec. , don't even put the plug back into the drain orifice . That is a good way to forget to tighten the plug and have it back out on you and burning up the engine , trans. ,diff. etc. due to no oil left in unit .
Excelente video amigo, se entiende muy bien, te doy las gracias por tomarte todo ese tiempo y ayudar a gente como yo, que quiere hacer los trabajos por si mismo. Claro, ahorrar dinero tambien. Gracias amigo.
dude i never subscribe, but imma subscribe cause you give great advice, i just pulled my engine out 98 civic, but i dont feel comftorable changing the pan gasket and then letting the weight of the engine rest on the pan, would you suggest i put the engine back on the car and then change the pan gasket?
It's completely fine to drop the engine down on it's pan, just slowly set it down on the pan and slide a piece of wood where the pan goes higher, slide it up under there and it'll keep the engine level.
D-series engines are super light.
Not a bad video but no need for all the Honda bond just 4 corners where the crank and main are do great but to each their own....but after I seen FRAM filters I quit watching lol
Was only installing what the customer brought me. I usually run Purolator or a Mobile 1 oil filter.
Their called "oil pan support brackets" and I couldn't find a part number anywhere..either call Honda and ask them or I personally would go to a local junk yard and take them off a civic like yours.
Great video dude i know how to do it was just watching to see it
Just did this job on my 95 civic. Job was allot more frustrating than expected. Mainly because the gasket had to be stock and never changed. Was literally fused to the pan. Didn't have many tools and was lucky to find what i did. Luckily had an air compressor to get a piece off the exhaust off to drop the pan. The only other trouble was putting the dust cover back on but eventually figured it out. Hopefully this has fixed my small oil leak. Saw the 941 on your shirt. I'm in same area lol. Thanks
Thanks! Lol, you know, when I was editing the video I thought the same thing.. I was like wait a minute!..but what was said was said :)
I always use rtv just to guarantee that I wont have to do the job twice but it's not a must. I would check around where the transmission meets the block, alot of times the rear main seal goes bad and leaks motor oil also.
I'm not sure you'll see this. I couldn't tag you. So it's common to see a leak at the rear seal when doing to oil pan. I have a Honda Accord DX 99. Any issues when doing to pan of disturbing the rear seal or another seal. It sounds like mainly you need to use caution to tighten evenly and not overtighten so as to make the gasket start to come out while doing it, correct?
that turbo ek in the back
hi what is that part at 15:44
hanging out on the middle and dropping inside oil pan.
I just did a 99 cr v and I saw this part with a hole at the end. on the rounded end it had a hole in the middle.
any idea as what is the purpose of that part???
thanks
MrOriuk79 I just replaced my '99 CR-V oil pan gasket with a Perma Dry Fel-Pro gasket. Not supposed to need RTV with this gasket so but it leaks more now than it did with the original gasket. I torqued to 48"lbs from the middle out not sure why it's leaking. Wondering if you had better luck and what type of gasket you used also if you used sealant where the block meets the front and back section of engines (basically the four corners)
excellent job, good video, thank you for sharing !
Hey thanks, and your welcome!
I did this then after a loud knocking started in my engine I didn't remove that thing on the transmission tho I placed it back on and off
what kind of air compressor do you have? i really like it, and make the job a little bit easier and more less strength on me
Thanks, glad I could help!
Thanks!
What a cool dude!
i always put exhaust gaskets on dry and never had a problem in the past 17 years ive been working on cars..
Had to do an oil pan and gasket change on my 2002 mitsubishi eclipse and even though they're different cars, this video helped out allot!! Thank you NtheFastlane for posting helpful videos!!
too much RTV it will mix with your oil..lol
nice video very helpful how ever could of been a little more descriptive. for example how long did you leave that hondabond on there before putting the gasket on and how long was it sitting on the gasket before you put the oil pan back on. i never would of thought that dust guard for the fly wheel off first. i would have broke that shit
18:05 is where starts messing up
Do I have to remove the exhaust to remove the oil pan or it just makes it easier to do it that way. My exhaust bolts are rusted and I don't feel like dealing with that right now
man the braces that you took off from the flywheel cover before u took the actual flywheel cover off....please give me part numbers for both of them. I need both of those braces. thank you.
To do the oil pan gasket do you have to remove the manifold and dowpipe? Or can you just remove the downpipe? Nice video
damn good video, this is my first time to replace the oil pan and I was thinking that was kinda easy ... not so much ... so this video helped a lot
Thank you man. I will be doing that today :)
Thank you so much bud! this video teached me how to remove mines, ill do soon! so. it helped me, thnkss!
that turbo civic at 27:34👌🏾 and great video keep up the good work
hey where did your engine stiffeners go? the things that used to be on your flywheel cover?
Lay down a sheet of card board so u dont mess up your drive way with oil stains,
How are you
Love fram filters they have the grip to take them off. Good video.
I love the video bro.
Hi
Good video man! You should've installed some performance headers lol
I would like to have the Nike Shox that your wearing in the video
nice job bro... so many things that i learned in that video.